This banjo clock project has been an ongoing challenge for nearly a year, a very enjoyable one that has taught me so much.
The movement has been serviced, 4 new bushings installed, the case has been cleaned, veneer issues addressed on the two bottom corners, a new post was made for the final, dial glass has been replaced, the hands rubbed down with steel wool to remove rust, the bottom section of the rails on both sides re-glued, some flat-head screws replaced (with smaller flat-head screws taken from old cases) and the old brass cable was removed and replaced. The dial was left untouched.
There is a simplicity about the case design that I really like.
Veneer missing on two bottom corners
The old and tired suspension spring should be replaced. I cannot source the spring alone but I am reluctant to pay for an entire pendulum assembly. It has been straightened and it works well for now.
The last step is addressing the crack in the wood dial bezel.
Cracked bezel
The age crack is just above the number eleven on the dial. It was likely cracked long before I bought it.
Hot hide glue was used to close the gap but the repair did not work. The hot hide glue has a low bonding strength and it separated after just a few weeks (a dry house in the winter does not help).
I had difficulty closing the gap with string and ecstatic bands so, I purchased a band clamp designed for furniture repair, so let’s see how that goes.
Clock sans dial bezel
A band clamp might just be the ticket but there is always the risk of the bezel splitting again, perhaps not in the same place. Option two, which I prefer not to exercise at this time, is to fill in the crack and simply live with a slightly larger bezel that may not fit the dial door catch exactly.
There were many choices on Amazon and I selected one of slightly better quality.
When the clamp arrived, rather than apply the glue immediately I clamped it unglued for about a week theorizing that memory in the wood would be retained when glued. Yep, just a theory! In addition, if it were to crack in a different place that would have been the time it would happen.
Since hot hide glue was simply not strong enough I used glue with a much higher bonding strength, Gorilla glue, because it will hold. Perhaps hide glue with a higher bonding strength might have worked but I just don’t have that on hand. I am usually a stickler for authentic methods but sometimes a more modern glue is the only option.
Wolfcraft band clamp
Wax paper is used to prevent any residual glue from sticking to the band and the surface the bezel rests on. The curing time is 24 to 36 hours, the reason for the sticky note. It cured for almost 48 hours. Enough time I would think.
Two large flat-head slotted screws for the hinge hold the wood bezel in place and on went the bezel.
Completed project
And the result after 10 months of working in stages, is a complete and functional banjo clock that, in my view, looks absolutely stunning.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
S. writes;
This clock was in My grandparent’s home since the 30’s (I think). My dad (he’s 96) seems to recall my grandfather winding the clock every day, but I just want to make sure. Can you tell me anything about the clock? Thanks for any info you can provide.
My reply:
It looks like a Junghans 8-day Westminster chime bracket style clock, made in Germany. If you open up the back door do you see a trademark on the back of the movement. Take a photo if you can and send it to me. You do not have to take anything apart to see the trademark. Does the gong have a name on it?
Perhaps he wound it every day because it was part of his ritual but it only requires winding once per week.
S. writes back:
Wow! I didn’t see it before!
Junghans trademarkBack of Junghans movement
S. writes back:
How do I see when it was made?
My reply:
The number below the trademark is A20 which means that it was made in the first 6 months of 1920.
I am an avid collector of antique and vintage clocks which means I cruise the online auction sites regularly, about once or twice a week. This spring I checked out offerings from a local online auction site that deals with estate items, placed bids on 4 clocks (actually 5 since one lot had two clocks). The one I did not win was a 6 column Sessions mantel clock but no real loss there.
I won the bids on four clocks. CDN110 was the total though with buyers’ premium and taxes the price jumped to CDN147, still not bad for a small collection of antique clocks.
I do not have these clocks as of this writing since they are sitting at the auction house but I think can make a preliminary judgment based on what I see in the auction photos.
Although I am normally not in the business of selling clocks I will sell the odd one to keep my collection manageable. The plan is to fix these clocks and sell them to offset clock equipment purchases most notably an Adams Brown Timetrax 185, an electric clock timer, an amplifier that measures the rate of mechanical clocks by sensing escapement action and mechanical sounds of the escapement which I recently purchased. Here they are.
Unknown cottage clock
In no particular order of importance let’s start with an octagon cottage clock from the 1870s or 80s. It is a 30-hour clock judging from the placement of the winding points.
With pendulum and key
From the style of the pendulum bob and the case itself, I would say an E. Ingraham & Co. time and strike cottage clock. Some would have come with an alarm. This one does not.
Side view
It is in fair shape. The dial appears to have serious losses and there are nicks and scratches over a good portion of the case from what I see in the photos. I wonder if the tablet is a replacement and the original reverse painted?
It is difficult to tell with the harsh auction light but the case might be made of rosewood.
Decorative pendulum
It will be a good candidate for a mild refresh and should look very nice when completed.
Sessions Grand Assortment #3
Next is a Sessions Grand Assortment #3. I have worked on one in the past. There are three models in the Grand Assortment series and despite the fact that it is a lowly gingerbread clock and thousands of similarly styled clocks were sold by every major American clock manufacturer, this model is surprisingly collectible.
It is an 8-day clock with a steam-pressed oak case. The case looks very “aligorated” a term applied to a shellac finish that has coagulated as a result of being stored in a hot, humid environment such as an attic or a garage.
The dial is in poor condition
The tablet looks good but the dial is very degraded. This is a paper-on-metal dial and when the metal below the paper rusts the stain bleeds through to the front. This is called “foxing”. These stains are very difficult to remove and cost-prohibitive for most clocks. This is a cheap clock and a dial replacement is the only option and as such, I am not sure what to do about it.
A note is attached to the key and it says 1903. It is doubtful it was actually made in that year and I am sure the previous owner went by the year Sessions Clock Co. acquired clock-maker E.N. Welch Co. though the clock is certainly from around that period.
With a note from the previous owner
Reconditioning the case might be a challenge. Is it a candidate for stripping down to the bare wood? I suspect it is but we’ll see. I also see a small crack just above the top of the dial, so it might have been broken off at one point and re-glued.
I am not sure about the pendulum bob which does not look quite right for this clock. More research should provide me with the answer.
E Ingraham Ocean and Ansonia kitchen/parlour clock
Next is a two-for-one deal.
A duo of clocks
The one on the left is an E. Ingraham steam-pressed 8-day gingerbread possibly from the Ocean series. Unfortunately, it is missing its decorative tablet and that will certainly affect its resale value.
The pendulum looks right for the clock and the case itself looks to be in decent shape but as I said, it is very unfortunate that the tablet is missing.
Pieces of a clock
The pieces at the foot of the gingerbread clock belong to the clock on the right. Usually, when I see pieces like this it tells me that it was handled roughly by the auction house.
What I like about this clock is its timeless design, almost Art Deco but made long before the Art Deco period.
So who is the maker of the clock on the right?
Unknown parlour clock
The auction description simply says, “unknown clock”. I believe it is an Ansonia 30-hour (position of the winding arbours) kitchen clock in Walnut from about the early 1880s. The tablet is bright and vivid, not a design I have seen before but likely original. Attaching the top pieces should be a fairly simple process and thorough cleaning of the clock case clock and movement should make it an ideal candidate for resale.
Of the four, two are 30-hour clocks. I have found that 30-hour clocks are a tough sell. Most casual collectors are looking for an 8-day clock since 1-day clocks are a hassle to wind but I think I can make both presentable enough to attract some buyers.
The auction notes do not say whether any of these are in working order. They are all “untested” which is typical auction-speak for “they may or may not work – the risk is yours!”.
American clocks are very tough and often work well despite being very worn. I suspect with a little encouragement I can get all of these clocks working again.
Now, to pick them up from the auction house.
Check for upcoming articles on each of these clocks.
There is a thin line between restoring a clock case to its former glory and ruining it forever. While the intent is to make them look like the day they were made, many clocks get stripped and poorly refinished and the results are beyond sad.
Although there is much debate in the world of antique furniture about what is appropriate, in serious antique clock circles, it is never a good practice to remove a finish that has aged well. Original surfaces and their preservation is the concern of every serious clock collector and some clocks must be left untouched.
There are certainly clocks that must be refinished, but that is often a process that is not well understood or practiced.
Clocks that sometimes end up on my workbench suffer from extreme neglect. They are usually found in an attic or barn, covered in filth. My first decision is whether or not they are worth saving and if so, what steps should be taken, what additional parts are required, where can they be sourced and what is the expected outcome.
A $5 barn findwith a finish that is completely gone
Perhaps the best example is a $5 Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock saved from the trash heap.
The same clock, while not perfect, is a survivorand runs daily in my office
Even the movement, complete with rusty mainspring, has found a new lease on life.
A very rusty movement that most would throw out or harvest for parts
The intent was never to save it for re-sale purposes but as a test bed for case refinishing and movement repair.
The same movement,cleaned, wear issues addressed and on the test stand
My approach is to either leave it completely untouched (other than a soap and water cleaning) or go full on, there is no half measure. Some clocks require the full treatment whereas others can be left completely as-is.
