Category: antique clock

Anniversary clock repair – a replacement suspension spring

Let me start by saying that opinions on torsion clocks are divided—some people have great success with them, while others absolutely loathe them. Despite their seemingly simple design, they can cause endless frustration, which is why many clock repairers tend to avoid them. Fortunately, I seem to be one of the lucky ones.

Kundo standard size 400 day clock
The Kundo Standard size 400-day clock wound once per year

I gifted this clock to my daughter three years ago. She chose it for its intriguing visible movement and the convenience of running an entire year without winding. Recently, she moved across the country, and during the relocation, the clock “broke.” “Can you fix it, Dad?” she asked. “Leave it with me,” I replied.

400-day clocks, also known as torsion clocks, have been around for over a century. They were first produced in limited numbers in the mid-1890s, but their popularity surged after 1900. Between then and the 1980s, thousands were manufactured, becoming a favorite choice for wedding and retirement gifts—hence the nickname “anniversary clock.”

The Kundo model featured here dates back to the late 1950s or 1960s, during the height of production. However, with the advent of quartz clocks, mechanical versions quickly fell out of favor.

Kundo is a well-known name in the world of anniversary clocks. The name is a combination of Kieninger and Obergfell, a highly respected German company. Today, the company continues as Kieninger, operating as a subsidiary of Howard Miller USA.

Dial face Kundo Clock
Dial face, Kundo Clock

Servicing a 400-day Clock

To service a 400-day clock, I highly recommend using the Horolovar 400-Day Repair Guide as a reference. Can you repair a 400-day clock without it? Yes, but the Horolovar guide eliminates almost all the guesswork.

This particular 400-day clock is a Kundo Standard 53, which requires a .0032″ (0.081mm) Horolovar spring. If you don’t have the time or tools to assemble the suspension units yourself, Horolovar (or most clock suppliers) offers fully assembled units. However, these come at a significantly higher cost.

Section 10 of the Horolovar guide includes templates for various clocks. These templates provide precise patterns for positioning the fork and attaching the upper and lower blocks to the suspension wire, ensuring proper assembly.

suspension spring installed on a Kern
The suspension spring assembly includes the top and bottom block plus the fork

The screws on the suspension assembly are very small, so using a high-quality precision screwdriver is essential to avoid damaging them. The suspension spring is longer than needed and will require trimming to fit. Once the spring is securely attached to the fork and blocks, it’s ready to be reinstalled onto the movement.

Kundo anniversary clock movement
Kundo anniversary clock movement

The suspension spring assembly hooks onto the top cock and bottom weights or balls. A threaded thumbscrew on the top base slips into the top block. The bottom block has two pins to which the pendulum hangs. Next are the back spring cover and the locking guard.

Torsion clocks have pendulum locking systems that must be engaged even when the clock is moved just a few feet. Often, the result of an unlocked clock is a broken suspension spring. The locking guard on this clock is an earlier design and looks pretty flimsy in my view but it should work.

Once the spring assembly is installed on the movement it is time to test the beat. The beat should be 8 beats per minute and there should be ample overswing in both directions. A 270-degree rotation is healthy enough.

What makes the 400-day anniversary clock a great addition to a collection?

They are:

  • Relatively inexpensive to buy, although some models like Schatz and Gustav Becker are more sought-after and therefore more expensive.
  • Very quiet in operation.
  • Easy to disassemble, clean, and reassemble due to having few parts.
  • Slow runners, meaning wear is rarely an issue.
  • A fantastic conversation piece.
  • Long runners, with some lasting 400 days or more on a single wind.

What makes them less ideal:

  • Notoriously inaccurate timekeepers.
  • Can be frustrating to fine-tune at times.

Since I had previously serviced this clock, I was able to loosen the tiny screws on the blocks and fork with ease. Sometimes they can be tight and difficult to remove, but on this occasion, everything went smoothly. As of this writing, the clock has been running well for several weeks.

While it’s currently running slightly fast, small adjustments to the regulating dial will slow it down. However, there’s a limit to how much you can adjust, and it’s not a clock I would rely on for precise timekeeping.

Junghans bracket clock – first look

Junghans mantel clock on display

I found this German mantel clock on a local online buy and sell site. The seller had two clocks, one, a generic German-made Westminster chime and this, a Junghans bracket-style clock. I knew right away that this was the better deal. It appeared to be a higher quality clock compared to the other one. I offered a slightly lower price and the seller quickly accepted. He said he never had it running in the two years he owned it and added, “I got to get rid of it, I’m moving”.

Junghans bracket clock handle

During my search to find the model name or number I came across one listed on eBay at the time of writing and two others while browsing similar auction sites. None had the model name or number but prices are all over the map, ranging from $50 to $300. I still do not know the model name or number.

Although it has a carrying handle on the domed top and would be termed a bracket clock, let’s just call it a rather plain-looking mantel clock with a handle. When I envision a classic bracket clock I picture a clock with verge escapement, subsidiary dials over a signed dial housed in a gaudy case. Let’s call this a poor relation.

Junghans clock side view, not cleaned yet

The Regency style veneered mahogany case is in reasonably good condition save for a small piece of veneer missing on the bottom side front and replacement chrome feet which look decidedly out of place. It has not been cleaned in ages and scrubbing with soap and water removed a considerable amount of built-up dirt revealing a very attractive case.

The silvered dial shows some aging consistent with wear and caused when advancing the hands many times combined with the simple act of winding the movement arbors. The hands are original judging from other clocks like it. I may touch up the numbers and the hands in addition to giving the dial a cleaning to spruce things up a bit but we’ll see when I look at it further.

The dial catch, back access catch, and hinges work well. These often break from constant use.

Judging from scratch marks on the backplate, the movement has been worked on in the past. I won’t know the extent or quality of past servicing until I take the movement out of its case and examine it more closely. The movement has a maker’s stamp with B11 just below the mark. This refers to the approximate date of manufacture, the latter part of 1911.

Junghans time and strike movement

When I brought it home the clock ran briefly, stopped, and failed to proceed. It will need a thorough servicing and a few adjustments to get it running again.

Macro photography images and clock repair

Alarm clock mainspring close-up

How do you get those wonderful macro shots, a reader asked.

Polishing a pivot
Polishing a pivot, slow shutter speed emphasizing the speed of the lathe

Close-up of bushing wear
Extreme close-up of bushing wear (the black mark is an identifier – a bushing that needs work)

Photography easily becomes part of almost any hobby and in my view, a camera is essential for clock repair. Describing a process on paper is one thing but it cannot replace a well-crafted video or a series of detailed still images. A picture is worth a thousand words.

Having the right tool is also important. For optimum results, I suggest a dedicated camera with a good macro lens. Why? You can take wonderful pictures with a cell phone but cell-phones are very limiting because they have difficulty isolating the foreground from the background and have a hard time producing decent macro images.

I have a number of cameras, two Pansonics, a Fuji, and an Olympus E330. While the first three cameras are either new or relatively new the last, an Olympus E-330, made 14 years ago, is my go-to camera for macro work.

Bushing installed on escape wheel arbour
Close-up of a bushing installed on escape wheel bridge

At 7.5 mp it has more than enough megapixels and reducing the file for blog work makes for a particularly small but detailed file when server space is limited (as on a blog). I use artificial light on occasion but for the most part, rely on natural light from a west-facing window in my workspace. When artificial light is required, I rely on a continuous studio light and rarely use the on-camera flash.

Olympus E330
Olympus E330 with 50mm F2 macro lens

Paired with an Olympus 50mm F2 macro lens it is excellent for those very close clock shots and allows me to isolate my subject while maintaining a pleasing background blur.

New escape wheel bushing
New escape wheel bushing

After almost 15 years it works every day and I can still purchase CF memory cards and even aftermarket BLM-1 batteries. Simply put, I will use it until it goes to photography heaven.

Reverse side of punched bushing
The reverse side of a punched bushing, notice how the background is completely blurred out

The E330s best feature is its ability to activate a switch from automatic to manual focus mode and lock on an extremely close subject such as the above and below photos.

Looks like a large pivot hole but actally punched close to the hole
Looks like a large pivot hole but actually punched close to the hole, an example of subject isolation

Some clock repairers record everything on paper and to each their own, but for me, there is no substitute for a digital image. During any clock repair job, I will take dozens of photos from every conceivable angle. If I have difficulty reassembling the movement or am puzzled as to where a particular wheel, lever, washer, or spring should be positioned, my photos are my best reference. In addition, I catalog my images so that I can refer to them, days, weeks, or months later if need be.

My advice is simple, buy a good new or used camera with a dedicated macro lens for clock repair. It does not have to be the latest, greatest, and the most expensive but decent enough to give you good quality results. You will thank me.

Forestville mantel clock servicing – not fun when things go wrong! Part II

Forestville mantel clock

The face of Forestville bim-bam clock

Back in October (2020), I wrote about the challenges of working on this mantel clock by Forestville.

Recap so far

It is a nondescript Art Deco-style German mantel clock made in the 1960s sold under the Forestville name, a Toronto-based company that assembled clocks up to the 1970s.

The rack and snail movement is relatively simple to work on with all the adjustments, save for the stop wheel, on the outside of the plates. The mainspring barrels can be removed separately for servicing, typical of movements of the period.

An arrow pointing to the centre wheel

The hairspring escapement is something I did not attempt to clean. They can be finicky to work on and if the movement has been running beforehand, like this one, there is no pressing need to mess with it. Three screws detach it from the movement.

The bane of clockmakers – the broken pivot

When working with German and French movements particularly one must always be very careful of the small pivots. Normally when I work on this type of clock I am very aware of how easy it is to bend or break the tiny pivots and this clock was no exception. After taking apart the movement and reinstalling the gears to determine bushing wear I noticed the front plate center wheel pivot had come off.

Thinking I was careful guiding each pivot in place with a pivot locator I either applied too much pressure closing the plates or it was hanging on like a tread. Regardless, it broke. Compared to a pair of tweezers it is very small.

