Last week (January 20, 2023) I wrote about a wonderful little marine clock that I have just not had the time to service completely. A few weeks ago I cleaned the movement and polished the pivots and left it. All that was left was the bushing work. I spent a few hours on it today and it was worn as expected. Eight bushings for a time-only movement is a lot.
It is a 30-hour brass movement made by E.N. Welch in the 1860s. It has a balance wheel or hairspring lever escapement to use a more exact term. The movement is accessed by removing the dial and bezel (4 screws) and releasing 4 screws that hold the movement to the backboard.
Time only with balance wheel escapement, prior to cleaning
A balance wheel escapement should be no surprise to anyone who knows the purpose of this clock. It is a marine clock, designed to be used on ships and trains, not a ship’s bell or watchkeeper’s clock but a marine clock that simply tells the time.
I suspected part of the reason the clock was so slow was a combination of factors, a kink in the hairspring, the general wear of the movement plus all the dirt and grime that had accumulated over the years.
The arrow shows a little bit of kink after my best attempt to straighten it
I separated the plates to discover that the movement had been worked on previously. Sometimes the work is done well and other times questionable shortcuts are taken. In this case, a glued regulating cup screw and punch marks around some of the pivot holes. You play the cards you’re dealt.
A screw is glued, stripped no doubt
It is a pretty simple clock with not many parts.
The arbour with the lantern pinion in the middle is the “seconds” bit, before cleaning
As mentioned, the balance wheel adjustment cup screw in the rear is glued in place and there is only one reason for it, it is stripped. I am going to leave it as is as there remains a front adjustment screw on the front of the movement which also has the speed regulator wire.
Next, I am preparing for the first bushing by centering the bushing hole. You will notice that I am bushing from the outside of the place. The center wheel did no allow enough space to work from the inside of the plate.
Centering the hole on a Bergeon bushing machine
And on to the bushing work.
Using a reamer on a pivot hole
The only tricky bushing was the mainspring arbour which required a 5.5mm bushing, otherwise, the bushing work went smoothly
Mainspring and new arbour bushing
There was more bushing work than I realized. Yes, it was quite worn but I have seen worse.
Cleaned and in place, the lantern pinions and pivots were in excellent condition
The movement is a little tricky to put back together because of the small plates and how the wheels are close together but it went back together without much of a fuss.
Now for the fun part and that is remounting the balance wheel. I am not a fan of balance wheel escapements. If you have worked on old alarm clocks you know what I am talking about, getting the clock in beat. The problem I am having is lining up the impulse spring with the fork. Every time I try the spring is twisted.
Does the clock work? Yes but not well. It’s well out of beat and I suspect there is not enough impulse from the hairspring. This will take a little more time to figure out but I am not in the testing phase as yet.
Just before Christmas 2022, I published an article on a Hamilton Clock Co. 30-hour ogee that I won at auction earlier in 2022. I had been delaying repairs on the case for months and finally found the time to tackle the veneer work.
I seem to be strangely attracted to ogee clocks, this is my fifth acquisition over the past 6 years and I think that’s it, no more except for that seemingly rare-ish eight-day version from any American maker.
The Hamilton Clock Co is in no way associated with any American company or companies and is a wholly home-grown Canadian Company that made clocks in the late 1880s. in Hamilton, Canada that were styled after American ogee clocks of the time.
The clock was complete with weights, pendulum bob, original hands, dial, and even the top dust caps which are often missing from these old clocks. The movement was in good shape and other than installing 5 new bushings to address enlarged pivot holes there was no significant wear. The cables were replaced with braided nylon and the pendulum suspension spring/leader was also replaced.
The case needed veneer remediation, particularly the top corners. The entire side trim piece required a considerable amount of work and the bottom veneer strip was missing altogether.
The next photos showed how hopeless the top right and bottom sections appeared when I first received the clock and had a good look.
Some might argue that the case should be left as-is since the repairs however poorly are part of the history of the clock. This is the never-ending conservation/restoration argument that arises. Preserving some clocks as they are is certainly important but this was not an expensive clock and in this situation, I take the view that a repair will not only improve the appearance of the clock but enhance its desirability if completed correctly.
Step 1– cleaning
The case is solid and no structural repairs are required.
My go-to cleaner is Murphy’s Soap which I cut half and half with water. I begin by cleaning the case which unfortunately means removing some of the shellac. This is unavoidable but there is enough shellac remaining that the case would not be stripped in the true sense of the word. I removed the right side trim completely to work on it separately. The plan was to glue it and the bottom trim piece back on when I was finished with the veneer repair.
Step II – veneer work
I usually keep a supply of veneer harvested from old clocks. I am not the best judge at identifying wood types and find myself confusing Rosewood with mahogany at times but I make a comparison based on what I have and what seems to look the best by comparing colouring and grain and for the most part, it looks acceptable when the job is completed.
I have also learned recently that makers will occasionally use different types of wood veneer on the case surfaces at the time of manufacture and simply dye/tint them to match. In fact, while cleaning the dust caps a bit of colouring transferred to the rag and it looked very much like ocher.
Hide glueon a heating pad to maintain the temperature
Medium-strength hide glue is mixed prior to the project. The working temperature is about 160-170 degrees Fahrenheit.
Marking the piece to cut
Painter’s tape is used to ensure that the ends are not damaged during the cutting of the veneer.
Cutting the veneer
An artist’s or carpenter’s blade is used. Ensure it is good and sharp, you don’t want the blade pulling on the veneer as you cut.
Gluing the veneer to the trim piece
Depending on the bonding strength of the hide glue you have a limited amount of time to secure the veneer in place.
Clamping the veneer to the trim strip
Have plenty of clamps large and small on hand.
Attaching the veneer strip to the case
Once the veneer is attached to the trim piece and allowed to dry for 24 hours it is time for gluing and clamping the right and bottom border strips to the case.
Step III- – the shellac finish
Once the case has dried for 24 hours the shellacking can begin. I use an artist’s brush for the application of shellac using long and even strokes. For larger areas, one might opt for a French polish technique which is essentially a piece of cloth shaped into a ball and wrapped into another piece of cloth and dipped into the shellac. The main idea is to dip and apply the shellac using smooth even strokes.
I generally apply 2-3 coats of shellac, and between coats smooth the surface with 4-zero steel wool.
Final thoughts
I am certainly not the foremost expert in veneer repair but along the way, I have mastered the fundamentals. Each project offers its unique challenges and this one was no exception.
I was somewhat surprised that after cleaning the left and right trim pieces and shellacking both that the right side and bottom trim piece were somewhat lighter than the left side. However, the new pieces added to the right trim section matched quite nicely. This shows up more dramatically in a photograph. But I think the lighting had a lot to do with the contrast. The light and shadows of the clock combined with the sun coming in from the right side of the clock seem to make the difference more pronounced.
The final result
It is also possible that the right side was tinted to match at one time and cleaning removed the tint. Comparing it to other ogee clocks in my collection for some there is a slight variation from side to side and top to bottom but not as striking as on this clock case.
Light source from the left, the contrast is not as striking
At the end of the day, I am pleased with the final result. I would imagine that in time the new or lighter sections of the case will darken somewhat.
I can now add it to other Canadian clocks in my collection.
Some months ago I cleaned the case of this 30-hour marine clock and even polished the bezel. While it looked absolutely stunning on the wall it did not run well, losing upwards of 10 minutes per hour, and of course by any measure that is significant. It is time to find out why.
Case cleaned and bezel polished but what lurks inside
The 30-hour brass movement with a balance wheel escapement is accessed by removing the dial and bezel (4 screws) and releasing 4 screws that hold the movement to the backboard.
A balance wheel escapement should be no surprise as this is a marine clock, designed to be used on ships and trains. Not a ships bell or watchkeeper’s clock but a marine clock that simply tells the time.
Just in case I missed something I checked and the speed regulator lever was set in the fastest position.
I separated the plates to discover that the movement had been worked on previously. The regulating screw for the balance escapement is glued in place. Not good. However, I am reluctant to mess with it at this point for fear of creating a larger problem. We shall cross that bridge when it comes.
I suspect part of the reason the clock is slow is a kink in the hairspring. I straightened it as best as I could. I should have taken a photo to show how kinked it was.
