Chauncey Jerome 30 hour ogee – servicing a #1.314 time and strike movement

Chauncey Jerome 30 hoir Ogee clock
Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee clock

I bought four clocks at an estate auction several weeks ago, this and three other Ogee clocks plus a parlour clock. This clock is no less interesting than the others but I was lucky enough to research its maker and date it fairly accurately. I wish I knew its provenance but nevertheless it is an excellent example and has been well cared for over the years.

It is a Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee weight driven time and strike clock. No-one can deny that Chauncey Jerome had made a historic contribution to the American clock industry in the 18th century when he substituted brass works for wooden works and was said to be “the greatest and most far-reaching contributor to the clock industry.” Although he made a fortune selling his clocks, and his business grew quickly his company failed in 1856.

Chauncey Jerome one-day movement type 1.314
Chauncey Jerome one-day movement type 1.314

The number 11 Ogee was the last of the Jerome clocks made in 1855. Mike Bailey, a Chauncey Jerome clock collector has an excellent blog in which he meticulously details and dates Jerome cases and movements. After researching his site I was able to determine that my clock is a number 11 Ogee made just before the Jerome bankruptcy, 1855. It has the Jerome patent 30 hour brass movement number 1.314 which is likely original to the case.

Type 1.314 movement, very dirty
Type 1.314 movement, very dirty

There were some issues with the movement as you would expect from a 156 year old clock. There were a number of punch marks here and there, but specifically on the first wheel and the second wheel time side. The movement had years of dirt. The repairs over the years are typical for this type of clock. Punching to close pivot holes would have been the preferred approach to repairing a worn clock. With the advent of the modern bushing machine repairs are much simpler.

Eight bushings were installed. The first wheel strike side, the second wheel strike side plus the fly, the lower gear off the centre cannon, rear plate and 3 bushings on the time side.

Punch marks on first wheel
Punch marks on first wheel, strike side

A piece came off the wood support for the movement when I disassembled the movement. Dry-rot perhaps. I had leftover hide glue from a previous project, applied the glue and clamped it for 24 hours.

broken movement support
Broken movement support

The retainer clip for the count wheel was riveted in placed and prevented me from taking it apart.

Retainer clip for count wheel riveted in place
Retainer clip for count wheel riveted in place, not nice!

Some were punched very close to the pivot hole as you can see in this next photo. I left that as-is and decided to take a second look in a year or two.

Looks like a large pivot hole but actally punched close to the hole
Looks like a large pivot hole but actually punched very close to the hole

After eight bushings were installed (4 in the front and 2 in the rear) and an ultrasonic cleaning, the parts are test fit to check the smooth running of the gears. The rope for the weights looked re-usable, they were not replaced. The suspension spring also looked to be in good shape. The crutch wire has had bending and twisting over the years but it was also re-usable.

Test fitting parts
Test fitting parts after cleaning
 30 hour movement servicing
30 hour movement servicing, oiled, movement in the case
C Jerome 30 hour movement testingin the case
C Jerome 30 hour movement testing in the case

Now to regulate the movement. The clock is ticking away nicely and in beat. There are always challenges setting the strike side and this movement is no exception. However, through trial and error the strike side is functioning as it should.

These are very simple clocks to service and a great movement to hone your clock repair skills.

Addressing an upper tablet replacement on a Seth Thomas column and cornice clock

This is a fine example of a Seth Thomas column and cornice clock with sleigh front made prior to 1867 and sold by the R.W. Paterson Company of Canada West. Both the lower and upper tablets appear to be original and are in very good condition. Unfortunately this antique American column and cornice time and strike Seth Thomas clock is not mine and if it were I would proudly display it.

My clock, though similar is missing its upper tablet and a few other items that I wish to address in stages.

Missing upper tablet
Missing upper tablet on an American Seth Thomas clock

This blog article concerns one aspect of the clock, it upper and lower tablets. The lower tablet appears to be original and shows a cluster of fruit. Not as stately or ornate as the one in the first photo but quite appropriate for this style of clock. A quick online search shows that there were an endless number of reverse tablet painting designs ranging from birds, flowers, pastoral scenes, stately structures, eagles, parrots, berries, flags, drapery, crests and the list goes on.

Because there is a missing top tablet, the clock does not look complete. The clear glass is certainly not correct. As is typical for most clocks this age, things go missing over the years.

To address the missing upper tablet there are a number of options to consider;

  • Do nothing,
  • Attempt to find a decent quality reverse painted set from the same period,
  • Try my hand at painting a new tablet,
  • Buy a photo reproduction set online
  • Find a complimentary design and reproduce it on my home photo printer.

Finding a decent quality reverse painted set from that era is quite difficult and a search would take a long time. I am no artist, so, painting a tablet is out of the question. Buying a reproduction set online is a possibility but how much am I prepared to spend on something I could potentially do myself. After analyzing the options my first thought was to explore the possibility of buying a reproduction set online.

A search on EBay revealed sellers who make reproductions of the original tablets. They are essentially a “replacement picture set” of the clock tablets. They are as one ad put, “Exact copies of a set of Seth Thomas 8 day “Column” model sleigh front clock ca. 1880. They are printed on photo stock and mounted on mat-board that when put behind antique glass they are very hard to tell from the original and make a Seth Thomas column clock with plain or damaged pictures into a super looking clock.” I have seen them offered from 15USD to 45USD + shipping.

Hmm, I can do this myself!

Following a search of my photo collection I found a cluster of hanging fruit that complimented the lower tablet. Using PaintShopPro X6 by Corel I chose a water-colour effect, removed some fruit, changed the orientation of the image, adjusted the back lighting to match the tone of the lower tablet, cloned the deleted areas and darkened the stem and black-berries.

The first photo shows the source photo converted to a water-colour. The next shows the adjustments made to the “water-colour”. The third shows my first attempt without back-light darkening.

Using my wide carriage Epson Stylus 1400, here is my first attempt.

First attempt, a little lighter than what I was looking for
First attempt, a little brighter than what I was looking for but close

Colour-matching the lower tablet is a real challenge. More adjustments are required to get the right effect but I think I am on the right track.

If you have any suggestions on how I can improve my workflow I would love to hear from you.

 

The challenges of restoring an Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock when the clock is rare and parts are hard to come by

I acquired four old clocks in a barn find. Two, a 30 hour Ogee and a mantel clock were totally unsalvageable although I managed to take off some veneer, case parts, a movement, boards, case hardware and a few other items.

Elisha Manross 30 hour steeple clock
Elisha Manross 30 hour steeple clock

Two others were worth a second look. One is an Elisha Manross 30 hour Gothic steeple clock that is worth restoring and the other, an Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock, the subject of this article.

There are a number of variations of the Ansonia Drop Extras and the one most sought after is the time, strike and calendar version. This is merely a time-only version and would fetch a price in the lower end of the range.

The largely intact label says,

Eight-day and thirty hour brass clocks, pendulum clocks, a variety of……., Also sole manufacturers of Jeweled Marines and eight-day gilt time pieces, Ansonia Brass and Copper….Ansonia Conn.

This clock was manufactured by the Ansonia Brass & Copper Co. around 1880. It is 26 inches high, 16 inches wide and 5 inches deep. It has a 16 inch round wood door bezel on a large 2 inch hinge. The drop section has serpentine sides and teardrop finials. The bottom access drop door opens downwards. Other Drop Extra access doors open to the side.

Much has been written about the Ansonia clock company. The company history can be found here. Formed in 1844, the Ansonia Clock Company went into receivership just before the stock market crash in 1929. The machinery and dies were sold to a Russian Company in 1931 thus ending the long reign of a glorious American clock manufacturer.

The Lima (Ohio) News gave this account in a March 12, 1931 news report:

“…there came an order to supply the Soviet union with men and machines to make watches and clocks, neither of which products ever had been manufactured there. Representatives of Amtorg went to the Ansonia Clock Company in Brooklyn and to the Duber Hampden Watch Company of Canton, Ohio, and bought them lock, stock and barrel. Then they hired most of the skilled employees of the plants to go to Russia and operate the familiar machines. These have been installed in a new, many-windowed building in Moscow, where Russian apprentices are beginning to master the trade.”

The time-only movement appears unusual because of the oversize 2nd and 3rd wheels. The dial glass is original as is the painted dial which is 11 1/2 inches wide.  The painted zinc dial has black Roman numerals, is flaked in some areas and requires stabilization. The flaking dial could use some work if only to arrest the deterioration of the finish. In the meantime the numerals have been touched up with black metal paint.

Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock
Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock
Siezed time-only movement
Seized time-only movement

The clock is in generally poor shape, what I would consider a diamond in the rough. A challenging project? Yes, because there are so many missing parts. Missing are the brass dial bezel, clock hands, pendulum bob, verge, drop access door with its hardware, right tear drop finial and 3 hinges. The finish is completely gone, down to the bare veneer. The veneer has some minor losses that are in hidden from view but for the most part the case is in good condition.

