If one were to ask those with a keen interest in Canadian antique clocks, the word Pequegnat would immediately come to mind. Pequegnat produced clocks for close to 40 years and left an indelible mark on Canadian culture.
Predating Arthur Pequegnat is a lesser known clock maker (or clock-makers) that made clocks between 1872 and 1884. The Canada Clock Co, and the Hamilton Clock Co. struggled over a 12 year period to put Canada on the clock-making map. In 1872 the Canada Clock Co. established itself in Whitby, Ontario (Canada) but lasted just 4 years before failing, though largely due to a devastating factory fire.
Canada Clock Company cottage clock
Out of the ashes came another attempt in 1876 and key principles including manager John Collins moved to Hamilton and set up the Hamilton Clock Company. After 4 years this new company also failed and production halted in 1880. In late 1880 one more attempt was made to establish a new company called the Canada Clock Company resurrecting the old name. It is still based in Hamilton at the old Hamilton Clock Co. factory. Success was short-lived as the company declared bankruptcy in 1884 ending a dozen years producing clocks for the Canadian market.
Although both movements and cases were made in Canada they were copies American styles
Canada Clock Company, Prince of Wales parlour clockCanada Clock Company, City of Hamilton parlour clock
I have grouped the clocks from the three companies and these are their characteristics. The most common clocks found today are the weight-driven, thirty-hour “Ogee” style, with colourful birds or flowers surrounded by a black background on the glass tablet. At least five different labels are known, four have a beaver on them. The large printed paper label was located inside the case on the lower back. Spring-driven mantel clocks with plain cases were also made with thirty-hour movements. Although both movements and cases were made in Canada they were obvious copies of American styles.
Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple clock with etched glass tabletClock label showing the Hamilton Clock Company factory
Also produced was a spring-driven “school house” wall clock.
At least sixty models of spring-driven mantel clocks are known, with both thirty-hour and eight-day movements. Most of the door tablets (Canada Clock Co.) have acid etched glass designs, unique to the two Hamilton-based companies and done in association with a local glass factory. Wall clocks are also found with the Canada Clock Company, Hamilton label.
The most desirable clocks are the ornate time and strike parlour clocks such as the City of Hamilton and Prince of Wales pictured above.
Unfortunately, a valiant attempt to grow a home-bred clock company failed miserably. However, the clocks of all three companies are highly sought after by Canadian collectors today.
A few months ago I was following a NAWCC thread on the volatility of clock prices and thought I would echo comments from some of the posters as well as my own thoughts on why clock prices are seemingly all over the map.
Market conditions and demand play a significant role. I have watched sadly as prices for many early American clocks have plummeted yet high end clocks have retained their value. Theories abound including tough economic times and the newer generation’s rejection of anything old.
As one poster said, “How is a price arrived at? It is a murky and confusing process. People use a number of metrics including a price consistently achieved at auction and their own experience buying and/or selling. Most offer clocks for 2 to 3 times what they expect to receive knowing that they will be negotiated down because it is much harder to mark something up. It is a very inexact science and a source of much debate. An object is ultimately worth what someone is willing to pay.” That’s especially true of a truly rare clock for which there is no real comparison. The term “rare” is difficult to define but rare is what most “experts” generally agree upon.
However, what was once considered “rare” based upon the largely anecdotal experience of persons whether they are dealers, collectors or auctioneers has been changed by the “eBay effect” where rarity is challenged by many examples offered for sale. It has been a real game changer.
Sperry and Shaw New York style clock for $75
Another poster said, “Many people who deal in antiques and collectibles cannot know everything.” It is especially true in the blossoming low end line of antique shops which are no different than flea markets and junk shops. Many of these stores rely on impulse buying and clock experts are not their target customer.
The poster went on to say, “These clocks are not intended be sold to a serious collector, but the impulse buyer will make the clock purchase based on any number of factors – decorative; “That steeple clock would fit perfectly on the mantel” or “We don’t care that it might not work, it is for show only” or nostalgic; “We always wanted an old clock and we can now afford it”. You cannot discount the value of being able to see the object up close, smell it, touch it and hear it tick and or strike.”
A true clock store, usually with repair services, commands high prices for their wares, but the clocks usually come with a guarantee and the comfort of knowing that it will work well and will do so for years to come. Internet stores lack the fixed and variable costs (and reputation) that a brick and mortar establishment has and, all other things being equal, can offer their product at a lower cost. However, to make a true cost comparison, one should add the cost of shipping, packaging, handling and insurance that will need to be paid by the purchaser.
Is this an antique store or a junk shop?
I cringe as I walk into some of these shops. Most antique malls that I’ve discovered charge a monthly rate plus a commission percentage that result in significant markups. I spotted a Mauthe box clock priced at $300.00. It had a marred dial, broken beveled glass panels and marked “as-is”. When I asked the dealer about a better price, his answer was to knock 10% off. I walked away shaking my head.
There is no true “standard” pricing for any vintage or antique clock. As with most objects there is a price range that most would consider reasonable. I have paid more for some clocks than they are worth but armed with increased knowledge I can now make more informed decisions in the future. Caveat Emptor is the principle which should guide every buyer. The buyer alone is responsible for checking the quality and suitability of goods before a purchase is made. Education is the key as an informed buyer will make much better choices.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
BJ writes,
“What did you do to fix the balance on the older Hermle movement? My local clock man would not repair and I love the sound of my clock. The spring has come away from the top – ok, I took out to try to adj the inner ring and dropped it. ( it was losing an hour a day.) anyhow, the fork also looks to have been bent.
Is this fixable? I’ve seen a few clocks on-line but did not know if they can be used to repair my movement easily.”
Hermle balance wheel escapement
My reply,
“Platform escapements and balance wheels are the work of watch-makers. I am not surprised your clock maker would not repair it. In my case I did not have to re-attach the spring but did have to adjust it. If the spring has pulled through the upper block, you could try threading it back in and in give it a little solder to hold it. If it is snapped off, that is much more difficult. Even if you were to get it back in, that would change the dynamics of the helical spring which is now slightly shorter. You can easily bend the fork back to where it was.
You have some options.
Find a donor movement on eBay or Craigslist. If it is exact, and the same model number the parts are interchangeable. However the fact that it is on eBay may mean that the clock is worn and you are no further ahead.
Go to a site such as Clockworks and compare your model number to the best fit for a new movement (if you are prepared to go in that direction) or
check Timesavers to see if they have a replacement balance wheel.
If you should get it up and running or if you find a donor movement you may find the above article to be of some help.”
BJ writes back,
“Thanks for the article. I wonder if I can get a watch maker to take a look. Good idea.”
There are four general categories of clocks; quartz, electro-mechanical, electric, and mechanical. Mechanical clocks, whether they are antique or vintage are the focus of our discussion on why a clock runs slow.
We are quite accustomed to the accuracy of quartz clocks which lose or gain mere milli-seconds per week. Contrast that with an era when folks were content to accept that their mechanical clock would be a minute fast or slow through the week and it was a common practice to make small adjustments over the run cycle of a clock.
In fact, a typical American spring-driven clock in properly serviced condition may gain or lose a couple of minutes per week as a norm. Weight-driven mechanical clocks that gain or lose several seconds per week are considered to be very accurate.
That said, how many mechanical devices do you know run perfectly (relatively speaking) after 120 years.
A clock runs slow for a variety of reasons.
Let’s look at some factorsand examine each one.
Environmental
Pendulum too low or too high
The pendulum is the incorrect weight
Suspension spring length is incorrect
The suspension spring is not attached correctly
Lack of lubrication
Gummed-up lubrication (over-oiled)
The balance wheel needs adjusting
A weak mainspring
Changes or alterations when servicing
Clock cycle time variance
Slipping or binding
One-weight wall clock with large pendulum bob and rate adjustment on the bottom
Ogee clock showing replacement 1 oz rate adjusting pendulum bob
Environmental
Mechanical clocks are subject to a number of environmental factors which may cause them to gain or lose speed over the course of a year. These factors include heat, cold, and humidity. Increasing the ambient temperature of a clock will slow it down from the expansion and lengthening of the pendulum unless the pendulum is a compensating type using Mercury or dissimilar metal rods. Denser air also causes the pendulum to move more slowly.
Moving a clock from sea level to a higher elevation will affect the speed of the clock.
Pendulum bob with inset rate adjustment
Pendulum too low or too high: The lower the pendulum the slower the clock will run. Many pendulum clocks can be adjusted either by a set screw at the bottom of the pendulum or by an inset screw on the pendulum. In the absence of an adjustment on the pendulum, there is a regulator on the clock face. Use the small end of a double side key and insert it into the dial face of the clock to speed or slow down the clock.
