Category: mantel

Junghans bracket clock – servicing the movement

Junghans bracket style clock, tilted to adjust the beat

I posted the first look at this clock a while back.

The Regency style veneered mahogany case of this Junghans time and strike bracket clock is in reasonably good shape save for a small piece of veneer missing on the front right corner and replacement chrome feet which look decidedly out of place.

The movement ran briefly after I got it home but after a short while refused to run despite adjustments. The seller says he had had the clock for two years and never had it running so I was sure it needed a good cleaning. In any event, my plan was to service the movement.

The movement is has a maker’s mark with B11 just below it. This refers to the approximate date of manufacture, the latter part of 1911.

Removing the movement

To remove the movement remove the hands, first the minute and then the hour hand. Open the rear access door to release two thumbscrews screws underneath the movement seat board. Move the gong assembly aside (or take it out completely by releasing a screw on the bottom of the case) and remove the works.

Junghans time and strike movement, B11 is under the Junghans trademark

Assessing the movement

This is a well-made movement. Early Junghans movements were robust and strong runners. I have heard stories of Junghans clocks from this era running well despite being very worn. Junghans’s movements are a cut above Mauthe, Hermle, HAC, and other mass-produced German clocks made during this period, in my view. The movement exudes quality with solid front and back plates though lantern pinions are favoured over cut pinions.

The movement has been serviced at least once, so far as I can determine. There is an “S” mark on the strike side barrel cap, helpful when returning the barrels to their correct location. I did not measure the mainsprings but the strike side spring is notably longer than the time side. There are two possible reasons, one that the strike side mainspring was replaced at some point in the clock’s life, or two, there is more load on the strike side requiring a stronger spring.

Junghans movement top view, strike side

The mainsprings are in good condition and there is plenty of power though there is more oil than necessary within the barrels. After assessing the movement I could see that there had been no significant repairs in the past. The crutch has been bent in several places in an attempt to adjust the beat but otherwise, everything looks reasonably good for the age of the clock.

Junghans movement, plate removed

Disassembly

Separating the plates was more difficult than it should have been. I had to remove all four pillars (secured by screws on both ends) to determine what was sticking. I discovered that the motion works centre arbour pivot was “stuck” in the backplate. By “stuck” I mean that although the wheel was moving freely the end of the pivot had been flattened. Why I don’t know. Had the pivot been punched in an attempt to enlarge it, had someone hammered the pivot end for whatever reason, had the pivot been replaced or it is possible that the plates had never been separated and that is how it came from the factory? Once the pivot was pried from the plate I rounded the end with a file and it now fits perfectly.

Junghans B11 movement
I use a screwdriver to point out any washer I find on a movement

All parts were cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner which removed a considerable amount of accumulated grime. As always the ultrasonic cleaner does a great job with lantern pinions and the lantern pinions, on all 6 wheels, are in excellent condition.

There has been no bushing work done on the movement. The only punch mark I observed was just below the escape wheel outside the plate where an attempt was made to close the hole.

To bush or not to bush

After cleaning the movement, pegging the holes, and polishing the pivots the next step is deciding whether or not to bush the movement.

I could see that some bushings may be required, 4 on the backplate where there is more load on the wheels and 2 on the front plate for a total of 6, 2 on the strike side, and 4 on the time side but I will make a final decision once I have checked the entire movement further.

I installed all the wheels and checked for pivot movement within their respective pivot holes. The wear was not excessive. However, after much thought, I decided there is enough lateral movement of the pivots in their holes to affect its running. Besides, I wanted to place the clock in a prominent area of the house and by addressing wear issues now the clock would run well for some time without another servicing.

Seven bushings were installed, 3 on the time side, and 4 on the strike side. The largest one, which I did not include in my initial assessment, was a 4.5mm (OD) bushing for the count wheel.

Junghans front plate count wheel bushing
Junghans front plate new count wheel bushing

Re-assembly and testing

Once all the pivot work is complete and the holes pegged out again it is time for re-assembly. Setting up the strike side of the count wheel strike means ensuring that the warning pin is sitting just off the locking lever (12 o’clock position), the drop lever is sitting on the flat section of the cam wheel, and the count lever is in one of the deep slots of the count wheel.

Testing the Junghans movement; beat amplifier attached

Only this time it was not all roses. The strike train consistently missed the half-hour strike because the count lever would drop in the middle part, not the beginning of the deep slot, occasionally missing the half-hour strike. Plus, the count lever did not completely rest on the cam. I cannot remember spending as much time correcting the strike side on a German movement as I did on this one. On one occasion I had everything together to discover that the paddle was hanging off one of the points of the star wheel. Having too much load at the beginning of the strike either will stop the strike or add one more strike to the indicated hour.

I must have taken the movement apart 5 times, and of course, each time I reassembled the movement I was wary of damaging those tiny pivots. Eventually, everything worked out. Sometimes when working with German countwheel strikes everything falls into place the first time. Not so much this time.

While on the workbench, I replaced the old tired suspension spring with a new one.

Junghans clock dial
Junghans clock dial numbers have been retouched

So, after a long-overdue cleaning and a few new bushings, the movement is oiled and is on the test stand. After several small adjustments to the beat, it is now running and striking as it should.

Now to see how we can address a grimy silvered dial. Join me in a couple of weeks as I take you through cleaning the dial face.

Ansonia Syria parlour clock – a favour for a friend – Part 1

Ansonia Syria label

Over the summer I was asked to service a friend’s clock. It is an attractive machine-carved oak Ansonia Syria parlour clock in the popular Arts and Crafts style of the late 19th century.

”my poor clock needs a good servicing and cleaning. It runs slow, eg. I set it and would it on Sunday and by Friday it’s about 14 minutes slow, about 2-3 minutes per day, and it needs new hands”

It has great sentimental value to my friend but she recognized that it was in need of adjustment or repair. It had been in her late husband’s family for a number of years and she wanted it to preserve it as a reminder of his life.

Ansonia Syria mantel clock

It was in a well-packed box and in it was a note. The note said, ”my poor clock needs a good servicing and cleaning. It runs slow, eg. I set it and would it on Sunday and by Friday it’s about 14 minutes slow, about 2-3 minutes per day, and it needs new hands”.

