My Antique Wall Clock Collection: A Quick YouTube Tour

Allow me to take 5 minutes of your time to watch my video of 19 wall clocks in my collection. Each wall clock is identified by its maker, where known. The video features background music throughout, with a brief segment of sound highlighting the winding of a Mauthe wall clock. Otherwise, there is no dialog.

My only requirement is that the clock must be in good working order and have an appealing appearance.

_{19 wall clocks in my collection}

My entire collection consists of 85 clocks. Many are on display in my home, and some are in the process of restoration or repair.

Check out my Pequegnat clock video as well.

March 25, 2025 7

Relocating A Shelf Clock To A…Well, A shelf

For years, my Seth Thomas column and cornice clock rested atop an antique radio in our living room. However, after redecorating the space with hardwood flooring in place of the carpet, the radio and clock no longer suited the updated space.

Seth Thomas column and cornice "Empire" style time and strike shelf clock — _{Seth Thomas column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike weight driven shelf clock}

I did not want to relegate the clock to storage, so I opted to find it a new spot in our home. Since most of the other rooms already had plenty of clocks, I decided to display it in my office.

This lovely Seth Thomas time and strike eight-day weight-driven column and cornice clock with hour strike features an attractive veneer case with cove molded crest, lyre movement, three-quarter columns in painted gold, and two glass doors, one with a reverse painted design, opening to the interior clock works which reveal a tin painted dial and the original printed and illustrated Seth Thomas clock makers label. It is 32″ tall, 18″ wide and 5“ deep.

The clock has one unique detail: while the lower tablet is original, the upper tablet was recreated from a photograph of hanging fruit, modified to complement the design below. Additionally, the dial, which had suffered some losses in the corners and chapter ring, was repainted.

The painted tin Roman Numeral dial has hand-decorated flower spandrels in all four corners with the centre portion of the brass lyre movement visible through the dial.

Among collectors an appropriate descriptor for this clock is “column and cornice” but it is also generally classified as a shelf clock. This particular clock features a hook on the top of its case, likely intended by a past owner for installation that way. While I have seen similar clocks mounted like this online, they were never originally designed to be hung.

However, the hook might serve an additional purpose. Given that these clocks can become top-heavy when fully wound, the hook could be an effective way to secure the clock to a wall, especially in areas where it might be easily bumped.

Building the Shelf

The first step was to build a shelf to accommodate the clock. I had some leftover 8-inch-deep pine boards from a previous project, which were ideal for this purpose. I purchased extra pine braces some time ago, and they turned out to be perfect for completing the project. I cut a piece about 22 inches long and painted it a shade of beige. The base of the clock is 18 inches leaving 2 inches on either side.

The next step was to mount the braces to the wall. Knowing the room had studs spaced 16 inches apart, I used a stud finder to locate the first stud and then measured 16 inches to find the second one.

Once the braces were mounted and made level I installed the shelf using wood screws.

Checking for the Correct Beat

Now to determine if the shelf is level and the clock is in beat. Using a Timetrax Clock Timing Machine I switched to the BAL feature to check the beat.

_{Timetrax microphone attached to the winding arbour}

A beat adjustment was unnecessary as the clock was already leveled. If leveling were needed, it would simply involve slightly bending the crutch incrementally to find the beat. While checking the beat can easily be done by ear, it made sense to use my Timetrax device for greater precision.

According to the Timetrax instruction manual If the beat is within plus or minus 20 the clock is in beat. In this case, it was almost dead on.

_{Seth Thomas clock mounted on a shelf (note repainted dial)}

Once the beat is confirmed, the weights are replaced, the hands and dial can be reattached, and the pendulum is given a slight push.

After confirming the beat the clock was ready to be displayed in its new spot. This Seth Thomas column and cornice clock, with its exquisite veneer case and distinctive features, now takes pride of place in my office, where it brings an added touch of elegance to the room. Moreover, since the room houses many spring-driven clocks, a weight-driven clock will provide a more accurate reference for timekeeping.

I’m pleased to have found a new location for it, as it truly deserves to be on display.

December 6, 2024

The American double-dial clock

American clocks with double dials, often referred to as “double dial” or “two-dial” clocks, were common in the 19th century.

There are two categories of double-dial clocks but first, let’s talk about the calendar clock. These clocks typically have one dial for the time and another for the calendar. The reason for this design was to provide both timekeeping and a calendar function in a single device.

_{Seth Thomas 8-day office calendar 1895}

By integrating both time and calendar functions into a single clock, manufacturers provided a practical solution for the needs of households and businesses.

Moreover, before the widespread adoption of standardized timekeeping systems, local time could vary significantly from one place to another. Having a clock that displayed both local time and the date helped people coordinate activities and synchronize their schedules more effectively.

Fashion (Southern Calendar Clock Co.) and Ithaca were well-known makers of quality shelf and wall calendar clocks. Seth Thomas was a significant producer of office calendar clocks.

Less common are double-dial clocks that exhibit two separate times. A typical two-dial clock of this type would display railroad time and local time or railroad time and city time.

_{Seth Thomas double time}_{#17 special order clock}

When the two major US railway companies adopted Standard Time in 1883 the Seth Thomas Company began the manufacture of 8-day weight-driven clocks with two time dials. The clocks would come with an upper and lower plaque depicting local time and railroad time. Some clocks were production clocks while others like the #17 were special order clocks.

_{Seth Thomas double time clock} _{#6, a production clock}

Both dials are run by one movement with a connecting drive shaft between the upper and lower units. Once the upper movement is set up, the lower unit will display the relative difference. Moving the hands on the upper unit moves the hands on the lower unit accordingly.

_{Upper movement and the lower unit are connected by a drive shaft}

Examples of the more prevalent #6 can be readily found, whereas the specialized #17 is exceptionally rare. Regardless, acquiring either double-time model would entail a significant investment of thousands of dollars.

March 5, 2024

A tale of two mantel clocks – German vs American engineering

Assessing the quality of mantel clocks, whether American or German, involves considering various factors such as craftsmanship, materials used, design, and overall reliability. Both American and German manufacturers have a rich history in clockmaking, and each has its own unique characteristics.

In my collection, I’ve assembled a diverse array of clocks, featuring both American and European examples. Drawing upon my experiences, I can confidently say that when it comes to overall quality, I find myself favouring a typical German clock over its American counterpart.

American mantel clocks are known for their diversity in design and style. Manufacturers like Seth Thomas, Ansonia, Waterbury, Sessions, and others have produced a wide range of mantel clocks with different aesthetic influences. The craftsmanship and attention to detail in many American mantel clocks are often praised. Some American manufacturers have a tradition of incorporating high-quality materials, such as solid wood and detailed finishes.

However, the American mantel clock market has seen fluctuations in quality over time. Some collectors and enthusiasts may argue that the mid-20th century saw a decline in craftsmanship as manufacturers faced increased competition and economic pressures.

I see this clearly in American mechanical clocks made in the 1920s and 1930s. There is a definite step downwards in quality and the goal of production seems to have been to maximize profits.

Germany has a long-standing reputation for precision engineering and quality craftsmanship, and this extends to its clockmaking industry. German mantel clocks, especially those produced by renowned manufacturers like Mauthe, Junghans, HAC, Kienzle, Gustav Becker, and others are often associated with precision movements and reliable timekeepers.

German mantel clocks are also known for their mechanical excellence and commitment to traditional clockmaking techniques. Many German clocks feature intricately designed cases and precise movements, often with a focus on accuracy and durability.

German clock manufacturers maintained their commitment to producing high-quality clocks well into the 1920s and 1930s. Instead of compromising on materials or craftsmanship, they opted to charge a premium for their clocks, ensuring that the level of quality remained consistently high.

A comparison

Let’s compare a common German mantel clock with its American counterpart. Both are in my collection.

The Junghans mantel clock features a design reminiscent of the popular bracket-style clocks that were fashionable several years before its production around 1915. It has a mahogany veneered case, a brass case handle, brass features below the dial, a solid brass dial bezel with beveled glass, and elegant brass feet. Its sturdy time and strike movement, known for its reliability during that era, adds to the clock’s appeal as a dependable clock for the home.

_{Seth Thomas time and strike with type 89 movement}

The Seth Thomas clock, manufactured in the United States, showcases a case of inferior quality, a basic brass bezel, and a simulated wood veneer that imitates the appearance of exotic wood. Cost-saving to maximize profit was the ultimate priority during the period of manufacture of this clock from the early 1930s.

Despite this, the clock is equipped with the reliable and durable type 89 movement, which has proven to be bulletproof and dependable over time.

Servicing a German vs an American movement

There are pros and cons to servicing either type of movement. German time and strike movements can be a bit more intricate and finicky, especially when setting up the strike side, as lining up the parts correctly is crucial. Dealing with smaller pivots also increases the risk of damage, bending, or breaking.

Conversely, with American time and strike movements, the larger pivots minimize breakage and it requires brute strength to inflict any damage when manipulating the parts.

However crude an American movement might appear in a side-by-side comparison with a German movement, there is a notable advantage to the former. An American movement (generally speaking) can endure wear much better than a German movement, and it can continue to run effectively even when significantly worn.

That said, when both are set up correctly and any wear is mitigated both American and German movements function reliably for years.

In Summary

Both American and German mantel clocks can offer high-quality options, but individual preferences may vary based on factors like design preferences and specific features.

Collectors and enthusiasts often appreciate the historical context and craftsmanship associated with clocks from both regions.

Obviously, your source of clocks depends on where you live in the world as Canadian and American clocks are widely available to those living in North America whereas the opposite is true for European and Australian residents, for example.

One last thing to note is that precision regulators from both countries are of equal quality. Whether American or German, both exhibit equal precision and performance. They both adhere to the highest standards and can be trusted for accurate timekeeping. It’s worth noting, however, that achieving such precision comes with a correspondingly high price.

These viewpoints represent my personal opinions, and I encourage readers to delve into researching specific models and manufacturers. Making an informed decision should be based on individual preferences and priorities.

February 9, 2024

Wrapping up the servicing of a Seth Thomas type 89 movement

Seth Thomas is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history, and they produced a variety of clock movements over the years. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas between 1900 and 1938.

Seth Thomas mantel clock from the 1930s — _{Seth Thomas mantel or shelf clock}

The mantel clock in question features the Type 89 movement. Acquired in the summer of 2023, this clock boasts a simple and straightforward design.

In the first part of this two-part series, I discussed the disappointments I encountered with the clock’s case.

Seth Thomas type 89 movement showing dirt and rust — _{Seth Thomas type 89 movement, dirty and rusty}

The focus then shifted to the disassembly process and my examination of the widely-used Seth Thomas Type 89 clock movement.

My observations highlighted a replaced mainspring on the strike side, the necessity for bushing work, and indications of rust, all of which posed challenges that I committed to addressing in subsequent stages such as cleaning, bushing, oiling, and reassembly.

The focus of this blog post is the completion of servicing of this type 89 clock movement.

