In 2014 during a visit to Portugal I had a chance to visit one of the country`s premier museums in Lisbon.
They had a magnificent collection of antique clocks but this particular clock attracted my attention. This weight driven “Regulador” was made by Burgh, Bernard (II) van Risenburgh in Paris between 1745-50. It is made of oak with exotic woods and bronze. The style is Rococo or late baroque, very ornate with elaborate though balanced and a less angular asymmetrical design.
French Rococo style floor or tall-case clockIntricate detail of the clock face
In a precious article I wrote about my frustrations getting this clock to run reliably. No matter what adjustments I made it ran poorly.
“You’ve got to be very careful if you don’t know where you are going, because you might not get there”, Yogi Berra
This time and strike movement (Hermle?) has been out of its case and lying in drawer for the past year or so. When I met the seller in a parking lot some time ago as I handed him $20 for this Dugena mantel clock he climbed into his car he said, “I hope you don’t expect much for $20; it’s not perfect”. Well, it’s not perfect.
It was keeping poor time, losing an hour or so a day but I thought, what a great clock to practice on and practice I did.
Oiling the movement had no effect. Issues? A weak spiral spring, a worn jewel on the floating balance, a power issue associated with a weak mainspring or perhaps pivot wear. I disassembled the movement several times and serviced the mainsprings. I had an issue re-hooking the strike side mainspring and so, discouraged, I put it aside.
Dugena time and strike German made mantel clock
Dugena – is it a clock company?
Dugena was a German retail clock name only, a marketing name, not a maker of movements or cases. Dugena was a registered cooperative society, a “Genossenschaft”, that bought clocks from other makers to sell them under their own brand. A brand name for a retail chain more or less.
Dugena floating balanceThe clock runs slow, this bent spiral spring does not help
Floating balance clocks are much more accurate and above all, they do not have have the disadvantage of the pendulum; these clocks work even when the case is at an oblique angle
A great invention – the floating balance
The floating balance movement in this clock could have been made by anyone; Urgos, Jauch or Hermle perhaps. Hermle is likely since it was one of the leading companies using the floating balance escapement. The floating balance was invented in the 1930s but it took till 1941 for the patent application to be registered. It took another 10 years after that for the patent to be granted slowed by the war years and the challenges of industry recovery following the Second World War.
The floating balance was a great invention. Floating balance clocks are generally more accurate and above all, they do not have have the main disadvantage of the pendulum; they will work even when the clock case is at an oblique angle.
Time and strike movement, maker unknown
Back to the the clock
Months passed. I took the movement out, looked at the strike side barrel a second time, popped the barrel cap off and using pliers gave the inner part of the mainspring a turn and it hooked onto the catch. Success at last. The mainspring barrels can be removed without dis-assembly of the movement, so, in it went. Despite my minor triumph with the strike-side mainspring, straightening the spiral spring and adjusting the balance wheel to its fastest set point, the clock ran only marginally better. The only consolation is that although it runs 5 minutes slower per day it runs a full eight day cycle.
Despite the minor disappointment it has been a productive learning experience but I am inclined to put it aside as I have other projects on the go. Every time I think about the issues I am having with this clock it always comes back to the balance wheel.
In this age of everything electronic, it may surprise some people that a newly acquired mechanical clock bought at the local garage sale, flea market or antique store needs to be wound on a regular basis. Winding a mechanical clock takes a level of care but a few simple guidelines should have you on your way.
Here’s how to wind an antique or vintage mechanical clock correctly. By following these tips and guidance, you’ll gain the skill and confidence needed to wind your clock properly and maintain its functionality.
Let’s begin by discussing some basic terms.
Winding Arbours or Winding Points and Their Function
On your clock’s dial (excluding cable-driven tall case clocks or any clock that has pull-up weights), you will notice one, two, or three holes, known as “winding arbours” or winding points.
A typical German mantel clock
For example, a clock with one winding hole is a time-only clock. Two winding holes typically indicate a time-and-strike clock. These clocks strike the hour on the hour and may also strike on the half-hour, either on a bell or gong.
Each arbour serves a specific purpose, and the number of winding arbours indicates the number of gear trains (or sets of gears) in the clock.
Clocks with three winding arbours chime on the quarter-hour, producing a musical tone. On such clocks, the center arbour winds the time train, the left arbour winds the strike train, and the right arbour winds the chime train.
On some clocks, there is a smaller hole on the clock face near or above the 12 o’clock position. It is also an arbour, but a smaller one used for regulating the speed of your clock. If you have a double-ended key, the small end fits that arbour. Some clocks will have the regulating arbour located under the centre cannon where the hands are attached.
The Difference Between the Terms Strike and Chime
A strike or a chime is simply the clock sounding the time. An antique or vintage “time and strike” clock indicates the hour by striking once for each hour or using a two-tone strike, such as a Normandy or “Bim-Bam” strike.
On the other hand, a chime is a musical tone, and a typical musical tone found on most clocks with three winding points is the Westminster chime. Some clocks provide more choices, such as the Schatz W3 bracket clock, which has 3 musical tones: St Michael’s, Whittington, and Westminster.
On older clocks, there may or may not be an additional strike on the half-hour. Older antique clocks from the mid-1800s, for example, typically do not strike on the half-hour to preserve the wind on the strike side.
Typically, striking clocks have two winding points, while chiming clocks have three.
Where Winding Points Are Located
On this spring-driven, Seth Thomas mantel clock (photo below), the left arbour, indicated by an arrow, winds the strike side, and the right arbour, the right arrow winds the time side. The smaller hole just below the centre cannon is for regulating the clock using a double-ended key.
Winding arbours on an antique Seth Thomas mantel clock
On the Ingraham clock (photo below), there is only one set (or train of gears) that indicates it is a time-only clock, hence the single arbour or winding point. The barely visible, smaller hole in the loop end of the “2” on the number 12 is for regulating the clock.
Winding arbour on an Ingraham Nordic banjo clock
If the striking sound is bothersome or disruptive to guests, you can simply wind the time side only—the clock will continue to run normally without engaging the strike mechanism.
However, to ensure even wear and proper maintenance, it is advisable to wind both sides of a striking clock.
The Running Time or Cycle of a Clock
Most clocks are designed to run for eight days. Some older clocks run 30 hours, and others run as long as 30 days on a wind. Still others, such as anniversary clocks, will run 400 days on a wind.
Double-ended Key
For eight-day clocks, winding once a week ensures the clock continues running smoothly. Establishing a routine, such as winding your clock(s) on the same day each week (a Saturday, for example), is a helpful habit. It’s also a good idea to make occasional adjustments to your clock, such as fine-tuning its speed to account for seasonal changes. You can find more details in an article I wrote about regulating your clock.
Clock Keys
It is common for a newly acquired clock to come without a key, but this is nothing to worry about. If it does have one, it is usually a replacement. Finding a clock with its original key is quite rare. The key that accompanies the clock is likely to fit, but if your clock has a speed adjustment arbour (marked F-S) on the dial, typically located near the top, it should have a double-ended key.
If your clock has a one-ended winding key and a speed adjustment arbour is present, the key is not original to the clock. Double-ended keys are necessary because the speed adjustment arbour is considerably smaller than the winding arbour.
Key Size and Type
All mechanical clocks require a winding key, like the one shown below. For those clocks that have winding cables, a winding crank is required. Winding cranks will be covered later in this article. The exceptions are alarm clocks and some carriage clocks, which have built-in winding keys. Keys come in various sizes, so it’s important to have the correct size for your clock’s arbour. The key should fit snugly without being too loose.
If your clock came without a key it can be purchased at any clock supply house, such as Perrinin Vancouver, Canada. Timesavers and Merritts are clock suppliers in the USA, where keys can be purchased.
Ingraham Huron winding key. Home-made but functional and over 120 years old
Over-winding a clock is a common myth. A clock which “appears” to be over-wound seizes because of a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil
Winding Your Mechanical Clock
If the dial is covered by a glass door, open it to access the clock face. Insert the key into one of the winding arbors, and use your non-dominant hand to steady the case while winding. To protect the finish, it’s a good idea to wear a cotton glove on your non-dominant hand.
Next, turn the key clockwise. If it doesn’t turn clockwise, try turning it counterclockwise. Some clocks wind differently, so this is normal. Avoid forcing the key; apply minimal pressure and continue winding until you feel resistance. Once you encounter resistance, stop winding and do not force the key further.