Broken pivot compared to a pair of tweezers

My experience with pivot repair is limited. I don’t come across broken pivots very often. Compared to an American clock that has much larger pivots these are tiny, perhaps 0.5mm or so. Although I have bushings that fit I do not have pivot wire that size and had to make do with a piece from my assortment of 0.85mm to 1.10mm wire. Not pretty but functional.

First, using a centring bit followed by a high-speed bit on my Taig metal lathe, I drilled 5mm into the shaft, enough to securely anchor the pivot wire. Once the wire was inserted, I applied high-strength Permatex Threadlocker Red to secure the wire in place.

A centring bit is essential when drilling a starting hole in an arbour.

After the 24 hour curing period for the adhesive, I installed a bushing in the front plate and put the gears back together to check the action of the new pivot. It is working okay. I will reserve judgment on the repair until the other bushings are installed.

There is more wear on the time side that at least 3 new bushings are required, two on the front plate and one on the back.

Out of an abundance of caution, I installed an additional 2 bushings. In total are T2, T3, T4, rear plate, and T4, T5, front plate. All bushings are on the time side which tells me that the strike side did not see much action, typical for many mechanical clocks since some folks find the noise of the strike bothersome.

2 new bushings on the front plate, new pivot in the centre of the photo (untrimmed)

3 new bushings on the rear plate using a Bergeon Bushing Machine

Servicing the mainspring barrels was more frustrating than I anticipated. Both mainsprings refused to catch on their hooks when I attempted to install them back into their barrels. The mainspring opening must be precisely on center to catch. Lesson learned; after a few tries, I successfully got them hooked back into the barrels.

Re-assembly

The new pivot was trimmed to fit and given a final polish prior to installation. Now to put it all together and see if the work has paid off.

I was especially careful putting everything back together and very mindful of how easy it is to snap off one of the delicate pivots. All went well. On the test stand, I ran the strike side through its sequence; it is going into warning and striking on the half-hour as it should. Now for the time side.

Repairing a broken pivot. Left on the lathe overnight to cure the adhesive and keep the pivot straight.

At first, the escape wheel would stop after a minute or so but after oiling the pivots including those on the hairspring (minus the jewelled ones, of course) it runs well.

Testing the Forestville movement on a non-standard stand

I will continue with the test of the movement but so far, after two 8-day running cycles, things are looking very good. The next step is to re-install the strike hammers and other moving parts and return the movement to its case.

Choosing a mechanical clock as a gift

It is that time of the year when you begin searching for that unique gift. Of course, there are a multitude of choices but have you considered a mechanical clock as a gift? Let me provide you with a few tips.

Gilbert mantel clock
Gilbert mantel clock

Mechanical clocks harken back to the old days when life was simpler; no mobile telephones, no internet, and no streaming TV. Ah, those were the days!

Okay, so you are reasonably sure that a mechanical clock would be appreciated by the receiver. What to buy? There are a plethora of choices out there and certainly, clocks that would fit every budget from the simple and cheap American kitchen clock to a rare 19th century Boulle figural French mantel clock. Let me attempt to narrow your choices, not with a specific clock but a buying strategy.

Mechanical clocks appeal to those who enjoy the sound, the strike of a clock, or those who merely appreciate it as part of their decor. These factors will influence your choice as a gift.

Here are two examples of clocks I have gifted to my family. My son and his partner have a German Schatz W3 bracket clock in a custom case. It is in excellent mechanical in running condition but it stays quiet on their shelf. Nevertheless, it is the centrepiece for their fireplace mantel.

Schatz W3 in a custom made case
Schatz W3 in a custom made case

My daughter has a Sessions Raven 8-day mantel clock which sits atop a bookcase in their family room. It only runs when my wife and I visit.

Sessions Raven clock
Sessions Raven clock

But they love their clocks.

The following two categories might assist you in your decision to buy a clock for your loved one, a friend, or a business associate.

Category 1 – Those recipients who appreciate a running clock

You will want to avoid a non-working clock. Unless you have the skills in clock repair or know someone who can work on it, it is best to steer away from those. Many sellers use the phrase, “may need some adjustment” which is almost always a red flag for a clock that has issues. These are the cheapest clocks, and for good reason, they are simply worn out.

You may also get lucky and find that special mechanical clock that has been recently serviced and is in good running order but you will pay more because the seller is interested in recouping their investment in the clock.

Buying a clock from a reputable clock repair retailer is a good bet if the clock has been serviced and a warranty is provided but expect to pay significantly more.

Otherwise, there are many buy and sell online sites. I would shop locally and avoid eBay or other online auction sites. Auction sites are a real crapshoot complicated by high shipping costs and the risk that the clock might arrive broken. Yes, that has happened to me!

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, 15-day, double spring time-only

The sound of a ticking and striking clock in a room is very soothing for some. For others., not so much

Most clocks are 8-day running which means that they must be wound once per week. There are some quality 15-day and 30-day clocks but they are few and far between.

Daniel Dakota wall clock, one of Tempus Fugits more popular models
Daniel Dakota wall clock, made in China

Of the 30-day clocks avoid anything made in China. While 1-day clocks such as Cuckoo clocks and antique Ogees are plentiful and look terrific, winding a clock every day wears thin after a while.

George H Clark 30-hour ogee clock
George H Clark 30-hour or 1-day ogee clock

Check out this post on how to buy an antique clock.

Category 2 – Those recipients who want a mechanical clock as a decoration

Then, there are the folks who are not really that interested if the clock runs or not but want something that fits their decor and is a good conversation piece. A non-working clock with a good case is perfect. If it has the original movement but it is not working there is always the option of fixing it later. Personally, I would shy away from any clock that has its mechanical movement replaced with a quartz one.

Focus on the condition of the case. Is it missing any parts, has recent work been done it, does it look authentic? Does it catch people’s attention?

For example, here is a very attractive Seth Thomas 8-day round top in a bold Rosewood case that has had only one minor veneer repair and a replacement dial face, but it looks great!

Seth Thomas round top
Seth Thomas round top

You bought the clock but the case is very dirty. Clean it! Some folks might argue that one should not clean a clock case so as to maintain it’s original patina. But, isn’t patina just another word for dirt? Soap and water with gentle scrubbing will make a huge difference. Check out this before and after photo of the cleaning of a clock face.

Junghans clock dial
Junghans clock dial before cleaning

Junghans clock dial after cleaning
Junghans clock dial after cleaning with soap, water, and Q-tips

And this before and after photo of a gingerbread clock. You need not want to go the extra distance in retouching the dial but soap and water is an easy and non-invasive method of improving the look of the case itself.

Very grimy clock case especially the base section

After photo showing a clean case and a retouched dial
After, showing a clean case and a retouched dial

Final words

A mechanical clock makes an excellent gift and it is something that can be passed down from one generation to the next. My kids appreciate a mechanical clock from their dad and I will gift them one that is in excellent mechanical condition but I am not bothered if they use it merely as a decoration.

Approaching 200,000 views and 58,000+views so far this year

Clock face Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock

In my home, I have a dedicated room to work on my clocks

Five years ago I attended a workshop on WordPress at our local community college. It taught me more about blogging than I ever knew. The idea of a clock blog intrigued me but it is a lot of work, there is much learning and it was not something I wanted to design from the ground up but WordPress came to the rescue. It has an easy-to-do template approach and the only task was providing the content. So, I began the journey of documenting my horological interests and experiences.

The first few months were discouraging. I had very few views and likes which seem to be the lifeblood of many blogs. There is a strong blogger community out there and once connected to that community you get a feel for those sites that are quite successful and offer terrific content and those that quickly run out of steam.

A computer is not only essential for clockwork but it is the tool I use to compose my blogs

It takes time and patience to build a strong audience. It is also a healthy practice in blogging to follow other blogs and support their content and I am seeing a lot of excellent content.

Clock collecting and repair is a passion but I struggle with my writing and try to envision what my audience would like to see in my posts. Writing is not my forte but years working in academia had taught me to convey my thoughts on paper for my students in an effective way. I took notes on what other bloggers were doing, what made their sites engaging so as to improve my writing.

Contentwise, my intention was never to satisfy expert horologists and those in the clock repair business though I certainly don’t mind if they drop by from time to time, make comments, and offer their perspective. I consider myself a clock repair generalist and judging from my mail I seem to appeal to those who are amateurs like myself and those who have stumbled onto my site looking for advice and guidance on clock collecting and repair.

As a self-taught horologist and over the last 11 years, I have gained knowledge and experience working on a wide variety of mechanical clocks. Cabinet or case restoration is also an interest. I do not operate a clockmaking business and I am not a clock vendor though I will sell the odd clock locally to manage my collection.

I have received many comments. Some offer suggestions and advice on projects I am working on while others are looking for direction on their particular clock problem. I provide whatever assistance I can and within my scope of expertise.

Testing in the clock case rather than on a stand
Testing an ogee movement

Stats – the lifeblood of a blog

Like it or not, statistics are the lifeblood of a blog. I receive over 200+ views per day. The top 6 viewers are in the USA, Canada, United Kingdom, Australia, South Africa, and Germany.

Writing articles well in advance and scheduling publication dates help with blog planning particularity when I am vacationing and cannot find the time to write.

Time and strike parts
Time and strike parts separated

My regular features, Tick Talk Tuesday, Crazy Clock Ads, and What Is This Thing For look at the lighter side of clock collecting and repair.

If you are new to my blog, welcome, there is plenty to read. If you are a regular viewer, thank you for supporting me and if you have any ideas for future articles let me know.

The essential clock repair library according to Antiquevintageclock.com

Whether you are working on your first clock movement or have repaired dozens, instructional resources, I believe, are essential. There is only so much information gained from a YouTube video (sadly some information is plain wrong) or how-to instructions online and there comes a point in time when you simply must have more detailed information.