The movement was rusty and the wheels were seized. Obviously the clock had not been running in a number of years. After applying some WD-40 I managed to free the gears. In addition, two bent wheels (2nd and 3rd) had to be straightened. The rust was removed and the movement cleaned up surprisingly well. Only one bushing was required on the escape wheel bridge. The movement is presently installed in the clock and running well with the addition of a new verge, pendulum rod and bob.

There is nothing special about bringing the veneer back to life. After a thorough cleaning with Murphy’s soap I applied three coats of shellac lightly sanding after each coat. The photo shows the clock after the third application of shellac.

Ansonia backboard with partial label
Ansonia backboard with partial label & movement mount blocks

A section on the right side of the backboard was missing. I salvaged a piece of board from a donor Waterbury Ogee from about the same period and traced a pattern to fit the missing piece. Replacing the entire backboard might have been an option but I felt it necessary to preserve most of the label. Hide glue was used to bond the two boards which were then clamped for 24 hours. The gaps were filled with a combination of hide glue and sawdust one day later.

Ansonia movement in case
Ansonia movement running and installed in the case

Unfortunately, this is as far as I can go with this project. Unless the previous owner finds the missing pieces which is doubtful or I find another clock to marry the two together this clock will simply be a curiosity on a wall. In the meantime I have contacted some clock suppliers and have had no luck so far. My inquiries on clock oriented social media sites have also produced no results.

Rosewood veneered dial bezel in position

The movement has been running reliably for a full 8-day cycle and has run for the past 4 weeks. Despite not having the parts I require to complete the project there is a certain satisfaction in making a clock run that has not run in years.

Thoughts on where else to search?

 

Elisha Manross Steeple Clock – the early days of the American clock

I acquired four old clocks in a barn find. Two, a 30 hour ogee and a mantel clock were salvageable only that I was able to take veneer, case parts, one movement and a few pieces.

The two other clocks are worth preserving. Though it is missing some case parts one of them is an Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock. It is the subject of a future article.

Steeple clocks of the 1840s signaled the design of later steeple clocks
Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock
Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock

The fourth clock is an American Elisha Manross 30 hour steeple clock which is the subject of this article.

Elisha Manross 30 hour steeple clock
Elisha Manross 30 hour steeple clock on right

This is an interesting variant of the sharp Gothic steeple clock. These early Steeple clocks though simple in style, influenced the design of later steeple clocks.

Veneer could use some cleaning
Veneer could use some cleaning, right steeple is missing, door is off

The clock has accumulated years of dust and grime. The movement though dirty runs remarkably well. The case is scuffed, has a myriad of marks and scratches and one or two deeper gouges. This clock has seen its share of abuse and neglect over the years.

I took the access door off and found the bottom door pin to be original but the top pin has been replaced with a finishing nail. A piece of pinion wire was fashioned and glued in place. It is missing the right side steeple base and the spire. It is also missing the minute hand which appears to have been snapped off at some point and lost. Also missing is the bottom tablet with plain glass fixed in its place. The pendulum bob appears to be original as is the coil gong. The dial face has a nice patina and is in good condition with some losses. It has readable Roman numerals but covered with shellac or varnish at one point. The numerals have also been touched up.

Exotic woods were used to cover the pine case. Elisha Manross clocks were either clad in Rosewood veneer or Mahogany. The Mahogany veneer on this clock is much thicker than the veneers typically used today. Manross clocks are produced with the Mahogany veneer in a vertical orientation and Rosewood veneer in a horizontal orientation. Manross made two steeple clocks. One is 20″ high and 10″ wide, the other is 19 1/2 inches high by 9 1/2 inches wide. The larger case would have made for other labels but the smaller size (this is the smaller mahogany clock) was produced in the Manross factory.

Nice aged patine, numbers have been touched up
Nice aged patine, numbers have been touched up

On the back of the door, left side of the upper tablet is the inscription 8/43, not once but twice. My first thought was an inventory or part number but if this is the month and date the clock was made it would be consistent with the brass mainsprings on the movement which makers used between 1836 and 1850. The label on the clock is in remarkable condition for a 175+ year old clock. However, the date (8/43) is inconsistent with the label which was printed by Elihu Geer at his shop on 10 State Street, Hartford Conn. According to one source Elihu Geer operated the print shop at this location after 1850. Perhaps but it seems reasonable that the clock was made in 1843.

8/43 inscribed on the back door
8/43 inscribed on the back door

Although Elisha Manross had been active in Bristol clock-making since 1812 or earlier he shows in the Bristol tax records as making clocks from 1842-1851. His business was dissolved in 1854 and the factory was purchased in 1855 by E.N. Welch.

Well preserved label
Well preserved label

Brass springs were invented and first used in 1836 by Joseph Shaylor Ives. Brass for mainsprings was evidently cheaper and more accessible than steel in the mid 1830s and 1840s. Silas B. Terry developed steel springs for clock use in the Bristol area circa 1847, and as steel improved and became cheaper brass springs quickly disappeared. In the history of the American clock brass springs had a very short life. The brass springs on the movement have survived a very long time which is unusual since most clocks of this age have had replacement steel springs.

The movement will be cleaned up and the case will be reconditioned including the replacement of the right steeple and base. I do not foresee the clock as being a daily runner.

Have you brought an old antique back to life be it a clock or a piece of furniture? Leave a comment about your own experiences.

If clocks could tock – the stories they could tell

I wish I knew the stories of all of my clocks.

Antique and vintage clocks evoke a time when life was simpler than the hectic times we live in today. Those nostalgic times when the things we bought and cherished were living memories of people and places that are gone but not forgotten. Antique clocks should be passed down from one generation to the next. Judging from the online marketplaces unfortunately many are not handed from father to son at all as so many have left their original owners. Is sentimentality lost on this generation?

Two such clocks have a story

Not including the the nine clocks I have in my home office there are 35 clocks displayed throughout our home. It saddens me to think that for many of my clocks I know absolutely nothing about them though I wish they all could talk. What stories they could tell.

Two such clocks have a story.

One of my clocks survived the Halifax Explosion in 1917. I know this because the people I bought it from had the clock in their family for over 100 years. It was certainly not in the condition you see here. It was a box of parts and I imagine they felt they had held onto it long enough and it was time to let it go. After I restored the clock I called back the previous owner and told him what I had done with the clock and would I kindly send him a photo of it restored to its former glory. I did and heard nothing afterwards. Sellers remorse, perhaps. I often look at the clock and try to imagine that fateful day when it fell of the wall in a modest home in North Halifax on December 6, 1917.

Junghans Crispi wall clock
Junghans Crispi wall clock

Story number two. You have to feel something for some of the previous owners. This Ingraham Huron shelf clock (circa 1878) is a real gem and fairly rare, you just do not see it come up for sale very often. Some would call it a balloon clock. It was bought in a little village outside Bridgewater, Nova Scotia. My wife and I are about 2 hours away and we decided to make a trip out of getting the clock, having lunch nearby and doing a little shopping.

Do you know anyone who wants Jeff Gordon memorabilia?
Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site
Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site

We arrived at the sellers home, a modest nondescript bungalow. I was greeted at the door by an elderly couple. They had previously told me on the phone a day earlier that after consultation with their son they had decided on a fixed price for the clock and the price seemed very fair to us.

I asked how long they had the clock and the gentlemen who I would say was in his early seventies said that he could remember the clock in this grandmother’s home when he was quite young. He extended his hand palm down to about a meter from the floor and said, “I was this tall when I can first remember it in my grandmother’s home”. After a conversation with the couple I had discovered that they were parting ways, an amicable separation it seemed and the wife had decided to live in an apartment minutes away in Bridgewater. The husband was left with the home and his workshop in the back of the property. “He spends a lot of time out there anyway and besides, we need to get rid of stuff”. “Do you know anyone who wants Jeff Gordon memorabilia?” “No”, I said and left with the clock. It is sad that they had to part with such a memory but people change.

Seth Thomas column and cornice "Empire" style time and strike shelf clock
Seth Thomas column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike shelf clock

I guess sentimentality has a dollar value or people live with things so long that they eventually tire of having them. Deciding to get rid of things is about relieving yourself of all the stuff you’re hanging onto from past relationships and past memories. Secondly, our desire to hold onto piles and piles of old mementos can often be blamed on nostalgia. That’s because reminiscing about the past makes us feel good. It can lead to increased feelings of familial or social connectedness. If I have an old clock, looking at it can elicit positive emotions. Or, perhaps it was not an especially happy memory and getting rid of it expunges that memory.

