Winding a mechanical clock – A How-To Guide

In this age of everything electronic, it may surprise some people that a newly acquired mechanical clock bought at the local garage sale, flea market or antique store needs to be wound on a regular basis. Winding a mechanical clock takes a level of care but a few simple guidelines should have you on your way.

Here’s how to wind an antique or vintage mechanical clock correctly. By following these tips and guidance, you’ll gain the skill and confidence needed to wind your clock properly and maintain its functionality.

Junghans Corner feet finished — _{A typical German mantel clock}

Let’s begin by discussing some terms.

Winding Arbours or Winding Points and Their Function

On your clock’s dial (excluding cable-driven tall case clocks), you will notice one, two, or three holes, known as “winding arbours” or winding points. Each arbour serves a specific purpose, and the number of winding arbours indicates the number of gear trains (or sets of gears) in the clock.

For example, a clock with one winding hole is a time-only clock. Two winding holes typically indicate a time-and-strike clock. These clocks strike the hour on the hour and may also strike on the half-hour, either on a bell or gong. Clocks with three winding arbours chime on the quarter-hour, producing a musical tone. On such clocks, the center arbour winds the time train, the left arbour winds the strike train, and the right arbour winds the chime train.

On some clocks, there is a smaller hole on the clock face near or above the 12 o’clock position. It is also an arbour, but a smaller one used for regulating the speed of your clock. If you have a double-ended key, the small end fits that arbour. Some clocks will have the regulating arbour located under the centre cannon where the hands are attached.

The Difference Between Strike and Chime

A strike or a chime is simply the clock sounding the time. An antique or vintage “time and strike” clock indicates the hour by striking once for each hour or using a two-tone strike, such as a Normandy or “Bim-Bam” strike.

On the other hand, a chime is a musical tone and a typical musical tone found on most clocks with three winding points is the Westminster chime. Some clocks provide more choices such as the Schatz W3 bracket clock which has 3 musical tones, St Michael’s, Whittington and Westminster.

On older clocks, there may or may not be an additional strike on the half-hour. Older antique clocks from the mid-1800s, for example, typically do not strike on the half-hour to preserve the wind on the strike side.

Typically, striking clocks have two winding points, while chiming clocks have three.

Where Winding Points Are Located

On this spring-driven, Seth Thomas mantel clock (photo below) the left arbour, indicated by an arrow, winds the strike side and the right arbour, the right arrow winds the time side. The smaller hole just below the centre cannon is for regulating the clock using a double-ended key.

Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows) — _{Winding arbours on an antique Seth Thomas mantel clock}

On the Ingraham clock (photo below), there is only one set or train of gears that indicates it is a time-only clock, hence the single arbour or winding point. The barely visible, smaller hole in the loop end of the “2” on the number 12 is for regulating the clock.

Winding arbor on an Ingraham Nordic banjo clock — _{Winding arbour on an Ingraham Nordic banjo clock}

If you find the sound of the strike unpleasant or it disturbs your guests, you can wind only the time side, and the clock will still run perfectly fine without winding the strike side.

However, to ensure even wear and proper maintenance, it is advisable to wind both sides of a striking clock.

The Running Time or Cycle of a Clock

Most clocks are designed to run for eight days. Some older clocks run 30 hours and others run as long as 30 days on a wind. Still others such as anniversary clocks will run 400 days on a wind.

For eight-day clocks, winding once a week ensures the clock continues running smoothly. Establishing a routine, such as winding your clock(s) on the same day each week, is a helpful habit. It’s also a good idea to make occasional adjustments to your clock, such as fine-tuning its speed to account for seasonal changes. You can find more details in an article I wrote about regulating your clock.

Clock Keys

It is common for a newly acquired clock to come without a key, and if it does have one, it is usually a replacement. Finding a clock with its original key is quite rare. The key that accompanies the clock is likely to fit, but if your clock has a speed adjustment arbour (marked F-S) on the dial, typically located near the top, it should have a double-ended key.

If your clock has a one-ended winding key and a speed adjustment arbour is present, the key is not original to the clock. Double-ended keys are necessary because the speed adjustment arbour is considerably smaller than the winding arbour.