An example of a Canadian made gingerbread-style clock

Opinions vary as to what constitutes an essential clock repair library but in this post, I will present those resources for the novice in the clock repair world and for those of you who have taken further steps in your journey.

Most of my work is with American and Canadian clocks, though some are German, some French, and of course, some British. Here are my go-to books starting with the Steven G. Conover series.

My Four Conover books (or manuals) are:

  • Clock Repair Basics
  • Striking Clock Repair Guide
  • Chime Clock Repair
  • Clock Repair Skills

Conover is very hands-on with plenty of diagrams and detailed step-by-step instructions. He will walk you through the repair of a broad range of clocks while discussing trouble areas, repair how-tos and challenges.

I am always on the lookout for clock repair books but sadly most of what I have has gone out of publication years ago although some can be found in the sections of used books on Amazon

 

Next are my Laurie Penman books.

They are;

  • The Clock Repairer’s Handbook
  • Common Clock Escapement

While some of his descriptions are quite technical and more targeted towards advanced clock repair he explores the basics as well.

Working with Anniversary or 400-day clocks requires the Horolvar 400-day Clock Repair Guide. 400-day clocks can be quite finicky and you are asking for trouble if you do not have this resource. The perfect companion is Mervyn Passmore’s book entitled Anniversary Clock Adjusting. It is a little short on depth but simple and to the point.

Horolovar 400 Day Clock Repair Guide
Horolovar 400 Day Clock Repair Guide

Next are three books by Philip E. Balcome

  • The Clock Repair First Reader – Second Steps for the Beginner
  • The Clock Book – An Overview of Heirloom and Contemporary Clocks in the American Home (not a repair book per se but a guide to identifying clock parts, types, styles, and trends)
  • The Clock Repair Primer – The Beginners Handbook

Balcome books are easy reads and are targeted for beginners and more advanced repairers as well.

Canadian John Plewes’s Repairing and Restoring Pendulum Clocks is an excellent resource for Canadian homegrown clocks. He explores specific clocks, describes repair challenges as well as provide tips and tricks on a number of clocks from not only Canada but all over the world.

Extreme Restoration By T. E. Temple should be in everyone’s library. Temple explores everything from evaluating a project, clock case refinishing, restoring glass, and tablet renewal. His how-to step-by-step instructions are easy to follow. Although the photos in his book are black and white to reduce cost, a companion website provides colour photos.

Though not directly related to clock repair the Home Machinist’s Handbook by Doug Briney explores bench tools, home lathes, Milling machines, treating and finishing the final product.

Temple and Briney books

I am always on the lookout for clock repair books but sadly most of what I have has gone out of publication years ago although some can be found in the sections of used books on Amazon. I  scour used book stores and flea markets to grab pretty much anything I can find.

Although I do not have any of Tran Duy Ly’s excellent reference books I am always on the lookout for them. Of course, they are not about clock repair specifically but they are great resources for identifying the many models and types of clocks from dozens of makers over the years.

A typical reference in Tran Duy ly’s Ansonia clock book

Well, there it is, my essential library of clock repair resources. Of course, there are many other resources and if there is anything else you feel should be on this list, let me know.

Organize your clock collection with a spreadsheet

Gilbert Notes

“How do you keep track of the work you do on your clocks?”, asked a reader. Read on and I will explain the method I use and one that may work for you.

With over 100 clocks in my collection, it is hard to remember what service I performed on a particular clock, when a repair was completed, where I bought the clock, the original purchase price, and the date acquired. I had to have a method of organizing that type of information that was both easy to access and gave me data at a glance.

Don’t have MS Office or refuse to pay for it, try LibreOffice and its spreadsheet called “Calc Spreadsheet”. It’s free!

My practice is to check the condition of every clock in my collection every 3-4 years and some more often. During the inspection process, I note any issues to be addressed, remediate at that time, or plan a time to service the movement/make a repair. If there are no issues I simply apply clock oil to the movement (assuming it requires lubrication) and record the date the work was done.

clock oiler

Without a method of tracking inspections, repairs, and other pertinent information I would have to rely on my memory or notes I may have taken at the time. At first, I used a notebook but I would forget where I put it, could not read my own writing, or simply forgot to record data. I am sure that some of you rely on notes or scribblers to record information and find that method to be reliable but it doesn’t work for me.

I had used Microsoft’s productivity software, Excel in my former work life, was comfortable with it, understood its power, its ease of use, its ability to be customizable, and found that it is an excellent method of organizing information in a form that is readily accessible. And so I went about setting up a spreadsheet for my clock collection.

A computer is an integral part of my workspace

Spreadsheets can be intimidating because they seem complex and there is a bit of leg work setting one up. You need only master the very basics of the program and there is no need for intricate formulas unless they are required. Excel and similar productivity programs are powerful products and are an excellent method of tracking and recording information. When combined with cloud storage I can access my spreadsheet from any computer, phone, tablet, etc. at any time. If I am on an extended vacation where I acquire, sell, or service new clocks I can access my spreadsheet and update information on the fly.

So here it is.

My file, “Clock collection valuation and service schedule” contains the following information for each clock in my collection as well as clocks that I have said goodbye to.

  • Maker,
  • Model or type,
  • Country of Origin,
  • Motion type (time-only, time and strike, time strike and chime),
  • Original purchase price,
  • Current Value,
  • Year of manufacture (or approximate),
  • Date acquired,
  • Sold or gifted (I try to cover my original purchase as much as possible)
  • Service date,
  • Date oiled,
  • Notes (general state of movement, problem areas (case or movement), repairs required, bushings installed, new parts, etc.)

This is an example of a small section of the spreadsheet.

A spreadsheet has worked well for me for the past several years and it is a great way to record the required information on each clock in my collection. It is both quick and easy to see at a glance what work I have done on a particular clock and meets all of my data recording needs.

Don’t have MS Office or refuse to pay for it, try LibreOffice and its spreadsheet called “Calc Spreadsheet”. It’s free!

Forestville mantel clock servicing – not fun when things go wrong! Part I

Forestville mantel clock
Forestville mantel clock

This post is about a mantel clock made by the Forestville Clock Company of Canada and some challenges servicing the movement.

In 2013 we were on a visit to the Thousand Islands and stopped at an antique store in Gananoque, Ontario. As my wife and I were strolling through the store and she noticed this mantel clock made by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto. Somewhat plain in style it seemed to be in great shape and it was exactly what we were looking for at the time.

History of the Blackforest Clock Co. and Forestville Clock Co. of Toronto

The Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto, Ontario was founded by Leopold and Sara Stossel in 1928.  Both clock movements and complete clocks were imported from Germany and sold through department and jewelry stores across Canada. Their son Ed Stossel started working part-time with his parents’ company in the 1930s and later became a full-time employee in the late 1940s.

Some assembly work was carried out in their Wellington Street East factory. Initially imported mantel clock and grandfather clock movements were installed in cases made in Kitchener (home of the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company), but later the complete mantel clocks were imported from Germany. This arrangement was interrupted by the Second World War, which also led to a name change to the Forestville Clock Company in 1941.  During the war years, the company imported its clock movements from England, the United States, and France. However, starting in the mid-1950s German factories again became the source of most Forestville clocks, with Mauthe being a major supplier.

The Forestville Clock Company was very successful during the middle decades of the twentieth century. Its grandfather clock cases and some of the wall clock cases were made in Canada. Ed Stossel retired in 1979 and unfortunately, the company survived just a few more years without his leadership.

Most Blackforest and Forestville mantel clocks still have their paper labels tacked inside the back door. This one does not.

My Forestville mantel clock

This clock movement and case are imported from Germany in the 1960s. There is a serial number on the backplate but no database exists online to date this clock. I am thinking that the  movement is made by Mauthe

The pivots and bushings appear to be in good condition at first inspection. The clock keeps good time and there is a simple speed adjustment on the hairspring escapement to regulate the clock. This mantel clock is handsome, has good lines and reflects the style of the period.

Servicing the movement

After 7 years I have put off servicing the movement far too long. The rack and snail movement is relatively simple to work on with all the adjustment wheels, save the warning pin, on the outside. The mainspring barrels can be removed separately for servicing, common for movements of the 60s,

The hairspring escapement is something I will not attempt to clean. They can be finicky to work on and if the movement has been running beforehand, like this one, there is no pressing need to fool with it. It is well protected by a plastic shroud. Three screws unhook it from the movement.

While there is some wear on the time side I see at least 3 new bushings required, two on the front plate and one on the back.

Hairspring escapement

When working with German and French movements one must always be very careful of the delicate pivots. Normally when I work on these clocks I am aware of how easy it is to bend or break a pivot and this clock was no exception. However, I had the movement apart and was reinstalling the gears to determine bushing wear and went about repositioning the center gear when I noticed its centre cannon front plate pivot had sheared off.

Arrow indicates center wheel with broken pivot (strike barrel removed)

I was not even aware that I was putting undue pressure on the pivot as I was carefully guiding each pivot in place with a pivot locator. However, either I applied too much pressure or it was ready to go because I broke a pivot. To give a sense of how small it is, here it is beside a pair of tweezers.

Broken pivot

My experience with pivot repair is very limited. This is not like a broken or worn pivot on an American clock which is less challenging to repair because they are simply much bigger. This pivot is small, perhaps 0.5mm or so. Although I have bushings that size I do not have pivot wire that small and had to make do with a piece from my assortment of 0.85mm to 1.10mm wire.

Repairing a broken pivot, pivot wire is glued in place and left on the lathe overnight

I centred the arbour with a centring bit and then using a high-speed bit, drilled to about 4 or 5mm into the shaft, enough to anchor the pivot wire. Once the wire was inserted, I used high-strength Permatex Thread Locker Red to secure the wire which takes 24 hours to cure. The next day I installed a bushing in the front plate and put the gears back together to check the action of the new pivot. It is working okay. I was not convinced the repair would work but I will reserve judgment until the other 3 bushings on the time side are installed.