I often wonder what will happen to my collection when I meet my fellow clock-makers in the sky. My wife knows that I have no real attachment to some of my clocks since I merely purchased them to learn how to repair them and to grow my hobby. Yes, you can have too many mantel clocks!

However, there are about ten clocks in my collection that I hope will be passed down to my kids. My four Arthur Pequegnats, two Vienna regulators, a Seth Thomas Empire style clock, my Sessions Beveled No. 2, my Ingraham Huron shelf clock and my Junghans Crispi wall clock. For some I appreciate their history and admire the folks who had them and for others they have become sentimental attachments because I spent so much time restoring them.

Pequegnat Canadian Time office clock

I think my kids will appreciate them.

 

Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee – a 156 year old American clock that is a tribute to the man himself

I bought four wonderful clocks at an estate auction several weeks ago, this and three other Ogee clocks plus a parlour clock. This clock is no less interesting than the other three but I was lucky enough to research its maker and date the manufacture to within a year or two.

Noble Jerome’s invention showed that with the one-day brass movement, clocks could be mass produced economically and in great quantities

I wish I knew its provenance, how many hands it passed through, where it has been, what homes it has been in and even its last owner. All that is a mystery to me, nonetheless this clock is an excellent example of the classic Ogee weight driven shelf clock and a well-cared-for time-keeper.

Chauncey Jerome 30 hoir Ogee clock
Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee clock with J.C. Brown house in lower tablet
Chauncey Jerome: The greatest and most far-reaching contributor to the clock industry

Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee weight driven time and strike clocks are not a rarity. Thousands upon thousands were made. However, no-one can deny Chauncey Jerome’s historic contribution to the American clock industry in the 18th century when he substituted brass works for wooden works. He was “the greatest and most far-reaching contributor to the clock industry.” Although he made his fortune selling his clocks and his business grew quickly his company eventually failed in 1856.

Chauncey Jerome (1793–1868) was one of many pioneer American clock-makers. Jerome began his career in Waterbury, Connecticut (USA), making dials for long-case clocks. Jerome learned what he could about clocks, particularly clock cases, and went to New Jersey to make seven-foot cases for clocks. In 1816 he went to work for Eli Terry making “Patent Shelf Clocks,” and learned how to make previously handmade cases using machinery. His venture into business for himself eventually led to making cases and trading them to Terry for wooden movements.

In 1822 Jerome moved his business to Bristol, Connecticut opening a small shop with his brother Noble, producing 30-hour and eight-day wooden clocks. By 1837 Jerome’s company was selling more clocks than any of his competitors. A one-day wood-cased clock with wood movement sold for six dollars and had helped put the company on the map. A year later his company was selling that same clock for four dollars. As profits began falling combined with a general malaise in the manufacturing sector, it was not long before Noble Jerome’s patented clockwork innovation, the 30 hour brass weight driven movement introduced in 1839 changed clock making in America. The design was proposed by Chauncey in response to the 1837 nationwide depression that closed many clock factories. Noble’s invention showed that with the one-day brass movement, clocks could be mass produced economically and in great quantities.

Jerome also made clocks according to what he termed the “systematic approach” where selected workers made one part of a clock while other workers simultaneously constructed other parts in the same factory, a precursor to the assembly line method of manufacture.

Coil gong
Coil gong, polished, incorrect position in this photo

In 1842 Jerome moved his clock-case manufacturing operation to St. John Street in New Haven, Connecticut. Three years later, following a fire that destroyed the Bristol plant, Jerome relocated the entire operation to Elm City. Enlarging the plant, the company soon became the largest industrial employer in the city, producing 150,000 clocks annually. In 1850 Jerome formed the Jerome Manufacturing Co. as a joint-stock company with Benedict & Burnham, brass manufacturers of Waterbury. In 1853 the company became known as the New Haven Clock Co., producing 444,000 clocks and timepieces annually. Jerome’s future should have been secure but in 1855 he bought out a failed Bridgeport clock company controlled by P.T. Barnum, (a good read, it is a very tangled story) which wiped him out financially, leaving the Jerome Manufacturing Co. bankrupt in 1856. Jerome never recovered from the loss. By his own admission, he was a better innovator and inventor than a businessman.

In the years following he traveled from town to town and took jobs where he could, often working for clock companies that had learned the business of clock making using Jerome’s inventions. Returning to New Haven near the end of his life, he died, penniless, in 1868 at age 74.

The ticking of a clock is music to me, and although many of my experiences as a business man have been trying and bitter, I have satisfaction of knowing that I have lived the life of an honest man, and have been of some use to my fellow men
Chauncey Jerome 1860

This the number 11 Ogee was the last of the Jerome clocks made no later than the fall of 1855 when Jerome Manufacturing Co. failed. Mike Bailey, a Chauncey Jerome clock collector has an excellent blog in which he meticulously details and dates Jerome cases and movements. After researching his site I was able to determine that my clock is a number 11 Ogee made just before the Jerome bankruptcy in 1855. It is the Jerome patent 30 hour brass movement number 1.314. The movement appears to be original to the case.

Chauncey Jerome one-day movement type 1.314
Chauncey Jerome one-day movement type 1.314, yes, very dirty

The clock has a zinc dial and an image of JC Brown’s house in the lower tablet. Jerome was the first to introduce the zinc dial. It might have originally had a mirrored lower tablet. However it now features the JC Brown’s home. The J.C. Brown home in Forestville was featured on the tablet of many of his (Brown) Ogee clocks and it is unclear why it is on this clock. From 1847-1855 Brown conducted business without partners as the Forestville Manufacturing Company or the Forestville Clock Manufactory.

Rear of zinc dial
Rear of zinc dial

On the back of the zinc dial are inscriptions that I can barely make out. It says 1860 April 9???  on the top of the dial and 1866, Feb 2 and UPO 477 on the bottom. I tried to enhance it as best I could. Could this dial be a later replacement?

Overall the veneer is in excellent condition though it has been covered at some point with a clear coat of varnish. The weights appear original with the strike side having the slightly lighter weight as one would expect. The pendulum bob is consistent with the age of the clock and the label is largely intact. This was the last label Jerome used before his company went bankrupt.

Label showing Benham Printer, 56 Orange Street, New Haven
Label showing Benham Printer, 55 Orange Street, New Haven at bottom center

The movement is not running reliably. It is very dirty and long overdue for a cleaning, plus, the movement has had some poor repairs over the years.

Much of the information for this post is from Chauncey Jerome’s autobiography entitled History of the American Clock Business for the Past 60 Years, a free copy which you can find here.

Next up is servicing the movement which I will cover in a separate post.

Crazy clock ads – needs guts

Red color wood, in nice shape, not working, needs guts. $5.

Maybe I’d get it just for the case!

Mauthe mantel or “buffet” clock – can you tell me more about the maker?

Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock
Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock similar to LL’s clock
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your  particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible response to your question

LL writes, “I just had my Mauthe 3-train Tambour mantel clock cleaned and repaired. This is the first I’ve heard it chime in decades! I know my brother bought in England in the eighties but that is all I know about it. Can you tell me any more about the maker?”

Mauthe would have called your mantel clock a “buffet clock”.

Mauthe clocks have an interesting history. In 1844 Friedrich Mauthe and his wife Marie founded a company in Schwenningen, Germany to produce watch parts. At the end of the 1860’s Mauthe began to produce their own wall clocks (and movements). Some have been produced by home-work by so called “Gewerblern”, others have been produced in a more “industrial” way.

The Mauthe sons Christian (1845-1909) and James (1847-1915) took over in 1876. In 1886 Mauthe began manufacturing its own spring mechanism.

Around 1900, alarm clocks, pendulum wall clocks, grandfather clocks, office clocks and so called “Buffet Uhren” “Buffet clocks” were offered. The number of employees at that time went up to about 1,100 people. In 1904 the 3rd generation took over (Eugene Schreiber (1877-1939) – son of Christian Mauthe, Dr. Fritz Mauthe (1875-1951) – son of Jacob and Mauthe Alfred (1879-1911) – son of Jacob Mauthe.

In 1925 Mauthe announced a new trademark. It shows a right-looking eagle with outstretched wings, holding in its talons a three-part round plate with the letters F, M and S. My Mauthe mantel clock is unmarked. Early in 1930 the company produced about 45.000 clocks per week (with 2000 employees). About 60% were produced for export markets, England for example was one of those export markets.

Mauthe mantel clock sitting atop a Stromberg Carlson console radio
Mauthe mantel clock sitting atop a Stromberg Carlson console radio

In the mid-1930’s Mauthe started to manufacture their first wrist watches, some were even supplied to the German Army (“Wehrmacht”).

From 1946 on Mauthe re-started with the production of wrist watches. Though largely successful during the post war years, sales began to decline and the company eventually declared bankruptcy closing in 1976.