Below is a clear example of a previous owner using excessive force to wind the movement in the wrong direction. The right spring barrel has become unhooked from the main wheel, which only happens when significant force is applied while winding in the opposite direction.
If you lose the key, simply purchase a replacement. Never use pliers or any other hand tools to wind a clock, as the arbours can be easily stripped.
Chinese clock movement
The “clicking” sound heard while winding the arbour is the click engaging the ratchet on the mainspring. The ratchet’s purpose is to secure the mainspring in place with each turn of the key.
An 8-day clock usually requires about 14 half turns of the key as the arbour does one complete turn per day.
Mainspring ratchet and click.
Allow the key to gently return to its click. On the rare occasion that the click slips or breaks, resist the urge to release it quickly. Instead, let the key slowly unwind in your hand to prevent potential damage to the teeth, gears, and even your hand. Letting the key go free suddenly can cause collateral damage to other parts of the movement.
The myth of overwinding a clock is common, but a clock that “seems” overwound actually seizes due to a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil, which causes the coil to lock or stick. Regular servicing of a mechanical clock is an essential part of ownership and helps prevent future mainspring issues.
Clocks with Weights
Not all clocks use springs — for example, grandfather clocks and one-day ogee clocks are weight-driven. On these clocks, the weights must be raised to the top to begin the weekly time cycle. This can be done either by inserting a crank key into the winding arbor on the clock face or by manually pulling the chains to lift the weights.
For clocks with winding chains, gently pull down on the shorter side of the chain until the weight reaches the underside of the wooden seatboard, stopping at the weight stop bar. Repeat this process for the remaining two chains if it’s a chiming clock. Allow the chains to do the work — do not assist by lifting the weights at the same time. Pushing up on the weights could cause the chain to slip over the winding gear teeth or become unhooked. To protect the brass finish on the weight shells, wear cotton gloves while steadying the weights as they are pulled up.
For tall case clocks with cable drives, use a crank key to wind them by inserting the key into each winding hole on the clock face. Turn the key slowly until the weights are raised to the top.
All three weights on a chiming grandfather clock descend more or less together through the week.
On older tall case clocks with weights hidden behind an access door, open the door to observe the weights as they rise when you wind the clock. As the weights near the top, slow down and stop when you feel resistance.
Thirty-hour time and strike or one-day clocks are typically wound with a winding crank inserted in the dial face winding points once per day. Wind the weights to the top of the case at approximately the same time each day.
Final thoughts
In conclusion, take pride in your mechanical clock and the craftsmanship it represents. Wind it regularly, care for it properly, and have it serviced when necessary. Even if you prefer not to keep it running, cherish it as a remarkable piece of horological heritage.
For visual learners who prefer to see the process in action, I’ve created a helpful video demonstration showing exactly how to wind a clock. You can watch it here:
Tick-Talk Tuesday is all about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). If I am stumped, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
I wrote a blog article offering advice for online purchases which you can see here.
Summarizing my advice for online shoppers;
Check the dates on the listings. The longer they are listed the more the seller is inclined to sell for a better price.
Meeting the same day is crucial; you do not want the seller to get cold feet and you do not want someone coming before you to buy the clock.
Cash is the rule. No cheques!
If you cannot negotiate a final price by email suggest talking it over on the phone
Be courteous and polite at all stages of the deal
Unmarked French clock, Kijiji purchase
JC writes, “Very good advice overall. I have only one small issue: I think asking about dates (how old is it?) is kind of pointless. I’ve seen clock-makers who have been in business for decades (30+ years) who can’t even correctly date a clock to within 100 years. I’m thinking of a specific example of a well known clock-maker who was explaining a repair on a comtoise clock “from the early 1700s”. The clock was actually from around 1840. I find that this sort of mis-dating happens often, and even with so called experts. Another example I can give you is a Black Forest clock specialist who had a particular clock he was demonstrating in a video, also apparently also “early 1700s” with wooden wheels, but it had an original coiled gong strike inside. The earliest evidence of coiled spiral gongs only date back to as early as maybe 1820-1830. Before this they simply just didn’t exist yet. This was from an EXPERT collector. Someone who specializes in Black Forest clocks. Some of his clocks are worth 5 figures.
That said, I would not trust the word of any eBay, Craigslist, Kijiji, or even auction house seller.
As far as your little clock goes, I think it was an absolute STEAL! True, the strike side could potentially have major problems, but even as a timepiece, the marble is gorgeous. With the price of shipping these days, it was an especially nice find. I haven’t been too lucky finding clocks locally. I think I’ve only bought a small handful, and they tend to be anniversary clocks, and mass produced American clocks (gingerbreads and mantle clocks) with a few German Art Deco style clocks.
I’ve bought a *LOT* of my clocks online (eBay) and for 95% of them, I just went with photos. If the photos were not good enough, I’d pass. It has largely worked out for me, but I ALWAYS assume they will not work. There is only ONE clock that arrived in pristine working condition.
Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site
Ansonia drop octagon, Kijiji purchase
My response to JC . “A good point JC and one that I will consider. The answer I usually get when I ask about the age of the clock is how long the seller has had it. If they say they’ve had it for years or it was their mothers, uncles etc. I am naturally much more interested than someone who is just selling the clock for quick cash. I have acquired some great clocks that have been passed down through family (see photos on this blog). They are not without issues but sometimes the story is just as exciting as the clock itself.
I get most of my clocks from online local for-sale sites that I can pick up within an hour or two from where I live. I scour the sites everyday and will sometimes send out emails to sellers without seriously considering a purchase but occasionally their reply piques my interest. I have had one very bad experience with an EBay clock purchase so I try to stay away from them (not saying I wouldn’t in the future).
The clock is a “Canadian made” New Haven Octagonal short drop wall clock. It was assembled at The New Haven Clock Co. of Canada plant established at Brantford, Ontario (Canada) in 1906.
New Haven schoolhouse clock
The New Haven Clock Company of Canada was a subsidiary of the New Haven Clock Company of America. Both mantel and wall clocks were made in the Brantford plant with Canadian wood cases, but the spring-driven pendulum movements were brought in from the U.S. The Canadian arm of the New Haven Clock Company closed in 1956. More information about The New Haven Clock Company can be found here. This clock was probably made in the 1940s.
The clock was removed from a schoolhouse in Saskatchewan, Alberta (Canada) in the 1960s. The previous owner said that he ran the clock for a couple of years, got tired of it and put it in storage. I hung it up on my kitchen wall for a couple of months and while it ran immediately and kept good time I considered putting off servicing with other projects on the go. However, if I ran it long enough without proper attention any wear would be exacerbated. Now is the time to service this clock.
Day One
The movement was mounted with what looked like the 4 original screws. I wondered if this movement had ever been serviced. Clues began to reveal themselves as I took the movement out for a closer inspection.
New Haven movement #304
The centre cannon arbour was very loose which is not uncommon. A bushing might be required. The pivots were in good shape and had minimal wear but most bushing holes on both the time and the strike side, front and back plates were so enlarged that there was considerable lateral movement of the wheels in both trains but not enough to stop the clock. Not the worst I have seen but clearly a clock that is in dire need of servicing. The clock ran for many years and appeared to have received not much more than basic servicing during that time.
Day Two
The movement was very dirty. The cleaning solution in the ultrasonic cleaner was dark brown in colour and large pieces of crud floated on top, a build up of dried oil and dust over the years.
An obvious example of a previous repair was the drop lever that had been soldered in two places as you can see in the photo below.
Top view of movement indicating solder points
The lever looks strong and should hold for years to come.
Strike side maintenance / drop lever
I took special care to resist bending any parts of the lever to adjust it for fear of breaking it. The helper wire/spring on the drop lever also seemed to have been replaced at some point because it looked crudely made, not something you would see in a factory installed movement. A piece of the helper wire broke off during dis-assembly which meant that I had to make a new wire/spring.
I polished the pivots and then proceeded with the bushing work prior to cleaning the movement.
Bergeon Bushing Machine
15 bushings were installed, 7 on the front plate and 8 on the rear plate. The centre cannon arbour required one bushing, a much larger one, on the rear plate.
To completely eliminate any issues with the time side I took all the strike train wheels out
Movement on test stand without strike side wheels
Without strike side wheels
Day Three to day Five
All went well while test fitting the wheels on both trains; they moved as smoothly as they should. I re-assembled the movement and attempted to align the levers on the strike side as best as I could with little success. I ran the movement on the test stand even though the drop lever was not positioned correctly. Unfortunately, the clock stopped every few hours. My suspicion was an incorrectly aligned lever somehow stopping the strike side.