This single-weight Vienna Regulator from about 1880 had the movement serviced and the brass polished. Otherwise, the original finish was preserved and that is to be expected of a clock that has been well cared for during its life. There is no requirement to refinish this clock.
Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock
The value of a clock that has been poorly refinished is severely diminished. When destroyed by well-meaning folks they have little to no value. More is lost in so-called refinishing than many well meaning people realize. However, when the ravages of time, environment, and neglect have taken their toll refinishing is justified.
Another example of a complete restoration.
Literally a box of parts
Junghans Crispi spring driven wall clock circa 1895 .
The same clock, with new parts, refinished, movement serviced
Although some are faded now, many antiques had a near piano finish when new and the finish has simply aged. Like furniture, they are admired for their original finish and polishing brass, like silver, would have been practiced on a regular basis if the clock were still in a home. Antiques must be cleaned regularly and maintained properly so that they may last.
However, correct refinishing of a case is a long and involved process that includes the filling of all the pores in the wood, cleaning sharp edges on corners, the use of traditional glue, fashioning parts from similar wood material used at the time, cleaning the various recesses, staining wood when originally stained, artificially grained when done so originally, painted when originally painted, gessoed gold-leafed details when gold-leafed was present originally, sourcing authentic replacement parts to name a few considerations.
Too many clocks are ruined by well meaning people and that is sad.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
GB writes:
Yesterday I pick up another strange clock and the dial has a monogram/mark: EJS, after searching it turns out to stand for E. J. Swigart but that company, from what I read, didn’t make clocks, just replacement parts so am I to assume the clock, images below, has a replacement dial/face? Does it diminish its esthetic value? I was told it is 1840 ogee. Miraculously enough it works!
Ogee clockSwigart replacement dial
My reply:
You are correct. E. J. Swigart made parts for jewelers and watchmakers but they are best known for their replacement dials. Their logo is often confused with the Sessions Clock Co. or Seth Thomas. Swigart are respected for their dials and their commitment to making them as original as possible. They operated into the 1970s (the trademark was registered in 1896). I don’t believe it would diminish the value of your clock, after all, the replacement dial might be over 100 years old!
GB writes back;
Splendid! Thank you again. Your help and advice are priceless.
I have written about this clock several times in the past 10 months but I am making good progress which I will detail in this article.
This is how it arrived at my house last spring, dull and lifeless but with good bones and most everything original.
Dirty and dusty and ready for restoration
First, some background information about the clock.
This federal-style banjo clock was made in the 1840s perhaps as early as 1840. I am reasonably certain it was made by John Sawin of Boston, by either himself or one of his apprentices or associates.
The movement and case construction bears a strong resemblance to a Willard timepiece and there is a good reason for this as John Sawin apprenticed under Simon Willard and was a journeyman under Aaron Willard, famous clockmakers of the day and makers of the original patent timepiece.
The movement which is based on the patent timepiece by S. Willard
Unfortunately, there are no identifying markings on the movement or the case but key indicators such as the placement of the movement mounting “ears” and the design of the door and bezel catches tell me that there is a very strong connection to John Sawin, enough to say that he is the clockmaker.
So far…
I have completed repairs on the case aside from the wood bezel mentioned later in this post. The repairs include new veneer pieces, harvested from an old mahogany ogee clock, a new post for the acorn finial, and two applications of traditionally prepared shellac.
The hands are attached to measure timekeeping
The movement has been cleaned, serviced and wear issues addressed.
The glass dial was broken and new flat glass was ordered and installed. The old weight cable was replaced.
The dial, with some stains and discoloring, will be left as-is.
Three issuesthat have slowed me down
The three issues are a weight cable that is too short, a twisted suspension spring, and a cracked wood bezel.
Weight cable that is too short: The clock stops when the weight is three inches from the bottom of the case and runs six days instead of the usual eight. I have run the clock several times and the clock consistently stops on the 6th day. I believe that the brass cable was frayed from wear and a previous owner shortened the cable rather than buy a new one. I have various sizes of cable and have chosen a slightly thicker brass cable with a nylon core. The nylon core prevents the cable from snarling and coiling plus the more robust cable is more than enough to carry the heavy iron weight.
However, a thicker cable results in a double layer. The cord will wind down from the top layer and the diameter of the drum has been increased due to the first layer. This means that with each turn more length of the cord will be removed from the top layer. Thus, the weight will reach the bottom of the case sooner than intended, reducing the runtime. A thicker cord makes it even worse. I believe I have struck the correct balance between thickness and length as the clock now runs its full 8-day cycle. Had the cable been any thicker the runtime would increase.
Since it had to be taken apart to install the new cable I cleaned the pivots, pegged out the pivot holes, and re-oiled the movement. Problem solved.
The Keystone
Twisted suspension spring: The keystone is the piece between the suspension spring and the pendulum leader. It very nearly hits the large wheel of the motion works on the left side as a result of a twist in the suspension spring. A bent spring is a consequence of leaving the pendulum assembly on the movement during transport.
A weight driven banjo clock must be partially disassembled when transporting and damage could result if the steps are ignored.
Unfortunately, I cannot source the suspension spring as a separate item and must purchase either the keystone and suspension spring together from an American supplier or the entire spring, leader, and stake for about $55.00 from a Canadian supplier. It does not make much sense but in the meantime, I have managed to straighten the suspension spring and it is functioning better than it was. Problem partially solved.
Cracked wood bezel: The crack is just above the number eleven on the dial. It was cracked initially and I used hide glue to close the gap. I now realize that hot hide glue I am using has a low bonding strength because it separated after a few weeks (a dry house in the winter does not help).
Cracked bezel
I have ordered a band clamp designed for furniture repair and will use stronger glue. However, I run the risk of the bezel splitting again and perhaps not in the same place. Another option is to fill it and simply live with a slightly larger bezel that may not fit the dial catch exactly. Problem not solved, yet.
There are three iron pin hooks that hold the dial in place. The hooks are twisted inward to secure the dial.
In the meantime, it is keeping perfect time.
Clock face is installed, missing is the wood door dial bezel
I am in no hurry for this clock. It is worth moving slowly with the repairs and ensuring that everything is completed correctly.
There is no single method of dating an antique or vintage clock but there are some strong clues in some cases and subtle inferences in others that help determine when a clock was manufactured. Occasionally, the exact month and year is displayed somewhere on the case, and in other instances the clock by way of serial numbers, date stamps on the movement, style of hands, spandrels, dial design, case design, and so on, establishes the date to within a certain period.
This is by no means an exhaustive reference but my thoughts on how to date a clock. I will therefore rely on various examples in my collection.
This is the first part of a two-part article. In the second part, I will explore additional clues for determining a clock’s age.
Elisha Manross steeple clock
This Elisha Manross clock is an attractive steeple design. Steeple clocks were made in the thousands from the early 1830s to the end of the century. A steeple clock is a type of mantel or shelf clock characterized by its pointed, spire-like top, which resembles the steeple of a church. These clocks were particularly popular in the mid-19th century and were produced by various American and Canadian clockmakers, including Seth Thomas, Chauncey Jerome, and others.
Elisha Manross steeple clock
Elisha Manross was an important pioneer of the Connecticut clock and lived from 1792 to 1856 and he was the maker of the steeple clock pictured above. A distinctive feature of this particular clock is brass mainsprings.
Brass mainsprings, Manross clock
From 1836 to 1850 brass mainsprings were used in clocks because steel was considered very expensive. It was not until 1847 that the tempered steel mainspring developed for everyday clocks was introduced and with it, the brass mainspring faded into clock history.
This provides an important clue when dating this clock, that it was made before 1850. The second clue is the label located inside the case. Elihu Gere, the printer was in business at 10 State Street Hartford Conn. The printer’s name and address are located on the bottom of the label And this tells us that the printer was at this location until 1847. Armed with these pieces of information one can date the clock from about 1845 to 1847.
Daniel Pratt Jr reverse ogee columns with splat top
Next, is a Daniel Pratt Jr. shelf clock. A distinctive feature of this clock is that it has a woodworks movement. A woodworks movement is a type of clock mechanism/movement made predominantly from wood rather than metal. These movements were commonly produced in the early 19th century, particularly in the United States, during a time when wood was more affordable and readily available than brass or steel. Woodworks movements were very common before 1840 and were considered the first mass-produced clocks.
Daniel Pratt Jr.
Daniel Pratt (1797-1871), Jr., clock-maker, banker, town clerk, and legislator, lived in the town of Reading, Massachusetts, in the 1800s. Pratt did not contribute much to clock-making and was widely regarded as an entrepreneur rather than an innovator.
This particular Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse Ogee shelf clock was made in Reading, Massachusetts, c. 1832-38, within that six-year period. It has a splat-top mahogany case with half reverse Ogee moldings flanking the door, painted wooden Roman numeral dial, mirrored lower tablet, and wood dial face. The mirrored tablet was considered a luxury at the time.
