The count wheel is on backward – oops

Those of you who work on mechanical clocks regularly must have run into this situation at least once. Everything went perfectly until the very end.

Sessions time and strike movements are very common and I have worked on quite a few over the years. They are reasonably well constructed with the exception of a well-documented poorly designed click.

The other day I was working on a movement that I had originally serviced 5 1/2 years ago. Back in 2016, I installed 10 bushings, quite a number for any clock but it was very worn. It has run exceptionally well since then but now it was time for an inspection, cleaning, oiling, and correcting any possible issues.

I took the movement apart, cleaned the plates, wheels, and levers in my ultrasonic cleaner (which I did not have back in 2016), and reassembled the movement. As expected the movement is much shinier than before and looks like it came off the factory floor.

During my inspection, I found minor wear but the only location where a bushing was required was the second wheel backplate. I could have left it but it was worn enough to need a new bushing.

It’s back together and being tested. Okay, I had to open up the strike side to reposition the stop wheel to correct warning but that’s about it.

It now runs perfectly and a nice pat on the back for me but oh! oh! wait…..it is not quite perfect, because I don’t think three o’clock follows four.

Dang, the count wheel is on backward. Why didn’t I see that?

You probably expected me to express a few choice words but I looked at it and said, ha, that’s too funny!

5 minutes was all it required to put it right and now it sounds great. Four o’clock now follows three o’clock. Yes!

April 16, 2022

Sawin banjo clock – wood dial bezel fix

This banjo clock project has been an ongoing challenge for nearly a year, a very enjoyable one that has taught me so much.

The movement has been serviced, 4 new bushings installed, the case has been cleaned, veneer issues addressed on the two bottom corners, a new post was made for the final, dial glass has been replaced, the hands rubbed down with steel wool to remove rust, the bottom section of the rails on both sides re-glued, some flat-head screws replaced (with smaller flat-head screws taken from old cases) and the old brass cable was removed and replaced. The dial was left untouched.

There is a simplicity about the case design that I really like.

The old and tired suspension spring should be replaced. I cannot source the spring alone but I am reluctant to pay for an entire pendulum assembly. It has been straightened and it works well for now.

The last step is addressing the crack in the wood dial bezel.

The age crack is just above the number eleven on the dial. It was likely cracked long before I bought it.

Hot hide glue was used to close the gap but the repair did not work. The hot hide glue has a low bonding strength and it separated after just a few weeks (a dry house in the winter does not help).

I had difficulty closing the gap with string and ecstatic bands so, I purchased a band clamp designed for furniture repair, so let’s see how that goes.

A band clamp might just be the ticket but there is always the risk of the bezel splitting again, perhaps not in the same place. Option two, which I prefer not to exercise at this time, is to fill in the crack and simply live with a slightly larger bezel that may not fit the dial door catch exactly.

There were many choices on Amazon and I selected one of slightly better quality.

When the clamp arrived, rather than apply the glue immediately I clamped it unglued for about a week theorizing that memory in the wood would be retained when glued. Yep, just a theory! In addition, if it were to crack in a different place that would have been the time it would happen.

Since hot hide glue was simply not strong enough I used glue with a much higher bonding strength, Gorilla glue, because it will hold. Perhaps hide glue with a higher bonding strength might have worked but I just don’t have that on hand. I am usually a stickler for authentic methods but sometimes a more modern glue is the only option.

Wax paper is used to prevent any residual glue from sticking to the band and the surface the bezel rests on. The curing time is 24 to 36 hours, the reason for the sticky note. It cured for almost 48 hours. Enough time I would think.

Two large flat-head slotted screws for the hinge hold the wood bezel in place and on went the bezel.

And the result after 10 months of working in stages, is a complete and functional banjo clock that, in my view, looks absolutely stunning.

April 9, 2022

Several clocks bought at auction this spring

I am an avid collector of antique and vintage clocks which means I cruise the online auction sites regularly, about once or twice a week. This spring I checked out offerings from a local online auction site that deals with estate items, placed bids on 4 clocks (actually 5 since one lot had two clocks). The one I did not win was a 6 column Sessions mantel clock but no real loss there.

I won the bids on four clocks. CDN110 was the total though with buyers’ premium and taxes the price jumped to CDN147, still not bad for a small collection of antique clocks.

I do not have these clocks as of this writing since they are sitting at the auction house but I think can make a preliminary judgment based on what I see in the auction photos.

Although I am normally not in the business of selling clocks I will sell the odd one to keep my collection manageable. The plan is to fix these clocks and sell them to offset clock equipment purchases most notably an Adams Brown Timetrax 185, an electric clock timer, an amplifier that measures the rate of mechanical clocks by sensing escapement action and mechanical sounds of the escapement which I recently purchased. Here they are.

Unknown cottage clock

In no particular order of importance let’s start with an octagon cottage clock from the 1870s or 80s. It is a 30-hour clock judging from the placement of the winding points.

From the style of the pendulum bob and the case itself, I would say an E. Ingraham & Co. time and strike cottage clock. Some would have come with an alarm. This one does not.

It is in fair shape. The dial appears to have serious losses and there are nicks and scratches over a good portion of the case from what I see in the photos. I wonder if the tablet is a replacement and the original reverse painted?

It is difficult to tell with the harsh auction light but the case might be made of rosewood.

It will be a good candidate for a mild refresh and should look very nice when completed.

Sessions Grand Assortment #3

Next is a Sessions Grand Assortment #3. I have worked on one in the past. There are three models in the Grand Assortment series and despite the fact that it is a lowly gingerbread clock and thousands of similarly styled clocks were sold by every major American clock manufacturer, this model is surprisingly collectible.

It is an 8-day clock with a steam-pressed oak case. The case looks very “aligorated” a term applied to a shellac finish that has coagulated as a result of being stored in a hot, humid environment such as an attic or a garage.

The tablet looks good but the dial is very degraded. This is a paper-on-metal dial and when the metal below the paper rusts the stain bleeds through to the front. This is called “foxing”. These stains are very difficult to remove and cost-prohibitive for most clocks. This is a cheap clock and a dial replacement is the only option and as such, I am not sure what to do about it.

A note is attached to the key and it says 1903. It is doubtful it was actually made in that year and I am sure the previous owner went by the year Sessions Clock Co. acquired clock-maker E.N. Welch Co. though the clock is certainly from around that period.

Reconditioning the case might be a challenge. Is it a candidate for stripping down to the bare wood? I suspect it is but we’ll see. I also see a small crack just above the top of the dial, so it might have been broken off at one point and re-glued.

I am not sure about the pendulum bob which does not look quite right for this clock. More research should provide me with the answer.

E Ingraham Ocean and Ansonia kitchen/parlour clock

Next is a two-for-one deal.

The one on the left is an E. Ingraham steam-pressed 8-day gingerbread possibly from the Ocean series. Unfortunately, it is missing its decorative tablet and that will certainly affect its resale value.

The pendulum looks right for the clock and the case itself looks to be in decent shape but as I said, it is very unfortunate that the tablet is missing.

The pieces at the foot of the gingerbread clock belong to the clock on the right. Usually, when I see pieces like this it tells me that it was handled roughly by the auction house.

What I like about this clock is its timeless design, almost Art Deco but made long before the Art Deco period.

So who is the maker of the clock on the right?

The auction description simply says, “unknown clock”. I believe it is an Ansonia 30-hour (position of the winding arbours) kitchen clock in Walnut from about the early 1880s. The tablet is bright and vivid, not a design I have seen before but likely original. Attaching the top pieces should be a fairly simple process and thorough cleaning of the clock case clock and movement should make it an ideal candidate for resale.

Of the four, two are 30-hour clocks. I have found that 30-hour clocks are a tough sell. Most casual collectors are looking for an 8-day clock since 1-day clocks are a hassle to wind but I think I can make both presentable enough to attract some buyers.

The auction notes do not say whether any of these are in working order. They are all “untested” which is typical auction-speak for “they may or may not work – the risk is yours!”.

American clocks are very tough and often work well despite being very worn. I suspect with a little encouragement I can get all of these clocks working again.

Now, to pick them up from the auction house.

Check for upcoming articles on each of these clocks.

April 2, 2022

Tick Talk Tuesday #38 – Swigart replacement dial

_{Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer}

GB writes:

Yesterday I pick up another strange clock and the dial has a monogram/mark: EJS, after searching it turns out to stand for E. J. Swigart but that company, from what I read, didn’t make clocks, just replacement parts so am I to assume the clock, images below, has a replacement dial/face? Does it diminish its esthetic value? I was told it is 1840 ogee. Miraculously enough it works!

My reply:

You are correct. E. J. Swigart made parts for jewelers and watchmakers but they are best known for their replacement dials. Their logo is often confused with the Sessions Clock Co. or Seth Thomas. Swigart are respected for their dials and their commitment to making them as original as possible. They operated into the 1970s (the trademark was registered in 1896). I don’t believe it would diminish the value of your clock, after all, the replacement dial might be over 100 years old!

GB writes back;

Splendid! Thank you again. Your help and advice are priceless.

March 15, 2022

Sawin banjo clock – almost done, 3 more items to address

I have written about this clock several times in the past 10 months but I am making good progress which I will detail in this article.

This is how it arrived at my house last spring, dull and lifeless but with good bones and most everything original.

_{Dirty and dusty and ready for restoration}

First, some background information about the clock.

This federal-style banjo clock was made in the 1840s perhaps as early as 1840. I am reasonably certain it was made by John Sawin of Boston, by either himself or one of his apprentices or associates.

The movement and case construction bears a strong resemblance to a Willard timepiece and there is a good reason for this as John Sawin apprenticed under Simon Willard and was a journeyman under Aaron Willard, famous clockmakers of the day and makers of the original patent timepiece.

_{The movement which is based on the patent timepiece by S. Willard}

Unfortunately, there are no identifying markings on the movement or the case but key indicators such as the placement of the movement mounting “ears” and the design of the door and bezel catches tell me that there is a very strong connection to John Sawin, enough to say that he is the clockmaker.

So far…

I have completed repairs on the case aside from the wood bezel mentioned later in this post. The repairs include new veneer pieces, harvested from an old mahogany ogee clock, a new post for the acorn finial, and two applications of traditionally prepared shellac.