Key Size and Type

All mechanical clocks require a winding key, like the one shown below. The exceptions are alarm clocks and some carriage clocks, which have built-in winding keys. Keys come in various sizes, so it’s important to have the correct size for your clock’s arbour. The key should fit snugly without being too loose.

If your clock came without a key it can be purchased at any clock supply house such as Perrin in Vancouver, Canada. Timesavers and Merritts are clock suppliers in the USA where keys can be purchased.

Here is an article on key sizes.

_{Ingraham Huron winding key. Home-made but functional and over 120 years old}

Over-winding a clock is a common myth. A clock which “appears” to be over-wound seizes because of a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil

Winding Your Mechanical Clock

If the dial is covered by a glass door, open it to access the clock face. Insert the key into one of the winding arbours and use your non-dominant hand to steady the case while winding. To protect the finish of the case, it’s a good idea to wear a cotton glove on your non-dominant hand.

Next, turn the key clockwise. If it doesn’t turn clockwise, try turning it counterclockwise. Some clocks wind in either direction, so this is normal. Avoid forcing the key; apply minimal pressure and continue winding until you feel resistance. Once you encounter resistance, stop winding and do not force the key further.

Below is a clear example of a previous owner using excessive force to wind the movement in the wrong direction. The right spring barrel has become unhooked from the main wheel, which only happens when significant force is applied while winding in the opposite direction.

If you lose the key, simply purchase a replacement. Never use pliers or any other hand tools to wind a clock.

Daniel Dakota movement — _{Chinese clock movement}

The “clicking” sound heard while winding the arbour is the click engaging the ratchet on the mainspring. The ratchet’s purpose is to secure the mainspring in place with each turn of the key.

An 8-day clock usually requires about 14 half turns of the key as the arbour does one complete turn per day.

Mainspring rachet and click — _{Mainspring ratchet and click.}

Allow the key to gently return to its click. On the rare occasion that the click slips or breaks, resist the urge to release it quickly. Instead, let the key slowly unwind in your hand to prevent potential damage to the teeth, gears, and even your hand. Letting the key go suddenly can cause collateral damage to other parts of the movement.

The myth of overwinding a clock is common, but a clock that “seems” overwound actually seizes due to a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil, which causes the coil to stick. Regular servicing of a mechanical clock is an essential part of ownership and helps prevent future issues.

Clocks with Weights

Not all clocks use springs — for example, grandfather clocks and one-day ogee clocks are weight-driven. On these clocks, the weights must be raised to the top to begin the weekly time cycle. This can be done either by inserting a crank key into the winding arbor on the clock face or by manually pulling the chains to lift the weights.

For clocks with winding chains, gently pull down on the shorter side of the chain until the weight reaches the underside of the wooden seatboard, stopping at the weight stop bar. Repeat this process for the remaining two chains if it’s a chiming clock. Allow the chains to do the work — do not assist by lifting the weights at the same time. Pushing up on the weights could cause the chain to slip over the winding gear teeth or become unhooked. To protect the brass finish on the weight shells, wear cotton gloves while steadying the weights as they are pulled up.

For tall case clocks with cable drives, use a crank key to wind by inserting the key into each winding hole on the clock face. Turn the key slowly until the weights are raised to the top.

All three weights on a chiming grandfather clock descend more or less together through the week.

On older tall case clocks with weights hidden behind an access door, open the door to watch the weights rise as you wind the clock. As the weights near the top, slow down and stop when you feel resistance.

Thirty-hour time and strike or one-day clocks are typically wound with a winding crank inserted in the dial face winding points once per day. Wind the weights to the top of the case at approximately the same time each day.

Final thoughts

In conclusion, take pride in your mechanical clock and the craftsmanship it represents. Wind it regularly, care for it properly, and have it serviced when necessary. Even if you prefer not to keep it running, cherish it as a remarkable piece of horological heritage.

For visual learners who prefer to see the process in action, I’ve created a helpful video demonstration showing exactly how to wind a clock. You can watch it here:

May 4, 2017

Tick-Talk Tuesday #6 – comments on online purchases

Tick-Talk Tuesday is all about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). If I am stumped, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

I wrote a blog article offering advice for online purchases which you can see here.