Packaged with care

I opened the box, attached the pendulum, gave both arbours several turns, and started the clock. The fact that it is in running order and striking correctly is certainly a positive sign and testament to the fact that it was serviced in the past. Does it need a simple cleaning and regulating or is something else going on?

Apart from a couple of nicks and scratches, the case looks good. I asked the owner if she would like the case reconditioned and she said she prefers it the way it is. Fair enough.

The Ansonia Syria is an attractive mantel clock and according to the label affixed to the inside of the back access door, it is an 1878 Paris Exposition winner. This is helpful because it allows the clock to be dated. On the movement, there is a patent date of June 18, 1882. It is probably safe to say that it was made within a few years of the 1882 date which puts it in the late -1880s to 1890s. Tran Duy Ly in his book on Ansonia clocks (page 245) lists the year of manufacture as 1894.

The Ansonia Clock Company competed with many popular clock companies of the time; Waterbury, Gilbert, Seth Thomas, E. N. Welch, and New Haven to name a few.

Let’s look into this clock a little further. A few interesting anomalies struck me as I examined the clock case and the movement.

  • Just above the 12, there is a brass insert that looks like the head of a large pin. It is there to conceal a hole. Although difficult to see in the photo, the letters “S” and “F” appear at either side of the pin. The pin hides the hole for the regulator. Clocks with this type of regulator come with two-sided keys and the smaller end is used to insert into the hole and regulate the clock to slow it down or speed it up. The dial pan is also held in place by common nails.
  • This movement in this case does not have a regulator mechanism and the mechanism was not removed from the movement. This is a period-correct Ansonia replacement movement that originally came out of a kitchen clock with an alarm. The alarm would have been attached to an activating lever which has been cut off on this movement (see the centre of below shot).
The base of the alarm actuator
Standoffs on the back of the movement
  • In the above photo, you can see standoffs on the rear plate and clearly standoffs on the front plate. The front standoffs are fashioned from a brass ribbon, bent, drilled out, and cut to fit. The clock is, what we term in the clock business, a marriage. It is always nice to see that it has a movement from the same manufacturer and from the same period as the clock case but a marriage certainly reduces its desirability and makes it difficult to classify it as an antique.
  • Next, the suspension spring post has been re-soldered, loose perhaps.
  • And lastly, the hour hand is a replacement. The original hour hand would have been a trident style.

That having been said, the clock has great sentimental value for the owner, and the fact that it is a marriage and has undergone changes over the years may not be a factor.

The movement has been worked on in the past. There are 16 replacement bushings. The bushing work looks professional and after a first look perhaps 2 or 3 require replacement though none on the strike side. Otherwise, the movement was dirty and had thick black-greenish oil residue on several pivots. Not surprising in an antique clock but indicative of some level of wear. The mainsprings were dripping with brown oil, but I have seen a lot worse.

The next step is to service the movement. Part 2, in four days’ time will detail disassembly, bushing work, and general cleaning.

Pequegnat Simcoe – servicing the movement

Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe

Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe mantel clock
Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe mantel clock

The Simcoe is one of 8 Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my collection. It is very similar in dimensions and style to the Jewel produced around the same time but a few dollars more at the time. The Jewel is an unadorned box while the Simcoe has more bling, a piecrust dial bezel, claw feet on each corner and lions head handles with rings on each side.

Time and strike movement with steel plates
Time and strike movement with nickle-plated brass plates

To collectors, it is often referred to as a”Berlin” clock. Although it is impossible to date Pequegnat clocks the name Berlin distinguishes clocks made before 1917 and those made after and up to 1941 when the factory finally shut its doors for good. Clocks made prior to 1917 were inscribed “Berlin”, Ontario on the dial face as Kitchener was known as Berlin until midway through World War I. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario (Canada). Those made afterwards have only the company name.

I passed by the clock in an antique store in Victoria, British Columbia without realizing that it was a Pequegnat. My wife has an eagle eye, told me to take a second look and I returned. Sure enough, a Pequegnat!

The yellow oak case is in very good condition with one or two small scratches and a chip just above the top of the bezel. The dial pan has had an ugly repair, there are two dabs of solder at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock protruding through the front of the dial.

Piecrust bezel
Piecrust bezel with some ugly repairs

The working movement looked to be in good shape but I expected some wear when I took it apart. After all, it is nearly110 years old.

I don’t know why Pequegnat chose to nickel-plate its movements. Perhaps the look was more exotic but the practical reason was to mitigate the formation of rust, The plating distinguished itself from similar American offerings notably the Seth Thomas number 89. Earlier Berlin movements had nickel-plated brass plates while later Kitchener clocks had steel plates with pressed in brass bushings.

Nickle-plated brass plate, rear

Front plate with duller finish

On to the movement itself. Having a bell for the 1/2 hour strike adds to the complexity of the movement. It does not surprise me that later Pequegnat dispensed with the bell and relied on a passing strike gong. A keyhole regulator adjustment on earlier clocks, another complexity, gave way to an adjustable pendulum.

Key hole regulator adjustment

As expected, there were no surprises. The only evidence that the clock has been worked on is the newer strike side mainspring which is slightly smaller in height than the time side. Regardless, both springs run the full 8-day cycle.

There was no evidence of bushing work in the past and it is no surprise that it required some bushing work. Four were required on the time side and one on the strike side: S2R, T3F, T4F and EW front and back.

Assembly and testing

Now on to assemble and test the movement.

Assembly went well. On the test stand, the movement seemed to be working well but after a few days, I observed that it was not striking every hour. It was working well before I worked on it, so, something is amiss.

I wound the mainsprings tight thinking it was a power issue until I discovered that the helper spring on one of the lifting levers did not have enough tension. In other words, the unlocking lever was not lifting the count lever to prepare for warning. The solution? Tighten the lever helper spring.

In the meantime, I gave the case a good cleaning and one coat of shellac.

After a week it is running well and back on display.

Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe
Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe

Don’t throw those old clock parts away

Don’t throw that old clock case or movement away. In this article, I will describe how I repurpose/reuse an old ogee clock case and how saving those old clock parts will come in handy someday.