_{The hands are attached to measure timekeeping}

The movement has been cleaned, serviced and wear issues addressed.

The glass dial was broken and new flat glass was ordered and installed. The old weight cable was replaced.

The dial, with some stains and discoloring, will be left as-is.

Three issues that have slowed me down

The three issues are a weight cable that is too short, a twisted suspension spring, and a cracked wood bezel.

Weight cable that is too short: The clock stops when the weight is three inches from the bottom of the case and runs six days instead of the usual eight. I have run the clock several times and the clock consistently stops on the 6th day. I believe that the brass cable was frayed from wear and a previous owner shortened the cable rather than buy a new one. I have various sizes of cable and have chosen a slightly thicker brass cable with a nylon core. The nylon core prevents the cable from snarling and coiling plus the more robust cable is more than enough to carry the heavy iron weight.

However, a thicker cable results in a double layer. The cord will wind down from the top layer and the diameter of the drum has been increased due to the first layer. This means that with each turn more length of the cord will be removed from the top layer. Thus, the weight will reach the bottom of the case sooner than intended, reducing the runtime. A thicker cord makes it even worse. I believe I have struck the correct balance between thickness and length as the clock now runs its full 8-day cycle. Had the cable been any thicker the runtime would increase.

Since it had to be taken apart to install the new cable I cleaned the pivots, pegged out the pivot holes, and re-oiled the movement. Problem solved.

Twisted suspension spring: The keystone is the piece between the suspension spring and the pendulum leader. It very nearly hits the large wheel of the motion works on the left side as a result of a twist in the suspension spring. A bent spring is a consequence of leaving the pendulum assembly on the movement during transport.

A weight driven banjo clock must be partially disassembled when transporting and damage could result if the steps are ignored.

Unfortunately, I cannot source the suspension spring as a separate item and must purchase either the keystone and suspension spring together from an American supplier or the entire spring, leader, and stake for about $55.00 from a Canadian supplier. It does not make much sense but in the meantime, I have managed to straighten the suspension spring and it is functioning better than it was. Problem partially solved.

Cracked wood bezel: The crack is just above the number eleven on the dial. It was cracked initially and I used hide glue to close the gap. I now realize that hot hide glue I am using has a low bonding strength because it separated after a few weeks (a dry house in the winter does not help).

I have ordered a band clamp designed for furniture repair and will use stronger glue. However, I run the risk of the bezel splitting again and perhaps not in the same place. Another option is to fill it and simply live with a slightly larger bezel that may not fit the dial catch exactly. Problem not solved, yet.

There are three iron pin hooks that hold the dial in place. The hooks are twisted inward to secure the dial.

In the meantime, it is keeping perfect time.

_{Clock face is installed, missing is the wood door dial bezel}

I am in no hurry for this clock. It is worth moving slowly with the repairs and ensuring that everything is completed correctly.

March 12, 2022

A Sessions clock is on the bench 5 years later – what needs to be done?

A mechanical clock is a machine and all machines require periodic maintenance. Five years might be considered a long time since the movement on a Sessions time and strike mantel clock was first worked on when 2-3 years is the norm between service intervals but let’s agree that it has not been an easy time these past two years and priorities have shifted.

I have not opened this clock up since 2016 and I wonder if any surprises await me. I worked on this clock in 2016, so, it is a judgment on my own workmanship.

It was purchased locally from a person who knew absolutely nothing about clocks, making a few bucks on whatever he could get his hands on. He could not tell me one darn thing about it only that it was not working. The case was in rough shape and it was less than $40, so, I bought it.

Although I had worked on several clocks prior to this one, it was an important part of my journey in clock repair because I was now able to put my newly acquired Bergeon bushing machine to the test.

_{Bergeon Bushing Machine} _{purchased in 2016}

Back then I installed 10 bushings, replaced the pendulum bob and suspension spring, oiled the movement, reinstalled it, and refreshed the case. Not the best timekeeper in the world but that is the nature of spring-driven American clocks of that era (the 1920s).

Disassembly and Inspection

I always approach the inspection and servicing of a clock that I have serviced in the past in much the same way I would service a clock that has just come into my collection. The steps are identical; inspect, restrain mainsprings, clean all parts, peg out bushing holes, polish pivots, address wear issues, assemble, oil and test. This clock is no different.

_{Backplate off and} _{showing the helper springs}

First, remove the hour and minute hands. Next, put the clock on its face and remove the 4 screws that hold the movement in place. Pull the movement out of the case, place the case aside, and let the mainsprings down into the mainspring retention clamps.

Never attempt to take apart a spring-driven movement without first restraining the mainsprings. This is a very important first step in clock repair and it is obvious for safety reasons.

Mainspring contained in a clamp — _{Mainspring contained in a retention clamp}

During the servicing, as I usually do, I will check all pivots and bushings but most particularly the mainspring clicks which is a well-documented weakness in Sessions movements.

As I began taking the movement apart I noticed a badly kinked suspension spring which will have to be replaced. This usually occurs when a clock is moved without removing the pendulum bob. We have had some home renovations this past two years and the clock has been moved about the house. My fault, actually.

I generally take many photos during servicing but there is no requirement this time since I have kept the photos I took from 2016. However, if anything is noteworthy at this juncture, I will record it.

One item I did not own five years ago was a high-quality ultrasonic cleaning machine. The movement is dirtier than I expected and there is blackish oil around some (not all) of the pivots. I was probably a little overzealous with oiling and perhaps not as careful as I should have been polishing the pivots. It definitely requires a good cleaning and my American-made L&R Quantrex 140 with internal heater will be put to good use.

I have been working with so many German movements lately I can’t remember the last time I worked on an American one, let alone a Sessions clock. It has been months, so, here we go!

I pulled the plates apart and inspected the movement for wear. There is more blackened oil up the train (mentioned above) than I was expecting which tells me that if not addressed now it will lead to accelerated wear of the pivots and bushing holes and eventual stoppage of the clock. There is the tiniest bit of wear on the 4th wheel back-plate but not enough to justify replacing at this time.

The second wheels, front, and back, which were not attended to then, may now need attention. The good news is that all the replacement bushings from 2016 remain in very good condition.

It looks like at least one new bushing on the strike side wheel, not surprising since it bears the brunt of mainspring power. While there is some wear on the other three I can live with it but the fourth on the strike side back-plate is somewhat oval-shaped as you can see in this photo.

Though not as bad as others I’ve seen in American clocks that are well worn, there is enough play in this wheel to justify a new bushing.

The click and rivet design are a special problem on Sessions clocks, and I am happy to see that both clicks are in good condition after 5 years. It might be unfair to criticize parts that are nearly 100 years old. The photo shows what a worn click would look like.

_{Worn click on another Sessions movement}

After the parts are cleaned in the ultrasonic and thoroughly dried, the bushing holes are pegged and the pivots polished. Now for the new bushing.

The pivot measured 1.62mm and I chose one with an inside diameter of 1.60mm. After broaching (cutting followed by a smoothing broach) it was a perfect fit.

Now for reassembly. The strike side levers with helper springs under tension can often be a challenge to stay in place during reassembly but the key is patience. Oiling and testing are next.

What did the movement look like after 5 1/2 years? The blackish oil was a little concerning but overall the movement is in great shape. It is certainly cleaner and shinier than before.

And it runs like a charm.

March 8, 2022

Dating an antique or vintage clock – Part I

There is no single method of dating an antique or vintage clock but there are some strong clues in some cases and subtle inferences in others that help determine when a clock was manufactured. Occasionally, the exact month and year is displayed somewhere on the case, and in other instances the clock by way of serial numbers, date stamps on the movement, style of hands, spandrels, dial design, case design, and so on, establishes the date to within a certain period.

This is by no means an exhaustive reference but my thoughts on how to date a clock. I will therefore rely on various examples in my collection.

This is the first part of a two-part article. In the second part, I will explore additional clues for determining a clock’s age.

Elisha Manross steeple clock

This Elisha Manross clock is an attractive steeple design. Steeple clocks were made in the thousands from the early 1830s to the end of the century. A steeple clock is a type of mantel or shelf clock characterized by its pointed, spire-like top, which resembles the steeple of a church. These clocks were particularly popular in the mid-19th century and were produced by various American and Canadian clockmakers, including Seth Thomas, Chauncey Jerome, and others.

Elisha Manross was an important pioneer of the Connecticut clock and lived from 1792 to 1856 and he was the maker of the steeple clock pictured above. A distinctive feature of this particular clock is brass mainsprings.

Brass mainsprings for Manross clock — _{Brass mainsprings, Manross clock}

From 1836 to 1850 brass mainsprings were used in clocks because steel was considered very expensive. It was not until 1847 that the tempered steel mainspring developed for everyday clocks was introduced and with it, the brass mainspring faded into clock history.

This provides an important clue when dating this clock, that it was made before 1850. The second clue is the label located inside the case. Elihu Gere, the printer was in business at 10 State Street Hartford Conn. The printer’s name and address are located on the bottom of the label And this tells us that the printer was at this location until 1847. Armed with these pieces of information one can date the clock from about 1845 to 1847.

Daniel Pratt Jr reverse ogee columns with splat top

Next, is a Daniel Pratt Jr. shelf clock. A distinctive feature of this clock is that it has a woodworks movement. A woodworks movement is a type of clock mechanism/movement made predominantly from wood rather than metal. These movements were commonly produced in the early 19th century, particularly in the United States, during a time when wood was more affordable and readily available than brass or steel. Woodworks movements were very common before 1840 and were considered the first mass-produced clocks.

Daniel Pratt (1797-1871), Jr., clock-maker, banker, town clerk, and legislator, lived in the town of Reading, Massachusetts, in the 1800s. Pratt did not contribute much to clock-making and was widely regarded as an entrepreneur rather than an innovator.

This particular Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse Ogee shelf clock was made in Reading, Massachusetts, c. 1832-38, within that six-year period. It has a splat-top mahogany case with half reverse Ogee moldings flanking the door, painted wooden Roman numeral dial, mirrored lower tablet, and wood dial face. The mirrored tablet was considered a luxury at the time.