Woodworks movement
McLachlan tall case clock
It is a classic Scottish design from the mid-1800s. The removable bonnet is 23 inches at its widest point, the waist is 15 3/4 inches wide and the base is 20 inches wide. The bonnet has tapered columns on either side. The dial access door which covers the entire bonnet swings to the right. The solid wood access door on the waist measures 9 X 24.
McLachlan Scottish Clock
The well-preserved sheet iron white dial has painted spandrels, each one depicting an ewe with a lamb and a painted arch top showing a man resting on a rock with two working horses directly behind.
English Bell strike movement
The robust movement is made in the Guild style and movements contained in these clocks are commonly called “English bell strikes” with anchor escapements.
McLachlan was not a clock-maker in the true sense of the word but rather an assembler, bringing the dial, clock case, and movement together to assemble into a tall case clock for a particular customer. Signatures on a clock dial may or may not refer to someone other than the clock-maker. 19th-century retailers and distributors often put their own names on clocks in an attempt to ‘brand’ their products. The actual movement may have been made by someone else likely in Birmingham England. 19th-century clock cases were almost always made separately from the movement and are rarely signed.
The name Wm McLachlan, of Newton and Stewart, is inscribed on the dial. In his book, Clock-makers & Watchmakers of Scotland 1453 to 1900 David Whyte lists McLachlan, William, clock & watchmaker in Newton-Stewart, Wigtownshire as a business advertised for sale on 25 May 1852. McLachlan either retired or passed away before the sale date. Newton-Stewart is a former burgh town in the historical county of Wigtownshire in Dumfries and Galloway, southwest Scotland.
This clock was therefore made between 1848 and 1852. The painted dial which originated in or around 1810, the style of the hands, the style of spandrels, the shape of the arched dial, and the shape of the case are other clues that it was made within that period.
Sessions Beveled #2 tambour style mantel clock
This Sessions tambour style clock represents a very popular style of clock sold in the 1920s and 1930s in the USA.
Sessions Beveled #2
It is a fairly attractive mantel clock featuring a toned mahogany finish with faux inlay below the dial face. Faux inlay was an affordable way to enhance a clock’s decorative details and a common feature of clocks of this type in the 1920s.
Label on the inside of the access door
Sometimes, the exact date of manufacture can be pinpointed down to the year and month, making dating straightforward. In this instance, the clock was produced in September 1927.
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock
Dating a clock can sometimes be challenging, and unfortunately, this particular clock is difficult to date with precision.
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock
In Canada, the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company produced clocks from 1903 to 1941. Before the First World War, the company operated in Berlin, Canada. During the war, the city’s name was changed to Kitchener in 1917 due to anti-German sentiment at the time. This small piece of information helps to approximate the date of a Pequegnat clock.
Below the six on the dial is the inscription “The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. Berlin, Canada,” but neither the case nor the movement provides any clues to narrow the date beyond the period between 1904 and 1917.
I hope the examples I’ve shared provide some helpful insights into dating a clock. This is the first part of a two-part article; in the second part, I will discuss additional clues for determining a clock’s age.
Is it worth the time and expense to have a clock professionally serviced?
That is the question of the day.
I receive many letters from people who ask whether a clock handed down to them is worth repairing/preserving. It is not an easy question to answer. Shared history and stories connected with the clock can be passed down from generation to generation and it is fond memories that keep it alive and consequently, there is a desire to have a clock in running condition. Sometimes it is better to do nothing and simply remember the stories associated with the clock.
If the decision is made to do something, the first consideration is whether or not the cost of preserving or restoring the clock is worth it. If the clock has deep sentimental value, the cost of repair cannot be compared to its resale value.
In the early days of clock collecting, I sent out clocks to be serviced and happily absorbed the cost. I knew then that some clocks cost more to repair than they are worth but I wanted to preserve some and have them operate daily, so, professional repairs were necessary.
Junghans clock before restoration
A case in point
In January 2017 I bought a box of old clock parts (above photo). I was determined to make my German-made circa 1895 Junghans Crispi wall clock into what it is today. It was my first huge restoration challenge. It was a steep learning curve for me but in the end, I was pretty happy with the results.
During the course of restoration, I attempted to repair the movement, which hadn’t run in over a hundred years and made some rookie errors. I had no other course of action than to bring it to a professional in order to correct my mistakes. At the end of the day, the total cost was $475 for the initial purchase plus the servicing.
Last year, after 4 years of reliable running the clock developed an errant strike which required investigation and disassembly (and a good cleaning while I was at it) but I would not blame that on the professional repair. Perhaps it is the nature of that particular Junghans movement requiring the odd adjustment every now and then.
Junghans Crispi wall clock
In the years since then, I have acquired the skills and necessary equipment to perform my own repairs.
Twenty-three of the clocks in my collection are daily runners, all serviced from time to time by myself over the years. I am not a professionally trained clock-maker and some procedures are clearly beyond my capabilities, things such as teeth replacement and repair and fashioning new parts from stock brass. 95% of repairs I can comfortably handle on my own.
Rare E Ingraham Huron professionally repaired
Should you bring your clock to a professional? This is a decision you will have to make after weighing all factors. Know that by relying on a professional you can be assured that years of knowledge and experience go into the repair of your precious clock which becomes part of the cost.
Reputable repairers have the correct equipment to tackle just about any repair, offer a warranty period, and will correct any problems that arise after servicing, often without an additional fee.
Clocks are machines and machines do not last forever, parts will wear and from time to time they, like any machine, require attention. If, after some years, the clock that you had professionally repaired stops, I would have no hesitation suggesting that you return to the same repairer for servicing unless, of course, you had a negative experience.
A mechanical clock is more than just a sum of its parts; it is a remarkable machine designed to measure, verify, keep, and indicate time. These devices allow us to measure intervals shorter than the natural units of the day, the lunar month, or the year.
Pequegnat double spring time-only movement
How many machines can you name that run almost as well as they did the day they were built over 100 years ago and still operate exactly as designed? Not many! This enduring functionality is a testament to the ingenuity and vision of their inventors. Mechanical clocks are truly a marvel of engineering!
Clock mainsprings, one for the time side and one for the strike side
A True Story
Let me begin with a sad but true story. A few years ago, a friend of my son was visiting our home. He showed an interest in my clock collection, and I was more than happy to answer his questions.
At one point, he asked me how a clock worked. I picked up an American time-and-strike spring-driven movement and explained how the spring provides power, how the wheels transmit energy, and how that energy is released to keep time. He took the movement in his hands, examined it closely, and then, with a puzzled expression, asked, “Where do the batteries go?”
How A Clock Works
But how does this centuries-old invention actually work? Let’s take a closer look at the fascinating inner workings of mechanical clocks and discover how they keep time with such precision and elegance.
Let’s keep it simple by focusing on the Five elements that are required. They are Power, Gears, Escapement, Regulator, and Indicator. Let’s discuss each one.
Power
Double spring time-only movement with top plate removedrevealing the gears
The power is in your hands. The energy from you is transferred to the mechanical clock when winding it. As you insert the key into a winding point, energy is converted from your hand to the spring or weight.
The spring when fully wound or the weight pulled to its highest point provides the motive power or releases energy through the gears and allows the clock to run for a fixed period of time. Without a source of power, a mechanical clock will not run and a mechanical clock will stop when power is spent.
Gears or Wheels
Gears are also called wheels. The wheels have teeth. Each gear or wheel meshes or interacts with the next gear by way of pinions.
Energy is transferred to each wheel through what is called the train and in the process, the subsequent wheels turn faster. The time side gear train, for example, through a series of wheels leads to a wheel or gear called the escape wheel which turns much faster than the main wheel with the spring or weight. But the power that is released through the train must be controlled.
Escapement or Controlled Release Mechanism
The escapement is the last wheel in the time train. It is designed to release the power from the mainspring or weight in a controlled manner.
Escape wheel and verge
This is the tick and tock you hear when you are close to a mechanical clock. It is the sound of the verge catching and releasing the teeth of the escape wheel. The tick and tocks transmit an impulse to the pendulum to keep it swinging.
Similarly, the mainspring releases the energy through the gears or wheels on the strike side of a clock by means of a series of levers and pins.
The Regulator
Bracket clock showing pendulum leader and bob
A regulator controls the speed of the clock. An example of a regulator is a pendulum. Generally speaking, a pendulum with a longer rod will oscillate more slowly than one with a shorter rod.
Regulating or adjusting the length of a pendulum will speed or slow down a clock. On the same clock, lengthening the pendulum slows the clock, and shortening the pendulum makes the clock go faster.
Clocks without a pendulum have lever escapements, floating balances, and balance wheels that rely on a coiled spring and are regulated by means of an adjustment dial or lever on the escapement arbour.
Clock face showing the hour and minute hand
Indicator
The indicator is the hands on the dial face. Regardless of the size of the dial, the style of the hands, how numbers are displayed, they all do one thing, tell the time.
The indicator also points to the sound a clock makes at a certain part in the hour whether it is quarterly, the half-hour, or the hour on a bell(s) or chime rod(s).
Synergy
The five elements come together to create synergy—a harmonious interaction of parts that produces a result greater than the sum of their individual contributions. This controlled harnessing of energy is ingeniously designed to make the machine perform one task: tell the time.