The front plate of a type 89 Seth Thomas movement — _{Front of the type 89 movement} _{before disassembly}

Cleaning of the mainsprings

There is always the temptation to do nothing with the mainsprings if they look acceptable. However, cleaning the mainsprings is an essential part of clock servicing. Uncoiling and wiping the dirt and grime from the mainsprings with a cloth is the preferred method, but cleaning them with an ultrasonic cleaner is also an option.

In Part I, I cleaned the mainsprings in my ultrasonic cleaner and provided a rationale for this decision. Before I go any further, I’d like to emphasize a crucial point regarding the cleaning of mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner. This practice is not recommended and should only be considered as a last resort.

While cleaning mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner has little impact on the surfaces or mechanism of the cleaner itself the oil removed from the mainsprings generates a black liquid that contaminates the cleaning solution, rendering it ineffective for future use.

_{Seth Thomas type 89 mainsprings, note the replacement spring on the right}

Clamps have been applied to secure the mainsprings after oiling, and they’ve been set aside. Now, we move on to the next step: the bushing phase.

The back plate is removed on a type 89 Seth Thomas movement — _{Backplate removed}

Bushing the movement

As the movement is fully disassembled this is the stage where bushing work can be done.
I commend individuals who choose to bush by hand, but personally, It is not for me.

Various systems exist for bushing, with KWM and Bergeon being the two most widely adopted. It’s worth noting that neither system is inherently superior to the other, as preferences tend to vary among enthusiasts. When referring to a “system,” it’s important to understand that the bushings from one system are not interchangeable with those from the other.

That said I use the Bergeon system.

Bergeon 6200 Bushing Machine — _{Bergeon Bushing Machine}

Before bushing, I identify all the locations requiring attention and mark them with a Sharpie. There is no permanent mark as rubbing alcohol will easily remove all traces of ink.

I have an excellent assortment of bushings and have all the required ones for this project.

An assortment of Bergeon bushings, assortment #5488 — _{An assortment of Bergeon bushings, #5488}

Using cutters each hole is drilled out and chamfered, that is, removing the sharp edges to allow the pushings to be pressed in smoothly. As I insert each new bushing I test the fit by assembling the wheels to check how freely they move. This allows me to make small adjustments in the event the pivot is too tight in the bushing hole.

Cutting into the bushing hole with Bergeon bushing machine — _{Cutting into a brass plate}

Based on my initial assessment, the bushings for both the front and back plates of the escape wheel were the most worn. The next new bushing is the fourth wheel front plate, the one adjacent to the escape wheel. After three bushings everything looks good and the wear further down the train does not look too bad. A fourth bushing for the fourth wheel should be enough.

A cutting broach is used to enlarge any holes that are a tight fit for a pivot followed by a smoothing broach. To prepare for the wheels to go back in place all bushing holes are cleaned with pegs/toothpicks.

Test fitting the time-side wheels during the bushing process, type 89 Seth Thomas movement — _{Test fitting the time-side wheels during the bushing process}

In the photo above, the plates and gears look shinier after a session with the ultrasonic cleaner. However, it’s important to note that the main goal in clock repair isn’t to make everything as shiny as possible. The focus is on reducing wear and tear. Some dirt and grime on the plates might not come off completely during the cleaning process in every case and it is not something the clock repairer should be overly concerned with.

Back to bushing. There is a little bit of play on the second and third wheels but it is tolerable so, I think I will stop at this point.

Punching a 3.5 mm Bergeon bushing into a clock plate — _{Punching a bushing into the plate}

Were I in the clock repair business I would bush everything on the time train, or the entire movement for that matter, but since I usually inspect movements in my collection every 2-3 years I can address any additional wear at that time.

On to the strike train. In the first article, I mentioned that there was not much wear on the strike side which might be attributable to that side not being wound as often. The only hole that must be addressed is the cam wheel bushing on the front plate. Why this bushing hole is worn much worse than the others is a bit of a mystery.

Okay, all the work is done for a total of five new Bergeon bushings. The holes have been pegged, and the movement is now ready to be reassembled.

The one hiccup encountered during the bushing process was the malfunction of my caliper tool. Fortunately, this isn’t a major problem, as all the Bergeon bushings are uniform at 3.5mm outside diameter, with inside diameters of either 1.4mm or 1.5mm so I knew what size to grab first.

Reassembly

When dealing with American 8-day time and strike movements, there are challenges in configuring the strike mechanism accurately. Occasionally, luck is on my side, and I manage to place the paddle in the deep slot, position the lever in the lowest part of the cam wheel, and align the warning wheel just right on the first attempt.

A useful tip. If the lever is in the lower part of the cam wheel and the paddle is not in the deep slot, simply move the toothed count wheel sideways so that it does not engage the pinon and reposition the wheel till the paddle finds the deep slot.

No luck setting up the strike this time! If the strike train does not lock correctly it will simply keep on running and you will know that soon enough.

The plates can be partially pried open without the risk of all the wheels and levers springing out. Repositioning the warning wheel involves moving the fly aside, carefully extracting the 4th wheel from its pivot hole, and rotating it a quarter turn or so to ensure the warning pin aligns with the stop lever.

_{Seth Thomas movement on the test stand}

A minor issue with the hammer lever surfaced as it was not aligning correctly with the strike pins on the cam wheel. No disassembly of the movement is required for this adjustment. Simply loosen the bottom two nuts by the mainsprings, and the strike hammer can be removed to straighten it. After having been bent multiple times over the years, straightening it out resolved the issue.

Next, the movement is oiled with Keystone clock pivot oil and mounted on a test stand. After a week it is running and striking as it should.

And lastly, my new caliper arrived just as I was concluding the servicing on this clock.

Addendum

To properly configure the strike side, pay attention to the positioning of the levers as pointed out by the arrows.

In the above photo, the lower arrow shows the paddle in the deep slot, and the upper arrow shows the drop lever in the indent of the cam.

The upper arrow shows the position of the stop pin on the stop wheel. The lower arrow shows the locking lever.

February 2, 2024

Seth Thomas type 89 movement servicing

I acquired this mantel clock during the summer of 2023. From a distance, it looked very good but upon closer inspection what I thought was a rosewood veneer finish was in fact, a thin wrapper, so a bit of a disappointment.

Seth Thomas mantel clock — _{The simple lines of this clock was the main attraction}

However, the focus of this blog post is not the clock’s case but the ubiquitous type 89 clock movement found within that made its way into thousands of Seth Thomas clocks.

Disassembly

The first step is to remove the hour and minute hands. Working from the back, four case screws release the movement from its case. Things will go along more smoothly if the coiled gong is removed as well.

Looking at the back plate, the suspension spring and rod must be removed first. Then comes the regulating adjustments screw and rod which consists of releasing 3 machine screws and then pulling out the spline gear which is operated through the clock face by the small end of a double-ended winding key. Once that hardware is removed it is on to the removal of the back plate.

A view from the back, Seth Thomas type 89 movement — _A _{view of the movement}

There are 4 nuts (plus the pendulum rod retainer screw) to be removed, however, it is advisable to unhook the helper spring at the top and the hammer spring at the bottom before lifting up the plate. This will prevent the wheels from being dislodged as the back plate is removed.

If the wheels spring out, reassembling the wheels becomes a challenging task of guesswork to determine their correct locations, especially for beginners.

Brass helper spring hooked around a post of a type 89 movement — _{Brass helper spring hooked around a post}

As each part is removed place them in a hobby tray or receptacle so that nothing will be lost or misplaced. No matter what the skill level, separating the time side gears from the strike side is always a good practice.

Findings

Upon lifting the back plate, my initial observation was the replacement of the mainspring on the strike side at some point in the clock’s life.

Whenever I encounter a replaced mainspring, my immediate focus shifts to inspecting potential damage to the main wheel teeth and the lantern pinions in the second and third wheels. This is because the force of a break occasionally causes secondary damage along the gear train. This is often referred to as collateral damage. Fortunately, the components up the train in this movement are undamaged.

Backplate removed on the type 89 movement — _{Backplate removed}

An initial inspection of wear indicates a need for five new bushings on the time side, while only one is necessary on the strike side. Further examination may reveal more once a more detailed assessment is conducted.

Interestingly, the strike side shows less wear, indicating that it was seldom wound. My assumption is that after the repair of the mainspring, the owner decided it wasn’t worth the risk of another mainspring break and chose not to wind it frequently or at all.

More concerning is evidence of rust on the movement posts, some pivots, and the lantern pinions. The clock was obviously stored in a humid location for a period.

Two mainsprings for the type 89 movement — _Mainsprings

All parts were cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner and thoroughly dried.

Despite my best efforts, I could not separate the main wheels from the mainsprings. I opted to place both the wheel and mainspring in the ultrasonic cleaner. This is not a typical practice for me as it dirties the cleaning solution and limits resue, but I intend to dispose of the cleaning solution after this servicing.

From control for the L&R ultrasonic cleaner — _{Ultrasonic cleaner}

That’s all for now

Despite encountering disappointment in the clock’s case, the disassembly and findings of the ubiquitous Seth Thomas Type 89 clock movement revealed a replaced mainspring on the strike side, a need for bushing work, and evidence of rust, presenting challenges that will be addressed in the upcoming stages of cleaning, bushing work, oiling, and reassembly.

I will conclude here and save the remaining details of the servicing for a subsequent post.

January 30, 2024

Seth Thomas round top shelf clock with lyre movement revisited

During its prime, the Seth Thomas company produced exquisite clocks, and in my view, clocks from the 1870s stand out as the pinnacle of their craftsmanship. This particular clock embodies the design aesthetics of its era, lending it a timeless and enduring appeal.

_{Seth Thomas round top} _{with its vibrant Rosewood case}

The clock boasts a sizable round top design, measuring 15 inches in height, 10 inches in width at the base, and 4 inches in depth. Encased in a visually appealing Rosewood veneer, and it features a mirrored rectangular lower tablet. Some variants have clear glass, but the original design likely incorporated mirrored glass.

The wood grain is exceptionally bold and eye-catching. A missing sliver of veneer between the 9 and 12 o’clock positions on the bezel, which was absent when I acquired the clock in 2019 at an NAWCC clock convention in the United States, has been faithfully restored.

The clock’s distinctive charm is amplified by its unique stylized hands, adorned with an “S” on the minute hand and a “T” on the hour hand. The clock dial seems too well-preserved to be original although the replacement (?) dial displays the Seth Thomas trademark just below the centre cannon.

8-day Lyre movement in its case — _{8-day Lyre movement tightly mounted in its case}

What truly sets this clock apart is its elegant lyre 8-day time and strike spring-driven movement, accompanied by a bell gong with an alarm function. This movement, seemingly stuffed into the case, reveals its intricate workings when the dial mount is removed. The remarkable engineering of the movement is a testament to its adaptability, enabling it to be mounted in a wide variety of clock cases. Nevertheless, as mentioned, it is a tight fit.