McLachlan tall case clock

It is a classic Scottish design from the mid-1800s. The removable bonnet is 23 inches at its widest point, the waist is 15 3/4 inches wide and the base is 20 inches wide. The bonnet has tapered columns on either side. The dial access door which covers the entire bonnet swings to the right. The solid wood access door on the waist measures 9 X 24.

The well-preserved sheet iron white dial has painted spandrels, each one depicting an ewe with a lamb and a painted arch top showing a man resting on a rock with two working horses directly behind.

The robust movement is made in the Guild style and movements contained in these clocks are commonly called “English bell strikes” with anchor escapements.

McLachlan was not a clock-maker in the true sense of the word but rather an assembler, bringing the dial, clock case, and movement together to assemble into a tall case clock for a particular customer. Signatures on a clock dial may or may not refer to someone other than the clock-maker. 19th-century retailers and distributors often put their own names on clocks in an attempt to ‘brand’ their products. The actual movement may have been made by someone else likely in Birmingham England. 19th-century clock cases were almost always made separately from the movement and are rarely signed.

The name Wm McLachlan, of Newton and Stewart, is inscribed on the dial. In his book, Clock-makers & Watchmakers of Scotland 1453 to 1900 David Whyte lists McLachlan, William, clock & watchmaker in Newton-Stewart, Wigtownshire as a business advertised for sale on 25 May 1852. McLachlan either retired or passed away before the sale date. Newton-Stewart is a former burgh town in the historical county of Wigtownshire in Dumfries and Galloway, southwest Scotland.

This clock was therefore made between 1848 and 1852. The painted dial which originated in or around 1810, the style of the hands, the style of spandrels, the shape of the arched dial, and the shape of the case are other clues that it was made within that period.

Sessions Beveled #2 tambour style mantel clock

This Sessions tambour style clock represents a very popular style of clock sold in the 1920s and 1930s in the USA.

It is a fairly attractive mantel clock featuring a toned mahogany finish with faux inlay below the dial face. Faux inlay was an affordable way to enhance a clock’s decorative details and a common feature of clocks of this type in the 1920s.

_{Label on the inside of the access door}

Sometimes, the exact date of manufacture can be pinpointed down to the year and month, making dating straightforward. In this instance, the clock was produced in September 1927.

Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock

Dating a clock can sometimes be challenging, and unfortunately, this particular clock is difficult to date with precision.

Arthur Pequegnat kichen clock — _{Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock}

In Canada, the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company produced clocks from 1903 to 1941. Before the First World War, the company operated in Berlin, Canada. During the war, the city’s name was changed to Kitchener in 1917 due to anti-German sentiment at the time. This small piece of information helps to approximate the date of a Pequegnat clock.

Below the six on the dial is the inscription “The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. Berlin, Canada,” but neither the case nor the movement provides any clues to narrow the date beyond the period between 1904 and 1917.

I hope the examples I’ve shared provide some helpful insights into dating a clock. This is the first part of a two-part article; in the second part, I will discuss additional clues for determining a clock’s age.

March 3, 2022

If it says Regulator on your clock it is likely NOT a Regulator?

A century ago, clock manufacturers understood the power of marketing, and the word “Regulator” became a key tool in their strategy to boost sales. By simply labeling a clock with “Regulator,” they could make it appear more precise and desirable, even if it wasn’t a true regulator. But did this marketing gimmick work? Let’s take a closer look.

_{Seth Thomas #2, typically used as a railroad time clock}

By definition, a regulator clock was, and still is, a clock used as a standard for setting other clocks. Regulators were commonly found in businesses, railroad stations, public buildings, even churches and tower clocks, where townsfolk would adjust their personal clocks based on a clock that was trusted to be accurate. Early regulator clocks played an essential role in keeping communities synchronized in their daily routines.

Take, for example, the Gilbert calendar clock shown below. Advertised as a “Regulator,” it does not fit the true definition. With a spring-driven, time-only movement, it is accurate to within a minute or two per week, which is typical for spring-powered clocks. While the calendar feature is useful and the clock is attractive, it lacks the precision of a true regulator and would not be relied upon for setting other clocks. Still, it had the appearance of an accurate clock.

_{This Gilbert calendar clock is not a Regulator}

Are there exceptions to this rule? As always, there are exceptions. The Welch Spring and Company produced a clock from 1874 to the mid-1880s certified for use in train stations. This double-weight, time-only clock, reminiscent of the well-regarded Seth Thomas Regulator #2, was stenciled with “Regulator” on its access door.

Given its constant weight-driven power and deadbeat escapement, it was likely a very accurate timekeeper and well-suited to any environment where accuracy was critical, such as a train station, business office, or public square.

_{Double-weight time-only Welch clock} _{– is it a regulator?}

This particular Welch clock, now a museum piece at the American Watch and Clock Museum in Bristol, Connecticut, has been meticulously restored. When it was received, the lower tablet was missing, leading to questions about whether it originally came with the word “Regulator” on the access door. The answer is yes, some did, and some didn’t—there was a tick box on the order form for this feature.

So, while the use of “Regulator” on a clock often served as a marketing tactic to imply precision, there are instances where it genuinely signified accuracy. As a general rule, though, it’s safe to assume that many clocks labeled “Regulator” were more about selling an image than offering precise timekeeping.

In the world of clocks, the term “Regulator” was often used as a clever marketing strategy to sell more timepieces by suggesting greater accuracy. While some clocks with this label were indeed precise, many were simply designed to look the part.

As a buyer, it’s important to look beyond the label and evaluate the clock’s true functionality and history before assuming it lives up to its name.

The Arthur Pequegnat Regulator No. 1: A Canadian Collector’s Dream

My Seth Thomas Regulator #2 Clock five years later

The Quirky Charm of a Vienna Regulator Clock

Vienna Regulator – the pinnacle of clock artistry

January 26, 2022

A custom test stand for weight driven ogee style clocks

A few weeks back I published an article on clock testing stands. While a single clock stand would be ideal for all movement testing purposes there are so many different types and styles of movements that one size does not fit all.

The one stand I was missing was for testing weight-driven ogee style clocks whether they be 30-hour or 8-day or select clocks that would require a pulley system for the weights.

Aside from an easy setup and quick mounting of a movement for testing it allows me to inspect the movement from all sides

Rather than construct a stand-alone ogee test stand I decided to make it a companion to my tall-case clock stand. Mounting atop the tall-case stand means that it is at the optimum height for making adjustments.

I also wanted something I could easily remove if I needed the long-case stand for testing and it is simple to set up.

Salvaging case parts from an old ogee simplifies the construction of the stand. It can be done without ogee case parts but it means devising a pulley system and making rails with slots for the movement seat board.

The ogee clock was purchased along with three others for $20 but the ogee clock case was in such poor condition it could not be restored.

A movement came with the case which I use for spare parts. The veneer has been harvested and used for other projects. The remaining wood pieces are stored and ready for use in future projects.

The tall-case stand is 48 inches high and will accommodate more than one movement although I generally work on one movement at a time. It is square-shaped and very stable though when used to test grandfather clock movements it is anchored to a wall to eliminate or reduce sympathetic vibration.

The tall-case stand is braced on all sides and the framing around the 4 legs adds additional stability and strength.

Clock stand two rails off — *Taking the rails* out

The rails, made of yellow oak, a hardwood, chosen for their strength.

The two pieces I am holding are the oak rails that are designed to fit into the top of the stand and are fully adjustable width-wise depending on the size of the movement.

The ogee stand is 10 inches high and has stabilizing rails under each side that rest on the oak rails. There is a cross brace in the front and back to give it strength and lateral stability. The top from an old ogee case is ideal because the pulleys are in the correct position for the weights.

The rails easily take the weight of a 30-hour movement which is about 7 1/2 lbs total. Will it take the 13 lb+ weight of an 8-day ogee? Yes. There is no need to screw or nail the ogee stand to the oak rails as the combined weight of the movement plus weights are enough to anchor the stand in place.

I painted the stand to match the tall-case stand.

I chose Espresso latex paint because it does a great job of hiding my carpentry errors.

*Testing the time side of a Waterbury ogee movement*

Aside from an easy setup and quick mounting of a movement for testing purposes it allows me to inspect the movement from all sides.

It works as expected and now I can use the stand instead of the case for testing.

I know there is another ogee clock in my future!

January 15, 2022

Best clock acquisition of 2021

The time has come to determine the best clock acquisition of the past year. As a clock hobbyist, I have had little difficulty locating interesting clocks over the years, and despite the seemingly never-ending pandemic, I have scored a few in 2021 though the past year has been leaner than most.

In the early days of collecting, simple time and strike vintage mantel clocks were my principal focus so that I could take them apart, repair them if necessary, and generally advance my learning. Many of those clocks have been either sold or gifted. For the past three years, I have shifted my focus toward collecting interesting clocks, rare clocks, or clocks that have a special provenance that even includes the odd mantel clock.

My wife is my best clock finder. Our discussions often go something like this; “did you see that wall clock on Facebook?”. “Let me see. Yeah, it looks good, what do you think? Make an offer?” and off we go. Sometimes I will accept the offer from the seller without negotiating because I feel it is a fair price and other times there is some wheeling and dealing prior to firming the sale.

At the end of the post, you will have an opportunity to vote on what you think is the best in 2021.

In no particular order, here are my finds for 2021.

Sawin banjo clock

This is a garage sale find and even though it was purchased in the spring of 2021 it is still a work in progress. The clock is over 180 years old and in pretty decent shape.

It is a weight-driven banjo but it has no markings. An educated guess is that it was made by John Sawin of Boston or one of his associates on or close to 1840. I have completed minor veneer work on the case and have replaced the broken glass dial. The movement has been serviced but I am now looking at clock parts supply sources to replace a badly bent suspension spring. I want to avoid paying an outrageous price for the complete assembly; suspension spring, leader and spike.

Gilbert mantel or Shawville clock

I call this the Shawville clock because it spent most of its life in Shawville, Quebec (Canada).

