Year: 2018

The Macdonald Museum – if you are a clock fan, or even if you are not, this small museum may surprise you

Macdonald Museum in Middleton Nova Scotia

I have been to Middleton, Nova Scotia many times. I have even passed the Macdonald Consolidated School where the clock museum is located without realizing what treasures lay inside. The clock museum represents a small section of the museum, the remainder of which is dedicated to the history of the area.

In the Spring of 2018 my wife and I set off on one of our many mini staycations. On my agenda was a visit to this museum and I was not disappointed.

MacDonald Museum main exhibit area
Macdonald Museum main clock exhibit area
Tallcase clock
Holbeck made tall-case clock
It certainly ranks as the best exhibit in Atlantic Canada

Off highway 1 on School Street, Middleton, Nova Scotia stands the Macdonald museum. I had some expectations because I had been to two well respected clock museums, the NAWCC museum in Columbia PA. and the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario. Though not on the same scale as these two, it certainly ranks as the best exhibit in Atlantic Canada.

According to the web site

The Annapolis Valley Macdonald Museum is home to the Nova Scotia Museum’s collection of over 150 antique clocks and watches. This permanent exhibit showcases items collected by the late Norman Phinney and was one of the primary reasons for establishing the Macdonald Museum. Many of the clocks are in working condition. There are a wide variety of clocks and watches on display, with some dating back to the late 17th century. Anyone interested in clocks would do well to see this exhibit – one of the best in Eastern Canada.

The museum is well laid out with enough information on each of the clocks on display to satisfy the general public and clock enthusiasts alike. Each display highlights its significance as an important development in horological history. We were alone as we walked though the main exhibit area and an adjacent room which contained a fascinating old clock-maker’s shop and a well laid out and informative interactive display on how mechanical clocks work.

Clockmaker's shop
Clock-maker’s shop
How mechanical clocks work
How mechanical clocks work

At least one example from the Baird Clock Co. of Montreal and five examples from the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. of Berlin (now Kitchener) Ontario were on display including the Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1, that the company once advertised as “The finest clock made in America”.

Baird clock from Montreal
Baird clock from Montreal
Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1
Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1

None of the clocks were running, however. Though the clocks appeared to be in excellent condition, the sound of ticking clocks make for a more authentic experience. All other clock museums make a practice of running some clocks on a rotating basis at any given time.

At the entrance to the clock collection there is a simple plaque dedicated to Norman D. Phinney. Learning more about Norman D. Phinney, his contribution to the Macdonald Museum and the story of how the museum received his clock collection would add to the experience.

Norman D Phinney
Norman D Phinney

If you are a clock fan or even if you only have a casual interest in the world of horology, this small clock museum may surprise you

Though perhaps not within the scope of Phinney’s original collection, examples from the Canada Clock Co. and the Hamilton Clock Co. or more peddlers clocks from Nova Scotia and New Brunswick would have provided an enhanced Canadian horological perspective.

Steeple or sharp Gothic clocks
Steeple or sharp Gothic clocks

However, these are minor quibbles and should not detract you from appreciating the high quality of the exhibits which contained British, American, French and Canadian examples or the many styles that included Pillar and Scroll, tall-case, shelf, beehive, steeple, drop octagons, mantel, alarm clocks and Ogee clocks, all of which were well represented.

If you are a clock fan or even if you only have a casual interest in the world of horology, this small clock museum may surprise you.

Oh, and while there, visit the rest of this fascinating museum.

Tick Talk Tuesday #15 -what size clock key do I need?

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

CM writes,

4 and 5 prong keys and singles
4 and 5 prong keys and singles

“Hello, I just read your article about keys for wind-up clocks. I have a parlor clock that belonged to my parents. It is on the wall, has a pendulum & requires winding. I believe that it is from the early 1980’s. And made by The Time Mfg. Co. However, I do not have a key – seems that it was lost prior to my getting it. Can you tell me what kind of key I need to get for it? And do you have any that would fit my clock that I could purchase? Thank you so much & have a great day.”

My reply,

“Hi CM. Thanks for coming to my blog. If it is made in the 1980s it is likely Chinese or Korean but it is hard to tell unless I see a photo. If I am correct these are 31 day movements. You could measure the arbours which will tell you the size but it likely takes a #6 or a #8 key which you can find here.”

Sperry and Shaw 30 hour 4 column New York Style shelf clock circa 1846-47

4 column Sperry and Shaw 30 hour shelf clock
4 column Sperry and Shaw 30 hour shelf clock

I have the 30-hour clock bug and my collection of them is steadily growing, but where to put them all? I have not decided where to put this one and for the moment it is on the floor of my work room.

Sperry and Shaw were not thought of as a high end clock company but some models like this 4 column New York style were quite attractive

This is a New York-styled Sperry and Shaw 30 hour time and strike, 4 column shelf hour strike clock, measuring 25 1/2 inches in height by 14 inches in width. The 4 free-standing turned columns first drew my attention as I had never seen anything quite like it. While researching the NAWCC site I discovered that this clock was made in or about 1846-47. The label, of which 98% is intact inside the backboard says 10 Courtlandt (not a misspell, there is a second”t”) Street, the company headquarters during the aforementioned period. Sperry and Shaw were business partners and were regarded as distributors and assemblers rather than clock-makers.

 

Sperry and Shaw's label showing 10 Cortlandt St.
Sperry and Shaw’s label showing 10 Cortlandt St.

They sourced cases and movements, affixed their own stamp on the movement and placed their labels (sometimes over other makers labels) inside the case, a common practice at the time as clocks for the home and workplace both locally and abroad were in great demand.

Not everyone in the clock business was happy with Sperry and Shaw. Consider this excerpt from Chauncey Jerome’s book, History of the American Clock Business.

“These New York men would say that they were agents for Jerome and that they would have a plenty in a few days, and make a sale to these merchants of Jerome clocks. They would then go to the Printers and have a lot of labels struck off and put into their cheap clocks, and palm them off as mine. This fraud carried on for several years. I finally sued some of these blackleg parties, Samuels & Dunn and Sperry & Shaw, and found out to my satisfaction that they had used more than two hundred thousand of my labels. They had probably sent about one hundred thousand to Europe.”

Chauncey Jerome had a few clock-makers/assemblers on his hit list that included Sperry and Shaw and at least managed to sue some successfully.

Sperry and Shaw were not thought of as a high-end clock company but some models like this 4 column New York style were quite attractive, sold well at the time and are sought after today by collectors.

The movement is Jerome-like (Counterfeit perhaps?) and stamped Sperry and Shaw, New Jersey. I measured the plate thickness and compared it to a Jerome in my collection and the plates in this clock are a little thinner.

The narrow brick-shaped weights (4  3/4 inches X 1 inch) fit neatly into channels on the left and right. When I first communicated with the seller, he was not sure if the weights were in the clock. He later emailed to say that it did indeed have weights. I would have passed on the clock had it not come with the weights because the narrow bricks are the only type that will fit into the channels and they would have been almost impossible to source. The weight cords, clearly not original, are old and frayed and will be replaced with simulated gut. How old, well on the first night I raised the strike weight up about halfway and about 20 minutes later I heard a loud BANG. I knew exactly what happened; the cord had snapped and the weight had dropped. Luckily there was no damage.

The open moon steel hands are original.

The upper glass appears original and has the waviness you would expect from a clock over 172 years old.

The lower tablet has a cropped image of the Bay of Quinte (Ontario, Canada) taped to the inside – not original but old. The original 18X12 cm steel engraving was drawn by W. H. Bartlett and engraved by J. C. Armytage in 1840; the image can be found here. Since the image is from 1840 and appropriate to the period of the clock, I might just leave it there. It also tells me that the clock likely spent most of its life in Ontario, Canada.

Sperry and Shaw clock showing dial and lower tablet
Sperry and Shaw clock showing dial and lower tablet print

The zinc dial is old though not as old as the clock itself since there is a patent stamp on the back of the dial dated Dec 1, 1863.

Dial patent date of 1863
Dial patent date of 1863, a later addition to the clock

There is also a clock-makers inscription that says, “cleaned by Felo Bros, March XX 1901”. Obviously this particular dial would not have been on the clock at the time it was made. A wood dial would have been appropriate for the period.