The movement proudly bears the die-stamped inscription “S. Thomas, Plymouth Conn.” and is equipped with Geneva stops (or stop-works) for enhanced timekeeping accuracy, a feature often absent in many antique clocks of that period.

Unlike many contemporary clocks, the movement plates are held together with taper pins, reflecting a common practice of the era. The alarm mechanism, situated just below and to the left of the movement is wound by the small end of a double side key. There is an alarm adjustment wheel on the centre cannon with a cam that activates the alarm and once set runs the alarm spring down till the alarm stops which necessitates rewinding each night. The alarm emits a piercing shrill as it strikes the iron bell gong. As the average household had just one clock the sound of the alarm was designed to resonate throughout the entire home.

The movement is mounted on the back of the case using wooden blocks at the top and bottom. To access the movement, the rear panel must be unscrewed, revealing the internal workings.

_{8-day Lyre movement with Geneva stops}

Inside the case, a well-preserved label declares, ”Spring Brass Eight Day Clocks”, “Made and Sold by Seth Thomas, Thomaston, Connecticut”. While slightly weathered in the lower right corner due to minor water staining, the label predominantly remains intact, adding good context to this attractive shelf clock.

After being stored away for 2 years, I recently dusted off the clock and applied a layer of Minwax finishing paste wax. The plan is to display the clock prominently in my home once again.

Undoubtedly, this simple time and strike clock with alarm stands out as one of the most captivating pieces in my collection, embodying the artistry and ingenuity of Seth Thomas clocks from the latter part of the 19th century.

October 6, 2023

My Seth Thomas Regulator #2 Clock five years later

In 2018, while exploring Ontario (Canada), I came across a Seth Thomas Regulator #2 in an antique shop in Bloomfield, just a short drive from Picton, a prominent center in Prince Edward County known for its numerous wineries.

I had my eye on this clock when I viewed it online over the summer and carefully contemplated the purchase before finally acquiring it in the fall of 2018. These clocks are somewhat rare to find, but the price was reasonable, and the clock itself was in very good condition.

The Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was recognizable at one time as one of the most commonly seen regulator clocks in America. It graced many railway stations across both the US and Canada throughout the last century, a testament to its accuracy and reliability. It is a sturdy, precise, well-crafted timepiece that Seth Thomas produced from 1860 to 1950, an impressive 90-year production run. Few clocks can boast such longevity, making it an iconic American clock that every serious clock collector desires.

The design of the #2 remained largely unchanged over the years, but certain design characteristics can help in dating a specific clock. The identification guide below outlines characteristics of the dial and case that assist in estimating the year of manufacture. A clock colleague cautioned me against placing excessive trust in the chart, but I am satisfied with using rough estimates.

With the exception of its distinctive base, most #2s produced after the earliest versions had the pendulum mounted in the rear. The chart also mentions a limited reissue in 1976. While the reissue is well-crafted and aesthetically pleasing, most Seth Thomas enthusiasts would argue that it doesn’t quite compare to an authentic Regulator #2, and the prices for these versions reflect that sentiment. Nevertheless, those who own the reissue appear to be satisfied with their acquisition.

According to the chart, my clock was likely made between 1922 and 1929. It features a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2, Arabic numerals, and spade hands. The bow tie connecting the wood dial bezel and the drop is a single piece (earlier versions had a three-piece bow tie). The clock has a second hand positioned 2 inches above the center cannon, but it’s not a true second hand; it runs off the escapement, taking 80 beats to complete a “minute.” Standing at 36 ½ inches tall, it’s veneered in mahogany.

The bottom right of the movement bears the stamp “77A” with the letter “K” beneath it, although it lacks other distinctive markings. Unlike some versions of the 77 movement that have lantern pinions, this one has cut pinions. Whether one type of pinion is better than the other is open to debate.

As with any item nearly 100 years old, there were some issues with the clock. There is minor scuffing on the dial, no label, a finish that has lost its luster, and paint splatter on the top of the case (though not visible from most any angle). Taking down a clock while painting a room is a simple decision in my view, but some individuals prefer painting around it.

I transported this clock from Ontario to Nova Scotia by car, and removing the pendulum for transportation is not a straightforward process. If you are familiar with the pendulum arrangement on a typical weight-driven Vienna Regulator clock, this one is similar. Removing the weight is as simple as unhooking it from the cable wheel. Like Viennas, the pendulum is hung behind the movement, and both the weight and movement must be removed to access the pendulum since the pendulum must be removed for transport.

The steps to remove the pendulum are as follows. First, the clock hands are removed. The minute hand is secured with a nut, which must be released. The second hand is a friction fit and can be pulled straight off.

There are eight small screws holding the dial in place. Once the dial is off, two larger screws on the wooden second-hand rail can be removed to access the movement. Four cylindrical column posts secure the movement in place; unscrewing them, starting with the bottom two, allows the movement to be lifted/pulled out. Once the movement is out, the pendulum can be unhooked from its suspension spring. The entire process takes less than five minutes.

The trapezoid 77A movement in this clock appeared clean when I first opened the case. There were signs of previous work, such as punch marks around some pivot holes, a common practice frowned upon today. The deadbeat escapement was in good condition and did not require adjustment. Otherwise, the movement looked to be in very good condition.

Getting the clock to run reliably presented a challenge, and it took about a week to troubleshoot and resolve the issue. It eventually became clear that the issue lay in the positioning of the hands with the second hand obstructing the hour hand. I remounted the dial ensuring there was sufficient clearance between the second hand and the hour hand and it ran smoothly thereafter.

Regulating the clock is a relatively straightforward process, achieved by adjusting the rating nut on the bottom of the pendulum. This clock must be level and properly aligned to function correctly.

Time for servicing

In the spring of 2021, the clock began to stop intermittently. It would operate for 5-10 minutes before coming to a halt. I had replaced the suspension spring two weeks earlier and thought I had addressed the issue but clearly, I had not.

The clock’s apparent simplicity masks the tight tolerances it requires, and any signs of wear have the potential to cause the clock to cease functioning. Despite being a time-only movement with few gears I do not believe this is a good movement for the novice clock repairer.

I installed three bushings on the back plate; the second, and third wheels, and the escape wheel, and two on the front; third wheel, the escape wheel, and the verge pivot hole front plate.

At the time I also discovered a slightly bent third-wheel arbour that did not take much effort to straighten.

While the movement was out of the case I replaced the maintaining power spring. I’m unsure if I’ve resolved the clunking sound the clock produced when I wound it previously because I now must turn the key crank in the opposite direction for a quarter turn to adjust the maintaining spring to avoid the clunk.

I also replaced the old cable with a 3/64-inch brass-weight cable. One aspect of the brass cable that I particularly appreciate is its nylon core, which prevents it from coiling. Polishing the pendulum bob and weight enhanced its overall appearance.

Since 2021 it has been running very well and keeping accurate time.

While these clocks were constructed robustly and designed for demanding environments, running for extended periods without the need for maintenance, there is still a requirement for periodic servicing. When I obtained the clock, it quite likely had gone without servicing for a considerable duration, and the maintenance performed in 2021 was certainly long overdue.

Still, I am happy with the purchase of this clock. At present, it adorns the front hallway of our home, adding a touch of elegance to the entrance.

This clock is a splendid addition to our home’s front entrance, with a rich and storied history. While its exact whereabouts over the past 100 years remains a mystery, it remains a remarkable clock.

October 3, 2023

Essential Clock Movement Servicing Steps

Why does a mechanical clock movement require servicing? The answer is quite straightforward. Maintaining your clock’s movement is essential to ensure it continues to function properly and extends its lifespan.

Regular servicing reduces wear and tear, ultimately preserving the clock’s functionality. Ideally, most clocks should undergo servicing every three to five years to maximize longevity.

This article outlines the seven steps I typically follow when servicing an antique or vintage clock movement, using a common American, pendulum-driven movement as an example, Seth Thomas’s Type 86 8-day time and strike movement.

Step 1 – Initial Assessment: Upon receiving a clock, my first task is to determine if it runs. I assess whether it runs and strikes correctly and completes its full 8-day cycle. If it operates for fewer than 8 days, there may be an underlying power problem, which could stem from various factors like weakened mainsprings, worn bushing holes, bent arbours, and so on but more often than not a good cleaning will improve its run time even if there is some wear in the movement.

_{The movement is mounted to the front of the clock}

Step 2 – Addressing non-running clocks: When the clock does not run, I conduct an examination to identify potential issues such as missing or broken components, bent wheel assemblies, and arbours, damaged or worn gear teeth, worn pinions, snapped mainsprings, and broken or broken clicks along with any missing parts like suspension springs or pendulum bobs.

Nevertheless, when all components are intact and the mainsprings appear to be in good condition, I take measures to ensure the clock is properly adjusted for an even beat.

I’ve observed that on many occasions, the mainsprings are wound tightly, and relieving this tension tends to address the problem (albeit temporarily), allowing the clock to operate relatively smoothly. However, if it stops running soon after starting, I note the problem areas and set it aside for servicing.

Step 3 – Disassembly and assessment: After removing the hands, dial face, and taking the movement out of the case (4 screws hold the type 86 in place), I conduct a thorough visual inspection. This step involves checking for damage, dirt, and excess oil, and determining the extent of cleaning required.

I use retaining clamps to safely secure the mainsprings’ power and then proceed with disassembling the movement. Disassembly includes removing outboard parts such as the crutch and suspension rod, releasing the four or five bolts holding the plates in place, and proceeding to remove the wheels and levers.

I assess wear in various areas, including pinions, pivot holes, arbor conditions, and connections between plates and pillars. I also look for tool marks and indications of previous servicing.

Step 4 – Cleaning the parts: Cleaning the clock movement parts is crucial, and I prefer using an ultrasonic cleaner. I use a mild alkaline, biodegradable degreaser concentrate for cleaning. I organize the parts in compartments for easy identification, with strike parts separated from time-side parts.

For open-loop mainsprings such as the type 86, I detach them from the main wheel before cleaning. To guarantee that the mainwheels and springs are reinstalled in their original spots, I mark them with either “T” or “S” for clear identification.

Drying the parts promptly is vital to prevent rust formation. I use shop towels and a portable hair dryer to ensure all areas are dry. Lantern pinions tend to be especially difficult to dry and a hair dryer is an ideal tool to remove excess water.

After cleaning, I inspect the cleaning solution and, if suitable, reuse it.

Step 5 – Polishing pivots: The next step involves polishing the pivots. If the pivots are in good condition, a few passes with an emery board are sufficient. A small metal lathe is ideal but a portable drill will do.

For pitted pivots, more aggressive cleaning and polishing may be necessary, and in extreme cases, pivot replacement may be required. Cleaning and wiping the pivots with a soft cloth is essential, followed by bushing if needed.

Step 6 – Bushing, broaching, and pegging pivot holes: I determine which pivot holes need bushing by assessing lateral pivot movement and marking each one (with a black marker) to be bushed.

I use a Bergeon bushing machine known for its precise work. After making the bush hole, I clean it from chips and burrs, followed by broaching if necessary. In the process, both cutting and smoothing broaches are used to ensure an optimum fit.