It was a family clock for many years and following a death in the family, all possessions were either sold off or given away, a very common practice today. It has a time-and-strike Gilbert movement in a mahogany tinted case that has led a kind life since its manufacture in 1917. It is simple and unadorned and that’s what I love about it. I serviced the movement, cleaned the case, replaced a broken hour hand and now it is on prominent display in our home.

New Haven tall-case clock

An interesting $90 acquisition is this New Haven tall-case clock with a secret. Wow, a tall-case clock for $90, you say. Despite the look of a weight-driven clock, it is, in fact, a spring-driven clock. I was unaware of this until I walked through the door of the seller. I bought it anyway.

The weight cans are empty shells and they are simply there for show. The movement is quite large, eight-day, of course, and looks to be very robust. Despite my best efforts to determine if it was originally weight driven it had to have been spring-driven from the start, in other words, no evidence of a seat board or any additional holes for mounting the movement to the case. This appears to be an early “kit clock”, i.e. movement, dial face, hands, pendulum, “weights”, and ladder chains bought from the New Haven Clock Company and fitted to a pre-made case.

The case was very dark from years of accumulated dirt and grime and vigorous scrubbing revealed a wonderful red oak finish.

Waterbury Wren mantel clock

Another clock with a secret is actually a disappointment. I found it in an antique store and it reminded me of an Ansonia Syria I had worked on for a friend last year, so, I was drawn to it.

It has a Waterbury case and what I thought was a Waterbury movement, but no.

It is missing the brass bezel and glass which is easily replaced but what is most disappointing is the mismatched movement, a Seth Thomas time and strike, which obviously replaced the original movement presumably because it was worn out. The movement is well-made and runs well but at the end of the day, the clock is destined to be sold.

Schatz Schatz carriage clock

This is a Schatz carriage clock made by August Schatz and Sohne of Germany. Thousands of these were sold and given as gifts through the 60s and 70s. It has an interesting lower visible escapement and an exposed movement.

Although it is working and keeping time it runs for about 4 days and stops. A cleaning is called for (on my list). It has a wind-up key in the back much like a typical alarm clock. It says West Germany on the dial and made, I would say, in the 1970s. August Schatz and Sohne closed in 1985, a victim of slow sales and a shift to quartz clocks by other makers.

Chauncey Jerome ogee clock

This clock is original in many ways, with a nearly flawless case made of mahogany veneer over softwood, moon hands, a wood dial, and a movement that matches when the case was made. Even the pendulum bob looks original. It was missing the suspension spring and rod and a wooden movement block, all easily sourced.

It cleaned up nicely and was a good candidate for a fresh coat of traditionally prepared shellac. I have three other 30-hour ogee clocks and this one is the most original of the bunch.

E. Ingraham Grecian shelf clock

This is a very nice shelf clock from an estate auction. It is an Ingraham Grecian clock with an alarm feature. If you have ever used the alarm on an old antique clock your first impulse is to throw it through a window, it is so loud and it goes on and on till the spring winds down.

It came with incorrect hands and I had the darnedest time sourcing them but searching various suppliers in Canada and the US paid off. The case has been cleaned and the movement serviced including the infuriating alarm.

Fleet Time Co. mantel clock

An inexpensive clock that had huge potential but left me frustrated. Fleet Time Co. of Montreal had a short life of 4 years before the Second World war when they lost their source of German movements.

I stripped the case and re-glued some sections, applied a walnut stain and I was very pleased with the final result. I serviced the movement, wound the time side completely, and BAM, kerplunk! the sound of a mainspring exploding. Sometimes you can get away with just replacing a mainspring and other times, like this, it took out the barrel teeth and a leaf pinon on the second wheel. I placed it in a plastic bag and it is now on a shelf in the basement awaiting donor parts.

Hamburg American Clock Company. (HAC) mantel clock

This German-made mantel clock has an interesting 14-day movement, an early production type from HAC. HAC is short for the Hamburg American Clock Company, a German company which had a long history up to the time it was absorbed by Junghans in the late 1920s. This clock was made in or around 1895.

It was another estate sale find. The case is nondescript and nothing special, but quite elegant.

So…..

Tell me what you think and I will reveal what I believe is my best acquisition this year in the next post. Let’s see if we agree.

January 5, 2022

The Moncton – double spring time only – Part II – servicing the movement

I love this clock. It is one of my favorites. Bought in the fall of 2018, it has been on the kitchen wall and running ever since. Arthur Pequegnat clocks have a solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs, are among the most dependable and reliable clocks in my collection. this model is called the Moncton.

The Moncton was a regular fixture in offices and was then considered a “high-end” office clock. Many also found their way to rail stations across Canada. There were two variations of the Moncton, a short and a long version.

Those made before 1917 were known as the First Issue and had a tapered bottom piece. The second issue had a rounded bottom with a middle cut-out.

They are attractive clocks inspired somewhat by the Seth Thomas #2 although the Moncton has a 15-day double spring driven movement instead of the single weight of the #2.

I knew it required servicing but with so many other clock projects in the way I never got around to it. In my last post I took the movement out of its case and discovered that there is not a lot wrong with it.

The time-only movement is stamped Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company

It was dirty as expected and long overdue for a cleaning.

The movement is pretty simple with 4 wheels and an escape wheel plus the motion works. The two springs apply power simultaneously but one side can be wound if the other spring fails though the clock will run but for a shorter period.

The mainsprings are not what I expected, They are half the width of a typical time-only American clock. There is a reason for this. The Graham deadbeat escapement requires between one fourth to one half the driving power than the same clock using a recoil escapement. Less drive power means less wear over time. Having very few gears and little friction in the gear train also improves efficiency and time-keeping.

The Movement

The movement is attached to a support frame bolted to the case.

There are two screws holding the movement on the bottom that must be loosened and two long screws that go through both plates that hold it on top, much like a Seth Thomas #2.

Once disassembled I inspected the movement for wear.

I discovered the lantern pinions and pivots to be in very good condition for the age of the clock.

The movement might have been cleaned at one point but there is no evidence of past repairs. The bushing holes are a little worn but not enough to warrant bushing work at this time.

Consequently, cleaning parts in the ultrasonic, polishing the pivots, cleaning the mainsprings and pegging out the bushing holes was the extent of servicing.

The movement was assembled and mounted in the clock for testing.

*Cleaned and returned to the case for testing*; ***notice the two top mounting screws***

It will run for a cycle or two before I re-attach the dial and hands.

A pretty simple servicing requiring less than half a day of my time.

December 22, 2021

Traditional shellac improves the appearance of an ogee clock case

This Chauncey Jerome 30-hour or one-day clock from about 1844-1845 is the example that I am using to illustrate the advantages of using traditional shellac as a finish coat.

The mahogany veneer is in very good condition and it is evident that the clock was not subject to the abuse one would expect of a 180-year-old clock. There is a small dent in the upper left corner but it is hardly noticeable. There are a few scratches here and there consistent with age but all in all the veneer is in great shape.

First, is cleaning the case. My go-to cleaner for clock cases is Murphy’s Soap. It does a great job of lifting years of grime and dirt from the veneer. The tradeoff is that once you remove the dirt it reveals shellac loss. It was my intention to apply a coat of shellac in the first place so, when I got through layers of dirt and discovered some of the finish gone, I was not too concerned.

Since there are no veneer repairs, refreshing the case was pretty easy. I am not a big believer in maintaining the patina of a clock. if pt is dirty it needs to be cleaned!

I use traditional shellac consisting of flakes mixed with shellac lacquer. I use a wide artist’s brush to apply the shellac and it always produces a superior finish.

I have decided to leave the lower tablet as-is and as for the dial, I haven’t yet decided on whether or not to address the faded chapter ring though I am also leaning towards leaving it as-is.

The movement has been serviced, the clock is running and striking as it should and I think it looks great after the case refresh.

December 14, 2021

Veneer repairs on an 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice clock

Seth Thomas column and cornice "Empire" style time and strike shelf clock

This 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice time and strike shelf clock with sleigh front needed a little love. It has a Plymouth Lyre movement with a Thomaston Conn. label. The clock was made in the 1870s. and purchased five years ago and has been running since.

I will take you through my early days of veneer repair. It is probably not my best work but it was a fun and challenging project plus, there was good learning.

A previous owner had applied brown paint on areas of veneer loss, it looked ugly and when I saw that I decided the case could use a little tender loving care. Many of these clocks are in decent condition for their age but if you are shopping for column and cornice clock from this era take note of veneer losses. You may want to reconsider your decision to purchase if you feel it is not worth the time, effort and expense or if there us so much loss that it is unsightly.

Of course, there is always the school of thought that advocates leaving things as-is and that is perfectly fine. But, a little veneer work is minimally invasive, in my view.

Veneer issues

The most troublesome sections were the top and bottom of the case and the column base, not surprising since those are the prime targets of wear and tear over the years. Most of the cornice veneer is in good shape as are the door sections, door surrounds, and the sleighs just above the feet. Although there is work to be done, I have seen worse.

The veneer used at the time was Brazilian Rosewood, an exotic wood. Rosewood would have been used extensively by clock-makers of that era and replacement Rosewood veneer would be the correct choice. I have two 7 X 8 inch pieces of Rosewood veneer, more than enough for this project.

Prep-work and other case issues

The cornice on the left side was missing a section and that had to be attended to before the veneer work began.

Using scrap softwood I made a small piece and trimmed it roughly to fit. In this photo, I am testing the piece and making minor adjustments for a snug fit. The section is then glued in place and allowed to dry for 24 hours.

The top area of the front cornice is now ready to be faced with veneer.

The sections with brown paint had to be sanded down to the bare wood to improve adhesion before gluing the new veneer.

In selected areas, small sections of old veneer were removed to make way for larger replacement pieces.

I have decided not to tackle the columns. There are some losses but from a reasonable distance, they are fine.

Hide glue and Bloom strength

The one true adhesive for antique clock case applications is hide glue. Hide glue would have been utilized at the time the clock was manufactured.

I chose pearl hide glue which is rated at 150g Bloom strength (500g Bloom strength, the maximum, is not necessary for this type of repair). 150g hide glue takes a little longer to gel and adhere but with the slightly longer working time moving pieces around for best fit is easy.