Can’t wait to find out if the repairs are successful? It’s a long wait but on November 25th, I will present the results.

The antique clock and the dilemma of identity

The antique clock and the dilemma of identity. Some may feel this is much ado about nothing but discussion on identity and antique clocks tends to prompt a lot of debate. Let me explain.

Let’s say you are looking for that particular antique clock and you think you have finally found it. The photos look great and the description hits all of the boxes on your list. Let’s assume you found it locally and are meeting the seller soon to close the deal. You arrive, they present the clock and you notice things that are not quite right with the clock. The clock you thought was an authentic antique has been changed over the years and the seller may or may not even be aware of the changes. If the clock has been changed is it an antique in the truest sense of the word. You walk away feeling that too much has been done to the clock and continue your search.

A clock collector might have the opinion that if too much is done to restore a clock it is not fundamentally the same and cannot be considered original even though the new parts were made from the same materials using similar methods when the clock was first made. An antique shopper who knows little about clocks might not be bothered by the changes if the clock “looks” original.

Another might have the opinion that changes or alterations to the clock that bring it back to its original look and function including the making of new parts make it more “original” and therefore more desirable. But has the clock changed its identity during the change process and is it less original if it has undergone restoration?

Here are some examples.

From This.

Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock
Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock that some would have thrown out

To this.

Not perfect but saved from the trash heap

From this.

Junghans clock in pieces
Junghans Crispi wall clock in a parts box

To this.

Junghans Crispi wall clcok with compensating pendulum
Junghans Crispi wall clock resurrected from the grave

If one replaces one part at a time on a clock so that at some point all parts are replaced, at what point does a clock no longer become the same clock? It follows that if you take all of those parts and make a “new” clock which of the two clocks is original? What is the nature of the clock’s identity since no two objects can occupy the same identity? This is an example of a thought argument that raises the question of whether an object that has had all of its components replaced remains fundamentally the same object.

I was working on a clock recently that was said by its owner to be an antique. At first glance, it looked original. The case was a little tired, the movement looked like it was cared for or at least properly serviced at some point in its life. As I began to examine it more closely I discovered several anomalies. Although the movement was the “correct” maker as the case, the movement was taken from a kitchen clock and slightly modified to fit the case. Is this clock still an antique or has it strayed too far away from the definition of an antique because it is a “marriage”

People pay for originality. For my money, I prefer a well-cared-for clock in original condition. I will take a second look if it has been tastefully restored or repaired and know that it is better than having it trashed or perhaps parted out. However, I would not expect to pay as much for a “changed” clock”

If a clock is overly restored how should it be valued? I am not against conservation or restoration but if a clock was two steps away from a garbage can is it less valuable if restored?

There are no clear answers. There will always be buyers who demand originality and those who overlook certain changes. Is this much ado about nothing?

Ansonia Syria parlour clock – Part II

Over the summer of 2020, I was asked to service a friend’s clock. It is an attractive machine-carved oak Ansonia Syria parlour clock in the popular Arts and Crafts style of the late 19th century.

Ansonia Syria

It has great sentimental value to my friend but she recognized that it was in need of adjustment or repair. It had been in her late husband’s family for a number of years and she wanted it to preserve it as a reminder of his life.

This is Part II of a two-part series. My general comments and first impressions are found in Part I which you can find here.

It is an attractive clock in relatively good shape for its age. From my research, I have determined that it was made sometime in the early to mid-1890s.

Time and strike movement with an 1882 patent date

In this post, I will continue with disassembly, cleaning, general comments about the condition of the movement, and any potential trouble spots.

Dis-assembly and servicing the movement

The movement is held in the case by 4 screws. Once out of the case the first order of business is to restrain the mainsprings with mainspring C-clamps before separating the plates. Safety is paramount; those springs are powerful.

Although C-clamps are the round type in the following photo I prefer flat clamps for most American movements. Either will do but flat clamps are perfect for tight spaces.

Olie Baker spring winder
Olie Baker spring winder

After disassembly, my Olie Baker spring winder was put into action to unwind the spring, inspect it for cracks, surface rust, or any other issues.

Each mainspring is stretched out and cleaned with a Scotchbight pad and WD-40. It is carefully wiped down leaving no trace of the WD-40 and placed in the ultrasonic cleaner for 20 minutes. Once out of the ultrasonic cleaner, you must work quickly to dry and clean the mainspring. Rust is insidious and will creep in quickly.

The mainsprings looked very good and once cleaned and carefully inspected I have no hesitation reusing them.

A mainspring is cleaned, oiled and returned to its arbour

I applied a drop of Keystone mainspring oil on each of the coils, wound the spring several times to spread the oil. Once the C-clamp is re-applied and hooked on to the arbour, the excess oil is wiped away. The clicks are in good shape, sometimes a weakness in American movements. At this point, there is nothing more to be done to the mainsprings until the movement is assembled, so, let’s put them aside.

I try to minimize wrestling with American time and strike movement so that once I have the top plate on I loosely attach the bottom two screws and move to the time side because the strike side wheels and levers can be the most frustrating to position correctly and are left to the last

Everything is ready for the next step

I inspected each of the wheels and pivots for wear and found everything including the lantern pinions to be in generally very good condition with one exception. There is minor wear on the flywheel lantern pinions but not enough to warrant replacement at this point.

I usually put the time and strike gears and pretty much everything else in one or two containers. When you have done many movements you learn to quickly identify the location of each component. I can take out any wheel or lever, for example, and identify its specific location. However, if you are just starting out or have not built up enough confidence I highly recommend separating the two sides. In the early days of clock servicing, that is exactly what I did.

I was curious to find that a past repairer scratched “S” (for strike) and “T” (for time) on each one of the wheels according to their location. I understand why but esthetically it does not look good. However, marking the mainspring arbours came in handy. I make it a point to return each mainspring on the arbour they came from. In most cases, the mainsprings are the same length and thickness but every now and then I come across two different sizes. Better to be safe than sorry. That aside the movement appears to be in good condition.

A bushing is marked for replacement

Once the parts are cleaned and dried and the pivot holes are pegged it is on to the next step, pivot polishing. I use a #11 Emory board to polish pivots. I secure each of the wheels in a 3-jaw chuck on my Taig metal lathe and move the Emory boards in an up and down motion to polish the pivots.

Taig lathe at its slowest speed setting

Following the polishing, it is on to any bushing work that may be needed. In the case of this movement, two bushings were needed, the second wheel, front plate and the fourth wheel backplate. Here, a new Bergeon brass bushing is pushed into the bottom plate.

New Bergeon bushing. Notice the fixed lifting lever, lower left

Movement Re-assembly

And now for re-assembly and testing.

Since the lifting lever is attached to the bottom plate and is otherwise immoveable the count lever is the only component that has to be put in its correct location.

I try to minimize wrestling with American time and strike movement so that once I have the top plate on I loosely attach the bottom two screws and move to the time side because the strike side wheels and levers can be the most frustrating to position correctly and are left to the last.

All is ready for the top plate

Once the time side wheels and the hour gear are in place I attach the third screw and then work the wheels and levers into place on the strike side. Once everything is in place I tighten all the screws. A pivot locator is your best friend when re-assembling any movement.

Pivot locator

On the first attempt, I was not able to synch the strike side locking wheel (sometimes you get lucky the first time) but I mounted the movement on the test stand overnight to check out the time side and the next day it was running as expected. The locking wheel pin needs to be adjusted but that can wait till tomorrow.

One issue raised its head after re-assembly. The strike side gears were not moving at all. I tested each gear and found the flywheel (governor) was sluggish and had no end shake. It freed up if the nut nearest the flywheel was loose enough. The reason. A past repairer installed a bushing that was too tall for the plate. End shake allows freedom of the movement when the plates are screwed tightly down. I filed down the protruding bushing on the inside of the plate and the strike side then ran smoothly.

On the test stand

Next day

Now to open up the top part of the strike side to reposition the locking wheel. Safety first. I restrain the mainsprings just in case the whole thing explodes. I re-positioned the stop pin so that it is resting on the stop lever and presto, everything is working as it should.

I would like to refresh the case but the owner left strict instructions to leave it as-is.

Ansonia Syria parlour clock – a favour for a friend – Part 1

Ansonia Syria label

Over the summer I was asked to service a friend’s clock. It is an attractive machine-carved oak Ansonia Syria parlour clock in the popular Arts and Crafts style of the late 19th century.

”my poor clock needs a good servicing and cleaning. It runs slow, eg. I set it and would it on Sunday and by Friday it’s about 14 minutes slow, about 2-3 minutes per day, and it needs new hands”

It has great sentimental value to my friend but she recognized that it was in need of adjustment or repair. It had been in her late husband’s family for a number of years and she wanted it to preserve it as a reminder of his life.

Ansonia Syria mantel clock

It was in a well-packed box and in it was a note. The note said, ”my poor clock needs a good servicing and cleaning. It runs slow, eg. I set it and would it on Sunday and by Friday it’s about 14 minutes slow, about 2-3 minutes per day, and it needs new hands”.

Packaged with care

I opened the box, attached the pendulum, gave both arbours several turns, and started the clock. The fact that it is in running order and striking correctly is certainly a positive sign and testament to the fact that it was serviced in the past. Does it need a simple cleaning and regulating or is something else going on?

Apart from a couple of nicks and scratches, the case looks good. I asked the owner if she would like the case reconditioned and she said she prefers it the way it is. Fair enough.

The Ansonia Syria is an attractive mantel clock and according to the label affixed to the inside of the back access door, it is an 1878 Paris Exposition winner. This is helpful because it allows the clock to be dated. On the movement, there is a patent date of June 18, 1882. It is probably safe to say that it was made within a few years of the 1882 date which puts it in the late -1880s to 1890s. Tran Duy Ly in his book on Ansonia clocks (page 245) lists the year of manufacture as 1894.