I think my son’s friend still wondered where the batteries go.
Traditional shellac may provide the ideal finish you are looking for when deciding whether or not to finish that newly acquired antique clock.
A modern polyurethane finish is not a substitute for traditional shellac. Polyurethane is tough and easy to work with but not reversible. Unfortunately, many people resort to using modern finishes on antique and vintage clocks because they are easily available, simple to apply, and cost-effective. However, in order to preserve the authenticity of a clock when the finish must be addressed, traditional methods are the best course of action.
Modern vintage clocks will often have a lacquer finish but for much older clocks shellac is the finish that would have been used at the time it was made. It is the best finish for most antique clocks. Shellac has been around for ages, began to be used extensively in the early 19th century, and remains a preferred wood finish to this day.
What is traditional shellac and how is it made?
What is it, exactly? Shellac is a resin secreted by the female lac bug on trees in the forests of India and Thailand. It is processed and sold as dry flakes and dissolved in alcohol to make liquid shellac, which is used as a wood finish.
Shellac flakes
Traditional shellac is preferred over canned shellac. Canned Shellac does not produce the same results and has a limited shelf life. Traditional shellac also has a limited shelf life but you need only prepare a little at a time. If you have no access to shellac flakes, check the expiry date on the liquid shellac can before using it.
Instructions for making shellac
Advantages
Shellac is non-toxic with no fumes, and it’s safe for surfaces children and pets will be exposed to. It is easy to work with because it dries very quickly and can be applied by spraying or brushing. Intervals between coats can be a little as 15 minutes or less depending on the cut. Shellac also provides a hard finish and doesn’t yellow like varnish. If you must make repairs on shellac, you can simply apply a new topcoat of shellac over the old finish to get rid of scratches or blemishes. It comes in a variety of colors and can be stripped off wood surfaces with alcohol. Shellac does start to deteriorate after it sits in the alcohol mixture for a period of time.
Disadvantages
Heat softens the shellac, so it is best if you avoid putting anything hot on or near the surface. If someone sets a glass down, the condensation may leave a white ring especially if the finish has a higher wax content. Having said that I don’t think many would put anything hot on a clock case although it is best to avoid heat sources, radiators, space heaters, etc.
Preparationand application
I use a 1 lb cut which is an 8 to 1 mixture, that is, 1 oz of flakes to 8 oz of denatured alcohol or commercially sold Shellac/Lacquer thinner. The instructions on the photo above describe the different cuts. The shellac dries very quickly and many coats can be applied in a relatively short period of time. I generally allow about an hour between coats, again depending on the cut.
Shellac comes in a number of shades but amber shellac, which I prefer, employs a warm glow to the finish. I will use either a broad artist’s brush or a French polish to apply the shellac. Each has its advantages. A ball fashioned out of terry cloth is the most effective method of applying shellac. French polishing consists of building up layers of shellac. Moisten the pad in shellac, wipe off the excess and apply in long strokes. A brush, on the other hand, is better when getting into tight spaces and wood cases with a lot of detail. Either way results in a glossy surface, with a deep colour.
400 grit sandpaper is used for rougher sections prior to the first application of shellac. A damp cloth is then used to clean off the residue from sanding. Allow drying. After the first and subsequent application of shellac, 0000 steel wool is all that is required to rub out any imperfections. Repeat the process two times and allow for drying time between coats.
Three coats are more than enough. More coats will produce a darker finish if that is your objective. If the finished result is too glossy and unnatural, dull it down with 0000 steel wool until you have the effect you want. However, there may be some situations where one coat is sufficient.
Howlong does it last?
Shellac in its liquid form has a limited shelf life of about 6 months much like canned shellac. In flake form, and stored properly in a cool dark place, shellac has a shelf life of about 3 to 5 years. I store leftover liquid shellac in a sealed glass container. I would advise against a metal container as the alcohol will react to the metal.
Let’s use my ogee clockas an example
This ogee clock is a fairly recent acquisition. The veneer is in remarkably good shape although the finish was dirty, dull, and lifeless. Many 150+-year-old clocks have missing veneer usually on four corners of the case and the door frame as a result of years of wear and tear but this clock is a rare exception. Veneer repairs must be completed before the finish coat is applied.
Ogee clock as found
Once the movement is out of the case I lay the case on its back to begin the process of cleaning.
After cleaning the case and one application of shellac
Murphy’s Soap is an excellent cleaner. Some may react to Murphy’s soap and a suitable alternative is Dawn or similar dish detergent. I use a light coloured cloth so that I can visualize how much dirt is being removed. Quite often the old shellac finish has worn off but if there is old shellac left there is a good chance it will be removed during the cleaning process. This is unavoidable particularly if the objective is deep cleaning.
Following the cleaning, 400 grit sandpaper is used for rougher sections. Clean off any residue with a damp cloth and wait for the finish to dry. Sandpaper is optional as I find it unnecessary in some situations.
Shellac is applied to the clock case while on its back using long broad strokes from an artist’s brush or a French polish pad. To avoid an overly glossy finish and maintain the light tone of the case one coat is all that is required as in the case of this ogee. Finally, 0000 steel wool is used to lightly “sand” out any imperfections.
To complete the effect Minwax Finishing Paste Wax is applied. It is a quality furniture paste wax that will protect the finish.
A century ago, clock manufacturers understood the power of marketing, and the word “Regulator” became a key tool in their strategy to boost sales. By simply labeling a clock with “Regulator,” they could make it appear more precise and desirable, even if it wasn’t a true regulator. But did this marketing gimmick work? Let’s take a closer look.
Seth Thomas #2, typically used as a railroad time clock
By definition, a regulator clock was, and still is, a clock used as a standard for setting other clocks. Regulators were commonly found in businesses, railroad stations, public buildings, even churches and tower clocks, where townsfolk would adjust their personal clocks based on a clock that was trusted to be accurate. Early regulator clocks played an essential role in keeping communities synchronized in their daily routines.
Take, for example, the Gilbert calendar clock shown below. Advertised as a “Regulator,” it does not fit the true definition. With a spring-driven, time-only movement, it is accurate to within a minute or two per week, which is typical for spring-powered clocks. While the calendar feature is useful and the clock is attractive, it lacks the precision of a true regulator and would not be relied upon for setting other clocks. Still, it had the appearance of an accurate clock.
This Gilbert calendar clock is not a Regulator
Are there exceptions to this rule? As always, there are exceptions. The Welch Spring and Company produced a clock from 1874 to the mid-1880s certified for use in train stations. This double-weight, time-only clock, reminiscent of the well-regarded Seth Thomas Regulator #2, was stenciled with “Regulator” on its access door.
Given its constant weight-driven power and deadbeat escapement, it was likely a very accurate timekeeper and well-suited to any environment where accuracy was critical, such as a train station, business office, or public square.
Double-weight time-only Welch clock– is it a regulator?
This particular Welch clock, now a museum piece at the American Watch and Clock Museum in Bristol, Connecticut, has been meticulously restored. When it was received, the lower tablet was missing, leading to questions about whether it originally came with the word “Regulator” on the access door. The answer is yes, some did, and some didn’t—there was a tick box on the order form for this feature.
So, while the use of “Regulator” on a clock often served as a marketing tactic to imply precision, there are instances where it genuinely signified accuracy. As a general rule, though, it’s safe to assume that many clocks labeled “Regulator” were more about selling an image than offering precise timekeeping.
In the world of clocks, the term “Regulator” was often used as a clever marketing strategy to sell more timepieces by suggesting greater accuracy. While some clocks with this label were indeed precise, many were simply designed to look the part.
As a buyer, it’s important to look beyond the label and evaluate the clock’s true functionality and history before assuming it lives up to its name.
Will antique and vintage clock prices go up or down in 2022? Is this the time to buy or sell? Read further for my thoughts and observations.
First off, some definitions. According to the United States Government, the term “antique” is reserved for items that are over a century old. Webster’s dictionary defines an antique as a work of art, piece of furniture, or decorative object made at an earlier period and according to various customs laws at least 100 years ago. Wikipedia defines antiques as applying to objects at least 100 years old.
The word “vintage”, according to eBay and other sources, is a defined period that is less than 100 years but more than 30 years. You may find various definitions of vintage for example in the jewellery business vintage may be considered as anything 10 to 20 or more years.
Anyone, who regularly shops for antique or vintage clocks is well aware that the clock market has been depressed for quite some time but is this the time to sell or buy?
Pricing is as volatile as it was a year ago. There is no true “standard” pricing for any vintage or antique clock. As with most objects, there is a price range that most would consider reasonable.
A price more or less consistent with prices achieved at reputable auction houses and online for sale sites,
The condition of the clock, whether it runs or not and if it has been serviced,
A seller’s personal experience buying and/or selling online,
A seller prices higher than the value leaving room for a downward negotiated price,
A seller knows that most clocks are not sold to a serious collector and count on uneducated buyers who think they are worth more than they are.