Shortening the pendulum will speed up the clock. Anything that increases the length of the pendulum will reduce the rate of the pendulum and result in a clock that will run slower.
Parts of the clock related to the pendulum
The pendulum is the incorrect weight: If the pendulum is too heavy it causes the centre of gravity to be too low, consequently the clock will run slower. Having the correct weight pendulum for your clock ensures smooth running.
Suspension spring length: Often, when a clock is repaired by a person who has limited knowledge of the effect a replacement spring will have on the running of a clock they will occasionally install an incorrect length or thickness of suspension spring. Choose the suspension spring that is correct for your clock.
Rate adjustment under the 12. Use the small end of the double-sided key to make the adjustment
Suspension spring not attached correctly: A suspension spring is located at the top of the pendulum rod and is the flexible part that allows the pendulum to swing. It is the connection between the top post and the pendulum leader. If it is not installed securely the pendulum may not swing at all or will wobble, robbing the movement of its energy.
Lack of lubrication: Pivot holes that have dried up means that there is no lubricating barrier between the pivots and their bearing holes although the movement may otherwise be very clean. Small drops of clock oil applied to the dry pivot holes will ensure the clock runs well and will have a long life. Without oil, the steel pivots will wear the brass pivot holes resulting in wheels that will not mesh properly eventually stopping the clock.
Note: a small drop of oil in each bushing hole is all that is required.
Gummed-up lubrication: When a clock runs slowly the first instinct is to apply more oil. Old blackened or greenish oil in the pivot holes is a sure sign the clock has been over-oiled. Although there is an almost immediate improvement in the running of the clock it will not be long-lasting. In no time at all the clock will begin to run slowly again as the new oil mixes with the dirt and grime in the old oil. When this occurs the oil becomes an abrasive paste resulting in exacerbated wear. The only solution is servicing which includes disassembly, cleaning of the movement, addressing wear issues, reassembly, and testing.
Balance wheel needs adjusting: Regulation of the escapement consists of sliding the two-small weights attached to the center of the balance wheel. Inwards for fast and outwards for slow. Hold the wheel and push the small adjustment “finger”. Moving the finger toward your right will be faster and vice versa. Moving the finger one dot represents a change of about 10 seconds per day. The movement will have a directional indicator with an”S” for slow and “F” for fast on the sides adjacent to the balance wheel.
Balance wheel escapement
A weak mainspring: Often the mainspring you will find in your antique clock is the original one(s). The steel used at the time the clock was made was generally of higher quality than the steel used today with some exceptions. By their very nature mainsprings become weak over time.
Weak mainspring are called “set” mainsprings. If “set”, your clock will not run a full cycle, 8 days for eight-day clocks, a full 30 hours for one-day clocks, or the designed cycle. When a spring-driven clock is brought in for a professional repair the mainsprings are often replaced.
Most properly serviced clocks with their original mainsprings will run their full cycle. Should your clock require a mainspring replacement a correct size quality American or German-made mainspring should provide years of reliable service.
Changes or alterations: Changing or altering the mechanism such as replacing a gear with an incorrect teeth count may speed up or slow down a clock. Although movement parts may appear to be similar, manufacturers often made small changes resulting in parts that may not be interchangeable with the exact movement over the years.
Clock cycle time variance: American spring-driven eight-day clocks will run slightly faster at the beginning of their cycle by providing most of their power and run more slowly through the week as the power of the mainspring unloads. A spring-driven clock that is one or two minutes fast at the beginning of the week is often a minute or two slower at the end of its cycle. This is considered normal and no adjustment is necessary. The power on a weight-driven clock, on the other hand, is constant and the loss or gain in time at the beginning of the cycle will be the same at the end assuming no wear issues are slowing it down.
Slipping or binding: If your clock is losing hours per day something in the mechanism is slipping or binding. If your clock is losing minutes per day after all adjustments are made, it is likely bushing wear or some other worn component is causing the problem. Clock repairers have a term called end shake. End shake allows freedom of lateral movement for each of the wheels between the movement plates. If the plates are tight and there is no end shake, too much resistance will slow a clock. It is why clock repairers always check for sufficient end-shake when servicing the wheels on a movement.
Final thoughts
Your situation may be unique and if it is not a clock issue covered by this article I suggest consulting an expert in clock repair. If you have little experience and choose to do your own work on an antique or vintage clock, the mistakes you make may be irreversible.
There is also a certain element of risk working with mechanical clocks as the power contained in the mainsprings may cause serious injury if not handled properly.
Knowing why your clock runs slowly is the first step in diagnosing the problem. Addressing the issue is the next step. Beyond that, periodic maintenance and servicing with quality parts is the key to a long life for your clock.
This is Part II of a two part series in which I describe the final finishing of an Arthur Pequegnat Bedford clock case.
In Part I I described the challenges of repairing the clock case and the minor repairs to the movement.
In the first part of the series I also described how I acquired this Arthur Pequegnat mantel/shelf clock during my travels to Quebec this spring.
The red oak veneered clock is complete with pendulum bob, a good label on the inside back of the access panel, coil gong and of course, the signature time and strike Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates.
Nickle-plated plates with brass bushings
It is the “Bedford” model. Online research informs me that two Bedford models were produced. This one, which is the later version, measures 9 ¾ inches high by 8 ¾ inches wide by 5 ½ inches deep. It has a silvered 6 inch dial with Arabic numerals with no Pequegnat inscription on the bottom of the dial face, spade hands surrounded by a thick brass bezel and concave base moulding. It has a passing ½ hour strike on a coiled gong.
The earlier model has a 5 inch enameled dial with stylized Arabic numerals and Pequegnat inscription on the dial face, spade hands, oak veneered case, a thinner brass bezel and convex base moulding. The case measurements are identical. The time and strike movement differs from the later model by having a ½ hour passing strike on a bell.
If the dial is a replacement, it is a Pequegnat and someone took the trouble to install larger (and correct) spade hands
I initially thought that the larger dial might make this a one-of clock but after working on the case I am inclined to believe that the dial might be a replacement. I observed two sets of screw holes, one for the larger dial and one presumably for a smaller one. A factory switch or perhaps a clock-maker replaced the dial at a later time for whatever reason. After looking at a photo of the Bedford taken at the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario (Canada) you can easily see the smaller dial and thinner bezel.
Bedford clock on display at the Canadian Clock Museum
Arthur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock, assembled, cleaned and working but before case refinishing
I do not think the larger dial overpowers the look of the clock, in fact, it gives it a more contemporary presence. If the dial is a replacement, it is a Pequegnat and someone took the trouble to install correctly sized spade hands. Unfortunately, the previous owner is unaware of the difference.
The task of clamping and gluing the case took several days as each section of the case required attention. And now to the final finish.
Gluing and clamping took time
Before the case restoration. Yes, the clock was in sad shape.
Very dirty case with years of grime and no grain visible
After giving the case a good cleaning I applied one thin coat of Minwax red oak stain to hide the bare areas and rough edges. I let the stain sit for 5 minutes and wiped off the excess with a cotton cloth. I allowed the case to thoroughly dry for 24 hours before the first sanding. For the final finish I chose Minwax PolyWipe for two reasons, one, it is simple to apply since it is easily wiped on and secondly, I wanted to avoid the amber tone of a lacquer which might result in concealing the grain. I applied six coats of PolyWipe and used 400 grit emery paper between each coat.
After cleaning, sanding and two coats of PolyWipe this is the result.
After two PolyWipe applications
I am pleased that the grain came up very nicely, reminding me of what it must have looked like many years ago.
Finished clock, after 6 coats of PolyWipe
After six thin coats of PolyWipe the result is a revitalized finish that is durable, attractive and will last for years.
The brass door has me puzzled. What I thought was a broken hinge was actually folded into the bezel and soldered.
7/8 inch hinge is soldered back into the bezel
Why? I am reluctant to remove the solder because I risk breaking the glass by bending the retaining tabs. They are in very tight. As it stands the glass door will friction fit onto the dial bezel. Not the best but it will do for now. I will give it a second look, perhaps I can de-solder that hinge without removing the glass.
A project that is well worth the time and effort. It is always satisfying saving an old clock and bringing it back to life.
The Tempus Fugit Clock Company must be doing exceptionally well. Tempus Fugit clocks are everywhere, online for-sale sites, eBay, Kijiji and the like. Type “Tempus Fugit” in the eBay search box and dozens of wall clocks, grandfather clocks and mantel clocks will pop up.
Not only can the Tempus Fugit clock-makers pump out quality clocks they have also maintained a level of quality that is unmatched in the industry
The other day I found this 32″ clock (next photo) for the paltry sum of $30. What a deal! A truly inexpensive entry point for an exquisitely designed Tempus Fugit clock made by some of the worlds foremost craftsmen that you can add to your collection today.