Drilling a hole with Bergeon bushing machine — _{A hole is enlarged with a} _{cutter to accommodate a new bushing}

All pivot holes are pegged with toothpicks until no residue remains.

Step 7 – Making necessary repairs: Other potential repairs include re-pivoting, straightening or replacing wheel teeth, sourcing parts, making new parts, and addressing issues with worn lantern pinions and escapement components.

Step 8 – Reassembly, testing, and adjustment: Finally, I reassemble the clock movement, carefully securing the gears and levers in place. I use a pivot locator to move the pivots to their correct location. Once reassembled, the movement goes through a testing process and adjustment on a test stand, ensuring it is in beat and properly regulated. This testing phase can take up to a month before returning the movement to its case.

_{A movement on a test stand. Attached is a microphone for a beat amplifier}

In conclusion, servicing antique or vintage clocks significantly extends their lifespan. These seven steps provide a general guideline for clock movement servicing, though some steps may require further explanation, and individual procedures may vary among clockmakers.

September 29, 2023

Tick Talk Tuesday #49 – a well-preserved column and cornice clock

^{Tick-Talk Tuesday is dedicated to addressing readers’ letters and comments related to clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. In cases where the comments and questions are particularly challenging, I seek advice from my fellow clock enthusiasts to provide the most accurate and helpful response.}

DS writes

Morning, Ron –

I’ve wanted to let you know how much I’ve enjoyed these blog posts.

What a nice work area you have there, too.

I’ve had my eyes on a marvelous Wm. Van Tassel sleigh-front, or “Triple Decker” Seth Thomas manufactured for the Canadian market for some time. I’ve been fascinated with these old clocks for many years, and in particular the triple-deckers.
I’ll attach an image or two of the Van Tassel I’m interested in.
It is perhaps the finest sleigh-front I’ve ever seen, in terms of condition & originality.

I only have a modest collection of some cottage clocks of the various Connecticut makers, and several “Ogees.” My only real “Problem” is finding time enough to spend with them!

Thanks again for these interesting, well-written articles.

Take care…

Image preview — _{Wm. Van Tassel sleigh-front}

I write

Thanks for your email, DS

That is a very nice clock. Some would call it a column and cornice but as you said often referred to as a triple-decker. I like the two-door feature. I have a similar Seth Thomas. My only thought is whether or not the tablets (or at least one of them ) are original. The cornice and the base are often beat up with wear and tear and it is nice to see one so unmolested. It is a clock I would take a serious look at.

I appreciate your comments on my blog.

Ron

Seth Thomas column and cornice shelf clock — _{Seth Thomas column and cornice clock}

My very similar Seth Thomas clock

June 27, 2023

Clocks with luminous dials – the danger within

I received an email from a blog fan this week who posed an interesting question. She was concerned that a number of clocks offered for sale at a local antique store had radium dials. I assured her that I know of no maker of mantel, shelf, or long case clocks that used radium on their dials but had there been alarm clocks, wristwatches, and even antique compasses on display her concerns would have been justified.

Westclox LaSalle alarm clock — _{Westclox LaSalle non-luminous alarm clock}

As a matter of fact, it reminded me of the number of times I have been in antique and junk stores and have seen clocks with luminous dials and the danger I might have faced during a brief exposure, say within a meter or so and the more serious danger of being irradiated had I purchased and serviced them.

As a clock collector, I have a limited number of alarm clocks none of which have luminous dials. I understand the potential danger of radium and that is why I confine my collecting to alarm clocks with non-luminous dials only.

Even a clock that has lost its luminescence may still have traces of radium on its dial or particulate matter that has fallen from the clock face which makes them equally as dangerous.

_{Antique “alarm” clock mechanism from around 1900}

Since radium has a half-life of hundreds of years even old radium dials are very hazardous. If working on a clock with a radium dial care should be taken to prevent the inhalation or ingestion of flakes or dust which may contain radioactive materials. My advice is to not work on them at all.

In the past several years radium dials have largely been replaced by phosphorescent – or occasionally tritium-based light sources. Therefore clocks produced after the 1970s had safer luminous material applied to the dials but modern alarm clocks are not nearly as attractive as antique clocks from the 1920s or so.

Clocks with luminous radium dials are certainly a danger to avoid and as far as I am concerned, not worth the risk.

February 10, 2023

My first antique clock – a Seth Thomas Adamantine mantel clock

I have been collecting clocks for over twenty years and for the past 11 years I have been building my collection of vintage and antique clocks, repairing them, and restoring them.

I often reflect back to that first “real” antique clock that my wife and I purchased at an antique store in Blockhouse, Nova Scotia in the fall of 2000. Blockhouse is about 2 hours from our home and during our Saturday excursion in the area, we stopped at various craft and antique stores to see what we could find.

The store is long gone but I remember the day we browsed through the store, looked at several antique clocks, and decided upon a Seth Thomas mantel clock.

_{The first photo of the clock was taken in December 2000}

At the time we thought we were happy with the price we paid though as my knowledge of antique clocks grew I discovered that we paid far more than what it was worth. Still, no regrets.

It sat on an old Willis upright piano for a number of years and since then it has moved to our dining room where it is on prominent display.

The clock is an 8-day Seth Thomas time and strike. It is in an ebony case with adamantine features. These clocks are known to collectors as “Black Mantel Clocks”, and were popular from 1880 to 1931. The date on this clock is 1907.

Adamantine veneer was developed by the Celluloid Manufacturing Company of New York City and was covered by U.S. Patent dated September 7, 1880. Seth Thomas Clock Company purchased the right to use the Adamantine veneer in 1881. At that time Seth Thomas stamped the year of manufacture on the bottom of each case.

The movement had to be cleaned but it was in surprisingly good condition with one issue, a stripped regulating gear. Because the gear is stripped the clock cannot be regulated by inserting the small end of a 2-ended key into the front dial. However, it has an adjustable pendulum and I will stick with that until I find a donor movement.

We ran it for a number of years until 2016 when I took the clock apart, cleaned it, and installed 4 new bushings.

It is not a clock that I keep running continuously but every month or so I wind it up and run it since antique clocks need to be “exercised” occasionally.

_{The clock today} _{with gold scrolling restored}

Given its sentimental value, it will stay in my collection.

November 25, 2022

Dating an Antique or Vintage Clock – Part II

Honestly, an entire book could be devoted to the topic of dating clocks. Some time ago, I published an article titled “How to Date an Antique or Vintage Clock – Part I,” in which I used specific examples from my own collection.

I’d like to explore this topic further, and this post will discuss additional methods for dating an antique or vintage mechanical clock. While there is no one definitive method for dating an antique or vintage clock, there are often clear clues in some cases and more subtle hints in others that can help pinpoint when a clock was made.

Occasionally, the exact month and year are displayed somewhere on the case, and in other instances, the clock by way of serial numbers, date stamps on the movement, style of hands, spandrels, dial design, case design, and so on, establishes the date to within a certain period.

After 1896 foreign clocks (Europe, England) were mandated to have the country of origin on the case, usually on the dial. Any clock made after that date will have the country of origin.

Duration of manufacture

A bit of research into the history of a clockmaker can help you narrow down the timeframe for dating your clock. For instance, the E.N. Welch Clock Company, an American manufacturer, produced clocks until 1903, when it was acquired by the Sessions Clock Company, which continued making clocks until 1970. The E.N. Welch Clock Company made clocks for a 50-year period until its acquisition by Sessions in 1903.

By 1903 German-based clock manufacturer Junghans was the largest clock maker in the world and continued in its quest to bring more companies into the fold. Gustav Becker, founded in the 1860s, and Hamburg American Clock Company, founded in 1883 were absorbed by Junghans in the late 1920s. Although those companies were folded into Junghans in 1926 the Gustav Becker name lived on for another 9 years.

_{Gustav Becker regulator C.1907}, _{Braunau factory}

Clocks with Steel vs Brass plates vs Woodworks movements

Smaller shelf clocks with 1-day (30-hour) wooden movements were produced in fairly large quantities from around 1810 to 1845, after which most clockmakers changed over to brass movements. Wood dials were also popular during this period.

_{Daniel Pratt woodworks movement with dial removed} _C.1832-38

By 1860 iron weights were being replaced by springs as the power source, and smaller clocks, many of them 8-day, were becoming increasingly popular. Early American spring-driven clocks used brass springs (late 1830s) until steel became cost-effective.

This information is important for dating a clock because it highlights key transitions in clockmaking technology and design, which can help pinpoint the era in which a clock was made. For example, the use of wooden movements and wood dials can indicate a clock was produced between 1810 and 1845. The shift from iron weights to springs by 1860 helps us understand why spring-driven clocks became popular, which is crucial for narrowing the period of manufacture. Additionally, the switch from brass springs to steel in the early 1840s can provide a more precise date range for early spring-driven clocks.

Understanding these technological changes allows you to make more informed judgments about a clock’s age based on its features.

Brass mainsprings for Manross clock — _{Brass mainsprings from a Manross steeple clock C.1837}

During periods when brass was in short supply such as the World Wars (WWI and WWII), makers often made steel plate movements with brass bushing inserts. However, some companies such as Arthur Pequegnat used either steel plates or brass-plated steel plates throughout their operating years (1902 to 1941).

_{Steel plates on a Pequegnat time and strike clock}

Other clock companies switched to steel as a cost-cutting measure when brass prices were high, not necessarily during wartime.

Screws and nails, chime rods, coiled gongs

In older clocks, nails, and screws were made of iron and hand-forged, with screw heads being slotted. Hand-forged nails can be found in clock cases dating from the earliest examples up to the mid-19th century, after which machined screws and nails started to replace them.

An ogee clock, like this example made by George H. Clark in 1865, was constructed with hand-forged nails.

_{George H Clark 30-hour Ogee shelf clock}

Robertson and Phillips head screws were introduced in the first part of the twentieth century. Since the Robertson head was invented in 1906 and Phillips screw heads only began to be widely used in the 1930s screws of these types found in older antique clocks are later additions.

Since these screw types were introduced in the early 20th century, their use in a clock that dates from an earlier period suggests that the screws were likely replaced or added during a later restoration or repair. Recognizing these screws helps refine the clock’s dating and can provide insight into its history and any modifications it may have undergone.

The first rod gong, a single striking rod, dates back to patent designation DRGM 108469, granted to Johann Obergfell on December 23rd, 1899. The introduction of the rod gong, as opposed to earlier bell or strike systems, represents a key development in the evolution of mechanical clocks, especially in terms of sound quality and the technology used.

Understanding when this innovation occurred can help date a clock more accurately, particularly those with rod gongs, as it indicates they were likely made after 1899. Rod gongs are typically made from a copper or nickel alloy and are press-fitted into a block.

Coiled gong - a replacement? — _{Thick coiled gong}

There are two types of coils: the thick coils, which spiral only a few times and produce a deep, rich tone, and the thinner coils, which spiral many times and often have a higher-pitched, tin-like sound. Thick coils were used well before the mid-1800s. These coils are typically mounted onto a fitting, which is then attached to an iron block. Smaller, thicker coils became more common towards the end of the 19th century.