To completely eliminate any issues with the time side I took all the strike train wheels out and ran the time side for 3 trouble-free days eliminating any issues with the motion works.
I consulted Steven Conover’s excellent book on strike clock movements (Striking Clock Repair Guide) to work through a solution. He devotes one chapter to the New Haven movement and clear instructions for setting up the strike side.
Day 6
After studying Steven’s manual, I reinstalled the strike side and proceeded with the necessary adjustments as follows.
The positioning of the levers are critical.
The 3 levers of the New Haven movement
There are 3 levers in this clock. Knowing how the levers function is key to getting this clock to run. The hammer strike lever (Lever number 1) performs a very simple task and installs on the bottom of the clock and is activated by the hammer lifting pins on the cam wheel. The drop and paddle lever (Lever number 2) does several jobs in unison. It pushes the unlocking lever or the lift lever (Lever number 3) down to release the warning pin to prepare the strike. The top arm of the lever number 2 rotates through the 2 – 180 degree slots of the cam while the bottom arm forms the paddle that enters the deep slots of the count wheel to indicate the strike on both the hour and half hour. The upper arm of this lever must be on the upper rear part of the slot on the cam to work correctly. I found this through trial and error. Needless to say, the positioning of the levers are critical. Once the levers were positioned correctly, the clock ran beautifully.
Post assembly testing
The clock went through it’s full 8-day cycle without any issues striking as it should. The movement was mounted back into it’s case, is being regulated and is now on display in our living room.
This very ordinary clock reflects its utilitarian role as a schoolhouse clock; it is not the best looking or the best sounding clock in the world but like a faithful servant it should run without issues for years to come.
I wrote about this clock in 2015. The Canadian Time clock was made by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock company of Kitchener, Ontario. The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company (1904–1941) is notable as the longest lasting Canadian-based clock manufacturer. Pequegnat clocks are sought after by Canadian collectors and often command high prices on online for-sale sites.
Former railway clock from a station in Pictou County, Nova Scotia (Canada)
Label on back board
The clock was made after 1917 in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada). Clocks made before 1917 had the word “Berlin” on the dial face. Kitchener was known as Berlin prior to and during the first World War. It was the town of Berlinfrom 1854 until 1912 and the City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916. Because the name Berlin was associated with the war against Germany the decision was made to change the name to Kitchener midway through the First World War. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario. Though it is impossible to determine the exact year this clock was made my guess is just prior to 1941 before the company closed it’s doors.
It is always disconcerting to open a clock up to discover punch marks on a movement
The clock was purchased in Sept 2013 and after 3 1/2 years it is overdue for servicing.
Movement showing punch marks (arrows)
It is always disconcerting to open a clock up to discover punch marks on a movement, specifically around the pivot holes as one would expect. I am one of those who believe that a punch should never be used on a clock movement. Most, including myself, would consider it a quick and easy shortcut that is not designed to extent the life of the clock in any appreciable manner. Because punching weakens the side wall of the pivot hole those two pivot holes in particular are prime examples of the need for bushings. In total the clock required 5 bushings. The second wheel pivot hole was worn the most. One back plate bushing was required for the escape wheel arbour.
Time only movement
Time only movement are relatively simple to work on and for the novice this is the first kind of movement you should tackle. Whenever working on a clock be sure to take as many photos as you can; you will need them if you get stuck re-assembling the movement. On this clock the 3rd and 4th wheels look exactly the same but in fact differ slightly in height. Photos taken at the right angles will easily confirm the difference.
Mainspring cleaned and inspected
A strange anomaly that I did not notice when I first bought the clock; additional screw holes
The mainspring is in excellent condition and might have been a replacement at some point in the clock’s life. I had some difficulty re-hooking the arbour to the spring and had to use pliers to bend it, but just a little.
I found one strange anomaly that I did not notice when I first bought the clock. There are additional screw holes in the back board leading me to believe that the clock might have had another type of Pequegnat movement which would mean that the current movement is a replacement. Possible reasons, a catastrophic failure of the original movement, a conversion from a time and strike movement to a time-only clock (requiring a new dial) – it is anyone’s guess. A mystery nonetheless.
Servicing this clock took less than a day. Testing takes a couple of weeks. With new bushings in place and an oiling this clock should run reliably for years to come.
I began keeping a detailed log of clock repairs noting, in particular, when the movement was last oiled so that I do not wait too long between inspection and oiling.
Seth Thomas Adamantine time and strike mantel clock
I am servicing the first antique clock I ever bought. After having serviced many others it is time to give this clock a little love.
Some years ago (2000) my wife and I were traveling around Nova Scotia and stopped in a little village called Blockhouse. We found an antique store, walked in and never intended to buy an antique clock that day but left with an American Seth Thomas Adamantine mantel clock. It looked like it was worth many more times than we paid for it. We left the store thinking we had stolen it.
My research revealed that thousands were made and the price we paid at the time likely reflected its true value. The clock came home and sat on top of our piano and looked great. For a couple of years I wound it up religiously and marveled at its beautiful marbleized case and the sound of the gong on the hour and the bell on the half hour. I stopped winding it, let it sit on the piano and ignored it. About 5 years ago as I began to build my collection of vintage and antique clocks I wound it up and have kept it running ever since.
These clocks have become known to collectors as “Black Mantel Clocks”, and were popular from 1880 to 1931. Adamantine veneer was developed by the Celluloid Manufacturing Company of New York City, and was covered by U.S. Patent dated September 7, 1880. Seth Thomas Clock Company purchased the right to use the Adamantine veneer in 1881. At that time Seth Thomas stamped the year of manufacture on the bottom of each case. Though somewhat difficult to read the date on this particular clock is 1907.
Re-assembled and tested
Each clock I added to my collection needed some work and so I left the ST thinking that one day I would service it. Despite the fact that I kept it oiled, displayed it in a relatively dry dust free environment, it needed a good cleaning and a little bushing work.
Once you take a movement out of its case you begin to discover it’s little secrets. I immediately noticed a stripped speed regulating gear. The regulator arbour runs through the plates and is connected to the pendulum hanger to slow or speed up the clock. The rate adjustment is on the front of the clock and the smaller end of a double-sided key is used to speed and slow down the clock. I observed a rate adjustment screw on the pendulum bob. The “newer” bob had evidently been added at some point in the clock’s life to replace the stripped gear. The other possibility is that it might have had both. I have seen French clocks with both a front rate adjustment and an adjustable bob.
Regulating gear is stripped
The movement was taken apart and the parts were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Back of movement showing
Bushing wear was not an excessive but enough to justify installing 4 bushings; S2 front, T2 front, and escape wheel, both front and back plates. Putting the movement back together is relatively easy though it is always frustrating positioning the helper springs and levers in place as you move the pivots into their holes. It takes me a few attempts to get the strike side gears and levers correctly aligned. The stop wheel, stop lever, maintenance lever and count wheel hook take a little trial and error and it not something I have managed to get right the first time.
Seth Thomas clock face
Once back together the movement was oiled and placed back into it’s case. It should run reliably for years to come. Save for a slight aging of the clock face the clock is in excellent original condition.
Antique Seth Thomas Adamantine clocks look great on any mantel.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
DL writes. “I am trying to find out what my grandfather clock is worth. It is a Meekins, Packard and Wheat. It also needs a locking piece for the top portion. Somehow the insert is missing, so it can’t be locked on top, but the bottom is fine. I noticed you are far away, and I was wondering if you have any offices in the Massachusetts area or could you recommend someone? Thank you for your time.”
Grandfather clocks are often refereed to as tall clocks long case clocks and floor clocks (Ridgeway Hamilton Country)
My response to DL, “Hi and thanks for writing. As I understand it, Meekins, Packard and Wheat was a prominent department store in Springfield, Mass. During their hay days in the 1930s it had a well established branded furniture line which presumably included grandfather clocks. While it may say Meekins, Packard and Wheat on the clock case or dial, the cabinet and movement were likely made by someone else. It was a typical practice in those days to contract out clocks, furniture and the like to cabinetry and clock movement companies. It is possible that the part you are looking for is no longer made but a competent horologist may be able to fashion one for you. Another option is to contact Tmesavers, a clock supply house that sell parts for clocks. They may have a reasonable facsimile to the part you are looking for. You might try a clock repair service in Harvard MA called the Clock Medic which can be accessed here: http://www.theclockmedic.com/home.html There is contact information on their site. A quick phone call might get you closer to fixing or restoring your grandfather’s clock.