A Tempus Fugit clock on an online for-sale site for only $30
Tempus Fugit clock-makers pump out quality clocks and they have also maintained a level of quality that is unmatched in the industry.
The factory is located in Timeville, Canada. I had a chance to visit the factory this spring and was able to converse with the owners, I said to Mr. Tempus and Mr. Fugit, “Your building could use a paint job”, to which Mr Fugit replied, “Don’t worry about it, clock-making is our strength”
Tempus Fugit Clock Co. factory in Timeville Canada
They graciously permitted me to install C and AA batteries in some of the movements on the factory floor. What a thrill! I really got a charge out of it. The 40,000 sq ft 400 sq ft factory floor is abuzz with activity. Placards of inspiration are everywhere such as “Time is on your side”, Time marches on” and “Time Flies”. The company also makes mechanical clocks. Here, a worker has all the movement parts laid out prior to assembly.
Putting it all together at Tempus Fugit
Gustav Becker and E. Howard might be great names in the clock world but Tempus Fugit always rises above them.
Anyway, back to repairing and restoring clocks. As they say at Tempus Fugit, “Time Flies” ……..or is it “Time Flees”?
I acquired an Arthur Pequegnat mantel/shelf clock during my travels to Quebec this spring. The red oak veneered clock is complete with original hands, pendulum bob, a good label on the inside back of the access panel, coil gong and of course, the signature time and strike Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates.
Signature Pequegnat nickle-plated steel plates
It is known as the “Bedford” model. Online research tells me that two Bedford models were produced. This one, which I believe is the later edition, measures 9 ¾ inches high by 8 ¾ inches wide by 5 ½ inches deep. It has a silvered 6 inch dial with Arabic numerals with no Pequegnat inscription on the bottom of the dial face, spade hands surrounded by a thick brass bezel and concave base moulding. It has a passing ½ hour strike on a coiled gong. The earlier model has a 5 inch enameled dial with more stylized Arabic numerals and Pequegnat inscription on the dial face, spade hands, oak veneered case, a thinner brass bezel and convex base moulding. The case measurements are identical. The time and strike movement differs from the later model by having a ½ hour passing strike on a bell.
There is a good label on the inside of the access door which says, “Bedford, eight-day mantel clock, The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co., Kitchener, Ontario, Canada”.
The label is in good condition
The movement is not marked. Though many Arthur Pequegnat movements were stamped with the maker’s mark it is not unusual to find one without one. This edition was likely manufactured in the Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) plant between 1925 and 1930.
With click fixed the clock is tested
The only issue with the movement is the time side mainspring function which, as the previous owner explained, could not be wound with a key. Damaged top veneer and split-open side trim pieces tell me that the clock had accidentally fallen. The impact point appears to be the very top front of the clock. As a result of the impact the front panel had separated from the main part of the case, leaving a gap of about 1/8th of an inch. It also had a broken access door catch.
Damaged veneer sustained during a fall, veneer was later pushed back in place
At first I focused my attention on the movement and why the time side mainspring would not wind. It was, as I suspected, a missing click spring. The click is a pawl which engages the ratchet wheel to hold the power of the mainspring or the weight. It is moveable and connected to the mainspring by means of a rivet. The click spring is a piece of steel or brass wire which is connected to the click and seats the click in the ratchet wheel.
I had a supply of steel click springs and fashioned one to fit the click. The click, rivet and the ratchet wheel were in otherwise good condition. While the mainsprings was restrained with clamps I postioned the click spring in place applying a little solder to ensure that it remained fixed. An older similar repair occurred on the strike side with solder holding that click in place. A weak point of the movement, perhaps.
A little solder to keep the click spring in place
I inspected the movement for wear and discovered that it had been serviced previously. The solder on the strike side click was certainly a clue but I also noticed that some bushings had been replaced, not unusual given the age of the clock. Brass bushings were punched into the steel plates at the factory. I could see that newer bushings were installed in at least three locations.
There is no lateral movement in the gears as such lateral movement would indicate bushing or pivot wear. There is no evidence of ovalized, enlarged or mis-shapen bushing holes and the gears are meshing well. The movement is clean and free of dirt and debris and I do not feel that a full cleaning is warranted at this point. There is no excess blackened oil; the oil in the bushing holes had simply dried up. I applied clock oil to the bushings, wound both mainsprings and after days of running the movement is keeping excellent time.
With the movement out of the case, repaired and in the testing phase, I focused next on the condition of the oak veneered case. Many of the joints had separated due to the impact I mentioned earlier. Hide glue would have been used originally and could be used for case repair. I have medium strength pearl hide glue, not strong enough for this application. High strength is required to bring the trim pieces together to ensure a good long-lasting and tight fit. This is one of those occasions when a modern glue is an acceptable alternative. Yellow carpenters glue has a bonding power of two tons and I chose this type of glue for the repairs.
Each section had to be clamped for 24 hours and only one section could be worked on at a time. The result is a very time-consuming and complicated process lasting several days.
I used three clamps for one repair. Because the impact point was at the very top I had to push the sides in with a clamp while at the same time bring the front panel into the main part of the case using two clamps adjacent to each other. You can see the clamping method I employed in the next photo.
Using three clamps to bring the sides together and the front section into the case
The side base trim pieces were also split open and had to be clamped in place as you can see in the next photo.
Side trim pieces clamped
Bringing the sides of the case together resulted in raising the damaged veneer, consequently several small pieces of top veneer had to be pushed back into place. Using carpenters glue combined with an “elaborate” weight system I went about with the repair. Using a toothpick I applied carpenters glue under the veneer pieces, wiped off the excess with a wet cloth and used a block with a hole drilled to accommodate a toothpick employing enough pressure to push the small veneer pieces into place. It looks odd but it works.
Toothpick and wood piece to push the veneer in
A degreaser was used to strip years of blackened dirt/grease/grime on the case and once cleaned the original grain in the red oak veneer is now exposed to its former beauty. The case will either need a layer or two of lacquer or a more modern finish such as PolyWipe. I will cover this aspect of the restoration/repair in Part II.
Using Brasso I cleaned up years of tarnish on the brass bezel giving it a new life. I also polished the arbour grommets. The silvered dial face is in very good condition and I left that as-is.
Bezel cleaned up
I fashioned a new door catch out of a worn Sessions click.
Broken door catch was repaired using an old worn Sessions click
With the movement repaired and the successful clamping and gluing of the case the next phase is the final finishing. I am pleased that I am inching closer to bringing this clock back to life and can add it to my modest collection of Arthur Pequegnat clocks.
While antiquing some time ago I came across boxes of clock movements in a shop. Some were fairly new though I found a Gilbert time and strike date stamped 1906 which piqued my interest. In the box was the key, the coil gong, clock hands, pendulum and movement mounting screws. A movement without a case. Hmm, interesting! Here’s what I’m thinking.
You dig up an old clock from the basement. It was your mothers and you were immediately reminded of the soothing sound of the clock when you were a kid. Wouldn’t it be nice to get that old clock running again. You fiddle with it and despite your best efforts you just cannot get the thing going. Why not bring it to the local clock-maker? He takes a look at it and explains that it is worn out. It will cost much more than the clock is worth to repair it, he says. But there is a solution. Take the works out and replace the movement with a reliable quartz one and all for less than half the cost of a repair. It sure would be nice to get that old clock running again and who would know that a new quartz movement is inside. The clock-maker takes the movement out, asks the customer if they want it, puts it in a box on a shelf and uses it for parts on the next clock. I’ll bet I’m close.
It is a Gilbert time and strike with a passing bell strike on the half hour. It has a distinctive 24 hour count wheel meaning that the count wheel rotates just once every 24 hours, each half with slots for 12 hours.
Gilbert time and strike date stamped 1906
It sat in a box in my office for several months. The other day I placed the movement on a test stand to determine its condition, wound the time side and BANG, the mainspring blew apart. A nice clean break! Luckily it did not take me or any other parts with it. The break was so far from the loop end that the mainspring was not salvageable. You can see the snapped section of the left mainspring in the photo above. Determined to see this movement in running condition I ordered a new spring from a clock supply house.
Top plate removed
When I dis-assembled the movement it was worn but repairable. However, all pivots were in very good condition except one, the second wheel on the time side, front plate. It was worn at the shoulder as you can see in the next photo.
Unusual wear on second wheel, time side
Was this enough to stop the clock and why just one? Perhaps a combination of factors. It is the second wheel and under the most axial load or probably a contaminated pivot hole with enough embedded detritus that would have ground away at the pivot shoulder.