Some time ago I responded to an ad on our local online for-sale site from an individual who had four clocks for sale, all for $20. I had no idea of the condition of the clocks but for the price I couldn’t lose but I knew it would be interesting. So, off my wife and set off for a 30-minute drive north of our home in Nova Scotia. The seller had them spread out on a table in an old barn. They had been stored in an attic for many years and were filthy.

None of them were in great shape but three came with mechanical movements which was worth the price alone.

They are:

  • E N Welch 30-hour Ogee movement and case,
  • Elisha Manross time and strike steeple clock, with 30-hour movement,
  • Ansonia Extra Drop time-only, 8-day wall clock with movement,
  • Waterbury mantel clock, replacement quartz movement.

That ogee case on the left was missing half of its veneer and would never be whole again

I managed to salvage two clocks from this bunch.

The Ansonia Extra Drop is hanging in my office and runs daily. The Elisha Manross steeple clock from 1843 has been cleaned up, serviced, and is now on display. The Manross clock has the distinction of being the only one in my collection with rare brass mainsprings.

A couple of missing pieces but looks good and runs well (reflection between 6 & 7)

Both clocks look great

Elisha Manross 30-hour steeple with brass mainsprings and new right finial & base

The Welch ogee and the Waterbury mantel clock were well beyond the due date they still had use as donor or parts clocks. I removed the brass bezel, strike rod block, dial face, rear door, and hinges from the Waterbury clock and tossed out the case which was not salvageable. Even the veneer could not be reused.

There was quite a bit to salvage from the Welch clock. I took out the movement, cleaned it, and put it aside to be used as a spare Ogee movement. I removed the pulleys, glass, hinges, iron nails, door catch and stripped the case entirely of its Rosewood veneer.

A new door made from the back panel of the ogee

Waterbury shot drop with new/old door

Talk to any clockmaker. Many save parts from clocks beyond repair for future use

Veneer from the ogee was used to make a new finial base for the Elisha Manross steeple clock

A section of old wood is glued to a missing section of the backboard for the Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock

Veneer from the ogee clock was used to cover the finial bases for an old Scottish tall case clock.

Talk to any clockmaker and you will find many that save parts from clocks beyond repair. Conserve, do not throw anything out, it may have a future use as a hard-to-find part for a repair.

Sessions electric table clock refinishing – a father-daughter project

Sessions 3W electric table clock
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Finish almost completely gone
Finish almost completely gone, right side

My daughter found this vintage Sessions electric table clock, a model 3W and gave it to me as a Christmas gift. It is made, by the Sessions Clock Co. Forestville, Connecticut in 1936 and sold in Canada (a Canadian Standards Approval sticker is on the back).

Left side

On the back, it states that it consumes 2.5 watts, I guess they couldn’t call it model 2.5! It was probably a very affordable clock in its day and available almost anywhere.

At 4 1/2 inches tall and 8 1/4 inches wide, it would fit on any countertop, bookcase etc. but it lacks an alarm it would not be a suitable bedside table clock. There is only one control in the rear, a push-and-twist-in knob that sets the time. Pretty simple!

On the workbench
Stripping the finish

Everything else, the face, hands, brass bezel were in great shape but the finish on the case had almost completely worn off. It is one block of wood and likely pine and likely tinted lacquer.

My daughter and I chose to work on the finish together. We stripped the case down completely and applied a light walnut stain. Several coats of shellac followed by sanding with 0000 steel wool between coats and finishing with paste wax completed the project.

New and improved 3W

The result is a richer, darker finish, more in keeping with the original. Given that it runs so well a refinish is a complement to a very simple but stylish desk clock.

My collection of Arthur Pequegnat clocks

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There are a fair number of Canadian clock enthusiasts that have various sized collections of Pequegnat clocks. Skip Kerr‘s extensive collection immediately comes to mind.

Although my collection is modest by comparison with just eight Arthur Pequegnat Canadian-made clocks they cover a range of models from kitchen to wall clocks.

The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company was in business in Berlin, later renamed, Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) from 1904 to about 1941. Pequegnat clocks are well known among Canadian Clock collectors. Many are still running today and they can be easily found on local and national online for-sale sites and you might even find them on the northern border states of the US.

Here they are; I will let the captioned photos speak for themselves.

Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock, otherwise known as the “Fan top”

Restored Athur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock
Arthur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock (variant with larger dial)

Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe mantel clock
Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe mantel clock, Berlin period

Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time (time-only) wall clock

Arthur Pequegnat Brandon (second version)

Arthur Pequegnat Canuck kitchen clock (otherwise known as a gingerbread clock)

Arthur Pequegnat Kitchen clock, Maple Leaf, otherwise known among collectors as the “pointed top”

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, double spring time-only 15-day clock, post-Berlin (after 1917)

My journey goes on as I continue to purchase Pequegnat clocks adding them to my collection. I have yet to secure a tambour style clock and a Regulator #1 is certainly on the top of my list.

Fleet Time Company of Montreal – Westminster chime mantel clock

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Here we have a nondescript mantel clock from the Fleet time Company of Montreal. This little known Canadian clock company had a short life between the years 1936 and 1940 producing a range of two and three-train mantel clocks with movements sourced from Germany. All clocks had pendulums and were spring-driven. According to business records, the company was listed as an importer of clocks and watches. The locations were 440 McGill and then 303 St. Paul West, Montreal (Canada).

The Second World War took a heavy toll on this company as the source of movements dried up and so the future prospects of this small company (information obtained from the Canadian Clock Museum, Deep River Ontario). One wonders why they did not diversify and source movements from France and Germany like the Forestville Clock Co. of Toronto during the war years.

Wood cases were made in Canada for some models while other cabinets were imported from Germany.

Gufa chime movement

This clock has a Gufa movement and one can assume most of their 3-train clocks had this movement although some movements are marked “Foreign”. Gufa is the Guetenbacher Uhrenfabrik, located in Gütenbach, Germany. They manufactured 400-day clocks and cuckoo-clocks and later they became the “Jahresuhrenfabrik” (August Schatz & Sons in Triberg, Germany).