Factors affecting the sale of clocks
Any object is ultimately worth what someone is willing to pay a higher price for it. High-end and truly rare clocks have managed to retain their value althrugh sales are largely based on market conditions and demand.
But what conditions influence the sale of run-of-the-mill antique and vintage mechanical clocks and those of slightly better quality?
Antique and vintage clocks have flooded the market in the past several years driving prices steadily downwards. The new generation of millennials have little interest in antiques and find it pointless to collect antique and vintage clocks.
Modern homes do not have the room for clocks as floor and wall space is limited. In an age when families are living in 800 square foot apartments space is at a premium though that could change as people migrant from dense cities to smaller communities. And when space is at a premium grandfather clocks and jeweller’s regulator clocks though finely crafted and cost thousands when new are not items many would consider as wants for the modern family home. Sentimental reasons aside, the cost of servicing far exceeds the value if the desire is to have a working clock.
I don’t have a crystal ball but judging from prices in the past few years I can comfortably predict that things will be much the same. I do not expect a significant change in 2022 or beyond. It is a buyer’s market and there are some terrific bargains out there. Knowledge is power and no doubt there are some great clocks to be found but shop carefully and do your homework.
A few weeks back I published an article on clock testing stands. While a single clock stand would be ideal for all movement testing purposes there are so many different types and styles of movements that one size does not fit all.
The one stand I was missing was for testing weight-driven ogee style clocks whether they be 30-hour or 8-day or select clocks that would require a pulley system for the weights.
Aside from an easy setup and quick mounting of a movement for testing it allows me to inspect the movement from all sides
Tall case clock stand
Rather than construct a stand-alone ogee test stand I decided to make it a companion to my tall-case clock stand. Mounting atop the tall-case stand means that it is at the optimum height for making adjustments.
I also wanted something I could easily remove if I needed the long-case stand for testing and it is simple to set up.
Salvaging case parts from an old ogee simplifies the construction of the stand. It can be done without ogee case parts but it means devising a pulley system and making rails with slots for the movement seat board.
The ogee clock was purchased along with three others for $20 but the ogee clock case was in such poor condition it could not be restored.
A movement came with the case which I use for spare parts. The veneer has been harvested and used for other projects. The remaining wood pieces are stored and ready for use in future projects.
The tall-case stand is 48 inches high and will accommodate more than one movement although I generally work on one movement at a time. It is square-shaped and very stable though when used to test grandfather clock movements it is anchored to a wall to eliminate or reduce sympathetic vibration.
The tall-case stand is braced on all sides and the framing around the 4 legs adds additional stability and strength.
Taking the rails out
The rails, made of yellow oak, a hardwood, chosen for their strength.
The two pieces I am holding are the oak rails that are designed to fit into the top of the stand and are fully adjustable width-wise depending on the size of the movement.
Close-up of the top
The ogee stand is 10 inches high and has stabilizing rails under each side that rest on the oak rails. There is a cross brace in the front and back to give it strength and lateral stability. The top from an old ogee case is ideal because the pulleys are in the correct position for the weights.
The rails easily take the weight of a 30-hour movement which is about 7 1/2 lbs total. Will it take the 13 lb+ weight of an 8-day ogee? Yes. There is no need to screw or nail the ogee stand to the oak rails as the combined weight of the movement plus weights are enough to anchor the stand in place.
Test stand rest on the two rails
I painted the stand to match the tall-case stand.
I chose Espresso latex paint because it does a great job of hiding my carpentry errors.
Testing the time side of a Waterbury ogee movement
Aside from an easy setup and quick mounting of a movement for testing purposes it allows me to inspect the movement from all sides.
It works as expected and now I can use the stand instead of the case for testing.
Ingraham Grecian 8-day time and strike shelf clock
WordPress comes with an interesting dashboard. The dashboard provides me as author and developer with a back-end tool that provides a wealth of statistical information. The information allows me to track viewership and tailor my articles according to interest as shown by the number of clicks which is a measure of the level of interest.
In 2021 there were 68,095 visitors with 124,708 views at 1.83 views per visitor. Visitors came from 162 countries but let’s look at the top ten.
The top ten countries in 2021 are:
USA
Canada
United Kingdom
Australia
New Zealand
India
South Africa
Ireland
Netherlands
Italy
Since antiquevintageclock.com originates from the beautiful province of Nova Scotia, Canada it is not surprising that most of its visitors are from English-speaking countries.
All visitors are encouraged to explore the world of antique and vintage clocks and to that end, there is a handy applet on the front page for those of you who wish to translate in the language of your choice.
The results are in. By a small margin, your pick for the best clock of the year is the Sawin banjo clock.
Sawin banjo clock
A great choice and one I would have picked had I not been frustrated with it during the restoration process but at the end of the day, my favorite is the Gilbert Shawville clock.
The Gilbert is an excellent example of a non-descript mantel clock found in thousands of homes in Canada and the USA in the 1920s. Seth Thomas, Sessions, and others made similarly styled models to appeal to those who could not afford the fancier, optioned-out upper range clocks that were offered by most manufacturers, including Gilbert, at the time.
I did not actually see the clock until we got home
The clock was offered on Facebook Marketplace in Quebec, Canada for $40 and had no takers over a three-month period. When the price was reduced, I snagged it. It was described as a non-running clock but the key, pendulum bob, and the movement are intact and I suspected I could get it running in a few minutes.
As an interesting aside, I found the clock in a recycle container by the side of the road, all prearranged, and never actually met the seller. It was boxed, sealed and wrapped in plastic, such is the fear the pandemic has produced.
Normally I stay away from American mantel clocks of the 1920s and 30s as I have had so many but for some reason, I was attracted to this clock because it looked like it had not been messed with.
There are no exotic veneers, appliques, fancy trim pieces, or finials, just a plain two-column, square-boxed-shaped, tinted mahogany lacquer hardwood case measuring 10 inches high by 5 ½ inches deep by 10 ½ inches wide at the base.
Gilbert shelf clock
The enamelled 5-inch dial with spade hands has Arabic numerals. On the top of the dial, within the number 12 is a regulating arbour used to adjust the speed of the clock.
On the front plate of the movement is the Gilbert trademark, a capital G within a diamond, and Wm Gilbert Clock Co, Winstead Conn. stamped on the right. The number 17 is in the lower centre, 1917 when the movement was made. The movement has steel plates with brass bushing inserts as brass was in short supply during the period of the First World War, 1914-1918.
A simple clock for the common folk and made by Gilbert is my pick for 2021.
The time has come to determine the best clock acquisition of the past year. As a clock hobbyist, I have had little difficulty locating interesting clocks over the years, and despite the seemingly never-ending pandemic, I have scored a few in 2021 though the past year has been leaner than most.
In the early days of collecting, simple time and strike vintage mantel clocks were my principal focus so that I could take them apart, repair them if necessary, and generally advance my learning. Many of those clocks have been either sold or gifted. For the past three years, I have shifted my focus toward collecting interesting clocks, rare clocks, or clocks that have a special provenance that even includes the odd mantel clock.
My wife is my best clock finder. Our discussions often go something like this; “did you see that wall clock on Facebook?”. “Let me see. Yeah, it looks good, what do you think? Make an offer?” and off we go. Sometimes I will accept the offer from the seller without negotiating because I feel it is a fair price and other times there is some wheeling and dealing prior to firming the sale.
At the end of the post, you will have an opportunity to vote on what you think is the best in 2021.
In no particular order, here are my finds for 2021.
Sawin banjo clock
This is a garage sale find and even though it was purchased in the spring of 2021 it is still a work in progress. The clock is over 180 years old and in pretty decent shape.
Sawin weight driven banjo clock
It is a weight-driven banjo but it has no markings. An educated guess is that it was made by John Sawin of Boston or one of his associates on or close to 1840. I have completed minor veneer work on the case and have replaced the broken glass dial. The movement has been serviced but I am now looking at clock parts supply sources to replace a badly bent suspension spring. I want to avoid paying an outrageous price for the complete assembly; suspension spring, leader and spike.
Gilbert mantel or Shawville clock
I call this the Shawville clock because it spent most of its life in Shawville, Quebec (Canada).
It was a family clock for many years and following a death in the family, all possessions were either sold off or given away, a very common practice today. It has a time-and-strike Gilbert movement in a mahogany tinted case that has led a kind life since its manufacture in 1917. It is simple and unadorned and that’s what I love about it. I serviced the movement, cleaned the case, replaced a broken hour hand and now it is on prominent display in our home.
Gilbert time and strike
New Haven tall-case clock
An interesting $90 acquisition is this New Haven tall-case clock with a secret. Wow, a tall-case clock for $90, you say. Despite the look of a weight-driven clock, it is, in fact, a spring-driven clock. I was unaware of this until I walked through the door of the seller. I bought it anyway.
New Haven tall case clock
The weight cans are empty shells and they are simply there for show. The movement is quite large, eight-day, of course, and looks to be very robust. Despite my best efforts to determine if it was originally weight driven it had to have been spring-driven from the start, in other words, no evidence of a seat board or any additional holes for mounting the movement to the case. This appears to be an early “kit clock”, i.e. movement, dial face, hands, pendulum, “weights”, and ladder chains bought from the New Haven Clock Company and fitted to a pre-made case.
