William McLachlan – Scottish clockmaker – what ChatGPT taught me

Confronted with the prospect of finding little else about William McLachlan I was curious about how ChatGPT might help.

Read on and you will find the results quite interesting.

Scottish tall case clock
Scottish tall case clock assembled and sold by William McLachlan of Newton Stewart in or around 1848

First of all, what is ChatGPT?

ChatGPT is a sophisticated computer program that is designed to understand natural language input from users and generate appropriate (my underline) responses. It uses a form of artificial intelligence called a deep neural network to analyze the input it receives and generate text that mimics human language. The program has been trained on a vast amount of data, including books, articles, and websites, so it can provide information on a wide range of topics. ChatGPT is an advanced technology that aims to provide human-like interactions in a digital space.

Regarding William McLachlan, here is what AI came back with:

“William McLachlan was a well-known Scottish clockmaker who lived and worked in Newton Stewart in the 1800s. He was born in 1803 and began his career as an apprentice to John Smith, a clockmaker in the nearby town of Wigtown.

In 1826, McLachlan moved to Newton Stewart, where he opened his own clockmaking shop. He quickly gained a reputation for producing high-quality clocks, and his business grew steadily over the years. McLachlan was known for his precision and attention to detail, and his clocks were particularly prized for their accuracy and reliability.

In addition to making clocks, McLachlan also produced barometers, thermometers, and other scientific instruments. He was particularly interested in developing new designs and technologies, and he was constantly experimenting with new materials and techniques.

McLachlan was a respected member of the Newton Stewart community, and he was involved in many local organizations and charities. He was also an active member of the local Masonic Lodge, and he served as its Master in 1861.

William McLachlan passed away in 1872 at the age of 69, but his legacy lived on through his work. His clocks and other instruments are highly prized by collectors and are considered some of the finest examples of Scottish clockmaking from the 19th century.”

Early morning light on the clock face

I decided to ask the question in a slightly different way and this is what I found:

“William Maclachlan, a clockmaker from Newton Stewart, Scotland, was born in 1803. Here is some information that I was able to find about his life:

William Maclachlan was born in 1803 in Newton Stewart, a small town in the historical county of Wigtownshire in southwestern Scotland. He was the son of James Maclachlan and his wife Agnes. In 1823, William Maclachlan married Janet Hannah, and the couple had at least six children.

William Maclachlan worked as a clockmaker, and he is known to have produced a variety of clocks and timepieces during his career. Some of his clocks are still in existence today, and they are highly prized by collectors. For example, in 2017, a William Maclachlan longcase clock was sold at auction for over £20,000.

Maclachlan was also involved in local politics and community affairs. He served as a councilor on the Newton Stewart town council in the mid-19th century, and he was also involved in the establishment of the local savings bank. He was known for his philanthropy, and he supported various charitable causes throughout his life.

William Maclachlan died on March 6, 1876, at the age of 73. He is buried in Penninghame Kirkyard in Newton Stewart. His legacy as a skilled clockmaker and community leader lives on, and his clocks continue to be admired and sought after by collectors today.”

Back to the database search

In any event, armed with the “information” generated by AI I went back to a Scottish website called Scotlands People, a government-operated site to input new data.

As for information on deaths, I found a William McLachlan age 68 who died in 1871 in Rhu, Scotland which is 105 miles from Newton Stewart. For marriages I found nothing. However, records begin in 1855 which means he might have married earlier. Regarding the 1871 census, I found a William McLachlan who was age 67 in Renfrew County where Newton Stewart is located. On the whole, not definitive and really nothing to support the AI-generated data.

Is information from ChatGPT to be trusted?

Generating intelligible responses simply results in responses being “appropriate”. Note the spelling of McLachlan (Maclachlan) in the second query despite inputting the name correctly. Varying the words in each new query yields a different result because ChatGPT gathers information from a number of sources and constructs facts in an intelligible dialog based on the question asked.

In my view, ChatGPT can be a dangerous tool. It looks very impressive though sadly some people will not question the information generated. A plague of misinformation and propaganda will flow from AI, no doubt, and whether we like it or not robot reporters in the news media are already a thing. Therefore, generative AI can be transformative and yet potentially destructive.

For the researcher, AI might provide a starting point but it is too easy to go down the rabbit hole. I see some value in ChatGPT as a blog writer if I am searching for a generic opening paragraph or explaining how something works. For instance, I asked ChatGPT “How does a clock escapement work?” and the response, to me, is pretty impressive. Having said that, I am now aware of its limitations, so, a little caution is necessary going forward.

And since I have no way of verifying the AI information that leaves me at square one.

For now, I am standing by the information in a previous post which you can access above.

Oh, the answer to “how does a clock escapement work?’.

“A clock escapement is a mechanism that converts the rotational motion of a clock’s gear train into a series of evenly spaced ticks that move the clock’s hands. The escapement consists of an escape wheel and a pallet fork.

Here is how the escapement works:

  1. The power source, such as a weight or spring, applies force to the escape wheel, causing it to rotate.
  2. The pallet fork, which is connected to the clock’s pendulum or balance wheel, engages with the escape wheel and stops it from rotating.
  3. As the pendulum or balance wheel continues to swing back and forth, it moves the pallet fork, which then releases the escape wheel.
  4. The escape wheel rotates a small amount before being stopped by the pallet fork again, and the cycle repeats.
  5. Each time the escape wheel rotates, it moves the clock’s gear train forward by one tooth, which in turn moves the clock’s hands.

The ticking sound of a clock comes from the sound of the escape wheel teeth clicking against the pallet fork as the escapement mechanism advances the gear train one tooth at a time. The swinging motion of the pendulum or balance wheel helps regulate the rate at which the escapement mechanism ticks, keeping the clock running at a consistent pace.”

And there you have it.

Jerome & Co. Rose Cottage clock – dial work completed

I was very close to trashing this little Jerome & Co. time-only cottage clock but decided to give myself a real challenge and bring the clock back to something presentable. So far the project is progressing reasonably well.

The door trim has been completed, and the movement has been serviced. Serviced in the spring of 2022 the movement runs perfectly.

This post details the results of in-painting the dial and some work completed on the lower tablet.

Not in the best of shape

My first attempt at replicating the colour and tone of the dial produced passable results as the below photo shows. Since I had to build layers of paint I was not concerned that it was slightly off as each layer came closer to matching the rest of the dial.

As the paint dried I tackled some of the numbers using a Pitt fine-tipped artists pen, a straight-edge and a compass.

Initial work on the dial

I had better luck with the next batch of paint combining white with small amounts of red, brown, black and yellow, mixing and comparing as I went.

The number eleven is admittedly a little shaky because I was unable to smooth out the base paint in that particular spot. The number eleven was pretty much a crap shoot anyway as it was totally obliterated before I began.

The chapter ring and minute markers came out as well as could be expected.

in-painting and enhancement of the numerals

Close examination will certainly reveal that dial work has been done but once the dial is mounted in the case it takes a good eye to see the difference plus I have successfully preserved the overall patina.

Dial mounted in the case

The black sections of the lower tablet were reverse painted and there is a significant difference. I am not sure how to address the red, green, and gold tablet design which is in very poor condition. I may leave it as-is if I am unable to complete the fine detail work.

Dial, trim, and touchups on the lower tablet

So far so good! Next is the veneer work which should present an interesting challenge.

Scottish tall case clock – who was Wm. McLachlan of Newton Stewart?

Since winning this tall-case clock at auction in the spring of 2020 I have been intrigued about its origin. The information provided at the time was that it was made in Scotland or England in or around the mid-1800s but it could not have been made after 1852 as I will explain later.

Its features suggest the mid-1800s although there is nothing on the clock that tells me anything about the exact year it was made.

It is a classic Scottish design from the era. It is fairly nondescript and lacks the fine craftsmanship of other tall-case clocks of the period but it has attractive lines.

It has an English rack and snail bell strike movement. The removable bonnet is 23 inches at its widest point, the waist is 15 3/4 inches wide and the base is 20 inches wide. The bonnet has tapered columns on either side. The dial access door which covers the entire bonnet swings to the right. The solid wood access door on the waist measures 9 X 24. The weights are 10 and 11 pounds as one would expect.

To appreciate the size of the clock at almost 90 inches, it just about reaches our 8-foot ceiling.

The day it was brought home

On the dial is the name Wm McLachlan, and the town, Newton Stewart. William (Wm) McLachlan is a clockmaker. In his book, Clockmakers & Watchmakers of Scotland 1453 to 1900 David Whyte lists McLachlan, William, clock & watchmaker in Newton-Stewart, Wigtownshire as a business advertised for sale on 25 May 1852, with no reason why it was offered for sale and nothing more about his life.