Summarizing my advice for online shoppers;

Check the dates on the listings. The longer they are listed the more the seller is inclined to sell for a better price.
Meeting the same day is crucial; you do not want the seller to get cold feet and you do not want someone coming before you to buy the clock.
Cash is the rule. No cheques!
If you cannot negotiate a final price by email suggest talking it over on the phone
Be courteous and polite at all stages of the deal

Unknown French clock — Unmarked French clock, Kijiji purchase

JC writes, “Very good advice overall. I have only one small issue: I think asking about dates (how old is it?) is kind of pointless. I’ve seen clock-makers who have been in business for decades (30+ years) who can’t even correctly date a clock to within 100 years. I’m thinking of a specific example of a well known clock-maker who was explaining a repair on a comtoise clock “from the early 1700s”. The clock was actually from around 1840. I find that this sort of mis-dating happens often, and even with so called experts. Another example I can give you is a Black Forest clock specialist who had a particular clock he was demonstrating in a video, also apparently also “early 1700s” with wooden wheels, but it had an original coiled gong strike inside. The earliest evidence of coiled spiral gongs only date back to as early as maybe 1820-1830. Before this they simply just didn’t exist yet. This was from an EXPERT collector. Someone who specializes in Black Forest clocks. Some of his clocks are worth 5 figures.

That said, I would not trust the word of any eBay, Craigslist, Kijiji, or even auction house seller.

As far as your little clock goes, I think it was an absolute STEAL! True, the strike side could potentially have major problems, but even as a timepiece, the marble is gorgeous. With the price of shipping these days, it was an especially nice find. I haven’t been too lucky finding clocks locally. I think I’ve only bought a small handful, and they tend to be anniversary clocks, and mass produced American clocks (gingerbreads and mantle clocks) with a few German Art Deco style clocks.

I’ve bought a *LOT* of my clocks online (eBay) and for 95% of them, I just went with photos. If the photos were not good enough, I’d pass. It has largely worked out for me, but I ALWAYS assume they will not work. There is only ONE clock that arrived in pristine working condition.

Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site

My response to JC . “A good point JC and one that I will consider. The answer I usually get when I ask about the age of the clock is how long the seller has had it. If they say they’ve had it for years or it was their mothers, uncles etc. I am naturally much more interested than someone who is just selling the clock for quick cash. I have acquired some great clocks that have been passed down through family (see photos on this blog). They are not without issues but sometimes the story is just as exciting as the clock itself.

I get most of my clocks from online local for-sale sites that I can pick up within an hour or two from where I live. I scour the sites everyday and will sometimes send out emails to sellers without seriously considering a purchase but occasionally their reply piques my interest. I have had one very bad experience with an EBay clock purchase so I try to stay away from them (not saying I wouldn’t in the future).

Read the article and tell me if you agree.

May 2, 2017

Seth Thomas Adamantine mantel clock – time to give it a little love

Front and back plates from a Seth Thomas mantel clock

Seth Thomas Adamantine time and strike mantel clock

I am servicing the first antique clock I ever bought. After having serviced many others it is time to give this clock a little love.

Some years ago (2000) my wife and I were traveling around Nova Scotia and stopped in a little village called Blockhouse. We found an antique store, walked in and never intended to buy an antique clock that day but left with an American Seth Thomas Adamantine mantel clock. It looked like it was worth many more times than we paid for it. We left the store thinking we had stolen it.

My research revealed that thousands were made and the price we paid at the time likely reflected its true value. The clock came home and sat on top of our piano and looked great. For a couple of years I wound it up religiously and marveled at its beautiful marbleized case and the sound of the gong on the hour and the bell on the half hour. I stopped winding it, let it sit on the piano and ignored it. About 5 years ago as I began to build my collection of vintage and antique clocks I wound it up and have kept it running ever since.