Battered company plate, simply says “Fleet Clocks”

Close-up of foil plaque

The movement does not work because the time side mainspring is broken. The case is in bad shape and I am not sure how I will proceed but it is beyond simply cleaning, touching up and polishing. At this point, the only option is stripping. I am always reluctant to strip the finish from an old clock unless it is the only option. In any event, the case will be a late spring (2020) project.

The case needs a lot of work

This is another Canadian clock added to my clock collection although the fact that it was assembled and sold on Canadian soil is its only real qualification.

E N Welch Cottage Extra servicing Part 1 – assessment

E N Welch 8-day cottage clock
E N Welch 8-day cottage clock

This rather plain, box-like 8-day hour strike shelf clock is up for servicing. I wrote about first impressions in Sept 2019 and said at that time that the clock is in reasonably good condition, runs well, but needs a good cleaning.

Continue reading “E N Welch Cottage Extra servicing Part 1 – assessment” →

Jerome and Co. mantel clock – success at last

How you ever wondered what keeps antique mechanical clocks going? It’s a miracle they work at all when they are as worn as this one.

Jerome & Co. time and strike movement with front plate removed, minus the escape wheel

Most old clocks I come across have common issues, dirty, oily movements and worn pivot holes here and there. Generally, all they need is a bushing or two and a good cleaning to put right.

Last week I wrote about a Jerome & Co. time and strike mantel clock I bought in Springfield Mass. during the annual convention of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors in June 2019. However, no amount of encouragement would make it run reliably.

Continue reading “Jerome and Co. mantel clock – success at last” →

Aunt Theresa’s mantel clock

Hamburg American Clock Company time and strike

My wife’s aunt lives in a quaint home near a small town in the south of Ireland. During our recent visit to Ireland we were invited to her home, had tea and cake and had a long talk about family history.

While there I was asked to take a look at the family clock which had not been running for a number of years. Aunt Theresa and her husband (now deceased) received the clock from his brother, an amateur antique collector, many years ago.

HAC’s are good quality movements with well-made cases

The clock is an attractive and somewhat large 6-column Victorian-style 14-day time and strike mantel clock with Roman Numeral dial made by the Hamburg American Clock Company. It is model #1902 probably made on or about that date. Hamburg American clocks are known for good quality movements with well-made cases.

I will take a look at it, I said, but without my tools, there is not much I could do. I wound both arbours and determined that the mainsprings had plenty of power. I gave the pendulum a push and immediately observed that there was power going to the escapement but there was an uneven tick-tock, so, the clock was out of beat. I propped up one side of the clock sufficiently to find the correct beat and it not only ran but dutifully struck on the half-hour. It works!

In the clock case was a note.

A note found inside the case

The note said,

Tried getting the clock to go on 22nd Sept ’92- worked at pendulum for a long time. I think the clock was too tightly wound. On morning of 23rd Sept, started pendulum again and it’s going since. The clock has not chimed yet. 6th Oct 92 gave the clock a small wind up as it had stopped

I admire aunt Theresa’s tenacity but the clock refused to run after the second winding way back in 1992, 27 years ago.

Time and strike movement with coiled gong

Here is what I discovered about the Hamburg American Clock Company.

In 1875, Paul Landenberger together with his partner, Philipp Lang, founded the Landenberger & Lang clock factory and although he had taken some know-how with him from Junghans (a noted German clockmaker), the company was bankrupt by 1882/1883. It was converted to a stockholding firm and with new investors, the company was re-named Hamburg-Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik (Hamburg-American clock factory).

The name might suggest that they had American made movements but that is far from the case. Hamburg is in the name because that is where the investors came from and “Amerikanische” referred to the movements which were made according to the “new” American mass-production methods.

Among clocks circles, the company is simply known as HAC.

Nice label with model number above

The familiar crossed arrows trademark mark found on the coiled gong was registered in 1891. The “Lux” trademark, which this clock does not have, was added in 1905 so, it places this clock between those years. Model #1902 might even suggest the year it was made. Junghans eventually gained influence over the company and by 1930 was able to take over HAC completely.

The good news is that the clock runs and that there is nothing fundamentally wrong with it but after all these years it needs a good servicing and that means disassembly and cleaning by a qualified clock repair person.

Antique clock shopping experience

Although I did not buy any clocks during my trip to the west here are examples of what you might find in some of the better quality antique shops. The three shops these clocks are from are located on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada.

Let the photos speak for themselves. captions identify some of the clocks.

Trio of clocks, the middle one is a Grand Assortment by Sessions

Continue reading “Antique clock shopping experience” →

Who or what is Aro Clock Company of Montreal?

I frequently take photos of clocks in antique stores. If asked I say that I have a friend who is looking for that exact clock and I usually get away with it. In Ladysmith, British Columbia I came across a Canadian clock that I have never seen before. On the bottom of the dial it says “Mfg Par Aro Inc Canada”.

Who or what is Aro? I could find very little information. They were evidently based in the province of Quebec and likely the city of Montreal. My research tells me that they made two styles of clocks in the 1960s. This one, a kitchen clock and a schoolhouse clock.

Clock with inscription “Mfg Par Aro”

Both have 8 day Japanese trapezoid open plate time-only movements.

Continue reading “Who or what is Aro Clock Company of Montreal?” →

Sessions Grand Assortment #3 gingerbread clock

This is the only true gingerbread clock I have in my collection, temporarily. By this summer (2019) it will be returned to a family relation.

Dial and movement has been removed; notice the 4-colour tablet design

Can you get this thing working, my sister said? Sure, I said. Grand Assortment is an odd name for a Sessions clock, I said. The name certainly lacks imagination, but this particular clock is one of three in a series and sold for $4.00 in 1915 and could be configured with alarm and/or cathedral bell. This particular clock is Grand #3.

Continue reading “Sessions Grand Assortment #3 gingerbread clock” →

Seth Thomas mantel clock – detailing makes a difference

This Victorian period Seth Thomas mantel clock was in very good condition when I bought it close to 20 years ago. It sat on an upright piano until it was serviced in December 2017.