Newton-Stewart is a former town in the historic county of Wigtownshire in Dumfries and Galloway, southwest Scotland.

Perhaps rather than a clockmaker per se, McLachlan was an assembler/retailer and sourced cases, dials, and movements for his customers according to their wishes. Rather than build a clock from the ground up in his own shop, it was more cost-effective, even in the mid-1800s, to locate parts from various sources.

For example, the dial, hands, and movement were made in Birmingham, England and the case was very likely locally made by a joiner or wood craftsman. It is also quite possible that the painted dial originated in Birmingham as Birmingham was well-known at the time for its dial painters.

The clockmaker then assembled the parts, completed the final finishing, added finials, lock and knobs, weights, and pendulum, fine-tuned the movement, and placed his name and the location of the town on the dial.

What does the shepherd and sheep theme on the dial mean? The clock was presumably made for a well-to-do Scottish sheep farmer. I can only imagine the magnificent striking sound of this clock in a farmers’ home during the 1850s or so and the stories it could tell.

The tombstone of William McLachlan, (appears to be a more modern one erected by family?)

More about McLachlan

William McLachlan was born in 1799 in Penninghame, Wigtownshire, Scotland, and presumably operated a clockmaking business or clock shop in Newton Stewart in his thirties and forties, and finally while in his early fifties sold his business in 1852.

I had assumed that he either retired in the Newton Stewart area or passed away prior to the sale date but I have recently discovered that he emigrated to the USA prior to 1861. His tombstone is located in Jersey City, New Jersey, USA. He was 77 when he passed away on December 8th, 1876 and his wife Mary Crichton died in 1891 at age 84.

Scottish tall case clock
Scottish tall case clock restored and on display in my home

McLachlan’s wife was 7 years younger so let us assume they married when he was in his late twenties and she in her late teens or early twenties. Could he have been operating a business at that time? Did they have children? If so, why was the business not carried on by a son? And why the newer tombstone? Family, sons, daughters?

According to Scottish birth records McLachlan was living in Penninghame, Scotland in 1841. A William McLachlan from the same area is listed in the 1851 census but at 57 years old (an error perhaps?) and I cannot find a William McLachlan (who would have been 62) in the 1861 Scottish census. Did he and his wife leave for the USA sometime during the 10-year period between 1851 and 1861?

Whether he carried on clockmaking in the USA after his arrival is a mystery. If he did, there may be American sources I can explore further.

Many tall case clocks came over the ocean from Scotland and England but how this particular clock made its way to Canada is also a mystery.

Free records databases have their limitations and I am not willing to pay for a subscription for what might lead to a dead end but I will continue to do a little more digging and we’ll see what I can unearth.

Best clock acquisition of 2022

Well, it’s that time of the year. What is my best clock acquisition of the past year? You can decide for yourself and leave a comment but I will reveal my favorite at the end of the post.

As a clock hobbyist, I have had little difficulty locating interesting clocks and every year I have managed to find a winner or two. 2022 was no exception.

In the early days of collecting, time and strike vintage mantel clocks were my principal focus with the goal of taking them apart and making them work, an important part of my learning. Many of those clocks have been either sold or gifted. I have shifted my focus toward collecting interesting clocks, rare clocks, clocks that have a special provenance, and growing my collection of Canadian-made clocks.

My wife is my best clock finder. Our discussions may go something like this; “did you see that wall clock on Facebook/xxx auction house?”. “Let me see. Yeah, it looks good, what do you think? Make an offer?” and off we go. Sometimes I will accept the offer from the seller without negotiating because it is a fair price but there are times when a little wheeling and dealing takes place prior to the sale.

In no particular order, here are my finds for 2022.

Fusee gallery clock

Gallery or dial clock, unknown maker

The clock is also called a dial clock in England which is where it was made. There are no markings anywhere on the clock save an obscure trademark that I have been unable to identify. It is a time-only fusee clock with a 12-inch dial, a very common size. It might have had a chain drive at the beginning of its life but it now has a cable. I have not serviced this clock because I don’t know enough about fusee movements, particularly the method of preloading the powerful mainspring.

E N Welch marine clock

Marine clock by E N Welch

This 30-hour spring wound clock with a hairspring lever escapement simply tells the time. It was made in the 1870s and perhaps earlier. It has been serviced, bushed, and cleaned, but my challenge at the moment is setting up the hairspping. It will work but not well.

Hamilton clock co ogee

Hamilton time and strike ogee clock, Canadian made

Acquired in the spring of 2022 this ogee clock was made in Hamilton, Ontario (Canada). The movement was serviced but the case challenged my veneering skills. It looks quite presentable now but was in poor condition when I bought it.

Jerome and Co. Rose Cottage clock

Rose Cottage clock by Jerome & Co.

Quite honestly I was going to throw the case out after having serviced the movement. It simply looks too far gone. However, I have accepted the challenge of bringing back this clock to its former glory. So far it is a work in progress.

Jauch calendar clock

Jauch 8-day calendar clock

From a distance, this clock looks good but a closer examination reveals a cheaply made time-only movement and an equally inexpensive pine case. It is clear that this German company was attempting to cash in on the antique American schoolhouse clock that was popular in the 1970s.

Wag on the wall

Wag on a wall

This has a well-made German movement, possibly by Mauthe or Hermle. It is a time-and-strike weight-driven clock and keeps very good time. Its only negative is that it has a cheap 1960s look about it but the only thing missing is a bottom middle finial.

Sessions Grand Assortment

Grand Assortment by Sessions

Perhaps the ugliest gingerbread clock ever made. The photo is the exact clock I worked on two years ago since the clock is apart at the moment and I have stripped down the case (a last resort).

Sessions Mission clock

Sessions Mission clock, 8-day time and strike

I like this clock not only because it is a 10$ thrift store find but it has very nicely styled mission clock and it works very well, keeping decent time for a spring-driven clock.

Empire gallery clock

English gallery clock with 10-inch dial

I was hoping this was a fusee clock when I bid on it on an online auction in the spring of 2022 but it is a spring-driven 8-day clock with a fairly robust movement that was intended for commercial use, a store, an office environment perhaps.

Daniel Pratt Jr woodworks clock

Daniel Pratt Jr woodworks clock

I have a couple of Danel Pratt woodworks clock. Unfortunately, this one is missing its topper. Servicing woodworks movements takes special care and attention and I may tackle this clock in the spring.

Ansonia 30-hour parlour clock

Ansonia 30-hour parlour clock

I seem to gravitate toward 30-hour clocks. This is a time-and-strike clock and is in decent condition requiring only a few touchups.

My favorite?

Well, it has to be the time-only fusee which is probably why I subconsciously placed it first on the list. It well built industrial-strength clock that was designed to last for years. It looks great on any wall, is very quiet, and quite accurate which is what fusee movements are known for.

Clocks with luminous dials – the danger within

I received an email from a blog fan this week who posed an interesting question. She was concerned that a number of clocks offered for sale at a local antique store had radium dials. I assured her that I know of no maker of mantel, shelf, or long case clocks that used radium on their dials but had there been alarm clocks, wristwatches, and even antique compasses on display her concerns would have been justified.

Westclox LaSalle alarm clock
Westclox LaSalle non-luminous alarm clock

As a matter of fact, it reminded me of the number of times I have been in antique and junk stores and have seen clocks with luminous dials and the danger I might have faced during a brief exposure, say within a meter or so and the more serious danger of being irradiated had I purchased and serviced them.

German musical alarm clock
German musical alarm clock or Joker

As a clock collector, I have a limited number of alarm clocks none of which have luminous dials. I understand the potential danger of radium and that is why I confine my collecting to alarm clocks with non-luminous dials only.

Even a clock that has lost its luminescence may still have traces of radium on its dial or particulate matter that has fallen from the clock face which makes them equally as dangerous.

Antique “alarm” clock mechanism from around 1900

Since radium has a half-life of hundreds of years even old radium dials are very hazardous. If working on a clock with a radium dial care should be taken to prevent the inhalation or ingestion of flakes or dust which may contain radioactive materials. My advice is to not work on them at all.

In the past several years radium dials have largely been replaced by phosphorescent – or occasionally tritium-based light sources. Therefore clocks produced after the 1970s had safer luminous material applied to the dials but modern alarm clocks are not nearly as attractive as antique clocks from the 1920s or so.

