Servicing a HAC Clock Movement

Among clock collectors and admirers, the Hamburg American Clock Company is a well-known German company. It is otherwise known as Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik or HAU and in many parts of the world, it is simply known as HAC.

In this post, I will outline the procedures involved in servicing the movement of a HAC mantel clock produced circa 1925. It’s worth noting that HAC crafted clocks for international markets, and in the case of this particular clock, it spent a period in England after its initial manufacturing.

_{Time and strike mantel clock made by the Hamburg American Clock Co. known as HAC or HAU}

Disassembling the movement

After removing the clock hands and releasing the six screws that attach the movement to the front dial board the movement can be maneuvered carefully around the bronze rod gong without having to remove the gong itself.

Once out of its case, the first step is to remove the suspension spring and pendulum leader. A taper pin secures the spring onto the suspension post.

Next, safely let down the mainsprings using a letdown tool. On this movement, and I have not seen it elsewhere, there is a small pin on each rachet. Once the letdown tool is placed in the arbour, it is a simple matter of pushing the pin on the click with a small screwdriver and allowing the rachet to run freely, under control, of course.

The pin on the click is indicated by an arrow — _{The pin is indicated by an arrow}

At this point, the two exterior wheels, both rachets with their retainers and the click springs can be removed as well as the “V” shaped stop lever.

On the front of the movement, two screws hold the pallet arbour plate, and with it comes the crutch. Note the position of the small pallet arbour plate for future reference. This is also a good time to remove the hammer from its arbour but the plates can be separated with the hammer still attached.

At this stage release the 4 nuts holding the movement and the back plate can be removed. There are two springs which look like stiff wire, one is for the count lever and the other for the hammer. Do not break these springs and be careful handling the plate once it is separated. The wire springs can be repaired if they break but it adds more work to servicing.

Plate is removed exposing wheels and levers — _{Plate is removed}

Once the plate is lifted from the movement, the wheels and levers can be removed. Strike and time side wheels are then separated into containers. I like working from the top down and carefully removing each wheel one at a time. The centre cannon is the last wheel to be removed. The half-hour cam, a star wheel with two points, is on a tube which can be pulled off the arbour and the centre wheel easily lifts out. Once the centre cannon is removed the mainspring barrels can be extracted and put aside for servicing.

Assessing wear

Identifying whether a movement has undergone previous work can be challenging, but scratch marks around pivot holes typically suggest past work. An unmistakable sign of prior servicing is the presence of punch marks, as observed around the mainspring barrel on the time side. The aggressive punching suggests that the arbour hole was enlarged considerably. However, the arbour’s fit through the barrel appears sufficiently tight, indicating no immediate concern.

_{Time-side mainspring barrel showing punch marks}

While it’s not approved today, punching pivot holes was a common practice in the past.

The movement is relatively clean but over-oiled the result of simply lubricating the clock over the years without actually checking to see if it required new oil.

There are very few issues with the movement with a potential need for two new bushings on the strike side and just one on the time side.

Cleaning the movement parts

Cleaning a clock movement’s parts is a fundamental step in the maintenance and restoration process. It not only improves the immediate performance of the clock but also contributes to its long-term durability and accuracy.

Cleaning a mechanical movement’s parts before reassembling a clock movement is crucial for several reasons, to remove dirt and debris, prevent wear and damage, optimize performance identify and any perfomance issues. Cleaning is often accompanied by the application of fresh lubrication to key components. Lubrication reduces friction between moving parts, minimizing wear and ensuring smoother operation. This step is vital for maintaining the health of the movement.

March 19, 2024

PROFILE MY CLOCK: Empire-style anniversary clock from South Africa

^{If you have a favorite clock in your collection that has earned a special place in your heart, we invite you to share its unique story with our readers. Whether it’s a vintage masterpiece or a modern marvel, we want to unravel the essence of what makes your clock truly exceptional. Provide me with a history of the clock and/or some interesting details that I could include in a blog article. The only identifier will be the first and last letters of your name and your country location.}

I recently received a letter from D in South Africa, requesting assistance in gathering information about a particularly cherished clock that has been a part of his family for many years. D has graciously given consent for me to feature and profile this special family clock on my blog.

D writes

I hope you don’t mind me reaching out to you. My family has an Empire-style anniversary clock that I believe is rare and I am struggling to find any information, relating to its age, maker, or “story”.

It has been such a part of our family and I regret not exploring the history while family members were still able to shed some light on its origin…
A local clock expert has suggested it was possibly made in the early 1900s in Germany…I contacted Martin Haller who confirmed it was not made by them.

Empire anniversary clock pie crust dial face — _{Dial face}

Empire anniversary clock, pendulum design — _{Unique pendulum}

I believe the clock was imported to South Africa by J Muller (a jeweler)who was originally from the Black Forest in Germany and their family became well-known optometrists here in Cape Town. I think they gifted it to my great-grandparents before the First World War.
If you perhaps have any information about the clock I would be most grateful.
Many thanks, D

Empire anniversary clock back plate — _Backplate

I was intrigued by D’s clock and decided to do a little digging

My reply

Hi, and thanks for your email, D. First of all, it is a fascinating clock and, in my view, quite rare. Time is the enemy of memories and once the memories are lost, they are lost forever. I know very little of the history of most of the clocks in my collection, unfortunately, but it is nice to learn that your clock has been in your family for such a long time. At least you can trace most of its history.

The photo of the face is a bit blurry but the names on the dial face of a shelf clock such as yours are usually the retailer or a dedication to an individual. I assume there is no maker’s stamp on the movement.

A Haller clock would have been an excellent guess, but I think not.

The plate image of your clock can be found in the Horolovar manual. The Horolovar manual is an indispensable resource for anyone working on, or collecting torsion clocks.

I have attached two photos from the Horolovar manual, a guide to the repair of 400-day and similar torsion clocks to aid in identifying your clock. Yours has Jahresuhrenfabrik c1902 plate 1471 (see photo). Angemeldet means declared; a “declared patent”.

Patent Angemeldet, image of clock plate for a torsion clock — _{The backplate of the anniversary clock}

I discovered that the clock was designed by Andreas Huber.

_{Andreas Huber twin-loop temperature compensating pendulum}

The patent for the movement is dated 1902. Your clock was likely made shortly after that date. While the clock case radiates regal elegance, it is the pendulum that is its most intriguing feature. The pendulum is unique because it is twin-loop temperature-compensating to maintain accuracy throughout its running cycle. A type not found in many anniversary clocks.

Two companies purchased movements from Andreas Huber, Badische Uhrenfabrik, and the more widely known Kienzle, both of Germany. It is also quite possible that Huber sold to other companies such as Schatz or Gustav Becker, but I have found nothing to confirm that.

You have a unique clock and, who knows, a reader somewhere in the world might provide more information so that we can both learn more about this fascinating clock.

February 27, 2024

Trouble Strikes Thrice: The Notion of Bad Luck in Threes

The belief that bad luck happens in threes is a common folk belief that suggests that if you experience one bad event or stroke of bad luck, two more are likely to follow in quick succession. While this adage is not grounded in any scientific or empirical evidence, it has persisted for years.

In this blog post, I will recount a series of unfortunate events I’ve experienced with one specific clock, a German-made mahogany-cased Junghans Hansruck time and strike mantel clock from the latter part of 1913.

While my bad luck didn’t unfold rapidly it seems that I was destined to have problems with this clock from the outset.

_{Junghans Hansruck time and strike mantel clock when first received}

Some time ago, I purchased the clock through an online auction. Emerging as the successful bidder, I arranged for the clock to be shipped to my location. It arrived intact and undamaged.

Setback Number One

After unpacking the clock, I immediately set out to test its functionality. I wound up both the strike side and the time side, ready to set the correct time when the minute hand unexpectedly snapped off. It wasn’t an ideal beginning, to say the least. While the minute hand was repairable, it added another layer of frustration to contend with.

Okay, I can deal with the hand later. Back to the clock. The clock wasn’t working after all, but a good cleaning and addressing any wear issues should get it running again.

Showing the face of a Junghans mantel clock and the repaired minute hand — _{Soldered minute hand}

I managed to solder the hand and put it aside while I addressed the movement.

Setback Number Two

I serviced the movement, reassembled it, and placed it on the test stand. It ran smoothly for a few days on the time side, but the strike side had issues. While investigating the malfunction I identified a small stamped metal part on the movement had bent. In an attempt to straighten it, I inadvertently applied too much force, causing the piece to snap off. I’ll call the part an actuator.

The strike actuator when activated lifts a lever to begin the strike process. The actuator is attached to the front plate with a small machine screw and is free to move.

On the center arbor is a star cam. The 2 points on the star cam rotate every 30 minutes until a star point pushes the strike actuator to begin the strike sequence. A protruding piece of metal, the contact piece for the star point on the actuator, is the part that broke as I was attempting to unbend it.

Soldered piece above the centre cannon on a Junghans Hunruck movement.. — _{Soldered actuator}

As the actuator does not apply much pressure on the lever above it, soldering should do the trick. Back to more soldering.

The actuator is repaired and the hand has been soldered. Both are functioning like new and the movement is running well on the test stand.

Setback Number Three

Satisfied that everything was working correctly after the testing phase and the movement was keeping good time I then proceeded to mount the movement into its case.

Here’s how I think the third mishap occurred.

When mounting the movement into its case, I positioned the case glass side down without any padding. My attempts to secure the movement into the case might have inadvertently stressed the dial glass, leading it to break. I didn’t hear the crack, and the second possibility is that it occurred earlier, possibly getting kicked accidentally on the floor next to my desk.

The bottom line is, that the glass is now cracked, necessitating either replacing it or salvaging the dial bezel from another clock. I don’t suppose anyone has a magical resin that will hide the crack.

I thought so!

Cracked dial glass on a Junghans mantel clock — _{Cracked dial glass}

Most errors in clockwork are fixable, but a damaged dial glass is an exception—it cannot be repaired.

Cracked glass aside it is a very nice clock and it runs well.

Are setbacks a good thing?

I don’t often publish my mistakes but in the spirit of transparency and the unpredictable nature of clock restoration, it seems fitting to share this series of setbacks with my audience.