Movement in the case
There are no punch marks around the pivot holes which is generally expected on these old movements but no newer bushings either. In any event, the movement is definitely worn. Most bushing holes are enlarged and new brass bushings are on the list. A good cleaning combined with new bushings and a straightened hairspring should make things run better and improve the timing. So, a combination of factors, let’s hope!
A time-only movement
Here is where I am. I am at the point where the parts have been cleaned in the ultrasonic, the pivots have been polished and I am preparing for the next step, the bushing work. I should have completed the movement weeks ago but unfortunately, so many things have conspired to get in the way that I just haven’t had time.
Let’s call this Part I and a post regarding the completion of servicing will be in a week or so.
My wife calls it the clock office. It is, after all where I work on my clocks and where some are on display. It is also where I compose articles for this blog.
However, it has been getting very cluttered, and I am tired of how disorganized it looks.
We have 4 bedrooms in our 2-story home and my office is in the smallest one. It is also the one I prefer because of the afternoon sun and it is probably the brightest room in the house with two large windows facing west.
My office November 2018
In 2018 the office was manageable but as anyone who collects things or has a hobby, space runs out very quickly.
December 2022, getting very busy
By December 2022 the office was getting very crowded and it was at that point that I decided a major change was necessary. I was also getting tired of looking for places to put things and losing things amid piles of stuff.
The small desk and hutch had to go. It is a real junk collector but more importantly, the hutch area limits the size of computer monitors I can use and I always work with two monitors. The computer desk and hutch will now go to the curb. The computer desk will remain in the same location, however. A new computer desk with a more open design and a back upper shelf for the monitors is replacing it.
Corner bookcasewith spring winder and Bergeon bushing machine
I have been making small changes in the last 4 years but this will be the biggest redo ever. In 2018 I built a shelf for my ogee clocks putting them up on display where they belonged instead of on the floor.
From the left are clocks made by Waterbury, George Clark, and two Chauncey Jeromes
In early January 2023, I added a shelf on the south wall for my Canadian Clocks, the same width, and height.
From the left are clocks made by the Hamilton Clock Co, an Arthur Pequegnat Canuk, two Arthur Pequegant Maple Leafs, and a steeple clock made by the Hamilton Clock Co.Both shelves
The new computer desk may look smaller but it is in fact one foot wider and made with tubular steel and the finest Chinese pressed wood and veneer that money can buy. It also allows for the scanner (not yet placed in the photo) to be located on a lower shelf. The wires in the back are a bit of an eyesore at the moment but a little cable management will fix it.
The bookcase has been moved to a closet that has had the door removed. With the bookcase out of the way, it frees up space for the lathe.
The basement has a work area where clock case repairs, restoration, painting, veneer work, and so on are done. A year ago I moved my Taig metal lathe to the basement but with the reorganization of my office bringing it back up will eliminate frequent trips up and down stairs.
Basement shop
So, that’s it for now. It’s not finished yet, call it a work in progress. When everything is where I want it to be and I am happy with the reconfiguration I will update with a few photos.
Ah, the days when clock companies put a little time and effort into their designs. The Seth Thomas company, in its heyday, produced many attractive clocks and this eight-day shelf clock is one of the finest examples of the 1870s.
Seth Thomas round top
It is a rather large round top shelf clock measuring 15 inches in height, 10 inches wide at the base, and 4 inches deep. The attractive Rosewood veneered case has a mirrored rectangular lower tablet. I have seen some with clear glass but I believe the original design called for mirrored glass.
The grain is bold and striking. A sliver of veneer between the 9 and 12 o’clock position of the bezel which was missing when I bought the clock in 2019 has been repaired.
Veneer missing – before the repair
And after the veneer repair.
After veneer repair
Unique stylized hands with “S” on the minute hand and “T” on the hour hand give the clock the look of distinction.
A characteristic feature of the clock is a very attractive lyre 8-day Plymouth time and strike spring-driven movement on a bell gong with alarm. It looks like it is literally stuffed into the case but once the wood dial mount is removed it reveals just enough operating space for this movement which was obviously designed to be placed in a large variety of clock cases.
Side view of the caseTop view
The movement is die stamped “S. Thomas, Plymouth Conn.”. It is fitted with Geneva stops (stop-works) to improve timekeeping. It is nice to see stop works on clocks since they are often missing.
The plates are held together with taper pins rather than screws. The alarm mechanism is located just below the movement and to the left with the alarm adjustment wheel on the center cannon as was common in those days. Both the alarm and the movement strike an iron bell gong. The movement is mounted on the back of the case by means of wooden blocks top and bottom.
Back panel
To remove the movement from its case the rear panel must be unscrewed.
A good label is affixed inside the case and at the top, ”Spring Brass Eight Day Clocks”, “Made and Sold by Seth Thomas, Thomaston, Connecticut”. The label is largely intact save for a small piece missing in the lower right corner and slight water staining on the bottom quarter.
Without a doubt, this is one of the most beautiful clocks in my collection.
I have saved a few clocks that were one step closer to a garbage bin by taking an aggressive approach to clock case restoration. Is stripping a clock case a travesty?
Firstly, I am not a huge fan of gingerbread clocks which were very popular in America at the turn of the 20th century. Every major manufacturer made them and they sold like hotcakes. Thousands have survived and a quick perusal of online auction sites any day of the week will reveal dozens if not hundreds of them.
The designs were created by using high-pressure rotary presses on oak wood that had been pre-steamed to soften it.
Auction photo
Gingerbread clocks are quite large for a shelf clock and generally unattractive, in my opinion. The only other gingerbread I have, besides the Sessions clock which is the subject of this article, is an Arthur Pequegnat Canuk 8-day time and strike added to my collection in 2019. The Canuk is nicely balanced, well-proportioned, and mildly attractive for a gingerbread clock.
The Sessions Grand Assortment #1, is the ugly duckling of the clock world.
Arthur Pequegnat Canuk
The design of the top is not consistent with the side rails and the base. The crown looks overbearing. It is not very well-balanced and out of proportion but it was the style of the time and thousands upon thousands were sold.
This clock was acquired as part of an auction lot and was relatively inexpensive. I plan to revitalize the case and service the movement but I am not sure at this point whether or not it is worth keeping.
What to do with the case? Here are two shots of the case, the base, and the crown.
Base section
The mottling is what some call alligorating. Over time heat, moisture (stored in an attic or garage), dust, and dirt cause the shellac to coagulate into lumps or globules similar to the skin of an alligator. It is not fun to remove and drastic measures are required to put right.
Crown section
In the past when met with a similar situation I have tried a number of approaches; lacquer thinner, sanding, alcohol, a mixture of cleaners, and so on but the only way to get rid of it entirely is to strip the case. Does stripping diminish the value of a clock? Perhaps, but if done correctly it might even enhance its desirability.
Grand Assortment
The photo above shows a Grand Assortment I worked on in 2019. Obviously, someone added the colouring to the tablet making it somewhat worse rather than better. I cleaned the case of dirt and grime but left the finish as-is. This one has darkened with age but it looks acceptable.
For my Grand Assortment, the only thing that remains is a very aggressive approach. So, off to the shop it goes.
Hmm, is it a Grand Assortment #1 or #1 in an Assortment of Grand clocks?
Thank you, subscribers and viewers. Whether you are a regular visitor, drop by occasionally, or are visiting for the first time, thank you.
This has been the most exciting year yet for antiquevintageclock.com. The blog has done very well and naturally, it is always a thrill to reach the milestone of the most views in the seven years I have had this blog.
It has taken time to build a following, more time than I’ve ever imagined. It takes planning, research, and an investment of energy but most importantly a strong commitment to producing quality articles on a twice-weekly basis.
After seven years I still consider myself a clock generalist though I feel I have become an expert in some areas. Judging from the email I received from you I appeal to a like-minded group who have either stumbled onto my site looking for advice and direction on a particular clock repair issue or are regular visitors who appreciate the content and express their thanks accordingly.
As I look over the articles that have the most views this year it is clear that most of my viewers from around the world are looking for direction with how-to and general-interest articles topping the list.