Clocks with luminous radium dials are certainly a danger to avoid and as far as I am concerned, not worth the risk.

Jerome cottage clock – progress so far

It is always challenging to find time to work on projects when life is busy. I picked up some part-time work this winter, teaching at a community college so between that my clock hobby teaching has taken precedence, for now.

Since the post on extreme restoration a week or so ago, I have continued planning the work to be done and have actually managed to address two issues, the second one only partially.

For my first thoughts on this Jerome Rose Cottage 30-hour clock, see the post below. I am sure you will agree that this is a candidate for extreme measures.

Posted Jan 31, 2023

The case has been cleaned of dirt and grime and I have removed some of the ragged pieces of veneer on the right side. The plan is to cover the exposed sections with new veneer but since the trim is curved I will have to work out some way to apply the veneer to the curved surface and clamp using some sort of curved block. I considered an old section of ogee molding but no, not the right shape.

The movement had been serviced in the spring of 2022 and is running perfectly.

One solid wheel on this tiny movement

Painting the door trim

In my collection of acrylic paints, I found antique gold which I believe is very close to the original trim framing the front access door.

Dark chocolate brown paint was used to cover the area between the glass and the gold trim and since it was a flat texture I applied a coat of shellac to give it a satin sheen.

The design of the small glass tablet will be a challenge to duplicate and I continue my search online for a cottage clock with the same design that I can pattern off, otherwise, I will have to improvise.

Before and after

Addressing the dial

The dial has been thoroughly cleaned but some of the dirt is embedded in the dial surface which is not an issue since I would like to retain some of the patina.

I haven’t quite found the exact paint match at this point, but I am not too concerned as building up layers is the first step in in-painting. With some experimentation I should arrive very close to what I am looking for. The real fun will be in-painting the Roman numerals and chapter ring.

In-painting the dial

Next steps

Next will be the veneer work but as mentioned clamping the veneer will be a minor challenge. I am sure I will find a way. The veneer looks like Rosewood and I have a small quantity on hand.

After the veneer work is completed the tablet will be addressed and that will unfortunately involve cutting or peeling the label on the inside, though I will preserve it as best I can.

Finally when all is done a coat or two of traditional shellac should make this clock very presentable.

This small clock has certainly been to hell and back but I do know one thing; whatever I do will be a vast improvement.

Look for more posts to come on this nice little cottage clock.

Periodicals from 15-20 years ago donated by a blog fan – what to do with them

A blog fan contacted me recently and asked me if I wanted literally hundreds of old clock periodicals and bulletins. I thought about it and knew that some of the periodicals would have some value to me as a clock repairer and restorer. And I was not wrong!

The story is that the donor did not collect the magazine, periodicals, journals, etc. They were given to him by a 92-year gentleman who was in assisted living and could not keep materials he had collected over a number of years. He had also given clock and watch repair equipment in addition to the reading material. Apparently, the old man had no one to give it to as his family had no interest in the material, passed it on to my blog fan and rather than throw it out asked me if I could have the reading material. So, I drove to his place and literally carried several boxes to my car.

What to do. I cannot keep all of it. The plan is to methodically go through each issue, page by page marking articles of interest and putting them aside to keep. And I kept about 15%.

In addition to Clocks Magazine, hundreds of copies of British Horological Institute publications as well as dozens of NAWCC monthly bulletins. The BHI publications focus heavily on watches and have numerous technical articles that are well beyond my pay grade, neither of which interest me.

Clocks magazine from the 2000s, Post-it notes indicate an article or articles of interest

In the meantime, I am searching for how-to articles and ones of historical interest that I will put aside for future reference.

NAWCC Bulletins

I might keep a few of the NAWCC bulletins for handy reference though I have full access to all the bulletins through my NAWCC membership.

A small portion

I appreciate the gift but sadly, I will have to dispose of the majority of the stuff.

In all, I will keep some of it and the rest will either be recycled or donated. If anyone is interested please let me know.

Jerome Rose Cottage clock – a candidate for extreme restoration?

What to do with this cute Jerome & Co. CA 1870 cottage clock?

Published May 2022

I worked on the movement in the spring of 2022 and even at that point I was not sure what to do with the clock case. The tiny movement intrigued me and I wanted to have it running but the case – what a total disaster.

A tiny movement

Chauncey Jerome was a prolific clockmaker and a true pioneer of the early American clock. Despite his success in clock manufacturing from the late 1830s to the early 1850s, a number of poor business decisions led to bankruptcy in 1856, and the assets of the bankrupt Jerome Manufacturing Co. were purchased by the New Haven Clock Co.

The copper wire soldered to the movement is actually a homemade bushing

While Jerome was involved in numerous clock-making activities after his bankruptcy and marketed clocks under his name and label, Jerome & Co. is not one of those. “Jerome & Co.” was a tradename used by the New Haven clock company to cash in on the Jerome name. Chauncey Jerome never oversaw the production of this particular clock. Still, in some eyes, the fact that it is a “Jerome clock” means something.

These clocks were only a dollar or two in their day and nobody expected them to last forever. Given that it was likely made in the 1870s it has certainly had a long life.

The movement was cleaned and the worst holes including the copper wire thingy contraption were bushed.

Black dots indicate new bushings, note the solid wheel in the back of the movement

One look at it would tell anyone that the clock has been through many hands and the case is well worn. In fact, some would consider it one step away from being binned. But I am looking for a challenge and I think this is it.

There are veneer losses on the right side of the case, the bottom corners, and the top left. Most of the “gilt” around the front access door has worn off. There is a large age split on the top-right and the reverse-painted lower tablet has significant losses. It looks very depressing.

Despite numerous issues with the case, the movement is likely original, the hands probably original, and the dial as well though the pendulum bob is a replacement.

There are significant losses on the dial and it will take a bit of work to put it right. The case issues are not unexpected given the age of the clock but it has obviously not had a lot of care over the years

Given the present condition of the clock case, I am curious to see what I can do. One thing I know for certain is that any work on the case will be an improvement. We’ll see what I can come up with.

Welch Marine clock – let’s call it a work in progress

Last week (January 20, 2023) I wrote about a wonderful little marine clock that I have just not had the time to service completely. A few weeks ago I cleaned the movement and polished the pivots and left it. All that was left was the bushing work. I spent a few hours on it today and it was worn as expected. Eight bushings for a time-only movement is a lot.

It is a 30-hour brass movement made by E.N. Welch in the 1860s. It has a balance wheel or hairspring lever escapement to use a more exact term. The movement is accessed by removing the dial and bezel (4 screws) and releasing 4 screws that hold the movement to the backboard.

Time only with balance wheel escapement, prior to cleaning

A balance wheel escapement should be no surprise to anyone who knows the purpose of this clock. It is a marine clock, designed to be used on ships and trains, not a ship’s bell or watchkeeper’s clock but a marine clock that simply tells the time.

I suspected part of the reason the clock was so slow was a combination of factors, a kink in the hairspring, the general wear of the movement plus all the dirt and grime that had accumulated over the years.

The arrow shows a little bit of kink after my best attempt to straighten it

I separated the plates to discover that the movement had been worked on previously. Sometimes the work is done well and other times questionable shortcuts are taken. In this case, a glued regulating cup screw and punch marks around some of the pivot holes. You play the cards you’re dealt.

A screw is glued, stripped no doubt

It is a pretty simple clock with not many parts.

The arbour with the lantern pinion in the middle is the “seconds” bit, before cleaning

As mentioned, the balance wheel adjustment cup screw in the rear is glued in place and there is only one reason for it, it is stripped. I am going to leave it as is as there remains a front adjustment screw on the front of the movement which also has the speed regulator wire.

Next, I am preparing for the first bushing by centering the bushing hole. You will notice that I am bushing from the outside of the place. The center wheel did no allow enough space to work from the inside of the plate.

Centering the hole on a Bergeon bushing machine

And on to the bushing work.

Using a reamer on a pivot hole

The only tricky bushing was the mainspring arbour which required a 5.5mm bushing, otherwise, the bushing work went smoothly

Mainspring and new arbour bushing

There was more bushing work than I realized. Yes, it was quite worn but I have seen worse.

Cleaned and in place, the lantern pinions and pivots were in excellent condition

The movement is a little tricky to put back together because of the small plates and how the wheels are close together but it went back together without much of a fuss.

Now for the fun part and that is remounting the balance wheel. I am not a fan of balance wheel escapements. If you have worked on old alarm clocks you know what I am talking about, getting the clock in beat. The problem I am having is lining up the impulse spring with the fork. Every time I try the spring is twisted.