To ready the adhesive place the container with the gelatinous glue in a bath of water in a pot specially designed for hide glue or a double boiler which worked equally well for me. Heat to approximately 140°F (60°C), using a candy thermometer and maintain the temperature throughout. Heating the wood surface with a hair dryer before applying the glue is an option. Full strength is reached when it’s dry, and that can take 24 hours.

An excellent article on hide glue and its strength properties can e found here.

It is best to start with a small batch. Put 2 tablespoons (30ml) of glue in a glass container and cover with 1 tablespoon (15ml) of cold water and let soak for about an hour or until the glue softens and becomes gelatinous. To make a larger batch simply follow the 2 to one rule. I recommend making small quantities, to begin with. If there is glue left over I find that it can be frozen and reused later with no ill effect.

Tools

Clamps, weights, tweezers, wax paper, a sharp knife, a metal straight-edge, painter’s tape, a micrometer, sandpaper, palm sander, and whatever you choose to use as a double boiler complete the list of tools.

A micrometer is an indispensable tool for accurate measurements. Accurate measurements ensure a good fit, minimize the use of fillers and lessen waste.

Cutting, trimming & clamping

The cutting of veneer can be tricky. Veneer is brittle, and can easily tear. Veneer today is quite different than veneer used 100+ years ago as it is very thin. On some clocks you must double-up or layer the veneer to approach the height of the original veneer. Another alternative, and a better option, is to harvest veneer from old clock cases. Old veneer is thicker, is very close to the look and feel of the original finish but just as brittle.

If old veneer is hard to work with, softening it with water will have a small and short-lived effect on a veneer’s flexibility. Another option is a product called Super-Soft 2, said to be ideal for softening veneer. For the little veneer work that I do I cannot justify the cost of a commercial softener and water is satisfactory for my purposes.

The next photo shows a veneer section glued and clamped into place. Wax paper is used to prevent the glue from sticking to the clamp. Clamps are essential for veneer repair but when clamps do not work other methods such as weights can be employed. Leave the clamp on for 24 hours for maximum adhesion.

Cutting can be a challenge since you must follow the grain and narrow strips can break very easily. Painters tape prevents tearing and is easily removed from the veneer prior to or after the application.

The most challenging areas were the very top and very bottom of the case and the column bases but after many hours the veneer work is now complete. The next step is colour matching the new to the existing veneer.

_{Top of cornice veneer} _{with new veneer}

Rosewood Minwax Gel stain is a close match to the older veneer but I would recommend experimenting with a coat of shellac first before applying a stain, in fact, a stain should be a last resort.

There is always good learning resulting from each project and in retrospect, I should have replaced the entire section under the left sleigh rather than cut two pieces of veneer to fit either side of the existing piece.

_{The completed case includes a repainted dial and replacement upper tablet}

As with any other project, there will always be a slight colour variance between old and new veneer and the goal, as always, is to come as close as possible to the original finish.

The last photo shows the completed clock with a repainted dial and a new middle tablet.

December 10, 2021

Chauncey Jerome 30-hour movement – two unusual issues during servicing

I was not really looking for an ogee clock to add to my collection. But there it was sitting in a lonely corner of an antique shop calling me, “buy me”; and I did.

It is probably the oldest one in my collection of 4 other ogee clocks. It was made in or about 1845. Now, being old does not necessarily make it valuable. In fact, millions of these clocks were produced and many found their way to online auction sites in recent years contributing to a huge drop in value. You can find them online for a little more than I paid for mine but they are pretty cheap nonetheless. This one was $54.

The case label located on the backboard inside the clock case was printed by John Benham in 1845. Comparing the movement in this case with one found on a popular Jerome database site tells me that it is a type 1.311 Jerome movement. Jerome movements were typically marked though some, like this one, were unmarked which is not unusual.

So, the case and the movement are near enough in time to tell me that the movement is very likely original to the case. That is always a good sign as many ogee cases had worn movements replaced over the years. In some cases, there was little intertest in matching the maker of the case to the movement especially if a customer’s only wish is to have a working clock and since the movements were interchangeable it made it that much easier. Many of these clocks are over 180 years old and one can expect some subtle and not-so-subtle changes over the years.

While very attractive and running well this clock (below), a “marriage”, is an EN Welch case with a Waterbury movement. When considering the purchase of an ogee clock, if it is important to you, check that the movement and case are from the same maker though that is not an absolute guarantee they started their lives together.

What is original and what has been replaced?

Typically parts that have been lost/damaged or replaced over the years include the verge, suspension spring/leader, the pendulum bob, the weights, the hands, and case parts like pulley dust caps. In some cases, the lower tablets have been removed altogether because of breakage or severe paint loss, replaced by a clear glass panel, a mirror, a photograph, or a picture (often from a discarded calendar).

The leader and suspension spring are missing. The verge appears to be a replacement, the weights look original as do the hands and pendulum bob. There is a missing top movement block that secures the movement to the backboard and that is about it.

I am reserving judgment on the frosted glass tablet; it may or may not be original. It would be pretty exciting if it were a Fenn design but I doubt it. William Fenn was one of the more prolific tablet-makers of the mid-19th century. The dabs of red paint are certainly added later.

The clock dial, likely original, is signed C. Jerome below the twelve o’clock.

Assessment of the movement

This is a typical 30-hour or one-day time and strike movement.

I found some wear and I was expecting some past repairs. There is a repair date of 1863 on the inside of the access door but I can’t make out what was done at that time.

There are two bushings installed on the front plate, the second wheel, and the hour gear. On the back, there are four replacement bushings, evidence that it has had acceptable servicing. One seldom finds replacement bushings on an ogee clock. Most movements I have come across have punch marks around the bushing holes, a common practice by past clock repairers to close elongated holes.

Three of the replacement bushings will have to be redone and new bushings are required for the back-plate time side main wheel and the strike side back-plate main wheel for a total of five.

The pressure washer for the time side main wheel is completely worn out. Had I not separated the wheel and ratchet for cleaning I would not have discovered the problem but it tells me that it could fail at some future point.

_{To the right is the pressure washer with centre worn through}

I have a donor New Haven 30-hour movement that will provide the replacement washer.

The lantern pinions have some wear but are quite acceptable. One trundle is loose on the escape wheel. Rather than take it apart and re-seat the troublesome trundle, a dab of Loctite Red should fix it in place.

These are two unusual issues but not insurmountable.

_{A lantern pinion with a loose trundle}

Because the movement was so oily and dirty I pre-cleaned the parts prior to putting them in my ultrasonic. This helps extend the life of the solution. I used a medium bristle nylon brush to clean the stubborn areas.

After cleaning and drying the parts, the pivots are polished and I was pleased to find almost no wear on any of them.

Next is the bushing work. My only concern was pushing out what remained of the bushing material in the replacement bushings after drilling. I went slowly and did not apply pressure on the cutter, letting it do its work. As I suspected the Bergeon bushings are marginally smaller but each bushing fit snugly. Although I planned on five bushings, I installed six, adding a bushing for the second wheel on the time side front plate which was a little more worn than I thought. I left the escape wheel as-is, the wear is acceptable.

Next is restringing the weights, re-assembly, and testing. All went as expected.

I have worked on a few of these movements over the years but unique issues always seem to come up. Nonetheless, they are fun to work on.

Following the movement servicing, I will move on to refreshing the case.

December 7, 2021

Sawin banjo clock movement servicing – two issues arose later

Weight-driven banjo clocks have simple time-only movements that are very reliable. They can be unadorned like the one I acquired or garish almost to excess like a presentation timepiece. Authenticity can be a challenge since some presentation timepieces started life as simple wooden cases and decorative tablets, finials, sidearms and other items were added later but I love the simplicity of this one.

^{Presentation banjo clock by Foster Campos}

Finding one for $75 is highly unusual but I am convinced the seller had no idea what it was worth. When I picked it up the seller asked me if I was interested in another clock he had for sale, a 30-hour mantel clock. He told me someone valued it at $300. Uh, no, not interested!

This federal-style banjo clock was made in the 1840s. I am reasonably certain it was made by John Sawin of Boston in 1840 or thereabout, by either himself or one of his apprentices or associates. The movement and case construction bares a strong resemblance to a Willard timepiece and there is a good reason for this.

John Sawin apprenticed under Simon Willard and was a journeyman under Aaron Willard, famous clockmakers of the day and makers of the original patent timepiece.

Unfortunately, there are no identifying markings on the movement or the case but there are key indicators, for example, the placement of the movement mounting “ears”, that tell me that this is a Sawin clock.

Everything is original to the clock, weight, hands, movement, pendulum rod and bob. The dial glass was was broken at some point in the clock’s life. It had convex glass and a good many I have seen with wood bezels had flat glass. Brass bezel clocks, on the other hand, generally had convex glass, so, I have decided to replace it with flat glass.

The movement

The gear train is relatively simple and consists of 4 wheels; the main wheel, second wheel, third wheel, and escape wheel. The motion works are on the front plate.

Assessment of the movement

As expected there is wear but consistent with the age of the clock. The movement looks good overall, the gear teeth and pinions are in very good condition but, there are punch marks around the pivot holes. It is never a good feeling to see punch marks around the pivot holes. Punching effectively closes the pivot holes but in a very crude way. This was an old practice and is not considered acceptable today.

Pivots are required for the main wheel front plate, second wheel back-plate, third wheel, and the escape wheel front plate. The verge may require front and back bushings but I will see how things look when the other bushing work is complete. Three are 2mm wide Bergeon bushings, the fourth is 2.5 and the main wheel bushing is larger. I don’t often work with bushings as small as 2mm and it simply means extra care must be taken to cut and ream as accurately as possible.

There was a good amount of movement in the main wheel arbour and installing a bushing was necessary to tighten things up. I have bushings that are 1.5 mm and 3mm thick but the plate is 2mm. A 3mm bushing was installed and using a file I reduced the height to 2 mm. Three other bushings were then installed with no issues.

I have decided to leave the verge bushings as-is for now.

The weight cable had no kinks or broken strands, I cleaned it in the ultrasonic and reused it. For brass cable, I generally knot each end and use solder to secure the knot to prevent it from slipping out of its knot.