So, does bad luck happen in threes? From a statistical perspective, events occurring in threes are not more likely than any other numerical pattern but it happened.

Setbacks are a natural part of the process and should not deter anyone from passionately pursuing a hobby they love. Not every restoration or service of a clock goes according to plan and it’s normal to face unexpected issues when restoring or servicing clocks that are over 100 years old.

Yes, of course, there are lessons learned. But it just seems very strange that all of this happened to me with this one clock.

February 13, 2024

A tale of two mantel clocks – German vs American engineering

Assessing the quality of mantel clocks, whether American or German, involves considering various factors such as craftsmanship, materials used, design, and overall reliability. Both American and German manufacturers have a rich history in clockmaking, and each has its own unique characteristics.

In my collection, I’ve assembled a diverse array of clocks, featuring both American and European examples. Drawing upon my experiences, I can confidently say that when it comes to overall quality, I find myself favouring a typical German clock over its American counterpart.

American mantel clocks are known for their diversity in design and style. Manufacturers like Seth Thomas, Ansonia, Waterbury, Sessions, and others have produced a wide range of mantel clocks with different aesthetic influences. The craftsmanship and attention to detail in many American mantel clocks are often praised. Some American manufacturers have a tradition of incorporating high-quality materials, such as solid wood and detailed finishes.

However, the American mantel clock market has seen fluctuations in quality over time. Some collectors and enthusiasts may argue that the mid-20th century saw a decline in craftsmanship as manufacturers faced increased competition and economic pressures.

I see this clearly in American mechanical clocks made in the 1920s and 1930s. There is a definite step downwards in quality and the goal of production seems to have been to maximize profits.

Germany has a long-standing reputation for precision engineering and quality craftsmanship, and this extends to its clockmaking industry. German mantel clocks, especially those produced by renowned manufacturers like Mauthe, Junghans, HAC, Kienzle, Gustav Becker, and others are often associated with precision movements and reliable timekeepers.

German mantel clocks are also known for their mechanical excellence and commitment to traditional clockmaking techniques. Many German clocks feature intricately designed cases and precise movements, often with a focus on accuracy and durability.

German clock manufacturers maintained their commitment to producing high-quality clocks well into the 1920s and 1930s. Instead of compromising on materials or craftsmanship, they opted to charge a premium for their clocks, ensuring that the level of quality remained consistently high.

A comparison

Let’s compare a common German mantel clock with its American counterpart. Both are in my collection.

The Junghans mantel clock features a design reminiscent of the popular bracket-style clocks that were fashionable several years before its production around 1915. It has a mahogany veneered case, a brass case handle, brass features below the dial, a solid brass dial bezel with beveled glass, and elegant brass feet. Its sturdy time and strike movement, known for its reliability during that era, adds to the clock’s appeal as a dependable clock for the home.

_{Seth Thomas time and strike with type 89 movement}

The Seth Thomas clock, manufactured in the United States, showcases a case of inferior quality, a basic brass bezel, and a simulated wood veneer that imitates the appearance of exotic wood. Cost-saving to maximize profit was the ultimate priority during the period of manufacture of this clock from the early 1930s.

Despite this, the clock is equipped with the reliable and durable type 89 movement, which has proven to be bulletproof and dependable over time.

Servicing a German vs an American movement

There are pros and cons to servicing either type of movement. German time and strike movements can be a bit more intricate and finicky, especially when setting up the strike side, as lining up the parts correctly is crucial. Dealing with smaller pivots also increases the risk of damage, bending, or breaking.

Conversely, with American time and strike movements, the larger pivots minimize breakage and it requires brute strength to inflict any damage when manipulating the parts.

However crude an American movement might appear in a side-by-side comparison with a German movement, there is a notable advantage to the former. An American movement (generally speaking) can endure wear much better than a German movement, and it can continue to run effectively even when significantly worn.

That said, when both are set up correctly and any wear is mitigated both American and German movements function reliably for years.

In Summary

Both American and German mantel clocks can offer high-quality options, but individual preferences may vary based on factors like design preferences and specific features.

Collectors and enthusiasts often appreciate the historical context and craftsmanship associated with clocks from both regions.

Obviously, your source of clocks depends on where you live in the world as Canadian and American clocks are widely available to those living in North America whereas the opposite is true for European and Australian residents, for example.

One last thing to note is that precision regulators from both countries are of equal quality. Whether American or German, both exhibit equal precision and performance. They both adhere to the highest standards and can be trusted for accurate timekeeping. It’s worth noting, however, that achieving such precision comes with a correspondingly high price.

These viewpoints represent my personal opinions, and I encourage readers to delve into researching specific models and manufacturers. Making an informed decision should be based on individual preferences and priorities.

February 9, 2024

Disaster strikes a Junghans movement

My apologies for the wordplay in the title. I recently encountered an issue with the striking mechanism in a German clock I’m currently repairing, and in this article, I would like to describe my experience with the repair.

I have to admit it is a frustrating problem that could have been a disaster but I came up with a solution that should work.

Junghans B11 movement on the test stand — _{Junghans movement on the test stand}

The other day I was investigating why the strike side of a Junghans time and strike movement was not functioning correctly and discovered a portion of a small stamped metal part on the exterior of the movement had bent.

I had simply pried too hard when unbending a part of the stamped metal piece and it snapped off, which surprised me. It was a very small piece and when it flew off it was hidden in the clutter of my work area but I was successful in retrieving it. Without that small piece, I was not certain I could make the repair.

Junghans movement in the clock case — _{The movement in the case}

Perhaps I do not have the correct name for the part that bent but let’s call it the strike actuator. The strike actuator when activated lifts a lever to begin the strike process. The activator is attached to the front plate with a small machine screw and is free to move.

Side view of the Junghans time and strike movement — _{Junghans movement side view}

Needless to say, I was crestfallen. What do I do now!

There are essentially three ways of addressing a situation like this.

If I had enough spare parts, the straightforward fix would be to replace the problematic part by taking it from a donor movement. However, whereas I have an ample supply of spare American movements for American clock repairs, unfortunately, I lack spare German movements for parts.

To my knowledge, there is no established source for Junghans clock parts. While clock parts suppliers offer various components for common repairs like escapements and mainsprings, smaller parts like this are typically not readily available in their inventory.

The second solution is to simply have a nonfunctioning strike side but a clock that at the very least, tells the time.

The third alternative involves undertaking a repair, as there appears to be a potential for some sort of restoration. So, I chose to fix it. Although I cannot assure the repair’s absolute success, my intention is to conduct thorough testing to assess its effectiveness.

The Repair

To repair the actuator there is no need to disassemble the movement. One small slotted screw holds it in place. Release the screw and it is ready to be worked on.

To repair the actuator, I used a high-temperature butane torch along with a solder containing a significant amount of silver. It comes in spools and looks much like aluminum wire.

Silver solder is known for its higher melting point compared to other solder types, ensuring greater durability and reducing the risk of weld cracking.

Using hobby alligator clamps, I securely held together the broken piece and the actuator, eliminating the need to handle the pieces manually. After securing them, I dabbed flux in the weld area and then applied heat until the metal changed color and then proceeded to apply the solder.

The stamped metal part (in black) is the actuator and here you can see the successful repair — _{The stamped metal black part is the actuator} _{and here you can see the successful repair}

The challenging part involved aligning the fractured piece onto the actuator. I had to carefully maneuver the clamps to ensure they were positioned correctly for the welding process. The actual soldering was the easy part and literally took seconds.

After a few minutes, I reattached the actuator. I then wound both the strike and time side of the movement and observed the action of the actuator as it went through the strike sequence. It worked!

I plan to keep the movement on the test stand for a couple of weeks or more but after running it for four days the weld has held.

Final thoughts

Tackling the repair of the actuator in this Junghans clock posed its challenges, particularly in aligning and securing the broken piece onto the actuator. Importantly, in any clock servicing, mistakes may occur, but it’s crucial to remember that there are ways to address and rectify many errors. Whether through additional adjustments, alternative techniques, or seeking guidance, the learning process in clock repair involves both successes and challenges.

In the end, the commitment to problem-solving enhances one’s skills, making each repair experience a valuable lesson in the pursuit of clock repair.

January 23, 2024

Junghans round-top mantel clock – wrapping up servicing

In the past two weeks, my focus has been directed towards the servicing of a Junghans roundtop mantel clock. This particular time and strike mantel clock is the Hunsruck model manufactured in the second half of 1913 (stamped B13 on the rear plate). For first impressions and background information about the clock itself, you can go here. For a description of mainspring servicing, you can find that article here.

_{Junghans Hunsruck mantel clock C.1913}

During this part of the servicing process, my attention will be focused on bushing work, reassembly (with some tips), final testing, and addressing the condition of the case.

_{Back of movement showing strike block and pendulum}

My initial assessment revealed that the movement was generally in good condition. While some previous work had been done on it, limited to a basic cleaning, no substantial repairs were evident. Nevertheless, a conspicuous buildup of dirty oil was observed in most pivot holes, underscoring the need for a good cleaning.

_{Avoid using a taper pin for this lever (see arrow), as it would result in the lever being excessively tight; opt for a thin wire instead}

Upon closer inspection, elongated pivot holes in three locations told me that new bushings were necessary: specifically, the third wheel time side, back plate, and both the front and back plates of the star wheel. The star wheel runs off the count wheel and it is the star points that move the tail that activates the hammer to produce the strike on the half hour.

The pivot holes were carefully cleaned out using toothpicks as the first step in the cleaning process. Subsequently, I examined the pivots on each wheel by running a fingernail across them to detect any ridges or imperfections, and they appeared to be in excellent condition. I also verified the integrity of the pins in each lantern pinion. Upon confirming that I had addressed all that I could at this point, the next phase involved cleaning the components in the ultrasonic cleaner.

Once everything was out of the ultrasonic cleaner all components were thoroughly dried to remove all traces of residual moisture.

Now to address the worn pivot holes.