Does the clock work? Yes but not well. It’s well out of beat and I suspect there is not enough impulse from the hairspring. This will take a little more time to figure out but I am not in the testing phase as yet.

Let’s call this a work in progress.

After veneer repairs, the Hamilton ogee case is finished

Just before Christmas 2022, I published an article on a Hamilton Clock Co. 30-hour ogee that I won at auction earlier in 2022. I had been delaying repairs on the case for months and finally found the time to tackle the veneer work.

I seem to be strangely attracted to ogee clocks, this is my fifth acquisition over the past 6 years and I think that’s it, no more except for that seemingly rare-ish eight-day version from any American maker.

The Hamilton Clock Co is in no way associated with any American company or companies and is a wholly home-grown Canadian Company that made clocks in the late 1880s. in Hamilton, Canada that were styled after American ogee clocks of the time.

December 2022 article

The clock was complete with weights, pendulum bob, original hands, dial, and even the top dust caps which are often missing from these old clocks. The movement was in good shape and other than installing 5 new bushings to address enlarged pivot holes there was no significant wear. The cables were replaced with braided nylon and the pendulum suspension spring/leader was also replaced.

The case needed veneer remediation, particularly the top corners. The entire side trim piece required a considerable amount of work and the bottom veneer strip was missing altogether.

The next photos showed how hopeless the top right and bottom sections appeared when I first received the clock and had a good look.

Poor veneer repairs
The bottom piece missing altogether

Some might argue that the case should be left as-is since the repairs however poorly are part of the history of the clock. This is the never-ending conservation/restoration argument that arises. Preserving some clocks as they are is certainly important but this was not an expensive clock and in this situation, I take the view that a repair will not only improve the appearance of the clock but enhance its desirability if completed correctly.

Step 1 – cleaning

The case is solid and no structural repairs are required.

My go-to cleaner is Murphy’s Soap which I cut half and half with water. I begin by cleaning the case which unfortunately means removing some of the shellac. This is unavoidable but there is enough shellac remaining that the case would not be stripped in the true sense of the word. I removed the right side trim completely to work on it separately. The plan was to glue it and the bottom trim piece back on when I was finished with the veneer repair.

Step II – veneer work

I usually keep a supply of veneer harvested from old clocks. I am not the best judge at identifying wood types and find myself confusing Rosewood with mahogany at times but I make a comparison based on what I have and what seems to look the best by comparing colouring and grain and for the most part, it looks acceptable when the job is completed.

I have also learned recently that makers will occasionally use different types of wood veneer on the case surfaces at the time of manufacture and simply dye/tint them to match. In fact, while cleaning the dust caps a bit of colouring transferred to the rag and it looked very much like ocher.

Hide glue on a heating pad to maintain the temperature

Medium-strength hide glue is mixed prior to the project. The working temperature is about 160-170 degrees Fahrenheit.

Marking the piece to cut

Painter’s tape is used to ensure that the ends are not damaged during the cutting of the veneer.

Cutting the veneer

An artist’s or carpenter’s blade is used. Ensure it is good and sharp, you don’t want the blade pulling on the veneer as you cut.

Gluing the veneer to the trim piece

Depending on the bonding strength of the hide glue you have a limited amount of time to secure the veneer in place.

Clamping the veneer to the trim strip

Have plenty of clamps large and small on hand.

Attaching the veneer strip to the case

Once the veneer is attached to the trim piece and allowed to dry for 24 hours it is time for gluing and clamping the right and bottom border strips to the case.

Step III- – the shellac finish

Once the case has dried for 24 hours the shellacking can begin. I use an artist’s brush for the application of shellac using long and even strokes. For larger areas, one might opt for a French polish technique which is essentially a piece of cloth shaped into a ball and wrapped into another piece of cloth and dipped into the shellac. The main idea is to dip and apply the shellac using smooth even strokes.

I generally apply 2-3 coats of shellac, and between coats smooth the surface with 4-zero steel wool.

Final thoughts

I am certainly not the foremost expert in veneer repair but along the way, I have mastered the fundamentals. Each project offers its unique challenges and this one was no exception.

I was somewhat surprised that after cleaning the left and right trim pieces and shellacking both that the right side and bottom trim piece were somewhat lighter than the left side. However, the new pieces added to the right trim section matched quite nicely. This shows up more dramatically in a photograph. But I think the lighting had a lot to do with the contrast. The light and shadows of the clock combined with the sun coming in from the right side of the clock seem to make the difference more pronounced.

The final result

It is also possible that the right side was tinted to match at one time and cleaning removed the tint. Comparing it to other ogee clocks in my collection for some there is a slight variation from side to side and top to bottom but not as striking as on this clock case.

Light source from the left, the contrast is not as striking

At the end of the day, I am pleased with the final result. I would imagine that in time the new or lighter sections of the case will darken somewhat.

I can now add it to other Canadian clocks in my collection.

From chaos to order – reorganizing my clock office

My wife calls it the clock office. It is, after all where I work on my clocks and where some are on display. It is also where I compose articles for this blog.

However, it has been getting very cluttered, and I am tired of how disorganized it looks.

We have 4 bedrooms in our 2-story home and my office is in the smallest one. It is also the one I prefer because of the afternoon sun and it is probably the brightest room in the house with two large windows facing west.

My office November 2018

In 2018 the office was manageable but as anyone who collects things or has a hobby, space runs out very quickly.

December 2022, getting very busy

By December 2022 the office was getting very crowded and it was at that point that I decided a major change was necessary. I was also getting tired of looking for places to put things and losing things amid piles of stuff.

The small desk and hutch had to go. It is a real junk collector but more importantly, the hutch area limits the size of computer monitors I can use and I always work with two monitors. The computer desk and hutch will now go to the curb. The computer desk will remain in the same location, however. A new computer desk with a more open design and a back upper shelf for the monitors is replacing it.

Corner bookcase with spring winder and Bergeon bushing machine

I have been making small changes in the last 4 years but this will be the biggest redo ever. In 2018 I built a shelf for my ogee clocks putting them up on display where they belonged instead of on the floor.

From the left are clocks made by Waterbury, George Clark, and two Chauncey Jeromes

In early January 2023, I added a shelf on the south wall for my Canadian Clocks, the same width, and height.

From the left are clocks made by the Hamilton Clock Co, an Arthur Pequegnat Canuk, two Arthur Pequegant Maple Leafs, and a steeple clock made by the Hamilton Clock Co.
Both shelves

The new computer desk may look smaller but it is in fact one foot wider and made with tubular steel and the finest Chinese pressed wood and veneer that money can buy. It also allows for the scanner (not yet placed in the photo) to be located on a lower shelf. The wires in the back are a bit of an eyesore at the moment but a little cable management will fix it.

The bookcase has been moved to a closet that has had the door removed. With the bookcase out of the way, it frees up space for the lathe.

The basement has a work area where clock case repairs, restoration, painting, veneer work, and so on are done. A year ago I moved my Taig metal lathe to the basement but with the reorganization of my office bringing it back up will eliminate frequent trips up and down stairs.

Basement shop

So, that’s it for now. It’s not finished yet, call it a work in progress. When everything is where I want it to be and I am happy with the reconfiguration I will update with a few photos.

Seth Thomas round top shelf clock – simplicity is its strongest suit

Ah, the days when clock companies put a little time and effort into their designs. The Seth Thomas company, in its heyday, produced many attractive clocks and this eight-day shelf clock is one of the finest examples of the 1870s.

Seth Thomas round top
Seth Thomas round top

It is a rather large round top shelf clock measuring 15 inches in height, 10 inches wide at the base, and 4 inches deep. The attractive Rosewood veneered case has a mirrored rectangular lower tablet. I have seen some with clear glass but I believe the original design called for mirrored glass.

The grain is bold and striking. A sliver of veneer between the 9 and 12 o’clock position of the bezel which was missing when I bought the clock in 2019 has been repaired.

Veneer missing – before the repair

And after the veneer repair.

After veneer repair

Unique stylized hands with “S” on the minute hand and “T” on the hour hand give the clock the look of distinction.

A characteristic feature of the clock is a very attractive lyre 8-day Plymouth time and strike spring-driven movement on a bell gong with alarm. It looks like it is literally stuffed into the case but once the wood dial mount is removed it reveals just enough operating space for this movement which was obviously designed to be placed in a large variety of clock cases.

Side view of the case
Top view

The movement is die stamped “S. Thomas, Plymouth Conn.”. It is fitted with Geneva stops (stop-works) to improve timekeeping. It is nice to see stop works on clocks since they are often missing.