Clock-makers inscription in pencil
Clock-makers inscription in pencil

The case looks good…from a distance. The veneer looks like mahogany or walnut, I am really not sure. There are a few small pieces of veneer missing at various places and mostly on the corners, a common issue. It has a two-tone appearance though the case might have been all one colour when made (??). There is a lot of grime on the darker surfaces and I have to decide whether to leave as-is or take it down a little bit to see what’s there. Attending to the veneer issues should be a fairly straightforward process. The break in the right corner of the base is a crude repair and that will have to be redone.

One of several areas of minor veneer loss
One of several areas of minor veneer loss

The movement is dirty but should clean up nicely. There is not a lot of pivot wear on the front plate of the movement but I will learn more once it is out of its case.

There are a number of other clocks in the queue but I am eager to tackle this one.

Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock – moving ahead with repairs

Freshly lacqurered case

Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock
Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock in as-found condition

The photos tell the story

Some time ago I wrote an article on an Ansonia barn find. It is an Ansonia Extra Drop time-only Rosewood veneered wall clock, circa 1880. I thought I would update readers on how this little project is progressing. I was able to find most of the parts but there are still some missing. I will let the photos tell the story.

It did not look like it would ever run again
It did not look like it would ever run again

Siezed time-only movement
Before shot of the seized time-only movement

Cleaned up time only movement
Cleaned and serviced one-train time-only movement

Ansonia movement in case
Ansonia movement in the case and running an 8-day full cycle

The movement was cleaned up with 4 bushings installed and is now able to run a full 8-day cycle. The case received attention with glue repairs, a new backboard, new right finial and a re-lacquering of the veneer surface. The veneer was in good condition and required very minor repairs.

Dial with minor losses, At this point is test fit with the wood bezel
Dial with minor losses

Touched up dial, mounted in case
The dial has been touched up and mounted in the case

Addressing the paint loss on the dial was a challenge. I played with various shades and mixed colours that were a close match to the original. The result is better than it was. The glass fits into a slot on the wood bezel and the fit was surprisingly tight. Had I known I would have glued the bezel pieces with the glass in place. Lesson learned!

I am still missing the drop access door plus its reverse painted glass and the brass bezel that surrounds the dial face. I will make the door but will leave that project for another day. My search for the brass bezel continues.

As I progress with this restoration project I will keep the reader up to date with changes.

Ansonia cottage clock – a neglected clock brought back to life

Taking a look at this Ansonia cotteg clockwith the dial off

Last summer (2017) my sister asked me to look at her newly acquired Ansonia time-only 1-day cottage clock (circa 1895). “How much did you pay for it”, I said. “Only $25 but it doesn’t work, something is wrong with it,” she said without being specific. And she was correct.

The clock would have not cost much at the time, perhaps a dollar or so but today people collect small clocks such as this and prices can be higher than the more common mantel clock. In those days for an extra 50 cents you could buy a time and strike cottage clock with an alarm feature but his one is pretty basic. They were cheaply built, somewhat disposable since very few made their way to the repair shop and not as many have survived.

Several months have gone by and I thought I should take a look at the clock, repair the movement, spruce up the case and dial face and return it to my sister in working condition. Having completed a number of other projects I decided I had time to tackle this one.

Time-only 30 hour movement
Time-only 30 hour movement

It was dirty as expected and the gears generally loose, particularly the winding arbour. It was clear something around the mainspring was amiss. The click was loose and would not engage every time.

Top plate is removed
The top plate is removed

Time-only movements are the simplest to work on and this is no exception. If you are starting out in the world of mechanical clocks this is the movement to begin with. The movement is very small in comparison to mantel or kitchen clocks and measures only 2 inches wide by 3 inches tall. Despite its diminutive size, it is easy to work on. The case itself is only 9 1/2 inches tall by 7 inches wide by 3 1/2 inches deep.

The movement had been worked on before. The click anchor screw was stripped and there were punch marks on the escape wheel bridge.

New bushing but 2 punch marks are still showing
New bushing but 2 punch marks are visible

The most troubling issue was the main wheel arbour which had detached from the gear. It took a few punches on the brass shroud to push it in back into place and secure the wheel to the arbour. Not the prettiest of repairs but very functional. The click was also loose and would barely engage the ratchet. It took a couple of hits with a hammer on the holding pin to secure it tightly in place.

The arbour is now secured to the wheel and the click has been repaired
The arbour is now secured to the wheel and the click has been repaired

Four bushings were installed, the centre arbour (rear), the rear of numbers 2 and 3 wheels and the escape wheel bridge.

Centering prior to drilling a hole for a bushing
Centering prior to drilling a hole for a bushing. You can also see how small the plate is

The clock was mounted on the test stand and run for several days without issue. Once testing was completed it was returned to its case.

The numbers on the dial were somewhat faded. I decided to address the numbers with a little paint.

Faded numerals on dial face
Faded numerals on the dial face

I was concerned about being too invasive when touching up the dial but I thought the numerals should stand out a little more. I used a number 2 paintbrush and touched them up using flat black acrylic metal paint and a Sharpie pen for the small lines. The effect is subtle without being over the top.

After touching up the numbers with paint and a Sharpie for the thin lines
After touching up the numbers with paint and using a Sharpie and straight-edge for the thin lines

The case was cleaned up with a toothbrush and Murphy’s Soap. There is some finish loss on top but I will leave that as-is.

Here is the completed project. The movement is now back in its case.

Assembled, in beat and ticking away strongly
Assembled, in beat and ticking away strongly

The hands, which appear original, are attached and the clock is running better than it has in years.

I am sure that my sister will be pleased when the clock is returned to her.

Arthur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock – an interesting find

Restored Athur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock

As regular readers know I am a fan of Arthur Pequegnat clocks not just because they were made in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada but they are attractive, well made and hold their value well (in Canada!).

Eddy's photo of the clock
Eddy’s photo of the clock

I have had clocks given to me in the past but this was a rather unusual situation. As readers know I publish at least seven or eight articles a month in order to provide interesting content on all aspects of mechanical clocks. I publish a regular feature called Tick Talk Tuesday in which I profile the mail I receive from readers. The mail is private email and not comments after a blog article. I receive many emails you will not find on my blog. Some people prefer writing to me privately and that is perfectly fine.

I received one such email some time ago from Eddy who lives in the Quebec City area (Province of Quebec, Canada). Eddy was researching my blog and discovered that I admired and collected Canadian-made Arthur Pequegnat clocks. He wondered if I would have an Arthur Pequegnat clock added to my collection.

Because it was an Arthur Pequegnat I was immediately interested but I did not expect a reply. To my surprise Eddy answered with five photos of the clock from various angles. It was a mantel clock in pretty rough shape and after seeing his photos I was still curious even though it likely required a lot of work to restore it.

Top of the clock
Top of the clock

In his email Eddy explained that he was having serious health issues and was taking stock of his life. He had a number of antique and vintage items that his father and grandfather had left him and he felt they should be passed on to someone who would appreciate having them. As Eddy explained, “My father had that clock as a trade against work done for people he helps with their house and lawn chores. He gave it to me since he’s got too many, just like my grand-father did. He was okay with me parting with it.”

I wrote back and told him that a meeting was indeed possible. We would be passing through the Quebec City area in the next few days on our way to our cottage in Quebec to open it up for the summer. We (my wife and I) had even planned to stay in that area for the night. We could stop by to have a look at the clock. Eddy then provided me with his address and telephone number. A meeting day and time was set up.

After nine hours of driving we arrived at his door. He invited us in and we spent a very pleasant two hours getting to know each other, discussing my collection of clocks, talking about the clock in question, his fathers hobby of searching out old antiques and finally, matters related to his struggle with a serious illness.

broken brass hinge
broken brass hinge

I was a little confused. Was he was actually giving me the clock or did he expect money in return so I decided to ask him straight out. No, he said, you can have it. he then brought out three other clocks to the kitchen table, a cottage clock, a steeple clock and a swinger. He asked me if I wanted those as well and I thanked him for the offer but declined. While they were very nice clocks I felt awkward taking all of them for nothing. So, we left with just one clock.

We walked out the door with clock in hand and for the next hour of our drive we talked about Eddy and his gift of an Arthur Pequegnat clock.

The clock was complete with original hands, pendulum bob, coil gong and of course, the signature Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates. The only visible sign of an issue with the movement was the time side mainspring which, as Eddy explained, could not be wound with a key. Damaged veneer, side trim pieces splitting open was clear evidence that at some point the clock had been dropped or fallen hard. The impact point was the very top of the  clock. Yes, it was in rough shape!

A challenge to repair? Yes, but I graciously accepted the clock knowing that I would have to spend several hours putting it right.