There are only two solutions, fashion a new pivot or turn down the pivot and polish it. Fashioning a new pivot is a lot of work. However, there is enough steel left after it is turned down to give me a strong pivot. I chose the second option and installed a new bushing to fit the new pivot size which is much easier than re-pivoting. I put the wheel on a lathe and ground the pivot down to the size I wanted and then gave it a polish.
New bushing had to be punched to stay in place
The second issue was an old bushing that had been installed at some point in the clocks life. I drilled out the old bushing knowing that the replacement bushing would be loose. Alas, it slipped out too easily. The solution, two punches adjacent to the bushing to secure it in place. Punching a brass movement is rarely a good idea but this was a solution that was appropriate to the situation.
I installed two more bushings on the strike side second wheel back plate and third wheel front plate and one more on the time side, second wheel, back plate.
With the new mainspring installed and the repairs completed, it was time to assemble the clock and test it. I cannot count the number of times when I have re-assembled an American time and strike only to find that the strike setup was slightly out of adjustment. You know you have a problem when the clock strikes until the mainspring winds down. Placing the lever in the maintenance cam while the count lever is directly into the deep slot and hoping that the warning wheel pin locks at just the correct moment is always fun. I have cursed a few times when I cannot get it right. In this case it was first time lucky, the stop pin was in the right location on my first try.
On the test stand, bell is now fixed in place
As an aid in re-assembly toothpicks remind me of the location of the bell lever
The clock has been running but does not seem to be able to get past 5 days of an 8-day cycle. I realize that there are some things I need to address before I get this clock running a full cycle but I have other projects on the go. Since this movement does not have a case I took it off the test stand, put it in a box on a shelf, included some notes, and will address it at a later date when and if I ever get a case.
Notes about the movement reminding me what needs to be done
So, I’ll wait for that illusive case but in the meantime into storage it goes.
I have been to Middleton, Nova Scotia many times. I have even passed the Macdonald Consolidated School where the clock museum is located without realizing what treasures lay inside. The clock museum represents a small section of the museum, the remainder of which is dedicated to the history of the area.
In the Spring of 2018 my wife and I set off on one of our many mini staycations. On my agenda was a visit to this museum and I was not disappointed.
Macdonald Museum main clock exhibit area
Holbeck made tall-case clock
It certainly ranks as the best exhibit in Atlantic Canada
Off highway 1 on School Street, Middleton, Nova Scotia stands the Macdonald museum. I had some expectations because I had been to two well respected clock museums, the NAWCC museum in Columbia PA. and the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario. Though not on the same scale as these two, it certainly ranks as the best exhibit in Atlantic Canada.
The Annapolis Valley Macdonald Museum is home to the Nova Scotia Museum’s collection of over 150 antique clocks and watches. This permanent exhibit showcases items collected by the late Norman Phinney and was one of the primary reasons for establishing the Macdonald Museum. Many of the clocks are in working condition. There are a wide variety of clocks and watches on display, with some dating back to the late 17th century. Anyone interested in clocks would do well to see this exhibit – one of the best in Eastern Canada.
The museum is well laid out with enough information on each of the clocks on display to satisfy the general public and clock enthusiasts alike. Each display highlights its significance as an important development in horological history. We were alone as we walked though the main exhibit area and an adjacent room which contained a fascinating old clock-maker’s shop and a well laid out and informative interactive display on how mechanical clocks work.
Clock-maker’s shop
How mechanical clocks work
At least one example from the Baird Clock Co. of Montreal and five examples from the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. of Berlin (now Kitchener) Ontario were on display including the Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1, that the company once advertised as “The finest clock made in America”.
Baird clock from Montreal
Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1
None of the clocks were running, however. Though the clocks appeared to be in excellent condition, the sound of ticking clocks make for a more authentic experience. All other clock museums make a practice of running some clocks on a rotating basis at any given time.
At the entrance to the clock collection there is a simple plaque dedicated to Norman D. Phinney. Learning more about Norman D. Phinney, his contribution to the Macdonald Museum and the story of how the museum received his clock collection would add to the experience.
Norman D Phinney
If you are a clock fan or even if you only have a casual interest in the world of horology, this small clock museum may surprise you
Though perhaps not within the scope of Phinney’s original collection, examples from the Canada Clock Co. and the Hamilton Clock Co. or more peddlers clocks from Nova Scotia and New Brunswick would have provided an enhanced Canadian horological perspective.
Steeple or sharp Gothic clocks
However, these are minor quibbles and should not detract you from appreciating the high quality of the exhibits which contained British, American, French and Canadian examples or the many styles that included Pillar and Scroll, tall-case, shelf, beehive, steeple, drop octagons, mantel, alarm clocks and Ogee clocks, all of which were well represented.
If you are a clock fan or even if you only have a casual interest in the world of horology, this small clock museum may surprise you.
Oh, and while there, visit the rest of this fascinating museum.
As regular readers know I am a fan of Arthur Pequegnat clocks not just because they were made in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada but they are attractive, well made and hold their value well (in Canada!).
Eddy’s photo of the clock
I have had clocks given to me in the past but this was a rather unusual situation. As readers know I publish at least seven or eight articles a month in order to provide interesting content on all aspects of mechanical clocks. I publish a regular feature called Tick Talk Tuesday in which I profile the mail I receive from readers. The mail is private email and not comments after a blog article. I receive many emails you will not find on my blog. Some people prefer writing to me privately and that is perfectly fine.
I received one such email some time ago from Eddy who lives in the Quebec City area (Province of Quebec, Canada). Eddy was researching my blog and discovered that I admired and collected Canadian-made Arthur Pequegnat clocks. He wondered if I would have an Arthur Pequegnat clock added to my collection.
Because it was an Arthur Pequegnat I was immediately interested but I did not expect a reply. To my surprise Eddy answered with five photos of the clock from various angles. It was a mantel clock in pretty rough shape and after seeing his photos I was still curious even though it likely required a lot of work to restore it.
Top of the clock
In his email Eddy explained that he was having serious health issues and was taking stock of his life. He had a number of antique and vintage items that his father and grandfather had left him and he felt they should be passed on to someone who would appreciate having them. As Eddy explained, “My father had that clock as a trade against work done for people he helps with their house and lawn chores. He gave it to me since he’s got too many, just like my grand-father did. He was okay with me parting with it.”
I wrote back and told him that a meeting was indeed possible. We would be passing through the Quebec City area in the next few days on our way to our cottage in Quebec to open it up for the summer. We (my wife and I) had even planned to stay in that area for the night. We could stop by to have a look at the clock. Eddy then provided me with his address and telephone number. A meeting day and time was set up.
After nine hours of driving we arrived at his door. He invited us in and we spent a very pleasant two hours getting to know each other, discussing my collection of clocks, talking about the clock in question, his fathers hobby of searching out old antiques and finally, matters related to his struggle with a serious illness.
broken brass hinge
I was a little confused. Was he was actually giving me the clock or did he expect money in return so I decided to ask him straight out. No, he said, you can have it. he then brought out three other clocks to the kitchen table, a cottage clock, a steeple clock and a swinger. He asked me if I wanted those as well and I thanked him for the offer but declined. While they were very nice clocks I felt awkward taking all of them for nothing. So, we left with just one clock.
We walked out the door with clock in hand and for the next hour of our drive we talked about Eddy and his gift of an Arthur Pequegnat clock.
The clock was complete with original hands, pendulum bob, coil gong and of course, the signature Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates. The only visible sign of an issue with the movement was the time side mainspring which, as Eddy explained, could not be wound with a key. Damaged veneer, side trim pieces splitting open was clear evidence that at some point the clock had been dropped or fallen hard. The impact point was the very top of the clock. Yes, it was in rough shape!
A challenge to repair? Yes, but I graciously accepted the clock knowing that I would have to spend several hours putting it right.
Both sides and the trim front were coming apart
Thanks to Eddy I am now the new owner of an Arthur Pequegnat, Bedford model that I will add to my collection of four other Pequegnat clocks. In a later post I will detail the repairs to this fine Canadian made clock.
Eddy suggested that instead of offering him money that we donate to a charity and so a cheque went to the Canadian Cancer Society. I have never given names to my clocks but this one will always be called Eddy in honour of a individual who felt strongly that a family treasure should go to an appreciative owner.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
GGs Forestville Mantel clock
GG writes: “Hello there,,,I was wondering if you know much about my mantle clock and maybe it’s value?
I have attached some photos!”
My reply: “Thanks for coming to my blog. That is one of the nicest mantel clock cases I have seen on a Forestville and it appears to be in good shape.