_{A centering bit ensures an accurate cut}

If you are accustomed to handling traditional time-and-strike American clocks, the small pivots on these German clocks might cause some unease. The diameter of each bushing measures just 2.47mm (Bergeon bushing size), whereas conventional bushings for an American clock are often 3.47mm and larger (again, Bergeon-sized bushings).

In the above photo, I use a centering bit to ensure a precise cut into the plate so that the bushing can be seamlessly inserted.

To ensure a precise fit the newly installed bushings are reamed using a cutting broach, followed by smoothing with a broach and cleaning with a toothpick. After each new bushing is in place, the wheels are test-fitted to ensure they spin freely plus sufficient end shake.

Given the delicate nature of the pivots, handling each one requires careful attention, as a broken pivot and its repair can be a challenging and intricate task on a German clock.

After the bushings are installed the movement is reassembled. Before attaching the back plate, all wheels, and levers are positioned in their respective locations.

_{Wheels and levers are ready for the rear place}

To avoid having to remove the back plate to make further adjustments after assembly addressing four specific items will ease the process;

the count lever paddle must be in one of the deep slots of the count wheel,
the cam lever must be on the flat section of the cam,
the hammer tail must be positioned between two points of the star wheel (otherwise the tail contacts a star point, and the hammer will be left in the raised position preventing further striking)
and the pin on the warning wheel must be in the 12 o’clock position to catch the warning lever.

In my experience, the hammer tail contacting one of the star points is the most common of annoyances and calls for parting the plates. It is worth noting that the levers on clock movements of this specific type are not adjustable so, bending a lever to fit is not possible.

Utmost attention must be paid to moving the pivots carefully into their respective holes as the risk of a broken pivot is very high at this point in the process. A “pivot locator” is an indispensable tool for safely moving pivots into their holes while working on the movement.

_{The pendulum is placed such that it can be seen through the front glass} _portal

Prior to mounting on the test stand, the movement is oiled using Keystone pivot oil. As with oiling any clock, the maxim is “less is more”.

The testing phase is one of the most crucial parts of the process, providing a chance to make minor adjustments and regulate the movement. I routinely ensure that the movement goes through at least two or three operational cycles while mounted on the test stand. Once I am satisfied that the movement is running well and needs no further remediation it goes back into its case.

While the movement is being tested I generally address any issues regarding the case. Little needed to be done to this attractive oak-cased roundtop and a general cleaning with Murphy’s soap and an application of paste wax preserved its patina while sprucing up its appearance.

Servicing an antique clock not only respects its history but also keeps its mechanism working for future generations to appreciate.

November 24, 2023

Junghans round-top mantel clock – servicing the mainsprings

Last week I began working on a Junghans round top mantel clock. For first impressions and background information about the clock itself, you can find the article here.

During this segment of the maintenance process, my attention will be focused on the mainsprings.

Upon my initial assessment, it appeared that the movement was found to be in decent condition, overall. A noticeable accumulation of dirty oil in the majority of pivot holes told me that a thorough cleaning was necessary.

_{Junghans movement with the back plate removed}

Upon closer inspection, elongated pivot holes in three locations tell me that new bushings need to be installed: specifically, on the third wheel time side, back plate, and both the front and back plates of the star wheel. The star wheel runs off the count wheel and it is the star points that activate the hammer for the strike.

But first, let’s focus on the mainsprings.

In my experience neglecting certain steps during clock servicing can result in potential future complications.

For example, there is a temptation to overlook the mainspring barrels, yet it becomes evident that unless one is confident about the absence of accumulated dirt and grime within the spring barrel, certainty can only be achieved through disassembly. Moreover, the open design of this particular barrel increases the likelihood of dirt penetrating the springs.

While mainsprings can be removed from their barrels by hand and subsequently coiled back in by hand, a mainspring winder, such as one made by Olie Baker, is an essential tool for the serious repairer.

_{Time side mainspring on an Olie Baker spring winder, an appropriately sized collar is on the right}

Removing and reattaching the caps to any barrel can be quite cumbersome. With this particular barrel, a convenient and swift method involves using a small slotted screwdriver in one of the two small openings to easily pry open the cap.

_{A small slotted screwdriver is inserted in the opening to pry open the cap}

The importance of wearing leather gloves for safety cannot be overstated.

_{Tightening the mainspring allows for the insertion of the collar}

A firm grip on the barrel ensures a predictable and controlled process.

_{The collar is in place} _{and the spring can be let down and removed from the barrel}

During the removal of the mainspring, a thorough inspection is conducted to identify potential issues such as stress cracks, unusual wear, pitting, and the accumulation of rust. Subsequently, the spring undergoes a meticulous cleaning process to eliminate any dirty oil, followed by reoiling, before being reintegrated into the barrel.

Reattaching the cap to the barrels can be accomplished by employing two small clamps to gently guide the cap into position.

_{Two clamps help to guide the cap in place}

Once more, the use of gloves guarantees safety.

Upon proper placement, the cap will emit a distinctive “snap” sound.

_{Both mainsprings have been serviced and the barrels cleaned in the ultrasonic machine}

The springs in this particular clock appeared to be in excellent condition and are suitable for reuse.

Meanwhile, it is essential to inspect the barrel teeth for signs of wear, particularly focusing on any bent or damaged teeth during this stage. Worn teeth may result from a spring that is too powerful and not correctly rated for this clock, while broken or bent teeth could be indicative of a mainspring failure.

Next, we proceed with the remainder of the maintenance for this time and strike clock, moving on with the polishing of pivots and bushing work. Join me in a few days as we continue the servicing of this Junghans movement.

November 14, 2023

Junghans round top mantel clock servicing

I first wrote about this clock in April 2023 after having won it at auction. With so many other projects on the go, I can finally allocate time to focus on servicing this captivating German time and strike mantel clock.

The 1915 Junghans catalog identifies the clock as the Hunsruck, named after a mountain range in Germany, and provides its specifications as 28.5 cm in height with a mahogany or oak case construction, a 14-day run time, and a silvered dial. This clock is the mahogany cased model.

The movement is a time-and-strike design that was a hallmark feature of numerous Junghans mantel clocks during that period. I have one other Junghans mantel clock with an identical 151 movement.

Junghans Corner feet finished — _{Junghans Sydney with the 151 movement}

The Junghans trademark is boldly showcased on the gong block and inscribed on the back of the movement. On the back plate, it is stamped B13 which denotes the movement as having been manufactured in the latter part of 1913.

Removing the movement from the case is relatively straightforward. The movement, which rests on a wooden support board is held in place by two rather large 1 1/8 inch wood screws. After taking the movement out of the case, two brass thumbscrews are removed to release the seat board.

Assessment

Upon my initial assessment, it appears that the movement is in decent condition, overall. However, there is a noticeable accumulation of dirty oil in the majority of pivot holes, indicating a thorough cleaning is necessary.

I use toothpicks to carefully clean out the pivot holes before immersing the plates in the ultrasonic cleaner as part of my standard practice. With a soft cloth, I clean and inspect the pivots on each wheel using a fingernail across the pivot to check for ridges and imperfections. I then check the integrity of the pins in each of the lantern pinions. Once satisfied that the inspection is complete the next step is cleaning the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner.

I will pause here and resume next week with the continuation of servicing the Junghans type 151 clock movement, including details about the necessary bushing work. Additionally, I will provide insights into the case’s condition. Stay tuned for the conclusion!

November 7, 2023

The Philosophical Conundrum of Antique Clocks: When is a Clock No Longer Itself?

In the world of horology, antique clocks stand as both timekeeping devices and exquisite works of art, bearing witness to the craftsmanship and design sensibilities of bygone eras.

Yet, beneath their exteriors lies a profound philosophical conundrum—one that questions the very essence of their identity. As we dive into the realm of antique clocks, we find ourselves pondering a perplexing thought experiment: When is a clock no longer the same clock?

This article embarks on a journey through the intricacies of restoration, originality, and the identity of antique clocks.

When gradually replacing every part of a clock, a fascinating philosophical question arises: at what point does it cease to be the same clock? This conundrum extends to the creation of a “new” clock from those original parts.

This brings to mind the Ship of Theseus thought experiment which raises the intriguing question of identity and continuity. If all the components of a ship are gradually replaced over time, at what point does it cease to be the same ship?

_{Theseus, Photo by Heinz Klier on Pexels.com}

The dilemma lies in determining which of the two clocks can rightfully claim to be the original. This thought experiment delves into the complex nature of an object’s identity, as no two objects can occupy the exact same identity. It challenges us to consider whether an object with all its components replaced can still be fundamentally regarded as the same object.

Several years ago, I had the opportunity to work on a antique clock that was essentially a box of parts.

Junghans clock in pieces — _{Junghans clock pieces}

At first glance, it seemed to be in its original state, but upon closer inspection, discrepancies emerged. Contrary to the initial impression that all components were intact within the box, I soon realized that numerous intricate elements, such as case embellishments and finials, were absent. What’s more, a substantial portion of the case had been reconstructed using contemporary materials, and both front and side glass panels were notably absent.

Centre crown support post — _{Crown support made from new oak}

This prompts the question of whether a clock in such a state can still be categorized as original, or if it has strayed too far from the essence of originality due to the incorporation of modern elements and the absence of vital components.

Oak spindle — _{Fashioning finial bases from an oak spindle}

Despite its captivating visual appeal, my Junghans Crispi does not command the same market value as an authentic, original Crispi clock.

_{Junghans Crispi wall clock C.1899 (??)}

People often place a premium on originality, and I, for one, appreciate a well-preserved clock in its original condition. I may reconsider if it has been tastefully restored or repaired, recognizing that it’s a better fate than being discarded or stripped for parts. However, I wouldn’t expect to pay as much for a clock that has undergone significant alterations.

Valuing an excessively restored clock can be challenging. While conservation and restoration have their merits, the question arises: does a clock that was two steps away from the trash bin become less valuable when restored?

In reality, there are no definitive answers to these questions. Collectors will always exist who prioritize originality and others who are more forgiving of certain changes. So, is this debate a significant concern, or simply a matter of personal preference?