The plates are held together with taper pins rather than screws. The alarm mechanism is located just below the movement and to the left with the alarm adjustment wheel on the center cannon as was common in those days. Both the alarm and the movement strike an iron bell gong. The movement is mounted on the back of the case by means of wooden blocks top and bottom.

Back panel

To remove the movement from its case the rear panel must be unscrewed.

A good label is affixed inside the case and at the top, ”Spring Brass Eight Day Clocks”, “Made and Sold by Seth Thomas, Thomaston, Connecticut”. The label is largely intact save for a small piece missing in the lower right corner and slight water staining on the bottom quarter.

Without a doubt, this is one of the most beautiful clocks in my collection.

Stripping a clock case is a travesty, or is it?

I have saved a few clocks that were one step closer to a garbage bin by taking an aggressive approach to clock case restoration. Is stripping a clock case a travesty?

Firstly, I am not a huge fan of gingerbread clocks which were very popular in America at the turn of the 20th century. Every major manufacturer made them and they sold like hotcakes. Thousands have survived and a quick perusal of online auction sites any day of the week will reveal dozens if not hundreds of them.

The designs were created by using high-pressure rotary presses on oak wood that had been pre-steamed to soften it.

Auction photo

Gingerbread clocks are quite large for a shelf clock and generally unattractive, in my opinion. The only other gingerbread I have, besides the Sessions clock which is the subject of this article, is an Arthur Pequegnat Canuk 8-day time and strike added to my collection in 2019. The Canuk is nicely balanced, well-proportioned, and mildly attractive for a gingerbread clock.

The Sessions Grand Assortment #1, is the ugly duckling of the clock world.

Arthur Pequegnat Canuk

The design of the top is not consistent with the side rails and the base. The crown looks overbearing. It is not very well-balanced and out of proportion but it was the style of the time and thousands upon thousands were sold.

This clock was acquired as part of an auction lot and was relatively inexpensive. I plan to revitalize the case and service the movement but I am not sure at this point whether or not it is worth keeping.

What to do with the case? Here are two shots of the case, the base, and the crown.

Base section

The mottling is what some call alligorating. Over time heat, moisture (stored in an attic or garage), dust, and dirt cause the shellac to coagulate into lumps or globules similar to the skin of an alligator. It is not fun to remove and drastic measures are required to put right.

Crown section

In the past when met with a similar situation I have tried a number of approaches; lacquer thinner, sanding, alcohol, a mixture of cleaners, and so on but the only way to get rid of it entirely is to strip the case. Does stripping diminish the value of a clock? Perhaps, but if done correctly it might even enhance its desirability.

Grand Assortment

The photo above shows a Grand Assortment I worked on in 2019. Obviously, someone added the colouring to the tablet making it somewhat worse rather than better. I cleaned the case of dirt and grime but left the finish as-is. This one has darkened with age but it looks acceptable.

For my Grand Assortment, the only thing that remains is a very aggressive approach. So, off to the shop it goes.

Hmm, is it a Grand Assortment #1 or #1 in an Assortment of Grand clocks?

The year in review – antiquevintageclock.com

Thank you, subscribers and viewers. Whether you are a regular visitor, drop by occasionally, or are visiting for the first time, thank you.

This has been the most exciting year yet for antiquevintageclock.com. The blog has done very well and naturally, it is always a thrill to reach the milestone of the most views in the seven years I have had this blog.

Photo by Gratisography on Pexels.com

It has taken time to build a following, more time than I’ve ever imagined. It takes planning, research, and an investment of energy but most importantly a strong commitment to producing quality articles on a twice-weekly basis.

My first blog article, May 2015

After seven years I still consider myself a clock generalist though I feel I have become an expert in some areas. Judging from the email I received from you I appeal to a like-minded group who have either stumbled onto my site looking for advice and direction on a particular clock repair issue or are regular visitors who appreciate the content and express their thanks accordingly.

Photo by Tima Miroshnichenko on Pexels.com

As I look over the articles that have the most views this year it is clear that most of my viewers from around the world are looking for direction with how-to and general-interest articles topping the list.

American New Haven clock movement

The statistics this year speak for themselves with over 190,000 views, and 101,000 visitors from 161 countries. Over the past seven years, there have been over 525,000 views.

The number of views also supports my blog by providing advertising revenue which pays for blog server space, domain registration, email service, cloud storage, clock supplies, and membership dues for NAWCC.

The most popular articles are:

This year I have introduced a new email address to reduce the number of emails that go astray in my personal email account. The new address is ronjoiner@antiquevintageclock.com. Please continue to write to me with your clock issues and with general comments relating to my blog articles.

Again thanks and if you are here for the first time, welcome to articles concerning clock restoration and repair and articles about antique and vintage clocks in general and if you are a frequent flyer, thanks for supporting me all these years.

30-hour Welch Marine clock loses 10 minutes per hour

Ten minutes per hour! That is slow. American-made spring driven clocks are poor timekeepers and if yours loses or gains a minute or two a week that is just about the best you can expect.

After having worked on the case a few months ago it is past time to work on the movement.

The clock was in running condition when I acquired it though it did manage to run its rated 30-hour cycle.

Welch Marine clock 30-hour time-only wall clock

Something is definitely amiss. Wear, a good cleaning or something more serious. Read on and we’ll find out what is slowing this clock down.

A Ship’s Bell clock is a type of marine clock but in clock circles, there is a distinct difference between it and the clock you see here.

Marine clocks either tell the time or strike the hours like a normal domestic clock and because they have a balance wheel escapement they can be placed on a moving object such as a train or a boat whereas Ship’s Bell clocks originated in sailing ship days when the crew of a vessel was divided into Port and Starboard Watches, each on duty for four hours, then off for four hours.

An assortment of Marine and Ship’s Bell clocks at the National Association of Watch & Clock Collector museum in Columbia, Pennsylvania

One stroke of the ship’s bell indicates the first half hour of the watch. Then an additional bell is struck for each succeeding half hour for a total of 8 bells.

As seen when acquired

Based on a quick inspection I see nothing amiss other than a crimped hairspring on the balance escapement. I wonder if that might be the issue?

The movement is accessed by removing the hands and dial

Now, let’s take this apart and see what we have. Look for a future article as I detail the servicing of the movement.

Happy New Year to clock lovers everywhere

Ringing in the New Year is for reminiscing, reliving, looking back, and looking forward.

We got through 2022 and managed but for many of us, the pandemic has left lasting memories.

Promises were made and broken, plans were made and altered, and hopes and dreams were reshaped.

The antiquevintageclock.com family wishes everyone a Happy New Year.

Now, let’s begin the New Year in style.

As champagne corks pop, glasses are raised and fireworks explode into the sky, it is important to recognize the special symbolism this holiday brings with it.

Amid promises of new beginnings and fresh starts comes a time of reflection and resolutions that more often than not tend to be short-lived. Make an exception this year and make your resolutions last.

Let’s make 2023 the best year yet.

Merry Christmas to clock lovers everywhere

The last three years of uncertainty have taught us to be very thankful for family, friends, and relationships. We are back to some semblance of normality this year although the flu season is certainly upon us.

Wishing you all health and happiness during the Christmas season.

My kids stress every year over what to get dad for Christmas. They know that I am an avid antique clock collector and spend my time restoring and repairing antique and vintage clocks. “Is there anything he needs?”.

Holiday in Lego Land

However, it is the little things I appreciate in my Christmas stocking. Kids, if you want to give me something put a new pair of cloth gloves, a box of toothpicks, cotton swabs, or a paintbrush in my Christmas stocking so I know that you are thinking of me.

Christmas is a time of joy, not of giving, unless the giving is in the form of love and appreciation for friends, family, and colleagues.

So, if you are looking for that special gift for the clock lover in your family remember the simple things.

Christmas at home

May this wonderful time of the year touch your heart and the hearts of your loved ones in a special way.

If there is a clock under the tree consider it a timely gift to remind you of days gone by and of happy memories when families got together to celebrate love, and togetherness, to enjoy a feast to remember.

Thank you for all your letters and I hope you understand that at this time it may take a little longer to reply to you.

Hamilton Clock Co. ogee – a dull and tired case needs help

Should antique clock cases be refinished or rejuvenated? It can be a judgement call. I am all for patina and preserving an old clock case but there are times when certain amount of intervention is practical from an aesthetics and resale point of view.