Forestville is a Canadian Company based out of Toronto. They went out of business in 1979. They did not make their own movements instead sourcing them from England, France, the US and Germany though they made their own clock cases.
GGs clock showing German made movement and pendulum bob
You may or may not know that Forestville was called the Blackforest Clock company prior to WWII. So, you have a post war clock made in the late 1940s or early 50s. Later on In the 1950s Forestville went from using pendulums in their clocks to balance wheels (no pendulum). Forestville also sourced German movements exclusively after the war. Your movement (the brass works) was likely made by Mauthe or Hermle, both well known and well respected German companies.
You have what is known as a time and strike Bim-Bam clock. It strikes the respective hour and once on the half hour but makes a distinctive “Bim-Bam” sound as a result of one hammer striking one rod while the other two strikes two rods simultaneously.
Unfortunately there are thousands of similar clocks and Forestville clocks are not particularly distinctive but a clock such as this in good running condition might fetch about $100.”
GG writes back to explain that the movement is an Enfield from England which stands to reason if it was made immediately after the Second War.
The clock is a 1937 Blackforest Royal Tour commemorative edition shelf clock with an 8-day time-only “plate” clock movement. Plate clock movements are so-called because they were typically used on kitchen clocks with Dutch Delft plates such as this one in the next photo.
Delft Plate Clock from Forestville
The movement is likely German and could have been made by a number of companies. There are no stamps or markings on the movement to give any indication of the maker. Canadian companies such as the Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto (the Forestville Clock Company after the war) imported German movements before the Second World War and installed them in Canadian made cases.
Grimy movement prior to cleaning
This clock had been happily running for about a year and then last week it suddenly stopped after a winding. I nudged the pendulum in an effort to make it go, checked to see if it was in beat and level but no luck. I nudged the pendulum a few more times, left it for a day or so, tried it again and still no luck. I was at the point of disassembling the movement to investigate the problem. Two days later I wound it tight and gave the pendulum a push and it sprang to life. I think I know what happened.
I thought I did a good job of servicing the movement including the mainspring over a year ago but apparently not well enough. You may have heard the expression, “you overwound the clock so that’s why it stopped”. There is a grain of truth in the expression because if you wind the spring till it winds no further the mainspring is at it tightest. If there are dirt, grime and rust on the mainspring the mainspring will actually cease in place, hence the clock stops. I believe this is what occurred in this case. Although it is running now it will need to be properly cleaned. In the meantime, I will let it run and see if it completes its full 8-day cycle.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible response to your question
AM writes, “I am writing in hopes you can help me figure out how to safely set and wind my clock !
It looks pretty much identical to this one of yours I found online. Exactly same roman numerals. Forestville name in gold appliqué at top. GERMANY appliqué near the VI at bottom. Two key holes. Wing shaped box. Mine has darker brown wood glossy, and only one gold trim line. Same little feet. It has a silver colour key. I tentatively tried winding the left side clockwise, and it wound, but seemed tight. So I only wound it twice. Scared to try the left side. Please let me know if you would – what each wind is for, and whether to go clockwise or counterclockwise. Thanks in advance for any clues you can give me.”
Roman numerals, Forestville name
Over winding a clock is a myth
My response, “Hi, These Forestville clocks have German movements. The movements are quite robust and will last for years. The left side is the strike side and the right side is the time side. You should be able to wind each side as tight as possible. Over winding a clock is a myth. If the clock does not run after you have wound each arbour to the limit, the springs are rusty and have seized the clock. However you should be able to safely wind each side several turns. The strike side will not function unless the time side is wound fully. You can get a feel for how the clock is wound. These clocks wind clockwise and the strike side might be a little tighter than the time side, I know mine is. The clock sounds like an old wristwatch because it has a hairspring or a floating balance wheel escapement not the usual pendulum ( I gather yours is the same). Anyway, do not be afraid of your clock. Wind it and enjoy it.
AM writes back and says, “Hello and thank-you for your reply. I took the plunge and wound each side about 4-5 X. No ticking as yet ! It must be seized at you said…Not sure what to do now cuz we live in the XXXXXXX and I doubt a clock expert nearby (within 300 km). Prince George is 3 hr drive west, and Grande Prairie Alberta 2.5 hr east. Will start asking around for sure. It is quite funky and reminds me of my Aunty Jane… so I will use as décor for the interim.”
My reply, “Open the access door. Locate the escapement at the top of the movement. If it is exposed give the wheel a little push. If it is in a plastic enclosure, tap on the plastic a few times. That might be enough to free the escapement. If it runs you have power through the clock. If it does not your power issue might be elsewhere i.e. seized springs, bent wheels etc. Unfortunately a repair would be far more than the clock is worth but that is a decision you will have to make.”
Hairspring escapement in my clock
AM managed to get the clock working but it will not strike despite plenty of whirring.
Balance wheel or floating balance escapement
Closer look at the floating balance escapement
AM says, “Well now I’m thinking maybe I can fix the chime myself ? Particularly with your help. So this one last attempt will show you how it sounds. I also need to know:
During the weekly wind, if I just do not wind the chime… will it stop the click and whirr without affecting the clock time?
Here’s what I see at the back during non-chime time – one hammer is a ‘two in one’, and it was up, but the one at the back was down touching the rod. So I tried lifting it, and realized that the little black metal stopper that holds the ‘two’ works well, but the front stopper wouldn’t hold the back hammer. I gently bent that front black stopper (horrors? !) so it will hold it up. But still no chime.
Then I decided to take a wee video of the strike during chime time. At 11:00 that morning, this is what happened in the back of the clock:
It seems to me by the length of whirring, that the chime is out of whack in that sense also. Not sure tho how much whirr = one chime.”
I took a look at the video and the strike rods are way too high above the rods.
My reply, “There are three hammers. Your clock is not a chiming clock – it is a striking clock. A chiming clock makes a musical sound and typically the musical sound is the Westminster chime on the quarter hour. You have what is called a striking “Bim-bam” clock. The rear hammer hits first followed by the two front hammers to make that bim-bam sound. The hammers should be just above the strike rods. Yours are too high to strike the rods therefore you are not getting the sound of the strike. Lower the rods by slightly bending them past the rods to the side and bend them so that they are just barely above the rods leaving a gap of about 1/8 inch. They should now work as designed. I can only surmise that someone in the past bent the rods upwards to quiet the clock.”
AMs Forestville clock, a very attractive Art Deco clock
AM replies, “Ok! Well that makes sense, and even the bending of the hammers. I can hear and see my Uncle Bill … first swearing, then getting in there and bending those hammers! He was dear soul really. Thanks for all your help”.
Canadian clock collectors are passionate about Arthur Pequegnat clocks. In private sales and online for-sale sites most sellers are knowledgeable enough to know that they are very desirable. A Pequegnat will sell for many times more than a comparable mantel clock, that is, in Canada.
Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe model mantel clock
The Arthur Pequegnat clock company had an illustrious albeit short history
The Simcoe is my fourth Arthur Pequegnat clock. It is very similar in dimensions and style to the Jewel. Whereas the Jewel is basically a unadorned box the Simcoe has a piecrust dial bezel, claw feet on each corner and lions head handles on each side. It has a coil gong for the hour strike and a bell for the half-hour passing strike.
To collectors it is referred to as a”Berlin” clock. Although it is impossible to date Pequegnat clocks precisely the name Berlin distinguishes clocks made before 1917 and those made after and up to 1941 when the factory finally shut its doors. Clocks made prior to 1917 were inscribed “Berlin”, Ontario on the dial face since Kitchener was known as Berlin until midway through World War I. From 1854 until 1912 it was the town of Berlin and City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916. Because the name Berlin had a negative association with the war against Germany the city administration chose the name Kitchener. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario (Canada).
Time and strike movement with steel plates, a common feature with Pequegnat clocks
The Arthur Pequegnat clock company had an illustrious albeit short history. Arthur Pequegnat, a watchmaker by training, was born in Switzerland in 1851. Arthur immigrated to Berlin, Ontario Canada in 1874 with his wife, parents, brothers and sisters; a grand total of 18 family members.
Arthur Pequegnat clocks such as a simple mantel clock you see here can command hundred of dollars in Canada
By the late 1870’s Arthur was operating a jewelry store and watch repair in Southern Ontario. By the middle 1880’s Arthur and his brother Paul were operating a shop in Berlin, Ontario. After ten years the brothers went their separate ways, both operating successful jewelry shops in Southern Ontario.