September 8, 2023

German Box Clocks: A Journey into Clockmaking History

Daniel Dakota wall clock, one of Tempus Fugits more popular models

The popularity of Vienna Regulator clocks began to wane towards the early part of the 20th century. The more modern and less ornate design of the box clock appealed to changing tastes and preferences after World War I, leading to the gradual replacement of Vienna Regulators with box clocks. The box clock design stood the test of time, enduring for over 30 years.

_{Gustav Becker weight-driven Vienna Regulator}

The German “box clock” is a type of antique clock that became popular in the early 20th century, particularly in the period following World War I. These clocks are sometimes also referred to as “box wall clocks” or “wall box clocks” due to their design and placement on walls.

German "box" clock by Mauthe — _{German box clock by Mauthe}

Key features and characteristics of German box clocks are its design and appearance since the box clock represents a departure from the designs of the Vienna Regulator clocks. Instead, box clocks embraced a more minimalist and utilitarian design. They typically have a simple rectangular or square wooden case with clean lines, a simple crown, glazed features and often lack the intricate carvings and embellishments seen in earlier clock styles.

Numerous German manufacturers, such as Mauthe, Gustav Becker, The Hamburg American Clock Company, Muller, Hermle, and Kienzle, were involved in the design and construction of box clocks.

Box clocks employ a weight-driven mechanical movement or a spring-driven movement. For the cost conscious, spring-driven box clocks were within the budget of most households.

Whether the movements use weights or springs to power the clock’s operation, they require periodic winding to keep accurate time. The run times were typically 8 days though some were made to run for 14 days. The movement is always housed within a wooden case and is typically viewable through glazed side ports.

_{Kienzle time and strike box with round top}

The clock dials on box clocks are typically white or silvered dials with either Arabic or Roman numerals to indicate the hours. Most box clocks have simple black spear or spade hands for better contrast and easy readability.

$299 Mauthe wall clock — _{Mauthe box clock}

A prominent feature of box clocks is the pendulum, which might be quite plain or ornate, which swings beneath the clock’s dial and is visible thorough a bevelled glass panel. The pendulum’s length is adjusted to regulate the clock’s timekeeping accuracy.

Some box clocks include a chime feature that makes a musical tone on the quarter hour while other have a strike feature that rings the hour or half-hour. A clock face with three winding arbours signifies a chiming clock, whereas a clock with two winding points indicates a striking clock. This adds a pleasant sound to mark the passing of time.

The vast majority of box clocks were produced in Germany. German clock-makers were renowned for their precision and craftsmanship, making Germany a hub for clock manufacturing during that era.

Box clocks were widely used in homes, offices, schools, and other public spaces. Their minimalist design made them versatile and suitable for various interior styles.

_{Daniel Dakota box clock from the 1960s}

Caution should be exercised against copies. In the 1960s, the Chinese reintroduced the box clock design and inundated the market with numerous 31-day clocks, sold under various names, with Daniel Dakota being the most widely recognized brand. However, these clocks did not match the quality and craftsmanship of the traditional German box clocks. During the same vintage period, certain Korean and Japanese clocks demonstrated acceptable quality standards but most are to be avoided.

Today, German box clocks are sought after by collectors and antique enthusiasts for their historical significance, craftsmanship, and unique design. They serve as reminders of a bygone era and continue to captivate people with their appeal.

If you are interested in acquiring a box clock, it’s essential to verify its authenticity and condition, as well as consult with experts or appraisers to ensure its value and authenticity.

August 8, 2023

My most recent Hunsruck Clock evokes memories of my first Junghans clock

While working on one of my latest acquisitions, a Junghans Hunsruck mantel clock, memories flooded back to the first Junghans clock I ever owned, a Junghans Crispi wall clock, that I still have to this day.

It was a humble box of parts when it first came to me, but I was determined to bring it back to life.

The restoration process was a hands-on experience where I had to fashion new parts, source missing pieces, and master the art of staining and gluing. Through this ground-up restoration process, I developed a deeper understanding of the craftsmanship and artistry that went into creating these old clocks.

Piece by piece, I painstakingly assembled the clock, learning about the inner workings and mechanics along the way. It required both patience and dedication, but in the end, it was worth it. The clock not only became a functional piece, but a treasured symbol of my passion for antique wall clocks.

As I worked on my latest Junghans mantel clock refreshing the case and servicing the movement, I couldn’t help but reflect on the journey that led me to this point. Each clock I restore holds a special place in my heart, but that first Junghans clock will always hold a particularly special place. It was an affirmation of a lifelong passion for the timeless elegance of antique clocks.

The fascinating story behind the Crispi wall clock

The story behind the Junghans Crispi clock is the enduring power of objects that connect us to the past.

_{Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock}

In the midst of tragedy, there can be glimmers of hope and resilience. Such was the case with a Junghans Crispi wall clock that fell off a wall on Princess Court in North End Halifax on the fateful day of December 6, 1917. Despite the chaos and destruction caused by the Halifax Explosion, this clock managed to survive, albeit in a state of disrepair.

Following its century-long journey, the clock that had been treasured by the Halifax family for generations finally found its way into the hands of an avid antique clock collector.

Over the course of two months, I worked tirelessly to piece together the various components and restore the clock to working condition. It was no easy feat, but the end result was a stunning tribute to both the clock’s history and the resilience of the people of Halifax.

Junghans Crispi wall clock – from a clock-in-a-box to a clock that rocks!

In a series of articles documenting the restoration process, I shared not only the technical details of the restoration but also the personal connection to this piece of history.

June 6, 2023

Junghans Hunsruck roundtop mantel clock – refreshing the case

Junghans, a renowned manufacturer of high-end wristwatches today, acknowledges their significant role in the clock industry by providing access to their catalogs to anyone interested in researching their clock production since the company’s establishment in the 1880s.

This demonstrates the company’s commitment to preserving the history and legacy of their brand and allowing collectors and enthusiasts to gain valuable insights into the evolution of their clock-making techniques and designs over time.

The 1915 Junghans catalog identifies this clock as the Hunsruck, named after a mountain range in Germany, and provides its specifications as 28.5 cm in height with a mahogany or oak case construction, a 14-day run time, and a silvered dial.

While I haven’t yet had the opportunity to service the clock’s movement, I have focused my attention on refreshing the clock’s case, which is the main topic of this post.

This particular clock was originally offered in both oak and mahogany versions, and the one in my possession is the mahogany variant.

A comment on the finish

Despite my expectations that the finish would be consistent throughout the entire case, I have noticed a noticeable tonal variation between the base and the top, sides, and front of the clock. This observation leads me to suspect that the base may be crafted from a different type of wood than the rest of the clock.

We will have to wait and see if any measures taken will have an impact on the tonal difference between the base and the rest of the clock.

_{All brass is polished and after one coat of stain is applied}

Work begins on the case

I began by giving the case a thorough cleaning using Murphy’s soap. Following the cleaning, I applied a light coat of Mahogany stain from a company called Minwax, being cautious not to leave it on for more than the recommended 10-minute period to ensure the stain penetrated the wood correctly. After 10 minutes, I wiped off any remaining residue and gave it an additional wipe at the four-hour drying point.

After the initial staining, I observed that the base of the clock still had a tonal difference compared to the rest of the case.

Through previous experience, I’ve learned not to overdo the staining process, and often, one coat is more than sufficient. Despite this, I opted to apply a second coat of stain to the base only, intending to stop there, even if the tonal difference was still present. As a result there remained a subtle variation in the finish, perhaps only discernible to me. Nevertheless, I was very satisfied with the performance of the stain as it effectively concealed the scratches and nicks on the case.

For the final stage of the case restoration, my original plan was to use a product called Wipe-On Poly by Minwax but using a modern finish for restoring antique clock cases is not a conventional practice.

After careful consideration, I opted for a less intrusive approach by utilizing a finishing paste wax specifically designed for dark finishes, also made by Minwax (and no, I don’t have shares in the company). Clock cases were typically dusted, waxed, and polished during their time as part of routine housekeeping.

_{After one coat of finishing paste wax}

As always, my goal is not to restore the clock case to its original factory finish but rather to conceal any imperfections caused by wear and tear on the wood surfaces in order to enhance its overall appearance. The light refinishing effectively achieved the desired outcome.

The brass

To clean the dial, side door button, and ball feet, I used a cleaning and polishing product called Brasso. I was pleasantly surprised by the results since I had anticipated that removing years of accumulated dirt and grime would be a significant challenge. However, the Brasso worked remarkably well in restoring the brass clock case features to their former shine. I removed the ball feet by unscrewing them so that I could polish every part of them thoroughly.

The dial

Despite efforts to remove the blemish between the numbers four and five with Murphy’s Soap, which was clearly visible in the auction photo above, it was found to be impossible to eliminate completely. However, it is now slightly less noticeable. I initially assumed that it was dirt, but upon closer inspection, it turned out to be some sort of abrasion.

In sum

Restoring an antique clock case can be a delicate and challenging process that requires patience and attention to detail. By using a combination of cleaning and staining products, as well as conventional finishes it’s possible to bring new life to a piece that may have been neglected or damaged over time.

While it may not always be possible to eliminate every imperfection entirely, taking the time to restore a clock case to a semblance of its former glory can be a rewarding experience for both the restorer and the future owner of the piece. Ultimately, the care and effort put into restoring an antique clock case can help preserve its history and ensure that it remains to be enjoyed for generations to come.

May 19, 2023

Tick Talk Tuesday #47 Mason and Sullivan movement in a grandfather clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday is dedicated to addressing readers’ letters and comments related to clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. In cases where the comments and questions are particularly challenging, I seek advice from my fellow clock enthusiasts to provide the most accurate and helpful response.

DH writes

I am the executor of an estate and am dealing with a Grandfather clock that will be sold outside the normal auction process to one of the children. I have attached a picture of the clock and a description of the movement inside the clock. The clock was built by Hanson Heffler of Cherry Run, WV. He only built a couple of clocks and those were for family, so he is not a known clock builder. How can I get a valuation done for Estate purposes? What other information do I need to obtain? What fees will need to be paid to get the valuation? Any assistance you may provide is appreciated.

_{Custom clock with Mason and Sullivan movement}

My reply

You are certainly entitled to consult an expert to determine the value of the clock, however, let me offer a few words of advice.