Image from October 2000, atop a Willis upright piano

During servicing 4 bushings were installed. The clock was then relocated to another room.

The clock would certainly benefit from detailing

The model is not actually called the Adamantine. Adamantine is a chemical process applied to the clock case and it was meant to be an inexpensive alternative to onyx or marble. An expensive looking clock for the masses! Adamantine veneer was developed by the Celluloid Manufacturing Company of New York City in 1880 and the Seth Thomas Clock Company purchased the rights to use Adamantine veneer in 1881.

Rear showing time and strike movement

I have seen many Adamantine clocks on online sites and antique shops and on some the scroll detailing is visible which leads me to think that the gold coloured paint that once filled the detail on this clock case and others has been long gone.

Continue reading “Seth Thomas mantel clock – detailing makes a difference” →

Gilbert model 2038 8-day mantel clock with Normandy Chime

My wife was going through the online catalogue of an estate auction recently and found an attractive vintage Gilbert tambour style clock.

Gilbert mantel clock 1925

“Are you interested?” she said. “Sure”, I said, “put a maximum bid of $35”. We won the bid at $25 + tax and buyer’s premium, so, still under $35 CDN. Would I have paid more? Not likely. However, it is a handsome “Napoleon hat” styled clock but they were plentiful and cheap at the time and not particularly valuable or desirable today despite the fact that it is almost 100 years old.

Continue reading “Gilbert model 2038 8-day mantel clock with Normandy Chime” →

Dry home and clock case issues

Winter, along with the dry conditions of a typical Canadian home, can play havoc with wooden clock cases. In Canada we generally shut the doors and windows to keep the cold air out from mid November to mid March and we may stay inside for days at a time. During our Canadian winter we have difficulty controlling indoor humidity. Most modern homes have a commercial style air-exchanger that is designed to control relative humidity but it can only do so much.

I have dozens of clocks and most do not seem to mind the changes in humidity from season to season other than a rate adjustment. Those vintage clocks that are adversely affected tend to be clocks with thin veneers that separate from the frames of the cases. Less affected are Ogee clocks with thicker veneers.

My Ingersoll-Waterbury time and strike clock from the mid 1940s is a 70 year old clock and not a particularly valuable one to begin with but has been affected with peeling veneer. The peeling veneer is unsightly and must be addressed.

I am not opposed to using modern materials to repair a vintage clock and in this case yellow carpenters glue was used to close the gaps on both the left and right rear of the case. Yellow carpenters glue has a bonding strength of 3 tons and for maximum effect is should be clamped for 24 hours.

Split veneer on left side, rear

Both sides of the case were splitting open. The right was slightly worse than the left. Although I have several clamps I only had one to spare for this little project so, the job was spread over a few days.

Right side is clamped

Wax paper is placed between the clamp and the veneer to prevent the glue from adhering to the clamp itself.

Once the glue has bonded, the case is lightly sanded in the affected areas, the remaining cracks treated with wood filler and touched up with a dark stain.

Stain-able filler in the small cracks that remain

Two coats of shellac are then applied.

Not perfect but an improvement.

Clocks and museums

I am not fanatical about humidity as far as my collection is concerned but museums go to great lengths to control humidity. In museums temperature and humidity are interrelated, and must be monitored and controlled in conjunction with one another towards the goal of preservation. Room temperature is usually established according to the needs of visitors, and is set between 18 and 20°C. The relative humidity for the correct conservation of the works displayed usually lie in the limited range between 45 and 50%.

Clocks react to humidity differently. Clocks with wood pendulum rods need seasonal adjusting as the wood contracts and expands with changes in humidity. Wall clocks that have tight doors in the summer are easier to open in the winter as wood contracts.

High humidity can be mitigated through the use of humidifiers if there is sufficient concern about dry air and its effect on clock cases. It is a good option in the winter months.

If you have a modest collection of clocks I would not worry about humidity issues but you can be assured that seasonal changes can have an affect on your clocks.

Ansonia Marquis crystal regulator – a reader’s clock

Ansonia Marquis crystal regulator circa 1904

I asked reader and fellow horologist Bob G. if he could kindly give me permission to profile one of his favorite clocks, an Ansonia Marquis crystal regulator circa 1904. This is a very impressive clock that showcases the best of Victorian style at the turn of the twentieth century.

The photos are Bob’s and I will let them largely speak for themselves. But first some information about the company.

Much has been written about the Ansonia Clock Company. The company’s history can be found here. Formed in 1844 the Ansonia Clock Company had a relatively long life but went into receivership just prior to the infamous stock market crash of 1929. The machinery and dies were sold to a Russian holding company thus ending the long reign of one of Americas best known clock companies.

“…there came an order to supply the Soviet union with men and machines to make watches and clocks, neither of which products ever had been manufactured there. Representatives of Amtorg went to the Ansonia Clock Company in Brooklyn and to the Duber Hampden Watch Company of Canton, Ohio, and bought them lock, stock and barrel. Then they hired most of the skilled employees of the plants to go to Russia and operate the familiar machines. These have been installed in a new, many-windowed building in Moscow, where Russian apprentices are beginning to master the trade.”

An inglorious end to a fine clock-maker. Now to Bob’s clock.

Clock face showing Brocot “open” escapement

Bob writes:

the Ansonia “MARQUIS” crystal regulator mantel clock is an eight-day time and strike with open escapement, jeweled pallets, porcelain dial, thick beveled glass and a brass bezel. The hands and pendulum appear original and it came with an old key which is probably a replacement. There are no hairline cracks or chips that I could see in the dial or the beveled glass. The pendulum is the same as the one shown in the 1904 catalog.

Pendulum bob showing faux mercury in two glass tubes

Ansonia listed the MARQUIS in its 1904 catalog. It may have been produced a couple years either side of that date. The original price in 1904 was a whopping $40.00, not cheap for that time period. $40.00 in 1904 is equivalent in purchasing power to $1107.48 in 2019.

The clock measures 15½ inches high and 7½ inches wide with a 4-inch porcelain dial. The case is listed in the catalog as polished brass, “rich gold” ornaments.