In 1897 Arthur expanded his Berlin jewelry shop to include the manufacture of Bicycles. However, by 1904, with the decrease in the demand for Bicycles, Arthur began to re-focus on the clock industry, by manufacturing his own clock movements at his Berlin Bicycle Manufacturing plant. Arthur obviously visualized a profit in clock making as many clocks at the time were imported from the United States. At first the wooden clock cases were made by local furniture makers, however in time he manufactured his own clock cases. Although the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company was widely regarded as the only true Canadian clock company, lesser known companies such as the Hamilton Clock Company and the Canada Clock Company, though not as successful, predated it.
The Simcoe is a relatively nondescript clock. I passed by it in the antique store without realizing that it was a Pequegnat. My wife spotted it and I returned to take a second look. Sure enough, a Pequegnat!
The yellow oak case is in very good condition with one or two small scratches and a chip just above the top of the bezel. The dial pan has had an ugly repair, there are two brass tabs at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock protruding though the front of the dial.
Piecrust bezel
The dial face has some crackling but is otherwise in good condition. The piecrust bezel is in very nice shape as are the claw feet and lions heads.
Lions head on case side
The movement looks very clean with little evidence of wear. There is an inscription on the back dated Jan 10, 1970. It was likely serviced on that date. In any event it does not appear to have had much running since then. Unfortunately, there is no label.
Ornate front feet
The movement was taken out of its case, inspected for wear and found to be in very good condition. The movement was oiled, returned it to its case, the beat was set and it is running strongly. The clock will be inspected in one years time to determine if servicing is required.
This weeks goodwill find. It was 10.00 but it had a blue sticker on blue tag day so it cost 5.00
Unknown mantel clock
Clock owner posted his excellent find on a popular social media site. Here is the conversation.
Person 1, “Can’t lose at that price. Hermle movement I presume.”
Clock owner, “Yes with a quartz battery operated time train. The gong and chime are wind up”.
Person 2, “Cool. What do you mean ?? Pic of movement ?”
Person 3, “Yes, how does that work? very curious.”
No answer from clock owner and no photos of movement but there are two arbour holes.
In defense of the seller it could be electro-mechanical as Hermle made a few such clocks in the 1950-60s. Any thoughts or ideas? I think it has been converted.
Clocks have been more than just timekeepers throughout history; they are reflections of art, culture, and technological innovation. Whether for practical use or decorative appeal, clock styles have evolved to match the tastes, craftsmanship, and technologies of their times. Here’s a look at some of the most iconic and varied clock styles.
The clock is an instrument designed to keep and indicate time. It is one of the oldest human inventions. The clock has evolved through the ages from sundials in ancient times to early tower clocks of the 14th century weight-driven clocks and finally spring-driven clocks from the 1840s to the 1970s.
The world of mechanical clocks encompasses a wide variety of styles, and distinguishing between them can often be confusing—such as understanding the difference between a shelf clock and a mantel clock. In this article, I’ll navigate through these terms and highlight the most common styles or types, using examples from my own clock collection to illustrate them.
Mantel Clock
Many auction sites and even professional websites use the word mantle. The correct terminology is “mantel”. A mantle is a shawl or coat worn by women, an important role passed on from one person to another or the earth’s crust. A mantel is the top framing of a fireplace or a shelf above a fireplace opening.
A mantel clock is designed to fit on top of a fireplace or shelf. A mantel clock can be time only, time and strike, or a chiming clock. Generally, if there are 2 winding arbours it is a time and strike clock, if the clock has 3 winding arbours is it a chiming clock that is, it will play a tune on the quarter hours, the most common being the Westminster chime.
Mantel clocks might also be referred to as shelf clocks or buffet clocks.
Kitchen Clock
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock
Kitchen clocks are often referred to as gingerbread clocks or parlour clocks. At times, it can be difficult to differentiate between a kitchen clock and a parlour clock. Gingerbread clocks are distinctive because their designs are typically created by steam-pressing the wooden front face. However, some clocks, like the one above, are made using a powered cutting saw but are still classified as kitchen clocks. Additionally, some of these clocks included alarm mechanisms. The terms gingerbread, kitchen, and parlour are often used interchangeably.
Another type of kitchen clock is shown below. This is an 8-day time-only delft wall clock made by Forestville.
Delft Clock from ForestvilleE. N. Welch Whittier model
A parlour clock is generally considered more ornate than a kitchen clock, although it may still be referred to as a kitchen clock. It is placed in front hallways, entryways, and so on. The designs are always cut and there may be finials, a mercury-filled pendulum or very ornate design, garish trim pieces, and a decorative tablet.
Vienna Regulator
Gustav Becker two-weight Vienna regulator
There are many styles but most are of the single-weight or two-weight variety. The definition of a Vienna regulator is always open to debate but the consensus among collectors is that they are weight-driven, made in Austria/Germany, ornate in design, have porcelain dials, decorative crowns, large pendulums, and finials on the top and bottom.
The broad definition of Vienna Regulator includes those that are spring-driven. Though not defined as “regulators” it is acceptable among collectors to refer to them as a Vienna style.
Cottage Clock
Canada Clock Co Hamilton Cottage Extra
Sometimes called a mantel clock or a shelf clock, they are usually diminutive in size to occupy a smaller space. They are found in bedrooms and kitchens and are sturdily built since they are often designed to be portable. They come in time only, time and strike, or may have an alarm function.
Carriage Clock
French Carriage Clock
Carriage clocks are portable and were very popular around the turn of the 20th century. French-made carriage clocks are more collectible and fetch generally higher prices although American ones can be quite desirable. Carriage clocks are designed to be portable and are time-only but some are time and strike (with a repeater function) while others may have an alarm function.
Crystal Regulator
Ansonia Crystal Regulator
Crystal Regulator clocks are identified by a brass case with 4 crystals or glass panels. Porcelain dials, Roman or Arabic numerals, ornate in design but sometimes quite garish. Most are 10-12 inches in height though some are smaller. Makers are American and French though French crystal regulators are called four-glass clocks and tend to have higher value. Distinctive by their mercury or faux mercury pendulums. Some have visible Brocot escapements and the time and strike movements are always visible.
Cuckoo Clock
Cuckoo clock
These clocks are pendulum-regulated and make an automated sound like a cuckoo when it strikes the hours. Some can be very intricate with several animated characters. Desirable ones are antiques from the Black Forest region of Germany. Modern ones are generally frustrating to repair, cheaply built, and are poor timekeepers.
Lantern Clock
Converted lantern clock
A lantern clock is a type of antique weight-driven wall clock, shaped like a lantern. They were the first type of clock widely used in private homes. They probably originated before 1500 but only became common after 1600 and in Britain, around 1620. They became obsolete in the 19th century. The one pictured above has been converted into a fusee movement.
Alarm Clock
Baby Ben alarm clock with seconds hand
Alarm clocks are wound once per day and designed to do two things, wake you and display the time. They are cheap, and are average timekeepers but have long-lasting and reliable movements.
Desk Clock
Kienzle World Time clock
These sat on fancy office desks or credenzas in office locations. They are either time-only or time-and-strike. Most were time-only to minimize distractions in the office environment. Some are very attractive and have unique designs and are more decorative than utilitarian. This one above is called a World Time Clock by Kienzle.
Wall Clock
German Mauthe Box clock
A wall clock is broadly defined as any clock designed to be hung on a wall, making it a practical and visible timekeeping solution. Wall clocks come in various styles, from simple and functional designs to highly decorative pieces. This one by Mauthe is often described as a German “box” clock which became popular after the First World War and made into the 1940s.
Schoolhouse Clock
Ansonia schoolhouse clock
They are known as schoolhouse clocks because they hung in many schoolrooms in North America. Usually distinctive by their octagon shape and short or long drop feature with a glass door displaying a swinging pendulum. Many thousands were made; they had cheap mass-produced softwood cases and robust movements. Most were time-only though some were time and strike and others even included a calendar function.
When they were marketed years ago they were not called “schoolhouse clocks” but rather, clocks made for the schoolroom.
Novelty Clock
Chairman Mao Zetong waving as the clock ticks
These clocks are designed for the tourist trade with interesting features. In the case of the above clock, a smiling Mao Zedong has his little red book in hand and is waving “to the masses” as the clock ticks.
Ogee Clock
Waterbury OG clock
It is so-called because of the curved molded wood case. It might also be referred to as an OG clock. The design originated in the United States in the 1830s, distinguished by a case (usually pine) the front outer edges of which are curved into an S-shape (Ogee). This shape is formed by the union of a convex and a concave line. A mass-produced variant of the shelf clock, the Ogee clock typically stands about 30 inches (75 cm) high and is usually weight-driven. The movements were generally made of brass (earlier ones were made of wood) and ran for 30 hours or eight days. This is a 30-hour weight-driven version from the 1870s.