The case was very dark from years of accumulated dirt and grime and vigorous scrubbing revealed a wonderful red oak finish.
Waterbury Wren mantel clock
Ansonia Syria
Another clock with a secret is actually a disappointment. I found it in an antique store and it reminded me of an Ansonia Syria I had worked on for a friend last year, so, I was drawn to it.
Waterbury Wren mantel clock
It has a Waterbury case and what I thought was a Waterbury movement, but no.
It is missing the brass bezel and glass which is easily replaced but what is most disappointing is the mismatched movement, a Seth Thomas time and strike, which obviously replaced the original movement presumably because it was worn out. The movement is well-made and runs well but at the end of the day, the clock is destined to be sold.
Schatz Schatz carriage clock
This is a Schatz carriage clock made by August Schatz and Sohne of Germany. Thousands of these were sold and given as gifts through the 60s and 70s. It has an interesting lower visible escapement and an exposed movement.
Schatz carriage clock
Although it is working and keeping time it runs for about 4 days and stops. A cleaning is called for (on my list). It has a wind-up key in the back much like a typical alarm clock. It says West Germany on the dial and made, I would say, in the 1970s. August Schatz and Sohne closed in 1985, a victim of slow sales and a shift to quartz clocks by other makers.
Chauncey Jerome ogee clock
This clock is original in many ways, with a nearly flawless case made of mahogany veneer over softwood, moon hands, a wood dial, and a movement that matches when the case was made. Even the pendulum bob looks original. It was missing the suspension spring and rod and a wooden movement block, all easily sourced.
Chauncey Jerome 30-hour ogee clock
It cleaned up nicely and was a good candidate for a fresh coat of traditionally prepared shellac. I have three other 30-hour ogee clocks and this one is the most original of the bunch.
E. Ingraham Grecian shelf clock
This is a very nice shelf clock from an estate auction. It is an Ingraham Grecian clock with an alarm feature. If you have ever used the alarm on an old antique clock your first impulse is to throw it through a window, it is so loud and it goes on and on till the spring winds down.
Ingraham Grecian 8-day shelf clock
It came with incorrect hands and I had the darnedest time sourcing them but searching various suppliers in Canada and the US paid off. The case has been cleaned and the movement serviced including the infuriating alarm.
Fleet Time Co. mantel clock
An inexpensive clock that had huge potential but left me frustrated. Fleet Time Co. of Montreal had a short life of 4 years before the Second World war when they lost their source of German movements.
Fleet Time clock
I stripped the case and re-glued some sections, applied a walnut stain and I was very pleased with the final result. I serviced the movement, wound the time side completely, and BAM, kerplunk! the sound of a mainspring exploding. Sometimes you can get away with just replacing a mainspring and other times, like this, it took out the barrel teeth and a leaf pinon on the second wheel. I placed it in a plastic bag and it is now on a shelf in the basement awaiting donor parts.
Hamburg American Clock Company. (HAC) mantel clock
This German-made mantel clock has an interesting 14-day movement, an early production type from HAC. HAC is short for the Hamburg American Clock Company, a German company which had a long history up to the time it was absorbed by Junghans in the late 1920s. This clock was made in or around 1895.
HAC 14-day mantel clock
It was another estate sale find. The case is nondescript and nothing special, but quite elegant.
So…..
Tell me what you think and I will reveal what I believe is my best acquisition this year in the next post. Let’s see if we agree.
The last two years have taught us to be very thankful for family, friends, and relationships. Of course, we all wish we could be celebrating the holidays in a very different way in 2021 but just when we thought we were seeing the end of the pandemic another wave is crashing over us.
Unfortunately, celebrations will be confined to immediate family and close friends. Who would have thought the pandemic would last as long as it did and through all of this we must press on and continue to be vigilant. Is there an end in sight? I certainly hope so.
Holiday in Lego Land
The pandemic has taught us to appreciate the simpler things in life and during this festive season of giving and receiving, let us take time to slow down and be thankful for what we have.
Christmas at home
May this wonderful time of the year touch your heart and the hearts of your loved ones in a special way.
If there is a clock under the tree consider it a timely gift to remind you of days gone by and of happy memories when families got together to celebrate love, togetherness, and a feast to remember.
I understand the sentiment but a sad end to a tambour style clock
The holiday season is not about getting what you want but appreciating what you have.
Wishing you much happiness not just today, but throughout the coming year.
I would also like to take this opportunity to thank all my visitors, viewers, and subscribers for making antiquevintageclock.com the best year yet.
I love this clock. It is one of my favorites. Bought in the fall of 2018, it has been on the kitchen wall and running ever since. Arthur Pequegnat clocks have a solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs, are among the most dependable and reliable clocks in my collection. this model is called the Moncton.
The Moncton was a regular fixture in offices and was then considered a “high-end” office clock. Many also found their way to rail stations across Canada. There were two variations of the Moncton, a short and a long version.
Those made before 1917 were known as the First Issue and had a tapered bottom piece. The second issue had a rounded bottom with a middle cut-out.
They are attractive clocks inspired somewhat by the Seth Thomas #2 although the Moncton has a 15-day double spring driven movement instead of the single weight of the #2.
I knew it required servicing but with so many other clock projects in the way I never got around to it. In my last post I took the movement out of its case and discovered that there is not a lot wrong with it.
The time-only movement is stamped Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company
It was dirty as expected and long overdue for a cleaning.
The movement is pretty simple with 4 wheels and an escape wheel plus the motion works. The two springs apply power simultaneously but one side can be wound if the other spring fails though the clock will run but for a shorter period.
The mainsprings are not what I expected, They are half the width of a typical time-only American clock. There is a reason for this. The Graham deadbeat escapement requires between one fourth to one half the driving power than the same clock using a recoil escapement. Less drive power means less wear over time. Having very few gears and little friction in the gear train also improves efficiency and time-keeping.
The Movement
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
The movement is attached to a support frame bolted to the case.
There are two screws holding the movement on the bottom that must be loosened and two long screws that go through both plates that hold it on top, much like a Seth Thomas #2.
Once disassembled I inspected the movement for wear.
I discovered the lantern pinions and pivots to be in very good condition for the age of the clock.
Time-only movement
The movement might have been cleaned at one point but there is no evidence of past repairs. The bushing holes are a little worn but not enough to warrant bushing work at this time.
Consequently, cleaning parts in the ultrasonic, polishing the pivots, cleaning the mainsprings and pegging out the bushing holes was the extent of servicing.
The movement was assembled and mounted in the clock for testing.
Cleaned and returned to the case for testing; notice the two top mounting screws
It will run for a cycle or two before I re-attach the dial and hands.
A pretty simple servicing requiring less than half a day of my time.
Canadian clock collectors are very familiar with the name Arthur Pequegnat and associate the maker’s clocks with a solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs, and nationalism since many clocks were named after towns and cities in Canada. The Moncton was named after the City of Moncton in New Brunswick, Canada.
The Moncton was often found in offices and train stations across Canada and was known for its accuracy. This clock is originally from the Toronto (Ontario, Canada) area but I have no idea where it spent most of its life.
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton
For an 80+-year-old clock, it is in exceptional condition. A double spring time-only movement with a Graham deadbeat escapement running at 80BPM means that it is very accurate despite being spring-driven.
It has a 12-inch Arabic dial with simple, bold numbers. The pierced spade hands are attractive and are a common feature on many Pequegnat wall clocks. It has a fumed quarter-sawn oak case, is 35 inches high with a hinged 16-inch oak bezel door that swings to the right to reveal the dial.
The pendulum access door is 14 ½ inches high by 10 ¾ inches wide and swings to the right. The clock is 5 inches deep with wall stabilizers on either side of the case. The pendulum bob is brass over iron with an oak pendulum rod. The dial glass is original and has the “waviness” you would expect with old glass.
Assessment of the movement
With solid plates, front and back, and a mounting system similar (but not quite the same) as the Seth Thomas #2 the movement looks solid. I was expecting past repairs and some wear and, of course, a dirty movement, all confirmed when I looked at the movement for the first time.
Heavy-duty time-only movement
I removed the dial first and the movement from the case. The first step is to let down the mainsprings.
The mainsprings are much smaller than and half the width of a typical American clock with a recoil escapement. Not surprising since a Graham deadbeat escapement requires between one-fourth to one-half the driving power than the same clock using a recoil escapement. Less drive power means less wear over time. Having very few gears and little friction in the gear train also improves efficiency and time-keeping.
Even in its unserviced state, it would easily run 16 or 17 days.
I am not seeing a lot of wear, an indication that the clock has had a good life. The verge arbours may need bushing work otherwise I cannot see any other wear that is problematic. The lantern pinions are also in very good condition.
Next is to inspect the movement more closely and look for anything out of the ordinary.
In Part II I will cover the servicing of the movement.