There is a certain philosophical argument among collectors who believe on the one hand that any intervention is sacrilegious while others feel that some amount of intervention may be necessary to preserve an antique clock.

Auction photo

I won this Hamilton Clock Company 30-hour ogee clock at auction in the spring of 2022 and only now have had a chance to work on it.

I was not specifically looking for a 30-hour ogee as I have 6 already (and who needs another 30-hour clock) but as this clock was made in Hamilton Ontario, Canada it is special to me as adding Canadian clocks is a prime goal as a collector.

Auction photo showing the lower acid etched tablet

A brief history

The company was established in 1876, after the failure of the Canada Clock Company (version 1) in Whitby, Ontario. Using a new factory building and the original production machinery the second company, the Hamilton Clock Co. was formed by three principles, James Simpson, George Lee, and J. F. Collins.

The Hamilton Clock Company made a valiant effort to provide clocks for the Canadian market, in competition with the huge U.S. clock factories in Connecticut that already dominated the market. 

Ogee clocks were manufactured at Hamilton, and these were identical in construction to those that had been made at Whitby with veneered pine cases. After four years the company went bankrupt but was shortly resurrected as the Canada Clock Company (version 2), again using the same Hamilton production facilities. Clock production ended in the mid-1880s and it was not until a new Canadian-owned clock company emerged in 1904 (the Pequegnat Clock Co.) in Berlin, Ontario that Canadian-made clocks resumed production.

It is tempting to group the three companies into one, but the design focus of each company separated them from each other, the early company focused on 30-hour movements and simply styled mantel clocks while 8-day wall clocks and more ornate mantel clocks were a feature of the later company.

The case

Yes, it is dulled and tired and it has had a rough life. These clocks are handed down from one owner to the next and in the process they undergo changes. Some of the changes are reversible and some are not. Luckily this clock can be revived and brought back to life.

There are veneer losses, particularly on the two upper corners and the trim strip along the right side. The bottom strip is missing completely. So the challenge is to replace missing veneer with new and old stock but the end result is not always perfect.

Let’s see what I can do with the case.

A very special Waterbury wall clock – my grandfather’s kitchen clock (a personal journey)

The Waterbury clock hanging in my office brings back memories of my grandfather, a man I wish I had known better. Call it one of life’s regrets.

Now, I didn’t know my grandfather all that well and I’m not sure that many people did. He was shy and a man of few words. I don’t think many people really knew him. In fact, I don’t recall having a meaningful conversation with him.

Rank listed as driver although he was a private in the First World War

He passed in 1962 at age 82 when I was only 12.

My grandfather and his brother came to Canada in 1906. There were many British immigrants at the time as Canada offered new and exciting opportunities for young men. Grandfather came from Shoreham, England where most of his family originated, and was employed with the Postal Service but evidently, postal work was not for him and an adventure to the colonies was a better option.

When he arrived in Canada, he chose Ottawa as a place to live. At the time his future wife lived with her parents. Her mother operated a boarding house where grandfather stayed when he first arrived in Ottawa. You might say that my great-grandmother was a matchmaker of sorts, as she encouraged my grandfather and grandmother to spend time together. She must have thought that since he came from the old country he was quite a catch.

My grandfather spoke only English, and his bride spoke only French. So, how they communicated throughout their engagement and the first few married years is a mystery to this day. Perhaps words are not important after all!

When the First World War broke out in 1914 my grandfather did not sign up immediately but waited until 1916 at which time both grandfather and his brother made the decision to join the war effort. Grandfather was not particularly patriotic, and the purpose of joining was to take advantage of an all-expenses paid trip to Europe and more specifically England where he could reconnect with his family in the Shoreham area. At that point, he had been away from his home country for 10 years.

Imagine my disappointment when I saw this

Neither he nor his brother had any idea that the war would go on for two more years. In fact, they thought, and a lot of people shared the same feeling, that the war would end by Christmas, and they would be home in two or three months. Little did they realize how much longer the war would last and the impact the war would have on two young men.

Waterbury grandfather's clock
The movement had been neglected for many years

My grandfather was a military driver during the First World War and was in Europe between 1916 and 1918. He witnessed horrific things and retained many of those memories. Today people would use the term Post Traumatic Stress Disorder but, in those days they called it “shell shock”. Post Traumatic Stress Disorder would stay with him throughout his entire life.

My grandparent’s home was very quiet but for the sound of the Waterbury time and strike wall clock. Grandfather suffered from anxiety/depression and it didn’t take much to bother him, most likely due to his experiences in the First World War.

The brass bezel was in poor shape and screwed to the case?

After the war grandfather worked for the Ottawa Transportation Commission for a number of years. He was a conductor on a streetcar and when the OTC switched from streetcars to buses, they eliminated the conductor position. Grandfather was told that he had to drive a bus and since he was unable to drive for anxiety reasons that stemmed from his experiences in the Great War, he left work at the age of 50 and never worked again. But he and my grandmother managed with the help of family.

Touch-ups were required and dirt was removed from the brass

My grandfather painted that old Waterbury clock case the color yellow to match the walls in the kitchen. I guess he thought it would blend in with the surroundings and the ticking of the clock would somehow subside into the walls. When they sold their home in Ottawa the clock was passed on to one of my cousins.

Waterbury grandfather's clock
The clock case had no drop door so, a new one had to be made

The clock was tucked in an old barn for many years and when my cousin downsized and moved into a smaller home he wondered if I would have it. In 2018 he contacted me by email and suggested I retrieve the clock. At the time I imagined it was a complete clock with movement, case, and all the important bits but when I picked it up I was disappointed that it had suffered so much through the years.

Waterbury grandfather's clock
Cleaned and ready for the next 100 years

I wish I knew what the clock looked like in its day because what I have left is not the clock I envisioned on my grandfather’s kitchen wall many years ago. I have the movement, dial face, and brass bezel. The case and a few other important parts are long gone. The case my cousin made some 40 or 50 years ago is a heavy homemade plywood concoction. He did the best he could but it was clear that he had little understanding of clock case construction and he got a few things wrong.

However, I was determined to do something with it. It now has new dial glass, a pendulum rod and bob, a verge and crutch, a winding key, and a new drop door. I cleaned up the dial as best I could, refreshed the case, and addressed wear issues on the movement.

Grandfather’s clock, plywood case and all

That old kitchen clock is in my office right beside my desk and ticking away and striking as it should. Although I remember it ticking loudly as a child in the back kitchen the truth of the matter is that it is not a loud ticker at all; it is very soothing.

I contemplated ditching the crudely constructed case and finding a period correct one but the clock with all its warts is what it is. The plywood case, as ugly as it is, is part of the history of the clock. So it will stay as it is and it will always be a reminder of a man I wish I had known.

Sessions time and strike movement with a stiff minute hand

Most mechanical clocks have an hour hand concentric with the minute hand with the hour hand making one full turn every twelve hours. The special set of wheels off the centre arbour is called the motion works. Attached to the centre arbour is the minute hand. The hour pipe fits over the centre arbour and to it is attached the hour hand. This set of gears, called the motion works, is driven by the time train and powered by a spring or a weight.

I am working on a movement made by the Sessions Clock Co. It is from a model called the Grand Assortment probably made sometime before 1920. This is Grand Assortment #1 in a series of three.

Slightly blurry auction photo

The case is in rough shape and certainly needs some tender loving care. I thought my major challenge was putting life back into a tired case (another story) but it appears the movement needs resuscitation as well.

Note from a previous owner, this clock is from around 1915 or so, not 1903

Adjusting the time on the clock is a challenge because the minute hand is very stiff and takes some effort to move it. Something is amiss with the motion works, the time train itself or both.

Motion works at the centre of the movement

I initially cleaned the movement, checked for wear and determined that the little wear I observed should not be enough to affect the running of the clock.

I reassembled the movement and while on the test stand the problem reoccurred, a minute hand that was just as stiff to move as before and after a few hours, the movement simply stopped. I later discovered that the homemade click spring on the time side had unhooked and caught on the second wheel.

As received. Hmm, the pendulum rod is missing

I am not an expert on the meshing depth of gear teeth but I suspect that there is enough wear in the motion works and the time train to prevent the gear teeth from engaging smoothly with the contact point of the next gear, the lantern pinion. The combination of wear in several locations might produce the stiff centre arbour condition. Based on this theory I went ahead with bushing work.

Drilling a hole with Bergeon bushing machine
Drilling a hole in the plate with Bergeon bushing machine

This time I was somewhat more discerning concerning potential wear points and yes, a more careful inspection revealed there was likely enough wear to affect the running of the clock. I began with new bushings on the escape wheel rear plate and third and fourth wheels on the time side and finally the second wheel back plate for a total of 4 bushings on the time side; nothing on the strike side. It looked fine.