Two weeks later and two issues

The weight cable is too short. The clock stops when the weight is several inches from the bottom of the case and it will only run six days instead of the usual eight. Why was the cable shortened? Who knows?

A second issue. The keystone is the piece between the suspension spring and the pendulum leader. It comes very close to hitting the large wheel of the motion works on the left side. Since the suspension spring is quite bent the right side of the keystone rubs against the back of the dial face stopping the clock. A bent spring is a consequence of leaving the pendulum assembly on the movement during transport.

Unfortunately, I cannot source a suspension spring alone and must purchase either the keystone and suspension spring together from an American supplier or the entire spring, leader and stake for about $55.00 from a Canadian supplier. In the meantime the movement runs until I put the dial on.

I am in no hurry for this one and will continue testing it until I come up with a solution for the bent suspension spring.

December 1, 2021

Antique or Vintage Clocks: The Perfect Unique Gift Ideas

Ah, the holiday season is upon us, what to buy? Are you are looking for a unique gift for a friend or family member. An antique clock may not be anything you have considered but wouldn’t it make a terrific gift.

_{Mauthe time and strike wall clock} _{from 1895}

If you know a little about antique or vintage clocks or you know nothing at all, you may need some help finding the right clock for that special person. I will give you a few pointers plus an explanation of some of the terms you may come across.

Why buy an antique or vintage clock?

A year ago I sold a clock to a young woman who was looking for a unique gift for her father. She responded to my advertisement by saying that it was exactly the clock she was looking for because it reminded her of the family clock when she was young.

Sentimental reasons, satisfying the need to acquire anything antique, or the uniqueness of an old mechanical clock top the list for reasons to buy an old clock.

What is the difference between antique and vintage?

It is not easy to tell the age of a clock, or, for that matter, anything in an antique store and, ads for clocks seldom tell the year it was produced although it might hint at the period it was made, for example, “mid-century”. A quick trip through the world of Google will give you a general sense of how old something is give or take a few years.

_{Vintage Kienzle wall clock from the 1930s}

An antique is anything over 100 years old and vintage is less than 100 years but more than 30 years old. Anything that is less than 30 years old may be considered vintage but more often called collectible.

Mechanical or something else

This article focuses on mechanical clocks but there are a lot of different types of clocks out there and online auction sites are filled with every type imaginable. It can be confusing to the shopper.

As a general rule quartz clocks have limited value and very few would be considered collectible.

Electro-mechanical clocks have a traditional mechanical movement, which keeps time with an oscillating pendulum or balance wheel powered through a gear train by a mainspring but uses electricity to rewind the mainspring with an electric motor or electromagnet. Something quite different is the electro-magnetic clock, popular in the 1950s. Both types can be highly desirable but leave that to the professional collector who knows specifically what they are looking for.

In the 1930s electric shelf, desk and wall clocks were introduced into homes everywhere. Some have value but most are not worth the trouble.

_{Sessions 3W electric table clock 1927}

They are great timekeepers but are often quite worn, dangerous to work on, and can be difficult to repair. I would not give one as a gift unless you know that it was serviced by a competent professional.

My advice is to stick to an antique or vintage mechanical clock.

One last note; beware of conversions, clocks where the mechanical movement was taken out for whatever reason and replaced by a quartz movement. They are worthless but some people fall for this sinful and deceptive practice.

Type of clock and placement

Space is the biggest consideration.

_{Antique Seth Thomas alarm clock from around 1910}

In the trend towards smaller homes, there is not always space for a clock. Mantel clocks require a shelf or table to put them on.

Simple time-only or time and strike clocks can be quite small but others may have more a complicated Westminster chime movement in a larger case. Alarm and desk clocks occupy the least space.

_{This 1917 Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator is 51 inches long}

Wall clocks are easier to place. Wall clocks come in all shapes and sizes from the diminutive cuckoo clocks to large box clocks and Vienna regulators.

Floor clocks, otherwise called grandfather or grandmother clocks, tall case, long case or hall clocks are the most difficult to place. Unless the person in mind would appreciate one and has sufficient floor space I would not recommend one.

Working or non-working clock?

A working clock that has been recently serviced by a competent clock repairer is the most desirable. However, if the clock will be a decoration or part of the decor and a working clock is unimportant, you might find them less expensive to purchase. Perhaps one with a replacement quartz movement might be okay as long as you know that’s what you are getting.

Clock buying tips

_{1990s Ridgeway grandfather clock} _{takes up space}

Look for a working clock over a non-working one. Chances are it has been better cared-for over its life span.
Facebook Marketplace, eBay, your local online for-sale site (we have kijiji in Nova Scotia), reputable estate auction sites, antique stores and word of mouth are among the best sources.
Most common clocks are priced reasonably. Clock prices have generally fallen over the last 5 years but expect to pay more for rare clocks or those with a special provenance.
Stay away from Chinese made or Korean clocks or most anything that has directional arrows around the winding points. They have very powerful mainsprings and will potentially harm the user if the springs break.
The maker of the clock is largely unimportant. For example, all American clock producers made cheaper and more expensive lines of clocks.
A little research is always helpful before you make the purchase. A little knowledge might be a dangerous thing but knowing nothing is worse.
It may or may not be important to you if the clock has been altered in any way but it is nice to know. For example, many old ogee clocks are attractive but have had a replacement movement installed when the old one failed. In the clock world these are called marriages and it makes a difference to some people.
Try to inspect the clock in person before you buy. Surprises are never nice when you discover something sent to you is not what you expected.

Well, if you are looking for a clock for that special person I hope I have given you something to think about before you put your money down.

I should say that I am not in the business of selling clocks but will sell the odd one locally to keep my collection manageable.

November 23, 2021

Circa 1845 Chauncey Jerome Ogee Clock

An ogee clock is so-called because it is a 19th century U.S. shelf clock with a distinctive S-curve (convex above and concave below) molding.

30-hour ogee clocks were very popular from the early 1840s to as late as the 1890s, a good run for a distinctive style of clock. Before the days of the Internet, these clocks fetched hundreds of dollars at auctions houses and antique stores. Along came eBay and prospective buyers quickly learned that large numbers of these clocks were produced in their day and the supply of clocks flooded the net and prices dropped accordingly. I have 5 ogee clocks among my collection of over 100 clocks and have never paid more than $60 for any of them.

Of course, there are exceptions to the rule. The distinctive case has housed movements other than the 30-hour time and strike commonly found and some are quite desirable. Fusee, single weight 8-day time-only, calendar models, minis, Gesso fronts, 8-day time and strike clocks, and a few unusual ones have good value.

30-hour clocks are worth collecting and if you a new to clock repair, they are a great clock to begin your journey.

This is a Chauncey Jerome 30-hour or one-day clock from about 1844-1845 and based on my research, the movement is from the same period. So, an excellent chance that the case and movement started life together. The pendulum bob looks very old and hard to say if original as pendulums often go missing during a clock’s life. But I’m not sure a modern pendulum bob would have similar detail.

The dial is in good condition with attractive Gesso spandrels although the Jerome name under the twelve is barely readable and the chapter ring has faded. The moon hands also look original and the clock came with the correct weights. The mahogany veneer, while very dirty is almost flawless.

Not original is the strike bell as the clock would have had a coil gong. The suspension spring and leader are missing. A top wooden block that attaches the movement to the case is also missing and the label, printed by John Benham, though readable, has some losses. The suspension spring and leader can be easily sourced, the block fashioned from old stock and I have a spare Jerome style coiled gong in my parts bin.

The tablet design did not look original at first glance but after removing a piece of cardboard (first photo) and Christmas wrapping paper behind the glass I discovered a frosted tablet with thistles and flowers. The red paint might have been added and it is very possible that it was not painted originally.

The plan is to service the movement, source missing parts, and refresh the case.

I am not a strong believer in maintaining the original patina which one reader opined is just another word for dirt. The case will be cleaned with Murphy’s Soap and a coat of shellac will be applied.

Original materials and techniques will be used when working on the case. This includes the use of traditional shellac (flakes mixed with shellac lacquer), and fasteners like old slot head screws, old wood, and square nails. The replacement coil gong is very similar to other Jeromes I have seen and will come out of a donor ogee case. There are a few stray pieces of label at the bottom of the case that will be glued back in place.

There is not a lot of demand for ogee clocks today as reflected in their asking price. Perhaps the 30-hour ones are considered a hassle for some as they must be wound once per day, nevertheless, I find them very appealing.

Coming soon will be an article on servicing the movement and later on, refreshing the case.

November 19, 2021

My Approach to Clock Restoration

Every clock enthusiast has their own way of doing things and each has a different approach to clock restoration. Am I different? Not really, but I have put some thoughts to paper that you might find interesting.

Like everyone I started out knowing virtually nothing about clock restoration but learned as I went. As I gained confidence and improved my skillset I took on greater challenges.

Not long ago I bought a nice 30-hour non-running Chauncey Jerome ogee. I would not consider this clock a huge challenge but it will help explain my approach to clock restoration.

The case is from the 1840s and based on my research, the movement is from the same period. There are a few things wrong with it and that is expected from a 176-year-old clock.

Four Options

The clock case and movement are very dirty and the clock certainly has some issues but I am happy to report that a lot is original. It is on my bench. Now, what do I do with it?

I have four options:

Do nothing. Leave everything as-is, preserve the patina and display the clock without servicing the movement or cleaning the case.
Service the movement so that it is in running order but do nothing to the case, again preserve the patina.
Clean and refresh the case but leave the movement as-is.
Service the movement and clean the case, making small repairs if necessary.

Option 1. There are very few clocks where I would do absolutely nothing. If the movement is beyond my capability or requires a complex repair and the case requires extensive repairs or any intervention on my part will potentially make it worse, I will leave it alone.

Option 2. Not a good option for me. There is no point in servicing a movement if is going back into a dirty case and risk the movement becoming contaminated with dirt and debris.

Option 3 If the movement is beyond my capability or requires a complex repair I will leave it alone and proceed with cleaning the case.