On the American front, thin wire coils were very common. Some examples had the coil mounted to a dome-shaped base which was said to improve the tone considerately.

Commemorative plaques

Commemorative plaques which display dates are often a good indicator of the age of a clock. However, the clock may have been on a seller’s shelf for years before the date on the plaque. This nevertheless places the clock within a certain range of dates. This photo shows a plaque on a HAC (Hamburg American Clock Co.) time and strike shelf clock.

_{HAC shelf clock with the date 1926 on a plaque}

Type of escapement

Recoil (anchor), half deadbeat, Graham deadbeat, pinwheel, Brocot types are found in older antique clocks while, hairspring, floating balance, lever type escapements are found in newer vintage (less than 100 years old) clocks.

For example, floating balance movements began appearing in mechanical clocks in the early 1950s. The floating balance will tolerate being out of level, unlike pendulum clocks which must be on a level surface, an attractive marketing feature.

This is important because the type of escapement mechanism used in a clock can provide key insights into its age and technological development. Older clocks with recoil (anchor), half deadbeat, Graham deadbeat, pinwheel, or Brocot escapements reflect the horological practices of earlier periods, while newer clocks featuring hairspring, floating balance, or lever type escapements indicate a more modern design, typically found in clocks less than 70 years old.

For example, the introduction of the floating balance in the 1950s was a signifcant advance because it allows for clocks that are less sensitive to being off-level, a feature that made them more convenient for consumers. Recognizing these mechanisms helps in accurately dating a clock and understanding the technological shifts over time.

Sspriral spring for floating balance escapement — _{floating balance escapement} _{C. 1950}

Style of case

The style of the case, such as ogee, box clock, steeple, cottage, or gingerbread, can help date the clock to a specific period.

The style of a clock case can offer valuable clues about its age, as different case styles were popular during specific periods in history. Here’s a breakdown of some common clock case styles and their associated timeframes:

Ogee Clocks: These clocks, named for the distinctive curved, “S”-shaped design of their cases, were popular from the early 19th century, especially between 1825 and 1850 but continued to be made into the 1880s. They typically have a simple, symmetrical shape, often with a painted or paper dial, and were mostly made with wooden movements in the early years.
Box Clocks: This style features a simple, rectangular or square case, often with a hinged door or glass front. Box clocks were common in the early to mid-19th century (1920s to 1940s), with their plain, functional design making them relatively inexpensive to produce.
Steeple Clocks: Steeple clocks are characterized by their pointed, “steeple” shape at the top of the case. This design became particularly popular from the 1840s through the 1870s. Steeple clocks were typically more decorative and were often used in homes and churches, with some having more ornate carvings or decorative elements.
Cottage Clocks: Cottage clocks, with their simple and rustic designs, emerged in the mid-19th century, around the 1840s and 1850s. Often smaller in size, these inexpensive clocks were popular in rural homes. They are sometimes characterized by a more casual, handcrafted appearance, with wooden cases and floral or geometric motifs.
Gingerbread Clocks: This style, which features intricate carvings and decorative elements like scalloped edges, ornate moldings, and small, detailed pieces, gained popularity in the mid- to late-19th century (around 1860 to 1880). Gingerbread clocks are often associated with the Victorian era and were typically mass-produced.

The case style is a strong indicator of the clock’s approximate age because clockmakers and manufacturers often adapted their designs to reflect contemporary tastes. By identifying the specific features of a clock’s case—such as the materials used, shape, and any distinctive decorative elements—you can narrow down the period in which it was made, which can then aid in dating the clock more precisely.

Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site — _{E Ingraham Huron C.1878}

Knowing the period when a case was made provides a reliable indicator of the clock’s age. Although there are earlier patent dates stamped on the movement of this E. Ingraham Huron time and strike 8-day shelf clock, this style of case was made for only 2 years, 1878 to 1880.

Date stamps on movements or cases & searchable databases

Some makers stamp date their movements or display the date elsewhere on the clock case. The Gilbert Clock Company often date-stamped their movements. Sessions put dates on the door labels.

Some makers such as Junghans stamp a date code on their movements. For example, B19 stamped on the back plate of a Junghans movement refers to a movement made in the latter half of 1919.

Serial numbers stamped on movements can be compared to a database to determine the exact year the clock was made. The Ridgeway clock company used 4-digit codes. For example, serial number 4981 refers to a Ridgeway clock made in 1981.

Gustav Becker clocks were made in both Silesia and Braunau factories, both of which produced clocks but each had a unique serial number convention. The serial number on a Gustav Becker clock will give the exact year of production assuming you know where it was made, Silesia or Braunau.

An online databases such as ClockHistory.com provides invaluable information on companies and models made by them, the years the clock company was in business, and how long the company was in operation.

Searchable databases like Mikrolisk, the horological trademark index help date a clock by comparing a trademark. Some companies revise or restyle their trademarks over the years allowing one to date a clock within a certain period.

At Antique-horology.org keywords or text can be used to search trademarks and identify years they were used.

The date 1848 is attributed to the clock above. I arrived at this date because it was made by William McLachlan of Newton Stewart, Scotland. According to an English clock database, Mr. McLachlan was a clock assembler and ran a clock-making business in Newton Stewart until his death in 1848. While the clock could have been assembled as early as 10 years prior, 1848 serves as a conservative estimate.

Other miscellaneous indicators

Plywood began to be used in clock cases starting in 1905. One of the clocks in my collection, a Junghans bracket clock, made around 1913, features a plywood back access door.

Seth Thomas made clocks in marble cases for a short time, from 1887 to about 1895. They also made clocks in iron cases finished in black enamel, from 1892 to about 1895.

Adamantine clocks were most popular through to 1915. Seth Thomas is best known for their “Adamantine” black mantel clocks, which were made starting in 1882. Adamantine is a celluloid veneer, glued to the wood case. Adamantine veneer was made in black and white, and in coloured patterns such as wood grain, onyx, and marble.

_{Seth Thomas} _{Adamantine clock circa 1911}

Final thoughts

My goal for this two-part article was to provide a broad, generalized overview. Each of the sub-topics mentioned above could be explored in much greater detail, and I hope this serves as a useful reference for some of you. I welcome any corrections to the dates, and if there’s anything I’ve missed or other information that should have been included, please feel free to leave a comment.

As I’ve outlined, there are many ways to date a clock—some methods are quite obvious, while others are more subtle and require a bit of research to pinpoint.

For some collectors and clock fans, dating a clock is crucial, as it adds historical context and value to the piece. For others, however, it may not be as important, especially if the clock serves primarily as a decorative item rather than a functional or collectible piece. In such cases, the aesthetic appeal might take precedence over its exact age.

April 26, 2022

Best clock acquisition of 2021

The time has come to determine the best clock acquisition of the past year. As a clock hobbyist, I have had little difficulty locating interesting clocks over the years, and despite the seemingly never-ending pandemic, I have scored a few in 2021 though the past year has been leaner than most.

In the early days of collecting, simple time and strike vintage mantel clocks were my principal focus so that I could take them apart, repair them if necessary, and generally advance my learning. Many of those clocks have been either sold or gifted. For the past three years, I have shifted my focus toward collecting interesting clocks, rare clocks, or clocks that have a special provenance that even includes the odd mantel clock.

My wife is my best clock finder. Our discussions often go something like this; “did you see that wall clock on Facebook?”. “Let me see. Yeah, it looks good, what do you think? Make an offer?” and off we go. Sometimes I will accept the offer from the seller without negotiating because I feel it is a fair price and other times there is some wheeling and dealing prior to firming the sale.

At the end of the post, you will have an opportunity to vote on what you think is the best in 2021.

In no particular order, here are my finds for 2021.

Sawin banjo clock

This is a garage sale find and even though it was purchased in the spring of 2021 it is still a work in progress. The clock is over 180 years old and in pretty decent shape.

It is a weight-driven banjo but it has no markings. An educated guess is that it was made by John Sawin of Boston or one of his associates on or close to 1840. I have completed minor veneer work on the case and have replaced the broken glass dial. The movement has been serviced but I am now looking at clock parts supply sources to replace a badly bent suspension spring. I want to avoid paying an outrageous price for the complete assembly; suspension spring, leader and spike.

Gilbert mantel or Shawville clock

I call this the Shawville clock because it spent most of its life in Shawville, Quebec (Canada).

It was a family clock for many years and following a death in the family, all possessions were either sold off or given away, a very common practice today. It has a time-and-strike Gilbert movement in a mahogany tinted case that has led a kind life since its manufacture in 1917. It is simple and unadorned and that’s what I love about it. I serviced the movement, cleaned the case, replaced a broken hour hand and now it is on prominent display in our home.

New Haven tall-case clock

An interesting $90 acquisition is this New Haven tall-case clock with a secret. Wow, a tall-case clock for $90, you say. Despite the look of a weight-driven clock, it is, in fact, a spring-driven clock. I was unaware of this until I walked through the door of the seller. I bought it anyway.

The weight cans are empty shells and they are simply there for show. The movement is quite large, eight-day, of course, and looks to be very robust. Despite my best efforts to determine if it was originally weight driven it had to have been spring-driven from the start, in other words, no evidence of a seat board or any additional holes for mounting the movement to the case. This appears to be an early “kit clock”, i.e. movement, dial face, hands, pendulum, “weights”, and ladder chains bought from the New Haven Clock Company and fitted to a pre-made case.

The case was very dark from years of accumulated dirt and grime and vigorous scrubbing revealed a wonderful red oak finish.

Waterbury Wren mantel clock

Another clock with a secret is actually a disappointment. I found it in an antique store and it reminded me of an Ansonia Syria I had worked on for a friend last year, so, I was drawn to it.

It has a Waterbury case and what I thought was a Waterbury movement, but no.

It is missing the brass bezel and glass which is easily replaced but what is most disappointing is the mismatched movement, a Seth Thomas time and strike, which obviously replaced the original movement presumably because it was worn out. The movement is well-made and runs well but at the end of the day, the clock is destined to be sold.

Schatz Schatz carriage clock

This is a Schatz carriage clock made by August Schatz and Sohne of Germany. Thousands of these were sold and given as gifts through the 60s and 70s. It has an interesting lower visible escapement and an exposed movement.

Although it is working and keeping time it runs for about 4 days and stops. A cleaning is called for (on my list). It has a wind-up key in the back much like a typical alarm clock. It says West Germany on the dial and made, I would say, in the 1970s. August Schatz and Sohne closed in 1985, a victim of slow sales and a shift to quartz clocks by other makers.

Chauncey Jerome ogee clock

This clock is original in many ways, with a nearly flawless case made of mahogany veneer over softwood, moon hands, a wood dial, and a movement that matches when the case was made. Even the pendulum bob looks original. It was missing the suspension spring and rod and a wooden movement block, all easily sourced.