Reassembly

The main wheel arbours on this movement aren’t interchangeable. It is easy to confuse the two. After reassembling the movement I noticed that the plate did not go all the way down on the strike side. I compared the two arbours and the time side arbour is narrower at the top. Swapping them back to where they belonged fixed it.

Sessions mainsprings on this movement are not interchangeable

Setting up the strike side correctly on the first go-around is probably more luck than skill but this time there was no additional fiddling with the correct position of the warning wheel which is just below the fly.

I did not completely eliminate the stiff centre arbor but it is improved and the clock is running well. If I have to take it apart a third time I will check for a bent arbour in the train or the center arbour itself or a bent pivot.

Now to address a pretty sad-looking case.

Beyond the basics – more advanced tools for clock repair

See this article for basic tools for clock repair

Let’s assume you have decided to take the plunge and you are at the beginning stages of building an essential tools list for clock repair. Let me help you with your journey.

In the fall of 2022, I wrote about the five essential tools for clock repair. The sidebar will bring you to that article. Tools for clock repair need not break the bank, in fact, you can begin for less than a $100 investment.

The five basic tool groups included the screwdriver, the letdown tool, the pivot locator, the box wrench, and the pliers. If you are ready to move forward with more challenging repairs here are the next set of tools you will require. Assuming you have already purchased the basic tools the 16 additional tools you will require are relatively inexpensive and are the prelude to making your first big jump to specialized and advanced tools.

This time our budget is less than $400 (all prices quoted in US funds).

Let’s begin.

Optivisor or eye loupe

The closer you can see the better. I prefer opti-type visors. I cannot get used to an eye loupe but it is certainly cheaper.

Opti-type visors are more expensive but hinged so that they can be pushed upward and out of the way. I have had a couple of visors in the past but the set I use now is the Magnivisor pro series from Carson which is about $60. The little light at the top goes through batteries fast and sometimes I forget to turn it off, so I don’t use it but you might find it helpful for those dark spaces.

$10 will get you a set of three eye loupes on Amazon.

Magnivisor by Carson

Movement test stand

A test stand is very helpful when disassembling a movement reassembling it and testing it before it is reinstalled in the case.

I have several types for different purposes but I think the one to start with is Gene’s test stand which is under $70. If you are handy in the workshop it is a relatively simple one-day woodworking project that you can build for half the cost.

Clock movement stand
Clock movement test stand

Clock movement work stand

I use two types. The first is movement plate standoffs and the second is a simple 4-inch high stand cut from a PVC pipe. The standoff set is anchored to the bottom plate by screwing brass end pieces to the four corners of the bottom plate (you can use three if you wish). The standoffs are sometimes called assembly posts and are around the $25 range in cost.

If you have 5-inch PVC pipe lying around simply cut off a 3 or 4-inch section.

Standoffs
Standoffs; either three or four can be used
Movement on standsoffs

The PVC is easy to work with and does not leave screw marks on the movement plates if you are particular about that sort of thing.

The movement is sitting on a piece of PVC pipe

Magnifier light

Florescent or LED. A color temperature of 6500k is the best compromise. Newer LED magnifying lights have custom color temperature settings. I see them on Amazon for about $50. Florescent bulbs have a shorter life than LED. Recently mine burned out and the replacement cost for the circular light itself is around $40 (for a $50 lamp!).

Worklight
Work-light

Clock oil and oil applicator

I have not had much luck with pen-type applicators and the few I have had have split with repeated use. Plus I am not sure the oil contained within is of very high quality. I am a bit old-school and use a cupped dipper and oil reservoir. Mobius and Keystone are good brands.

Count on spending $10 to $20 for quality clock oil. Motor oil, WD40, and 3-in-1 oil are not suitable substitutes and for me, the jury is still out on synthetic oil.

clock oil applicator
Clock pivot oil
Clock pivot oil

Movement clamps

When working with mainsprings, spring clamps are an absolute must for safety reasons. More than one beginner in clock repair has injured themselves by not restraining the mainsprings. A set of flat clamps (my preference) are around $17. If you wish to save money heavy steel wire will do.

Assorted clamps
Assorted clamps; flat clamp on the upper left

Tweezers

Useful for encouraging tiny pivots into place, picking up small clock parts, and a hundred other uses. A set will set you back $10. Bergeon will happily sell you a set for a few hundred dollars but cheaper blunt nose and needle nose tweezers will do.

Tweezers
Tweezers

Micrometer

Measurement in clock repair is important and a micrometer is essential. They are relatively cheap and can be had for under $20 at your local hardware store.

Using a micrometer to check pivot
Using a micrometer to check the pivot diameter

Cotton swabs

A general all-purpose probing cleaner for those tight crevices and corners. You will be surprised how quickly you can use up a box of 400. Under $3. Also useful for cleaning out your ears when determining whether or not your clock is in beat.

Cotton swabs
Cotton swabs

Toothpicks

There is no substitute for cleaning clock bushing holes. Buy them in the hundreds, you will need a lot of them. Get them at the checkout counter for under $2.

Toothpicks
Toothpicks

Mini level

A level surface is required to have a clock in beat. This one by Starrett is over $50 but you need not spend that much. Count on about $10.

Level
Spirit level

Spider key sets

The 4 and 5-prone sets in even and odd sizes will be enough for a vast number of clocks. As you move along in your hobby you will accumulate box loads of keys but a spider set is handier. Count on about $15.

4 and 5 prong keys and singles
4 and 5 prong keys and singles

Organizing trays

These are dollar-store items. Great for organizing clock parts (and not losing them). You can pick up a wide variety of sizes for under $10 total.

Organizing trays

Screw head holding screwdriver

I have a set by Klein Tools and find it a time-saver, especially when returning a movement to its case and holding and guiding that finicky screw in place. The gripping action holds, starts, and drives slotted screws in awkward, hard-to-reach places. A word of caution; they can be easily ruined if used to torque a screw in place.

I wish they can be purchased separately for a reasonable cost because I never have used the large one. About $60

Flashlight

Great for locating that nut that mysteriously flies through the air and lands on your floor sometimes never to be seen again. There are many other uses as well. The fancy ones are flexible but I have a penlight which is less than $10.

Flexible flashlight

Set of Single-Ended Scaler Probes

Okay, they are the same ones used by dentists to pick at your teeth but they are perfect for pulling that helper wire into position, guiding a pivot in place, or just about any time you need to pick at something, probe an area, de-scale a tooth (clock teeth, I mean), and so on. I bought mine at a dollar store but a set can be had for around $15.

Scalers

Concluding remarks

And there you have it.

For the next level, the costs begin to escalate but after purchasing these tools, and becoming familiar with clock movements through practice you will want to explore your hobby further. In a future article, I will describe how you spend big money on more specialized tools but also how you can get away with advanced repairs on the cheap.

Tick Talk Tuesday #44 – What can you tell me about this clock?

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

ED writes

Good morning, 

I recently bought a house and the previous owners left this clock behind. It ticks and chimes and seems to be in working order. I’m wondering if you could tell me more about it like what time period it is from and if it is of any value. 

Dial face of the Westminster C

Thank you in advance for your time!

My reply

Hi and thanks for your email.

The Westminster C is an unusual clock because it has 2 gear trains to perform what is usually done with 3 gear trains in most clocks, rare but not unique.  In most chiming clocks there are three trains or three winding points, one for time, one for strike and one for the chimes.

Two train patented movement

This model is based on patent designs filed in 1926 and 1930. Production of the patented movement began in 1927 so, your clock would be around that time and possibly a year or two later. There is a date stamp on the label but I cannot make it out. Could it be 2912, December 1929?

Possibly manufactured in December 1929

The sale price in 1931 was $29.95, a working man’s weekly salary at the time.

It is a very complicated movement that few repairers enjoy working on, because it is difficult to set it up correctly to have it run reliably. If your clock is running well, you are quite lucky because a repair can be very expensive.

They are uncommon enough that they can still fetch a good price on auction sites ($300-$400 or so).

Hope this helps.

ED write back

This is absolutely fascinating! Thank you for your quick reply. I am now looking at that clock through different eyes. 

I appreciate your help, and I hope you have a wonderful weekend. 

Tick Talk Tuesday #43 – Is this a Simon Willard banjo clock?