Side view of the Marquis

I purchased this clock as part of a large collection. The owner had passed away, and his grandson was settling the estate. The grandfather had opened a jewelry store and clock shop over 73 years ago and the store is still in operation today.

This clock needed a good cleaning, and the brass was badly tarnished.

Tarnished brass base

After cleaning and polishing

The gold ornaments were left intact to preserve the rich patina.

Ornamental features, the legs and crown

The entire clock was disassembled, and the brass parts were run through an ultrasonic cleaner, then polished.

Back plate, coiled gong and hammer

The movement was also taken apart and cleaned. All the bushings and pivots were in good condition. One of the jeweled pallets needed to be adjusted and reset with shellac.

Trim pieces in place

It took about a week to get this beauty all back together and running again, but it was worth the effort to see it ticking away and keeping great time.

Thank you Bob. A most impressive clock.

The jeweled pallets are made from garnet, a precious stone consisting of a deep red vitreous silicate mineral. Here is an interesting 1905 catalog showing Ansonia’s collection of crystal regulators. Page 24 shows the Marquis with a price increase to $41.80. As Bob pointed out, a hefty price for a clock in its time.

At least orient the clock photo!

For sale

Gilbert antique mantel clock

If you are going to sell a clock tell me more about it and why is it sideways? It does not take much to orient a photo! Very annoying.

Is it mechanical or electric? Looks like it is key wound from the rear.

 

Gilbert tambour clock with Normandy Chime – movement servicing

Gilbert mantel clock 1925

This Gilbert tambour style mantel clock is model 2038 with a bim-bam strike or what Gilbert called a Normandy chime. The model number along with the words “Normandy Chime” are stamped on the bottom of the case. Gilbert called this the “Normandy Chime” as it was reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy (Corneville) in France. In terms of nomenclature within clock circles, calling it a “Chime” certainly adds to the confusion as this would be considered a striking clock rather than a chiming one.

Whoever did the past bushing work chose to avoid the motion works area, and for good reason

The Movement

And now to service the movement.

Dis-assembly of the movement is done in the conventional manner with the exception of two items. Both the striking disk (upper arrow) which runs off the cam wheel and the passing strike L bracket (lower arrow) which runs off the centre cannon are friction fit and must be pulled off beforehand to work on the movement. I don’t have a puller but two small screwdrivers positioned across from each other will lift the parts off with minimal effort. Do not polish the ends of these two rear pivots.

Arrows showing striking disk and passing strike L bracket

A prior examination of the movement revealed that it is generally good shape. Overall, the lantern pinions are in good condition with minimal wear. There has been extensive bushing work completed in the past. I see six replacement bushings on the back plate and seven on the front for a total of thirteen which suggests that there was a lot of wear. They are all in very good condition which tells me that the work was done fairly recently.

It also tells me that whoever did the past bushing work chose to avoid the motion works area and for two reasons. It is a tough one to fix because there is so little brass to work with and there is not a lot of torque on this wheel so it can be left as-is.

Although the following photo does not show it well, there is a lot of play in the bushing hole. This is the only one that is addressed in this servicing because I wanted to ensure good meshing of the motion works gears.

Motion works gear with bushing wear

To address the motion works bushing I sought advice from my colleagues at the NAWCC forum site with comments ranging from doing nothing to immediate replacement. The best advice came from a member who suggested I install a smaller diameter bushing and broach out the hole to fit the pivot and that is exactly what I did. A #46 Bergeon bushing was chosen with a diameter of 3mm and an inside diameter of 1.30mm. The pivot is 1.48mm and the result is a side wall that is about 0.80mm. This should allow the gear to mesh nicely and since there is not a lot of torque on this gear the fix should last a long time.

Re-assembling was straightforward. There are no helper springs on this movement so there was no tension pushing on the levers. The only adjustment I had to make was to pull the movement slightly apart to correctly align the stop pin to the stop lever so that the movement strikes as it should.

Arrow showing stop pin (my healing thumbnail from a mainspring that let go)

Since the movement has a Normandy chime the striking hammers are located outside and to the bottom of the movement.

Striking hammer assembly for Normandy Chime

The final process in re-assembly is to attach the hammer mechanism. But before doing so two parts are re-attached, the strike wheel and the L bracket which are pushed back into place. Once in place they can be moved slightly to sync the hourly and half hour strike.

Some folks give Gilbert movements a bad rap but they are not much different than a Sessions, or similar inexpensive movement of that period and the fact that this one is still functioning after over 90 years has to say something for its engineering.

Over-winding a clock is a myth

Mainspring barrel

Over-winding a clock is a common myth.

The world of horology reveals an assortment of interesting expressions as well as the misuse of words and terms. For classic example; why do some refer to shelf clocks as Mantle clocks when a mantel is something you wear like a shawl or a cloak? Mantel, such as a shelf over a fireplace, is the correct term.

I want to focus on one very common expression. How many times have you the heard the expression, “it was running fine till I over-wound it”? I have heard it often enough on clock forum, Facebook sites and among acquaintances. It is an ubiquitous expression. Do not blame the last person winding the clock for they are not the cause of a so-called “over-wound” clock or one that stops mysteriously.

Over tightening

While it may be technically accurate that a mainspring can become damaged by repeated over-tightening that is, winding the spring until it is tight, and then continuing to tighten it more just to be on the safe side, there is another reason why this occurs.

Take a spring barrel like the one in the following photo.

Barrel showing a very wide gap
Barrel and winding arbour

When the spring is wound it is coiled tightly around the winding arbour. The other end of the spring has a small hole which is hooked over a small stud, which is riveted into the interior wall of the barrel.

The hole allows the spring to be hooked to the inside of the barrel

The hole in the spring can become fatigued because of years of repeated “over-tightening”, and/or the stamped hook or riveted stud breaks free. “Over-winding” is not the reason.

A dirty movement

American open mainspring clocks “appear” to be “over-wound” because of a buildup of old oil, rust and dirt in the mainspring coil which causes the coil to stick and the spring to seize.