The sides and front were coming apart
Both sides and the trim front were coming apart

Thanks to Eddy I am now the new owner of an Arthur Pequegnat, Bedford model that I will add to my collection of four other Pequegnat clocks. In a later post I will detail the repairs to this fine Canadian made clock.

Eddy suggested that instead of offering him money that we donate to a charity and so a cheque went to the Canadian Cancer Society. I have never given names to my clocks but this one will always be called Eddy in honour of a individual who felt strongly that a family treasure should go to an appreciative owner.

Looking for an antique Ogee clock? Now is the best time to buy

George H. Clark 30 hour movement

Ogee clock prices seem to be at their lowest level in years. If you have your heart set on an Ogee clock, there is probably no better time to buy than now.

Ogee clock; clock design that originated in the United States in the 1830s, distinguished by a case (usually pine) the front outer edges of which are curved into an S-shape (ogee). This shape is formed by the union of a convex and a concave line. A mass-produced variant of the shelf clock, the ogee clock stands about 30 inches (75 cm) high and is usually weight-driven. The movements were usually made of brass and were made to run for 30 hours or eight days. (Brittanica.com)

Earlier this year (2018) I bought three Ogee clocks at an estate auction. There were about a dozen clocks up for bid, some gingerbreads, a couple of mantel clocks and a few Ogee clocks. Fearing that the auction would bring out collectors I surmised that the clocks would fetch somewhat higher prices. Though there were many clocks there were few aficionados. I scored three clocks, all were in very good condition though they were running poorly.

Daniel Pratt reverse ogee and splat clock
Daniel Pratt reverse ogee and splat clock

This Daniel Pratt Jr clock caught my eye. It is reverse ogee and splat, time and strike with wood movement made in the mid-1830s. My winning bid was a mere 30CDN. Ogee clocks with wood movements have sold for at least 200CDN in years past and eBay asking prices for Daniel Pratt Jr. clocks are typically between 60US and 200US. Although Ogee clocks have hit rock bottom in Canada the same may not be true elsewhere.

Wooden movement, time and strike
Wooden movement, time and strike

I have written about the decline in clock prices in a previous post. There is a legion of unwanted clocks out there. EBay and other online sites are flooded with ordinary antique clocks though special interest clocks still command higher prices. Many reasons are attributed to the decline though the poor economy in recent years is a major factor. Since 2008 clock prices have been dropping steadily and an upward direction in the near future looks dim. Prices are at or near the bottom. As the economy improves and antique buyers return to the marketplace we will see an uptick in values. In the meantime, now is certainly the time to buy.

Clocks, manufactured and warranted by Daniel Pratt Jr
Clocks, manufactured and warranted by Daniel Pratt Jr

I paid 60CDN each for the other two Ogee clocks, one a Chauncey Jerome 30 hour time and strike, circa 1857, the other, a George H. Clark 30 hour time and strike, circa 1860.

Chauncey Jerome 30 hoir Ogee clock
Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee clock

George H Clark Ogee clock
George H Clark 30 hour Ogee clock

Sellers are posting inflated prices but a clock is only worth what the buyer will pay. Do your research and learn to shop with a critical eye and you be rewarded.

 

Old Sessions shelf clock

Sessions American No. 2
Sessions American No. 2, my clock but exactly as in ad

Old Clock nice wood and brass good glass works great have both keys

Seller wants $60. Nice Sessions American time and strike mantel clock at a good price but really, 2 keys?

All American time and strike clocks require one key only.

240 clock posts later and still ticking away

Rural Nova Scotia antique shop

The other day I decided to explore my humble beginnings and realized that 240 posts ago was post number one. Three years ago I had recently retired and I decided to look into blogging, something I always wanted to do. I never considered myself a great writer. I do not have that natural flair that some people seem to have for writing but I wanted to give it a try. I had some thoughts and ideas that I wanted to communicate with an audience that was looking for something a little different.

I attended a WordPress session at my local college and was very impressed with how easy it was to set up a blogging site. Anyone can do it said the facilitator and I wasted no time getting started. WordPress impressed me as a very intuitive package then and after 3 years I am still impressed with the power of the product.

This year as some of you know I decided to buy a domain name which I think is a great name and says everything it needs to,  antiquevintageclock.com and a 1-year automatically renewable subscription. I won’t go into the additional benefits of the new package suffice to say the time was right for a change. The result has been a slight uptick in hits and exposure to more powerful options within WordPress.

Just a note about hits. In the first week or so of my new domain name my hits dropped dramatically, something to do with Google’s ranking analytics and not unusual for a brand new domain name. Of course, after I hit the migrate button and saw my hits drop I found an article that spoke directly to making preparations beforehand to avoid low hits after migration but too late for me. It would have been nice for a WordPress warning box to pop that would have read, “Oh, before you do that you may want to read this”

So, here is what I said three years ago. It was a short article and I remember at the time what a real struggle it was to put those first few words together.

I am no more than a clock collector and tinkerer. I am not a trained horologist nor do I have a great talent for clock repair or even getting a simple clock back to working order, but I find the world of horology to be quite fascinating.

It is a relatively new hobby for me which began with the purchase of a Daniel Dakota 2-train wall clock about 3 years ago.

The clock that started my collection, a humble Chinese clock that still ticks today.

Now I know what you are thinking. Why start with a Chinese made clock which most would consider inferior to almost any other clock in the world. Well, it was pretty cheap and it piqued my interest in collecting. From there I moved on to a Ridgeway grandfather clock and to my current collection of Mauthe, Seth Thomas, Hermle, Forestville, Sessions, Smiths Enfield, Muller and Pequegnat clocks.

I intend to profile my clocks both old and newly acquired on this blog and describe my attempts to repair and maintain my modest collection. I might even solicit a little help from my fellow clock enthusiasts.

Some of the nicer things about clock collecting are that is a great conversation starter and it allows me to combine my other passions, photography and traveling. Finding good clocks means traveling around the province of Nova Scotia, meeting interesting people along the way and is some cases getting fabulous deals. All the photos on this site are my own. I will try to capture the beauty of these old mechanical clocks and talk about the pedigree if I can learn anything about the history of any of these clocks..

Stay tuned. It is all a learning experience and as I bravely go further into the hobby I will be able to share my many experiences.

Well, I am still doing what I set out to do, profile my modest collection and pass on the clock repair techniques I have learned to the novice and intermediate clock repairer. Do I know more than I knew then? Sure, isn’t that what learning is all about? I am still tuned in and I hope you are too.

Tick Talk Tuesday #14 – Can you tell me something about my Forestville clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

GGs Forestville Mantel clock
GGs Forestville Mantel clock

GG writes: “Hello there,,,I was wondering if you know much about my mantle clock and maybe it’s value?

I have attached some photos!”

My reply: “Thanks for coming to my blog. That is one of the nicest mantel clock cases I have seen on a Forestville and it appears to be in good shape.

Forestville is a Canadian Company based out of Toronto. They went out of business in 1979. They did not make their own movements instead sourcing them from England, France, the US and Germany though they made their own clock cases.

GGs clock showing German made movement and pendulum bob
GGs clock showing German made movement and pendulum bob

You may or may not know that Forestville was called the Blackforest Clock company prior to WWII. So, you have a post war clock made in the late 1940s or early 50s. Later on In the 1950s Forestville went from using pendulums in their clocks to balance wheels (no pendulum). Forestville also sourced German movements exclusively after the war. Your movement (the brass works) was likely made by Mauthe or Hermle, both well known and well respected German companies.

You have what is known as a time and strike Bim-Bam clock. It strikes the respective hour and once on the half hour but makes a distinctive “Bim-Bam” sound as a result of one hammer striking one rod while the other two strikes two rods simultaneously.

Unfortunately there are thousands of similar clocks and Forestville clocks are not particularly distinctive but a clock such as this in good running condition might fetch about $100.”

GG writes back to explain that the movement is an Enfield from England which stands to reason if it was made immediately after the Second War.

Westclox travel alarm clock made in China

Westclox travel alarm clock

While on a vacation in the Dominican Republic we brought along an old Westclox wind-up mechanical travel alarm clock for no other reason but to have it as a curiosity and of course, to get us up in the morning. You might wonder why an alarm clock is necessary for a relaxing beach vacation. Well, if you have excursions planned for a specific day, it’s essential to wake up early and on schedule.