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

TM writes, “We have had a banjo clock in our family for multiple generations, and knowing my family’s history it would not surprise me if it was a Simon Willard original. I understand that is a long shot but it is so hard to find information about banjo clocks or reputable people to deal with. It is in relatively good condition, not knowing when my family acquired it exactly, but it is original to us. I am attaching a picture and would greatly appreciate your opinion.”

The family banjo clock

I am not an expert on Willard banjo clocks but have seen and read enough to inform me that Simon Willard clocks have distinctive features that separate his clocks from others.

My reply was, “Hi, and thanks for your email.

It may or may not be a Willard patent banjo. It would have to go through a process of authentication. An expert would identify the classic hallmarks of a Willard clock which would include movement design and construction, distinctive case features, door catch characteristics, construction of the dial, how the movement is mounted, design of the throat and lower tablets, and so on.

However, two things immediately strike me as odd. First, I have never seen a Willard patented timepiece (banjo clock) with an Arabic dial. Secondly, Willard banjo clocks have simple barbed spear hands, none as ornate as the ones on your banjo clock. Your clock could be a variant or the dial and hands could be replacements or the clock could have been crafted by another maker altogether.

Again, an expert in Willard clocks would provide the answer you are looking for.”

Simon Willard Patented Timepiece, C.1810; photo taken at the Simon Willard Clock museum in 2019

Simon Willard did little to protect his patent and as a result, many copies were made during the Federal period in Boston and in New England. Associates of Willard and apprentices to Simon and his brother Aaron produced clocks by the hundreds. Some of the copies were of high quality though they did not have the desired cache of a Simon Willard clock. And of course, many are fakes.

Willard clock; photo was taken at the American Watch and Clock Museum 2019

According to Robert C. Cheney, executive director and curator of the Willard House and Clock Museum proclaimed that the timepiece is “probably the most faked American clock found today.” Is TM’s clock an original, another maker, or a fake? An expert would immediately determine if it is real.

The photo at the beginning of the article is the only one sent to me and one photo is really not enough to make any kind of definitive judgment but I don’t believe TM has a Simon Willard Patented Timepiece.

Mainsprings – should they be replaced every time a clock is serviced?

A short while ago I received a letter from one of my readers. The writer asked if I knew the size of a Junghans B11 mantel clock spring. That was it. No mention that the spring was weak or broken, just one sentence with no explanation.

My reply: “I do not have the mainspring size”.

I went on to say: “I rarely if ever replace mainsprings in a German clock or any clock for that matter, especially ones that were made over 100 years ago. I do not measure the springs unless I plan to replace them. The reason is that the steel used for the mainsprings at the time the clock was made is of higher quality than the mainsprings sold today.”

Junghans movement work
Junghans B11 movement with top plate removed

And then I said, “you don’t mention if the mainspring is broken or not. If you suspect it is weak, it may not the mainspring but there may be friction losses up the train preventing the clock from running its designed cycle, so, the reason for the poor performance must be found, plus the movement needs to be cleaned and bushed, if necessary.”

Junghans Corner feet finished
Junghans bracket clock with B11 movement

The reply stunned me. “That’s the strangest thing I’ve ever heard come from a clock repair person. You cannot expect a 100-year-old mainspring to still have the proper power. ANY proper clock repair person would be replacing mainsprings. It’s crucial to proper service.” I replied that if the customer requests that the springs be replaced or if they are broken, they are replaced.

He replied back, “No it’s because it is needed, bud. Spring steel loses its power after so many years. Springs also become set. I have countless pictures showing this and there is irrefutable evidence of this from clock masters worldwide. Sorry but you not replacing mainsprings is doing clock repair a disservice.”

“Bud”, you say!

I refused to be drawn into a protracted argument that would resolve nothing and the correspondence ended at that point but that got my blood boiling.

My take on mainspring replacement

Way back in clock repair circles and I am talking 15 to 25 years ago it was a general rule to replace all “set” mainsprings and the cost was passed on to the customer. And what is the definition of “set”? A real “set” spring is a defective spring that can no longer power the clock. Few mainsprings actually fall into that category, in my view.

Demonstration of the cleaning of a mainspring
Demonstration of the cleaning of a mainspring

But if we acknowledge that mainsprings can become set, a lot of good old original springs will be replaced and then in a few weeks the original problem resurfaces, and it was not the set mainspring after all.

Sessions mainsprings are cleaned and ready to be re-installed in an American mantel clock movement

Some clock repair persons replace the mainsprings as a matter of course because the additional cost of a spring is nothing (or very little) compared to the cost to disassemble the movement and redo the installation if something goes wrong after servicing. If you are in the business of clock repair perhaps and that is your standard practice, there is nothing fundamentally wrong with that approach. It is insurance against a potential future problem.

A broken mainspring that cannot be repaired

Unless the mainspring is broken the mainspring is probably good if the clock runs for the period it is supposed to run when and only if the rest of the clock is in good order.

If there are fractures or cracks along the spring, yes replacement is prudent and necessary but if the fracture is very close to the outer end loop, it can sometimes be repaired. 

Any cracking or serious rust pitting along the spring and I call it defective and replace it but surface rust is rarely anything to be concerned about.

Furthermore, the poor quality of some new springs makes the decision even more difficult today. But if a new spring is required I avoid anything from India or Asia.

When a clock fails to run a lot of people, especially beginners, assume that if everything else looks good to them that the mainspring must be “weak” or “set”, but unless the spring is actually broken or defective, it is probably fine. Mainsprings generally do what they are supposed to do and often take the blame for non-running clock movements

Mainspring servicing
Using an Olie Baker spring winder to servide a mainspring

Many years ago manufacturers installed springs that were more powerful than they needed to be so that the movement could power through inevitable wear over time. If the main wheel teeth are burring out it is generally the result of a replacement mainspring that is too powerful. Re-using original springs if the spring is in good shape is the better course of action. New more powerful springs may make things worse.

I have been acquiring junk American movements and using them for spare parts and a supply of old loop mainsprings. Usually, the cost of old movements is lower than the cost of new mainsprings.

Final thoughts

I am a collector and repair my own clocks. I do not generally view mainspring replacement as necessary unless issues such as those I mentioned above raise their ugly head.

Many people write to me for advice on their clock issue and I am happy to provide what answers I can. They are kind-hearted folks looking for solutions to their antique or vintage clock problem but every now and again I get tested by somebody who thinks they know everything.

There will be as many opinions as there are clockmakers. However, I believe I echo the view of most clock repairers today regarding mainspring replacement, and perhaps dear letter writer, it is you that is doing clock repair a disservice.

My first antique clock – a Seth Thomas Adamantine mantel clock

I have been collecting clocks for over twenty years and for the past 11 years I have been building my collection of vintage and antique clocks, repairing them, and restoring them.

I often reflect back to that first “real” antique clock that my wife and I purchased at an antique store in Blockhouse, Nova Scotia in the fall of 2000. Blockhouse is about 2 hours from our home and during our Saturday excursion in the area, we stopped at various craft and antique stores to see what we could find.

The store is long gone but I remember the day we browsed through the store, looked at several antique clocks, and decided upon a Seth Thomas mantel clock.

The first photo of the clock was taken in December 2000

At the time we thought we were happy with the price we paid though as my knowledge of antique clocks grew I discovered that we paid far more than what it was worth. Still, no regrets.

It sat on an old Willis upright piano for a number of years and since then it has moved to our dining room where it is on prominent display.

The clock in 2016

The clock is an 8-day Seth Thomas time and strike. It is in an ebony case with adamantine features. These clocks are known to collectors as “Black Mantel Clocks”, and were popular from 1880 to 1931. The date on this clock is 1907.

Adamantine veneer was developed by the Celluloid Manufacturing Company of New York City and was covered by U.S. Patent dated September 7, 1880. Seth Thomas Clock Company purchased the right to use the Adamantine veneer in 1881. At that time Seth Thomas stamped the year of manufacture on the bottom of each case.

Type 89 time and strike movement

The movement had to be cleaned but it was in surprisingly good condition with one issue, a stripped regulating gear. Because the gear is stripped the clock cannot be regulated by inserting the small end of a 2-ended key into the front dial. However, it has an adjustable pendulum and I will stick with that until I find a donor movement.

Regulating gear cannot be saved

We ran it for a number of years until 2016 when I took the clock apart, cleaned it, and installed 4 new bushings.

It is not a clock that I keep running continuously but every month or so I wind it up and run it since antique clocks need to be “exercised” occasionally.

The clock today with gold scrolling restored

Given its sentimental value, it will stay in my collection.

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