Many people do not realize that there are a number of well stocked clock supply houses not only in the US and Canada but Britain and elsewhere in the world.
I am always intrigued by the language of the clock world. Here are some terms that I have learned in the past year.
Foxing:
Clock face showing brown staining
This is a more common problem than I thought. It is unsightly feature of clock dial faces and might be a cause for concern to some collectors. This phenomenon is caused by mold growth on paper in high (over 50%) humidity. Over time the brown spots coalesce to form large areas of brown. Treatment with chlorine bleach is probably ill-advised, because it will cause metal corrosion. CLR is also not recommended because CLR is an acid. Paper conservators treat this with sodium boro-hydride, or with borax (which needs to be washed out).
Verdigris:
Bright bluish-green encrustation
Verdigris is a bright bluish-green encrustation or patina formed on copper or brass by atmospheric oxidation, consisting of basic copper carbonate. You can see the greenish hue on the back of this century old antique carriage clock. Immersing the movement pieces in diluted Horolene is said to be one effective solution.
End Shake
End Shake is a term used to describe the movement of the pivot within a pivot hole. If the pivot is too tight there will excessive friction and the clock will not run. There must be some perceptible end-play (end shake) and when released the arbor should drop back down to rest against the bottom plate. A too tight pivot hole can be remedied with a smoothing broach available at any clock supplier.
“Normandy Chimes” are reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy, France
Normandy strike
A clock, made by Gilbert, that strikes the hours and halves on two chime rods. Gilbert called this the “Normandy Chime” as it was reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy (Corneville) in France and it was the precursor to the Bim-Bam clock.
Harfen gong
A patented 4-hammer gong by Gustav Becker that has four rods tuned to give a medium-deep “harp” sound when struck, the origin of the gong name “Harfen (Harp) Gong”. The Gong Base has “Oest. Pat” cast into the metal showing the specific patent for this design was Austrian.
Pilasters
Columns or posts that are found on the sides of a tall shelf clock or tall clock running vertically. These are decorative, but also add strength to the cabinet.
Tribology
The study of friction, wear, lubrication, and the design of bearings; the science of interacting surfaces in relative motion. This is the reason why engine oil and many other kinds of oil should not be used on a clcok. Engine oil is designed to be hydrophilic (absorb or dissolve in water) and coat internal parts which is the opposite of what clock oil is designed to do.
Spandrels
The almost triangular space between one side of the outer curve of an arch found on clock faces.
Four spandrels surrounding the chapter ring on this Hermle bracket clock
Rathburn Bushings
Bushing a clock without disassembling is never a good thing. For most purposes Rathburn Bushings are no-no and for those who are really desperate they are at best, a band-aid treatment. I have read about them and seen photos but have never actually seen one in a clock but for about $8 on that old familiar auction site you can buy a package of 10. To install, one places a Rathburn bushing over a worn pivot hole and screw or solder onto the plate. Not my preferred choice for clock repair.
Helper springs
I am clear on the function of helper springs/wires but what I have learned is that the gauge of wire is a function of where the spring is located on the movement. Let’s begin by describing the purpose of helper springs. They might look like they have been added later but they are actually part of the original manufacture and their purpose is to maintain tension on lifting levers, locking levers and hammers. What I did not realize until recently is that the gauge of wire is important for the amount of strength required for a particular lever. Lower gauge (thicker) wire is used for hammer levers because it is stronger and more tension is required to strike the gong/rod and higher (thinner) gauge wire is used for maintenance levers which require less tension. In the photo below you can see a thin helper wire that looks like it was wound by hand (not by me) on the lever arbor.
Helper wire (indicated by arrow) for Sessions movement
Chinoserie: is the European interpretation and imitation of Chinese and East Asian artistic traditions, especially in the decorative arts, garden design, architecture, literature, theater, musical performances and clocks. The pagoda style bonnet in this Scottish made Hugh Gordon long-case clock is a good example of a chinoserie influence.
Hugh Gordon long-case clock in the Chinoserie style
There you have it. These are just a few of the terms I learned in the past year. Clock collecting and repair is such a fascinating hobby; it expands ones vocabulary and is a source of new and interesting words every day.
You bought a clock. It ran when you first saw it but you bring it home, display it in that very spot you imagined and now it won’t run. 99% of the time this is caused by a clock not being in beat. All mechanical clocks must be set in beat before they will run properly.
Sessions time and strike
I make no attempt to explore the idiosyncrasies of various designs of clock movements. Much of the following information can be found at the forum site of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, NAWCC . At this site there are additional tips on adjusting the beat of 400 day clocks, weight driven Vienna style clocks and so on.
When a clock is out of beat, it will either not run at all, or it will run for a short time and then stop
What does the term “beat” mean?
Make sure your clock is on a level surface. Listen to the tick and the tock of your clock. Try to minimize the sounds in the room you are in so that you can listen closely to it’s rhythm. It is in beat when its ticks and tocks are even….tick…tock…tick…tock…, and is out of beat when they are uneven, either, ticktock…. or tocktick…… Put another way, there will be an equal amount of time between the ticks and the tocks. When a clock is out of beat, it will either not run at all, or it will run for a short time and then stop. It is worth repeating that a clock’s beat must be regular to work properly.
Gilbert calendar clock, the Admiral
There are two ways to put a clock in beat. The first is to tilt the clock sideways, one way or the other, and listen for the beat to even out. When the beat is even, prop the clock to stay tilted that way. Now it will run in beat but it will obviously not look good.
The second way is to adjust the crutch to one side or the other, until the beat is even. The crutch is the rod that extends down from the pallets which rock back and forth on the escape wheel. The pendulum rod passes through either a loop (called a crutch loop) or a forked foot at the end of the crutch as indicated in the photo below. Incidentally, that rod needs to be in the middle of the crutch loop and can’t be tight inside the loop nor too loose. The crutch is attached to the pendulum leader which is then attached to a post with a suspension spring.
Mantel clocks have rear access doors that allow you to adjust the crutch, however for wall clocks you will have to remove the hands (the minute hand is released by a screw or a pin, the hour hand simply pulls off) and the dial face, also attached by screws that come off to reveal the movement. However,minor adjustments to the beat of a wall clock can be preformed by simply moving the clock off-level. It may not be noticeable if the clock is not quite level.
There is no need to take the movement out of its case to perform this procedure.
American New Haven time and strike movement taken out of its case
If the crutch is a simple rod or wire as in the photo, it is adjusted by bending it to one side or the other (left or right). The brass rod is quite pliable allowing you to re-adjust if necessary. Listen to the beat as you make the adjustments and when you have a steady tick-tock the clock is in beat.
There us nothing as pleasant or soothing as the sound of a ticking mechanical clock in a room.
If it attaches to the pallets with a friction joint, it is adjusted by holding the pallets still with one hand, and shifting (pushing) the crutch right or left on the friction joint. The adjustment may be very slight in either direction.
Time only German movement for a Blackforest shelf clock
You need only to do this once. Whether your clock is a wall clock, a mantel clock, time and strike, time-only or time, strike and chime, the principles are exactly the same. There is no need to take your clock to a professional to have it “fixed”. This is definitely a do-it-yourself procedure. It’s that simple!
There is nothing as pleasant or soothing as the sound of the rhythmic ticking of a mechanical clock in a room especially if it is in beat.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
This is a Sessions Westminster A mantel clock made in Forestville Conn. The first year of production for this model was 1927. This particular clock was made in October of 1930 and features minor improvements to parts of the chime / strike train. Between 1903 and 1933 Sessions produced this and 51 other models of mechanical clocks, ranging from Advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or regulator clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home. Many of the Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors.
Everything seems to working very well with my clock except for the chimes which seem to have a rather peculiar problem
JD writes. “I stumbled across your WordPress blog about your Sessions Westminster clock and thought I’d reach out as I’m in the process of finally getting mine running. Everything seems to working very well with my clock except for the chimes which seem to have a rather peculiar problem. The hourly chimes work great. Full Westminster, then the correct number of hour strikes. The half hour chimes are also correct. The problem is that the quarter hour & three-quarter chimes are reversed. The quarter hour has 12 notes and the three-quarter hour has only 4. I haven’t even taken the movement out of it’s case yet, and at this point I’m just trying to figure out what the problem might be, and how complicated it may be to resolve it. This is one of about a dozen old clocks that my father had in his collection when he passed away, all of which I had been led to believe were non-functional. I’ve got ten of them running and would like to get an idea what I’m up against with this peculiar problem. Thanks in advance for any insight you may be able to offer.”