These precision German movements keep very good time and are certainly worth keeping and repairing. Enjoy yours now that it chimes.

The art of veneering – Part III – staining and finishing

This is Part III and the final part of a three part series on my first venture into veneer repair on an antique clock. Prior to beginning this project I spent many hours researching veneer repair, watching YouTube videos and seeking advice from my knowledgeable colleagues at NAWCC.

A recent acquisition, this is an 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice time and strike shelf clock with sleigh front. It has a Plymouth (Hollow) lyre movement with a Thomaston Conn. label which means that the clock was made shortly before the incorporation of Thomaston in the early 1870s.

ST column and cornice , as found
ST column and cornice, as found
An example of veneer loss

I assessed this clock in Part I and described the steps in preparation for the veneer repair. In Part II I described the process of  applying veneer. Part III concerns the final finishing. Once the case work is complete I will focus my attention on servicing the movement, addressing the dial issues and replacing the clear glass with a floral pattern in the upper tablet.

The lighter coloured sections in the next photo are new veneer pieces. New veneer is found on the top of the cornice, the left cornice base, the right column support and sections of the bottom base.

Veneer repairs are complete
Veneer repairs (light areas) are complete

Finishing is the final phase of this project. In many respects this can be the most challenging phase of the project because once the hard work of applying veneer is complete the job means nothing if the new veneer does not match the old veneer. Although it can never be a perfect match the goal is to come as close as possible.

One finish seemed to stand out above the others

I conducted an experiment on leftover Brazilian Rosewood.

I selected three stains/finishes, Minwax Rosewood gel stain, Wipe-On Polyurethane satin clear coat and yellow shellac. I utilized various light sources to see the effect colour temperature had on the results and came to the conclusion that there was one finish that seemed to stand out above the others.

In the photo below there are three swatches on a piece of leftover veneer; Rosewood gel stain on the left, Wipe-On Polyurethane in the middle and on the right is yellow Shellac. Wipe-On Poly initially struck me as the best of the three; it is subtle while bringing out the character of the Brazilian Rosewood veneer while keeping that “aged” look but it is too muted. Rosewood gel is reddish and quite dark and looked very striking compared to the original Rosewood.

I concluded that yellow shellac was the best choice. Shellac darkens the veneer and accentuates the red tones nicely. Shellac would have been been the original finish when the clock was made and it is still the finish of choice today.

Comparing three stains
Comparing the three stains
Although veneering is a challenge, it is very rewarding work and I eagerly await my next project
New veneer above cornice, base of cornice is original though it looks like it was replaced
New veneer above cornice. The base of right cornice is original though it looks newer
Most of the base was replaced with new veneer
After two coats of shellac
After three coats of shellac, the case is complete
With dial and doors re-attached
With dial and doors re-attached, movement is out of the case at this stage

Although veneering is a challenge, it is very rewarding work and I eagerly awaiting my next veneering project.

Movement serviced and oiled
Lyre movement serviced and oiled

With the veneer repairs completed and the movement serviced there is still work to be done on this clock. I have decided that the gesso columns will stay as-is. Next is perfecting a tablet design for the access door to replace the clear glass, and finally, making a decision regarding the dial face; whether to leave as-is, find a suitable replacement or buy a new one from a clock supplier.

Seth Thomas column and cornice "Empire" style time and strike shelf clock
Seth Thomas column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike shelf clock

Lessons learned:

  • Allot a significant portion of time for the project, it is time-consuming and meticulous.
  • For an authentic repair hide glue must be used; avoid white or yellow carpenters glue though I would think there are rare times when it would be considered.
  • Hide glue:
    • must be a certain consistency to work properly. It should drip off the brush like honey. My hide glue was too thin at the start of the project.
    • will last a while in the fridge. Don’t cap the glue while it cools; condensation will hasten mold growth
  • Stay away from plastic based modern stains and finishes and go with shellac or any finish that would have been used at the time.
  • Some use filler to smooth the gaps between pieces of veneer, I did not use filler for this project; it is something I might consider next time.
  • A light sanding of the veneer is all you need, aggressive sanding will destroy the veneer (lesson learned).
  • Apply painters tape on the veneer before cutting; doing so eliminates ripping and tearing.
  • Use a sharp hobby knife
  • In future I would consider replacing larger sections rather than a patchwork of small pieces though that largely depends on how much veneer you have to work with.
  • Clamps are essential. Get various sizes of clamps and use wax paper between the clamp and the veneer, you will thank me!
  • Leave the area clamped for 24 hours. Although hide glue bonds quickly clamping for a day will ensure maximum adhesion.

This was a great project and I am confident that my next veneer project will be even better. Time, patience and perseverance are keys to a successful veneering project.

The art of veneering – Part II – veneer work

This is Part II of a three part series on my first venture into veneer repair on an antique clock. Prior to beginning this project I spent many hours researching veneer repair, watching YouTube videos and seeking advice from my knowledgeable colleagues at NAWCC.

This is an 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice time and strike shelf clock with sleigh front. It has a Plymouth Lyre movement with a Thomaston Conn. label. The clock was made in the early 1870s.

Part I explores the steps in preparation for veneer repair.

The focus of this, Part II, is the selection of the correct veneer, working with hide glue, as well as cutting, applying and trimming the veneer.

Although one is tempted to use readily available yellow or white carpenters glue the only authentic product to use is hide glue

The veneer

I am not an expert in wood finishes and determining the type of veneer was my first major task. To do this I had to rely on expertise to tell me that I had Rosewood veneer. Once I discovered the type of veneer, I had to determine the quantity and the specific repairs that are required for this clock. My research revealed that the veneer used at the time was Brazilian Rosewood. An exotic wood, Rosewood would have been used extensively by clock-makers of that era and it is the correct veneer for this project. A clock friend (thanks JC) sent me two 7 X 8 inch pieces of Rosewood veneer, more than enough for the job.

The very worst sections were the top and bottom of the case and the column bases as one would expect given wear and tear over the years. Most of the cornice veneer is in good shape as are the door sections, door surrounds and the sleighs just above the feet.

Hide glue

One is tempted to use readily available yellow or white carpenters glue but the only authentic adhesive for clock case applications is hide glue. Hide glue is the glue of choice and it would have been utilized at the time the clock was manufactured. I chose pearl hide glue which is a type of hide glue rated at 150g Bloom strength. It takes takes a little longer to gel and with the longer working time it is better for applications like this when you need time to fit, but where high strength is not absolutely essential.

If you have never worked with hide glue, it is best to start with a small batch. My first batch was larger than I needed and too thin. Simply put 2 tablespoons (30ml) of glue in a heat-resistant glass container, cover with 1 tablespoons (15ml) of cold water and let soak for about an hour or until the glue softens and becomes gelatinous. Less is more and I recommend making small quantities. For about 20CDN you can buy a supply that will last a long time.

Place the container with the gelatinous glue in a bath of water in a pot especially designed for hide glue or a double boiler which I found worked just as well. Heat to approximately 140°F (60°C) and maintain the temperature. A candy thermometer is ideal to keep the glue at an even temperature.

Home-made double boiler with temperature maintained on a hot plate

Tools

Clamps, weights, tweezers, wax paper, a sharp knife, a metal straight-edge, painter’s tape, a micrometer, sand paper, palm sander and whatever you choose to use as a double boiler complete the list of tools.

A micrometer is an indispensable tool for accurate measurements. Accurate measurements ensure a good fit, minimize the use of fillers and lessen waste.

A micrometer ensures an accurate cut

Cutting, trimming & clamping

Cutting veneer can be tricky. Veneer is thin, brittle and can easily tear. Veneer today is different than veneer used 100+ years ago, it is very thin. On some clocks you may need to double-up, that is layer the veneer to approach the height of the original veneer.

Cutting can be a challenge since you must follow the grain and those narrow strips can break very easily. Painters tape is a true friend since it prevents tearing and it is easily removed from the veneer prior to application.

Painters tape ensure a rip free cut
Painters tape ensure a rip free cut
Painters tape easily peels off
You will never have enough clamps

I chose to work one area at a time moving from the bottom of the case to the top. The next photos shows veneer sections glued and clamped into place. Clamps are essential for veneer repair but when clamps do not work other methods such as weights can be employed. You will never have enough clamps! Although a clamp need only be in place for a few hours, having it on for a 24 hours is best for maximum adhesion.

Clamping cornice veneer
Clamping cornice veneer
Door piece and corner base piece is clamped
Door piece and corner base piece is clamped

The upper left cornice presented a unique challenge. A section was missing just above the cornice. Fashioned out of softwood it was glued in place.