American New Haven clock movement
The statistics this year speak for themselves with over 190,000 views, and 101,000 visitors from 161 countries. Over the past seven years, there have been over 525,000 views.
The number of views also supports my blog by providing advertising revenue which pays for blog server space, domain registration, email service, cloud storage, clock supplies, and membership dues for NAWCC.
This year I have introduced a new email address to reduce the number of emails that go astray in my personal email account. The new address is ronjoiner@antiquevintageclock.com. Please continue to write to me with your clock issues and with general comments relating to my blog articles.
Again thanks and if you are here for the first time, welcome to articles concerning clock restoration and repair and articles about antique and vintage clocks in general and if you are a frequent flyer, thanks for supporting me all these years.
Ten minutes per hour! That is slow. American-made spring driven clocks are poor timekeepers and if yours loses or gains a minute or two a week that is just about the best you can expect.
After having worked on the case a few months ago it is past time to work on the movement.
The clock was in running condition when I acquired it though it did manage to run its rated 30-hour cycle.
Welch Marine clock30-hour time-only wall clock
Something is definitely amiss. Wear, a good cleaning or something more serious. Read on and we’ll find out what is slowing this clock down.
A Ship’s Bell clock is a type of marine clock but in clock circles, there is a distinct difference between it and the clock you see here.
Marine clocks either tell the time or strike the hours like a normal domestic clock and because they have a balance wheel escapement they can be placed on a moving object such as a train or a boat whereas Ship’s Bell clocks originated in sailing ship days when the crew of a vessel was divided into Port and Starboard Watches, each on duty for four hours, then off for four hours.
An assortment of Marine and Ship’s Bell clocks at the National Association of Watch & Clock Collector museum in Columbia, Pennsylvania
One stroke of the ship’s bell indicates the first half hour of the watch. Then an additional bell is struck for each succeeding half hour for a total of 8 bells.
As seen when acquired
Based on a quick inspection I see nothing amiss other than a crimped hairspring on the balance escapement. I wonder if that might be the issue?
The movement is accessed by removing the hands and dial
Now, let’s take this apart and see what we have. Look for a future article as I detail the servicing of the movement.
As champagne corks pop, glasses are raised and fireworks explode into the sky, it is important to recognize the special symbolism this holiday brings with it.
Amid promises of new beginnings and fresh starts comes a time of reflection and resolutions that more often than not tend to be short-lived. Make an exception this year and make your resolutions last.
The last three years of uncertainty have taught us to be very thankful for family, friends, and relationships. We are back to some semblance of normality this year although the flu season is certainly upon us.
Wishing you all health and happiness during the Christmas season.
My kids stress every year over what to get dad for Christmas. They know that I am an avid antique clock collector and spend my time restoring and repairing antique and vintage clocks. “Is there anything he needs?”.
Holiday in Lego Land
However, it is the little things I appreciate in my Christmas stocking. Kids, if you want to give me something put a new pair of cloth gloves, a box of toothpicks, cotton swabs, or a paintbrush in my Christmas stocking so I know that you are thinking of me.
Christmas is a time of joy, not of giving, unless the giving is in the form of love and appreciation for friends, family, and colleagues.
So, if you are looking for that special gift for the clock lover in your family remember the simple things.
Christmas at home
May this wonderful time of the year touch your heart and the hearts of your loved ones in a special way.
If there is a clock under the tree consider it a timely gift to remind you of days gone by and of happy memories when families got together to celebrate love, and togetherness, to enjoy a feast to remember.
Thank you for all your letters and I hope you understand that at this time it may take a little longer to reply to you.
Should antique clock cases be refinished or rejuvenated? It can be a judgement call. I am all for patina and preserving an old clock case but there are times when certain amount of intervention is practical from an aesthetics and resale point of view.
There is a certain philosophical argument among collectors who believe on the one hand that any intervention is sacrilegious while others feel that some amount of intervention may be necessary to preserve an antique clock.
Auction photo
I won this Hamilton Clock Company 30-hour ogee clock at auction in the spring of 2022 and only now have had a chance to work on it.
I was not specifically looking for a 30-hour ogee as I have 6 already (and who needs another 30-hour clock) but as this clock was made in Hamilton Ontario, Canada it is special to me as adding Canadian clocks is a prime goal as a collector.
Auction photo showing the lower acid etched tablet
A brief history
The company was established in 1876, after the failure of the Canada Clock Company (version 1) in Whitby, Ontario. Using a new factory building and the original production machinery the second company, the Hamilton Clock Co. was formed by three principles, James Simpson, George Lee, and J. F. Collins.
The Hamilton Clock Company made a valiant effort to provide clocks for the Canadian market, in competition with the huge U.S. clock factories in Connecticut that already dominated the market.
Ogee clocks were manufactured at Hamilton, and these were identical in construction to those that had been made at Whitby with veneered pine cases. After four years the company went bankrupt but was shortly resurrected as the Canada Clock Company (version 2), again using the same Hamilton production facilities. Clock production ended in the mid-1880s and it was not until a new Canadian-owned clock company emerged in 1904 (the Pequegnat Clock Co.) in Berlin, Ontario that Canadian-made clocks resumed production.
It is tempting to group the three companies into one, but the design focus of each company separated them from each other, the early company focused on 30-hour movements and simply styled mantel clocks while 8-day wall clocks and more ornate mantel clocks were a feature of the later company.
The case
Yes, it is dulled and tired and it has had a rough life. These clocks are handed down from one owner to the next and in the process they undergo changes. Some of the changes are reversible and some are not. Luckily this clock can be revived and brought back to life.
There are veneer losses, particularly on the two upper corners and the trim strip along the right side. The bottom strip is missing completely. So the challenge is to replace missing veneer with new and old stock but the end result is not always perfect.
The Waterbury clock hanging in my office brings back memories of my grandfather, a man I wish I had known better. Call it one of life’s regrets.
Now, I didn’t know my grandfather all that well and I’m not sure that many people did. He was shy and a man of few words. I don’t think many people really knew him. In fact, I don’t recall having a meaningful conversation with him.
Rank listed as driver although he was a private in the First World War
He passed in 1962 at age 82 when I was only 12.
My grandfather and his brother came to Canada in 1906. There were many British immigrants at the time as Canada offered new and exciting opportunities for young men. Grandfather came from Shoreham, England where most of his family originated, and was employed with the Postal Service but evidently, postal work was not for him and an adventure to the colonies was a better option.
When he arrived in Canada, he chose Ottawa as a place to live. At the time his future wife lived with her parents. Her mother operated a boarding house where grandfather stayed when he first arrived in Ottawa. You might say that my great-grandmother was a matchmaker of sorts, as she encouraged my grandfather and grandmother to spend time together. She must have thought that since he came from the old country he was quite a catch.
My grandfather spoke only English, and his bride spoke only French. So, how they communicated throughout their engagement and the first few married years is a mystery to this day. Perhaps words are not important after all!
When the First World War broke out in 1914 my grandfather did not sign up immediately but waited until 1916 at which time both grandfather and his brother made the decision to join the war effort. Grandfather was not particularly patriotic, and the purpose of joining was to take advantage of an all-expenses paid trip to Europe and more specifically England where he could reconnect with his family in the Shoreham area. At that point, he had been away from his home country for 10 years.
Imagine my disappointment when I saw this
Neither he nor his brother had any idea that the war would go on for two more years. In fact, they thought, and a lot of people shared the same feeling, that the war would end by Christmas, and they would be home in two or three months. Little did they realize how much longer the war would last and the impact the war would have on two young men.
The movement had been neglected for many years
My grandfather was a military driver during the First World War and was in Europe between 1916 and 1918. He witnessed horrific things and retained many of those memories. Today people would use the term Post Traumatic Stress Disorder but, in those days they called it “shell shock”. Post Traumatic Stress Disorder would stay with him throughout his entire life.
My grandparent’s home was very quiet but for the sound of the Waterbury time and strike wall clock. Grandfather suffered from anxiety/depression and it didn’t take much to bother him, most likely due to his experiences in the First World War.
The brass bezel was in poor shape and screwed to the case?