Sessions Westminster chime circa 1931
Co-incidentally I have been working on the same clock. Mine also had issues with the strike and chime sequence. I received JDs letter prior to working on my Westminster A mantel clock so I could not advise him on his specific issue but hope to share my experience with him once I have completed work on it.
The Sessions Westminster A mantel clock was made in Forestville Connecticut, USA. The first year of production for this model was 1927. Between 1903 and 1933 Sessions produced 52 models of mechanical clocks, ranging from advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or “Regulator” clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home. Many of the Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors. Having a unique and innovative design, the Westminster A is particularly sought after.
Westminster mainspring
My reply was. ” Thanks for your letter JD. I have yet to tackle this clock and know that it is not a good clock for the novice clock repair person to work on. If you have the skill-sets to have worked on other clocks then you are prepared for this one. I have attached a detailed guide which will help you through the servicing of this clock. It was prepared by Robert Croswell a member of NAWCC. One thing I should mention. The clicks are very weak on this clock and click failures are common. I need not remind you that when clicks fail they may also take parts of a clock with them. If you decide to tear it apart, do yourself a favour and replace the clicks. I have a number of clocks that I have to service before I get to the Westminster A. Let me know how you are progressing with the clock and any insights you can pass along to me.”
Drum and hammers on a unique two train chiming clock
I attached Robert Croswell’s excellent manual called Taming the Sessions 2-Train clock.
JD wrote back, “Thank you very much for the reply, and especially for the very helpful guide. I also asked the question on JustAnswer.com and received a helpful response from a clock repairer who said that the chime correction cam that is behind the locking plate needs to be rotated 180 degrees after it chimes the 12 notes, to the 3/4 hour position. As I said, I haven’t even removed it from the case yet so I just wanted to get an idea how involved the repair might be before I take any action. Now I have an idea where to focus my attention, and I can at least remove it from the case and examine it to fully understand the working of the chiming mechanism. Not sure if I’m up to tearing it apart quite yet, especially since it is running well for the most part. The resource you provided will no doubt prove very helpful to my learning process. I’ll let you know if I manage to resolve the issue and of course, anything I learn along the way. Thanks again.”
I will be sharing my experience with JD once I have the clcok running as it should. I have assembled the clock and in the process of testing the time side. Although the racks and snails (there are 2) are reinstalled I have not yet managed to have the time properly aligned. Once I have determined that the going train will run it’s full cycle I will focus on adjustments to the strike and chime side racks and snails.
The Ansonia octagonal short drop wall clock was (is) commonly known as a schoolhouse clock. This clock was manufactured in 1912. The number “12” , the year stamp, is found on the lower front plate of the movement. The letter “N” is also stamped on the movement.
In this post, Part II, I will proceed with cleaning the movement and performing required bushing work in addition to assembling and final testing.
12 and N on the plate
This is my one and only Ansonia clock. Since it is a fairly conventional time-only movement with an outboard escape wheel, it is fairly simple to work on and for those of you starting out, this is the first movement you should attempt.
Movement in the case prior to disassembly
After applying a C-clamp to the mainspring to contain the spring’s power, I disassembled the movement, placed the parts in the ultrasonic cleaner, then cleaned and polished the pivots prior to the bushing work. The clock required six bushings, three on the front plate and three on the back. The worst was the third wheel, as you can see in this photo. This is not unexpected because of the constant power and stress produced by the mainspring, but it definitely indicates a very worn pivot hole.
Close-up of bushing wear, the circle indicates where the pivot residesThe mainspring was inspected and cleanedUsing a micrometer to check pivot diameterBergeon Bushing Machine, an indispensable tool for bushing work
The only challenge I had was dealing with the brass arm that supports the front plate pivot on the escape wheel (arrow). To install the bushing I had to stabilize the arm on the bushing machine without bending or breaking it, and using very light hammer strikes to seat the bushing.
Arrow indicating tricky bushing install
The bushing went in nicely, as you can see in the next photo. Otherwise, the remaining bushing work went as expected.
Bushing installed on escape wheel arbourTesting in the case
Although I have an excellent clock stand, I decided to test the movement in the case due to the acute mounting angle of the movement. I tossed out the old screw,s which did not appear to be original, and used new slotted brass screws to attach the dial pan and the hinge for the brass bezel. In the process of fumbling with the glazed bezel, I knocked off the brass catch that fits into a slot on the case front. An angled wood block fits into the notch on the catch when the bezel is closed. I got out my torch and, with some sanding, an application of flux, and sufficient solder, the catch operates as it should.
Brass catch repair
Since I serviced the movement, why not go one step further and refresh the brass? I gave all the brass a good cleaning with Brasso, bringing back its original luster. Someone messed with the clock face some time ago, which is unfortunate, but I have decided to leave it as-is. A new paper dial face would not look right.
Ansonia clock project is complete
A simple project that can be done in half a day, enough to extend the life of this handsome antique schoolhouse wall clock that will tick along for years to come.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
Arthur Pequegnat clocks were made between 1908 and 1941 in Berlin (now Kitchener), Ontario. Those produced before 1917 had “Berlin” inscribed on the dial face. The town of Berlinfrom 1854 until 1912 became the City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916. The name Berlin was associated with the war against Germany consequently the decision was made by city officials to change the name to Kitchener midway through the First World War. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario (Canada). Arthur Pequegnat clocks were the only wholly made Canadian clocks (aside from a short run of clocks made by the Canada Clock Company and later the Hamilton Clock Company in the 1870s) and are particularly sought after by Canadian collectors.
AO from Ontario writes, “Good Morning Ron, I live in Ontario (Canada) and have two Pequegnat clocks I am thinking of selling. Could you give me an idea of how much they are worth? The mantel clock is an Oxford. Thank you.
The clocks she mentions in her email are the Arthur Pequegnat Oxford mantel clock (time and strike) and the King Edward time-only wall clock missing the King Edward lower drop decal.
Pequegnat Oxford mantel clock from the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario
King Edward with 15 day Moncton movement showing decal from the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario
I replied. “I looked at your photos and have some comments. The time-only wall clock is known as the King Edward. From the photo yours seems to look intact save for the missing decal in the lower drop. A King Edward decal should be in the middle of the glass panel. It appears to be replacement glass which will certainly affect the value. However you should be able to get in the $600 to $1000 range for your King Edward clock. If you are selling in Canada where collectors are attracted to Pequegnat clocks because they are wholly Canadian made you should do reasonably well. If the clock has been recently serviced you can expect to price it a little higher.
Mantel clocks always command lower prices but your Oxford should easily sell in the $400 range. I would price both slightly higher and see what responses you get.”
AOs reply, ” Hi again Ron, A dealer has offered me $750.00 for both clocks. Is that reasonable knowing that he has to resell them?”
I advised AO that they should dicker a bit and that the dealer certainly knows the value. I suggested that she could also try to sell it on an online for-sale site.
AO replied later and said they posted the clock on a for-sale site and the same dealer offered $650 for the King Edward.
I emailed her again asking how they made out with the sale. AO replied and said the dealer backed out and the clocks are still for sale.
UPDATE: AO wrote 1 week later and said she has sold them both for $350 more that the first offer. She is very pleased.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator Braunau factory circa 1902
It has been one year since my wife presented me with a Vienna Regulator wall clock as a retirement gift. I was in heaven! I always wanted a Gustav Becker clock. I thought it was the holy grail of clocks. As I delve more deeply into this hobby and have the benefit of a greater knowledge of the world of clocks this past year I am learning that there were other more desirable makers of that period (1850s to 1900) but I have my Gustav Becker and I have no regrets.
It has been an interesting time and one of the most significant horological experiences for me in the past year. This clock has taught me a lot.
The hands may look nice but they are incorrect for the period
This was a project clock and my first experience with a non-working clock that bought with it a number of not insurmountable issues. The side and front glass panels may look original but they are replacements after the glass broke during shipping. I brought it to a local glass shop and they installed the glass. I should have bought a old window with the wavy glass to use as a replacement as one reader suggested. I just did not think of it at the time.