We’ve all become accustomed to using electronic alarms, like those on our cell phones or tablets, to wake us at a precise time. However, my brief testing showed that this compact travel alarm clock works well, even if it’s not quite as precise.

This is a Westclox travel alarm clock I purchased from a local antique dealer for $6. It’s in excellent condition, suggesting it hasn’t seen much travel. Clocks like this often didn’t fare well with heavy use; once they broke, they were typically discarded.

I would date it to the 1960s. It is very compact, measuring 3 inches square by 1 1/2 inches deep when collapsed. It is in a light brown plastic case and folds into its case when transported. It fits easily into a purse, messenger bag, overnight bag, or suitcase.

Collapsed, the clock fits anywhere
Collapsed, the clock fits anywhere

Unlike older alarm clocks that usually have two separate winding keys, this one combines the winding mechanism for both the bell alarm and the time function into a single key. The center knob is used to adjust the time, while the upper-left knob sets the alarm. Additionally, there is a speed adjustment located just above the center knob.

Red lever is for activating the alarm
The red lever activates the alarm

The three patent numbers on the back of the clock don’t clearly indicate the exact year it was manufactured.

These clocks were produced in large quantities and can often be found for under $10 on online marketplaces or in antique stores.

Back of alarm clock showing setting knobs
Back of the alarm clock shows setting knobs

While many Westclox alarm clocks were produced in Canada and the US, by the 1960s, production shifted offshore to reduce costs. This particular clock was made in China, whereas other similar Westclox alarm clocks from the same era were manufactured in Taiwan.

Westclox alarm clocks were originally produced by the United Clock Company in Peru, Illinois in the late nineteenth century.

The company initially failed, became the Western Clock Co., and again went bankrupt, reorganized under the Western Clock Manufacturing Co., and found success when they acquired the first patent for the Big Ben alarm clock in the early part of the 20th Century. In 1931 Western Clock Co. merged with Seth Thomas with both companies falling under the General Time Corporation. Westclox then became a division of General Time.

Regarding the Canadian connection, a significant number of Westclox alarm clocks sold in North America were manufactured in Peterborough, Ontario, from 1922 to the early 1980s.

Quite often alarm clocks that I find in flea markets and antique shops are dented, missing winding keys and other adjustment knobs which I try to avoid (unless for parts) but this one was complete.

Although I primarily collect clocks, I do have several alarm clocks in my collection. I am selective, adding only those that are particularly interesting, and I avoid clocks with luminous dials from the early 20th century due to the potential exposure to Radium.

Most traveling alarm clocks remain quite affordable, except for certain Swiss and French models.

This clock is an excellent example from a company that was once the undisputed leader in alarm clock production.

The sundial – the earliest time telling object

On a recent trip to the Dominican Republic my wife and I spent the day in the capital city of Santo Domingo. It is the largest city in the Dominican Republic and the oldest city in the Americas.

Square in historic centre of Santo Domingo
Square in historic centre of Santo Domingo

Central cathedral, Santo Domingo
Central cathedral, Santo Domingo

Although the city considers itself a European in style and architecture, in appearance it is not unlike any other city in the Caribbean. Most of the historic buildings are located in the Colonial Zone or Zona Colonial, a walled 16-square-block historic district with many firsts of the New World such as the first cathedral, university, and hospital. Most of our time was spent in this historic district where we saw museums, castles, churches, had a light lunch and this sundial.

Sundial in historic district Santo Domingo
Sundial in historic district Santo Domingo, showing 11:30am

Jesuit church, Santo Domingo
Jesuit church, Santo Domingo

A sundial is a device that tells the time when there is sunlight. It does so by casting a shadow according to the position of the sun in the sky. The part of it that casts the shadow is called the gnomon, a sort of shark-fin like object. As the earth turns on its polar axis, the sun appears to cross the sky from east to west, rising at sun-rise from beneath the horizon to a zenith at mid-day and falling again behind the horizon at sunset. Sundials indicate the local solar time only. Before the introduction of the mechanical clock, the sundial was the only source of time. Ironically, when the clcok was invented the sundial became more important as a way of regulating the clock as its accuracy was poor.

The Alcázar de Colón, or Columbus Alcazar is the oldest Viceregal residence in America
The Alcázar de Colón, or Columbus Alcazar is the oldest Viceregal residence in America

Torre del Reloj, clokc tower, Santo Domingo
Torre del Reloj, clock tower, Santo Domingo

Sundials have been invented independently in all major cultures and become more accurate and sophisticated as the culture developed. The earliest sundials go back to 1500BC from ancient Egyptian astronomy, however, humans were telling time from shadow-lengths at an even earlier date, but this is difficult to verify.

Indeed, we have come a long way from the sundial.

Unlike mechanical clock movements, they are easy to maintain. As they say, there are two clocks that should never be oiled, the Atmos and the sundial.

 

Interesting steeple clock from the short-lived Hamilton Clock Co. (Canada)

Hamilton Clock Co. 30 hour time and strike

Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple clock
Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple clock

I wasn’t on the lookout for another steeple clock but when I discovered this on a local online for-sale site I just could not pass it up.
Let’s clear something up from the outset. The Hamilton Clock Co in the United States and the Hamilton Watch Co were probably associated with each other in some way but the Hamilton Clock Co. located in Hamilton Ontario, Canada which operated between 1876 and 1880 was not in any way affiliated with the American company.
I bought his Hamilton Clock Co. 30-hour time and strike steeple clock from a local seller. I am sure the seller thought he did well with the sale as he did not budge from the 100CDN he was asking. However, I consider this a win-win situation. We were both pleased because clocks from the Hamilton Clock Co. are sought after by Canadian collectors and this example would easily fetch much more than the price I paid. I was particularly intrigued by the etched tablet with, “Cling to the Cross” a religious phrase that was popular at the time. It is the larger of two versions at 19 ¼”. The Hamilton Clock company made the only true steeple clocks and very few survive.

The 30-hour time and strike movement is appropriately stamped HAMILTON CLOCK CO. HAMILTON ONT. The suspension spring is mounted higher up than a photo I saw on the Canadian Clock Museum site which shows the suspension spring mounted below the hour cannon. There is also a pin through what looks like the intermediate gear on this movement. There had to be some variations over the period the movement was made.

The clock is not without issues, after all, it was made between 1876 and 1880 and some wear and tear is expected for a 140-year-old clock. Everything seems to be there and it is in good shape including the “Cling to the Cross” inscription on the tablet. The etched glass tablet was the result of an association with glass factories in the Hamilton area and unlike anything offered by other companies. There were a whole series of clocks made with similar religious messages.

30-hour time and strike movement with clock company inscription on the bottom of the front plate
30-hour time and strike movement with clock company inscription on the bottom of the front plate

The original dial face is faded/worn, the hands are original and the 30-hour movement has the correct pendulum. There are minor veneer losses here and there consisting mostly of chips. The right steeple is also missing its tip.

Veneer chips on left side of base
Veneer chips on the left side of the double-curved base

The label is not complete but is quite readable.

Loss on the clock label
Loss on the clock label

Half the label is missing but enough to identify the clock.
Half the label is missing but enough to clearly identify the clock-maker

A complete label should look like this better example

The clock runs surprisingly well but requires a thorough cleaning and repair work on the time side ratchet click which slips when the arbour is wound. Generally, the clock appears to be in reasonably good shape.
I am always intrigued by clocks made entirely in Canada. The following information is taken from the Canadian Clock Museum located in Deep River Ontario (Canada). A must visit if you are in Canada, love clocks and are especially interested in Canadian makers.
“This company was established in 1876, after the failure of the Canada Clock Company in Whitby, Ontario.
The machinery and other tools and equipment were purchased and moved to Hamilton by two business men, James Simpson and George Lee.  Simpson, born in Scotland, had been active in Hamilton for years as a partner in a wholesale grocery business.  He assumed the title of President of the clock company.  Lee, born in Ireland, was also active in food wholesaling, and the operation of hotels, and restaurants.  He became the Business Manager.  Neither man had any prior experience with factory operations or clock making.
Technical expertise was provided by John F. Collins, who had previously acted as Manager of the Canada Clock Company in Whitby and had been instrumental in equipping and operating that enterprise.  He was brought from Whitby along with the equipment and given the title of Mechanical Superintendent.
Collins utilized tools, dies and designs he had created at Whitby, so the Hamilton company was really a continuation of his previous efforts. He was able to broaden the range of movements and case styles, and hence to offer a more complete line of merchandise.  Unfortunately, after a few years, he appears to have fallen out with the new owners and left the company in 1879.
George Lee, in turn, suffered health problems and was obliged to leave around 1880.
This left James Simpson as sole proprietor.  He ended production under the name Hamilton Clock Company and proceeded to make major changes.  The factory and equipment were retained, but a completely updated product line was developed.  Simpson found new investors and incorporated the firm as a public company that was renamed The Canada Clock Company Limited.
The Hamilton Clock Company appears to have made a valiant effort to provide clocks for the Canadian market, in competition with the huge U.S. clock factories that already dominated the market.  Hamilton clocks matched competitive products in appearance and their quality was quite adequate.  The volume achieved, however, was never very large and the product line was simple and limited.  No catalogs or printed material have ever been found from the company and our opinions can only be based on an examination of surviving clocks.  Perhaps, like the attempt in Whitby, the available capital and ‘know-how’ were insufficient to ensure a major success.”
There is nothing novel or unusual about Hamilton Clock Co. clocks. They had movements and cases similar to American made clocks but since the production was limited to 4 years, fewer were made, they are rare and therefore more desirable for collectors.
Overall I am pleased with this acquisition.