It cleaned up nicely and was a good candidate for a fresh coat of traditionally prepared shellac. I have three other 30-hour ogee clocks and this one is the most original of the bunch.

E. Ingraham Grecian shelf clock

This is a very nice shelf clock from an estate auction. It is an Ingraham Grecian clock with an alarm feature. If you have ever used the alarm on an old antique clock your first impulse is to throw it through a window, it is so loud and it goes on and on till the spring winds down.

It came with incorrect hands and I had the darnedest time sourcing them but searching various suppliers in Canada and the US paid off. The case has been cleaned and the movement serviced including the infuriating alarm.

Fleet Time Co. mantel clock

An inexpensive clock that had huge potential but left me frustrated. Fleet Time Co. of Montreal had a short life of 4 years before the Second World war when they lost their source of German movements.

I stripped the case and re-glued some sections, applied a walnut stain and I was very pleased with the final result. I serviced the movement, wound the time side completely, and BAM, kerplunk! the sound of a mainspring exploding. Sometimes you can get away with just replacing a mainspring and other times, like this, it took out the barrel teeth and a leaf pinon on the second wheel. I placed it in a plastic bag and it is now on a shelf in the basement awaiting donor parts.

Hamburg American Clock Company. (HAC) mantel clock

This German-made mantel clock has an interesting 14-day movement, an early production type from HAC. HAC is short for the Hamburg American Clock Company, a German company which had a long history up to the time it was absorbed by Junghans in the late 1920s. This clock was made in or around 1895.

It was another estate sale find. The case is nondescript and nothing special, but quite elegant.

So…..

Tell me what you think and I will reveal what I believe is my best acquisition this year in the next post. Let’s see if we agree.

January 5, 2022

Veneer repairs on an 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice clock

This 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice time and strike shelf clock with sleigh front needed a little love. It has a Plymouth Lyre movement with a Thomaston Conn. label. The clock was made in the 1870s. and purchased five years ago and has been running since.

I will take you through my early days of veneer repair. It is probably not my best work but it was a fun and challenging project plus, there was good learning.

A previous owner had applied brown paint on areas of veneer loss, it looked ugly and when I saw that I decided the case could use a little tender loving care. Many of these clocks are in decent condition for their age but if you are shopping for column and cornice clock from this era take note of veneer losses. You may want to reconsider your decision to purchase if you feel it is not worth the time, effort and expense or if there us so much loss that it is unsightly.

Of course, there is always the school of thought that advocates leaving things as-is and that is perfectly fine. But, a little veneer work is minimally invasive, in my view.

Veneer issues

The most troublesome sections were the top and bottom of the case and the column base, not surprising since those are the prime targets of wear and tear over the years. Most of the cornice veneer is in good shape as are the door sections, door surrounds, and the sleighs just above the feet. Although there is work to be done, I have seen worse.

The veneer used at the time was Brazilian Rosewood, an exotic wood. Rosewood would have been used extensively by clock-makers of that era and replacement Rosewood veneer would be the correct choice. I have two 7 X 8 inch pieces of Rosewood veneer, more than enough for this project.

Prep-work and other case issues

The cornice on the left side was missing a section and that had to be attended to before the veneer work began.

Using scrap softwood I made a small piece and trimmed it roughly to fit. In this photo, I am testing the piece and making minor adjustments for a snug fit. The section is then glued in place and allowed to dry for 24 hours.

The top area of the front cornice is now ready to be faced with veneer.

The sections with brown paint had to be sanded down to the bare wood to improve adhesion before gluing the new veneer.

In selected areas, small sections of old veneer were removed to make way for larger replacement pieces.

I have decided not to tackle the columns. There are some losses but from a reasonable distance, they are fine.

Hide glue and Bloom strength

The one true adhesive for antique clock case applications is hide glue. Hide glue would have been utilized at the time the clock was manufactured.

I chose pearl hide glue which is rated at 150g Bloom strength (500g Bloom strength, the maximum, is not necessary for this type of repair). 150g hide glue takes a little longer to gel and adhere but with the slightly longer working time moving pieces around for best fit is easy.

To ready the adhesive place the container with the gelatinous glue in a bath of water in a pot specially designed for hide glue or a double boiler which worked equally well for me. Heat to approximately 140°F (60°C), using a candy thermometer and maintain the temperature throughout. Heating the wood surface with a hair dryer before applying the glue is an option. Full strength is reached when it’s dry, and that can take 24 hours.

An excellent article on hide glue and its strength properties can e found here.

It is best to start with a small batch. Put 2 tablespoons (30ml) of glue in a glass container and cover with 1 tablespoon (15ml) of cold water and let soak for about an hour or until the glue softens and becomes gelatinous. To make a larger batch simply follow the 2 to one rule. I recommend making small quantities, to begin with. If there is glue left over I find that it can be frozen and reused later with no ill effect.

Tools

Clamps, weights, tweezers, wax paper, a sharp knife, a metal straight-edge, painter’s tape, a micrometer, sandpaper, palm sander, and whatever you choose to use as a double boiler complete the list of tools.

A micrometer is an indispensable tool for accurate measurements. Accurate measurements ensure a good fit, minimize the use of fillers and lessen waste.

Cutting, trimming & clamping

The cutting of veneer can be tricky. Veneer is brittle, and can easily tear. Veneer today is quite different than veneer used 100+ years ago as it is very thin. On some clocks you must double-up or layer the veneer to approach the height of the original veneer. Another alternative, and a better option, is to harvest veneer from old clock cases. Old veneer is thicker, is very close to the look and feel of the original finish but just as brittle.

If old veneer is hard to work with, softening it with water will have a small and short-lived effect on a veneer’s flexibility. Another option is a product called Super-Soft 2, said to be ideal for softening veneer. For the little veneer work that I do I cannot justify the cost of a commercial softener and water is satisfactory for my purposes.

The next photo shows a veneer section glued and clamped into place. Wax paper is used to prevent the glue from sticking to the clamp. Clamps are essential for veneer repair but when clamps do not work other methods such as weights can be employed. Leave the clamp on for 24 hours for maximum adhesion.

Cutting can be a challenge since you must follow the grain and narrow strips can break very easily. Painters tape prevents tearing and is easily removed from the veneer prior to or after the application.

The most challenging areas were the very top and very bottom of the case and the column bases but after many hours the veneer work is now complete. The next step is colour matching the new to the existing veneer.

_{Top of cornice veneer} _{with new veneer}

Rosewood Minwax Gel stain is a close match to the older veneer but I would recommend experimenting with a coat of shellac first before applying a stain, in fact, a stain should be a last resort.

There is always good learning resulting from each project and in retrospect, I should have replaced the entire section under the left sleigh rather than cut two pieces of veneer to fit either side of the existing piece.

_{The completed case includes a repainted dial and replacement upper tablet}

As with any other project, there will always be a slight colour variance between old and new veneer and the goal, as always, is to come as close as possible to the original finish.

The last photo shows the completed clock with a repainted dial and a new middle tablet.

December 10, 2021

Waterbury Wren shelf clock – case refresh

I originally assumed this clock was a Seth Thomas since it had a Seth Thomas movement. After a thorough search on the web, I concluded that this was not a Seth Thomas case. I searched for clocks made by other clockmakers, starting with E.N Welch, Ansonia (because it is similar in style to the Syria), Gilbert, Sessions and finally Waterbury. The term “Waterbury cabinet clock” generated some hits. I found one on an auction site then, two more. I now have a case made by a different maker than the movement and in clock circles this is called a marriage.

The case is a Waterbury model called the “Wren”. I found three Wren models, two with paper dials and one with the identical dial pan as this clock. It may well be that this dial pan is original to the case.

Despite the fact that it is a marriage I might keep it. The case is attractive and the movement fits the case, although both the centre hole and regulator hole over the 12 look to have been bored out and not in a tidy way.

The dial has been cleaned and repainted.

Now to the case. It Stands 13 1/8″ Tall By 12 5/8″ Wide And 5 1/2″ deep. As of this writing if you search for this model you might see one or two without the top crown. It is easily detached and no surprise that it might go missing.

The case is in good shape with no parts missing however, the top finial on the right is not correctly aligned with the bottom column which I did not notice till I began cleaning the case. Evidently it had detached in the past and a past repairer glued it back not noticing the misalignment. It was simple matter of prying the finial off, regluing and centering it.

Two other pieces had to be reglued, a support piece for the crown and crosspiece in the back for one of the sides of the crown.

I cleaned the case with Murphy’s soap and following the scrubbing I decided that there was enough shellac worn off that a fresh coat would make the case much more appealing.

I applied traditional shellac, mixing amber flakes and alcohol with a broad artists brush. In the next shot you can see the difference between the left side of the crown and the right. I now have the option of leaving the finish as-is or aging it by “dulling” it with 4X0 steel wool.

In the next photo is the completed case.

To me it is a huge improvement.

All this is being done while the movement is undergoing testing and once the testing is complete the two, the case and the movement will be “married” again.

Now if I can find the matching glass and bezel it will be complete.

July 27, 2021

Servicing a Seth Thomas 8-day movement

I was attracted to the style of this clock but disappointed when I learned that it was a marriage of a Waterbury case with a Seth Thomas movement. Briefly, a marriage is when parts from two different makers come together.

Buying a clock from a flea market, antique mall, a shop or what have you is always a gamble. On this particular clock there is no trademark or name on the dial or a label in the back of the case that told me who the maker was. I made an assumption and it was an impulse buy.

While at the antique store I opened the back of the case to confirm that the clock had a movement and it was complete with pendulum bob and coiled gong and to me everything appeared correct until I brought it home. My first thought was an Ansonia movement when I looked at it under the dim light of the store.

Seth Thomas and other makers made similar cabinet style cases but this is the Wren by the Waterbury Clock Company. Being a marriage, the clock is worth much less to those particular about such matters. No matter, it looks attractive.

I can imagine a past owner’s conversation with the repair guy, I don’t care what you do, just make it work! And the repair guy responds by removing the very worn Waterbury movement and replacing it with a Seth Thomas. Easy peasy!

One of the current seller’s stickers on the case said it was a non-working clock but with minor adjustments, such as moving the pallets closer to the escape wheel and releasing the time-side mainspring, I had it running in no time. There is not much wrong with the movement and a good cleaning plus a bushing or two should put things right.

So, what did I buy?

As I said, I like the case and it has a decent movement but when a clock is a marriage one can expect some questionable repairs and interesting changes as one takes things apart.

I am not absolutely certain the dial pan came with the case or was added later but the glass and bezel are certainly from a mid-century mantel clock. It is so ugly it will be tossed into the spare parts drawer. I will keep the dial pan but a piecrust bezel with flat glass is more appropriate for the period.

Piecrust dial on a 6-column mantel clock

Seth Thomas time and strike 8-day movement

I removed the dial and discovered a number of extra screw holes here and there, varying lengths of screws, some screw holes filled with pieces of wood, even a couple of Robertson screws (not invented until after the First War) and so on. Obviously the replacement movement required new holes and why not drill a few extra holes for good measure!