The original movement was missing vital strike side parts
The original movement was missing vital strike side parts. Fighting with the seller who misrepresented the condition of the movement got me nowhere. I had to find a replacement movement and it had to be from Gustav Becker’s Braunau factory. Finally, I located a donor movement from Poland. The serial number on the Poland movement told me that it was 16 years newer. Some minor details differentiated the older and newer movement but it was exactly what I was looking for. It was a perfect fit for the case and correct for the pendulum length.
To the casual observer it is a beautiful wall clock befitting the grand period of German clock-making a century ago
What have I learned this past year? I put more than three hundred dollars of repairs into this clock above and beyond the original cost, much more money than the clock is worth. Don’t even get me started on import duties and shipping from the US. I am still riled about that. I am extremely reluctant to make any future clock purchases that require shipping by mail/courier. Others have had positive experiences with shipped clocks – I did not. I find it too much of a gamble. I prefer to buy my clocks in person! Though I won’t go into further detail, this was not a positive buying experience and after a year I am still fighting for compensation from the seller.
Original GB movement with parts missing
How does it look on the wall? A trained eye will see the minor incongruities. To the casual observer it is a beautiful wall clock befitting the grand period of German clock-making a century ago.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
WC writes. “Hello Ron. I enjoy your blog. I came across it by investigating a repair for my Chelsea Vanderbilt ships bell mantel clock, passed along from my Grandfather’s estate. I was hoping you could give me some advice on a repair issue. 2 1/2 years ago I shipped the clock to Chelsea in Massachusetts for factory overhaul. Six or seven weeks later the clock was returned, and has functioned beautifully, after 15 or 20 years of dormancy.
Yesterday I went to wind the clock side on the usual schedule of once a week, and the key spun violently backwards in my hand.There is now no tension in the winding port, I suspect the spring has snapped. The basic overhaul charge was nearly $500, and the warranty was 2 years parts/ maintenance. Since there is no consultation available with Chelsea, I am reluctant to ship the clock back for additional repair, not knowing what on earth they would charge me again, as another $500 would rock the boat on this end. I could investigate names of clock-maker/ clock repair sites in the greater Bay Area, where I live. Is this Chelsea that challenging of a repair?
The clock holds some sentimental value, but surely not enough to lose sleep over. Thank you, your thoughts are greatly appreciated.”
Similar to clock in this article
I wrote to WC and explained to him that I have not worked on one but I do know that this is not a clock that a novice or intermediate repair person would tackle. One of the issues is that only those who are authorized to repair them have access to the parts since Chelsea places limits on parts distribution so that they can perform repairs in-house. I explained that he may be experiencing a failed click. These movements are more prone to click return spring failure than main spring failure. Oftentimes when a click fails it takes other parts with it, i.e. secondary damage. However, the design of this clock makes it easy to take out either spring without disturbing anything else. If the click has let go and nothing else is damaged I advised him that he can fix the mainspring and click on his own or take it to a competent repair person in the area where he lives to effect the repair as long as it does not require additional parts. If the issue is limited to a failed click the repair cost would be far less than a more extensive repair.
The issue is whether or not Chelsea will stand by their warranty. WC has since corresponded with Chelsea and has sent the clock in for repair. They will assess what needs to be done and will consider the fact that it is just off warranty.
Let’s hope there is a happy ending to WCs plight and that Chelsea takes a reasonable approach in dealing with WC.
I acquired my Ansonia drop octagon clock in April of last year (2016) and put off servicing this clock because it was in good running order, kept good time and I had a number of other clocks that needed more attention. Now it’s on the bench.
Last week I wrote that I was in the process of deciding whether or not to purchase this Swiss made Jaeger LeCoultre musical alarm clock. I saw it in an antique store in Langford, BC (Canada) and went away thinking about it. I had several questions in my mind as I walked away.
The seller was asking CDN199; a fair price?
Is it collectible?
I would like to narrow the vintage, the year it was made, thoughts?
I ended up not buying this clock for three reasons
3 days later the same seller decided that he wanted CDN299 and would not negotiate a lower price.
An extensive search on all auction sites plus clock related sites revealed no references to this clock although I have no doubt that it is a Jaeger LeCoultre. That leads me to believe that it is not as desirable as other LeCoultre alarm clocks.
I question the ethics of an antique dealer where half or more of the items on the floor have no price tag.
How do I feel about passing up this clock? The seller did not get my money! It would have nice to have, but more opportunities to find a similar clock will come along and likely from an ethical seller.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
Stromberg Carlson master clock
DP writes to me and asks what the lever does on the anchor (left arrow) and what happens if you move it one way or the other. He also asked about the purpose of the slot as indicated by the right arrow. The right part of the photo refers to a lower part of the clock.
Well, first of all what is DP referring to. This is a Stromberg Carlson master clock manufactured in 1947. Stromberg Carlson was a telecommunications equipment and electronics manufacturing company in the United States, formed in 1894. It was one of five companies that controlled the national supply of telephone equipment until after World War II.
A master clock is a precision clock that provides timing signals to synchronize slave clocks as part of a network of clocks. Networks of electric clocks connected by wires to a precision master pendulum clock began to be used in institutions like factories, offices, and schools around 1900. Many of you might recall the Simplex clock in your classroom which was but one slave clock among dozens in your school all physically connected to one clock, the master clock.
I do not have a particular expertise in Electric horology and asked him if I could consult within my clock circles.
Later on that day I responded. “Regarding your question (s), I gather you know that you have a master clock from which any number of slaves are run. The arrow on the left appears to be a contact activator similar to what one one might find on an IBM master clock, for 2 second contacts to advance slave clocks at a fast rate of impulse every two seconds. The slot on the right looks like it would be for an anchoring screw.”
Stromberg Carlson movement
DPs response. “As you can see in this other clock mechanism that it doesn’t have that lever so yours is a good explanation. There is 6351-M stamped on my clock mechanism. However, the clock itself is not in its original configuration. I was told that originally it was used as a master clock in a school to control all the other clocks. I was told that an electrical engineer reworked it so that it would run off of house current. Too bad that he didn’t leave it the way it was originally. You can tell from the holes in the back wooden panel and now an occupied ceramic insulator that the was much more to it.”
As DP states, his clock was converted. In fact many were converted from 20VDC to 110 volts AC. Presumably a safer way to run the clock but unfortunate because it takes away some authenticity.
In answering DPs question I have now expanded my knowledge of electro-mechanical clocks.
Saint Patrick’s Day – it is only fitting to feature a Smiths Enfield mantel clock that came all the way from Ireland
Starting Tuesday, March 21st I will feature a regular blog called Tick-Talk Tuesday.
The purpose of the blog is twofold, the first, to talk about letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face as well as my responses to your questions and my advice on your clock issues and concerns. The second purpose is a place for you, the reader, to profile your favorite clock or a clock that has presented a particular challenge for you.
The focus will be on you, the reader
So, the focus will be on you, the reader and contributor. Most of the comments and questions are ones that I have received privately but to preserve anonymity I will not mention names. To profile your clock, simply send me photos and a description (my contact email is ronjoiner@gmail.com) and I would be more than happy to present your prized clock to the many readers of this blog. Although privacy is important, let me know if you do not mind having your name published.
I am looking forward to this feature and between us it should be very informative.
Jaeger LeCoultre clocks are a favorite among collectors
Jaeger LeCoultre alarm clock
Jaeger LeCoultre clocks are a favorite among collectors of high-end luxury timepieces, often bringing in hundreds of thousands of dollars at auction. Jaeger LeCoultre to this day produces high quality desk clocks and watches in addition to their famous line of Atmos clocks.
I was in an antique shop in Victoria, BC recently and I must confess that I have never seen so many antique and vintage clocks in one place outside a museum. (I’ll cover those in a future blog article)
There were so many French and American mantel and wall clocks that I went by this diminutive clock twice before stopping to take a more careful look. On the clock face it says LeCoultre and underneath the base there is a label that says Faust Waltz, the musical tone of this alarm clock.
It is small but substantial in weight. It is an authentic 8-day gilt or lacquered bronze Swiss made clock from about the 1960s to 1970s though it may be earlier. There are no obvious dents or scratches on the case and no marks on the glazing although I did not have enough time to examine it more closely. I have no idea whether or not it is in complete working order but the fact that music box functions is encouraging.