The Ansonia Clock Company competed with many popular clock companies of the time; Waterbury, Gilbert, Seth Thomas, E. N. Welch, and New Haven to name a few.

Let’s look into this clock a little further. A few interesting anomalies struck me as I examined the clock case and the movement.

  • Just above the 12, there is a brass insert that looks like the head of a large pin. It is there to conceal a hole. Although difficult to see in the photo, the letters “S” and “F” appear at either side of the pin. The pin hides the hole for the regulator. Clocks with this type of regulator come with two-sided keys and the smaller end is used to insert into the hole and regulate the clock to slow it down or speed it up. The dial pan is also held in place by common nails.
  • This movement in this case does not have a regulator mechanism and the mechanism was not removed from the movement. This is a period-correct Ansonia replacement movement that originally came out of a kitchen clock with an alarm. The alarm would have been attached to an activating lever which has been cut off on this movement (see the centre of below shot).
The base of the alarm actuator
Standoffs on the back of the movement
  • In the above photo, you can see standoffs on the rear plate and clearly standoffs on the front plate. The front standoffs are fashioned from a brass ribbon, bent, drilled out, and cut to fit. The clock is, what we term in the clock business, a marriage. It is always nice to see that it has a movement from the same manufacturer and from the same period as the clock case but a marriage certainly reduces its desirability and makes it difficult to classify it as an antique.
  • Next, the suspension spring post has been re-soldered, loose perhaps.
  • And lastly, the hour hand is a replacement. The original hour hand would have been a trident style.

That having been said, the clock has great sentimental value for the owner, and the fact that it is a marriage and has undergone changes over the years may not be a factor.

The movement has been worked on in the past. There are 16 replacement bushings. The bushing work looks professional and after a first look perhaps 2 or 3 require replacement though none on the strike side. Otherwise, the movement was dirty and had thick black-greenish oil residue on several pivots. Not surprising in an antique clock but indicative of some level of wear. The mainsprings were dripping with brown oil, but I have seen a lot worse.

The next step is to service the movement. Part 2, in four days’ time will detail disassembly, bushing work, and general cleaning.

Horolovar guide and how to determine the correct suspension spring for a 400-day clock

Dial face Kundo Clock

A 400-day clock, also known as a torsion clock, is a type of mechanical clock designed to run for about a year (400 days) on a single winding. It features a unique suspension system, where a rotating pendulum or torsion spring controls the movement. The clock’s long-running time is achieved through a very slow, consistent release of energy from the mainspring, and the mechanism is typically enclosed in a glass dome for display. Though not particularly accurate, they are fascinating to watch.

Years ago, my daughter gave me a Horolovar guide as a Christmas gift. Any horologist who works on many 400-day clocks will agree that the Horolovar guide is an indispensable manual when working with 400-day clocks.

It’s not a manual you’ll reach for often, but when working on 400-day clocks—often called anniversary clocks—it becomes absolutely essential.

Horolovar 400 Day Clock Repair Guide
Horolovar 400 Day Clock Repair Guide

The guide was last published in June 1991, and I believe little has changed since then. However, while writing this, I did some research and discovered that Haller Uhrenfabrik GmbH still produces mechanical anniversary clocks. Haller Uhrenfabrik GmbH is a German clock manufacturer based in Simonswald in the Black Forest, known especially for anniversary clocks, table clocks, and decorative mechanical timepieces. Founded in 1874, it combines traditional clockmaking.

Using the Manual

My daughter was in the midst of moving across the country when she unknowingly overlooked the locking mechanism on the 400-day clock she had received as a gift a few years ago. Upon unpacking it, she found that the suspension spring had snapped. While a snapped suspension spring can’t be reused, it can be easily replaced.

400-day clocks require very specific suspension springs, ones specially designed for each of the many dozens of manufacturers in the past 100 years. Install a suspension spring with an incorrect thickness and length, and you are asking for trouble. The correct spring for the make and model of the clock will ensure a smooth-running anniversary clock that will operate for many years.

On the positive side, these clocks run so slowly at 8 beats per minute that it is rare to have worn pivots and bushing holes.

Horolovar templates
Horolovar templates

Back to the clock in question. It is a Kundo anniversary clock made in the 1950s. According to the Horolovar guide, it is model 1371. Model 1371 tells me that the thickness of the suspension spring is .081 mm or .0032″. I’ve worked on similar models before and had some leftover Horolovar suspension springs of that size.

Kundo 400-day clock, made in West Germany

This is essentially a one-hour job. There are two blocks, one at the top and one at the bottom. Carefully unscrew the blocks, ensuring the spring doesn’t become bent during the process (the small screws can be tricky to loosen). Once the blocks are removed, insert the suspension spring and tighten the screws. After securing the blocks, the manual will indicate where to attach the suspension fork.

suspension spring installed on a Kern
Suspension spring installed on a Kern 400-day clock

Install the assembly onto the clock by attaching the top block with a screw that threads into the mounting hole, and hooking the bottom block onto the pendulum—but your work is not yet finished.

Now comes adjusting the beat and regulating the clock. There is a bracket above the suspension spring assembly that can be turned slightly (it is a friction fit) in either direction to correct the beat. I set the beat by ear and eye. There is a beat setting tool that can be purchased from a clock supplier if you plan to work on a lot of these clocks. In any event, a beat amplifier is an absolute must.

Most 400-day clocks run at 8 beats per minute. Mine runs slightly faster at 9 beats per minute, but this can be adjusted using the dial-type speed regulator at the top of the four weights. While a clock running a bit fast might seem negligible, over the course of a year, it can accumulate into a significant difference of minutes or even hours. As anyone familiar with these clocks will attest, they are not known for their precision in keeping time.

Can you install a new suspension spring without the Horolovar guide? Yes, but you’ll need to research the correct suspension spring thickness for that specific model and use the old assembly as a template.

In the end, 400-day clocks are deceptively simple machines that demand careful attention to detail. Replacing a suspension spring may only take an hour, but selecting the correct one, installing it properly, and setting the beat requires patience and a bit of experience. The Horolovar guide brings all of this together, turning what could be trial and error into a straightforward process. It may not be a book you use often, but when you need it, there’s really no substitute.

Related Articles

Anniversary clock repair – a replacement suspension spring
Kundo 400 day clock and why I love anniversary clocks | Part I
Kundo 400 day clock and why I love anniversary clocks – Part II

Scottish tall case clock with new top finials

The final step in the repair/restoration of my tall case clock are the top finials. This clock had top corner finials at one point in its life. There is evidence that something was there on either side of the crown. I have no idea what they might have looked like but judging from photos of many tall case clocks of the 1850s period they were likely a brass ball type.

My first sight of the clock in a corner of an auction house

It is a classic Scottish tall case design from the 1850s. The removable bonnet is 23 inches at its widest point, the waist is 15 3/4 inches wide and the base is 20 inches wide. The bonnet has tapered columns on either side. The dial access door which covers the entire bonnet swings to the right. The solid wood access door on the waist measures 9 X 24. The clock stands approximately 84 inches.

Continue reading “Scottish tall case clock with new top finials” →

Ansonia Drop Extra does not run and a rusty mainspring is the culprit

Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock

Ansonia Extra Drop time-only wall clock

Some time ago I wrote an article on an interesting acquisition, an Ansonia Extra Drop, a true barn find.

This Ansonia Extra Drop time-only Rosewood veneered wall clock was manufactured in the early 1880s by what was then known as the Ansonia Brass and Copper Company.

It was in pretty rough shape when I bought it and the only significant part missing is the brass dial bezel and a number of minor items such as the verge, hands, pendulum bob, suspension spring/rod, and the drop access door (which I made later on).

I was challenged by the whole prospect of putting the many pieces back together and giving what most would consider a throw-away movement, a second chance.

Siezed time-only movement
A sad-looking and seized time-only movement

Here is the movement when I found it. What a sight! I thought if I stripped away all the rust and dirt something of value would be salvageable. How many of you would simply toss it out?

After disassembly, scrubbing, cleaning, and one new escape wheel bushing here is the final result.

Cleaned up time only movement
Cleaned and serviced time only movement

First servicing

The fact that the spring was unwound on the movement when I received it tells me two things. One, the chance that it is “set” is reduced and secondly, having an open coil means more surface rust on the outer part of the spring.

I did my best to remove most of the rust on the mainspring and it went back in the movement. A short while later I discovered that the clock would only run if I wound it about halfway. Otherwise, if wound tight it would not run at all. The surface rust was evidently causing it to stop.

Some clockmakers who after observing any rust on a mainspring would immediately toss it out and argue that the spring is weaker because of the presence of surface rust. In this case, the mainspring is unsightly but has no cracks and has plenty of power.

Other repairers apply a liquid or gel, black tea, or even use electrolytic rust removal to extricate the rust. I know I risk igniting a debate about mainspring replacement and if I were in the business of clock repair, I would certainly toss out the mainspring and pass the cost on to the customer. However, I am hesitant to spend money on a new mainspring for what is essentially a $5.00 barn-find clock and my challenge was to spend as little money as possible on this clock.

During the initial servicing, I managed to get rid of most of the mainspring rust.

Second servicing

Still some problems. After several months I took it apart again, ran the parts through my new ultrasonic cleaner which I did not have at the time of the first servicing. I placed the mainspring in as well. Scotch Brite abrasive pad and WD40 combined are excellent for cleaning a mainspring and I was able to effectively smooth out the rough and rusty outer sections of the mainspring. Again, I checked for cracks and suspicious imperfections and found none. After rubbing the abrasive pad over the mainspring several times I gave it a healthy coating of Keystone mainspring oil. A smoother, rust-free mainspring should function a lot better.

Rather than mount the movement on the test stand, I installed it back into its case but left the dial off so I could monitor it more closely. It runs very well and has run several full 8-day cycles.

Ansonia movement in case
Ansonia movement in its case

I realize that I have pushed the limit of this mainspring and the next step is a replacement but we’ll see what happens after the testing period.