Kundo 400 day oval anniversary clock – let’s get this thing working!

Dial face of a 400 day clock

Of the five anniversary clocks in my collection, none have cost me more than $30. It’s unfortunate because these clocks are truly fascinating devices. They are well-crafted, delicate, and ornamental, driven by spring mechanisms. While many thousands were produced, their abundance is reflected in their low value today. My focus is on collecting the older mechanical models, the last of which were manufactured over 35 years ago, and steer clear of the battery-operated anniversary clocks still being sold.

Among clock repair enthusiasts (horologists), opinions on anniversary clocks vary—some enjoy working on them, while others struggle to develop an affinity for them. I fall firmly into the former group, finding these clocks both intriguing and enjoyable to work on.

Kundo 400 day torsion clock
Kundo 400 day torsion clock

Gustav Becker, Haller, and Schatz 400-day clocks are certainly more desirable, better made, and fetch higher prices. While I don’t have any of these makes in my collection, I am always on the lookout for more desirable and collectible models.

Movement before cleaning
Movement prior to cleaning and showing verdigris on the spring barrel

I picked this up for $5 at a local antique store. When buying one of these clocks, regardless of the price, it’s crucial to check that all parts are present, as sourcing a missing part can be nearly impossible unless you purchase an identical clock for parts. Often, the only issue is a broken suspension spring.

Fortunately, this Kundo clock was complete and in generally good condition. However, the suspension spring had clearly been snapped off due to improper transport. Many people either forget about or are unaware that these clocks feature highly effective pendulum locking mechanisms.

These are called torsion clocks because there is a weighted disk or wheel, often a decorative wheel with 3 or 4 chrome or brass balls on ornate spokes, suspended by a thin wire or ribbon called a torsion spring (otherwise known as a suspension spring). The torsion pendulum rotates about the vertical axis of the wire, twisting it, instead of swinging like an ordinary pendulum.

These clocks operate very slowly—in the case of this Kundo Junior, just 10 beats per minute compared to 100 beats per minute or more for a typical pendulum mantel clock. Due to the slow movement of the gears, wear is minimal, and it’s quite common to find these clocks with a broken suspension spring as their only issue.

Front plate removed
Front plate removed

The movement was disassembled and cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. The mainspring was removed from the barrel, cleaned, and serviced. Otherwise, there was minimal wear to the pivot holes. In fact, I have never needed to install a bushing in an anniversary clock because their slow operation results in very little friction.

The old spring was very twisted

Now, it’s time to install the new suspension spring. The suspension spring is a very thin piece of steel running down the back of the clock, designed to twist back and forth while suspending the pendulum balls. It’s crucial not to kink or bend it, as a bent or crimped spring is the most common reason these clocks fail to function properly.

You can purchase pre-assembled suspension springs in kit form—springs already fitted with blocks and a fork—but I’ve found it far more cost-effective to buy the springs separately and re-use the blocks and fork. To ensure accuracy, I consulted my Horolovar manual (I eventually purchased one) to find the exact template—Kundo 5E, in this case. I then unscrew the blocks and fork to install the new spring. Here is an example of a suspension spring from a Kern 400-day clock.

suspension spring installed on a Kern
A new suspension spring was installed on a Kern

Installing the suspension spring requires a little patience. While it is a delicate process, it’s relatively easy to do. It’s best to work on a flat surface. There are screws on both the top and bottom blocks that must be loosened before the new spring can be inserted. The bottom block was a bit stubborn, and a jeweler’s screwdriver is essential—you don’t want to strip those tiny screws.

Use the template in the Horolovar manual as your guide. For the Kern clock mentioned earlier, I had to rely on some guesswork while waiting for the manual to arrive, but once it did, I was able to confirm the measurements. After positioning the blocks, attach the fork and secure it with screws.

Install the bottom block first. Attach the spring block to the 4 pendulum balls with the pin then lock the pendulum balls in place using the locking lever. Some 400-day clocks use a simpler bottom block solution that simply hooks the block into place. Because this one uses a pin it is a bit more frustrating. After the bottom block is secured and locked in place install the top block to the top mount by first slipping the fork over the verge post. In the case of this Kundo it is a small side screw that secures the top block to the mount (saddle?).

I then attached the dial face and the hands then gave the pendulum a gentle 360-degree spin. Not surprisingly the clock failed to maintain its spin. An adjustment was required.

Looking at the top of the clock, you’ll see a screw that can be loosened to adjust the fork in one direction or another. Be very careful not to kink the suspension spring when loosening this screw. Loosen it gently, just enough to allow movement, and make small, incremental adjustments when setting the beat. While you can buy a beat adjustment tool for 400-day clocks, with a bit of trial and error—observing the verge’s action and fine-tuning the beat setter—you’ll eventually find the correct beat. You’ll know it’s “in beat” when the time between the tick and tock is the same. At that point, the clock should run smoothly. Since the ticking is so quiet, it helps to turn off any background noise in the room while making adjustments. I have several loud-ticking clocks in my office, and I stop them to assist with the process.

If you work on enough torsion clocks, a Timetrax or similar beat amplifier will make the task much easier.

The clock has been running for several weeks and is in the process of being regulated. Above the pendulum balls in a regulating adjustment dial. You will see a “+” and a “-“.  Adjusting towards the plus side speeds up the clock and the minus slows it down. I recommend minute turns for either adjustment.

There’s some debate about whether or not to oil these clocks, given the slow movement of the gears. While polishing the pivots to reduce friction can certainly be beneficial, I believe a bit of pivot oil is never a bad idea.

As I mentioned earlier, I’m part of the group that enjoys working on 400-day clocks, appreciating their delicate mechanisms and the satisfaction that comes with restoring them to working condition.

Cast Iron Banjo Clock

When I saw this listed on an online for sale site and not seeing a picture of the clock I was very curious. Imagine my amusement when I opened up the ad and saw this.

Banjo clock
Banjo clock

THE AD: Vintage cast iron bango player clock beautiful piece Heavy 16 in tall great condition

Well, it IS a banjo clock or should I say “bango”!

Blackforest shelf clock (Canadian made) gives me grief but decides to run again

Blackforest movement on the test stand
Blackforest shelf clock
Blackforest shelf clock

The clock is a 1937 Blackforest Royal Tour commemorative edition shelf clock with an 8-day time-only “plate” clock movement. Plate clock movements are so-called because they were typically used on kitchen clocks with Dutch Delft plates such as this one in the next photo.

Delft Clock from Forestville
Delft Plate Clock from Forestville

The movement is likely German and could have been made by a number of companies. There are no stamps or markings on the movement to give any indication of the maker. Canadian companies such as the Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto (the Forestville Clock Company after the war) imported German movements before the Second World War and installed them in Canadian made cases.

Grimy movement prior to cleaning
Grimy movement prior to cleaning

This clock had been happily running for about a year and then last week it suddenly stopped after a winding. I nudged the pendulum in an effort to make it go, checked to see if it was in beat and level but no luck. I nudged the pendulum a few more times, left it for a day or so, tried it again and still no luck. I was at the point of disassembling the movement to investigate the problem. Two days later I wound it tight and gave the pendulum a push and it sprang to life. I think I know what happened.