Rear of clock showing winding key for the music box on the lower left
Unfortunately I was taking shots with low light and using a flash would have attracted too much attention from the owner. The quality is not up to my usual standards.
I am in the process of deciding whether or not to make the decision to buy this clock. In the meantime I have several questions:
The seller is asking CDN199; a fair price?
Is it collectible?
I would like to narrow the vintage, the year it was made, thoughts?
There are plenty of different styles of LeCoultre alarm clocks on the net but I could only find one photo of this particular clock. Either it is rare and desirable or uncommon and not worth considering. I hope it is the former.
It is a French mantel or shelf clock. I have no idea of the maker but it is an antique (over 100 years old), possibly 1890 to 1900. It has “Marque Deposse” stamped on the back plate but that simply means “trademark” in French. It is not a maker’s name. The clock is 11 inches high by 8 inches wide by 5 inches deep.
Rear access door
It is a time and strike movement on a coil gong. Unfortunately, the strike side does not work though the seller disclosed that to me before I bought the clock. I can feel the tension of the spring when I turn the key in the arbor but the spring does not engage the click, so, a broken or disconnected click I presume. The previous owner described it as having a melodious sounding gong. I would love to hear it. I wondered if the spring barrels could be taken out without separating the plates but further research has revealed that the movement must be dis-assembled.
Clock face
The clock dial face is in two sections. The brass inner pan is surrounded by a porcelain dial with painted numbers. The dial door is flat glazing in a brass bezel with a high quality “hidden” hinge. A taper pin holds the delicately crafted hands. There is a smaller arbor, a speed regulator above the 12, which allows more precise tuning in concert with a speed adjustment on the pendulum.
Pendulum back showing stamped numbers
Aside from numbers on the back plate, an identical batch number on the pendulum and the Marque Deposee stamping, there is no makers mark. There may be a mark on the gong block but I won’t know until I release the nut on the base panel to take it out from underneath the clock. The numbers on the back plate are 3851-55. The number 5 5 is the pendulum length as in 5 and 5/12 French inches.
Front side of pendulum
Time and Strike movement
The movement appears to be of superior quality though common in a number of higher end French clocks. From what I can determine, the movement can be taken out of the case by undoing the two screws that go through the back bezel into the brass straps that protrude through the case from the front bezel. The movement should come out through the front once the two screws are released. The movement looks clean and there is sufficient oil in the pivots (no black or green gunk). I have other projects on the go so it might take me some time to take the movement out for inspection but for the time being I will let it run to regulate it.
The Corinthian style case is very heavy and is quite possibly Dinant Belgian Black Marble. Aside from the non-functioning strike side there are other issues. One is a very noticeable chip on the bottom right corner of the base which you can see in the photo below and the other is a small chip in the top left corner which is less visible. Close-up that larger chunk out of the corner looks ugly; from a distance it is hardly visible.
The worst of two chips, bottom right corner
Despite the slight damage the overall look is impressive. Most of what I see is well preserved. Indeed, it is a very attractive and stately antique French mantel clock that now occupies a prominent place in our family room.
Who made it? Unless there is a maker’s mark on the gong block or somewhere else on the movement, I may never know.
“Life is a box of chocolates….you never know what you are going to get”, Forest Gump
Buying a clock without actually touching and inspecting it is always a gamble and making a judgement based on images, many of which are poor quality, complicates the decision-making even further. There are stories of people buying clocks online only to find that the clock they thought had a antique mechanical movement arrived with a quartz one.
There are many challenges facing the clock shopper in today’s online world. Once your interest is piqued you may ask yourself these questions:
Did I get my money’s worth? Will I be “ripped off”?
Will it work when I get it home?
What do I have to do to fix whatever might be wrong?
What did the seller not disclose?
There are accepted rules about buying clocks on online for-sale sites. Online for-sale sites are ubiquitous and in many countries in the world. Here is an example of rules that are found on a particular site that I frequent.
All transactions should take place in person with cash. Do not ship items and do not accept other payment methods.
Never click links in an email that ask you to sign in to xxxx. All “Your xxxx account has expired” emails are fakes.
xxxx, eBay and PayPal do not offer buyer or seller protection for xxxx items. Such emails are fakes.
But for more specific rules on how to buy that special clock you were always looking for, see Ron’s Rules at the end of this post.
Follow this exchange between myself and the seller and consider my thoughts on this and other online clock purchases later in the article.
The clock
Unknown mantel or shelf clock.
Actual Ad photo
The exact words of the ad
Wind up alabaster clock. Very heavy. $80.00
The email exchange between myself and the seller
NOTE: This particular online for-sale site has an encrypted email service, therefore in my exchange I do not know the seller’s actual email address. This is a necessary protection for both parties.
Me
Do you know the company that made the clock and how old it is? Thanks
From the wording of the ad I am assuming at this point that the seller knows very little about the clock
Seller
Sorry I don’t know who made or how old it is. I bought it in an auction a few years back. Thanks xxxx
Me
Since you do not know the maker and I would have to drive from xxxxx, would you accept $60 for the clock.
Seller
Before you decide to drive from xxxxxx I would like you to know that the chimes do not work. I know that the clock would be worth more but 60.00 is fine if you would like to have it. Thanks xxxx. Let me know .
Me
If the chimes don’t work it is not a huge problem. Does it look like all the parts are there or is anything missing? I am still interested if the parts are there.
Seller
Everything is in tact. It was last serviced a few years back and worked great, but went to wind the chimes and they seemed to slip on the spring… However the clock still works just had it put away for a couple of years.
Me
For $60 I will buy it. How does 2pm today sound?
Seller
Yes we will make sure we are at home. Will you find the place OK? If not we could meet you part ways.
Later
I provided the seller with my telephone number. He subsequently calls to give me his address. The call is important because I suspect he wants to get a feel for who he is dealing with and that is the correct way to approach sales such as this.
Thoughts
It is important to be ready to pick the item up ASAP. You do not want to allow too much time for the seller to have second thoughts or to have someone else move in ahead of you. I often suggest meeting that same day, in a neutral place or at their home but most suggest meeting at their home. A neutral place is an option and I had to do this only once in over 2 dozen purchases.
My preliminary analysis based on the limited information that I have is that it is an French or English made time and strike shelf clock and judging from the problem on the “chime” side it might just be a bad click although it is possible that parts of the movement have been damaged. It is impossible to know until I see it and bring it home.
You might suggest I ask more questions about the clock or have the seller send additional photos of the movement or even a closeup of the clock face. It is only a $60.00 clock! In my experience once you attempt to have the seller take extra steps to sell their clock especially a clock at this price, the chances of a loss of sale increases. Were I to shell out hundreds of dollars I would definitely ask for more information and detailed, higher resolution photos.
Ron’s Rules
Locate the clock you are looking for online and try to avoid Chinese or Korean clocks often advertised as “31 day” clocks. (For some reason people think they are worth a lot of money and they are garbage – usually!)
Communicate by email and ask questions but not too many as to scare the seller off. Suggested questions might be:
Does the clock run?
Who is the maker (manufacturer)?
If it does not run, are all the pieces intact?
How old is it?
How long have you had it?
Would you accept a lower price because…….(justify reason(s))?
Arrange final meeting details by phone.
Meet the same day if possible.
Meet the seller in person.
Meeting at their home is preferred but a neutral location such as in front of a public building or in a mall is an option
Pay in cash.
Thank him/her for the sale.
Final thoughts
Check the dates on the listings. The longer they are listed the more the seller is inclined to sell for a better price.
Once, I gave the seller a day or two to think about my offer. I took a chance but got the clock for a decent price. (see first image)
Meeting the same day is crucial; you don’t want the seller to get cold feet and you don’t want someone coming behind you to buy the clock.
Only once did the seller accept a cheque from me because of past dealings with him. Cash is the rule.
If you cannot negotiate a final price by email suggest talking it over on the phone
Be courteous and polite at all stages of the deal
My wife and I are in the mood for a road trip. Now, with cash in hand, let’s get into the car and go for a drive.
This is Part II of a multi part series on the Sessions Westminster A chiming mantel clock.