These clocks have become known to collectors as “Black Mantel Clocks”, and were popular from 1880 to 1931. Adamantine veneer was developed by the Celluloid Manufacturing Company of New York City, and was covered by U.S. Patent dated September 7, 1880. Seth Thomas Clock Company purchased the right to use the Adamantine veneer in 1881. At that time Seth Thomas stamped the year of manufacture on the bottom of each case. Though somewhat difficult to read the date on this particular clock is 1907.

Each clock I added to my collection needed some work and so I left the ST thinking that one day I would service it. Despite the fact that I kept it oiled, displayed it in a relatively dry dust free environment, it needed a good cleaning and a little bushing work.

Once you take a movement out of its case you begin to discover it’s little secrets. I immediately noticed a stripped speed regulating gear. The regulator arbour runs through the plates and is connected to the pendulum hanger to slow or speed up the clock. The rate adjustment is on the front of the clock and the smaller end of a double-sided key is used to speed and slow down the clock. I observed a rate adjustment screw on the pendulum bob. The “newer” bob had evidently been added at some point in the clock’s life to replace the stripped gear. The other possibility is that it might have had both. I have seen French clocks with both a front rate adjustment and an adjustable bob.

Regulating arbour — Regulating gear is stripped

The movement was taken apart and the parts were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner.

Bushing wear was not an excessive but enough to justify installing 4 bushings; S2 front, T2 front, and escape wheel, both front and back plates. Putting the movement back together is relatively easy though it is always frustrating positioning the helper springs and levers in place as you move the pivots into their holes. It takes me a few attempts to get the strike side gears and levers correctly aligned. The stop wheel, stop lever, maintenance lever and count wheel hook take a little trial and error and it not something I have managed to get right the first time.

Once back together the movement was oiled and placed back into it’s case. It should run reliably for years to come. Save for a slight aging of the clock face the clock is in excellent original condition.

Antique Seth Thomas Adamantine clocks look great on any mantel.

April 22, 2017

Is my clock in beat?

Certainly runs better with the book under one side

You bought a clock. It ran when you first saw it but you bring it home, display it in that very spot you imagined and now it won’t run. 99% of the time this is caused by a clock not being in beat. All mechanical clocks must be set in beat before they will run properly.

I make no attempt to explore the idiosyncrasies of various designs of clock movements. Much of the following information can be found at the forum site of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, NAWCC . At this site there are additional tips on adjusting the beat of 400 day clocks, weight driven Vienna style clocks and so on.

When a clock is out of beat, it will either not run at all, or it will run for a short time and then stop

What does the term “beat” mean?

Make sure your clock is on a level surface. Listen to the tick and the tock of your clock. Try to minimize the sounds in the room you are in so that you can listen closely to it’s rhythm. It is in beat when its ticks and tocks are even….tick…tock…tick…tock…, and is out of beat when they are uneven, either, ticktock…. or tocktick…… Put another way, there will be an equal amount of time between the ticks and the tocks. When a clock is out of beat, it will either not run at all, or it will run for a short time and then stop. It is worth repeating that a clock’s beat must be regular to work properly.

There are two ways to put a clock in beat. The first is to tilt the clock sideways, one way or the other, and listen for the beat to even out. When the beat is even, prop the clock to stay tilted that way. Now it will run in beat but it will obviously not look good.

The second way is to adjust the crutch to one side or the other, until the beat is even. The crutch is the rod that extends down from the pallets which rock back and forth on the escape wheel. The pendulum rod passes through either a loop (called a crutch loop) or a forked foot at the end of the crutch as indicated in the photo below. Incidentally, that rod needs to be in the middle of the crutch loop and can’t be tight inside the loop nor too loose. The crutch is attached to the pendulum leader which is then attached to a post with a suspension spring.

Mantel clocks have rear access doors that allow you to adjust the crutch, however for wall clocks you will have to remove the hands (the minute hand is released by a screw or a pin, the hour hand simply pulls off) and the dial face, also attached by screws that come off to reveal the movement. However,minor adjustments to the beat of a wall clock can be preformed by simply moving the clock off-level. It may not be noticeable if the clock is not quite level.

There is no need to take the movement out of its case to perform this procedure.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA — American New Haven time and strike movement taken out of its case

If the crutch is a simple rod or wire as in the photo, it is adjusted by bending it to one side or the other (left or right). The brass rod is quite pliable allowing you to re-adjust if necessary. Listen to the beat as you make the adjustments and when you have a steady tick-tock the clock is in beat.