After the war grandfather worked for the Ottawa Transportation Commission for a number of years. He was a conductor on a streetcar and when the OTC switched from streetcars to buses, they eliminated the conductor position. Grandfather was told that he had to drive a bus and since he was unable to drive for anxiety reasons that stemmed from his experiences in the Great War, he left work at the age of 50 and never worked again. But he and my grandmother managed with the help of family.
Touch-ups were required and dirt was removed from the brass
My grandfather painted that old Waterbury clock case the color yellow to match the walls in the kitchen. I guess he thought it would blend in with the surroundings and the ticking of the clock would somehow subside into the walls. When they sold their home in Ottawa the clock was passed on to one of my cousins.
The clock case had no drop door so, a new one had to be made
The clock was tucked in an old barn for many years and when my cousin downsized and moved into a smaller home he wondered if I would have it. In 2018 he contacted me by email and suggested I retrieve the clock. At the time I imagined it was a complete clock with movement, case, and all the important bits but when I picked it up I was disappointed that it had suffered so much through the years.
Cleaned and ready for the next 100 years
I wish I knew what the clock looked like in its day because what I have left is not the clock I envisioned on my grandfather’s kitchen wall many years ago. I have the movement, dial face, and brass bezel. The case and a few other important parts are long gone. The case my cousin made some 40 or 50 years ago is a heavy homemade plywood concoction. He did the best he could but it was clear that he had little understanding of clock case construction and he got a few things wrong.
However, I was determined to do something with it. It now has new dial glass, a pendulum rod and bob, a verge and crutch, a winding key, and a new drop door. I cleaned up the dial as best I could, refreshed the case, and addressed wear issues on the movement.
Grandfather’s clock, plywood case and all
That old kitchen clock is in my office right beside my desk and ticking away and striking as it should. Although I remember it ticking loudly as a child in the back kitchen the truth of the matter is that it is not a loud ticker at all; it is very soothing.
I contemplated ditching the crudely constructed case and finding a period correct one but the clock with all its warts is what it is. The plywood case, as ugly as it is, is part of the history of the clock. So it will stay as it is and it will always be a reminder of a man I wish I had known.
Most mechanical clocks have an hour hand concentric with the minute hand with the hour hand making one full turn every twelve hours. The special set of wheels off the centre arbour is called the motion works. Attached to the centre arbour is the minute hand. The hour pipe fits over the centre arbour and to it is attached the hour hand. This set of gears, called the motion works, is driven by the time train and powered by a spring or a weight.
I am working on a movement made by the Sessions Clock Co. It is from a model called the Grand Assortment probably made sometime before 1920. This is Grand Assortment #1 in a series of three.
Slightly blurry auction photo
The case is in rough shape and certainly needs some tender loving care. I thought my major challenge was putting life back into a tired case (another story) but it appears the movement needs resuscitation as well.
Note from a previous owner, this clock is from around 1915 or so, not 1903
Adjusting the time on the clock is a challenge because the minute hand is very stiff and takes some effort to move it. Something is amiss with the motion works, the time train itself or both.
Motion works at the centre of themovement
I initially cleaned the movement, checked for wear and determined that the little wear I observed should not be enough to affect the running of the clock.
I reassembled the movement and while on the test stand the problem reoccurred, a minute hand that was just as stiff to move as before and after a few hours, the movement simply stopped. I later discovered that the homemade click spring on the time side had unhooked and caught on the second wheel.
As received. Hmm, the pendulum rod is missing
I am not an expert on the meshing depth of gear teeth but I suspect that there is enough wear in the motion works and the time train to prevent the gear teeth from engaging smoothly with the contact point of the next gear, the lantern pinion. The combination of wear in several locations might produce the stiff centre arbour condition. Based on this theory I went ahead with bushing work.
Drilling a hole in the plate with Bergeon bushing machine
This time I was somewhat more discerning concerning potential wear points and yes, a more careful inspection revealed there was likely enough wear to affect the running of the clock. I began with new bushings on the escape wheel rear plate and third and fourth wheels on the time side and finally the second wheel back plate for a total of 4 bushings on the time side; nothing on the strike side. It looked fine.
Reassembly
The main wheel arbours on this movement aren’t interchangeable. It is easy to confuse the two. After reassembling the movement I noticed that the plate did not go all the way down on the strike side. I compared the two arbours and the time side arbour is narrower at the top. Swapping them back to where they belonged fixed it.
Sessions mainsprings on this movement are not interchangeable
Setting up the strike side correctly on the first go-around is probably more luck than skill but this time there was no additional fiddling with the correct position of the warning wheel which is just below the fly.
I did not completely eliminate the stiff centre arbor but it is improved and the clock is running well. If I have to take it apart a third time I will check for a bent arbour in the train or the center arbour itself or a bent pivot.
Let’s assume you have decided to take the plunge and you are at the beginning stages of building an essential tools list for clock repair. Let me help you with your journey.
In the fall of 2022, I wrote about the five essential tools for clock repair. The sidebar will bring you to that article. Tools for clock repair need not break the bank, in fact, you can begin for less than a $100 investment.
The five basic tool groups included the screwdriver, the letdown tool, the pivot locator, the box wrench, and the pliers. If you are ready to move forward with more challenging repairs here are the next set of tools you will require. Assuming you have already purchased the basic tools the 16 additional tools you will require are relatively inexpensive and are the prelude to making your first big jump to specialized and advanced tools.
This time our budget is less than $400 (all prices quoted in US funds).
Let’s begin.
Optivisor or eye loupe
The closer you can see the better. I prefer opti-type visors. I cannot get used to an eye loupe but it is certainly cheaper.
Opti-type visors are more expensive but hinged so that they can be pushed upward and out of the way. I have had a couple of visors in the past but the set I use now is the Magnivisor pro series from Carson which is about $60. The little light at the top goes through batteries fast and sometimes I forget to turn it off, so I don’t use it but you might find it helpful for those dark spaces.
$10 will get you a set of three eye loupes on Amazon.
Magnivisor by Carson
Movement test stand
A test stand is very helpful when disassembling a movement reassembling it and testing it before it is reinstalled in the case.
I have several types for different purposes but I think the one to start with is Gene’s test stand which is under $70. If you are handy in the workshop it is a relatively simple one-day woodworking project that you can build for half the cost.
Clock movement test stand
Clock movement work stand
I use two types. The first is movement plate standoffs and the second is a simple 4-inch high stand cut from a PVC pipe. The standoff set is anchored to the bottom plate by screwing brass end pieces to the four corners of the bottom plate (you can use three if you wish). The standoffs are sometimes called assembly posts and are around the $25 range in cost.
If you have 5-inch PVC pipe lying around simply cut off a 3 or 4-inch section.
Standoffs;either three or four can be usedMovement on standsoffs
The PVC is easy to work with and does not leave screw marks on the movement plates if you are particular about that sort of thing.
The movement is sitting on a piece of PVC pipe
Magnifier light
Florescent or LED. A color temperature of 6500k is the best compromise. Newer LED magnifying lights have custom color temperature settings. I see them on Amazon for about $50. Florescent bulbs have a shorter life than LED. Recently mine burned out and the replacement cost for the circular light itself is around $40 (for a $50 lamp!).
Work-light
Clock oil and oil applicator
I have not had much luck with pen-type applicators and the few I have had have split with repeated use. Plus I am not sure the oil contained within is of very high quality. I am a bit old-school and use a cupped dipper and oil reservoir. Mobius and Keystone are good brands.
Count on spending $10 to $20 for quality clock oil. Motor oil, WD40, and 3-in-1 oil are not suitable substitutes and for me, the jury is still out on synthetic oil.
clock oil applicatorClock pivot oil
Movement clamps
When working with mainsprings, spring clamps are an absolute must for safety reasons. More than one beginner in clock repair has injured themselves by not restraining the mainsprings. A set of flat clamps (my preference) are around $17. If you wish to save money heavy steel wire will do.
Assorted clamps; flat clamp on the upper left
Tweezers
Useful for encouraging tiny pivots into place, picking up small clock parts, and a hundred other uses. A set will set you back $10. Bergeon will happily sell you a set for a few hundred dollars but cheaper blunt nose and needle nose tweezers will do.
Tweezers
Micrometer
Measurement in clock repair is important and a micrometer is essential. They are relatively cheap and can be had for under $20 at your local hardware store.