I am not a clock valuation expert and cannot physically inspect its construction, repair status, and overall condition and any estimate I offer from information provided to me by email regarding the clock’s value would be approximate.

The clock appears to be from the 1970s to the 1980s. While the case is custom-made, as you say, the movement is sourced from Germany which was very common during that period. The clock movement may say Mason and Sullivan but the maker is Hermle of Germany. Mason and Sullivan simply put their stamp on it suggesting to the buyer that it is American-made. Whether a clock was custom-made or factory produced as in grandfather clocks from Howard Miller or Ridgeway during that period, for example, the practice was to install German-made movements which is not a bad thing since German-made movements are robust and reliable.

_{Movement is stamped Mason and Sulivan}

That said, many of these clocks are difficult to sell because nobody wants them for a number of reasons. One, they generally cost more to repair than they are worth. If the clock has not been serviced in quite some time, at the very least the movement would require inspection and oiling by a professional clock repair person. In addition, ongoing repairs and maintenance can add up over time. Two, they take up space. Homes are typically smaller today and space is often at a premium and the size of the clock often puts off buyers. Three, transporting and setting up these clocks can pose a challenge if the buyer lacks the familiarity with setup. Four, the clock has a period look and may not fit with the style of a modern home or may clash with other furnishings.

If the clock does not have a distinct history (provenance) or the maker is not highly regarded, its value will be significantly lower than the original purchase price.

Typically a clock of this style and vintage would fetch something in the neighbourhood of $500 to $600.

While it is recommended to seek the advice of an expert to obtain an accurate valuation of the clock, their estimate may not deviate significantly from the one I have given.

Hope this helps.

Ron

May 16, 2023

Unboxing the Junghans Mantel Clock: An anticipated Arrival

Junghans, a name that is well-known to clock collectors and repairers, is not the company it once was. In recent years, the company has established itself as a prominent manufacturer of high-quality wristwatches.

However, During the early to mid-20th century the German company had established itself as a prolific producer of wall, mantel, and tall case clocks. Collectors and enthusiasts highly value the company’s clocks for their superior quality, solid construction, and classic designs that have withstood the test of time.

Although I wasn’t actively seeking out a new Junghans clock to add to my collection, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to acquire this one at an attractive price. It now joins my collection of clocks, which includes two other Junghans clocks.

One is a bracket clock from 1911 (code stamped B11), and the other is an older wall clock from the turn of the 20th century. Both of these clocks are among the 21 clocks in my home that are run and maintained on a daily basis.

_{Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock} _{C. 1899}

As expected, the clock arrived safely after I chose to have it shipped to me instead of personally picking it up from the auction house, which is located two hours away from my home. I had confidence in the auction house’s ability to package the clock securely for safe shipping, as I have dealt with them in the past and they have always been careful with packaging.

Having received the clock, I can confirm that it is exactly what I expected it to be, with no surprises or unexpected issues. Checking its functionality, I wound both sides and it runs and strikes as it should.

A similar movement in my Sydney bracket clock is stamped with a code (B11) indicating its production year, which is two years before this one. The gong block in both clocks is also identical in appearance.

However, I will only be able to confirm if there are any other internal differences between the two clocks when I dismantle the movement for cleaning.

Is the blemish just above the number five a scuff mark or a permanent abrasion, or is it merely a buildup of dirt that can be cleaned off?

_{Crackling or alligoration of the finish}

The case of the clock appears dull and neglected, and I am uncertain as to the appropriate method for refinishing at this point, nevertheless, it is evident that the case’s appearance would be significantly improved with some care and attention.

A correction from a previous article

After believing that the pendulum attached to the clock was not appropriate for the movement, I replaced it with what I believed was the correct one. However, I discovered that the replacement pendulum did not reach down to the beveled glass port and the rod hook was opposite in orientation to the one that came with the clock.

Despite functioning well and keeping accurate time, it did not look suitable. After I posted an article on first impressions, sight unseen, A reader pointed out that they have the exact pendulum bob for their Junghans roundtop clock, which has now led me to reconsider my previous assumption that the original pendulum was not the correct one. Thank you, dear reader!

Now that I have confirmed that the clock is functioning correctly, it is time to proceed with the disassembly and cleaning process, which is evidently long overdue.

May 12, 2023

Junghans Mantel Clock: Initial Impressions Sight unseen

As a manufacturer today Junghans is not the same company that made mechanical clocks many years ago. In response to the demands and advancements in technology in today’s world, the company has undergone a transformation in its products. In recent years, the company has established itself as a prominent manufacturer of high-quality wristwatches.

_{B13 stamped on the movement plate indicates that it was made in the last half of 1913}

With a rich heritage in mechanical clockmaking, the company had established itself as a prolific producer of wall, mantel, and tall case clocks. Collectors and enthusiasts highly value the company’s clocks for their superior quality, craftsmanship, and classic designs that have withstood the test of time.

While I am not specifically searching for Junghans clocks, I have two other Junghans clocks in my collection. One is a bracket clock from 1911, and the other is an older wall clock from the turn of the 20th century.

As of this writing, my most recent acquisition is not yet part of my Junghans clock collection but here is what I know so far.

Based on the pictures obtained from the recent online auction where it was purchased, this unremarkable roundtop time and strike clock from 1913 seems to be in fair condition.

It is unclear from the auction photos whether the clock is made of mahogany or not, but judging from the photos its reddish tone suggests it is mahogany. Occasionally, the feet may be replaced with a different type but it is highly probable that they are the original brass ball feet.

One notable feature is the faceted glass port below the clock face, which allows the pendulum bob to be seen in motion.

_{The photo above shows an example of what would have been the original pendulum with a weight of 150g or 5.2 oz.}

The current pendulum is a replacement for the original unit, which was likely lost or misplaced. However, it is not a suitable match as it lacks the necessary weight and aesthetic appeal of the original brass pendulum.

The clock’s movement, which rests on a movement support piece, is a timeless time-and-strike design that was a hallmark feature of numerous Junghans mantel clocks during that era. The Junghans trademark is boldly showcased on the gong block.

When the clock was won at auction the delivery was arranged and I should have it in the next few days. The price? 55CDN plus buyers’ premium, taxes, and shipping.

It is assumed that the clock is operational, but its actual condition cannot be determined until it arrives.

April 11, 2023

Best clock acquisition of 2022

Well, it’s that time of the year. What is my best clock acquisition of the past year? You can decide for yourself and leave a comment but I will reveal my favorite at the end of the post.

As a clock hobbyist, I have had little difficulty locating interesting clocks and every year I have managed to find a winner or two. 2022 was no exception.

In the early days of collecting, time and strike vintage mantel clocks were my principal focus with the goal of taking them apart and making them work, an important part of my learning. Many of those clocks have been either sold or gifted. I have shifted my focus toward collecting interesting clocks, rare clocks, clocks that have a special provenance, and growing my collection of Canadian-made clocks.

My wife is my best clock finder. Our discussions may go something like this; “did you see that wall clock on Facebook/xxx auction house?”. “Let me see. Yeah, it looks good, what do you think? Make an offer?” and off we go. Sometimes I will accept the offer from the seller without negotiating because it is a fair price but there are times when a little wheeling and dealing takes place prior to the sale.

In no particular order, here are my finds for 2022.

Fusee gallery clock

The clock is also called a dial clock in England which is where it was made. There are no markings anywhere on the clock save an obscure trademark that I have been unable to identify. It is a time-only fusee clock with a 12-inch dial, a very common size. It might have had a chain drive at the beginning of its life but it now has a cable. I have not serviced this clock because I don’t know enough about fusee movements, particularly the method of preloading the powerful mainspring.

E N Welch marine clock

This 30-hour spring wound clock with a hairspring lever escapement simply tells the time. It was made in the 1870s and perhaps earlier. It has been serviced, bushed, and cleaned, but my challenge at the moment is setting up the hairspping. It will work but not well.

Hamilton clock co ogee

_{Hamilton time and strike ogee clock, Canadian made}

Acquired in the spring of 2022 this ogee clock was made in Hamilton, Ontario (Canada). The movement was serviced but the case challenged my veneering skills. It looks quite presentable now but was in poor condition when I bought it.

Jerome and Co. Rose Cottage clock

Quite honestly I was going to throw the case out after having serviced the movement. It simply looks too far gone. However, I have accepted the challenge of bringing back this clock to its former glory. So far it is a work in progress.

Jauch calendar clock

From a distance, this clock looks good but a closer examination reveals a cheaply made time-only movement and an equally inexpensive pine case. It is clear that this German company was attempting to cash in on the antique American schoolhouse clock that was popular in the 1970s.

Wag on the wall

This has a well-made German movement, possibly by Mauthe or Hermle. It is a time-and-strike weight-driven clock and keeps very good time. Its only negative is that it has a cheap 1960s look about it but the only thing missing is a bottom middle finial.

Sessions Grand Assortment

Perhaps the ugliest gingerbread clock ever made. The photo is the exact clock I worked on two years ago since the clock is apart at the moment and I have stripped down the case (a last resort).

Sessions Mission clock

I like this clock not only because it is a 10$ thrift store find but it has very nicely styled mission clock and it works very well, keeping decent time for a spring-driven clock.

Empire gallery clock

_{English gallery clock} _{with 10-inch dial}

I was hoping this was a fusee clock when I bid on it on an online auction in the spring of 2022 but it is a spring-driven 8-day clock with a fairly robust movement that was intended for commercial use, a store, an office environment perhaps.

Daniel Pratt Jr woodworks clock

I have a couple of Danel Pratt woodworks clock. Unfortunately, this one is missing its topper. Servicing woodworks movements takes special care and attention and I may tackle this clock in the spring.

Ansonia 30-hour parlour clock

I seem to gravitate toward 30-hour clocks. This is a time-and-strike clock and is in decent condition requiring only a few touchups.

My favorite?

Well, it has to be the time-only fusee which is probably why I subconsciously placed it first on the list. It well built industrial-strength clock that was designed to last for years. It looks great on any wall, is very quiet, and quite accurate which is what fusee movements are known for.