There us nothing as pleasant or soothing as the sound of a ticking mechanical clock in a room.

If it attaches to the pallets with a friction joint, it is adjusted by holding the pallets still with one hand, and shifting (pushing) the crutch right or left on the friction joint. The adjustment may be very slight in either direction.

plate-clock-movement_6-labels — Time only German movement for a Blackforest shelf clock

You need only to do this once. Whether your clock is a wall clock, a mantel clock, time and strike, time-only or time, strike and chime, the principles are exactly the same. There is no need to take your clock to a professional to have it “fixed”. This is definitely a do-it-yourself procedure. It’s that simple!

There is nothing as pleasant or soothing as the sound of the rhythmic ticking of a mechanical clock in a room especially if it is in beat.

April 14, 2017

Tick-Talk Tuesday #4 – question about Sessions Westminster A clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

This is a Sessions Westminster A mantel clock made in Forestville Conn. The first year of production for this model was 1927. This particular clock was made in October of 1930 and features minor improvements to parts of the chime / strike train. Between 1903 and 1933 Sessions produced this and 51 other models of mechanical clocks, ranging from Advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or regulator clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home. Many of the Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors.

Everything seems to working very well with my clock except for the chimes which seem to have a rather peculiar problem

JD writes. “I stumbled across your WordPress blog about your Sessions Westminster clock and thought I’d reach out as I’m in the process of finally getting mine running. Everything seems to working very well with my clock except for the chimes which seem to have a rather peculiar problem. The hourly chimes work great. Full Westminster, then the correct number of hour strikes. The half hour chimes are also correct. The problem is that the quarter hour & three-quarter chimes are reversed. The quarter hour has 12 notes and the three-quarter hour has only 4. I haven’t even taken the movement out of it’s case yet, and at this point I’m just trying to figure out what the problem might be, and how complicated it may be to resolve it. This is one of about a dozen old clocks that my father had in his collection when he passed away, all of which I had been led to believe were non-functional. I’ve got ten of them running and would like to get an idea what I’m up against with this peculiar problem. Thanks in advance for any insight you may be able to offer.”

Co-incidentally I have been working on the same clock. Mine also had issues with the strike and chime sequence. I received JDs letter prior to working on my Westminster A mantel clock so I could not advise him on his specific issue but hope to share my experience with him once I have completed work on it.

The Sessions Westminster A mantel clock was made in Forestville Connecticut, USA. The first year of production for this model was 1927. Between 1903 and 1933 Sessions produced 52 models of mechanical clocks, ranging from advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or “Regulator” clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home. Many of the Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors. Having a unique and innovative design, the Westminster A is particularly sought after.

My reply was. ” Thanks for your letter JD. I have yet to tackle this clock and know that it is not a good clock for the novice clock repair person to work on. If you have the skill-sets to have worked on other clocks then you are prepared for this one. I have attached a detailed guide which will help you through the servicing of this clock. It was prepared by Robert Croswell a member of NAWCC. One thing I should mention. The clicks are very weak on this clock and click failures are common. I need not remind you that when clicks fail they may also take parts of a clock with them. If you decide to tear it apart, do yourself a favour and replace the clicks. I have a number of clocks that I have to service before I get to the Westminster A. Let me know how you are progressing with the clock and any insights you can pass along to me.”

Drum and hammers on a unique two train chiming clock

I attached Robert Croswell’s excellent manual called Taming the Sessions 2-Train clock.

JD wrote back, “Thank you very much for the reply, and especially for the very helpful guide. I also asked the question on JustAnswer.com and received a helpful response from a clock repairer who said that the chime correction cam that is behind the locking plate needs to be rotated 180 degrees after it chimes the 12 notes, to the 3/4 hour position. As I said, I haven’t even removed it from the case yet so I just wanted to get an idea how involved the repair might be before I take any action. Now I have an idea where to focus my attention, and I can at least remove it from the case and examine it to fully understand the working of the chiming mechanism. Not sure if I’m up to tearing it apart quite yet, especially since it is running well for the most part. The resource you provided will no doubt prove very helpful to my learning process. I’ll let you know if I manage to resolve the issue and of course, anything I learn along the way. Thanks again.”