Tall Case Clock
Ridgeway Hamilton Country, Westminster chime
Tall case clocks are known by various names depending on the region. They are referred to as tall-case clocks in American terminology, long-case clocks in British terminology, hall clocks in Canada, and sometimes as floor clocks. However, the most commonly used term is “grandfather clock.”
They are usually weight-driven, with the weights on chains or cables, and are distinctive by their obvious height. They are always 6 feet or over but can be as high as 8 feet high (1.8 to 2.4 meters). They often feature elaborately carved ornamentation on the hood (or bonnet), the frames, the throat, and the dial or clock face. Older ones have 30-hour movements but all modern grandfather clocks run on an 8-day cycle.
Smaller clocks are called grandmother and granddaughter clocks. They are under 6 feet.
Anniversary Clock
Kundo standard size 400-day clock
These clocks are also called torsion clocks or 400-day clocks. 400-day clocks are torsion driven having a long suspension spring to which a weight oscillates back and forth. Typically these clocks operate at 8 beats per minute and run for long cycles on a single wind, up to 400 days. These clocks were popular as wedding gifts or gifts to mark special occasions. They are relatively simple to repair but can be finicky to set up. The newer quartz clocks are very accurate but do not replace the charm and curiosity of the older mechanical ones.
Some might call them purely decorative.
Tower Clock
Tower clock in Holguin, Cuba
In the early 14th century large mechanical clocks began to appear in the towers of Italian cities. There is no record of any working models preceding these public clocks that were weight-driven and regulated by verge-and-foliot escapements. They are referred to as Turret clocks in the UK.
In conclusion, while there are sub-categories for some of the clocks described above, this overview provides a general understanding of the commonly used terms. Having this knowledge can be especially helpful when shopping for a special gift or identifying the style of clock you may have in your possession.
What happens if you service a clock and let it sit without running it? What happens if the clock is not run and stored for a year, does the oil dry out? Is it better to run the clock once a month to get the oil moving? If the clock is sitting for a year should I refresh the oil before running the clock? These are all good questions. I will attempt to answer each one.
Unfortunately, most people let their clocks run until they start to show signs of needing servicing
It largely depends on where the clock is located. Environment should always be a consideration in whether to run your clock constantly, or not. Is it in a smoke and dust free environment? Can the humidity be controlled? Are there pets? Pet hair can find its way into the strangest places.
Mauthe mantel clock with Westminster chime
I like to check all of my clocks on a 2 year schedule. If all looks well, I may not do anything except look it over and add oil where necessary. I might repeat this for 4, even 6 years before signs of wear show up. Or, there may be signs of wear at the first check at 2 years. If wear is evident, I might note it and monitor it several months later and address the wear at that time. This approach will keep your collection in good shape with a minimum amount of work. If there are pets in the home you may want to inspect your clocks at more regular intervals. If the clock is sitting for a year without running should I refresh the oil before running the clock? Yes, but only if there is no or very little evidence of oil in the pivot holes.
However, a clock that is allowed to sit dormant for one year should be essentially as you left it. If you used a good quality oil, an oil specifically designed for clocks, it should not break down over the course of one year. A thin coat of quality oil in an unused clock will disappear over about 4 years with little or no trace of residue and that is the time that it needs re-oiling. The buildup of sludge often seen is the end result of repeated over-oilings over the course of many years.
I know collectors who run a small number of their clocks daily but some intermittently, perhaps once or twice a month or a year, enough to keep the wheels and the oil moving. I have some specialized clocks that I will run only occasionally like my Kienzle World Clock in order to lessen the wear but keep the parts moving. Why? This a very frustrating clock to service and I want to extend the service interval as long as possible.
Kienzle World Time clock
Getting back to the home environment I should mention mention that concentrations of some indoor pollutants are often 2 to 5 times higher than typical outdoor concentrations. In environments with air born particulates, tobacco smoke and animal dander your clock should be sealed properly by making sure that access doors/panels are closed, that broken dial glass is replaced, large holes in the clock cases are sealed and clocks are away from areas of the house that produce higher amounts of dust and humidity (kitchens and bathrooms).
Unfortunately, most people let their clocks run until they start to show signs of servicing and at that point repairs can be costly if you are not doing the work yourself.
Taking good care of your timely treasure will reward you with years of service.
I am a retired educator living in Nova Scotia Canada. I collect vintage and antique clocks that I repair and maintain. I also write about horological areas of interest, interesting clocks and clock stories when I search for new acquisitions.
As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back
Baby Ben alarm clock with seconds hand
In the spring of 2015 I began my journey into blogging. The first few months of writing about clocks, clock collecting and repair were very challenging. How could I interest those who not only collect antique and vintage clocks but have just a passing interest? As time went by I began to realize that there was plenty to write about, that the world of clock collecting and repair is incredibly vast and that there is much to learn.
This blog has given me an opportunity to profile my own clock collection, walk the reader through the challenges of restoring and repairing my clocks and the knowledge gained from those experiences.
Cuckoo clock
As I write this article my blog has over 49,000 total views, 33% from United States, 17% from Canada and the remainder from around the world including the United Kingdom, Australia, Romania, Germany, India, The Netherlands, South Africa, Malaysia and 80 other countries. The top 5 articles this year were:
Mauthe Mantel Clock
Daniel Dakota Wall Clock
What is my clock worth?
How to wind a mechanical clock
U.M. Muller Box Clock
As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back. In the past year alone viewership has doubled. My visitors average 1.8 articles per visit with an average of 88 views on a typical day in 2017. November and December peaked at 100+ views per day.
Swiss made smoothing broaches
Providing enough stimulating content so that visitors want to return is always a challenge. I post 7 articles a month, sometimes one or two extra, usually spaced 4-5 days apart, on various topics of interest. I also attempt to appeal to all facets of clock collecting and repair from profiling my own acquisitions and experiences restoring and repairing my clocks to articles of general interest. I also inject historical horological context as much as possible.
I receive about 30+ comments per month on average. All comments and inquiries are welcomed. Interesting comments come from people who typically ask me how much their clock is worth, particular problems they have with their clock, strategies for repair and information about the history of their clock. All questions are answered to the best of my ability but I make no pretense that I am a trained professional.
Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock, circa 1870
In 2018 my intent is to continue to write interesting articles about clocks in general as well as profiling my modest but expanding collection of antique and vintage clocks. I also plan to explore special areas of interest.
Future articles include, “Letting a clock sit without running”, “Mercedes clock – not made by the car folks”, my 4th Arthur Pequegnat clock, a second installment of the Waterbury Ogee 30 hour clock, a mini New Haven Ogee that has some curious modifications, how to set up your grandfather clock, “What style clock do I have?” and more Crazy Clock Ads.
Ingraham Huron mantel clock circa 1878
Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock
Stay tuned and if there is an area of interest you would like to see me to explore, drop me a quick note. If you like what you are reading express “Like” it at the end of each article.
Thanks for your comments, your encouragement and your continued support.
Here is an ad for a clock recently offered on an online for-sale site. Here is the description.
The clocks dose not work it needs some work 80 dollars or best offer
And here is the image that is attached. There is only one image.
Blurred image of a mantel clock for sale. Photo not rotated, as seen on ad
Would you as the buyer even ask more questions about this clock?
Wouldn’t the seller put just a little extra effort into a good description and decent resolution images if they wanted to charge a fair price for their clock? I would be surprised if the seller gets any response from this ad.
Is clock collecting (and repair) part of the counter-technology revolution?
Many years ago, social scientists predicted with the onset of modern technology it would sap us of our knowledge. Our brains would simply melt away. Concentration and initiative would be sucked out of us. Why would you need to know anything if it is readily available at your fingertips? How often do you hear the phrase, “just google it”. Sadly, it has become an integral part of our lexicon.
People are embracing old technology and returning to the fulfillment of doing things for themselves
The term counter-technology is not a term I invented. I found it mentioned in a car magazine article some time ago. Many people are collecting and repairing antique cars more than ever. Why? Reliving past memories? Getting your hands dirty. Rejecting the modern world?
Has the analogue world returned? Yes and no. Wine and beer making has become a huge industry and there seem to be mom and pop microbreweries everywhere, antique furniture purchases have increased dramatically, backyard chicken coops are popping up everywhere, fountain pen collecting is a “new” thing, vinyl records are spinning back and stamp collecting is returning with renewed vigor.
Retro is in. But is is not just that! It is a statement. People are embracing old technology and returning to the fulfillment of doing things for themselves. We all know the value and satisfaction of pursuing a simpler way of life but at the same time we still want to feel connected to our busy modern world. We want both. This is our inevitable response to the new digital world. We are pushing back but just enough to satisfy our needs by remaining connected with the past but we still feel the need to be plugged in.