February 14, 2023

Gustav Becker 2-weight Vienna Regulator – 6 years later

One of my retirement gifts in 2016 was a 2-weight time and strike Gustav Becker wall clock. My wife had thoroughly searched eBay and picked what she determined to be the best gift for me considering a Gustav Becker wall clock had always been on my wish list. It was everything I had hoped for but the clock came with one hiccup and a pretty big one at that.

It was badly damaged in shipment. Finials snapped off, all glass was broken, weights were dented, trim pieces fell off, the brass dial bezel was bent, a bent gathering pallet and the movement was missing critical strike side rack and snail parts. I managed to obtain a few pieces from the seller which was not everything I required and also put in a damage claim with the postal service but received nothing from them.

_{The main case was largely untouched at least}

It was a good learning experience that taught me that one should avoid shipping a clock unless the shipper knows exactly what they are doing.

Where to start? At the time I was not sure how to approach rebuilding the clock. Do I set it aside for a later project or just dive into the deep end and learn as I go?

_{The original movement from 1902 is missing strike-side parts}

I decided to have a go at it. After gluing the parts back on, replacing the glass, sprucing up the case, and sourcing a new movement (the original 1902 movement was replaced with a 1917 movement made in the same Braunau factory) the clock was finally coming together and at the end of the three-month project, it taught me a few things about movement servicing, sourcing of parts and case repair.

My wife took a look at this clock the other day and suggested I write an update. She said that it still looked impressive years after. I put a lot of work into this clock and it appears to have paid off as it still looks great on my living room wall.

So, here it is, six years later.

October 31, 2022

Jauch time only calendar clock – first look

Jauch was related to one of the oldest Black Forest clock-maker families. The Gerbrueder Jauch company manufactured hall, wall, and mantel clocks and movements for the trade including those that were spring and weight operated. In late 1979, the company fell victim to a curtailed export limiting production. Gerbrueder Jauch GmbH eventually went bankrupt in 1986. The remaining stock was purchased by a leading clock/watch supply house in the USA.

The company was a respected supplier of relatively inexpensive but attractive clocks for the average home. This drop octagon schoolhouse-style clock is a prime example of an inexpensively made clock for the masses.

_{Drop octagon wall clock with the back panel removed}

The clock is 23 inches high, 15 inches across, and almost 5 inches deep, dimensions that are very close to the classic American schoolhouse clock made over 100 years ago. Rather than an oak case which is typically found in antique American clocks, the case for this one is a much cheaper pine.

This clock’s bezel is hinged at the top with a flip-up design rather than one that swings to the right which makes winding the clock a two-handed operation.

The clock has “Western Germany” on the bottom part of the dial and the movement which is also stamped July of 1979.

For all you history buffs, the Berlin wall was erected in 1961, and Germany was finally unified in 1989.

_{Standard Jauch time-only movement with calendar feature}

I have worked on Jauch time-only movements in the past but never one with a calendar feature. One interesting aspect is the distance from the dial face to the winding arbour necessitating a long #7 key which I do not have.

This one is not in working order. Laying it down flat will cause the escape wheel to run but once on the wall, it abrupting stops after a swing or two of the pendulum. I suspect the anchor escapement is way off or there is serious bushing wear in the top part of the train.

A friend spotted this clock in a local thrift shop for $1.65. Why so little? Thrift shops deal with a constant flow of donated items so any price charged is pure profit. Vintage quartz clocks usually wind up at the thrift shop but not many mechanical clocks do. This is a good find since there isn’t anything fundamentally wrong with the clock save for a scuffed-up case which can be easily remedied with a cleaning and a fresh clear-coat finish.

_{Western Germany; why not simply “West Germany”}

Unless there is something seriously wrong with the movement such as spring barrel bushing wear that I have seen on other Jauch movements, it should be an easy task to have this clock running again.

October 24, 2022

The Canadian Clock Museum – a must-see for clock fans and museum lovers!

A museum is an institution dedicated to the display of objects of lasting interest or historic value. A museum can display just about anything but The Canadian Clock Museum, located in Deep River, Ontario (Canada) focuses on Canadian clocks or clocks that have a Canadian connection.

Most are mechanical clocks as you would expect but the most extensive collection of (Toronto-based) Snider electric clocks is contained within its walls.

_{This Snider clock is located in the foyer of a Quebec City boutique hotel}

_{Display of Snider clocks in the entry foyer of the museum}

There are static displays that change very little over the years but Curator Allan Symons continues to acquire new and interesting clocks of all types and it seems that in the past two years some large hall and grandfather clocks have been added. Interesting, because they take up a lot of space and space is at a premium in this tightly packed museum.

Despite the museum’s diminutive size, there is a relaxing flow as one explores many manufacturers and thematic displays. It is easy to get lost in the history of the many clocks on display. There is just enough information on the description cards adjacent to each clock to keep the visitor’s interest without getting too deep into the weeds.

Many clocks come with interesting stories that Allan will happily relate but some histories are, unfortunately, incomplete. Clock collectors know that as clocks pass from hand to hand some or all of the history is lost forever.

The clock that intrigued me most in this, my seventh trip to the museum, is a top-of-the-line grandfather clock made by the Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto and donated to the museum. Founded in 1928 by Leopold and Sarah Stossel the Blackforest Clock Company and later the Forestville Clock Company was a prolific producer of clocks for Canadian Homes. Complete clocks were imported from Germany or movements were imported and installed in locally made cases.

The company continued as the Blackforest Clock Company until 1941 at which point the Second World War and the unfortunate association with Germany led to a name change to the Forestville Clock Company. During the war years, movements were sourced from England, France, and the US. As factories ramped up production Forestville resumed importing movements from Germany. Ed Stossel retired in 1979 and the company could not survive much longer without his leadership.

This imposing floor clock stands about 7 1/2 feet tall and is a majestic piece of mahogany cabinetry with carved bonnet and capitals, fluted columns, hand-painted moon dial, carved feet, and a large central finial over a carved head of a young woman(?).

The weights are cable wound by inserting a winding crank in the 3 arbours on the dial face. The case was not made in-house at the Blackforest Clock Co. but by a smaller firm specializing in grandfather clock cases (Westminster Time & Clock Industries from Scarborough, perhaps?).

However, the unique feature of this clock is the Westminster chimes on five tubular bells, one tube extending all the way to the inside bottom of the case. The chime hammers are driven by a large pin drum located on the top of the movement. The sound is not overly loud but melodious.

If you have but a casual interest in clocks there are other displays of interest, one of which is an old phonograph made by the Victor Talking Machine Company, Camden, New Jersey, USA) and sold as the Victrola brand by the Ormes Furniture Company Limited of Ottawa.

Victrola was a brand name for the many table and floor models made by the Victor Talking Machine Company starting around 1927. The new models promoted the latest recordings made via microphone for the first time starting in the mid-1920s.

The museum’s large floor model is one version of the Credenza model.

Starting around 1900, before electricity availability, records were both recorded and played back acoustically. Microphones and electric motors changed the music recording industry.

In the late 1920s, the Credenza was considered a state-of-the-art player for 78rpm records and it was available in either an electric version or a 4-spring wind-up. The museum has the electric version. The fidelity of this stand-up model is remarkable as it capably projects the music into a large room.

Allan played a 78rpm disc recorded in 1951 by Mary Ford and Les Paul, yes the same Les Paul of guitar fame. The song was How High the Moon and the Victrola filled the room despite the limitations of a steel needle (stylus) and an acoustic trumpet (folded 6-foot wood horn).

Not only is the museum worth at least a one-time visit for clock lovers but return visitors will always be rewarded with some new and, of course, fascinating additions.

However, if you are unable to visit the museum Allan will take you on a virtual tour that will no doubt pique your interest to come and enjoy the museum’s many offerings.

October 21, 2022

7 Clocks in my collection that have family connections

Seven clocks in my collection have family connections, not necessarily with my own family but clocks that I am able to trace back through families mostly in Nova Scotia (Canada). No names are mentioned. The stories are sad in some cases but interesting nonetheless.

Let’s begin.

Waterbury wall clock

When I was a child back in the 1950s my grandparents had one clock in their home, a Waterbury drop octagon located in the kitchen above the sink. It was the only mechanical devcie that made a sound in their home.

_{Waterbury shot drop} _{wall clock}, _{homemade case}

My grandfather was a veteran of the First World War and suffered from shell shock (PTSD) long after the war. His home had to be stone quiet with the exception of the time and strike Waterbury clock in the kitchen.

_{Not knowing much if anything about case construction} _{my cousin decided to screw the bezel into the case}

After he died my grandmother sold the house and moved in with one of my aunts. The clock went to one of my uncle’s kids. The original case was painted yellow to match my grandfather’s kitchen walls and either it was in poor condition or broken, and a new case was constructed by my cousin. He knew almost nothing about case construction but did the best he could. Because he did not know how to repair the movement the clock was stored in a barn for a number of years (chicken pecks on the dial face!). In 2020, he gave the clock to another cousin who was breaking up their home and asked if I would have it.

Rather than take the movement out of its homemade case and put it into something more appropriate I decided to leave it as is as the case with all its warts is part of the history of the clock.

Sawin Banjo clock from a collector in Wolfville NS

My wife found this weight drive time-only banjo clock on Facebook Marketplace. The photos were quite poor and I imagine the seller was not getting much traction on the ad. Knowing that it might be something special I made an offer, sight unseen.

_{Banjo clock} _{by John Sawin or one of his associates}

It had a few minor issues such as broken glass, and veneer losses but otherwise, the clock was intact including the original acorn finial.

I always ask the seller about a clock’s origin and in this case, the clock was from a collector in Wolfville, Nova Scotia. The seller said that her uncle had this clock as well as a number of quality clocks for as long as she could remember, perhaps 60 years or so but could not recall where the clock originally came from.

After researching this clock I discovered that it was made in or around 1840, in Boston and although unsigned has all the markings of a clock made by John Sawin (or one of his associates) an apprentice to the famous inventor of the banjo timepiece, Simon Willard.