I thought I did a good job of servicing the movement including the mainspring over a year ago but apparently not well enough. You may have heard the expression, “you overwound the clock so that’s why it stopped”. There is a grain of truth in the expression because if you wind the spring till it winds no further the mainspring is at it tightest. If there are dirt, grime and rust on the mainspring the mainspring will actually cease in place, hence the clock stops. I believe this is what occurred in this case. Although it is running now it will need to be properly cleaned. In the meantime, I will let it run and see if it completes its full 8-day cycle.

Featured article on Chelsea Clock blog about my blog

The following is an article that was featured on the Chelsea Clock blog

I have always had a fascination with clocks. As a young boy I can remember the schoolhouse clock in my grandparents’ kitchen and the ticking sound it would make that echoed through the entire house.

Seth Thomas Adamantine time and strike mantel clock, circa 1913

We all have busy lives and despite my interest in clocks over the years it was not until the year 2000 that I started building my collection, first with a Seth Thomas Adamantine clock and later with more mantel clocks, wall clocks and finally a grandfather clock in 2012. My collection has expanded to include virtually every style of clock though my interest lies specifically with American and European wall and shelf clocks. As I write there are about 35 clocks ticking away in my home.

In my blog I stress that I am not a trained horologist but have accumulated enough knowledge over the years that I feel capable of addressing general clock issues

Clock repair came a little later. I began with general understanding of the cleaning and oiling of clock movements in order to keep my little collection running. As I acquired clock repair tools and equipment I progressed to servicing pinions, bushings, verge repairs, cleaning of mainsprings and case restoration.

In 2015 I decided to write a blog about collecting and servicing vintage and antique clocks. There are some excellent clock blogs but many are commercial sites or professional horologists selling their services. I decided to design a blog that would appeal to the amateur clock collector/repairer. In my blog I stress that I am not a trained horologist but have accumulated enough knowledge over the years that I feel capable of addressing general clock issues. Therefore, my blog is not aimed at the professional repairer or restoration expert but the individual looking for specific information about a certain clock, those who have a particular problem with their clock and finally those who have a general interest in clock collecting and repair.

Junghans Crispi wall clcok with compensating pendulum
Fully restored Junghans time and strike wall clock, circa 1899

Cleaned, bushings replaced and tested
Time and strike movement on a test stand after servicing

I publish an average of seven blog articles per month on a variety of clock topics. I appeal to a wide change of subjects; some articles have a philosophical perspective, some detail the challenges of working on a specific clock, some present simple repair techniques for the beginner, general maintenance tips as well as articles of general interest. As a history buff I try to include a background history or provenance of the specific clock I am profiling or information about its maker.

Using a micrometer to check pivot
A micrometer is used to size a bushing for an escape wheel pivot

Blogging has also allowed me to combine my other interests, that of photography and traveling. My wife and I have had many interesting adventures seeking out unique clocks for my collection.

Clocks we saw while on a visit to Spain and Portugal

In the early spring, my wife and I travelled to Portugal and Spain. We attended our daughter’s destination wedding in Sintra, Portugal and we decided to expand our stay, visit Spain and see the sights in Barcelona and Montserrat. Spain has always been on our bucket list and it did not disappoint.

Being a clock enthusiast I did a little research beforehand to find out if there were any clock museums along our travel route. Alas, we travelled to places that were very distant from the well know clock museums. Clocks in Europe were made in specific regions and that is where you will find clock museums. Here are a few clocks that I found in various places in Spain (Barcelona) and Portugal. I will let the photos tell the story.

Tall case clock in a cathedral
Tall case clock in a Barcelona cathedral

Little card on the side simply said "High box clock, school clock"
Little card on the side simply said “High box clock, school clock”, Barcelona

Marriage of movement and case found in a shop in Porto.
A marriage of movement and case found in a shop in Sintra, Portugal

Town clock in downtown Sintra, Portugal
Town clock in downtown Sintra, Portugal

Very ornate clock in poor condition, Pena Palace, Sintra, Portugal
A very ornate clock in poor condition, Pena Palace, Sintra, Portugal

Pena Palace, Sintra, Portugal
Pena Palace, Sintra, Portugal

Tivoli Hotel, downtown Sintra. Unknown tall-case clock
Tivoli Hotel, downtown Sintra. Unknown tall-case clock

The most ornate clcok is this working example at the Porto basilica
The most ornate clock I found is this working example at the Porto basilica

Unknown mantel clock, Tivoli Hotel, Sintra, Portugal
Unknown mantel clock, Tivoli Hotel, Sintra, Portugal

Unknown gallery clock. I could not find an opening on this clock. No arbor holes on the clock face.
Unknown gallery clock. I could not find an opening on this clock. No arbour holes on the clock face. Found on an estate in Sintra, Portugal

Flea market clock. Time and strike English or German clock, 1960s
Flea market clock. Time and strike English or German clock, the 1960s

Flea market clock. Time and strike French clock with matching candelabra
Flea market clock. Time and strike French clock with matching candelabra

Used goods store, time and strike wall clock, possibly French
Used goods store, time and strike wall clock, possibly French

I was not specifically looking for these clocks but as we visited churches, museums, shops and public places I photographed any I discovered in our travels.

Tick Talk Tuesday #13 – Mauthe wall clock circa 1960s

Tick-Talk Tuesday
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

Modern Mauthe wall clock circa 1970S
Modern Mauthe wall clock circa 1970S

DK writes, “I just received this clock.  I’m hoping you can help me identify it and maybe help me to fix it. I’d like to see if I can repair it if possible. Hope to hear from you.”

I write back, “Can you send a photo of your Mauthe clock with the door closed?”

An attractive wall clock by Mauthe
An attractive wall clock by Mauthe

DK, “I seemed to have fixed it so it is working, however the Lewis girl at the bottom of the pendulum I turn it to increase a time or decrease the time how does it go or work?”

Me, “Your Mauthe clock is from the 1960s. It is a time and strike and should run reliably for years. To adjust the rate, turn the thumbscrew at the bottom of the pendulum clockwise to speed the clock up or counterclockwise to slow it down.”

DK, “Thanks Rockin Ronnie. Does this clock have any value?”

Me, “Not especially. Depends on the market but perhaps upwards of 100US in top condition.”

DK, “Thanks Ron I kind of figured as much. Have yourself a good day and thank you for everything!”

Note: In 1970, Mauthe struggled for survival, and in 1975 the company was in receivership and forced to close in 1976.

Elisha Manross Steeple Clock – addressing spire issues and other things

Elisha Manross 30 hour steeple clock
Elisha Manross 30 hour steeple clock, as found

I am not a huge collector of steeple clocks but I was intrigued by one I found in an old barn. I bought 4 clocks as part of a barn find this past winter (2018). Two including this one are salvageable. The two others are for case and works parts only.

$5 for a clock is a real bargain. This antique American Elisha Manross 30 hour time and strike steeple clock is an interesting variant of the sharp Gothic steeple clock. It looks fairly plain today but it was a striking style for its time. The early Steeple clocks of the 1840s influenced the design of later steeple clocks which were produced in large numbers up to the end of the 19th century.

A unique feature is the 30 hour brass movement with 2 brass mainsprings. Brass mainsprings were used in American clocks between 1836 and 1850. When affordable steel mainsprings arrived the brass mainspring disappeared into history. This clock was made in the Elisha Manross factory in Bristol, Connecticut (USA) August of 1843. 30 hour movements are immediately recognizable because of the proximity of the winding holes to the centre cannon. Eight day movements, which are taller, would have much lower winding arbours.

The dial faces is in good shape with some losses
The dial face is in reasonably good shape with some losses on the edges and corners

The good and the bad

The good: the movement, coil gong and dial face are original as is the pendulum bob. The label is in very good condition for the age of the clock. The upper glass tablet is original and shows the waviness you would expect with visible imperfections. The movement works but needs a thorough cleaning. The movement looks good though I will know more once I disassemble it for cleaning.

The bad: the mahogany veneered case is in poor condition with nicks, scratches and gouges on the entire surface. The very tip of the left steeple is broken off. There is a large piece of veneer missing on the right side on the clock base but that piece was found inside the clock and later glued in place. The most critical issue is the missing right steeple and base. The lower tablet is missing. There would have been a Fenn or similar design. Clear glass has been installed in its place. It is also missing the minute hand.

This side piece of veneer was found inside the case but there is still a small section that needs veneer
This side piece of veneer was found inside the case glued in place but there is still a small section that needs veneering

Work to be done

My first task is to clean the case and determine how I should approach finishing the clock case. I decided not to strip the case because there is a certain patina I would like to preserve.