Weeks later

The movement continues to run well and now it is time to put everything back together.

Pequegnat kitchen clock servicing – Part II – cleaning, pivot polishing, bushing work and testing

Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf Pointed Top

On the bench is an Arthur Pequegnat time and strike kitchen clock which is part of the popular Maple Leaf series produced up to 1941 when the company closed its doors for good. In Part I of this two-part series I discussed disassembly and assessment of the work to be done.

In this Part II I continue with cleaning, pivot polishing, bushing work assembly and testing.

Nickel-plated steel plates
Nickel-plated steel plates

Parts cleaning

All parts are cleaned in the ultrasonic and dried immediately afterwards. The mainsprings were cleaned, oiled and placed back in their spring retainers.

Bushing work

One of the pivots had small amount of scoring but otherwise all other pivots were in good shape, polished and made ready for bushing. Here I have the wheels ready for polishing. An emery board is perfect for pivot polishing. A steady-rest (top right) also comes in handy for those pivot ends that are difficult to secure in the 3-jaw chuck.

Getting ready to polish the pivots
Getting ready to polish the pivots, steady-rest is in the upper right of the photo

As mentioned in Part I, I wanted to begin with the most problematic bushing wear, the escape wheel, but first it meant straightening out one of the pivots. A straight pivot will allow the arbour to align better.

Bent pivot
Bent pivot, escape wheel

Here (below) is the hatchet job of a past repairer. Normally I have sympathy for folks who had few tools to work with in the old days but attempting to close a pivot hole so aggressively and bending a pivot in the process is terrible workmanship. It is a wonder the clock ran at all.

Punch marks around a pivot hole
Punch marks around a pivot hole

The new bushing is certainly an improvement. My one concern was cutting into the steel as the pressed brass inserts for the bushings are not quite on-center. It is a quick way to ruin a Bergeon reamer and this time, it was close! This was the toughest one, the other 4 on the time side were standard installs. As mentioned in the last post, the strike side pivot holes were in great condition which happens when the strike side is not wound.

New escape wheel bushing
New escape wheel bushing

Reassembly and testing

Now, on to reassembly. The last 2 movements I worked on had steel plates with a similar problem; bent plates. If they are bent in any way it is a struggle to align the top and bottom pillars. Moreover, if the plates are bent especially in the middle they may impede the running of the movement as there may be insufficient end-shake for the wheels to run. There needs to be a little end-shake or the gear’s arbour will bind. I am not a big fan of steel plates.

Generally, I do not replace helper springs but if they are broken, replacement is essential. Many Canadian time and strike clocks have helper springs to maintain tension on lifting and locking levers including the lever for the strike action. The hammer spring looked good when I disassembled the movement but during reassembly, the spring promptly snapped. The .35mm brass spring was replaced with one the same size.

Having worked on two other similar Pequegnat movement recently, I knew exactly where to position the stop wheel for the strike side. Everything went together smoothly, the movement is now on the test stand and destined to run for years to come.

The case is in great shape but the dial was beginning to flake. I found the right combination of colours and inpainted where needed.

As received with some flaking of the dial

Maple Leaf kitchen clock
Maple Leaf kitchen clock

While there was little wrong with the clock before servicing it is nice to know it will continue along for many years to come.

Pequegnat kitchen clock servicing – Part I – disassembly and assessment

Top plate removed

On the bench is an Arthur Pequegnat time and strike kitchen clock which is part of the popular Maple Leaf series produced up to 1941. Among collectors it is know as the “Pointed Top”. This Canadian made clock was bought at an antique store in Bloomfield, Ontario the summer of 2018 and presumably spent its life in or around the Toronto area.

The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. made clocks in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) from 1904 to 1941. Canadian clock collectors are very familiar with the name and associate Pequegnat clocks with solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs and nationalism since many clocks were named after towns and cities in Canada.

Pequegnat made mantel, shelf, hall clocks (Tall case) and wall clocks mostly of oak though some were mahogany veneered. The Kitchen clock or gingerbread clock as it is often called was very popular at the time and Pequegnat made an effort to keep up with current styles with a range called the Maple Leaf. There were six versions of the Maple Leaf clock made by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. Though the dimensions are similar they share two unique characteristics; all Maple Leaf’s have the distinctive maple leaf tablet and Maple Leaf pendulum. It is Pequegnat’s interpretation of a truly Canadian clock styled after similar American ones.

I always make it a point to mark the time side wheel and mainspring so as not to confuse the two

It is a distinctive Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates (confirmed with a magnet) and brass bushings pressed into the plates. Unlike most Pequegnat movements this one is unmarked. Because of the shortage of brass after the First World War, Pequegnat used steel for their plates but with pressed brass bushing inserts. There must have been a cut-off date when Pequegnat switched from brass to steel plates so, this movement may have been made during the transition period at or around 1916.

Nickel-plated steel plates
Nickel-plated steel plates

Not surprisingly it had been worked on in the past. One escape wheel bushing on the front plate has ugly punch marks around it made while a past repairer attempted to close a pivot hole. In the process the pivot was bent. Upon closer inspections there are dients on the top of the pivot.

Punch marks around a pivot hole
Ugly punch marks around escape wheel pivot hole

Otherwise there appears to be an average amount of wear for its age. I corrected one small issue right away; the half hour strike arm was loose in the arbour and had turned to one side. I oriented it to the correct position and secured it with Lock-Tite.

Disassembly and assessment

Ah, but I discovered another reason why the strike arm was loose. While the time side requires at least 5 or 6 bushings due to excessive wear, the strike side has almost no wear at all. I can only surmise that the strike side was seldom wound. It makes perfect sense that the half-hour strike arm was twisted out of the way so as not to make any sound at all.

Overall, less bushing work for me but as far as I am concerned both sides are meant to run and they will.

Broken pressure washer on the count wheel
Broken pressure washer on the count wheel

Though still usable the pressure washer on the count wheel is broken.

Bushing work

I thought I would tackle the worst bushing first, the escape wheel, back plate. First, to straighten the bent pivot. I put the wheel in the chuck of my mini lathe and gave the wheel a few spins. Yes, definitely bent.

Bent pivot
Bent pivot

Using a punch I inserted the hollow end into the pivot and determined where I had to bend it by giving it a few more slow spins on the lathe. It is soft steel and bends easily.It is important not to be too aggressive as the pivot can snap off. Installing a new pivot is not fun!

Using a hollow end punch to straighten a pivot
Using a hollow end punch to straighten a pivot

Once straightened I gave it a good polish.

Polishing the pivot
Polishing the pivot with an emery board

It is worth mentioning that on this movement the time side mainspring is 17.2 mm high while the strike side is 15.6mm; not the first time I have seen a differential on movement such as this. I always make it a point to mark the time side wheel and mainspring so as not to confuse the two.

Now it is on to cleaning, pivot polishing, bushing work and testing which will be discussed in Part II.

Uhrenfabrik Mühlheim, Müller & Co box clock – servicing the movement

It is time to service this very fine German box clock by U. M. Muller. I have been stalling for too long. I am a little leery because the last time I worked on one of these the strike tension spring broke (my fault) so I made a promise to be more careful this time.

I bought this clock in 2013 and while it has been very reliable and running daily, like all things mechanical it requires attention from time to time.

A little background.

German “box clocks” effectively spelled the end of the Vienna regulator period because they were cheaper to produce, had simpler lines and appealed to the middle class consumer of the 1930s.

U M Muller box clock

According to Schmid’s Lexikon, the original founders of this company in Mühlheim started in 1867. It was acquired by R. Schnekenburger around 1880, then by Gebrüder Müller around 1896 when it became Uhrenfabrik Mühlheim vormals R. Schnekenburger. In 1900 it assumed the name Uhrenfabrik Mühlheim, Müller & Co. or UM Muller.

This U. M. Muller box clock features wood carved inlays on the door, metal dial, wall stabilizers, brass bezel trim, spade and spear hands, beveled glass framed in brass and a fixed wood carved crown. The case reflects excellent quality.

Logos are helpful in dating a clock. U. M. Muller clocks can be dated by the lion logo on the clock face. If the lion’s tail is up it is pre-1930. On this clock the tail is down which puts it is in the mid to late 1930s.

Back of movement

Okay, enough of background; let’s get on to servicing the movement which is the subject of this post.

U M Muller movement, front plate

It is a count wheel strike which is not unusual but to be honest I was a little surprised and expected a rack and snail movement for a 1930s clock.

The movement has been opened at least once, perhaps more. I could not see any obvious signs of repairs, so, perhaps a cleaning or an adjustment was all it required. It was very oily and I suspect it was sprayed with some sort of solvent. Despite the “wet” condition of the movement it is actually in very good condition.

I had two issues with disassembly. One, I could not pull the count wheel off its arbour despite my best efforts, so on it stayed. I simply worked around it. It made for an interesting installation of the cam wheel bushing. Secondly, the strike lifting lever spring snapped when I disassembled the clock. See, this is what I feared!

I salvaged what was left of the spring, which is essentially a stiff, straight wire that hooks onto the strike arbour, but had to drill a new hole in the plate adjacent to the old one to secure the spring. The remaining spring happened to be just long enough to do the job.

Spring repair for U M Muller movement, solder used to secure the spring in place

The movement was disassembled and parts placed in an ultrasonic cleaner. After drying all pivots were polished.

Mainsprings

The powerful mainsprings are a weak point in German clocks of this era. Usually when they break they take a few things with them. It is called collateral damage and manifests itself in broken wheel teeth, bent wheels, arbours and so on. As the mainsprings were in top shape with plenty of power, no splits or cracks, they were cleaned and reinstalled in their barrels.

Bushing work

The movement required 3 bushings, the escape wheel front and back and one on the cam wheel, strike side. It was actually not as worn as I expected and likely could have gone on further without stopping but the bushing work and overall servicing including a good cleaning will certainly extend the life of this clock.