Gilbert mantel clock Shawville

What attracted me to this clock was the condition of the case. For a 100+-year-old clock, it is in remarkably good condition.

The design is simple but graceful and of course, it would have been one of the cheaper clocks in the Gilbert line.

Despite the pandemic, people were still engaged in the buying and selling of clocks. This was another Facebook ad. The price was very reasonable. The clock was bought from a family in Shawville Quebec. A family member had passed away and all household items were sold off. The seller said her mother loved the clock and polished it weekly though it had not run for years.

Because the seller did not wish to have physical contact with me the clock was placed in a recycle container on the side of the highway for me to pick up.

Mauthe Horse crown

Most would call this a Vienna-style springer. Made in or about 1885 it had been in a family since I bought it from a former superintendent of schools about 6 years ago.

In the early 1980s, his wife brought the family clock over from Holland in a suitcase. It had been in his wife’s family for several generations previously. The gentleman’s wife passed away 10 years ago and had she been alive today I would certainly have learned a lot more about its history.

_{Mauthe Horse Crown with replacement bottom center finial}

The seller was reluctant to let this clock go since it was a happy reminder of his past life. But he was moving into the next phase of his life with a new partner and that meant divesting of furniture and other items. Like him, I think of life in phases.

The only issue was a missing bottom finial. I can only imagine that the finial had to be removed so the clock could fit in the suitcase.

Junghans wall clock Crispi

What happens when you get a clock in a box? Call it a collection of parts, pieces, and dust. To some, a box of clock pieces is discouraging but to me, it was a challenge.

This is an antique German Junghans time and strike spring-driven clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. There is no serial number on the movement which dates the clock to 1899 or earlier (in 1900 Junghans began to number their movements).

^{Fully restored Junghans Crispi wall clock}

This clock is a witness to the day of the Halifax Explosion in 1917. The result of the explosion from a munitions ship in the Bedford basin was apocalyptical.

This clock, owned by the seller’s wife’s mother caught the brunt of the blast.

_{Catalog photo of the Crispi, second from left}

The blast not only shattered the glass panels but heavily damaged the box frame. Most of the parts sat in a box for 100 years. Since the box frame was damaged beyond repair, the seller, an amateur woodworker, built a new frame made of oak some 35 years ago. He was at a loss as to how to repair the movement, put the project aside, and lost interest.

Wag on a wall

The style of the clock is a “wag on the wall”. It is a strange name but basically, it is a clock with the movement enclosed in a small case and with a pendulum and weights exposed. It is so named because the pendulum appears to wag on the wall like a dog’s tail.

My wife’s uncle was an internist (internal medicine specialist) in Newfoundland and practiced for many years but dementia and its attendant complications finally got the best of him. He spent the last 5 or so years in a locked ward of a residential facility for the elderly.

As part of his practice, he set up a home office where he would receive patients and consult with colleagues. In his office was a wall clock given to him by a former patient.

When he passed away his possessions were distributed among his family members with the clock going to his brother who, himself passed away this past year. Unfortunately, there was not much interest in the clock and it spent 15+ years in a Rubbermaid container in the basement of his brother’s home.

Ingraham Huron

The clock is Rosewood “Huron” Shelf Clock, by E. Ingraham & Co., Bristol, Connecticut circa 1878.

It has a paper-on zinc dial with a round glazed door and a lower glass access panel. It is a brass eight-day spring-powered movement, with a height of just under 41 centimeters.

Kienzle clock on display with Ingraham Huron — _{Ingraham Huron balloon-style shelf clock}

I asked the seller who was about 70 years old at the time, “what do you know about this clock?”. He extended his hand palm down out to about a meter from the floor and said, “I was this tall when I can first remember it in my grandmother’s home”. There is a penciled marking just inside the case indicating that it had been serviced by a person by the name of Hebb in 1944. The seller recalls a Hebb family who at one time lived in the Bridgewater area of Nova Scotia near where I purchased the clock.

He and his wife were in the process of dissolving their marriage and were selling off everything they own including many sentimental items.

Conclusion

I always make it a point to ask about the history of any clock I purchase. Sometimes, in the cases above I learn interesting things about the clock. In other cases, the seller knows nothing.

I wish I knew more about other clocks in my collection. Unfortunately many were passed on from seller to buyer and the history has been lost forever, but what stories some of them could tell.

September 19, 2022

Wag on a wall – servicing a well engineered movement

This wall clock was gifted to me in the spring of 2022. I have no idea who made the clock, there are no markings on the case or the movement. It was likely sold by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto in the 1960s and my guess, a Hermle movement. I could find nothing else about it online. I wrote an article in August with first impressions.

The style of the clock is a “wag on the wall”. It is a strange name but basically describes what it looks like it is doing, wagging its tail. A Wag on a wall clock is a clock with the movement enclosed in a small case with a pendulum and weights exposed.

From 1660 to about 1870, the wag-on-the-wall was a very common clock style. It is so named because the pendulum appears to wag on the wall like a dog’s tail. It is also a derivative of the English lantern clock (more closely to a converted one with a pendulum). It was eventually deemed not attractive enough to hang on the wall in many upscale homes, so wooden or glass and wooden cases were added. The long-case or grandfather clock evolved from this early wags-on-the-wall. Wooden cases were used to hide the unsightly weights and cast-iron pendulum.

The style did not disappear as many manufacturers continued making the wag-on-a-wall style clock to this day.

There were several clock assemblers operating in Canada up to the mid-1970s, and it was likely imported and assembled by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto.

It is a rack and snail movement possibly made by Hermle. The second wheel teeth are larger than one would expect so, a lot of thought went into the design of this movement. I have worked on similar movements in the past though this one is a bit different, specifically the arrangement of the hammer assembly, one main wheel is the reverse of the other, and of course, it is a weight-driven time and strike clock.

Based on my initial observations the movement looks fairly clean despite the tarnished brass but I am expecting minor wear issues commensurate with a 60-year-old mechanical clock.

Disassembly

I took a number of photos prior to disassembly. This is my regular practice and although I have worked on many similar movements though there are always minor intricacies that differ from manufacturer to manufacturer.

To remove the movement from its case, two slotted screws holding the movement to the seat board are released plus, the weight chains must be pulled out. To release the chains the weight hooks must be removed.

The rack and snail assembly, minute wheel, hammer assembly, escapement, and pendulum leader were removed initially and placed in a collection tray. What remained were the wheels and the lifting lever between the plates secured by four pillar nuts.

The gathering pallet arbour and the main arbour are pressure fit. So, when I separated the plates most of the wheels fell out, of course. It can be a challenge for first-time clock repairers but when one works on a few there is a certain logic to the placement and orientation of the wheels.

Assessment of the movement

Because there was generally little wear, I made three decisions. I elected not to separate the central arbour and did not pull the gathering pallet from its arbour. As a result, the plate with two arbours attached was placed in the ultrasonic. I did not disassemble the main wheels which were held together with pressure washers. The main wheel ratchets and chain teeth are in very good condition and the ratchet assembly worked as it should and there was no need to take them apart.

I cleaned up residual oil and dirt around the pivot holes, removed excess oil from the pates, inspected the pivots for wear, and placed all parts in the ultrasonic cleaner. Since I was using a smaller machine than my regular US cleaner, the parts were cleaned in three batches which took a little longer.

_{Older, less efficient ultrasonic cleaner}

I took special care drying the main wheels assemblies and ensured they were operating correctly after they were completely free of any moisture

My wife’s hair dryer came in handy but after cleaning and drying all the parts it fell off the table and broke. Sigh!

The pivots, which are in very good condition, are polished, the pivot holes pegged out and the next step is bushing work. Two bushings are required, the second wheel front plate and the centre wheel, back plate. There is minor wear on those two holes but why not address them while the movement is apart.

Reassembly

As with many rack and snail movements, most adjustments are made after the wheels are installed within the plates but three minor adjustments make the job easier and that is ensuring the gathering pallet is free of the rack, the stop wheel is in the 12 o’clock position and the hammer actuators are free of the star wheel. They must be between the star tips, if not, one of the hammers will catch on a star tip and stall the strike.

Testing

Once fully assembled the next step is installing the chains, weights, pendulum, and testing/adjustment. A small adjustment to the height of the pallets was made after which the clock ran well and continued to run well after 5 days. It is keeping very good time, as expected of a weight-driven movement as any clock that is powered by weights releases its power uniformly through its rated cycle.

Yes, it is a very plain-looking clock that reflects the style of the time (the 1960s) but it might grow on me.

September 5, 2022

Wag on a wall clock – does it wag?

As part of his practice, he set up a home office where he would receive patients and consult with colleagues. In his office was a wall clock given to him by a former patient.

His wife is currently in the process of moving to a smaller home, giving away what she could and since I have a keen interest in antique and vintage clocks she determined that the best place for the clock was in the hands of someone who could have it working once again. I did not have a clear idea of what she was giving me though I knew that it was a mechanical wall clock.

^{Quickly mounted on the wall to check things out}

The style of the clock is a “wag on the wall”. It is a strange name but basically, it is a clock with the movement enclosed in a small case and with a pendulum and weights exposed.

In the years between 1660 and 1870, the wag-on-the-wall was a very common clock. It is so named because the pendulum appears to wag on the wall like a dog’s tail. It was eventually deemed not attractive enough to hang on the wall in many upscale homes, so wooden or glass and wooden cases were added. The long-case or grandfather clock actually evolved from early wags-on-the-wall clocks. Wooden cases were used to hide the unsightly weights and cast-iron pendulum.

The style did not totally disappear as many manufacturers continued making the wag-on-a-wall style clock to this day.

There are no maker’s marks on the dial or the movement but it appears to have a Canadian connection. There were several clock assemblers operating in Canada up to the mid-1970s, and it was likely assembled by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto from parts sourced from West Germany but I will learn more as I continue my research.

The only markings on the movement are a serial or production number ending with 65 behind the pendulum leader and UW 7/29 (a date or other measurement) just above the aforementioned number. The year 1965 seems about right judging from the two-tone case tinting popular in the 1960s, The clock case is not particularly attractive today but such was the style at the time. I don’t think it will ever be my favorite wall clock.