A piece of pine was cut to fit
A piece of pine was cut to fit
strip of veneer applied
Strip of veneer glued in place;  prior to trimming and sanding

In this photo the piece for the curved part of the veneer is applied. The top area of the front cornice is now ready for staining and finishing.

Small angular cornice piece on left is glued in place
Top section almost complete and ready for staining
Top section is almost complete except for a left side cornice section (not visible in this shot)
As with any other project there will always be a slight colour variance as one would expect over the course of a century or more but the goal is to come as close to the original finish as possible

As mentioned the worst areas were the very top and very bottom of the case, expected after years of wear and tear. Another area which had veneer loss were the column bases. When possible I used old veneer to repair small areas but I found it very brittle and hard to work with. From my research I discovered that there are methods of softening old veneer but that can wait until the next project.

Right column base
Right column base, prior to sanding and trimming

After many hours the veneer work is now complete The next step is colour matching the new to the existing veneer. As you can see in the following photo the chip held by green tape shows that Rosewood Minwax Gel stain is a close match to the older veneer. My experimentation did not end. Part III explores other finishing options.

As with any other project such as this there will always be a slight colour variance as one would expect over the course of a century or more. The goal is to be as close as possible to the original finish.

Colour matching test: the green tape is holding a chip that has one coat of Rosewood stain

Now that the veneer work has been applied the next and final stage is finishing. Stay tuned for Part III in a few days time.

The art of veneering – Part I – general assessment and the work to be done

This is Part I of a three part series on my first venture with veneer repair on an antique clock. Prior to beginning this project I spent many hours researching veneer repair, watching YouTube videos and seeking advice from my knowledgeable colleagues at NAWCC.

Repairing veneer on a clock case is inevitable. As much as I love old clocks I will eventually purchase clocks that need a little TLC in the case department. This is that day. Collecting and repairing clocks is not only about cleaning and servicing the movement but the care and repair of clock cases. Aesthetics are equally important in clock work. A clock not only must run as it should but it must be appealing as well. Many of the clocks in my collection are in excellent condition and have required very little case restoration, nothing more than a touch up here and there. I have avoided clocks that need too much work. For example this 30-hour Waterbury Ogee required extensive movement repairs but the clock case was in exceptional condition.

Waterbury OG clock
The veneer on this Waterbury 30 hour Ogee is in excellent condition
The Seth Thomas case is in generally poor shape, has some crude repairs along with many corner chips and missing veneer sections here and there

One of my latest clocks offered me my first opportunity to learn the art of veneering. I really wanted this 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice time and strike shelf clock and I was willing to overlook the veneer issues.

The clock is from the American Empire period which defined the early and mid nineteenth century design movement in American architecture. It has a Plymouth lyre movement with a Thomaston Conn. label. It has the two original 8.5 lb weights and pendulum bob. The lower tablet is original but the upper tablet which would have had a complimentary design is missing and replaced by clear glass. The dial is original having been introduced in the late Plymouth Hollow era circa 1862 up to about 1879 according to this site. The clock was made between 1875 when Thomaston was incorporated to 1879.

The case was intact save for one trim missing piece on the top section of the left cornice. There have been a number of crude repairs over the years which made the restoration somewhat frustrating but the veneer work was certainly within the limits of my capabilities.

Seth Thomas 8-day column and cornice with sleigh feet
Seth Thomas 8-day column and cornice with sleigh feet
Plymouth ST 6-day lyre movement
Plymouth ST 8-day lyre movement
Cornice trim piece
Cornice trim piece made from pine
New piece to replacing missing top section
New pine piece replaces missing section

The case is in relatively good shape but has some crude repairs along with many corner chips, missing veneer pieces here and there over the entire case save for most of the front cornice veneer and the sleighs which have stood up very well. The gesso columns have some finish loss but they will be left as is. The dial face has loss on the corners, barely visible floral designs on each corner, loss around the chapter ring and a large area of missing paint on the lower left bottom. There are three options for the dial face; a replacement dial, a repaint or leave as-is though this is a decision to be made at a future date. The clock did not come with hands but I have a spare set of Ogee hands that are appropriate for this clock.

Structurally the case is sound with no loose or moving parts save for a left side cornice which has let go and held on loosely by a small screw. The back panel looks secure though Robertson screws were used to re-attach it, a later repair since Robertson screws were not invented until 1908.

Dial in generally poor condition
Dial in generally poor condition
Loss of veneer on the cornice
Loss of veneer on the cornice
Different angle of the same cornice
Another view of the same cornice showing a poor attempt at a repair

The photos show that a previous owner tried unsuccessfully to hide the damaged veneer by applying a “matching” paint. I found wood filler beneath the paint which was used to raise the painted area to the level of the veneer. An appalling attempt at a repair.

Chipped veneer below sleigh foot
Chipped veneer below sleigh foot
Closer view of left foot
Closer view of left foot with veneer chipped off

The bottom left foot had corner veneer damage as one would expect after years of wear and abuse. On the left edge of the foot you can see the same dark paint used to hide the cornice damage.

Having reviewed the work to be done it is now time to move to the next step in the restoration of this clock case.

The art of veneering is a steep learning curve

The art of veneering is a steep learning curve. Part of that requires acquiring new skill-sets and acquiring an understanding of protein adhesives and finishes.

Part II, in one weeks time, will describe the steps in the application of veneer, trimming and sanding. Part III will detail the final finishing.

Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe mantel clock

Canadian clock collectors are passionate about Arthur Pequegnat clocks. In private sales and online for-sale sites most sellers are knowledgeable enough to know that they are very desirable. A Pequegnat will sell for many times more than a comparable mantel clock, that is, in Canada.

Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe mantel clock
Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe model mantel clock

 

The Arthur Pequegnat clock company had an illustrious albeit short history

The Simcoe is my fourth Arthur Pequegnat clock. It is very similar in dimensions and style to the Jewel. Whereas the Jewel is basically a unadorned box the Simcoe has a piecrust dial bezel, claw feet on each corner and lions head handles on each side. It has a coil gong for the hour strike and a bell for the half-hour passing strike.

To collectors it is referred to as a”Berlin” clock. Although it is impossible to date Pequegnat clocks precisely the name Berlin distinguishes clocks made before 1917 and those made after and up to 1941 when the factory finally shut its doors. Clocks made prior to 1917 were inscribed “Berlin”, Ontario on the dial face since Kitchener was known as Berlin until midway through World War I. From 1854 until 1912 it was the town of Berlin and City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916. Because the name Berlin had a negative association with the war against Germany the city administration chose the name Kitchener. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario (Canada).

Time and strike movement with steel plates
Time and strike movement with steel plates, a common feature with Pequegnat clocks

The Arthur Pequegnat clock company had an illustrious albeit short history. Arthur Pequegnat, a watchmaker by training, was born in Switzerland in 1851. Arthur immigrated to Berlin, Ontario Canada in 1874 with his wife, parents, brothers and sisters; a grand total of 18 family members.

Arthur Pequegnat clocks such as a simple mantel clock you see here can command hundred of dollars in Canada

By the late 1870’s Arthur was operating a jewelry store and watch repair in Southern Ontario. By the middle 1880’s Arthur and his brother Paul were operating a shop in Berlin, Ontario. After ten years the brothers went their separate ways, both operating successful jewelry shops in Southern Ontario.

In 1897 Arthur expanded his Berlin jewelry shop to include the manufacture of Bicycles. However, by 1904, with the decrease in the demand for Bicycles, Arthur began to re-focus on the clock industry, by manufacturing his own clock movements at his Berlin Bicycle Manufacturing plant. Arthur obviously visualized a profit in clock making as many clocks at the time were imported from the United States. At first the wooden clock cases were made by local furniture makers, however in time he manufactured his own clock cases. Although the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company was widely regarded as the only true Canadian clock company, lesser known companies such as the Hamilton Clock Company and the Canada Clock Company, though not as successful, predated it.

The Simcoe is a relatively nondescript clock. I passed by it in the antique store without realizing that it was a Pequegnat. My wife spotted it and I returned to take a second look. Sure enough, a Pequegnat!

The yellow oak case is in very good condition with one or two small scratches and a chip just above the top of the bezel. The dial pan has had an ugly repair, there are two brass tabs at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock protruding though the front of the dial.

Piecrust bezel
Piecrust bezel

The dial face has some crackling but is otherwise in good condition. The piecrust bezel is in very nice shape as are the claw feet and lions heads.

Lions head on case side
Lions head on case side

The movement looks very clean with little evidence of wear. There is an inscription on the back dated Jan 10, 1970. It was likely serviced on that date. In any event it does not appear to have had much running since then. Unfortunately, there is no label.

Ornate front feet
Ornate front feet

The movement was taken out of its case, inspected for wear and found to be in very good condition. The movement was oiled, returned it to its case, the  beat was set and it is running strongly. The clock will be inspected in one years time to determine if servicing is required.