Using a micrometer to check the pivot diameter
Cotton swabs
A general all-purpose probing cleaner for those tight crevices and corners. You will be surprised how quickly you can use up a box of 400. Under $3. Also useful for cleaning out your ears when determining whether or not your clock is in beat.
Cotton swabs
Toothpicks
There is no substitute for cleaning clock bushing holes. Buy them in the hundreds, you will need a lot of them. Get them at the checkout counter for under $2.
Toothpicks
Mini level
A level surface is required to have a clock in beat. This one by Starrett is over $50 but you need not spend that much. Count on about $10.
Spirit level
Spider key sets
The 4 and 5-prone sets in even and odd sizes will be enough for a vast number of clocks. As you move along in your hobby you will accumulate box loads of keys but a spider set is handier. Count on about $15.
4 and 5 prong keys and singles
Organizing trays
These are dollar-store items. Great for organizing clock parts (and not losing them). You can pick up a wide variety of sizes for under $10 total.
Organizing trays
Screw head holding screwdriver
I have a set by Klein Tools and find it a time-saver, especially when returning a movement to its case and holding and guiding that finicky screw in place. The gripping action holds, starts, and drives slotted screws in awkward, hard-to-reach places. A word of caution; they can be easily ruined if used to torque a screw in place.
I wish they can be purchased separately for a reasonable cost because I never have used the large one. About $60
Flashlight
Great for locating that nut that mysteriously flies through the air and lands on your floor sometimes never to be seen again. There are many other uses as well. The fancy ones are flexible but I have a penlight which is less than $10.
Flexible flashlight
Set of Single-Ended Scaler Probes
Okay, they are the same ones used by dentists to pick at your teeth but they are perfect for pulling that helper wire into position, guiding a pivot in place, or just about any time you need to pick at something, probe an area, de-scale a tooth (clock teeth, I mean), and so on. I bought mine at a dollar store but a set can be had for around $15.
Scalers
Concluding remarks
And there you have it.
For the next level, the costs begin to escalate but after purchasing these tools, and becoming familiar with clock movements through practice you will want to explore your hobby further. In a future article, I will describe how you spend big money on more specialized tools but also how you can get away with advanced repairs on the cheap.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
ED writes
Good morning,
I recently bought a house and the previous owners left this clock behind. It ticks and chimes and seems to be in working order. I’m wondering if you could tell me more about it like what time period it is from and if it is of any value.
Dial face of the Westminster C
Thank you in advance for your time!
My reply
Hi and thanks for your email.
The Westminster C is an unusual clock because it has 2 gear trains to perform what is usually done with 3 gear trains in most clocks, rare but not unique. In most chiming clocks there are three trains or three winding points, one for time, one for strike and one for the chimes.
Two train patented movement
This model is based on patent designs filed in 1926 and 1930. Production of the patented movement began in 1927 so, your clock would be around that time and possibly a year or two later. There is a date stamp on the label but I cannot make it out. Could it be 2912, December 1929?
Possibly manufactured in December 1929
The sale price in 1931 was $29.95, a working man’s weekly salary at the time.
It is a very complicated movement that few repairers enjoy working on, because it is difficult to set it up correctly to have it run reliably. If your clock is running well, you are quite lucky because a repair can be very expensive.
They are uncommon enough that they can still fetch a good price on auction sites ($300-$400 or so).
Hope this helps.
ED write back
This is absolutely fascinating! Thank you for your quick reply. I am now looking at that clock through different eyes.
I appreciate your help, and I hope you have a wonderful weekend.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
TM writes, “We have had a banjo clock in our family for multiple generations, and knowing my family’s history it would not surprise me if it was a Simon Willard original. I understand that is a long shot but it is so hard to find information about banjo clocks or reputable people to deal with. It is in relatively good condition, not knowing when my family acquired it exactly, but it is original to us. I am attaching a picture and would greatly appreciate your opinion.”
The family banjo clock
I am not an expert on Willard banjo clocks but have seen and read enough to inform me that Simon Willard clocks have distinctive features that separate his clocks from others.
My reply was, “Hi, and thanks for your email.
It may or may not be a Willard patent banjo. It would have to go through a process of authentication. An expert would identify the classic hallmarks of a Willard clock which would include movement design and construction, distinctive case features, door catch characteristics, construction of the dial, how the movement is mounted, design of the throat and lower tablets, and so on.
However, two things immediately strike me as odd. First, I have never seen a Willard patented timepiece (banjo clock) with an Arabic dial. Secondly, Willard banjo clocks have simple barbed spear hands, none as ornate as the ones on your banjo clock. Your clock could be a variant or the dial and hands could be replacements or the clock could have been crafted by another maker altogether.
Again, an expert in Willard clocks would provide the answer you are looking for.”
Simon Willard Patented Timepiece, C.1810; photo taken at the Simon Willard Clock museum in 2019
Simon Willard did little to protect his patent and as a result, many copies were made during the Federal period in Boston and in New England. Associates of Willard and apprentices to Simon and his brother Aaron produced clocks by the hundreds. Some of the copies were of high quality though they did not have the desired cache of a Simon Willard clock. And of course, many are fakes.
Willard clock; photo was taken at the American Watch and Clock Museum 2019
According to Robert C. Cheney, executive director and curator of the Willard House and Clock Museum proclaimed that the timepiece is “probably the most faked American clock found today.” Is TM’s clock an original, another maker, or a fake? An expert would immediately determine if it is real.
The photo at the beginning of the article is the only one sent to me and one photo is really not enough to make any kind of definitive judgment but I don’t believe TM has a Simon Willard Patented Timepiece.
A short while ago I received a letter from one of my readers. The writer asked if I knew the size of a Junghans B11 mantel clock spring. That was it. No mention that the spring was weak or broken, just one sentence with no explanation.
My reply: “I do not have the mainspring size”.
I went on to say: “I rarely if ever replace mainsprings in a German clock or any clock for that matter, especially ones that were made over 100 years ago. I do not measure the springs unless I plan to replace them. The reason is that the steel used for the mainsprings at the time the clock was made is of higher quality than the mainsprings sold today.”
Junghans B11 movementwith top plate removed
And then I said, “you don’t mention if the mainspring is broken or not. If you suspect it is weak, it may not the mainspring but there may be friction losses up the train preventing the clock from running its designed cycle, so, the reason for the poor performance must be found, plus the movement needs to be cleaned and bushed, if necessary.”
Junghans bracket clock with B11 movement
The reply stunned me. “That’s the strangest thing I’ve ever heard come from a clock repair person. You cannot expect a 100-year-old mainspring to still have the proper power. ANY proper clock repair person would be replacing mainsprings. It’s crucial to proper service.” I replied that if the customer requests that the springs be replaced or if they are broken, they are replaced.
He replied back, “No it’s because it is needed, bud. Spring steel loses its power after so many years. Springs also become set. I have countless pictures showing this and there is irrefutable evidence of this from clock masters worldwide. Sorry but you not replacing mainsprings is doing clock repair a disservice.”
“Bud”, you say!
I refused to be drawn into a protracted argument that would resolve nothing and the correspondence ended at that point but that got my blood boiling.
My take on mainspring replacement
Way back in clock repair circles and I am talking 15 to 25 years ago it was a general rule to replace all “set” mainsprings and the cost was passed on to the customer. And what is the definition of “set”? A real “set” spring is a defective spring that can no longer power the clock. Few mainsprings actually fall into that category, in my view.
Demonstration of the cleaning of a mainspring
But if we acknowledge that mainsprings can become set, a lot of good old original springs will be replaced and then in a few weeks the original problem resurfaces, and it was not the set mainspring after all.
Sessions mainsprings are cleaned and ready to be re-installed in an American mantel clock movement
Some clock repair persons replace the mainsprings as a matter of course because the additional cost of a spring is nothing (or very little) compared to the cost to disassemble the movement and redo the installation if something goes wrong after servicing. If you are in the business of clock repair perhaps and that is your standard practice, there is nothing fundamentally wrong with that approach. It is insurance against a potential future problem.
A broken mainspringthat cannot be repaired
Unless the mainspring is broken the mainspring is probably good if the clock runs for the period it is supposed to run when and only if the rest of the clock is in good order.