Option 4. This is my preference. My end goal is minimal invasive intervention which means that I will service a movement and address wear issues where necessary. I will refresh the case if it is grimy and requires a good cleaning. I am not a strong believer in patina which one reader opined is just another word for dirt. As much as possible, I use original materials and techniques when working on the case. This includes the use of hot hide glue, traditional shellac (flakes mixed with shellac lacquer), and fasteners like old slot head screws, and square nails.

In rare cases where I am met with a significant challenge, I will perform a complete restoration with the goal of bringing the clock back to its original condition. I call this extreme restoration.

Here are two examples. Both of these clocks are running daily.

I believe that some amount of intervention is not only necessary but desired by collectors and I also believe that there are situations where a wholesale ground-up restoration is the only option.

In the case of this miniature Vienna Regulator cleaning and oiling the movement, and polishing the brass was the only intervention.

*Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock*

My position regarding changes to a clock

My end goal is a functional clock that presents well. As far as I’m concerned a non-working clock must become a working clock because that is the nature of its existence.

If a clock has important provenance and extensive repairs to the movement and/or case alter it in a negative way and I will leave it alone.

And what does the ogee clock i mentioned in the beginning of this article look like now?

I am sure you will agree that it is not a dramatic change at all but it is now a working clock that presents well.

November 14, 2021

Gilbert mantel clock movement servicing

Let me say that I am not a huge fan of clocks with steel plates. Although most have brass bushing inserts punched into the steel, I am always fearful that there is not enough brass in the insert to prevent cutting into the steel plate and ruining a cutter. But in this case, my worries were unfounded and this clock presented no such headaches.

The movement is stamped 17 which was Gilbert’s way of identifying the year the movement was made, which in this case is 1917. The case design is somewhat reminiscent of clocks made in the early 1920s but Gilbert no doubt made a run of these movements and put them into various clocks some years after the Great War.

It is a time and strike with a passing strike on a bell on the half-hour.

I was not really looking for a mantel clock but I saw it online during the summer of 2021 and I thought it would be a good summer cottage project to keep me busy. I didn’t have the right tools for bushing work so I cleaned the case, replaced a broken hour hand, inspected it for wear, oiled it, and ran it through the summer.

It certainly needed cleaning but a month of running would do no appreciable harm. It was reliable and it kept reasonably good time, or as reasonable as one could expect of American clocks of this period.

It looks like one of those clocks that had a few years of running, was disassembled and cleaned at least once but spent most of its life sitting prettily on a shelf.

There are a number of scratch marks on the movement which tells me that it has been worked on before. No bushing work was done but I see punch marks around the escape wheel bushing rear plate and that’s about it.

*Pivots and lantern pinions are all in great shape*

There is minimal wear; the lantern pinions are in very good shape as are all the pivots. As for bushing work, based on my initial assessment at least 4 bushings are required; second wheel strike-side backplate; third wheel time-side backplate; second, third, and fourth wheel strike-side rear plate. But, the wear is consistent with a clock that has reasonably good care during its life. There was plenty of brass material for the inserts and bushing went easily.

The movement has more than its fair share of helper springs, two in the upper part of the movement for the striking levers and two in the bottom, one for the half-hour strike on a bell and one for the hour strike. Getting all these helper springs to wrap around their respective posts is frustrating but doable although it is probably helpful attaching the lower springs while assembling the movement rather than wrestle with the springs after the movement is put together.

I have worked on a few Gilbert time and strike movements over the years and this one was no different. It is midway through the second 8-day test cycle and running well.

Other than some new bushings and a replacement hour hand, that is all there is to it.

I like this clock. It has simple lines, looks good and I think I will keep it.

November 10, 2021

John Sawin banjo clock CA 1840

John Sawin was a prolific 1840s Boston clockmaker and many of his clocks have survived to this day.

The Key features of the Sawin timepiece share many of the attributes of the original Simon Willard Patented Timepiece. They are:

No striking parts reducing the number of wheels to a minimum for simplicity,
Making the distance between the plates wider allowing sufficient cord on the barrel allowing it run 8 days,
The push-pin catches on the bezel and lower access doors,
Placing the pendulum in front of the weight to ease repair and regulation,
The weight is reduced and made longer and wider,
The pendulum and guide are placed in front of the movement,
An oblong space in the pendulum so that it swings clear of the centre pinions and hour and minute collars,
The method of mounting the movement to the case. Works are fastened by two “ears”, the top right and bottom left backplate,
The calculation of the train in consequence of shortening the pendulum,
No method of securing the pendulum when transporting the clock,
Acorn top finial and wood dial bezel
The shape of the case,

The earliest timepieces from Roxbury had long screws from the front plate into the case in the upper right and lower left. Beginning about 1820 in Boston a single bolt from the back of the case into the movement was used as per Howard & Davis and E. Howard. North Attleboro movements had holes in the backplate in the upper right and lower left for screws into the case.

A John Sawin movement is distinguished by brass ears attached to the movement back plate in the upper right and lower left. Other Boston area clockmakers might have used the same casemakers so their cases probably would look similar to his.

Cases came from one of several casemakers in the Boston area. Case construction is helpful in identifying where the clock was probably made and movement for the maker, however by the 1830’s movement construction had become so generic that was really difficult to identify the maker. It is probable that were many small workshops run by former apprentices and/or journeyman clockmakers that supplied movements to the trade as needed by the existing makers in the various cities so it makes things even more complicated.

The real differences were how the movement was attached to the case and that gives us information on where it was manufactured.

The John Sawin Banjo headpiece is carved out. With the dial off, the headpiece of the case looks like two crescent moons facing each other, thin at the top and bottom and thick in the middle. There is a piece of cloth glued to the inside top of the case to hold the 2 crescent moons together.

*Two crescent moons make up the headpiece*

Unfortunately this clock has no identifying markings which means that it is quite possible that while it may not have been made by John Sawin himself but one of his associates or one of his apprentices. Still in all, it is a nice-looking clock and looks great on any wall.

October 29, 2021

Gilbert shelf clock

I am always on the lookout for clocks to add to my collection, and one of the places where bargains can often be found is Facebook Marketplace. While browsing the listings, we came across an intriguing clock from a small village in Quebec. It was my wife who pointed it out, thinking it would make an interesting addition to our collection.

From our summer cottage in Quebec, we made the short trip—about half an hour—to a nearby town to see the clock. We learned it had spent its entire life in this quaint village. Due to the pandemic, we arranged the purchase in an unusual way: the agreed-upon amount was sent to the seller via eTransfer, and they left the clock in a recycling bin outside their home for us to pick up. The entire transaction took place without any in-person contact, making it one of the more unique methods I’ve used to acquire a clock.

The clock was wrapped in a plastic bag with a note attached that said, “Thank you.” As we drove away, I wondered if a clock purchased sight unseen would be what we expected.

It is a very simple clock, but we were pleasantly surprised by its condition—it has clearly had a good life. This clock is an excellent example of a nondescript mantel clock that could be found in thousands of homes across Canada and the USA during the 1920s. Companies like Seth Thomas, Sessions, and others produced similar styles to appeal to those who could not afford the more elaborate, feature-rich upper-range mantel clocks offered by most manufacturers of the time.

The clock had been listed on Facebook Marketplace for $40 but had no takers for over three months. When the price was reduced, we decided to buy it.

It was described as a non-running clock, but the key, pendulum bob, and all parts of the movement were intact. The only flaw is the hour hand—the spade end has been snapped off. While the clock is nothing extraordinary, once cleaned up and put in running order, it should look presentable and run well for years to come.

Normally, I avoid American mantel clocks from the 1920s and ’30s, as I’ve owned several in the past. However, I found myself drawn to this clock, largely because it appeared to be untouched and well-preserved. I expect some wear consistent with its age, but at first glance, it looks promising.

This clock was made by Gilbert, a well-regarded American clock manufacturer with a long history of producing clocks from 1841 to 1957.

The clock features no exotic veneers, appliqués, fancy trim pieces, or finials—just a plain, two-column, square-shaped, tinted mahogany lacquer hardwood case measuring 10 inches high, 5 ½ inches deep, and 10 ½ inches wide at the base. The enameled 5-inch dial with spade hands displays Arabic numerals. At the top of the dial, within the number 12, is a regulating arbor for adjusting the clock’s speed.

There is no identifying stamp on the rear plate, and the seller was unaware of the maker. However, once the movement was removed from the case, the markings became visible. The front plate bears the Gilbert trademark—a capital “G” within a diamond—along with “Wm Gilbert Clock Co., Winsted, Conn.” stamped on the right. At the lower center is the number 17, indicating the year (1917) when the movement was designed. The movement features steel plates with brass bushing inserts, which is not surprising given the brass shortages during the First World War (1914–1918), prompting manufacturers to use steel for clock plates.

The case has an austere 1920s look. The movement date of 1917 suggests Gilbert might have used the same movement for a number of years following the war. The entire case, especially the molded base is free of gouges, dents, and other calamities associated with the rough handling and careless storage of old clocks. The case was cleaned with Murphy’s soap revealing a beautiful mahogany finish underneath layers of dirt.

If the movement is complete, I can usually get the clock running within a few minutes with a few adjustments here and there. However, despite oiling the movement, checking the gap in the crutch loop, releasing the tension on the mainsprings, and adjusting the beat, the clock would stop after just a few seconds. It wasn’t until I removed the suspension spring that I discovered a kink, which was enough to prevent the clock from running. The suspension spring will be replaced during servicing, but after I smoothed out the kink, the clock began to run. The strike side required no adjustments and works well.

While oiling and basic adjustments like these are no substitute for proper cleaning, they help me identify the issues I’m dealing with. Minor wear will be addressed by installing a few bushings. For now, the clock is running as well as can be expected.

Judging from cobwebs within and around the movement, a couple of dead houseflies plus dirt and grime on the movement itself, I doubt this clock has been running for many years though it likely gave years of reliable service before it stopped.

The previous owner says the clock has been in the family for a long time. It had been his grandmother’s clock passed on to his mother. It was dusted and cared for but, “she got tired of dusting it”, he said and it ended up stored in a barn for the last number of years.

I don’t mind dusting it!