Clocks which might appear to be “over-wound” and non-working can be persuaded to run again by letting down the mainspring completely with a let-down tool, liberally applying mainspring oil and rewinding. This procedure is by no means a substitute for a good cleaning and it does not address other issues that may be causing the clock to stop but it is one step in troubleshooting your clock movement.

It is only when the movement is disassembled and the mainspring is removed from the arbour that you can examine the condition of the mainspring and decide whether to keep it or replace it. Dirt and old oil can be easily cleaned up. Light rust on a mainspring can be removed with emery paper or steel wool; heavy rust and the mainspring should be replaced. Inspect the spring for cracks or breaks. In many situations the mainspring can be saved.

In some cases the click can let go because the rivet securing the click becomes fatigued. For example, Sessions clocks have weak clicks and rivets. Inspection and remediation of a bad click is a typical procedure when servicing a Sessions clock.

Open mainspring click riveted in place.

Do not expect a newly acquired clock to have been serviced recently or at all unless the seller can prove it. Moreover, servicing a mechanical clock on a regular basis is an important part of ownership.

“Over-winding” is one of those terms that one hears quite often and is a very common myth.

Schatz W3 – Installing an 8-rod chime block in a custom made clock case

Some time ago I bought this movement without a case.

Having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body

I discovered this Aug Schatz & Sohne W3 (circa 1960) movement at a local antique store for under CAN$20. My wife said, “You should buy that, maybe you can make a case for it”. “Hmm”, I thought; that would be above my pay grade. The movement looked interesting and it was not expensive so, why not! But, having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body but I was confident that one day I would have the solution.

This is a type W3 movement. “W3” refers to three chime tones, St Micheal, Whittington and Westminster.

Rear plate
Rear plate of the W3 movement showing chime selector and chime/strike hammers

I put out a plea and two people contacted me to say they had a case that would fit. One lived in Australia and the cost of shipping the case was too high. Another corresponded twice but I sensed he realized that his case would not fit. So, I put the movement away. On a positive note it runs well.

Schatz and Sohne W3 movement installed in a custom case

The pursuit of a custom made case

In the spring of 2018 my son’s girlfriend suggested that her grandfather could build the case. He loves doing this kind of work, she said. Although skeptical at first, I accepted her offer. Though a skilled craftsman her grandfather is over 90 years of age but spends as much time as he can in his woodworking shop in rural Virginia. He agreed to do the work. I sent the measurements to him but he preferred to have the movement in hand so it was sent to Virginia. He was able to use the movement as a guide in constructing the case. The clock was returned to me in December 2018 and it looked absolutely perfect.

Now to the installation of the chime block

The dimensions of the case allowed ample room to place a chime block. The block and rods are 7 1/2 inches long but even so there was not much room to spare on one end. The 8-rod chime block is from a Canadian clock supplier and is designed for a Hermle triple chime movement. There are not a lot of 8-rod chime blocks available through suppliers and given that I had little choice I had to assume that it would work for my clock and it does!

This video describes the placement of the chime block and some experimentation to achieve the optimum sound.

The tapered sections of the rods are an inch long and the hammers must be positioned to strike the wide point of the rods for best results. The oak base was trimmed to fit, allowing for about an eighth of an inch between the rods and the hammers. To close the distance to the rods the hammer wires are bent and centered on the rods. As they are brittle, chime rods should never be bent!

Chime block and oak piece forming the base

Once I was satisfied that the chime block was correctly positioned the block was secured. First I screwed the chime block to the hardwood base with 4 brass slotted screws. And finally, I secured the chime block through the base using two 1 1/4 inch slotted screws through pre-drilled holes.

I gave the case one more coat of shellac before putting it on display.

I am impressed with the outcome. Not all movements have such a happy ending.

A Smiths Enfield mantel clock comes back to life

Smith Enfield time and strike

Smiths Enfield mantel clocks are highly regarded by beginning clock collectors due to their popularity, abundance, and durable movements. For amateur clock repairers, they offer relatively few challenges.

I acquired my Smiths Enfield time-and-strike clock in 2013 from a young clock tinkerer in Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, but it was never a reliable runner. It would only run for a few minutes before stopping. Eventually, the clock was set aside and left in a corner of my shop.

Post war English time and strike movement

While not an especially attractive clock it embodies the utilitarian design typical of post-war English clocks from the late 1940s and early 1950s.

After several months and armed with new knowledge of clock repair, it was time to take a second look.

About Smiths Enfield

The Enfield Clock Company (London) Ltd. was established in 1929, with its first clocks sold in 1932.

The company utilized modern assembly line techniques to manufacture and assemble its clock movements, inspired by the American system of automated factories. Initially, clocks were sold wholesale and for export, with the movements supplied to shops that would then assemble the cases themselves. Enfield took pride in producing “British-made” clocks. However, in 1933, facing difficulties competing on price, the company was sold to Smiths Industries, which led to the name change to “Smiths Enfield”.

In 1935-1936, they introduced a striking 14-day clock in a Jacobean Oak case, which helped solidify the company’s position in the market. With the outbreak of war in 1939, the factory shifted to wartime production. While clock production continued, material shortages became a significant challenge.

After the war, American machines were allowed to be kept and production of the 53mm movement re-commenced. Production was later moved to the Smiths factory at Cricklewood and then later to their Welsh factory in about 1955. Under Smith Industries the production line was changed to watches. Ultimately all clock production was phased out and the company closed shortly thereafter.

A New Suspension Spring?

I serviced the clock in 2015, and it needed bushing work. Since the wear wasn’t severe, I thought I could delay it for another two years. However, the clock has not been running since then. At the time, I knew little about the purpose and function of a suspension spring, and since I assumed the one that came with the clock was correct, I thought there must be another issue causing the clock to run poorly.

Suspension spring post

It’s time to revisit the suspension spring to determine if that’s the issue.

Suspension spring location

Over the past four years, I have accumulated an assortment of suspension springs and, through trial and error, found one that is either correct for the movement or very close.

The suspension spring has a mounting hole on one end and a small T-bar on the other where the pendulum hangs. I replaced the old spring with a shorter, more flexible one. As a result, the clock started running. In the first week, it lost about five minutes, but after making minor adjustments to the pendulum length, the timekeeping improved with each change.