If there are fractures or cracks along the spring, yes replacement is prudent and necessary but if the fracture is very close to the outer end loop, it can sometimes be repaired.
Any cracking or serious rust pitting along the spring and I call it defective and replace it but surface rust is rarely anything to be concerned about.
Furthermore, the poor quality of some new springs makes the decision even more difficult today. But if a new spring is required I avoid anything from India or Asia.
When a clock fails to run a lot of people, especially beginners, assume that if everything else looks good to them that the mainspring must be “weak” or “set”, but unless the spring is actually broken or defective, it is probably fine. Mainsprings generally do what they are supposed to do and often take the blame for non-running clock movements
Using an Olie Baker spring winder to servide a mainspring
Many years ago manufacturers installed springs that were more powerful than they needed to be so that the movement could power through inevitable wear over time. If the main wheel teeth are burring out it is generally the result of a replacement mainspring that is too powerful. Re-using original springs if the spring is in good shape is the better course of action. New more powerful springs may make things worse.
I have been acquiring junk American movements and using them for spare parts and a supply of old loop mainsprings. Usually, the cost of old movements is lower than the cost of new mainsprings.
Final thoughts
I am a collector and repair my own clocks. I do not generally view mainspring replacement as necessary unless issues such as those I mentioned above raise their ugly head.
Many people write to me for advice on their clock issue and I am happy to provide what answers I can. They are kind-hearted folks looking for solutions to their antique or vintage clock problem but every now and again I get tested by somebody who thinks they know everything.
There will be as many opinions as there are clockmakers. However, I believe I echo the view of most clock repairers today regarding mainspring replacement, and perhaps dear letter writer, it is you that is doing clock repair a disservice.
In 1981 my wife and I decided to buy a grandfather clock. We were newly married, living in Calgary, Alberta (Canada) at the time, and thought a grandfather clock would look perfect in our spanking new condominium.
Grandfather clocks were all the rage back then and every home had to have one. Indeed, it was the heyday of the grandfather clock and thousands were sold throughout Canada and the US. Folks spent thousands on a clock and like the old upright piano they cannot be given away today, nobody wants them!
We selected a clock within our price range and put down a deposit which was several hundred dollars, a considerable amount of money at the time. Unfortunately, we had to cancel the order a month later so that we would have enough money for a down payment on our next home.
We regret having canceled the order but had to be realistic. Today neither of us can remember what the clock actually looked like back then and any brochure we had is long gone but it would have been a standard Howard Miller or Ridgeway clock.
In 2013 we noticed a Ridgeway grandfather clock for sale on a local online for-sale site. “Isn’t that something like the clock we ordered many years ago”, my wife said. We made a call, spoke to the seller, and enquired about the condition of the clock. The seller replied, “you’ve got to see it to believe it, it is in perfect condition”, and it was. The price was $500, firm.
Ridgeway grandfather clock
In the years since I have attempted to identify the model name or number and the closest model names I can find is the Hamilton Country or possibly the Sussex made by Ridgeway then owned by the Pulaski Furniture Company in 1996. There was an option at the time for cable drive weights but this one has the more inexpensive chains.
Clock face showing moon dial
The clock has a Westminster chime, a blue moon phase with a constellation, and although the movement is stamped Ridgeway it is, in fact, made by Hermle, model #451-033 with 114 cm pendulum.
The clock has a scalloped bonnet crown, brass dial with raised Arabic numerals, brass lyre pendulum with polished bob, reeded pilasters with brass capitals, and wooden grill access panels, all within a mahogany case (combination of solids and veneers).
Hermle three train movement
This clock is very much like the clock we almost bought in the early 80s.
Back then we would have paid $2000 or more. $500 in 2013 seemed like a fair price but we would be hard-pressed to get even a fraction of that today. Young people today are not interested and with the move to smaller homes, there is no room for them anymore. Perhaps these clocks will make a comeback but I doubt it.
Occasionally, sellers on online for-sale sites ask far more than they are worth not realizing that the price of these things has plummeted in recent years.
There is a certain sentimentality attached to ours and we’ll keep it.
I have been collecting clocks for over twenty years and for the past 11 years I have been building my collection of vintage and antique clocks, repairing them, and restoring them.
I often reflect back to that first “real” antique clock that my wife and I purchased at an antique store in Blockhouse, Nova Scotia in the fall of 2000. Blockhouse is about 2 hours from our home and during our Saturday excursion in the area, we stopped at various craft and antique stores to see what we could find.
The store is long gone but I remember the day we browsed through the store, looked at several antique clocks, and decided upon a Seth Thomas mantel clock.
The first photo of the clock was taken in December 2000
At the time we thought we were happy with the price we paid though as my knowledge of antique clocks grew I discovered that we paid far more than what it was worth. Still, no regrets.
It sat on an old Willis upright piano for a number of years and since then it has moved to our dining room where it is on prominent display.
The clock in 2016
The clock is an 8-day Seth Thomas time and strike. It is in an ebony case with adamantine features. These clocks are known to collectors as “Black Mantel Clocks”, and were popular from 1880 to 1931. The date on this clock is 1907.
Adamantine veneer was developed by the Celluloid Manufacturing Company of New York City and was covered by U.S. Patent dated September 7, 1880. Seth Thomas Clock Company purchased the right to use the Adamantine veneer in 1881. At that time Seth Thomas stamped the year of manufacture on the bottom of each case.
Type 89 time and strike movement
The movement had to be cleaned but it was in surprisingly good condition with one issue, a stripped regulating gear. Because the gear is stripped the clock cannot be regulated by inserting the small end of a 2-ended key into the front dial. However, it has an adjustable pendulum and I will stick with that until I find a donor movement.
Regulating gear cannot be saved
We ran it for a number of years until 2016 when I took the clock apart, cleaned it, and installed 4 new bushings.
It is not a clock that I keep running continuously but every month or so I wind it up and run it since antique clocks need to be “exercised” occasionally.
The clock todaywith gold scrolling restored
Given its sentimental value, it will stay in my collection.
This unnamed fusee clock was acquired from a friend this past summer and after a few months, I am finally able to hang it on the wall. Unfortunately, after having been involved in the extensive cleanup following the devastating hurricane Fiona here in Nova Scotia, there was little time for clock repair. But, now that the dust has settled it’s time to get back to clock collecting and repair.
Unknown fusee time-only gallery clock
It is the first fusee clock in my collection. I have waited a while but this is an excellent acquisition.
This time-only gallery-style clock with a fusee movement is non-descript and quite ordinary and there is nothing special or distinctive about it. It has a 12″ dial and is 15 1/2″ across with a spade hour hand and spear minute hand with a heavy brass dial bezel.
A 12-inch dial is considered the standard size for a gallery clock and a 12-inch dial would have been the maximum size for a domestic environment. Larger 14″ and 16″-inch” gallery clocks would have been found in public areas, factories, and post offices.
Side view showing the rear box
I am not an expert when it comes to identifying wood types but I would say a solid mahogany bezel surround with veneers on the rear access box.
Although fairly heavy it is designed to be quickly removed from the wall by pulling out 4 wooden pegs (two on each side of the back box), very handy for periodic inspection/maintenance. The pendulum leader literally hangs on a notch on top of the escapement bridge so, disconnecting by means of opening up a side door on the right and reaching in is pretty simple.
It has a conventional anchor escapement, a robust bridge, and a sturdy crutch. The plates are held together with screws but pinned to the back of the dial.
There is a trademark on the movement which I cannot identify. Perhaps a reader might identify this English company. I can make out T, an S, an O, and something else. Atson, AT & Son or something with a “z”?
I posted the question on a popular antique clock forum site and expected a response but got nothing.
A trademarkthat I cannot identify
Is it an antique (over 100 years old)? Perhaps, but it could be as late as the 1920s. The plates are thick, the gears are machine cut, cut pinions throughout, a hefty pendulum bob, thick but plain movement pillars, and a generally robust feel all around. It was certainly designed for longevity and reliability. The screwed pillars are a good sign that it was made after 1900.
This fusee has a cable drive. It is unknown whether it originally had a chain as most did many years ago or if it was converted to cable as many were when taken in for servicing. Chains are difficult to source and wire/cable is much more cost-effective.