October 25, 2021

New Haven hall clock – Restoring the case

I found the clock on an online for sale site in the spring of 2021 and contacted the seller the same day. When I saw the sellers photos my first thought was that it was pretty reasonably priced for a hall clock, known by many as a grandfather clock. I decided to take a chance, arranged a meeting with the seller and arrived to pick up the clock.

During our brief discussion I learned that the clock is inexpensive for a good reason – it is not quite what I thought it was.

Missing are the door handles, otherwise it is complete. It has a mechanical movement with a pendulum but what I was not expecting was a spring-driven movement. Almost all hall clocks are weight-driven.

Is it a conversion? Was the old movement worn out and a new movement installed in its place. I don’t think so. There was never a seat board in the case as seat boards are almost always present on a clock driven by weights. So it seems that from day one this was never intended to be a weight-driven clock.

The case was likely made by someone other than The New Haven Clock Company and the dial, hands, pendulum rod and bob, weight chains, weights, acorn chain pull knobs and the wood dial face were purchased together as a package from New Haven and installed in the case.

*Fakes weight chains below the movement*

Okay, that’s different!

Cleaning or stripping?

The decision to clean or strip is made easy by a good cleaning. After a good cleaning it is better to assess whether or not it requires stripping. What was revealed was a very nice red oak case.

In the photo above the base, which was the last section to be cleaned, is almost black.

What is truly remarkable is the weight of the case and no wonder, the base sides are two inches thick. The top and base can be removed but the middle section alone cannot be lilted by one person, it is that heavy!

I left the cleaning aside to work on the hands and brass (fake) weights.

The brass hands might looks flimsy but they are surprisingly heavy. Brasso was used on all brass pieces except the dial numbers. They appeared to have been lacquered either from the factory or sometime later.

A very light coat of red oak stain accentuated the grain. I considered shellac for the final finish but opted for Wipe-on Poly, an amber tinted polyurethane.

Yes, there are flaws, nicks and scratches that are consistent with age but given that it is over 100 years old some of the flaws add character. The fake weights went back into the clock to complete the look of a weight-driven clock.

I like it!

October 21, 2021

Tick Talk Tuesday #36 – a tall case clock is transformed

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile or my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
Author

In the spring (2021) I found a tall case clock on an online for sale site at what seemed to be a bargain price. It is not what it appears to be. Although you can clearly see weights on the inside of the clock case it is not a weight-driven clock but a spring driven clock with fake weights.

I bought it anyway.

The New Haven movement was serviced and the case was cleaned almost down to the bare wood. It looks terrific and keeps good time. I don’t normally send photos back to the seller on a clock that I have rejuvenated but I thought, what the heck, the seller might be pleased that it went to a good home.

My email to TC:

“No need to reply but I just thought I’d send along a photo of the clock you sold me. The clock runs perfectly, everything has been polished, the movement taken apart and serviced and the case refinished.”

TCs reply;

“Wow…. Looks really good. Hard to believe it’s the same clock. Glad you got the clock all fixed up.”

Sometimes the time and effort is worth it.

October 12, 2021

The Pressed Wood Kitchen Clock

Ah, the kitchen clock!

Most clock enthusiasts have at least one kitchen clock in their collection and some collect them exclusively. I am not a huge fan of them but they very popular and considered important clocks because of their relatively low cost and availability.

Thousands of inexpensive oak-cased clocks were made by various American and Canadian manufacturers in the late 19th Century to the early part of the 20^th Century. They are cheap, plentiful, reliable and easy to regulate.

They were typically sold in box lots of a half a dozen or so to merchants and offered for sale to customers for a unit price of around $4.50.

Although commonly called the kitchen clock it is sometimes called the pressed wood clock.

The designs were created by using high pressure rotary presses on oak wood that had been pre-steamed to soften it. The front of the clocks frequently displayed glass tablets with bronze or silver gilt designs.

This Arthur Pequegnat Canuck clock (above) is a typical pressing with floral designs on the top crown, base, and side columns, two upper rosettes and a framed access door with a floral style glass tablet.

Pressing designs into wood was much less expensive and quicker than machine carving, though the designs tended to be taken to excess at times like we see on this Sessions Grand Assortment with a top heavy ornate crown.

American manufacturers offered kitchen clocks with slight variations in the configuration of the case components and the decoration on the glass panel. It was common to name or number the clocks and present them as part of a series.

All kitchen clocks were 8-day running and featured either a one piece or two-piece 6-inch painted dial with Roman or Arabic numerals, railroad track minute chapter ring, and blued moon shaped or spade hands. A pendulum regulated the timing. The clocks included a half-hour strike on a bell or a coiled gong and some were offered with both bell on the half-hour strike and coiled gong on the hour. Additional features such as an alarm added pennies to the cost.

With inexpensive changes in the design for the press and minor changes to the case elements, clocks of different designs could be produced. Design elements for the pendulum varied between a plain round bob to a decorative pendulum bob in many pressed wood kitchen clocks.

Steam pressed designs were not confined to kitchen clocks and quickly found their way to wall clocks like the Gilbert Admiral.

I have about 100 clocks in my collection and only two are steam-pressed. It is not a style that I am actively seeking but, admittedly, some are attractive. They are easy enough to find, fairly cheap and are relatively uncomplicated to service.

October 5, 2021

New Haven movement servicing

This movement came out of an unknown tall case clock that I am certain did not come out of New Haven’s factory. The case appears to have been made by an unknown case builder and I believe the movement, coil gong, dial face, and pendulum were all sourced from the New Haven Clock Company as a package, a kit, if you will.

The movement is a spring-driven count wheel time and strike commonly found in clocks for export. The chains are there for show. From the outside the clock may look like a weight-driven grandfather clock but it is clearly a fake!

Disassembly and assessment of work to be done

The movement is held together with five pins. The number 27 is stamped on the movement. Other makers stamped their movement with dates of manufacture but I don’t think that’s the case here. It appears to be the length of the pendulum in inches. A 27 inch pendulum corresponds to 4350 beats per hour or 72.5 beats per minute (BPM). Ordinarily, weight driven tall case clocks are 60 beats per minute, so this movement looks good running in the case and will fool the average person.

It has 9 extra holes on the front plate, obviously designed for a number of configurations. For example, there is an unused pivot hole to the right of the fan which would have accommodated a fan with a different sized 4th wheel, presumably for another style of clock case.

With the top plate removed the gears and levers are exposed. I found three anomalies.

One, there is an additional piece soldered onto the escape wheel bridge. Since there are no new bushings anywhere on the movement I can only assume that the bridge piece is the fix for a worn pivot hole.
The fly. I should have taken a photo. Two pieces of brass were jammed into the arbour which I assume was meant to tighten it. Flies are meant to be a little loose because they act as an air brake to help arrest the strike strain at the end of its cycle.
The third is the mainsprings. Try as I might I could not remove them from their arbours. I did not want to force them so, left them as-is. I immersed the gear plus mainspring together in the ultrasonic cleaner (not ideal) and used a hot air blow dryer to ensure the parts were dry.

Other than the above issues, there is not a lot of wear on this movement. The pivots are in great shape, with no wear evident on any of the wheel teeth, and the only pivot hole that must be addressed is the escape wheel bridge, the one that was “repaired”.

All parts were cleaned in the ultrasonic, dried and the pivots were polished. The movement was reassembled to check for general wear.

There is some pivot hole wear on the lower parts of the trains which, to me, is acceptable since all the gears mesh nicely. Since I am keeping the clock I am not concerned at this point. I plan on inspecting the movement every 2-3 years to determine if any bushing work might be required. So, I am content with a little wear.

Pivot work

One bushing was installed on the escape wheel bridge. I chose a 1.50 mm ID Bergeon bushing, 2.00 mm high with an OD of 3.5 mm. Since the pivot is 1.54 mm in diameter, the hole had to be reamed out with a cutting broach followed by a smoothing broach. While I drilled from the top (see below) I punched the bushing in from the bottom.

While polishing the pivots I discovered a bent arbour, the second wheel, which is also the strike wheel. Prior to servicing I checked out the movement on a test stand and noticed that the strike train would run for a period and stop. No doubt the bent second wheel arbour was the culprit.

The strike side mainspring is a replacement and a mainspring break likely caused damage to the second wheel. A broken mainspring does not always cause a problem but when they break a considerable amount of energy is released. As a general rule, if you are working on a movement with newer mainsprings check for damage up the train.

It is odd that the bent arbour was not caught when the mainspring was replaced. It is not hard to see the bend when spun on a lathe. It is always a risk straightening an arbour but since it is soft steel the chances of a positive result are very good. A staking tool was used to straighten it.

Using a staking tool to straighten and arbour

Assembly and testing

The movement was reassembled. I positioned the third wheel locking pin in the 12 o’clock position on the strike side to ensure the strike side would go into warning. I then synchronized the count and drop levers and managed to get it right the first time.

Since this is a large movement with a long pendulum, a grandfather clock stand is ideal for testing.

The movement has been running a week as of this writing and striking as it should. I will continue to run it for at least two more 8-day cycles before returning it to its case.

Next is refreshing the case. It is very dirty with over 100 years of grime. I am curious to see what lies underneath multiple coatings of dirt.

October 1, 2021

Tag: American

The count wheel is on backward – oops

Sawin banjo clock – wood dial bezel fix

Several clocks bought at auction this spring

Tick Talk Tuesday #38 – Swigart replacement dial

Sawin banjo clock – almost done, 3 more items to address

A Sessions clock is on the bench 5 years later – what needs to be done?

Dating an antique or vintage clock – Part I

If it says Regulator on your clock it is likely NOT a Regulator?

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The Moncton – double spring time only – Part II – servicing the movement

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Chauncey Jerome 30-hour movement – two unusual issues during servicing

Sawin banjo clock movement servicing – two issues arose later

Antique or Vintage Clocks: The Perfect Unique Gift Ideas

Circa 1845 Chauncey Jerome Ogee Clock

My Approach to Clock Restoration

Gilbert mantel clock movement servicing

John Sawin banjo clock CA 1840

Gilbert shelf clock

New Haven hall clock – Restoring the case

Tick Talk Tuesday #36 – a tall case clock is transformed

The Pressed Wood Kitchen Clock

New Haven movement servicing

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