This Chauncey Jerome 30-hour or one-day clock from about 1844-1845 is the example that I am using to illustrate the advantages of using traditional shellac as a finish coat.
The mahogany veneer is in very good condition and it is evident that the clock was not subject to the abuse one would expect of a 180-year-old clock. There is a small dent in the upper left corner but it is hardly noticeable. There are a few scratches here and there consistent with age but all in all the veneer is in great shape.
As found, a dull and lifeless case
First, is cleaning the case. My go-to cleaner for clock cases is Murphy’s Soap. It does a great job of lifting years of grime and dirt from the veneer. The tradeoff is that once you remove the dirt it reveals shellac loss. It was my intention to apply a coat of shellac in the first place so, when I got through layers of dirt and discovered some of the finish gone, I was not too concerned.
Since there are no veneer repairs, refreshing the case was pretty easy. I am not a big believer in maintaining the patina of a clock. if pt is dirty it needs to be cleaned!
I use traditional shellac consisting of flakes mixed with shellac lacquer. I use a wide artist’s brush to apply the shellac and it always produces a superior finish.
One coat of amber shellac
I have decided to leave the lower tablet as-is and as for the dial, I haven’t yet decided on whether or not to address the faded chapter ring though I am also leaning towards leaving it as-is.
The movement has been serviced, the clock is running and striking as it should and I think it looks great after the case refresh.
This 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice time and strike shelf clock with sleigh front needed a little love. It has a Plymouth Lyre movement with a Thomaston Conn. label. The clock was made in the 1870s. and purchased five years ago and has been running since.
I will take you through my early days of veneer repair. It is probably not my best work but it was a fun and challenging project plus, there was good learning.
The Seth Thomas clock as found
A previous owner had applied brown paint on areas of veneer loss, it looked ugly and when I saw that I decided the case could use a little tender loving care. Many of these clocks are in decent condition for their age but if you are shopping for column and cornice clock from this era take note of veneer losses. You may want to reconsider your decision to purchase if you feel it is not worth the time, effort and expense or if there us so much loss that it is unsightly.
Of course, there is always the school of thought that advocates leaving things as-is and that is perfectly fine. But, a little veneer work is minimally invasive, in my view.
Veneer issues
The most troublesome sections were the top and bottom of the case and the column base, not surprising since those are the prime targets of wear and tear over the years. Most of the cornice veneer is in good shape as are the door sections, door surrounds, and the sleighs just above the feet. Although there is work to be done, I have seen worse.
The veneer used at the time was Brazilian Rosewood, an exotic wood. Rosewood would have been used extensively by clock-makers of that era and replacement Rosewood veneer would be the correct choice. I have two 7 X 8 inch pieces of Rosewood veneer, more than enough for this project.
Veneer losses on the base
Prep-workand other case issues
The cornice on the left side was missing a section and that had to be attended to before the veneer work began.
Losses on the cornice and its base
Using scrap softwood I made a small piece and trimmed it roughly to fit. In this photo, I am testing the piece and making minor adjustments for a snug fit. The section is then glued in place and allowed to dry for 24 hours.
Cornice trim piece
The top area of the front cornice is now ready to be faced with veneer.
The sections with brown paint had to be sanded down to the bare wood to improve adhesion before gluing the new veneer.
Repairs made to left cornice
In selected areas, small sections of old veneer were removed to make way for larger replacement pieces.
I have decided not to tackle the columns. There are some losses but from a reasonable distance, they are fine.
Hide glue and Bloom strength
The one true adhesive for antique clock case applications is hide glue. Hide glue would have been utilized at the time the clock was manufactured.
I chose pearl hide glue which is rated at 150g Bloom strength (500g Bloom strength, the maximum, is not necessary for this type of repair). 150g hide glue takes a little longer to gel and adhere but with the slightly longer working time moving pieces around for best fit is easy.
Home-made double boiler
To ready the adhesive place the container with the gelatinous glue in a bath of water in a pot specially designed for hide glue or a double boiler which worked equally well for me. Heat to approximately 140°F (60°C), using a candy thermometer and maintain the temperature throughout. Heating the wood surface with a hair dryer before applying the glue is an option. Full strength is reached when it’s dry, and that can take 24 hours.
An excellent article on hide glue and its strength properties can e found here.
It is best to start with a small batch. Put 2 tablespoons (30ml) of glue in a glass container and cover with 1 tablespoon (15ml) of cold water and let soak for about an hour or until the glue softens and becomes gelatinous. To make a larger batch simply follow the 2 to one rule. I recommend making small quantities, to begin with. If there is glue left over I find that it can be frozen and reused later with no ill effect.
Tools
Clamps, weights, tweezers, wax paper, a sharp knife, a metal straight-edge, painter’s tape, a micrometer, sandpaper, palm sander, and whatever you choose to use as a double boiler complete the list of tools.
Clamps used for veneer work
A micrometer is an indispensable tool for accurate measurements. Accurate measurements ensure a good fit, minimize the use of fillers and lessen waste.
Cutting, trimming & clamping
The cutting of veneer can be tricky. Veneer is brittle, and can easily tear. Veneer today is quite different than veneer used 100+ years ago as it is very thin. On some clocks you must double-up or layer the veneer to approach the height of the original veneer. Another alternative, and a better option, is to harvest veneer from old clock cases. Old veneer is thicker, is very close to the look and feel of the original finish but just as brittle.
If old veneer is hard to work with, softening it with water will have a small and short-lived effect on a veneer’s flexibility. Another option is a product called Super-Soft 2, said to be ideal for softening veneer. For the little veneer work that I do I cannot justify the cost of a commercial softener and water is satisfactory for my purposes.
Painters tape easily peels off
The next photo shows a veneer section glued and clamped into place. Wax paper is used to prevent the glue from sticking to the clamp. Clamps are essential for veneer repair but when clamps do not work other methods such as weights can be employed. Leave the clamp on for 24 hours for maximum adhesion.
Clamping cornice veneer
Cutting can be a challenge since you must follow the grain and narrow strips can break very easily. Painters tape prevents tearing and is easily removed from the veneer prior to or after the application.
The most challenging areas were the very top and very bottom of the case and the column bases but after many hours the veneer work is now complete. The next step is colour matching the new to the existing veneer.
Top of cornice veneerwith new veneer
Rosewood Minwax Gel stain is a close match to the older veneer but I would recommend experimenting with a coat of shellac first before applying a stain, in fact, a stain should be a last resort.
The base section is finished
There is always good learning resulting from each project and in retrospect, I should have replaced the entire section under the left sleigh rather than cut two pieces of veneer to fit either side of the existing piece.
The completed case includes a repainted dial and replacement upper tablet
As with any other project, there will always be a slight colour variance between old and new veneer and the goal, as always, is to come as close as possible to the original finish.
The last photo shows the completed clock with a repainted dial and a new middle tablet.
I was not really looking for an ogee clock to add to my collection. But there it was sitting in a lonely corner of an antique shop calling me, “buy me”; and I did.
It is probably the oldest one in my collection of 4 other ogee clocks. It was made in or about 1845. Now, being old does not necessarily make it valuable. In fact, millions of these clocks were produced and many found their way to online auction sites in recent years contributing to a huge drop in value. You can find them online for a little more than I paid for mine but they are pretty cheap nonetheless. This one was $54.
As found
The case label located on the backboard inside the clock case was printed by John Benham in 1845. Comparing the movement in this case with one found on a popular Jerome database site tells me that it is a type 1.311 Jerome movement. Jerome movements were typically marked though some, like this one, were unmarked which is not unusual.
So, the case and the movement are near enough in time to tell me that the movement is very likely original to the case. That is always a good sign as many ogee cases had worn movements replaced over the years. In some cases, there was little intertest in matching the maker of the case to the movement especially if a customer’s only wish is to have a working clock and since the movements were interchangeable it made it that much easier. Many of these clocks are over 180 years old and one can expect some subtle and not-so-subtle changes over the years.
While very attractive and running well this clock (below), a “marriage”, is an EN Welch case with a Waterbury movement. When considering the purchase of an ogee clock, if it is important to you, check that the movement and case are from the same maker though that is not an absolute guarantee they started their lives together.
EN Welch and Waterbury marriage
What is original and what has been replaced?
Typically parts that have been lost/damaged or replaced over the years include the verge, suspension spring/leader, the pendulum bob, the weights, the hands, and case parts like pulley dust caps. In some cases, the lower tablets have been removed altogether because of breakage or severe paint loss, replaced by a clear glass panel, a mirror, a photograph, or a picture (often from a discarded calendar).
The leader and suspension spring are missing. The verge appears to be a replacement, the weights look original as do the hands and pendulum bob. There is a missing top movement block that secures the movement to the backboard and that is about it.
I am reserving judgment on the frosted glass tablet; it may or may not be original. It would be pretty exciting if it were a Fenn design but I doubt it. William Fenn was one of the more prolific tablet-makers of the mid-19th century. The dabs of red paint are certainly added later.
The clock dial, likely original, is signed C. Jerome below the twelve o’clock.
Assessment of the movement
This is a typical 30-hour or one-day time and strike movement.