What! How does that work again??

This weeks goodwill find. It was 10.00 but it had a blue sticker on blue tag day so it cost 5.00
 
Unknown mantel clock
Unknown mantel clock

Clock owner posted his excellent find on a popular social media site. Here is the conversation.

  • Person 1, “ Can’t lose at that price. Hermle movement I presume.”
  • Clock owner, “Yes with a quartz battery operated time train. The gong and chime are wind up”.
  • Person 2, “ Cool. What do you mean ?? Pic of movement ?”
  • Person 3, “Yes, how does that work? very curious.”

No answer from clock owner and no photos of movement but there are two arbour holes.

In defense of the seller it could be electro-mechanical as Hermle made a few such clocks in the 1950-60s. Any thoughts or ideas? I think it has been converted.

Kids cannot tell the time on an analogue clock

In my past life I was a community college instructor. My students ranged in age from age 20 and beyond but most were around the early 20s.

For years I had an analogue clock just above my office door. I often met with students but when I was pressed for time (not meaning to be rude) I would casually glance at the clock over the office door rather than look at my wristwatch. One day I asked a student what time we should meet again. They said, “well, what time is it now?” I said, the clock is right there, pointing to my office clock. They looked at it quizzically and said, “I can’t tell the time from that”, “I never learned”. What I heard hit me like a ton of bricks and this was a very bright student.

Baby Ben alarm clock with second hand
The big hand is on the left
The biggest difference between the Millennials and their predecessors is in how they view the world

We talked.

  • Me: Where is the small hand pointing?
  • Them: What do you mean, small hand?
  • Me: I pointed out the difference between the long and the short hand, the long indicating the minutes and the short, the hours.
  • Them: Between 3 and 4.
  • Me: So that means it is 3 something. Where is the long hand pointing?
  • Them: On the 6.
  • Me: What’s 5 times 6?
  • Them: 30.
  • Me: So it’s 3:30. Simple.
  • Them: Oh!

Are smart phones destroying our present generation? Is the digital age having a deleterious effect on our young people? Many scholarly articles and vigorous debate attempt to explore how the present generation thinks and as you would expect there are many theories.

It’s no wonder that analogue mechanical clocks are hitting their lowest price levels in years

As a community college instructor I should have been aware of generational differences and the impact that smart phones and the digital world have had on our present generation. I was making assumptions that how we learned way back when was very much like how young people learn today. Boy, was I wrong! The biggest difference between the Millennials and their immediate predecessors and even my generation is in how they view the world; young people today differ from previous generations not just in their views but in how they perceive the world around them as sound-bytes, fleeting images and instant messages. The experiences they have every day are radically different from my generation.

Winding arbor above the six
The little hand is between the twelve and the one

Time for them takes on a different dimension. Time is at the same time important yet unimportant. Time for young people is not measured in imprecise phrases like “about a quarter to”. It has a certain curious precision that is at odds with my generation (1950s and 1960s). What time is it? To them the time is precisely “seven thirteen”, not “half past” or ” a quarter past”. And don’t get me going on fractions!

In the following months all the clocks on the college campus were replaced with digital versions. One day I had a conversation with the facilities manager and he said, “we took them all down because the students can’t read them”. It brought me back to my conversation with the student and I completely understood.

I collect antique analogue clocks and it makes me sad there there is a generation, and perhaps future generations going forward who will not appreciate the beauty and utility of the that “old fashioned” analogue clock. Will these clocks be lost to a generation who feel that they are completely irrelevant? I hope not!

It’s no wonder that analogue mechanical clocks are hitting their lowest price levels in years. Case in point. I bought an circa 1835 Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse column and splat 30 hour clock at an auction recently and paid just 30CDN (24USD).

Daniel Pratt reverse ogee and splat clock
Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse ogee and splat 30-hour clock, bought at recent auction

To this generation analogue clocks (and antique clocks for that matter) are meaningless, unnecessary and pointless.

But to us old folks they continue to have a certain charm that cannot be explained, well, to young people, anyway!

What style of clock do I have?

Clocks have been more than just timekeepers throughout history; they are reflections of art, culture, and technological innovation. Whether for practical use or decorative appeal, clock styles have evolved to match the tastes, craftsmanship, and technologies of their times. Here’s a look at some of the most iconic and varied clock styles.

The clock is an instrument designed to keep and indicate time. It is one of the oldest human inventions. The clock has evolved through the ages from sundials in ancient times to early tower clocks of the 14th century weight-driven clocks and finally spring-driven clocks from the 1840s to the 1970s.

The world of mechanical clocks encompasses a wide variety of styles, and distinguishing between them can often be confusing—such as understanding the difference between a shelf clock and a mantel clock. In this article, I’ll navigate through these terms and highlight the most common styles or types, using examples from my own clock collection to illustrate them.

Mantel Clock

Many auction sites and even professional websites use the word mantle. The correct terminology is “mantel”. A mantle is a shawl or coat worn by women, an important role passed on from one person to another or the earth’s crust. A mantel is the top framing of a fireplace or a shelf above a fireplace opening.

A mantel clock is designed to fit on top of a fireplace or shelf. A mantel clock can be time only, time and strike, or a chiming clock. Generally, if there are 2 winding arbours it is a time and strike clock, if the clock has 3 winding arbours is it a chiming clock that is, it will play a tune on the quarter hours, the most common being the Westminster chime.

Mantel clocks might also be referred to as shelf clocks or buffet clocks.

Kitchen Clock

Arthur Pequegnat kichen clock
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock

Kitchen clocks are often referred to as gingerbread clocks or parlour clocks. At times, it can be difficult to differentiate between a kitchen clock and a parlour clock. Gingerbread clocks are distinctive because their designs are typically created by steam-pressing the wooden front face. However, some clocks, like the one above, are made using a powered cutting saw but are still classified as kitchen clocks. Additionally, some of these clocks included alarm mechanisms. The terms gingerbread, kitchen, and parlour are often used interchangeably.

Another type of kitchen clock is shown below. This is an 8-day time-only delft wall clock made by Forestville.

Delft Clock from Forestville
Delft Clock from Forestville
E. N. Welsh Whittier model
E. N. Welch Whittier model

A parlour clock is generally considered more ornate than a kitchen clock, although it may still be referred to as a kitchen clock. It is placed in front hallways, entryways, and so on. The designs are always cut and there may be finials, a mercury-filled pendulum or very ornate design, garish trim pieces, and a decorative tablet.

Vienna Regulator

Gustav Becker two-weight Vienna regulator

There are many styles but most are of the single-weight or two-weight variety. The definition of a Vienna regulator is always open to debate but the consensus among collectors is that they are weight-driven, made in Austria/Germany, ornate in design, have porcelain dials, decorative crowns, large pendulums, and finials on the top and bottom.

The broad definition of Vienna Regulator includes those that are spring-driven. Though not defined as “regulators” it is acceptable among collectors to refer to them as a Vienna style.

Cottage Clock

Canada Clock Co Hamilton Cottage Extra
Canada Clock Co Hamilton Cottage Extra

Sometimes called a mantel clock or a shelf clock, they are usually diminutive in size to occupy a smaller space. They are found in bedrooms and kitchens and are sturdily built since they are often designed to be portable. They come in time only, time and strike, or may have an alarm function.

Carriage Clock

French Carriage Clock
French Carriage Clock

Carriage clocks are portable and were very popular around the turn of the 20th century. French-made carriage clocks are more collectible and fetch generally higher prices although American ones can be quite desirable. Carriage clocks are designed to be portable and are time-only but some are time and strike (with a repeater function) while others may have an alarm function.

Crystal Regulator

Ansonia Crystal Regulator

Crystal Regulator clocks are identified by a brass case with 4 crystals or glass panels. Porcelain dials, Roman or Arabic numerals, ornate in design but sometimes quite garish. Most are 10-12 inches in height though some are smaller. Makers are American and French though French crystal regulators are called four-glass clocks and tend to have higher value. Distinctive by their mercury or faux mercury pendulums. Some have visible Brocot escapements and the time and strike movements are always visible.

Cuckoo Clock

Cuckoo clock
Cuckoo clock

These clocks are pendulum-regulated and make an automated sound like a cuckoo when it strikes the hours. Some can be very intricate with several animated characters. Desirable ones are antiques from the Black Forest region of Germany. Modern ones are generally frustrating to repair, cheaply built, and are poor timekeepers.

Lantern Clock

Converted lantern clock
Converted lantern clock

A lantern clock is a type of antique weight-driven wall clock, shaped like a lantern. They were the first type of clock widely used in private homes. They probably originated before 1500 but only became common after 1600 and in Britain, around 1620. They became obsolete in the 19th century. The one pictured above has been converted into a fusee movement.