I will be sharing my experience with JD once I have the clcok running as it should. I have assembled the clock and in the process of testing the time side. Although the racks and snails (there are 2) are reinstalled I have not yet managed to have the time properly aligned. Once I have determined that the going train will run it’s full cycle I will focus on adjustments to the strike and chime side racks and snails.

A great learning experience.

April 11, 2017

Tick-Talk Tuesday #3 – question about Arthur Pequegnat clocks

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

Arthur Pequegnat clocks were made between 1908 and 1941 in Berlin (now Kitchener), Ontario. Those produced before 1917 had “Berlin” inscribed on the dial face. The town of Berlin from 1854 until 1912 became the City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916. The name Berlin was associated with the war against Germany consequently the decision was made by city officials to change the name to Kitchener midway through the First World War. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario (Canada). Arthur Pequegnat clocks were the only wholly made Canadian clocks (aside from a short run of clocks made by the Canada Clock Company and later the Hamilton Clock Company in the 1870s) and are particularly sought after by Canadian collectors.

AO from Ontario writes, “Good Morning Ron, I live in Ontario (Canada) and have two Pequegnat clocks I am thinking of selling. Could you give me an idea of how much they are worth? The mantel clock is an Oxford. Thank you.

The clocks she mentions in her email are the Arthur Pequegnat Oxford mantel clock (time and strike) and the King Edward time-only wall clock missing the King Edward lower drop decal.

King Edward with 15 day Moncton movement showing decal from the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario

I replied. “I looked at your photos and have some comments. The time-only wall clock is known as the King Edward. From the photo yours seems to look intact save for the missing decal in the lower drop. A King Edward decal should be in the middle of the glass panel. It appears to be replacement glass which will certainly affect the value. However you should be able to get in the $600 to $1000 range for your King Edward clock. If you are selling in Canada where collectors are attracted to Pequegnat clocks because they are wholly Canadian made you should do reasonably well. If the clock has been recently serviced you can expect to price it a little higher.

Mantel clocks always command lower prices but your Oxford should easily sell in the $400 range. I would price both slightly higher and see what responses you get.”

AOs reply, ” Hi again Ron, A dealer has offered me $750.00 for both clocks. Is that reasonable knowing that he has to resell them?”

I advised AO that they should dicker a bit and that the dealer certainly knows the value. I suggested that she could also try to sell it on an online for-sale site.

AO replied later and said they posted the clock on a for-sale site and the same dealer offered $650 for the King Edward.

I emailed her again asking how they made out with the sale. AO replied and said the dealer backed out and the clocks are still for sale.

UPDATE: AO wrote 1 week later and said she has sold them both for $350 more that the first offer. She is very pleased.

April 4, 2017

Jaeger LeCoultre musical alarm clock – not bought yet but I have questions

Jaeger LeCoultre clocks are a favorite among collectors

Jaeger Lecoultre alarm clock — Jaeger LeCoultre alarm clock

Jaeger LeCoultre clocks are a favorite among collectors of high-end luxury timepieces, often bringing in hundreds of thousands of dollars at auction. Jaeger LeCoultre to this day produces high quality desk clocks and watches in addition to their famous line of Atmos clocks.

I was in an antique shop in Victoria, BC recently and I must confess that I have never seen so many antique and vintage clocks in one place outside a museum. (I’ll cover those in a future blog article)

There were so many French and American mantel and wall clocks that I went by this diminutive clock twice before stopping to take a more careful look. On the clock face it says LeCoultre and underneath the base there is a label that says Faust Waltz, the musical tone of this alarm clock.

It is small but substantial in weight. It is an authentic 8-day gilt or lacquered bronze Swiss made clock from about the 1960s to 1970s though it may be earlier. There are no obvious dents or scratches on the case and no marks on the glazing although I did not have enough time to examine it more closely. I have no idea whether or not it is in complete working order but the fact that music box functions is encouraging.