The hole on the dial just above the 12 is larger than it should be. It was either enlarged to accommodate the regulating arbour or it’s a new hole altogether.

On a positive note both the case and the movement are from a similar period.

Disassembling the movement

But this post is about servicing the movement.

I am impressed with the engineering of this Seth Thomas movement. It is robust and well-designed though it has an interesting, overly complicated, speed regulating feature.

From my research I found that the hip style movement is the type 44 which was used for a 12 year period beginning in 1890. In 1903 it was presumably replaced with the type 89 movement, simpler to manufacture, fewer parts and more reliable, and appeared in many thousands of ST mantel clocks afterwards. It has a sickle shaped brass piece between the plates so that the clock can be turned backwards repeatedly at the hour to sync the strike with the hands. It is technically called a set-back counter weight.

Regulating arbour with worm gear on one end

There were variations of this movement, front winding movements as opposed to rear winding, with and without the worm gear speed regulator and some with stop works. This movement does not have Geneva stops.

It took me more time than usual to pry open the plates because I was slowed down by the intricacy of regulating mechanism. Part of the mechanism consists of a long arbour that passes from the front plate to the back plate. At one end is a worm gear and on the other is the regulating end. It is secured to the outside of the front plate by means of a spring with a pin through the arbour. To release the arbour, the pin must be pulled and the spring releases.

Well, actually the spring flew across the room. No problem, I’m used to crawling on the floor looking for clock parts.

I have worked on a lot of American time and strike movements but this type of regulating mechanism is a first for me. In fact, the set-back counter weight is also a first for me.

Analysis of the movement

The movement has had 12 bushings installed, 5 on the front plate and 7 on the back. The work is well done but I don’t like the arrows scratched into the plate indicating where each bushing would be installed. I use a Sharpie pen and after I have completed the bushing work I wipe the marks off with alcohol. There is no need to mar the plates.

Arrow indicating scratch mark below bushing

After looking over the movement carefully I can see there is enough wear in some bushings that they must be replaced, both second wheels, front plate, the governor, both front and back and the escape wheel bridge bushing which for some reason has punch marks around it, the only unsightly repair.

The mainsprings look to be in good shape and still bears the original ST trademarks. No worn gear teeth and the pivots, plus the lantern pinions are all in great shape.

All in all, not bad for a movement that was last serviced quite a number of years ago.

The pivots were polished and next is the bushing work. Two were interesting to say the least.

The count count wheel and the strike pin wheel are side by side. A bushing was required for the pin wheel but I could not access it from inside the plate. This is one of those few times when drilling from the outside is the only way however, I was able to push the bushing home from the inside plate. It is one of those situation where you have to stand back, analysis the problem and consider a strategy. It worked.

The second was the escape wheel bridge. To stabilize the bridge a 5-step block jig comes in handy. Otherwise, it is very difficult to keep the bridge steady and drill a straight hole.

The drilling went fine until the last 3.47 mm cutter. When I began to drill out the hole the old bushing came out. I knew right away that the new bushing would not have a tight fit. Evidently a past repairer had the same problem.

The block from a staking set is a useful tool. With it I was able to lay the plate down on it and punch the bushing from the inside to stabilize it.

Once together everything fell into place or so I thought. Unfortunately, I will have to take it apart again because I forgot the regulating worm gear which can only be installed with the plates separated. The movement will run perfectly fine without it, but it is part of the clock.

In the meantime the movement is running well.

June 19, 2021

A marriage of two makers, Waterbury and Seth Thomas

This clock is an antique store find not too far from where I live. It was high on a shelf and the price was not visible. I asked the shopkeeper to take it down so that I could check the price ($40) and verify that it had a mechanical movement.

I opened the back panel, quickly glanced at the movement and the trademark stamp appeared to be Ansonia. I had worked on an Ansonia Syria shelf clock in the past year and it looked quite similar but it was an odd looking movement for an Ansonia. Ansonia movements generally have an arched plate, this one had a hump. No matter, I bought it.

While at home I was able to examine the clock more closely.

What did I buy?

I discovered that the movement is made by the Seth Thomas Clock Co. not by Ansonia. The movement was made for about 12 years and was available from 1890 to 1902. The style of the case is also from the same period.

An exhaustive search of Seth Thomas clocks on the internet using keywords such as, shelf, parlour (parlor), cabinet, carved oak and mantel produced nothing. I then navigated to a well-known Seth Thomas database site, poured through hundreds of listings and again, zilch.

I began to realize that the case might not have been made by Seth Thomas, after all.

However, I was determined to find the maker. I searched for clocks made by other companies, starting with E.N Welch, Ansonia (because it is similar in style to the Syria), Gilbert, Sessions and finally Waterbury. When I used the term “Waterbury cabinet clock” I found it on an auction site. So, now I have a case made by a different maker than the movement.

What is a marriage?

Among clock circles it is generally accepted that if a clock has significant parts from another source, particularly the movement and put into a period correct case from a different maker, it is considered a marriage. If it has parts sourced from a number of other clocks it is a Frankenstein or Frankenclock. While this clock is not quite a Frankenclock it is certainly a marriage.

I am actually disappointed that this clock is a marriage

The case is a Waterbury model called the “Wren”. I found three Wren models, two with paper dials and one with the identical dial pan as my clock. It may well be that this dial pan is original to the case.

The concave brass bezel and glass are certainly more recent. When I first looked at the clock I knew that the brass bezel and glass were incorrect but that did not stop me from buying the clock. The original bezel would have been a piecrust design with flat glass. This glass bezel is from a 1930s vintage clock.

The back access door is made of plywood, a recent addition and, of course, there is no label. The original panel would have been made of solid wood and screwed to the sides of the case with a circular tin access port. The label would have been located on the outside under the port door or underneath the base,

Does the movement run?

The movement is complete with pendulum bob and ST key. It was sold as a non-running clock, but will the clock run?

While the movement was still in its case I applied mainspring oil to the tight mainspring, allowing a few minutes for penetration. I then removed the verge so that the time train would run freely, using my finger as a brake on the escape wheel. It was sluggish at first but eventually the sticky time side mainspring made several soft clunking sounds as it ran down.

You can see the very tight time-side mainspring in the next photo. Grime and built-up dirty oil over the years will seize a mainspring.

Once the mainspring was partially let down I reattached the verge and the clock would stop after a minute or so. There was definitely power going to the escape wheel but something else was amiss. It would skip a tooth or two with every rotation which told me that the pallets were too far from the escape wheel. There is an adjustment screw on an arm which allows the pallets to be moved closer (or further) to the escape wheel. I eventually found the correct distance and the clock began to run normally. At the same time I opened the crutch loop wider to allow more impulse.

This is certainly no substitute for an overhaul but a good diagnostic tool.

Meanwhile, the strike side ran perfectly.

The movement is running and keeping good time but it needs a cleaning and several wear issues addressed.

Seth Thomas 8-day time and strike movement

Next steps?

I am actually disappointed it is a marriage. Buying a clock is always a risk and if I had paid many times more for this clock I would have asked for my money back.

I am not sure what I am going to do with it but I am inclined to service it and perhaps put it on the market. If I sold it I would certainly disclose the fact that it has a period correct replacement movement from another maker.

Nevertheless, it would make an attractive clock once the case is cleaned, the movement is properly serviced and has the correct glass and bezel.

And, if I like it enough I might keep it.

May 9, 2021

Seth Thomas #2 has stopped – cleaning and bushing work should put it right

Perhaps recognizable as one of the most common regulator clocks in America, the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was found in many railway stations, offices. libraries and other public places across America during the last century, a testament to its accuracy and dependability. It is a robust, accurate, well-engineered, and dependable timepiece that was made by Seth Thomas from 1860 to 1950, a run of 90 remarkable years. Few clocks can claim that kind of longevity.

It is an iconic American clock and every serious clock collector wants one.

This particular clock was made between 1922 and 1929 and has a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2. It has Arabic numbers with spade hands. The bow-tie between the wood dial bezel and the drop is one piece while earlier versions had a 3-piece “bow-tie”. It has a seconds hand 2 inches above the center cannon. However, it is not a true seconds hand and runs off the escapement taking 80 beats to complete the “minute”. All but the earliest #2s had the pendulum mounted in the rear.

It is 36 ½ inches tall and veneered in mahogany. It has 77A stamped on the bottom right of the movement with the letter “K” underneath and has a small ST stamp near the middle of the front plate. Some versions of the 77 have lantern pinions while this has cut or leaf pinions.

It has stopped – it needs a cleaning and perhaps a bushing or two

Lately, the clock has been stopping intermittently. I would nudge the clock along and it would run 5-10 minutes at a time and stop. I replaced the suspension spring and all seemed good as the clock ran for a couple of weeks. I thought I had addressed the issue but it began to stop again!

I bought the clock three years ago. It was oiled shortly after I received it but it has not been serviced and now it is telling me that servicing is long overdue.

The movement is relatively simple in that it has 4 wheels. I disassembled the movement, pegged the pivot holes, and re-assembled it. There is wear but I have seen far worse in clocks that continue to run well. However, It appears that this movement does not tolerate wear.

Very disturbing are the aggressive, deep punch marks around most of the pivot holes. Punching around pivot holes to close them might have been an acceptable practice many years ago, but not today. The repair is crude and unprofessional.

The leaf pinions are in very good condition, wheel teeth look good and the verge has minimal wear.

Servicing the movement

In total up to 6 bushings are required.

I also discovered a slightly bent third-wheel arbour that did not take much effort to straighten.

Despite its apparent simplicity the parts are made to close tolerances and any wear has the potential to stop the clock. I don’t think this is a good movement for the novice clock repairer.

I installed three bushings on the backplate; the second, third wheels, and the escape wheel, and two on the front; third wheel, the escape wheel, and the verge pivot hole front plate.

The movement is clean, shiny, and mounted in the case for testing and minus the motion works gears.

Despite the fact that I have 4 movement test stands, none are appropriate for this movement because of the iron bracket onto which the movement and pendulum are mounted. I suppose I could probably adapt something. For now, into the case it goes for testing.

After three weeks the clock is running very well.

While the movement was out of the case I replaced both the maintaining power spring and the old cable with 3/64 inch brass weight cable. The brass cable has one feature I really like, a nylon core that prevents it from coiling. I also gave the pendulum bob and weight a polishing.

Cleaning and bushing work put the clock right. After the wear issues were addressed the clock not only runs better but polishing the brass improves its appearance.

April 9, 2021

A veneer repair can make a difference on a Seth Thomas shelf clock

A small piece of veneer is missing from the bezel of this Seth Thomas shelf clock

Among the most respected and prolific American clockmakers is the Seth Thomas Clock Co. of America. Every collector I know has at least one Seth Thomas clock in their collection.

My modest collection consists of six Seth Thomas clocks representing several styles, all unique and from the period 1865 to 1930.

This is a Seth Thomas time and hour strike large round top (model name or number unknown) made in the 1870s. For first impressions of this clock, go here.