An advantage of a brass cable is that if it should snap there would be less collateral damage than a chain flailing all over the place. When a chain releases very suddenly the potential for taking out gear teeth and other parts is much higher.
The cable is wrapped around the large spring barrel
Fusee advantages
Constant torque and in theory, more accurate timekeeping are its chief advantages. It works like this. As the spring begins to uncoil the cable is on the smallest diameter of the fusee. The pull on the spring drum becomes less as the diameter of the fusee increases. The diameter of the fusee becomes larger giving greater leverage.
The larger radius at the fusee compensates for the weaker force of the spring, keeping the drive torque constant which is why fusee clocks are better timekeepers than conventional spring clocks.
Accuracy cannot be compared to a quartz clock today but keeping time within a minute or two a week in an industrial/office/domestic setting was perfectly acceptable in an age when the exact time was unimportant.
View of fusee cone
The plan
I am not going to tackle this project just yet but fortunately, it has seen servicing. I can identify at least three newer bushings. There does not appear to be significant play in the movement which is always a good sign so, there should not be a problem if the servicing is delayed for a while.
The rear of the movement shows an escapement bridge and crutch
The movement is not particularly dirty so, I oiled the movement, mounted it on the wall, attached the pendulum, and put it in beat.
Taking the movement apart and addressing any wear issues does not concern me but I must learn more about how to set the preload on the mainspring, which has its own winding arbour (not accessible through the dial) before I dive deeper into servicing this movement.
The clock came without a key and I had to order one, a very large #11 key.
In the meantime, the clock is happily ticking away on my office wall.
People often tell me that they could never have an old-fashioned antique clock in their home because of the noise. And by noise, they are not so much disturbed by the ticking sound as they are about the sound a clock makes on the quarter, half, or on the hour, in other words, a striking or a chiming clock.
But, the ticking sound might also be bothersome. Some of my clocks are loud tickers, they can easily be heard in the next room. Some, on the other hand, are silent tickers, and the only way to determine if they are running is to approach them or observe the movement of the minute hand.
I completed work on a German Jauch time-only clock the other day and could not believe how quiet it was. This is not an expensive clock by any means. So cheap in fact that I only paid $1.65 for it, but that’s another story. It is not rare either, thousands were made but it was engineered to be very quiet.
Jauch calendar clock CA.1979
Of the 90+ clocks I have in my collection, 20 are time-only, that is they are not striking or chiming clocks, they simply tell the time. And it is their simplicity that intrigues me. Many are wall clocks, a couple are calendar clocks, most are antiques and some are vintage. Clocks in and around bedrooms are time-only and all 4 kitchen clocks are time-only as well.
Three clocks located in our kitchen that are set to 3 time zones
Here are eight of my time-only clocks (starting with the Jauch above) and a story behind each one.
This is probably one of the more expensive wall clocks in my collection. It is an unnamed Vienna-style regulator.
Miniature Vienna RegulatorCA.1880
It is in its original finish. The finials on top might have been added but it is difficult to tell. Otherwise, the clock is complete. It was found on a local online for-sale site and the seller did not budge much from his asking price but it is one of my favorite clocks. Sadly, I do not know anything about its history.
Lexington banjo clock CA. 1927
I picked up this clock while on vacation in the USA. It was found in an antique mall in Michigan. A very simple clock, cheap and it runs very well though because it is spring driven it is not one of my better timekeepers. The ticking is just soft enough to be soothing which is why it is the only clock running in our bedroom.
Federal-style banjo clock, possibly John Sawin CA.1840
This Federal-style weight-driven banjo clock was discovered at a yard sale near my home. The seller was trying to steer me toward a 30-hour clock for an outrageous price that I knew was worthless but they obviously did not know the value of this Federal-style banjo clock so I bought it instead for a ridiculously low price.
It was a family clock held by a collector in Wolfville, Nova Scotia (Canada) for a number of years until he passed away. It is a weight-driven clock, very accurate, very well constructed, and very well preserved. The dial glass was broken and other than that, it came as you see it in the photo.
Seth Thomas #2 CA.1920
This 8-day time-only clock came from a business establishment in Toronto, Ontario (Canada). It was well cared for, serviced regularly, and very accurate. The Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was also a popular choice for train stations across North America.
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton; 15-day clock CA.1930
This mahogany-cased gem is an Arthur Pegugant Moncton 15-day double spring time-only clock that was a popular choice for business establishments. It is also from the Toronto area.
Gilbert Admiral with calendar CA.1895
Found in a local antique shop locally this Gilbert Admiral calendar clock looks great on any wall. Unfortunately, I know nothing about it. It could have been either an office or a schoolhouse clock.
Kienzle World Time clock; CA.1949
Highly sought after this Kienzle World Time clock commands high prices on auction sites. This example is in pristine condition and runs but has not been serviced. It was found in an antique shop in Kazabaszua, Quebec. The clock was designed by Heinrich Möller, chief designer for Kienzle Clock Co. of Germany, and it was considered a higher-end big desk office clock that displays world time zones. I can only imagine an important import-export dealer with this on their desk barking orders to send things here and there.
From a repairer’s point of view, time-only clocks are the simplest clocks to work on since there is not much to them. There is only one train and any repairs are straightforward and far less complicated than clocks with two or three trains. On the whole, they are more accurate, particularly weight-driven varieties because they lack the complexity of all those additional wheels and levers which only serve to add friction to any movement. Perhaps its simplicity is its greatest attraction.
My advice. If you are looking for an antique clock and plan to run it but might be bothered by the noise, consider a time-only clock. You will thank me.
Thinking about clock repair? Does the high cost of tools keep you from diving deeper into the hobby? Here are a few basic tools to get you started on clock repair.
These are also the five tools that I use almost every day in clock repair. The tools together are well under $100 and are essential when working on antique and vintage mechanical clocks. The most expensive is a letdown set which can cost anywhere from about $45 for a 4-piece set or approximately $65 for a 6-piece set. The other tools are less than $10 each.
So let’s begin.
The let-down set
The letdown set’s main use is to wind or release mainsprings in clock movements. It can be used on its own or in combination with a spring winder. It can also be used as a key gauge The 4-piece set includes a plastic handle and 3 chucks in sizes: #5-6, #7-8, and #10-12.
Broom handle let down tool
If you don’t mind sweeping the kitchen floor with a shorter broom handle you can make one of these and save even more money.
Four-piece letdown set
The safe release of powerful springs on any clock will save you from broken and bruised fingers, trust me!
The letdown key in action: letting mainsprings down on a German movement
The pivot locator
This tool is 8″ long with a knurled handle. The business end is the pivot locator which is used to gently push and pull pivots into their holes lining up wheel pivots between the plates when assembling clocks. It is long enough to go deep between the movement plates and is useful when working on either small or large movements.
Never try to muscle pivots into their bushing holes since it will lead to disastrous results such as broken and bent pivots. This tool is designed to allow you to carefully position pivots into their holes without the risk of damage to the wheels and gears. Every clockmaker I know has this tool.
Pivot locator
Flat nose smooth pliers
Below is an assortment of pliers, always good to have but the green handle one (center) has a spring action, a flat nose, and smooth jaws to prevent the marring of surfaces and is the first one you should buy. Smooth jaw pliers are also useful for releasing taper pins on clock minute hands. Others include needle-nose and wire clippers.
Assorted pliers but the flat nose type (centre) are the ones used the most
Box wrench
The photo below shows the small size of the box wrench among other tools. It is used for releasing nuts on movements. It grips better than pliers and spares the nuts from unnecessary abuse.
Screwdrivers and box wrench; the blue handle slotted screwdriver is one of my top tools
Screwdriver
The blue handle screwdriver is of the slotted type. Before the days of the Robertson or Phillips screw, flat head or slotted screws were used in clock making, especially case construction. Begin with the small size and gradually acquire an assortment for all your clock needs.
Beyond the basic tools, it all depends on how far you want to pursue clock repair as a hobby or a vocation. Obviously, the costs begin to escalate as you acquire more complex tools but follow my advice; determine the need for the tool first before you put down your money, establish a budget, avoid buying everything at once, and become an expert on each tool you acquire and shop on the used market when possible.