Side view of Sessions Westminster A
Inside the plates they are a conventional Sessions clock. Outside the plates is an entirely different story
Sessions Westminster A clocks are true chiming clocks that play the Westminster chime sequences on the quarter hours and strike the hour count on the hour. The unique design combines the chiming and striking functions in one train powered by a single main spring. Between the movement plates these movements are very similar to other Sessions non-chime (strike only) movements. The going (time) train is controlled by a basic recoil escapement with the strip pallets or verge located between the plates. Inside the plates they are a conventional Sessions clock.
Outside the plates is an entirely different story. At the front of the movement one will notice that this is a rack and snail strike train but it has TWO racks and TWO snails. A look at the back of the movement reveals a small cam in the middle of the plate and a large “player drum” or pin drum. The two racks working together with the little cam and the player drum, which can shift outward to play chimes or inward to strike the hour, is what makes it all work. The chime sequence is self‐synchronizing and with so few working parts, once setup correctly this can be a relatively trouble free movement. (Source R. Croswell’sTaming the Sessions Two Train Clock)
This clock requires servicing for two reasons;
It runs for several minutes or an hour or so and then stops
The striking and chiming is very erratic. It might strike 4 o’clock one hour and 9 o’clock the next and the hammers “hang up” during the quarter hour chime.
There are a number of “exterior” parts that must be removed before separating the plates
Dis-assembly of the Westminster A is conventional however there are a number of “exterior” parts that must be removed before separating the plates. The regulator gearing, verge, drum assembly, hammers and racks as well as other parts are removed one after another. The additional parts add considerable complication to the movement and can lead to issues when servicing. I will describe two particular issues I have encountered in the process of working with this movement. I believe these issues, which I will describe later, are likely what frustrate most clock repair persons when working on the Westminster A.
Rear plate showing regulator, verge and chime drum. Clamp on mainspring
I chose to leave the mainsprings in while taking the movement apart though I contained the power using C-clamps. On this clock the mainsprings can be removed without dis-assembly. This allows the repair person to easily service the mainsprings or the clicks (which are notoriously bad on Sessions clocks generally).
Unfastening the drum and hammer assembly went without issue since there are only two bolts securing it to the plate.
The 2 racks, a unique feature, work together to produce the strike. They are located one on top of the other and are secured to a post.
Two racks stacked on top of each other. The post on the right accommodates two springs
Taking them off requires releasing a pressure washer on the top of the post. They came out easily. However, one rack is missing a return spring which might partly explain the erratic striking of the clock. Such a simple thing that may make a big difference. I may have to buy or fashion a spring.
Rack with spring
Rack without spring. The spring clips into the hole on the rack arm
Specialized tools are needed to remove some parts. Those I don’t have
Two issues.
One, I could not remove the hub supporting the gathering pallet pins seen here. It’s unfortunate because there is more lateral movement of the arbour that I am comfortable with which tells me that a bushing is required. I did not want to risk damaging the arbour and I don’t have specialized tools to do the job. I may have to live with it. However, it may not be so bad once the other bushing work is completed.
Gathering pallet pins
Two, I could not remove the centre cam despite pulling and gently prying.
Centre shaft cam
Again, I did not want to risk damaging the arbour. Specialized tools, such as a puller in this case, are required to remove it. That, I don’t have.
This clock has a unfortunate reputation for soft pivots
I will have to work around these two issues. Pressure fitted parts on any movement are very frustrating when said parts cannot be removed without special tools and this one is a challenge indeed. Re–assembly might be a little frustrating particularly with the centre arbour still attached to the rear plate which may effectively be “in the way” of positioning other wheels in place.
I inspected the pivots on the wheels and they all look good (no tapering) with expected wear for a clock of this period. I was worried because this clock has a reputation for soft pivots and perhaps because this is a later model, Sessions might have been introduced harder steel for the pivots. There is plenty of bushing work that needs to be done, however.
On to cleaning, bushing work, re-assembly and testing in Part III.
This is Part I of a multi-part blog wherein I explore the challenges of repairing a Sessions Westminster A tambour style time, strike and chime mantel clock. This part is the introduction.
Th Vintage Sessions Westminster A mantel clock
In August 2015 I wrote, “This a good project clock that is not for the inexperienced. As I gain more knowledge I will tackle this most interesting clock.” Well the time is now.
Well, it’s been two years and I have looked at this clock often enough and wondered what it would be like to finally get it running. Time to take the plunge.
The Sessions Westminster A mantel clock was made in Forestville Connecticut, USA. The first year of production for this model was 1927. Between 1903 and 1933 Sessions produced 52 models of mechanical clocks, ranging from advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or “Regulator” clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home.
Some Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors. The Westminster A is particularly sought after though collectors prefer it to be serviced and in running condition.
Raised Roman numerals and faux inlay
The case is in exceptional condition
The clock is tricky to repair and most horologists prefer to stay clear of it
This clock is 21 inches long and 10 inches high, has a mahogany finish with faux wood inlay and raised metal gold-coloured numerals on the dial face. It is a quarter-hour 8-day Westminster chime clock operating on two trains, the going train (time) with the strike and chime train combined. It also has small arbour just below the hour cannon to turn off the chimes/strike and is called “Silent Chime”. Sessions was not alone in producing two-train clocks and other makers incorporated this design later in the 1930’s and 1940’s. However, Sessions was probably the best known for this feature. This clock was sold in 1931 (inscription on label, back of access door). The sale price was $29.95 which would have been substantial considering a working man’s salary in those days.
Sessions Westminster chime drum
The clock is tricky to repair and horologists will generally try to stay away from it. I will be going through a step-by-step process and relying heavily on Robert Croswell’s excellent instructional manual called Taming the Sessions Two Train MovementFebruary 2016 edition.
In August 2015 I wrote, “This a good project clock that is not for the inexperienced. As I gain more knowledge I will tackle this most interesting clock.”
I have done some bushing work and from what I can see there is certainly bushing work to be done. I have removed the movement once before to replace a bad click which as easy fix since the mainsprings can be removed without dis-assembly. The click holds the tension or power of the mainspring and is identified by a clicking sound when the key is turned. But the real challenge will begin as I attempt to understand how the chime mechanism works and if I can re-assemble it successfully.
Follow me as I dis-assemble, clean and repair the movement in Part II.
Occasionally, I receive private email from readers.
One reader asked why I dated the clock to 1950
I received a couple such emails regarding my Kienzle World Time clock and it prompted me to dig a little deeper into the origin of this unique clock.
The clock is substantial, measuring 13 and 3/4″ high, 10″ wide 2 and 1/2″ deep. It is certainly a singular work of elegance, style and a genuine stand-out in any room.
Vintage single train Kienzle World Time desk clock
One reader asked why I dated the clock to 1950.
I referred the reader to this article. The article suggested that the mechanical version of the World Time was introduced the late thirties. It had a healthy production run and there were several variations. Mine was “Made in Germany” (West Germany was created in 1949) and might have been manufactured on or before 1949 which would not have prevented it from selling in the 50s. For most of the ones advertised on Ebay, 1950 appears to be the most commonly cited year of manufacture though there are no specific markings regarding date of manufacture on my clock.
It was designed in 1939 and at least one clock was made that year
However, here is some additional information which suggests that although it was designed in 1939 at least one clock was made that year though it did not go into full production until much later.
A birthday present for an infamous leader of Germany
The first Kienzle World Time clock was presented to Adolf Hitler on his 50th birthday in 1939 by the government of Würthemberg. The classical design with the world map in the “Mercator” (cylindrical map projection) style and the moving narrow scale with the time in the denoted cities came from the, at that time, Heinrich Johannes Möller, a famous designer who was working for Kienzle from 1931 onward til 1970. Möller was hired at age 27 and became Kienzle’s principle designer. The original clock had a bulky “foot” or base and was decorated with swastika patterns on the edge. After the war, the decoration was altered, the base became smaller but the general layout of the dial was preserved through all permutations of the clock, from the early mechanical versions to the electro-mechanical version and finally the quartz movements in the 80s. A curious feature of the clock is that it shows Germany to be the centre of the world.
Kienzle 24 hour time sequencer
Back of Kienzle clock showing winder and speed adjustment
The World Time clock turned out to be a long standing model and was available to purchase up until the 1996 Kienzle bankruptcy. During the period that the World Time Clock was introduced (1939) Kienzle had more than 6500 employees and a production rate of 5 million clocks.
Through the later 50s and 60s Kienzle clocks lost their stylistic prominence and followed then current (international) stylistic influences but Heinrich Johannes Möller was a significant influence not only on the design of Kienzle clocks but in the clock world in general.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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