Rear of clock showing winding key for the music box on the lower left

Unfortunately I was taking shots with low light and using a flash would have attracted too much attention from the owner. The quality is not up to my usual standards.

I am in the process of deciding whether or not to make the decision to buy this clock. In the meantime I have several questions:

The seller is asking CDN199; a fair price?
Is it collectible?
I would like to narrow the vintage, the year it was made, thoughts?

There are plenty of different styles of LeCoultre alarm clocks on the net but I could only find one photo of this particular clock. Either it is rare and desirable or uncommon and not worth considering. I hope it is the former.

Let me know what you think.

March 15, 2017

How to buy a clock on Craigslist, Kijiji, Gumtree and so on…..And this is what I bought

Circa 1890 French Black Marble mantel clock

It is a French mantel or shelf clock. I have no idea of the maker but it is an antique (over 100 years old), possibly 1890 to 1900. It has “Marque Deposse” stamped on the back plate but that simply means “trademark” in French. It is not a maker’s name. The clock is 11 inches high by 8 inches wide by 5 inches deep.

It is a time and strike movement on a coil gong. Unfortunately, the strike side does not work though the seller disclosed that to me before I bought the clock. I can feel the tension of the spring when I turn the key in the arbor but the spring does not engage the click, so, a broken or disconnected click I presume. The previous owner described it as having a melodious sounding gong. I would love to hear it. I wondered if the spring barrels could be taken out without separating the plates but further research has revealed that the movement must be dis-assembled.

The clock dial face is in two sections. The brass inner pan is surrounded by a porcelain dial with painted numbers. The dial door is flat glazing in a brass bezel with a high quality “hidden” hinge. A taper pin holds the delicately crafted hands. There is a smaller arbor, a speed regulator above the 12, which allows more precise tuning in concert with a speed adjustment on the pendulum.

Aside from numbers on the back plate, an identical batch number on the pendulum and the Marque Deposee stamping, there is no makers mark. There may be a mark on the gong block but I won’t know until I release the nut on the base panel to take it out from underneath the clock. The numbers on the back plate are 3851-55. The number 5 5 is the pendulum length as in 5 and 5/12 French inches.

Adjustable pendulum — Front side of pendulum

The movement appears to be of superior quality though common in a number of higher end French clocks. From what I can determine, the movement can be taken out of the case by undoing the two screws that go through the back bezel into the brass straps that protrude through the case from the front bezel. The movement should come out through the front once the two screws are released. The movement looks clean and there is sufficient oil in the pivots (no black or green gunk). I have other projects on the go so it might take me some time to take the movement out for inspection but for the time being I will let it run to regulate it.

The Corinthian style case is very heavy and is quite possibly Dinant Belgian Black Marble. Aside from the non-functioning strike side there are other issues. One is a very noticeable chip on the bottom right corner of the base which you can see in the photo below and the other is a small chip in the top left corner which is less visible. Close-up that larger chunk out of the corner looks ugly; from a distance it is hardly visible.

The worst of two chips, bottom right corner

Despite the slight damage the overall look is impressive. Most of what I see is well preserved. Indeed, it is a very attractive and stately antique French mantel clock that now occupies a prominent place in our family room.

Who made it? Unless there is a maker’s mark on the gong block or somewhere else on the movement, I may never know.

March 13, 2017

Buying an antique or vintage clock on Craigslist, Kijiji, Gumtree etc. – a how to

“Life is a box of chocolates….you never know what you are going to get”, Forest Gump

Buying a clock without actually touching and inspecting it is always a gamble and making a judgement based on images, many of which are poor quality, complicates the decision-making even further. There are stories of people buying clocks online only to find that the clock they thought had a antique mechanical movement arrived with a quartz one.

There are many challenges facing the clock shopper in today’s online world. Once your interest is piqued you may ask yourself these questions:

Did I get my money’s worth? Will I be “ripped off”?
Will it work when I get it home?
What do I have to do to fix whatever might be wrong?
What did the seller not disclose?

There are accepted rules about buying clocks on online for-sale sites. Online for-sale sites are ubiquitous and in many countries in the world. Here is an example of rules that are found on a particular site that I frequent.