My goal is the have a running clock in presentable condition and that includes replacing the right steeple. Ordering the missing parts from a clock supply house would seem to be a simple solution but unfortunately these parts must be hand made. To address the steeple base and spire I had some decisions to make. I took careful measurements of the left steeple base, cut a piece of pine stock to the same dimensions and clad it in crotch mahogany.

Pine cut and test fit
Pine cut and test fit for right steeple base

A relatively simple task of veneering took three days as I had to veneer each side, clamp, wait till it dried and trim off the excess before tackling the next side. Hide glue was used for this project. Hide glue is appropriate because it is an organic adhesive and it is the type of glue that would have used at the time.

The steeple base is the middle block of wood
The steeple base is the middle block of wood

Sides and top are done, now to do the front
Sides and top are veneered, now the front

Once all sides were completed the spire was next. I have never made a finial before so this was a very interesting learning experience. The spire was somewhat more challenging since it involved patterning it off the left spire. As I discovered it is much harder than it looks. I do not have a wood lathe so my metal lathe had to do. I bought a set of wood lathe chisels at my local hardware store at a reasonable price though I discovered that they require sharpening prior to use.

Taig lathe with 1/4 hp motor
Taig lathe with 1/4 hp motor

The result was something closer than I expected. Not perfect but until I improve my skills this will do for now. Working with softwood is relatively easy but working with hardwood would be a much greater challenge would think.

Steeple and base but how to get rid of the wood grain!
This is the first application of red mahogany stain on the steeple but how to get rid of the distracting wood grain!

The grain in the spire is certainly distracting and it is something I did not anticipate. One more application of stain concealed some of the grain but it is still visible at certain angles. Will a clear coat over the stain bring me the result I am looking for? Hmm!

Second application of red mahogany stain
Second application of red mahogany stain, grain is disappearing

After thoroughly cleaning the case with Murphy’s soap and Orange Oil I applied a very thin coat of red mahogany stain on the entire case, left it on for only one minute and wiped off all the excess residue. Again, my aim was to preserve the original patina as much as possible but hide numerous scratches. The stain filled in the scratches and I am satisfied with the end result. With the addition of the right final base and spire, the clock now looks complete.

Now to address the spire one more time. I decided that Minwax Poly Wipe was not working very well.  The clear coat absorbed into the wood after two applications and still left a dull finish. I then selected a clear spar varnish and it finally gave me the results I was looking for.

The screws holding the movement were so loose they had to be replaced with bolts. The coil gong and base were cleaned and stripped of years of rust. I then oiled the movement, put the clock in beat and attached the dial face. The moon hands look good but are not original to the clock. While I have the hour hand the original needle type minute hand is long gone.

The clock is assembled and running
The clock is assembled and running

With the cased cleaned and with the addition of the right spire base and steeple the clock now looks presentable. Although I was able to make the spire on a metal lathe it it has certain limitations and I now see the value in using a wood lathe. I am also pleased that the movement is running but at some point it must be cleaned and properly serviced. At the moment there are just too many other projects standing in the way.

A great little project and a test of my veneering and woodworking skills.

I have good luck finding a great deal on a clock

Loss on the clock label

I seem to be one of those people who manage to find a great clock deal. I don’t think it takes a special talent but patience, research, and timing are three key elements in finding a bargain.

I often cruise the online for-sale sites for interesting clocks. In Canada, we have something called Kijiji. In the States Craig’s List is quite popular and I am sure other countries have something very similar.

What makes Kijiji (and similar sites) interesting and fun is that you can connect with people locally or in my case our province of Nova Scotia. There are a wide variety of sellers. Some know what they are selling and price items accordingly. Some have really no idea and either price items clearly for much more than they are worth or conversely for far less than their actual value.

It is nice to be able to meet the seller, find out the history of the clock, learn something about the seller, and their motivation for selling, negotiate a price, and bring the item home. There is no post office or courier service to “screw” things up. No “oh crap” sigh when you open the package. With online auction sites, you often get a “pig in a poke” which means that something is sold or bought without the buyer knowing its true nature or value, especially when buying without inspecting the item beforehand. This does not happen with Kijiji. You find the item advertised, connect with the seller several times electronically or personally if necessary, see the item beforehand, ask questions about it, inspect it for any immediate issues or potential problems and you have the choice to walk away if you are not completely satisfied. All transactions are cash with no pesky sales tax.

Clocks are interesting items to collect and prices are all over the map as you would expect. However, I have found a few gems in the last few years. Let me tell you about my latest experience.

A few weeks ago I saw this clock advertised on Kijiji (photo below). Now, this looks like any ordinary Gothic steeple clock but what grabbed my attention was the unique tablet inscription. The acid-etched glass tablet says “Cling to the Cross”, a religious expression not often found on this style of clock. I knew immediately that this was a very special Canadian-made clock.

Seller's photo
Seller’s photo

Why, because several months ago I watched a video presentation by Jim Connell. Jim Connell is well known in Canadian clock circles. According to the introductory remarks found at the aforementioned site “He has amassed a large collection of clocks of all types with an emphasis on those with a Canadian origin. As his collection and knowledge grew, Jim prepared and presented numerous articles, talks, and displays on Canadian clocks and their history.  He is the respected author of the Charlton Standard Catalogue of Canadian Clocks and he co-authored Early Canadian Timekeepers and The Canada and Hamilton Clock Companies with Jane Varkaris.”

In his presentation, he described this exact clock and mentioned in his presentation that there were very few copies left, a very rare Canadian clock indeed.

I wanted to confirm that this was the clock I thought it was and asked the seller to photograph the label. He did so and sent this to me.

Seller's photo of the label affixed on the back of the clock
Seller’s photo of the label affixed on the back of the clock

I attempted to negotiate a price. The seller wanted 100CDN and I offered 80CDN. He replied that he would not accept anything less than 100CDN. In the meantime, I checked with the curator of The Canadian Clock Museum to confirm its authenticity. Upon discovering that this was a Hamilton Clock Co. clock made between 1876 and 1880 I decided that, yes, this was a good find and in my email reply to the seller I said, “100CDN it is”.

It is what I would consider one of those happy win-win situations. The seller got more than he thought the clock was worth and I got a clock that is worth much more than I paid for it. My motivation, however, was not to celebrate a great deal at a great price but to acquire a piece of significant Canadian horological history at an affordable price.

Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple clock
Hamilton Clock Co. Gothic steeple clock
30-hour time and strike movement with clock company inscription on the bottom of the front plate
30-hour time and strike movement with company inscription on the bottom of the front plate

We met and settled the deal. I am now the owner of a Canadian-made 30-hour time-and-strike Hamilton Clock Co. Gothic steeple clock.

In a later blog article, I will profile this clock and describe my strategy to address some of its issues.

Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse ogee and splat clock with mirrored tablet

Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse ogee and splat clock

Daniel Pratt reverse ogee and splat clock
Daniel Pratt reverse ogee and splat clock with mirrored tablet

This Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse Ogee shelf clock was made in Reading, Massachusetts, c. 1832-38. It has a splat-top mahogany case with half (?) reverse Ogee moldings flanking the door, painted wooden Roman numeral dial and mirrored lower tablet.

Clocks, manufactured and warranted by Daniel Pratt Jr
Clocks, manufactured and warranted by Daniel Pratt Jr

The label inside states in part.

Clocks manufactured and warranted by Daniel Pratt Jr. Reading Mass, U.S. Sold in any quantities on reasonable terms

The label is a ink drawing of a clock merchants shop and is printed by Dickinson and Co. 52 Washington St. Boston.

Wooden movement, time and strike
Wooden movement, time and strike

Wooden Roman numeral dial
Wooden Roman numeral dial with missing grommet on right arbor hole

Daniel Pratt (1797-1871), Jr., clock-maker, banker, town clerk, legislator, lived in the town of Reading, Massachusetts, in the 1800s. Reading is a suburb twelve miles north of Boston. Pratt did not contribute much to clock-making and was regarded as an entrepreneur rather than an innovator. He made wooden movements in his plant, as well as wooden cases. The clocks they sold during the 1832-35 period were typically wooden movement, weight driven, 30 hour, wood-cased, “looking glass” shelf clocks.

This Pratt clock measures 28 inches high, 14 3/4 inches wide, and has a depth of 5 inches. It is covered with mahogany veneer over pine. The square dial is of painted wood, 9 inches wide by 8 1/2 inches tall, with Roman numerals with floral spandrels. The dial is in good condition for the age of the clock. This clock was produced during the heyday of wood movements which were eventually phased out when cheaper but more reliable brass movements were introduced after 1839.