The takeaway from this is that the correct suspension spring is crucial to whether a clock runs, and it should be considered as one of the potential reasons when a clock is not working.

Crazy Clock ad – do you know what you are selling?

Advertised clock

Okay, here’s the description.

Carved pine antique mantle Grandmother clock circa 1900

“Pine”, “1900” and “antique” might be correct but what style is this clock? It is not a Grandmother clock but commonly known as a kitchen clock or a Gingerbread clock. It is not carved but steam pressed and tens of thousands of these were made.

If you are going to ask $125 you had better know what you are selling, who the maker is, what kind of clock it is, any issues and the overall condition.

Tick Talk Tuesday #20 Pequegnat Classic mantel clock $6 online purchase

Tick-Talk Tuesday

The Classic, made by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co.

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

DS from New Brunswick, Canada writes, “Good day Mr. Joiner, I have purchased my first Pequegnat clock by accident. It was just a parts buy but I was quite surprised to see it was an Arthur Pequegnat Bedford Classic.  Now I’m looking at resurrecting this old girl. My concern is the dial. I’ve found a few few Bedford clock online but they have porcelain dials with a proper side hinged bezel but mine is a metal dial soldered into bezel so it opens upwards? I removed the bezel to try to rotate it but the only screw holes will only mount it as you see it. Would the brushed(?) metal dial have been an option or is this clearly a poor replacement. Any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated. I live just outside of Buctouch and could make the trip if you would like to see it for a closer inspection.
Thanks”

A reused label

My reply,”

Hi and thanks for your email.

Nice find. First of all it is called the Classic. The Bedford label was used and crossed out. Though not common I have seen this before.

I have attached a link to the Classic which is part of Skip Kerr’s extensive Pequegnat collection. You will see that his clock has a smaller (original) dial which is in keeping with the size and style of the case.

http://www.skipkerr.com/image.aspx?id=832

It is a Pequegnat dial though not normally for that particular clock and yes, Pequegnat made brushed metal/painted metal dials. I have never seen a Pequegnat clock with the hinge in that location but you never know, it might be a variant.

It might also be a replacement. If so, I would think that the “newer” dial’s hinge would not fit if hinged on either side. Are there any screw holes at all on the left or the right? The dial is soldered to the bezel? That is unusual. I don’t see any glass?

The next is a link to an article I wrote concerning a Bedford clock. You will notice that the case is quite different and yes, the dial on mine is a replacement and larger than the original, just like yours.

Restored Athur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock
Arthur Pequegnat Bedford model, mantel clock

Rather than change it out I would keep it the way it is, after all, it is part of the clock’s provenance.

Here is a post on the Bedford clock

Buctouch is a very pretty area.

Hope that answers your questions.”

DS replies,”Thank you sir, it was a $6 online auction purchase. I was fond of the case style and thought I could strip it and update it for our guest room, maybe even paint it (I know I used the “P” word). Once I received and inspected it couldn’t believe it was a Pequegnat. Thinking it was another mass produced import I expected missing parts and poor veneer but other than the missing glass and hands it is complete and in working order. I’m honored to have the opportunity to save this piece and will enjoy it for many years to come. The body has only one set of screw holes for the bezel, I tried to reposition the bezel then I would re-solder the face in the proper position but nothing lines up except the current position so I welcome your idea to leave it as found.

Thanks again for your advice and link I will definitely take a look. I enjoy researching and learning with each new piece I collect.

Happy hunting, DS”

Later DS wrote, “Well sir I’ve cleaned up the original case, installed new hands and replaced the glass. I believe the bezel and face may be original. There are only one set of screw holes in the case and the bezel and when I correct the bezel the wood trim on the case interferes with opening the bezel. So there it is my first Pequegnat. Thanks for the information on my clock. Now on to the next.”

Another happy Pequegnat clock collector.

Best clock moments of 2018

2018 was a successful year for my horological hobby in many ways. I met interesting people with fascinating stories, discovered new antique clock sources and had fun along the way. The best clock moments, in no specific order, during 2018 were:

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton

Finding an Arthur Pequegnat Moncton double-spring time-only wall clock was a big plus. This clock has been on my wish list for 5 years and I finally found one in excellent condition and the price was within my budget. This brings to seven Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my collection.

Seth Thomas #2 Regulator

The Seth Thomas #2 has been on my wish list for 5 years as well. This single weight-driven, time-only wall clock is from the 1920s. It is Mahogany veneered and like the Moncton is in very good condition. It is now hung in my front entry way.

Seth Thomas Regulator #2

August Schatz & Sohne W3 shelf clock

In August 2017 I asked for help finding a case for my Schatz movement after locating it in an antique store. Little did I realize that I would eventually have that case.

Rear plate
Rear plate

This is the result when you ask a 90 year old cabinet maker and joiner from Virginia to make a case for an August Schatz & Sohne W3 triple chime movement.

August Schatz & Sohne W3 mantel clock

A special thanks to all those who commented on articles and those who send me letters concerning their particular clock problem

Selling clocks

I sold two clocks this year not because I did not like or appreciate them but I must pare down my collection to allow space for new acquisitions. The Juba Schatz “bim-bam” time and strike mantel clock was one

Juba Schatz time and strike clock
Juba Schatz time and strike clock

and the other, a Mauthe Westminster mantel clock.

Acquiring new tools

Aside from small hand tools acquired this year, the most significant purchase was an L&R Ultrasonic cleaner which does a terrific job of cleaning clock parts.

Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R
Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R

Setting up and organizing my workshop

I managed to create space in my basement for an area to work on clock cases and other related woodworking tasks. A new drill press is on the far bench to the left.

New work area in basement

Cuckoo clock

My first cuckoo clock was a gift from my cousin this past year. It is in good working order but it will need a new set of bellows which will be one of my summer projects in 2019.

Dave’s cuckoo clock

Antiquevintageclock.com

I am pleased that my blog has also been very successful with over 93,000+ total views. I would like to thank all those who commented on articles and those who sent me letters concerning their particular clock issue.

I look forward to this new year and I am sure that 2019 will be an equally successful year as I further my horological pursuits.

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