The three 2mm diameter bushings required for the plates are some of the smaller ones in my supply. Not a huge problem but they are so small that one snapped out of my tweezers when I grabbed it from the container. It is on the floor….somewhere!

Wheels are in place and ready for the top plate

Otherwise, the bushing work went well.

Testing

the movement was assembled and while the time side ran well the strike side was out of adjustment. With count-wheel strikes it generally takes a couples of attempts to get it right but I think I have only one adjustment to make, relocating the stop wheel so that the stop pin is in the 12 o’clock position. I will leave it and test the time side for now.

Next day

This is the day when things go horribly wrong.

I let the mainsprings down and opened the plates to relocate the stop wheel. In my haste to reassemble the movement I bent one of the pivots on the governor. I knew it right away because when I had the plates back together the train would not turn and the fly was “stuck” in one spot. Out came the wheels and once I attached the fly arbour to the chuck of my lathe and gave it a few spins I could see how much it was bent. It was not bent by much, but any amount will stop the train. I straightened it as best I could and it looked pretty good. The pivots are tiny and care must be exercised when moving the wheels around when assembling the plates. It is a hard lesson for all clockmakers.

The lion’s tail is downward

Of course, while straightening the fly arbour the tiny fly retention spring, which is a small wire, flew into the room somewhere. I had to fashion a new fly spring from 19 gauge wire. What else could go wrong! Thankfully nothing else did.

This should have been a relatively easy movement to work on. Instead I seemed to have encountered one problem after another but with each problem I arrived at a solution. Despite my issues this is a well made German movement and really nice to work on.

All is well, the movement is running and striking as it should.

Pequegnat Bedford – servicing the movement

Restored Athur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock
Restored Arthur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock

To Canadian clock collectors, Arthur Pequegnat are clocks highly regarded. Irrespective of model names they are generally classified as either “Berlin” or “Kitchener”. The Arthur Pequegnat Bedford is a Kitchener clock. Let me explain.

Although it is impossible to date Pequegnat clocks to the exact year of production, the name Berlin distinguishes clocks made before 1917 and those made after and up to 1941 when the factory finally shut its doors for good. Those made after 1917 are referred to as Kitchener clocks. Prior to 1917 “Berlin”, Ontario (Canada) was inscribed on the dial face and after the war, simply “Canada”.

Later Pequegnat movements, such as this one, have steel plates with brass bushing inserts while older Pequegnat movement plates were nickle plated brass

Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario (Canada).

This clock was given to me by a gentleman from Quebec City in May 2018. He wrote to me and asked if I wanted it, at no cost. It was his father’s clock and he felt it should go to a home where it would be appreciated. All I had to do was pick it up. While on our annual journey to our cottage in central Canada we stopped by, spent the morning chatting about clocks and other things, and have become friends ever since.

Bedford with a 6-inch dial, Canadian Clock Museum

This clock might possibly be a variant. Most Bedfords have the smaller 6-inch dial as opposed to the larger 7-inch dial on this clock.

The dial bezel and glass might also have been added as part of a later repair. The past owner told me that the clock fell and the damage was extensive. I spend part of the summer of 2018 reconstructing and refinishing the case but did nothing with the movement.

Gluing and clamping the case

Now, two years later, the movement must be serviced.

Later Pequegnat movements, such as this one, have steel plates with brass bushing inserts while older Pequegnat movement plates were nickel-plated brass. The change to steel was made during World War I when brass was in short supply. Most Pequegnat movements are stamped with the company name; this movement is unmarked.

Standard Pequegnat movement with steel plates

It was a running clock when I received it, had been running since 2018 and I did not expect too many issues while performing the service nonetheless there were problem areas. In a past repair, someone attempted to close pivot holes by punching into the steel plate. That did not work well. There is some bushing wear and from my initial assessment, at least 5 or 6 new bushings are required. On the other hand, the pivots look to be in very good condition.

Servicing the mainsprings

The strike side’s main wheel assembly fell apart when I removed the mainspring. Using a punch I staked it back together. The mainsprings are in very good condition with no rust or cracks and will be re-used. They were cleaned, oiled with Keystone mainspring oil and reinstalled on their wheels.

Servicing the mainsprings

Bushing work

As mentioned above, a past repairer attempted to unsuccessfully close at least 4 existing bushings by punching into the steel plate, so, this movement has never been bushed.

This movement was certainly more worn than I thought. After assessing the movement a second time I determined that 9 bushings were required, 6 for the time side and 3 for the strike side. With brass inserts punched into a steel plate, one is always fearful of an insert becoming dislodged or falling out. Not this time, everything went smoothly.

The 4th wheel on the strike side is unlike every other wheel with a thinner shaft just below the pivot area. The shaft was turned in order to access the lantern pinions from that end. Why not come in from the other side?

Odd repair on 4th wheel, strike side

I have seen many interesting repairs over the years so I am not especially surprised.

Parts laid out after cleaning in the ultrasonic

Once the repairs are made, the parts are cleaned, the pivots polished and new bushings installed, it is on to reassembly.

Everything but the verge is ready for the top plate

Once the wheels and levers are in position it is ready for the top plate. The escapement verge is installed once the plates are together.

During the course of reassembly I discovered a bent steel front plate which meant lining holes to the pillars was frustrating. Brass bends easily but steel also bends with enough force. I suppose if one attempts to punch a plate to close pivot holes while the movement is assembled, the plates might just get bent.

On the test stand. Beat amp microphone attached to set and monitor the beat

Then, it is on the adjustments and testing. The movement is running and striking as it should but a testing period of a couple of 8-day cycles should tell me if any further adjustments are required.

After two weeks all is good and the movement is returned it its case. It should be good for years to come.

Mauthe box clock movement servicing

Mauthe movement back plate

It is time to service the movement on this mid-thirties German box clock. It was purchased at an antique mall in Peterborough, Ontario in May of 2017, and other than oiling, nothing has been done to it. While it has been running well since then, it is due for servicing. Plus, this little project is one of the many clock tasks that has kept me busy during the period of pandemic isolation.

There is nothing anywhere on this clock that tells me it is a Mauthe, not on the clock face or on the movement. However, the gong marked by the name Divina tells me that Divina was a subsidiary of Mauthe. It was likely sold under the Forestville or Solar name in department stores across Canada in the 1940s. There is an applique of a maple leaf on the crown so, I assume that it was made for the Canadian market.

German "box" clock by Mauthe
German “box” clock by Mauthe

As mentioned, this spring-powered rack and snail movement has no makers mark though 25226 is stamped on the front plate as well as the numbers 42 and 105; 42 the pendulum length in centimeters and 105 as beats per minute.

The front plate shows the rack and snail

CA 79/9 scratched in the lower right of the front plate is a clock-makers mark for servicing in September of 1979, presumably the last time it was taken apart for cleaning.

Dirty as expected but in good shape

Both plates are 1.8 mm brass. The backplate is solid while the front plate is open. It is a robust movement that was designed to last.

Spring-loaded weight on the governor

An unusual feature is a spring-loaded weight on the governor. Manufacturers sometimes used a special fly that has a small spring-loaded weight attached to try to even the power curve of the strike side. The faster the fly spins, the further out the weight, providing more resistance.

Day I – dis-assembly and servicing mainsprings

Safety is paramount; first and foremost, let down the mainsprings.

The rack, snail, lifting levers, and other assorted parts are separated from the movement before the plates are opened up. The strike hammers stayed attached to retaining pins as they were just too difficult to take out. Additionally, despite my best efforts to pull the gathering pallet off the arbour, it would not budge. I did not want to risk any damage to either part.

The movement was dirty, as expected, but I have seen much worse.

Once everything was apart I reinstalled the time side to check bushing wear and found the only suspect bushing to be T2, front plate. After taking out the time side gears I reinstalled the strike side gears and found that side to be in very good condition. The pivots likewise on both sides are in excellent condition.

The movement is in very good condition for an 80-year-old clock.

In the normal course of clock servicing I install more than one or two bushings

Different sized mainsprings for time and strike

The time mainspring is slightly shorter in height and length and therefore less powerful than the strike mainspring. On many movements, both sides have the same mainspring power but this movement is clearly different. Is it by design? There is more resistance pushing the strike gears through the train in that it has to work a little harder so, one would expect a strong mainspring.

Note the difference in the size of the cut pinions below. Both are second wheels. The one on the right with the larger leaf pinion is the strike side, the left is the time side.

Each time I work on German or English movements I make it a point to scratch a small “T” on both the time barrel and mainspring so as not to interchange them. Even if both sides have identical mainsprings I note the difference as a matter of practice. If the springs are different and they are switched, the increased power of the incorrect, more powerful strike spring might result in premature failure of the time side.

Second wheels and difference in the size of cut pinions

The other possibility is that during a repair in September of 1979, the time side mainspring was replaced by a smaller, and more than adequate, mainspring.

I took the springs out of their barrels and gave each a cleaning in the ultrasonic. Once dry I applied Keystone mainspring oil to each mainspring and returned the springs to their barrels. That’s it for day one.

Day 2 – bushing work

In the normal course of clock servicing, I install at least one or two bushings. On this movement, one bushing was required, T2F. The hole was marginally oblong and I am sure the clock would have functioned fine without it but as a precaution, a new bushing was installed.

Cutting into the brass to prepare for a new bushing
Ready for the top plate

I generally spread my clock cleaning and servicing over several days but the bushing work went so quickly that I decided to proceed with assembling the movement.

The only critical adjustment prior to assembling the plates is the stop wheel. The stop wheel requires about half a rotation to arrest the train during warning otherwise, all the other adjustments are made outside the front plate. During dis-assembly I made a note of the location of the wheel, at 12 o’clock, saving time and frustration and it worked just fine.

Rather than use a test stand I returned the movement to its case for further testing.

LaSalle Dura alarm clock movement cleaned and running

Westclox LaSalle alarm clock

The Westclox Clock Company is best known for various versions of Big Ben and Baby Ben windup alarm clocks produced from 1909 to the mid 1980s though the later Chinese clocks did not compare with the better made American versions.