This is the only mission-style clock in my collection. Made by the Sessions Clock Co. of America in or about the 1920s it reflects classic Mission design and is rather attractive. I was not searching for this clock but a $10 find in a Pembroke, Ontario thrift shop is hard to pass up.
Though this clock is a non-running Sessions movement they are simple enough to work on. The time side was easy to get running with a simple crutch adjustment but there was a good reason the strike side had not been working in many years. After servicing the movement I now understand why it ended up in a thrift shop.
Mission-style clock by Sessions
The case is in reasonably good condition requiring a light cleaning and there is nothing missing overall save the winding key which can be easily sourced. The minute hand fell apart while I was setting the time, probably as a result of being bent so many times but it can be easily repaired.
The movement is a conventional Sessions design with a between-the-plates escapement setup as opposed to earlier Sessions movements that had outboard escapements. The movement is complete and everything is there including a few extra parts thrown in for “good” measure.
Movement issues
I observed a number of “X” marks around bushings but absent are punch marks or replacement bushings. Was there a plan to install new bushings?
An X mark beside a bushing hole and why the mysterious drilled hole adjacent to the escape wheel bushing hole
An “X” mark usually indicates a bushing hole that requires remediation, and why is the mysterious hole perilously close to the escape wheel bushing hole?
The cam wheel pegs for the strike lever have both been soldered and although it is not the neatest work the repair seems solid.
Soldered cam wheel pegs
The actuator arm for the hour strike had been bent so many times that it snapped off when I tried to test the clock before disassembly. This can also be repaired.
The real fun begins
I make it a point to label the mainsprings so that the time and the strike mainspring return to the same location. At times it makes little difference but, at other times, as in the case of this movement, the difference is significant.
In this movement, there is a slight difference in the strike mainspring arbour design so that the arbours cannot be reversed. Because of the slight variation in the strike side mainspring arbour the gears do not mesh correctly if the arbour is reversed. A past repairer switched the two mainspring arbours, time to strike side and strike to time side, and bent wheels to make them fit.
The count wheel is shaped into a bowl to force it to engage the second wheel arbour
Because the mainspring arbours were switched, a previous repairer had screwed a small brass piece into the plate to push the arbour to the right and enable the second wheel to engage the count wheel.
Brass “fix”A brass piece (left) was screwed into the plate to push the second wheel toward the count wheel
A piece soldered onto the arbour to prevent lateral movement was unnecessary because the abours had been switched.
Brass piece soldered onto the time side mainspring (below hammer) to prevent the arbour from moving too much
It took a couple of assembling and disassembling tries to discover the problem, which is valuable time wasted on the bench.
In short, a past repairer did not understand what they were doing and made unnecessary changes complicating what would otherwise be a routine service. Home-cooked repairs are at times functional but often they are an absolute disaster and sometimes the most challenging part of clock repair is fixing other people’s shoddy repairs.
The remainder of servicing went as expected. There was some movement of the pivots in the pivot holes but not enough to justify bushing work at this time. As expected there is less wear on the strike side.
Minute hand fixed, hands, bob, and numerals polished and now on display
So, another clock was brought back to life and a satisfactory repair despite the challenges.
Nothing is perfect. Antique and vintage clocks often suffer the ravages of time and neglect and a neglected old clock is far more difficult to bring it back to life if it is missing crucial parts or repairs have been crude and haphazard. Improper restoration can significantly decrease or destroy the value of some pieces. However, the repair of a botched restoration might be the right choice in certain circumstances.
A complete clock is always the first thing I am looking for when adding new clocks to my modest collection. Dealbreakers are usually broken and irreplaceable tablets, replacement movements, missing crowns or toppers, and unreadable (ruined) dials. A clock that is complete and not altered is always preferable to a clock that someone has “worked on”.
Junghans Crispi wall clock: A ground-up restoration with many new parts, however, it is a functioning clock that shows well
I may consider clocks that have a refinished case if the standard of refinishing is high. I am almost never opposed to cleaning a clock of grime and dirt and applying a coat of traditional shellac (if needed) if that was the original finish or remediating minor veneer issues. A missing finial can always be replaced with a suitable alternative, clock hands can be replaced and some clock movement parts that have worn out can be purchased from a variety of sources.
Does the total restoration of a Junghans Crispi wall clock (above) with many new parts some of which are not faithfully reproduced have value? Perhaps not, but the buyer might be pleased with the end result.
One might argue that any change can devalue a clock but most collectors I know are content with making subtle alterations to the clocks they work on if it means improving the look of the clock, putting it in running order, and presenting it as more desirable for resale.
I recently read a very interesting article (no link due to a paywall) that posited that in select cases reproduction parts may not devalue an antique clock and in fact, might enhance its value if the parts were made exactly the same with the original machinery.
Not the $20k clock but a clock made by Ithaca Clock Co. C.1865 (NAWCC clock museum Columbia Penn.)
The clock mentioned in the article is an Ithaca double-dial calendar clock that sold at auction for close to $20,000 despite eleven “new” reproduction parts. The photo above shows an example of another clock made by the Itaca Co. in the 1860s.
I was intrigued by the repair and the article went on to mention the work of Joel Warren. Mr. Warren operates a business called Ithaca Calendar Clocks Co. The company specializes in making reproduction pieces for Ithaca clocks. Mr. Warren has a past association with the Ithaca company and possesses the original circa 1895 shaping machine, knives, and tooling from the company. He can reproduce arches, circles, and ovals of varying lengths and widths.
Back to the question: do reproduction parts devalue a clock? The answer as you would expect is yes, no or it depends. Two experts looking at the same clock might agree that the quality of the restoration might enhance a clock’s value but disagree as to the extent of restoration particularly if the restoration goes too far when most or all of its original components are replaced. Is it then the same object?
Case in Point
In what circumstances is the repair of a botched restoration the right choice? A bad repair or restoration of the case might be irreversible but structural repairs should be addressed.
I won a Scottish tall-case clock at auction 3 years ago. It was a relatively inexpensive acquisition but the clock came with a number of issues. I won’t go into the repair of the movement but a lot of work went into rectifying the strike side.
There were issues with the case but the main problem was a detached backboard. The broken backboard (held on by crudely applied modern finishing nails) certainly made it easier to transport the clock in my station wagon because it fell off when I attempted to move the clock. I knew that it had to be repaired otherwise the bonnet would not be stable.
Scottish tall-case clock with broken backboard
I first had to strengthen the side mounts with high-strength hide glue and slotted screws salvaged for an old clock case. It was not enough to screw the backboard which was in two sections into the side rails so, I fashioned a cross brace of salvaged pieces from an old 140-year-old ogee clock.
Re-attached backboard with cross bracing
The structural repair was necessary because a previously unstable backboard is now much stronger and able to support the bonnet.
Other than cleaning the case and dial and applying two coats of traditional shellac to the wood surfaces the front of the case is as found.
On display
Nothing is perfect but some flaws can be addressed with minimal intervention without taking too much away from an antique clock and might even enhance its value.
Daylight Savings Time in Canada begins on March 13th and ends on Nov. 6, 2022.
But, do we really need it! Daylight Savings Time has no place in our modern world. Of 195 countries in the world, approximately 70 countries observe Daylight Saving Time in at least a portion of the country. Japan, India, and China are the only major industrialized countries that do not observe any form of daylight saving.
At 2:00am Sunday, set your clocks behind one hour if you live in an area where the convention is still followed.
Regions that typically use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time.
In Canada, we have a little aide-memoire, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.
How to safely adjust your mechanical clock(s)
The simplest and safest method is to stop the clock and wait for the correct time, then, restart it,
Move the minute hand slowly clockwise to the correct time, stopping briefly for the quarter-hour on chiming clocks and the half-hour for striking clocks. If you have a movement with a rack and snail you can move the minute hand quickly through the hours as rack and snail movements are auto-correcting.
Do not move the minute hand backward unless the instructions that come with the clock specifically say that it is safe to do so otherwise, damage to the movement will result. As a general rule, I always advocate moving the hands of any clock forward.
This time change convention is a scourge, it is very wasteful and unnecessary in our modern world.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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