Alarm Clock

Baby Ben alarm clock with second hand
Baby Ben alarm clock with seconds hand

Alarm clocks are wound once per day and designed to do two things, wake you and display the time. They are cheap, and are average timekeepers but have long-lasting and reliable movements.

Desk Clock

Kienzle World Time clock
Kienzle World Time clock

These sat on fancy office desks or credenzas in office locations. They are either time-only or time-and-strike. Most were time-only to minimize distractions in the office environment. Some are very attractive and have unique designs and are more decorative than utilitarian. This one above is called a World Time Clock by Kienzle.

Wall Clock

Box clock
German Mauthe Box clock

A wall clock is broadly defined as any clock designed to be hung on a wall, making it a practical and visible timekeeping solution. Wall clocks come in various styles, from simple and functional designs to highly decorative pieces. This one by Mauthe is often described as a German “box” clock which became popular after the First World War and made into the 1940s.

Schoolhouse Clock

Ansonia clock project is complete
Ansonia schoolhouse clock

They are known as schoolhouse clocks because they hung in many schoolrooms in North America. Usually distinctive by their octagon shape and short or long drop feature with a glass door displaying a swinging pendulum. Many thousands were made; they had cheap mass-produced softwood cases and robust movements. Most were time-only though some were time and strike and others even included a calendar function.

When they were marketed years ago they were not called “schoolhouse clocks” but rather, clocks made for the schoolroom.

Novelty Clock

Chairman Mao Zetong waving as the clock ticks
Chairman Mao Zetong waving as the clock ticks

These clocks are designed for the tourist trade with interesting features. In the case of the above clock, a smiling Mao Zedong has his little red book in hand and is waving “to the masses” as the clock ticks.

Ogee Clock

Waterbury OG clock
Waterbury OG clock

It is so-called because of the curved molded wood case. It might also be referred to as an OG clock. The design originated in the United States in the 1830s, distinguished by a case (usually pine) the front outer edges of which are curved into an S-shape (Ogee). This shape is formed by the union of a convex and a concave line. A mass-produced variant of the shelf clock, the Ogee clock typically stands about 30 inches (75 cm) high and is usually weight-driven. The movements were generally made of brass (earlier ones were made of wood) and ran for 30 hours or eight days. This is a 30-hour weight-driven version from the 1870s.

Tall Case Clock

Ridgeway Hamilton Country, Westminster chime
Ridgeway Hamilton Country, Westminster chime

Tall case clocks are known by various names depending on the region. They are referred to as tall-case clocks in American terminology, long-case clocks in British terminology, hall clocks in Canada, and sometimes as floor clocks. However, the most commonly used term is “grandfather clock.”

They are usually weight-driven, with the weights on chains or cables, and are distinctive by their obvious height. They are always 6 feet or over but can be as high as 8 feet high (1.8 to 2.4 meters). They often feature elaborately carved ornamentation on the hood (or bonnet), the frames, the throat, and the dial or clock face. Older ones have 30-hour movements but all modern grandfather clocks run on an 8-day cycle.

Smaller clocks are called grandmother and granddaughter clocks. They are under 6 feet.

Anniversary Clock

Kundo standard size 400 day clock
Kundo standard size 400-day clock

These clocks are also called torsion clocks or 400-day clocks. 400-day clocks are torsion driven having a long suspension spring to which a weight oscillates back and forth. Typically these clocks operate at 8 beats per minute and run for long cycles on a single wind, up to 400 days. These clocks were popular as wedding gifts or gifts to mark special occasions. They are relatively simple to repair but can be finicky to set up. The newer quartz clocks are very accurate but do not replace the charm and curiosity of the older mechanical ones.

Some might call them purely decorative.

Tower Clock

Tower clock
Tower clock in Holguin, Cuba

In the early 14th century large mechanical clocks began to appear in the towers of Italian cities. There is no record of any working models preceding these public clocks that were weight-driven and regulated by verge-and-foliot escapements. They are referred to as Turret clocks in the UK.

In conclusion, while there are sub-categories for some of the clocks described above, this overview provides a general understanding of the commonly used terms. Having this knowledge can be especially helpful when shopping for a special gift or identifying the style of clock you may have in your possession.

What and the shipping is how much?

Look at the shipping cost
Look at the shipping cost

Okay, there are 9 hours left on the bid for this Vienna striking clock and it is at 104GPB (178CDN) so it could go a lot higher. But 257CDN for shipping!!! Factor in the exorbitant shipping cost and import duties (~40CDN) you are now looking at close to 300CDN + the clock. I suppose as a seller you gotta make your money somehow!

New Haven Ogee clock – attractive but not without issues

Ogee New Haven clock
Mini Ogee by New Haven, the gaps in the door indicate that the front was once veneered and later stripped

This spring driven 30 hour New Haven Ogee clock is a loud ticker and rapid striker so distinctive that I can hear the ticking outside the room it is in like a mischievous puppy who wants to remind you where it is.

Judging from other New Haven clocks I have researched from this period, 1875 seems to be the approximate date of manufacture. The case measures 18 1/2 by 11 3/4 inches (47cm X 30cm) and the movement measures 3 1/2 by 5 inches (9cm X 12.7cm); a small ogee styled clock some would call a mini.

The clock is a mere reflection of its former self but not unattractive

The New Haven clock Co. has had a long and illustrious history. In 1853 the Haven Clock Company was founded in New Haven, Connecticut by Hiram Camp (1811‑1892) and other clock-makers. The company’s mission was to mass produce inexpensive brass clock movements for use in clocks. In April, 1856 The New Haven Clock Company bought out a competitor’s company, the Jerome Clock Company. They moved their production to the former Jerome factory and New Haven began making clocks under their own trademark. In 1870 some of New Haven’s clocks were marketed under the Jerome & Co. brand.

In 1885 the company stopped selling clocks other than their own New Haven brand. In 1890 the company developed serious financial problems and efforts were made to keep it solvent until 1897 at which time the company emerged after reorganization. In 1902 Walter Chauncey Camp (1859-1925) began to turn the company around. In 1923 Walter Camp stepped down as head of the company and is succeeded by Edwin P. Root.

In 1929 Richard H. Whitehead replaced Root as president of the company but New Haven again faced financial difficulties compounded by the Great Depression in November, 1929. Whitehead was able to keep the company afloat during these troubled times and the firm regained profitability. From 1943 to 1945 the company turned to the war effort, producing products almost exclusively for military use. In March of 1946 The New Haven Clock and Watch Company became the new name of the firm after it reorganized once again. It returns to what it did best before the War, making clocks and watches.

The 1946 reorganization eventually leaves the company vulnerable to foreign investors and it lost control to a consortium of Swiss watchmakers. The man who had successfully shepherded the company through the hard times of the Depression years, resigned as president. In 1956 the New Haven Clock and Watch Company filed Chapter 10 bankruptcy in a U.S. court. Its fortunes have declined precipitously since Whitehead’s departure and it never recovered. In 1960 the company went out of business and the production lines closed. The facilities were sold through a combination of public auction and private negotiation in March of 1960.

Coiled gong - a replacement?
Coiled gong – a replacement from an E. N. Welch or a Gilbert.

This 30 hour New Haven Ogee looks good from a distance but closer inspection reveals a number notable issues. The movement appears original to the case and the case is in fair condition having been reconditioned at one time. Although the sides of the clock are veneered, the veneer on the front has been stripped off presumably because there was too much loss/damage. There is also some veneer loss on the top right side. Crude chisel marks on the left front indicate that the veneer in that area might have been more difficult to strip off. Unfortunate, but I have no intention of re-veneering the front. From a distance it still looks good and the casual observer will hardly know the difference.

The coil gong is a replacement and is in a slightly different location than the original gong judging from screw holes to the right. I can only surmise that the original gong somehow broke. This gong is probably from an E. N. Welch or a Gilbert.

New Haven 30 hour movement
New Haven 30 hour movement, back plate

30 hour movement - front plate
30 hour movement – front plate showing factory installed oil cups

There are oil sinks on the front but not the back plate. The sinks on the front plate are stamped by the factory and were made to look like a more expensive clock since most would not see the rear plate. An odd decision by the manufacturer but a common practice.

Side view of 30 hour movement
Side view of 30 hour movement showing count wheel and cam wheel

The plates are pinned (rather than the newer bolts or screws) and there are two solid gear wheels suggesting that it is an earlier version of this particular 30 hour movement. The suspension spring and leader are a replacement as expected given the age of the clock. The pendulum bob is a replacement and so is the dial face.

I took the movement from its case, inspected it for wear and applied clock oil. The clock is running well and does not require immediate servicing.

The clock is a mere reflection of its former self but not unattractive.