However, every now and then we feel the need to dis-engage. Digital detoxification. It’s a thing. Somehow we want to wash the digital world from our lives, however briefly. I spend summers at our family cottage in Quebec (Canada). There is no Internet and I am totally fine with that. But what’s the first thing I do when I return home? You got it!
You too can be saved
Simplicity breeds complexity
To truly embrace the analogue world the mechanical clock is my personal statement. Not only do I collect antique and vintage clocks I repair them as well. As readers know I am not a trained horologist but I love the challenge of repairing a clock and I love accumulating knowledge in the pursuit of my hobby. Needless to say I am not always successful and my office has a few notable failures. I am fine with that. Failure breeds learning. It is my response to the increasing pressures of the digital world. It is my response to our increasingly complicated world. Simplicity breeds complexity.
Like the juggler who can keep all the balls in the air at once
It took 2 years to learn the skills necessary to repair this Sessions Westminster A chime clock
Analogue verses digital. It is a question of balance, like the juggler who can keep all the balls in the air at once. I admire people who have “analogue” hobbies but I especially admire those who remain connected to our modern world by maintaining a delicate balance between both.
This is the Whittier model from Welch’s Authors series. Tran’s 2d ed. shows it from the 1893 catalogue. It is a half-hour strike clock. Though an alarm could be ordered this clock came without one.
It is solid walnut in construction, deep brown in colour and darkened by age. It stands 22 inches tall by 14 ½ inches wide and 5 inches deep. The crown is an ornate machine-cut design with a single bulls-eye. The Roman numeral dial face with inner brass ring is original but has been covered with a clear varnish.
Clock face in good condition
The spade hands with circular cut-outs also appear to be original. The tablet is in remarkable condition and features an embossed gold colored scene of two female child warriors on each side presumably guarding an older female warrior (laurel and spear), reminiscent of Greek or Roman mythology.
Barely readable label
Bottom label with running instructions
There are two labels on the back panel, the top designates the model name which is barely readable; the bottom label has generic operating instructions for several types of clock models. Both labels appear to have been varnished over at some point. The upper area of the back panel has a hook for hanging the clock, added by a previous owner. However, this is a shelf or mantel clock, not meant to be hung on a wall. I doubt that the pendulum bob was this colour originally.
Though incorrectly termed a kitchen or gingerbread clock it is commonly referred to as a parlor or hall clock. Since the company last produced clocks in 1902 I would comfortably date this clock at between 1893-96 or perhaps a little later, 1901-02. The E. N. Welch Clock Company has a fascinating history (detailed in Part I of this series) and unfortunately not many of these well-made American clocks are still around.
Time and strike movement
In Part III I will describe the challenges of servicing the clock movement.
While touring through the United States we had an opportunity to explore the “magic” of antique malls. Antique malls are typically located in former department stores such as Macys or JC Penny found in commercial areas of a town or city. Antique malls are an American cultural experience. They are not a unique experience for me as I have been in much smaller antique malls in Canada but this one was very BIG!
Dozens of vendor stalls
A particular example I will use is the Maumee Antique Mall located north of Toledo, Ohio. For the antique shopper the first impression is of a giant smorgasbord of antiques. Could I find a bargain given the huge selection of antique items? The Maumee Mall would have about 200 vendors or more. Each vendor would occupy a small 12X12 stall though some might have more than one stall.
It was a weekday and we did not expect to see a lot of shoppers; that was certainly the case on that particular Thursday. The mall is organized into aisles with plenty of antiques with no particular organization. If one were looking for crystal, for example, some stalls would have crystal and others a slightly better selection but there is no specific area of the mall that would have a concentration of any particular item. Front end staff in a check out area handle all the transactions. The mall is filled with security cameras so you are being watched at all times. There are also security staff disguised as shoppers who are present throughout the complex. A small snack bar invites the shopper to have a bite while finding that special item.
Always and I mean always ask for a discount
There are no discounts on items below a certain fixed value ($20 for instance). Some malls are authorized to offer a %10 discount without contacting the seller. Any further negotiation on price requires the mall staff to contact the vendor who may or may not be immediately available. If contacted, the sellers normally do not offer much more than the standard 10% discount. A bit of advice; in malls such as Maumee or any antique store for that matter, always and I mean always ask for a discount.
On this particular Thursday I was shopping for antique clocks. I found nothing that I would consider a “deal” that day. A typical gingerbread clock was in the US$175 to US$200 range, a mantel clock US$100 or more.
Appears to be a deal but this Gingerbread needs a lot of work
Interesting clocks but pricey
A Mauthe German box clock that was not in the best of shape was selling for US$299. In general, most clocks had serious issues such as missing hands, no pendulum, scuffed up or cracked cases and unreadable dials. Clock prices were 30% to 50% higher than you would find on eBay, any other auction site or your local mom and pop antique store. My wife was shopping for glassware & crystal and also found higher than average prices but managed to find a couple of nice items.
US$299 Mauthe time and strike wall clock
Why? High overhead is most certainly a factor. Staffing, security, and steep rental rates force the vendor to charge higher than normal prices. Malls such as this most certainly attract a customer base though I suspect not many are highly educated antique shoppers.
For the bargain shopper there are much better options in my opinion. The best bargains for clocks can be found on local community online for-sale sites where you can negotiate directly with the seller electronically or in person.
Call it a cultural experience but in my view you will not find great bargains at an antique mall. Your mileage may differ!
There is a peculiar phenomena happening in the clock world today and that is tumbling clock prices. French cartelle clocks, American jewelers regulators, original E. Howard and Willard banjo clocks to name a few have retained their value but clocks that would have sold for hundreds of dollars a few short years ago can be had for almost nothing today. It is not a great sellers market.
Rare Ingraham Huron shelf clock was once sought after by collectors
Prices will not rise any time soon as modern generations have been conditioned to discarding old for new irrespective of merit and in contradiction to the ideology that recycling saves the planet
Why are clock prices so low?
I have acquired some very nice clocks for ridiculously low prices. While it is part luck there is ample evidence that recent clock prices have never been lower.
There are so many clocks that no one seems to want. Gingerbreads, school house clocks, mantel clocks, Ogees (30 hour or one-day especially), calendar clocks and most garden variety clocks go for very low prices. Good for collectors, not so good for sellers. Prices will not rise any time soon as modern generations have been conditioned to discarding old for new irrespective of merit and in contradiction to the ideology that recycling saves the planet.
Millennials are also facing a very different world than I and my contemporaries faced. Factory work or clerical positions are now considered a good job and young people are staying with mom and dad living in their old rooms as they try to pay off mortgage size student loans. Under those circumstances you will not consider buying a tall case clock or an 18th century French clock.
Thanks but I have no place to put one
My generation (I am in my 60s) did not typically have mechanical clocks in their homes (aside from Grandfather and cuckoo clocks), so younger people today do not have those kind of memories to inspire nostalgia. In my day mechanical clocks were thrown in the trash when they wore out to make way for the electric clock. For young people today the old clocks we loved are not in their sights for purchase. An offer to gift a clock to a millennial is often met with the reply, “Thanks but I have no place to put one” and of course, winding it is always a hassle. A visit to any antique store or clock fair says it all when observations show the average age of visitors and traders are often in their “senior” years.
Junghans Crispi wall clock, not rare but a fascinating history
Prices of clocks really did not begin their rise in value (at least in North America) until the mid to late ’50’s. Since then and up until the late nineties many ordinary clocks commanded high prices. Since the year 2000, the economy has been spiraling downward. Paralleling the declining economy is the decline of prices for antiques of all types. The at-times spectacular and troubling declines in real estate values, increasing unemployment and fewer discretionary dollars have all had an deleterious effect on dropping clock values. With the up-tick in the economy perhaps things will change
I collect clocks and other antiques for interest and history alone
I collect clocks and other antiques for interest alone and only those I can afford which often means that I will try to buy a clock for as little as possible. Collecting in this way allows me the comfort in knowing that there is no worry about future rises or drops in value. I acquire clocks simply because I want them, and pay a price that is worth it to me. If I see something that I do not have, it is unique or has some historical value and it is a reasonable price (to me), I will buy it.
However, many of us collectors are aging and downsizing. Few are in buying mode and many want to sell. The result is a glut of often lesser quality clocks that were once bought at higher prices.
French mantel clock, a very nice clock at a ridiculously low price
Unless you are prepared to learn how to repair or somehow care for an old mechanical clock you are faced with the prospect that the cost of repair far exceeds the value of the clock. Sentimental reasons always trump repair costs but the message from the clock repair person with integrity is clear, “keep it, it is not worth the cost of repairing”.
Will prices get better? Prices for antiques and collectibles is cyclical and chances are that they will go up again.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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