The memory of this successful man is continued by the quiet, even beat of his many clocks which have survived to this day — truly a great honour indeed.

antiquevintageclock.com – a new name

Piecrust bezel

From this day onward the new domain for this site is antiquevintageclock.com.

I have been thinking about name change for some time. My reasons are fourfold, to increase viewership, make my site more accessible using search engines, gain more storage space for my photos and have more creative freedom in the design of the site.

In the months to come I hope you, the reader, will appreciate the changes as I offer more content and features.

There may be some growing pains for the first while as I experiment with new templates so I ask for a little patience as I make the new transition to an improved site.

My email address will continue to be ronjoiner@gmail.com although I will explore the benefits of aligning my email address with the site.

Let me know what you think.

My Forestville mantel clock looks like yours

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Forestville mantel clock
My Forestville mantel clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your  particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible response to your question

AM writes, “I am writing in hopes you can help me figure out how to safely set and wind my clock !

It looks pretty much identical to this one of yours I found online. Exactly same roman numerals. Forestville name in gold appliqué at top. GERMANY appliqué near the VI at bottom. Two key holes. Wing shaped box. Mine has darker brown wood glossy, and only one gold trim line. Same little feet. It has a silver colour key. I tentatively tried winding the left side clockwise, and it wound, but seemed tight. So I only wound it twice.  Scared to try the left side. Please let me know if you would – what each wind is for, and whether to go clockwise or counterclockwise. Thanks in advance for any clues you can give me.”

Roman numerals, Forestville name

Over winding a clock is a myth

My response, “Hi, These Forestville clocks have German movements. The movements are quite robust and will last for years. The left side is the strike side and the right side is the time side. You should be able to wind each side as tight as possible. Over winding a clock is a myth. If the clock does not run after you have wound each arbour to the limit, the springs are rusty and have seized the clock. However you should be able to safely wind each side several turns. The strike side will not function unless the time side is wound fully. You can get a feel for how the clock is wound. These clocks wind clockwise and the strike side might be a little tighter than the time side, I know mine is. The clock sounds like an old wristwatch because it has a hairspring or a floating balance wheel escapement not the usual pendulum ( I gather yours is the same). Anyway, do not be afraid of your clock. Wind it and enjoy it.

AM writes back and says, “Hello and thank-you for your reply. I took the plunge and wound each side about 4-5 X. No ticking as yet !  It must be seized at you said…Not sure what to do now cuz we live in the XXXXXXX and I doubt a clock expert nearby (within 300 km). Prince George is 3 hr drive west, and Grande Prairie Alberta 2.5 hr east. Will start asking around for sure. It is quite funky and reminds me of my Aunty Jane… so I will use as décor for the interim.”

My reply, “Open the access door. Locate the escapement at the top of the movement. If it is exposed give the wheel a little push. If it is in a plastic enclosure, tap on the plastic a few times. That might be enough to free the escapement. If it runs you have power through the clock. If it does not your power issue might be elsewhere i.e. seized springs, bent wheels etc. Unfortunately a repair would be far more than the clock is worth but that is a decision you will have to make.”

Hairspring escapement in my clock

AM managed to get the clock working but it will not strike despite plenty of whirring.

Balance wheel or floating balance escapement

Closer look at the floating balance escapement

AM says, “Well now I’m thinking maybe I can fix the chime myself ?  Particularly with your help.  So this one last attempt will show you how it sounds.  I also need to know:

  1. During the weekly wind, if I just do not wind the chime… will it stop the click and whirr without affecting the clock time?
  2. Here’s what I see at the back during non-chime time – one hammer is a ‘two in one’, and it was up, but the one at the back was down touching the rod.  So I tried lifting it, and realized that the little black metal stopper that holds the ‘two’ works well, but the front stopper wouldn’t hold the back hammer.  I gently bent that front black stopper (horrors? !) so it will hold it up. But still no chime.
  3. Then I decided to take a wee video of the strike during chime time.  At 11:00 that morning, this is what happened in the back of the clock:
  4. It seems to me by the length of whirring, that the chime is out of whack in that sense also.  Not sure tho how much whirr = one chime.”

I took a look at the video and the strike rods are way too high above the rods.

My reply, “There are three hammers. Your clock is not a chiming clock – it is a striking clock. A chiming clock makes a musical sound and typically the musical sound is the Westminster chime on the quarter hour. You have what is called a striking “Bim-bam” clock. The rear hammer hits first followed by the two front hammers to make that bim-bam sound. The hammers should be just above the strike rods. Yours are too high to strike the rods therefore you are not getting the sound of the strike. Lower the rods by slightly bending them past the rods to the side and bend them so that they are just barely above the rods leaving a gap of about 1/8 inch. They should now work as designed. I can only surmise that someone in the past bent the rods upwards to quiet the clock.”

AMs Forestville clock
AMs Forestville clock, a very attractive Art Deco clock

AM replies, “Ok!  Well that makes sense, and even the bending of the hammers.  I can hear and see my Uncle Bill … first swearing, then getting in there and bending those hammers!  He was dear soul really. Thanks for all your help”.

IIII or IV on a clock dial face? Why the difference

Clocks historically have numbers on the dial to help people accurately tell time and organize their daily activities. Early mechanical clocks were developed to standardize timekeeping. Adding numbers made it easier for people to read and interpret the time at a glance, particularly as public clocks were placed in town squares and churches for communal use.

Early clockmakers borrowed design elements from sundials, which often had marked divisions for hours. Numbered dials mirrored this system, making mechanical clocks intuitive for users transitioning from sundials.

Roman numerals were commonly used on early clock dials because they were familiar to people during the Middle Ages and Renaissance. Adding numbers also balanced the clock’s aesthetic appeal with its functional purpose.

So, let’s look at a specific difference concerning Roma Numerals. Some clocks with Roman numerals have ‘4’ as ‘IV,’ while most use ‘IIII‘. Why?

There is no definitive answer. There are a handful of competing theories and one of the following seven might just be the correct one.

Possible Scenarios

Theory 1: When Roman numerals were used by the Roman Empire, the name of the Romans’ supreme deity, Jupiter, was spelled as IVPPITER in Latin. Reluctant to put a god’s name on a sundial, IIII became the preferred representation of four.

9:04am - 100 years ago
The number IIII

Theory 2: IV, instead of IIII, which represents four didn’t become the standard until well after the fall of the Roman Empire. It’s likely, then, that IIII was used on sundials (and everywhere else) simply because that was accepted convention at the time, and not for fear of divine retribution.

Which do you prefer , IV or IIII?
Which do you prefer, IV or IIII?

In the years to follow every clock-maker had to decide whether to adopt IV because it was the new standard, or hang onto the traditional IIII.

Theory 3: IIII might have stuck around because it’s easily recognizable as four. IV involves a little math. it’s a simple subtraction operation. Though subtractive notations really caught on in the Middle Ages, the majority of people were not literate or numerate and IIII was simply easier to visualize. Subtraction involves conscious thought. IV and VI might also have been easily confused by the uneducated.

Kienzle World Clock with the four as IV

Theory 5: Using IIII may have also made work a little easier for certain clockmakers. If you’re making a clock where the numerals are cut from metal and affixed to the face, using IIII means you’ll need twenty I‘s, four V‘s, and four X‘s. That’s one mold with a V, five I‘s, and an X cast four times. With an IV, you’d need seventeen I’s, five V‘s, and four X‘s, requiring several molds in different configurations. Or, did they really think in those terms?

Clock face in good condition
Parlour clock with Roman Numerals

Theory 6: King Louis XIV of France preferred IIII over IV, perhaps for the same reasons Jupiter would not want two letters from his name on a sundial, and so ordered his clock-makers to use the former. Some later clock-makers followed the tradition, and others did not. Other monarchs might have felt the same way, and IIII was used also in areas where there was no king with an IV in his title to object to the subtractive notation.

Theory 7: Lastly, IIII creates more visual symmetry with VIII on the opposite side of the clock face than IV does. Using IIII also means that only I is seen in the first four hour markings, V is only seen in the next four markings, and X is seen only in the last four markings, creating radial symmetry.

The tradition of numbered dials persists today because of its practicality and historical significance, even as digital timekeeping has become the norm,

Which theory do you prefer?

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