I found some wear and I was expecting some past repairs. There is a repair date of 1863 on the inside of the access door but I can’t make out what was done at that time.
There are two bushings installed on the front plate, the second wheel, and the hour gear. On the back, there are four replacement bushings, evidence that it has had acceptable servicing. One seldom finds replacement bushings on an ogee clock. Most movements I have come across have punch marks around the bushing holes, a common practice by past clock repairers to close elongated holes.
Type 1.311 Jerome movement
Three of the replacement bushings will have to be redone and new bushings are required for the back-plate time side main wheel and the strike side back-plate main wheel for a total of five.
The pressure washer for the time side main wheel is completely worn out. Had I not separated the wheel and ratchet for cleaning I would not have discovered the problem but it tells me that it could fail at some future point.
To the right is the pressure washer with centre worn through
I have a donor New Haven 30-hour movement that will provide the replacement washer.
The lantern pinions have some wear but are quite acceptable. One trundle is loose on the escape wheel. Rather than take it apart and re-seat the troublesome trundle, a dab of Loctite Red should fix it in place.
These are two unusual issues but not insurmountable.
A lantern pinion with a loose trundle
Because the movement was so oily and dirty I pre-cleaned the parts prior to putting them in my ultrasonic. This helps extend the life of the solution. I used a medium bristle nylon brush to clean the stubborn areas.
After cleaning and drying the parts, the pivots are polished and I was pleased to find almost no wear on any of them.
Next is the bushing work. My only concern was pushing out what remained of the bushing material in the replacement bushings after drilling. I went slowly and did not apply pressure on the cutter, letting it do its work. As I suspected the Bergeon bushings are marginally smaller but each bushing fit snugly. Although I planned on five bushings, I installed six, adding a bushing for the second wheel on the time side front plate which was a little more worn than I thought. I left the escape wheel as-is, the wear is acceptable.
Next is restringing the weights, re-assembly, and testing. All went as expected.
I have worked on a few of these movements over the years but unique issues always seem to come up. Nonetheless, they are fun to work on.
Following the movement servicing, I will move on to refreshing the case.
I frequently cruise the online for-sale sites for interesting clocks and I could not help but chuckle at this one.
Would you buy a Cucuko clock?
Online ad
If you are going to sell a cute Black Forest clock take a little time to find out how to spell the darn word. It is not choochoo or cucko, or CooCoo, or Coockoo, or Cucuko, it’s Cuckoo!
The word is Cuckoo and theCuckoo is actually a bird found commonly in Europe. That little birdie that comes through the top hatch door the hour and half-hour on so-called clocks is a Cuckoo, plain and simple and they are a real thing.
Dave’s cuckoo clock
I don’t know how many times I have seen the word misspelled. How much more would a seller know about the clock if they can’t even spell the name correctly?
The name is not the only thing to snicker at, look at the price.
I got mine for free. I call it Dave’s clock, the name of the previous owner. It is a lot nicer than the one offered for sale and I’d sell it for a whole lot less than $300…… if I sold it!
Weight-driven banjo clocks have simple time-only movements that are very reliable. They can be unadorned like the one I acquired or garish almost to excess like a presentation timepiece. Authenticity can be a challenge since some presentation timepieces started life as simple wooden cases and decorative tablets, finials, sidearms and other items were added later but I love the simplicity of this one.
Presentation banjo clock by Foster Campos
Finding one for $75 is highly unusual but I am convinced the seller had no idea what it was worth. When I picked it up the seller asked me if I was interested in another clock he had for sale, a 30-hour mantel clock. He told me someone valued it at $300. Uh, no, not interested!
This federal-style banjo clock was made in the 1840s. I am reasonably certain it was made by John Sawin of Boston in 1840 or thereabout, by either himself or one of his apprentices or associates. The movement and case construction bares a strong resemblance to a Willard timepiece and there is a good reason for this.
John Sawin apprenticed under Simon Willard and was a journeyman under Aaron Willard, famous clockmakers of the day and makers of the original patent timepiece.
Unfortunately, there are no identifying markings on the movement or the case but there are key indicators, for example, the placement of the movement mounting “ears”, that tell me that this is a Sawin clock.
The case is complete and ready for the movement
Everything is original to the clock, weight, hands, movement, pendulum rod and bob. The dial glass was was broken at some point in the clock’s life. It had convex glass and a good many I have seen with wood bezels had flat glass. Brass bezel clocks, on the other hand, generally had convex glass, so, I have decided to replace it with flat glass.
The movement
The gear train is relatively simple and consists of 4 wheels; the main wheel, second wheel, third wheel, and escape wheel. The motion works are on the front plate.
The movement in its case
Assessment of the movement
As expected there is wear but consistent with the age of the clock. The movement looks good overall, the gear teeth and pinions are in very good condition but, there are punch marks around the pivot holes. It is never a good feeling to see punch marks around the pivot holes. Punching effectively closes the pivot holes but in a very crude way. This was an old practice and is not considered acceptable today.
Pivots are required for the main wheel front plate, second wheel back-plate, third wheel, and the escape wheel front plate. The verge may require front and back bushings but I will see how things look when the other bushing work is complete. Three are 2mm wide Bergeon bushings, the fourth is 2.5 and the main wheel bushing is larger. I don’t often work with bushings as small as 2mm and it simply means extra care must be taken to cut and ream as accurately as possible.
Bergeon Bushing MachinePunch mark, left of winding arbourNew bushing for main wheel arbour
There was a good amount of movement in the main wheel arbour and installing a bushing was necessary to tighten things up. I have bushings that are 1.5 mm and 3mm thick but the plate is 2mm. A 3mm bushing was installed and using a file I reduced the height to 2 mm. Three other bushings were then installed with no issues.
I have decided to leave the verge bushings as-is for now.
The weight cable had no kinks or broken strands, I cleaned it in the ultrasonic and reused it. For brass cable, I generally knot each end and use solder to secure the knot to prevent it from slipping out of its knot.
Two weeks laterand two issues
The weight cable is too short. The clock stops when the weight is several inches from the bottom of the case and it will only run six days instead of the usual eight. Why was the cable shortened? Who knows?
The Keystone
A second issue. The keystone is the piece between the suspension spring and the pendulum leader. It comes very close to hitting the large wheel of the motion works on the left side. Since the suspension spring is quite bent the right side of the keystone rubs against the back of the dial face stopping the clock. A bent spring is a consequence of leaving the pendulum assembly on the movement during transport.
Unfortunately, I cannot source a suspension spring alone and must purchase either the keystone and suspension spring together from an American supplier or the entire spring, leader and stake for about $55.00 from a Canadian supplier. In the meantime the movement runs until I put the dial on.
Sawin banjo clock c.1840
I am in no hurry for this one and will continue testing it until I come up with a solution for the bent suspension spring.
It is always a thrill to reach a milestone. Six years ago I attended a WordPress workshop and after the instructor assisted us in setting up a rudimentary site, I thought, I can do this. I can talk about clocks! WordPress 101 certainly made it sound so easy but it wasn’t as easy as I thought as I began my journey.
It has taken time to build a following, more than I ever imagined. It takes planning, commitment, an investment of energy, and, finally, perseverance but at the end of the day, it has been worth it.
My office about two years ago
I began by following other blogs and making notes on what made them successful and eventually found a natural style that was best for me. Unfortunately, I have seen a lot of blogs come and go in the past six years, bloggers that ran out of ideas, lost interest in their blog, or for whatever reason, life got in the way. And some of those blogs were pretty darned good. But I wasn’t going to let that affect me.
The first two years were frustrating, to say the least, and I don’t know how many times I thought of quitting, but I hung in even though the number of views was, well, disappointing. I knew my content was interesting, certainly to me and I knew there were people out there who had a yearning to read and learn about mechanical clocks, so, I stuck with it. And, I am glad I did.
Case repair and restoration work area
As I have said elsewhere if you regularly use a lathe to cut gear teeth, re-pivot arbours, bush mainspring barrels on a weekly basis, fashion new wheels from raw stock or make advanced repairs on complicated movements and cases, this is probably not the place for you but you are welcome to leave any comments or suggestions or simply read one of my blog articles over a cup of coffee in the morning.
Seth Thomas #2 c. 1922
After six years I still consider myself a clock repair generalist though there is no denying that I continue to build my repertoire of clock repair and restoration skill. Judging from my mail I seem to appeal to those who are like-minded. I appreciate those who have stumbled onto my site looking for advice and guidance on a particular clock or clock repair issue.
Hamburg American Clock Co (HAC) mantel clock c.1908
But I especially appreciate comments and suggestions from regular viewers. And, yes, there is fan mail, most of it sent privately and I take great pleasure in responding to each and every query.
Ingraham Grecian c.1875
As I review articles that have the greatest number of views it seems clear to me that most of my visitors are looking for how-to and general information articles. That suits me just fine.
After six years I have developed an understanding of my audience and have managed to produce blog articles that seem to appeal to a wide range of people with an interest in horology.
Will I continue? Darn right, and as they say, the best is yet to come.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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