Seth Thomas round top shelf clock, veneer missing top left of the door frame

This shelf clock was purchased at the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors conference in Springfield Ma. in June of 2019.

The clock case is in such remarkable condition it would be a shame to ignore that one small blemish and once you see the missing veneer the eye is always drawn to it

The clock measures 15 inches in height, 10 inches wide at the base and 4 inches deep. The attractive Rosewood veneered case has a mirrored rectangular lower tablet. The grain of the Brazilian Rosewood is bold and nicely textured. However, a sliver of the veneer is missing between the 9 and 12 o’clock position of the dial bezel which, in my view, is repairable. My wife did not notice this until I pointed it out.

A previous owner attempted to hide the missing veneer by tinting the exposed area.

Continue reading “A veneer repair can make a difference on a Seth Thomas shelf clock” →

January 22, 2020

Inpainting a Seth Thomas clock dial – Part 1

This is Part I of a two part series. Part one covers the first three steps in renewing a Seth Thomas clock dial. In Part II the decorative corner design is restored.

Seth Thomas column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike weight driven shelf clock, as found

Inpainting is the process of reconstructing lost or deteriorated parts of a clock dial. In the museum world, in the case of a valuable painting, this task would be carried out by a skilled art conservator or art restorer. Inpainting, as opposed to repainting and restoring the entire dial, renews the dial using a few simple techniques.

Some of the methods can be found in T. E. Temple’s excellent resource book entitled Extreme Restoration.

Continue reading “Inpainting a Seth Thomas clock dial – Part 1” →

August 2, 2019

Buying an antique clock – how to

This post explores buying tips for novice antique clock buyers. Those looking for an antique clock in general rather than a specific type or model of an antique mechanical clock will find the following tips very useful.

Vintage versus antique

According to the United States Government publications, the term “antique” is reserved for valuables that are over a century old. Webster’s dictionary defines an antique as a work of art, piece of furniture, or decorative object made at an earlier period and according to various customs laws at least 100 years ago. Wikipedia defines the word antique as applying to objects at least 100 years old.

Restored Seth Thomas antique column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike weight driven shelf clock circa 1865

According to eBay, vintage is a defined period from 1920 to 1969. The use of the word vintage in online auctions and elsewhere is becoming more and more like the word “rare”. Some may define “vintage” as anything that was purchased less than 24 hours ago, is dirty and worn, or looks like it might be old if you know nothing about its history. Sellers often do not know anything about what they are selling and often describe the item as “vintage”.

Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time wall clock circa 1930

The word “collectible” is also used, just like the word vintage has been misused. Just about anything sold these days is marketed as a collectible if not vintage. Most serious buyers would agree that when it comes to clocks younger than 100 years old but older than 30 they are considered vintage and collectible is anything within 30 years.

Antique clock buying tips

Buying a clock without actually touching and inspecting it is always a gamble and making a judgment based on online images, most of which are of poor quality, complicates the decision-making even further. The sad stories of people who thought they bought an antique clock with a mechanical movement only to find a quartz one when the clock arrived at their door are not fiction. This and other examples are the many challenges facing the antique clock shopper in today’s online world.

I am not a firm believer in purchasing an antique clock online based on images unless one is very familiar with and respects the reputation of the seller. Although you may find that special clock online my advice is to see the clock in the flesh prior to making your final decision.

Questions you might ask yourself prior to the purchase

Will I get my money’s worth? Will I be “ripped off”?
Will it work when I get it home?
What do I have to do to fix it if something is wrong and what could I pay to fix it?
What did the seller not disclose? What are the little surprises that await me when I get home?

“Life is a box of chocolates….you never know what you are going to get”, Forest Gump

3 Simple rules for antique clock buying

Here are 3 simple rules on how to buy that special antique clock you’ve always wanted.

1. Locate the antique clock

The style and type of antique clock is a personal preference. I prefer wall clocks over mantel clocks, parlour over gingerbreads, and Ogees over cottage clocks.
If it is a local online inquiry meet with the seller to finalize the sale. If the clock is found in an antique shop or antique mall you will not be dealing with the seller (there are exceptions) but an agent who may know absolutely nothing about the clock.
Avoid Chinese or Korean clocks often advertised as “31-day” clocks. Although they are normally reliable runners, clock-makers will tell you that they are not worth fixing. None are antiques.

2. Ask a lot of questions

Does the clock run?
- A running clock has more value than a non-running example. Ask the seller to demonstrate a running clock.
Who is the maker (manufacturer)?
- Manufacturers make both inexpensive and quality clocks (there are exceptions). Seth Thomas, a respectable American clock-maker manufactured inexpensive clocks that have little value and higher-end models that are very desirable by collectors. The name alone does not always equate to value.
Has the clock been altered in any way?
- Newer case pieces, decorations, new glass, refinished case, a replacement movement, a replacement pendulum, etc. will reduce the value and sometimes significantly.

If it does not run, are all the parts intact?
- If it has all the parts, can it be repaired either by you, the buyer, or a competent repair person? I know of a time and strike clock that was missing the strike side gears.
How old is it?
- Again, vintage or antique. A clock made in 1919 is now an antique.
- Does the clock have provenance, an interesting and verifiable history?
How long has the seller had it?
- A cherished family heirloom has more value than an item recently acquired for a quick profit.
Would you accept a lower price?
- Point out specifically why the price should be reduced, missing pieces, non-running, poor condition.

3. Deal directly with the seller

By dealing with the seller in person you will always have the opportunity to walk away if you are not satisfied.

Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock Ca. 1899

Not every antique clock is rare or valuable and some clocks are more desirable than others. That 150-year-old 30-hour Ogee is not as valuable as you might think but a much younger vintage French figural style clock may be worth a lot more.

If you are looking for a very specific type or model of antique clock you will find that it takes time and research to find it but there will be a satisfying reward once found.

June 29, 2019

Seth Thomas mantel clock – detailing makes a difference

This Victorian period Seth Thomas mantel clock was in very good condition when I bought it close to 20 years ago. It sat on an upright piano until it was serviced in December 2017.

Image from October 2000, atop a Willis upright piano

During servicing 4 bushings were installed. The clock was then relocated to another room.

The clock would certainly benefit from detailing

The model is not actually called the Adamantine. Adamantine is a chemical process applied to the clock case and it was meant to be an inexpensive alternative to onyx or marble. An expensive looking clock for the masses! Adamantine veneer was developed by the Celluloid Manufacturing Company of New York City in 1880 and the Seth Thomas Clock Company purchased the rights to use Adamantine veneer in 1881.

I have seen many Adamantine clocks on online sites and antique shops and on some the scroll detailing is visible which leads me to think that the gold coloured paint that once filled the detail on this clock case and others has been long gone.

Continue reading “Seth Thomas mantel clock – detailing makes a difference” →

May 17, 2019

Happy Birthday Sir Sanford Fleming, the inventor of Standard Time

Happy Birthday Sir Sanford Fleming, the inventor of Standard Time.

Sir Sanford Fleming (January 7, 1827 – July 22, 1915) was Canada’s foremost railway surveyor and construction engineer of the 19th century and a distinguished inventor and scientist.

Sir Sanford Fleming played a crucial role in developing a global system for setting time. Fleming advocated the adoption of a standard or mean time and hourly variations from that according to established time zones. He was instrumental in convening the 1884 International Prime Meridian Conference in Washington, at which the system of international standard time – still in use today – was adopted.

Pinwheel regulator designed for railroads, NAWCC museum

Many regions of Canada and the US observed local time and when coast to coast rail systems were constructed a unified time system was identified as a necessity. In the United States, the problems were severe, with one table showing over 100 local times in one region varying by more than 3 hours.

The first proposal for a consistent treatment of time worldwide was a memoir entitled “Terrestrial Time” by Fleming. Fleming was, at the time, the chief engineer of the Canadian Pacific Railroad, presented a proposal to the Canadian Institute in 1876. He produced modified proposals using the Greenwich meridian. Fleming’s two papers were considered so important that in June 1879 the British Government forwarded copies to eighteen foreign countries and to various scientific bodies in England.

Seth Thomas Regulator #2, a common railway clock

On 11 October 1883, two years after the invention of the toilet paper roll,

a convention of railroad executives met in Chicago and agreed to the implementation of five time zones in North America, using as a basis, Greenwich Mean Time. Standard time was introduced at noon on 18 November 1883 across the nation though it was not legally established until 1918.

As we celebrate Sir Sanford Fleming’s birthday it is important to reflect on his contribution to the construct of organizing time; something all of us take for granted in our daily lives.

January 7, 2019

Best clock moments of 2018

2018 was a successful year for my horological hobby in many ways. I met interesting people with fascinating stories, discovered new antique clock sources and had fun along the way. The best clock moments, in no specific order, during 2018 were:

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton

Finding an Arthur Pequegnat Moncton double-spring time-only wall clock was a big plus. This clock has been on my wish list for 5 years and I finally found one in excellent condition and the price was within my budget. This brings to seven Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my collection.

Seth Thomas #2 Regulator

The Seth Thomas #2 has been on my wish list for 5 years as well. This single weight-driven, time-only wall clock is from the 1920s. It is Mahogany veneered and like the Moncton is in very good condition. It is now hung in my front entry way.

August Schatz & Sohne W3 shelf clock

In August 2017 I asked for help finding a case for my Schatz movement after locating it in an antique store. Little did I realize that I would eventually have that case.

This is the result when you ask a 90 year old cabinet maker and joiner from Virginia to make a case for an August Schatz & Sohne W3 triple chime movement.

A special thanks to all those who commented on articles and those who send me letters concerning their particular clock problem

Selling clocks

I sold two clocks this year not because I did not like or appreciate them but I must pare down my collection to allow space for new acquisitions. The Juba Schatz “bim-bam” time and strike mantel clock was one

and the other, a Mauthe Westminster mantel clock.

Acquiring new tools

Aside from small hand tools acquired this year, the most significant purchase was an L&R Ultrasonic cleaner which does a terrific job of cleaning clock parts.

Setting up and organizing my workshop

I managed to create space in my basement for an area to work on clock cases and other related woodworking tasks. A new drill press is on the far bench to the left.

Cuckoo clock

My first cuckoo clock was a gift from my cousin this past year. It is in good working order but it will need a new set of bellows which will be one of my summer projects in 2019.

Antiquevintageclock.com

I am pleased that my blog has also been very successful with over 93,000+ total views. I would like to thank all those who commented on articles and those who sent me letters concerning their particular clock issue.

I look forward to this new year and I am sure that 2019 will be an equally successful year as I further my horological pursuits.

January 3, 2019

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Building the Shelf

Checking for the Correct Beat

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The clock case is in such remarkable condition it would be a shame to ignore that one small blemish and once you see the missing veneer the eye is always drawn to it

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“Life is a box of chocolates….you never know what you are going to get”, Forest Gump

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A special thanks to all those who commented on articles and those who send me letters concerning their particular clock problem

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