Stretching the definition of a grandfather clock

I have an elegant Grandfather clock in Cherry wood and works perfectly! Daniel Dakota with gold finish. It is 38″ high with no scratches. Looks Brand New! Westminster Chimes every hour. Works with batteries. Beautiful triple pendulum.

38″ high (97 cms) for a grandfather clock! Now that’s really “stretching” the definition of a grandfather clock. And what’s a triple pendulum?

Mercedes clock – not made by the car folks

Mercedes makes a great car. Do they make clocks? No! Is this Mercedes novelty timepiece a great clock? Read on.

Attractive Porcelain clock
Attractive ceramic clock with time-only movement

This very attractive 30-hour Mercedes ceramic mechanical shelf clock of the Baroque Meissen style (debatable) from the 1970s is more of a novelty item than a clock.

It is a time-only alarm clock movement made by Gebrüder Hauser and marketed under several names one of which is Mercedes. Ceramic clocks on eBay or any other auction sites will reveal the Mercedes name as well as other retail names on similar-looking clocks. For example here is a similarly styled Alana clock. Same casting sans gold detailing.

The Alana, similar to Mercedes but without the gold coloured accents
The Alana, similar to Mercedes but without the gold-colored accents

This Mercedes novelty clock is in excellent condition with no chips, cracks or any sign of wear. But is it worth anything? Not a lot.

History of the company

The Gebrüder Hauser clock factory (Die Uhrenfabrik Gebrüder Hauser) was founded in 1923 by Otto and Josef Hauser in Weigheim, Germany. Josef Hauser resigned in 1926 and moved on to form his own company. The company name Gebrüder Hauser then received an additional owner, Otto Hauser. Aside from alarm clocks, clocks with pendulums and chess clock works were produced.

Winder and time set screw on rear of the clock
Spring winder, time set screw and speed lever on rear of the clock

In 1951, the son, Eduard Hauser joined the company. From 1955 onward small affordable alarm clocks and chess clockworks were manufactured. In 1965 Norbert Hauser joined the company and the company name was changed to KG.

The Gebrüder Hauser KG clock factory in Weigheim was eventually closed on 31 July 1998.

Are they common?

There are a number of variants of this clock, mechanical, electrical, and quartz. The mechanical version will command higher prices and is more desirable. Unfortunately, they are throwaway clocks and the cost of servicing would be far more than they are worth.

Nevertheless, it makes for an attractive mantelpiece and as a gift, it is likely the recipient will not keep it wound.

Crazy Clock ads – all you have to do is make a bottom for this grandfather clock

This is a very nice reproduction grandfather clock top. Quartz movement, pretty dial and nice chimes. Good working order and no need to wind! Keeps good time. This looks lovely on a mantel, top of book case or on a desk. Bottom case was broken in a freak wheel chair accident, but a new one could be fashioned by someone with the time and a bit of wood working experience. Just don’t have the time to do it! $40.00.

Really…a bit of woodworking experience!

Letting a newly serviced clock sit without running

 

Box clock
Mauthe time and strike German box clock

What happens if you service a clock and let it sit without running it? What happens if the clock is not run and stored for a year, does the oil dry out? Is it better to run the clock once a month to get the oil moving?  If the clock is sitting for a year should I refresh the oil before running the clock? These are all good questions. I will attempt to answer each one.

Unfortunately, most people let their clocks run until they start to show signs of needing servicing

It largely depends on where the clock is located. Environment should always be a consideration in whether to run your clock constantly, or not. Is it in a smoke and dust free environment? Can the humidity be controlled? Are there pets? Pet hair can find its way into the strangest places.

Mauthe mantel clock with Westminster chime
Mauthe mantel clock with Westminster chime

I like to check all of my clocks on a 2 year schedule. If all looks well, I may not do anything except look it over and add oil where necessary. I might repeat this for 4, even 6 years before signs of wear show up. Or, there may be signs of wear at the first check at 2 years. If wear is evident, I might note it and monitor it several months later and address the wear at that time. This approach will keep your collection in good shape with a minimum amount of work. If there are pets in the home you may want to inspect your clocks at more regular intervals. If the clock is sitting for a year without running should I refresh the oil before running the clock? Yes, but only if there is no or very little evidence of oil in the pivot holes.

However, a clock that is allowed to sit dormant for one year should be essentially as you left it. If you used a good quality oil, an oil specifically designed for clocks, it should not break down over the course of one year. A thin coat of quality oil in an unused clock will disappear over about 4 years with little or no trace of residue and that is the time that it needs re-oiling. The buildup of sludge often seen is the end result of repeated over-oilings over the course of many years.

I know collectors who run a small number of their clocks daily but some intermittently, perhaps once or twice a month or a year, enough to keep the wheels and the oil moving. I have some specialized clocks that I will run only occasionally like my Kienzle World Clock in order to lessen the wear but keep the parts moving. Why? This a very frustrating clock to service and I want to extend the service interval as long as possible.

Kienzle World Time clock
Kienzle World Time clock

Getting back to the home environment I should mention mention that concentrations of some indoor pollutants are often 2 to 5 times higher than typical outdoor concentrations. In environments with air born particulates, tobacco smoke and animal dander your clock should be sealed properly by making sure that access doors/panels are closed, that broken dial glass is replaced, large holes in the clock cases are  sealed and clocks are away from areas of the house that produce higher amounts of dust and humidity (kitchens and bathrooms).

Unfortunately, most people let their clocks run until they start to show signs of servicing and at that point repairs can be costly if you are not doing the work yourself.

Taking good care of your timely treasure will reward you with years of service.

Waterbury 30 hour Ogee clock – servicing Part II

Waterbury OG clock
30-hour Waterbury Ogee with a beautiful veneered case

This 30 hour Ogee clock was purchased in the fall of 2017. I was eager to add this clock to my collection as it is the one particular style of clock that I do not have. From my research on Waterbury clocks I determined that it was made in or around 1870.

I decided to turn the worn trundles inward and seal them with Permatex (medium strength thread-locker) so they are fixed rather than rolling; not ideal but reversible

While the case is in remarkable condition for the age of the clock the movement has suffered the ravages of time.

Simple 30 hour movement, top plate removed
Simple 30 hour movement, top plate removed

Testing over the course of a day or so revealed that clock would not run for more than a few minutes. The movement was taken out of its case and inspected to determine what needed to be done to get it to running condition.

I expected punch marks and there were a number. In the old days clock-makers would attempt to address pivot wear by closing the pivot holes with a stake or punch. Not ideal but a common practice. Bushing work was definitely required. The pivots, on the other hand, were in very good shape and polished up nicely.

Punching the bushing home
Punching the bushing home

My first task was to address the bushings. Ten bushings were installed, 5 on each plate. The front bushing work included the escape wheel bridge, always a challenging spot to bush. Next I addressed the other serious wear issue – the trundles on all of the lantern pinions.

Lantern pinions on the escape wheel
Lantern pinions on the escape wheel

The trundles on the lantern pinions were in bad shape as you can see in the photo above. The wear seen here was identical on all 4 lantern pinions. Notched trundles were not what I expected.

The trundle work was certainly the most interesting part of the repair. My experience with lantern pinion work is zero. After some research the method I selected was to hand drill through the top shroud to release the worn trundles.

Drilling through the shroud to release worn trundles
Drilling through the shroud to release worn trundles; I used a smaller bit than the one pictured here

After releasing the worn trundles I used 1.10mm pivot wire which is ideal for this purpose and matched the worn trundles precisely.

Test fitting of pivot wire before the wire is cut to proper length

I began with the fly. I drilled into the top shroud. I then cut 1.10mm pivot wire into the required lengths then rounded the ends with a cut-off disc on a  Dremel. After the fly was completed I addressed two more lantern pinions in the same way. I staked the shroud ends to seal the trundles inside.

With three done the escape wheel lantern pinion was next and that is when I ran into a snag. The escape wheel shroud is reversed (see photo below), so I cannot drill into the top shroud without a lot of guess work. Using needle nose pliers I decided to turn the worn trundles inward and seal them with Permatex (medium strength thread-locker) so they are fixed rather than rolling. This is not ideal but it is reversible.

There does not appear to be a definitive answer as to whether the trundles should be free-moving or fixed although I suppose they are designed to roll with the gear teeth. At some future point the trundles on this wheel will need to be replaced.

So, how do you get at those trundles?
So, how do you get at those trundles?

The clock did not come with a pendulum bob so, a new one was attached. The suspension spring and leader was replaced to address a crimped spring that resulted in a wobbling pendulum bob. I used .09mm suspension spring in the correct length. The clock now runs well and it has completed a number of 30-hour cycles.

I suspect that this will be a clock that will not be run daily, the inevitable hassle of constantly winding a 30 hour clock but I am pleased that it is back in running order and I will ensure that is runs on special occasions.

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