It is a weight-driven rack and snail time and strike movement possibly made by Hermle, Mauthe or Urgos. I have worked on similar movements in the past though this one is a bit different, specifically the arrangement of the hammer assembly and the main wheels are reversed from each other.

_{The weights and pendulum are polished}

It is not apparent upon first inspection if the movement has ever been serviced. Rather than run the risk of further wear I plan to test it briefly before servicing the movement. The movement looks robust and well made but I am expecting minor wear issues commensurate with age when I open it up.

While it is largely intact the bottom middle finial is missing. Otherwise, the case is in very good condition for its age. I mounted it on the wall to check things out and yes, it does wag!

In an upcoming article, I will go over the steps in servicing this movement.

August 22, 2022

Oiling your mechanical clock – a quick guide

Like a car engine, oil is the lifeblood of a clock. A correctly oiled clock will ensure a long life. Oil is the “lifeblood” of the car engine; the same applies to a clock. Just as a car engine relies on quality oil to keep its moving parts running smoothly and efficiently, a clock depends on oil to reduce friction and wear between its delicate components, such as gears, pivots, and arbors.

Lubrication is essential to the efficient running of any mechanical clock movement.

_{German time and strike clock movement}

The primary purpose of lubrication is to reduce wear. Forming a protective film between moving parts enables them to glide smoothly against each other, thereby reducing resistance, improving efficiency, and minimizing energy loss.

Proper lubrication ensures smoother component operation, helping maintain accurate timekeeping by preventing irregular behaviour caused by increased friction. Additionally, it prolongs the lifespan of gears, pivots, and other moving parts by minimizing stress and wear.

A Quick Guide Including Some Dos and Don’ts

Avoid using spray lubricants like WD-40 on clocks, as they are unsuitable for precision mechanisms. WD-40 is a water displacement agent, not a true lubricant, and for that matter, spraying any kind of lubricant can harm the clock, especially since some parts, such as wheel teeth, pinions, and levers, must remain dry. Instead, use a specialized product like Keystone clock oil, specifically designed for clock mechanisms.

Clock pivot oil — _{Keystone clock pivot oil}

When applying oil, use a small amount—about the size of a pinhead—at each lubrication point. Tools such as a toothpick, small wire, needle dipper, or a clock oiler are ideal for precise application. Avoid over-oiling, as excess oil attracts dust, which can mix with the lubricant to form a paste that increases wear. Less is more, which means less of something—a smaller amount of it—can at times be better than a large amount of it.

Focus on oiling the following areas:

The pivots of all wheels and the anchor or lever arbor on both front and back plates. In clockmaking, a pivot is the slender, polished tip of a wheel or arbor (the shaft that supports and drives the wheel) that rotates within a hole or bearing in the clock’s plate. Pivots are critical components in the mechanism as they allow wheels and arbors to spin smoothly and with minimal friction.

The crutch loop where it contacts the pendulum rod. The crutch loop is a part of the clock’s crutch, a thin, typically metal component connected to the escapement mechanism. The crutch transfers the motion from the escapement to the pendulum, keeping it swinging back and forth.

The escapement pallets. The escapement regulates the release of energy from the clock’s power source (mainspring or weights) to drive the gear train and maintain the pendulum’s motion.

recoil escapement — _{Escapement pallet}

The clicks. The clicks are small, rotating components in a clock’s winding mechanism. They play a vital role in ensuring that the clock’s mainspring or weight-driven system remains securely wound and does not unwind uncontrollably.

Pulley axles on weight-driven clocks. In weight-driven clocks, the pulley axles are the central shafts around which the pulleys rotate. These pulleys are part of the weight system that powers the clock.

When to Oil

Oiling a movement without first disassembling and cleaning is not recommended unless, following a visual inspection, the mechanism is free of black oil and the pivot holes are simply dry. Otherwise, the addition of new lubricant to old will mix with the dirt and grime to form a grinding paste which acts as an abrasive, hastening pivot and pivot hole wear.

In short, if the pivots are dry and show no residue, a small amount of oil can be applied without the need for disassembly.

During servicing, ensure the mainsprings are oiled with specialized mainspring oil. Apply the oil by drizzling it along the sides of the coiled spring, allowing it to wick between the coils, and wipe away any excess.

When oiling, avoid dipping directly into the oil bottle; pour a small amount into an oil cup for easier application and to prevent contamination of the oil in the bottle.

Don’t leave the oil in a sunny window. UV rays will break down the oil and degrade its chemical structure over time. UV rays cause a process called photo-oxidation, where the oil reacts with light and oxygen. The degraded oil may become thicker, stickier, or form a residue, making it unsuitable for precise lubrication.

Cover the oil when not in use.

Routine Clock Inspection and Oiling

I inspect my clocks every 2-3 years if they run on a daily basis. If the movement is free of dust and the pivot holes are dry, I will apply fresh oil. If there is blackened oil around any pivot hole, it is time to disassemble the movement, clean it, and apply new oil once reassembled.

In the end, proper lubrication is less about how much oil you use and more about how—and when—you use it. A careful eye, a light touch, and the right product will do far more good than overzealous application. Clocks are remarkably durable when treated with respect, and with just a bit of routine attention, they will continue to keep reliable time for decades. As with most things in horology, patience and restraint are your best tools.

A New Resource Page for Clock Enthusiasts: Tools I Use for Clock Repair

Your Clock Has Stopped | Follow These First 5 Steps Before Calling A Clock Repairer

Clock parts suppliers that should be on every clock repairer’s list

August 19, 2022

Mainspring barrel tooth damage – how does that happen?

Something causes tooth damage. But what?

The example is a Fleet time and strike mantel clock from the 1930s. Fleet Time Company of Montreal, a company that was operating four short years, sourced movements from Germany prior to the Second World War. It was a very common mantel clock sold through department stores across Canada.

I like the step side design and the general simplicity of the clock.

The case was in need of refreshing but the movement looked to be in reasonably good condition and required a good cleaning and I was expecting some wear.

The movement was completely serviced with several new bushings installed. The mainsprings were removed, cleaned, and returned to their barrels.

In this movement, the mainsprings can be removed without disassembling the movement, handy for such things as replacing a broken mainspring assuming, of course that nothing else has been damaged.

During the testing phase, the mainsprings were partially wound. The intent was to see if the clock would run well. Once satisfied that the movement was running as it should I returned it to its case.

I wound the strike side fully and then wound the time side. Just as I was feeling resistance, CLUNK, the arbour turned freely. If it was a broken click or broken mainspring, either one could easily be replaced.

It has nothing to do with the force of winding a movement. Having a mainspring go bad with winding force from a key is rare, in my view.

But mainspring barrel teeth do not simply fall off.

At times it is a mainspring but sometimes something far worse occurs.

It is not uncommon to find secondary damage to the movement, secondary or collateral damage due to the extreme shock that broke or bent the teeth and teeth cannot be straightened.

The main problem area beyond the barrel itself will be the second wheel and possibly the third wheel arbors, leaf pinions and pivots and/or damaged or missing teeth on the second and third wheels and bent or broken pinions.

Fleet second time wheel — _{Fleet second wheel, a bent leaf cannot be unbent}

Is it fixable? Yes, but weighed against the value of the clock, it is just not worth it. It is much more cost effective to harvest parts from another movement.

Given the right equipment, it can be repaired. Once repaired a mainspring must be sourced and although the barrels may be identical, the mainsprings will likely be different.

The solution is locate a donor movement. In the meantime the clock has been put aside.

July 25, 2022

HAC mantel clock – it came without a crown – FIXED

I knew when I first laid eyes on the clock that it was missing something, the crown.

It’s too bad because it is very attractive Hamburg American Company or HAC 8-day time and strike mantel or parlour clock.

The little plaque on the base references 1926 the year it was presented to a pastor in England presumably for years of faithful service. I think the clock was made a few years earlier. Back in those days clocks like this might have sat on a Merchant’s shelf for years.

The chap I bought it from said it was an English clock but I knew right away that it was German. It has that distinctive German look and style of a clock made after 1900. Since he was a clock collector he should have known by looking at the trademark on the back of the movement. Oh well!

Okay, back to the crown. I have another HAC time and strike with a crown.

I am willing to bet that the crown on my new acquisition was either very similar or exactly like the one on a HAC I bought a year ago. It fits exactly into the slot on the top.

A crown makes a difference. You can see that adding a crown transforms the clock. It made be subtle but there is a difference. The problem I have now is, should I leave on this clock or the other?

June 27, 2022

Category: Germany

Servicing a HAC Clock Movement

PROFILE MY CLOCK: Empire-style anniversary clock from South Africa

Trouble Strikes Thrice: The Notion of Bad Luck in Threes

A tale of two mantel clocks – German vs American engineering

Disaster strikes a Junghans movement

Junghans round-top mantel clock – wrapping up servicing

Junghans round-top mantel clock – servicing the mainsprings

Junghans round top mantel clock servicing

The Philosophical Conundrum of Antique Clocks: When is a Clock No Longer Itself?

German Box Clocks: A Journey into Clockmaking History

My most recent Hunsruck Clock evokes memories of my first Junghans clock

Junghans Hunsruck roundtop mantel clock – refreshing the case

Tick Talk Tuesday #47 Mason and Sullivan movement in a grandfather clock

Unboxing the Junghans Mantel Clock: An anticipated Arrival

Junghans Mantel Clock: Initial Impressions Sight unseen

Best clock acquisition of 2022

Gustav Becker 2-weight Vienna Regulator – 6 years later

Jauch time only calendar clock – first look

The Canadian Clock Museum – a must-see for clock fans and museum lovers!

7 Clocks in my collection that have family connections

Wag on a wall – servicing a well engineered movement

Wag on a wall clock – does it wag?

Oiling your mechanical clock – a quick guide

A Quick Guide Including Some Dos and Don’ts

When to Oil

Routine Clock Inspection and Oiling

Related Articles

Mainspring barrel tooth damage – how does that happen?

HAC mantel clock – it came without a crown – FIXED

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A Quick Guide Including Some Dos and Don’ts

When to Oil

Routine Clock Inspection and Oiling

Related Articles

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