A pair of Baby Ben Dura 61C clocks

In the Art Deco style is the LaSalle series. Both of these clocks (above) are the model 61-C (401) otherwise known as a Dura clock so-called because of the nickel-plated, die-cast zinc cases made by The Dura Casting Corporation in the United States. There are 6 models in the LaSalle series and all use the Westclox type 61 Baby Ben, one day movement.

The second clock, sent to me by a reader, has a broken crystal, a rough case and a broken time key but the movement works. Since all parts are interchangeable my plan was to combine the best parts into one working clock.

A working clock, the product of taking the best of parts of two Dura clocks

So, I was left with a non working movement. I was intrigued by the design of the movement and the fact that many parts in this, which I believe to be the 61 number 2 movement, are interchangeable with other Baby Bens both before and after this movement was made. The date stamp on this movement is June 1930.

Broken time key

I wanted to know why this movement was not running. There were no obvious signs. I oiled the pivots to free the movement but had no success. The movement would run for a few seconds and stop. The alarm and time mainsprings were fine and had plenty of power but evidently not enough to keep the movement running.

My dilemma; two working movements and one good case

I let down both mainsprings. I removed the time and the alarm bridges to investigate further (3 small screws hold each bridge) and to eliminate the possibility of worn gears, broken pivots and worn bushing holes. Finding nothing I decided that a good cleaning was the next step.

Front plate

I disassembled the movement, pre-cleaned and placed the parts, including the mainsprings into my ultrasonic cleaner for 20 minutes. My wife had been baking and it was an excellent opportunity to take advantage of the heat of the oven to dry the parts thoroughly.

Free of dirt and grime

Hairspring escapements can be tricky though I got lucky and set it up correctly the first time. After installing the balance wheel and threading the hairspring through the regulator and attaching the post the movement was in beat from the start.

Hairspring and balance wheel escapement

Now I have two working movements and one good case, though one could call the second working movement a spare.

Baby Bens are well engineered and some parts are interchangeable. I enjoy working on these Baby Bens and will be on the lookout for more to add to my collection.

Selling an antique mechanical clock – preparation and advertising – how to

Seth Thomas round top

How to sell an antique mechanical clock

If you are a collector like myself there will come a point when there are just too many clocks and not enough walls and mantels. I manage my collection in two ways, some clocks are gifted while others are sold. I am not in the business of selling clocks but occasionally I will sell a few to trim my collection.

The objective is to recoup my initial investment and any time I put into a particular clock plus, make room for new acquisitions.

Juba Schatz time and strike sold in 2018

I hope you find these tips useful when preparing to sell your clock.

What does “antique” mean: The general standard for considering something as an antique is that it must be least 100 years old. Based on this definition a clock made on or before 1920 is an antique. Anything under 100 years but more than 30 years is vintage and anything 30 years or less is considered collectible. However, you will find sellers using the word antique when clearly, the article is vintage. And some consider anything that is old to be an antique.

Vintage Mauthe Westminster chime sold in 2019

Value: Research auction prices to get a feel for the value of similar clocks that are offered for sale and the price realized. There will be a range of prices and something in the middle of the range is a good guide. Know that a clock is only worth as much as someone will pay. If you price your clock too high you will know it soon enough.

Rare and desirable clocks, as well as clocks with an interesting provenance, will command higher prices.

Clocks vary in price according to the geographic location where they are sold. Generally, clocks that are made in the same location as the clock is sold will command higher prices.

Preparing the clock for sale: A clock in running condition will be worth more than one that is not. A professionally serviced clock in excellent running order will command a higher price. A clock case cleaned of grime will present better than a dirty one. Missing hands or dial glass will adversely affect the price. Items such as these can be replaced and parts are available from clock suppliers but it becomes an extra cost for the buyer and for many it is a deal-breaker.

Disclosure: Honesty is key. Tell the prospective buyer as much as possible about the clock. A clock that is a marriage, a case with a similar but replacement movement, should be stated as such. Replacement glass, newer dial, replacement crowns and finials, case repairs or full case restoration should also be disclosed. If the clock is running and was recently serviced by a competent repair person, state it. If the clock is running but the movement needs to be cleaned, state it. If it is not running describe why and what issues it might have (poor previous repairs, missing parts etc.). If you do not know, state it. Describe excessive wear, damage or missing pieces such as crowns, finials and trim pieces.

If your clock is rare, indicate why it is rare and how your research supports your description.

Jauch wall clock
Jauch wall clock may look antique but it was made in the 1970s

Where to advertise: There is any number of ways to sell a clock. Facebook for-sale sites, local online for-sale sites, eBay, flea markets, consignment shops and auction houses are popular places to sell a clock. Setting up an account for most online sites is a pre-requisite but there is usually no cost.

Photographing your clock: Few cell phones are capable of capturing a detailed image of a clock but for many, it will have to do. Out of focus photos are a no-no, however.

Several images from different angles as well as a photo of the inside of the clock case are much more helpful than one photo. During the daylight, place the clock near a window and position yourself between the window and the clock to take a series of photos in natural light. If there is damage or wear take closeup photos of those areas.

A dedicated camera with artificial light will produce superior results.

Determining the age of a clock by the movement from a Gilbert mantel clock is easy. It is stamped on the plate (1925)

Collectors are interested in certain makes. Along with your description state the maker and the approximate age. If you do not know, a picture of the makers mark on the dial or the movement will assist prospective buyers.

Description of your clock: Crafting an ad is an art in itself. You must be concise and accurate and not overly wordy. There is a balance between too little and too much information. More information means fewer inquiries from prospective buyers. Too much information with technical terms will turn off prospective buyers.

State the clock’s maker if known, the model if possible, the year it was made, the type, (time-only, time and strike, chiming clock), the style of clock (mantel, wall, shelf, parlour, Ogee, tall-case etc.). as well as any interesting features, for example, a steeple clock with an alarm function or a clock with a second’s hand.

There is no need to provide a reason for selling but sometimes it helps the ad.

Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock
Junghans Crispi German time and strike wall clock, circa 1899

Example of a poor ad for Mauthe clock pictured below

Antique chiming clock, comes with key

Example of a good ad 

Scaling down my collection. Antique German time and strike clock made by Friedrich Mauthe, circa 1899. Original glass, mild restoration including new upper centre finial, repainted hands, new wall stabilizers and new arch piece. Cleaned and serviced in 2019. Runs well, key supplied.

Mauthe wall clock

And finally

Know your terms: If you are selling a mantel clock, the word is mantel, not “mantle”. A clock with two winding points (and there are exceptions) are generally called striking clocks, that strike not “chime” on the hour and half hour. A chiming clock generally has a quarter-hour musical tone such as Westminster or Whittington and often has three winding points (again there are exceptions). There is no such thing as a Tempus Fugit clock. Tempest fugit means “time flies”. A grandfather clock is a tall-case clock 6 feet or higher, not a wall clock. Gingerbreads and parlour clocks are different but both are often called kitchen clocks.

Though certainly not a definitive guide to selling, I hope I have provided some pointers and ideas when you decide to sell your antique mechanical clock.

Tick Talk Tuesday #26 – bob needed for Sessions Raven mantel clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

Sessions Raven clock
Sessions Raven clock

TL writes:

“Hello,

I have a Sessions Cathedral Going Mantle clock and I need a replacement pendulum bob for it, as the original bob was lost during a recent move. Can you help me or steer me in the right direction?

Raven time and strike movement
Raven time and strike movement

If you don’t have replacement parts can you at least let me know the model of the clock I have, I think it might be a Raven Model but I’m not sure?

Photos of my clock are attached.”

Sessions Raven dial
Sessions Raven dial

I write:

Here is one at Timesavers. And is made for Sessions mantel clocks. You have the Raven. It is a beautiful clock, Tim. https://timesavers.com/i-8948532-mantel-clock-bob-sessions1-3-8.html

TL writes back:

“Thanks for the info Ron. Greatly appreciated.”

What is this clock thing for? #5 – the mainspring clamp

Click replaced

The only way you can safely disassemble a clock with an open mainspring is by using mainspring restraining clamps. 4 piece sets, which will accommodate various mainsprings sizes are available from all clock suppliers.

Wind the mainsprings tightly enough so that you can work the clamps around the springs. Move the rachet click aside and allow the let-down key to release the mainspring slowly into the clamp.

Mainspring contained in a clamp
Mainspring  restrained within in a clamp

With the mainspring safely clamped you can proceed with cleaning and servicing a clock movement.

A soft steel wire becomes a clamp

When a clamp may not fit or you do not have clamps, a soft steel wire will suffice.

This clamp on a time side mainspring

Round and flat mainspring clamps are available from suppliers. The above shows a flat clamp on a mainspring

Olie Baker spring winder
Applying a round mainspring clamp while using an Olie Baker spring winder

If you can afford it, a spring winder is one of several essential tools of a clockmaker.

Removing lever with helper spring
Assembling a movement with a mainspring restrained in a clamp

Safety is paramount when working with a clock.  If you are going to buy just one set, I would purchase flat clamps. They are easier to maneuver around the mainspring than a round clamp. Mainsprings are not to be fooled with. They are very powerful and all that power can cause damage not only to clock components but to your limbs as well.

Interesting clock repairs, some good, some not so good

While I admire the ingenuity and creativity of clock repairpersons many years ago some of the repairs are downright scary and dangerous. I say clock repairpersons because may were back yard mechanics with minimal clock skills that were paid to “just get his thing running”.

In this article, I will describe some of the strange repairs in clocks I have worked on over the years.

Let’s start with this interesting wheel repair.

Tooth repair on a 30-hour time and strike

I would call this a passable tooth repair. It is functional but it could have been dressed properly and filed down to improve its appearance. I left it as-is.

Continue reading “Interesting clock repairs, some good, some not so good” →

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