All transactions should take place in person with cash. Do not ship items and do not accept other payment methods.
Never click links in an email that ask you to sign in to xxxx. All “Your xxxx account has expired” emails are fakes.
xxxx, eBay and PayPal do not offer buyer or seller protection for xxxx items. Such emails are fakes.

But for more specific rules on how to buy that special clock you were always looking for, see Ron’s Rules at the end of this post.

Follow this exchange between myself and the seller and consider my thoughts on this and other online clock purchases later in the article.

The clock

Unknown mantel or shelf clock.

The exact words of the ad

Wind up alabaster clock. Very heavy. $80.00

The email exchange between myself and the seller

NOTE: This particular online for-sale site has an encrypted email service, therefore in my exchange I do not know the seller’s actual email address. This is a necessary protection for both parties.

Do you know the company that made the clock and how old it is? Thanks

From the wording of the ad I am assuming at this point that the seller knows very little about the clock

Seller

Sorry I don’t know who made or how old it is. I bought it in an auction a few years back. Thanks xxxx

Since you do not know the maker and I would have to drive from xxxxx, would you accept $60 for the clock.

Seller

Before you decide to drive from xxxxxx I would like you to know that the chimes do not work. I know that the clock would be worth more but 60.00 is fine if you would like to have it. Thanks xxxx. Let me know .

If the chimes don’t work it is not a huge problem. Does it look like all the parts are there or is anything missing? I am still interested if the parts are there.

Seller

Everything is in tact. It was last serviced a few years back and worked great, but went to wind the chimes and they seemed to slip on the spring… However the clock still works just had it put away for a couple of years.

For $60 I will buy it. How does 2pm today sound?

Seller

Yes we will make sure we are at home. Will you find the place OK? If not we could meet you part ways.

Later

I provided the seller with my telephone number. He subsequently calls to give me his address. The call is important because I suspect he wants to get a feel for who he is dealing with and that is the correct way to approach sales such as this.

Thoughts

It is important to be ready to pick the item up ASAP. You do not want to allow too much time for the seller to have second thoughts or to have someone else move in ahead of you. I often suggest meeting that same day, in a neutral place or at their home but most suggest meeting at their home. A neutral place is an option and I had to do this only once in over 2 dozen purchases.

My preliminary analysis based on the limited information that I have is that it is an French or English made time and strike shelf clock and judging from the problem on the “chime” side it might just be a bad click although it is possible that parts of the movement have been damaged. It is impossible to know until I see it and bring it home.

You might suggest I ask more questions about the clock or have the seller send additional photos of the movement or even a closeup of the clock face. It is only a $60.00 clock! In my experience once you attempt to have the seller take extra steps to sell their clock especially a clock at this price, the chances of a loss of sale increases. Were I to shell out hundreds of dollars I would definitely ask for more information and detailed, higher resolution photos.

Ron’s Rules

Locate the clock you are looking for online and try to avoid Chinese or Korean clocks often advertised as “31 day” clocks. (For some reason people think they are worth a lot of money and they are garbage – usually!)
Communicate by email and ask questions but not too many as to scare the seller off. Suggested questions might be:
- Does the clock run?
- Who is the maker (manufacturer)?
- If it does not run, are all the pieces intact?
- How old is it?
- How long have you had it?
- Would you accept a lower price because…….(justify reason(s))?
Arrange final meeting details by phone.
Meet the same day if possible.
Meet the seller in person.
Meeting at their home is preferred but a neutral location such as in front of a public building or in a mall is an option
Pay in cash.
Thank him/her for the sale.

Final thoughts

Check the dates on the listings. The longer they are listed the more the seller is inclined to sell for a better price.
Once, I gave the seller a day or two to think about my offer. I took a chance but got the clock for a decent price. (see first image)
Meeting the same day is crucial; you don’t want the seller to get cold feet and you don’t want someone coming behind you to buy the clock.
Only once did the seller accept a cheque from me because of past dealings with him. Cash is the rule.
If you cannot negotiate a final price by email suggest talking it over on the phone
Be courteous and polite at all stages of the deal

My wife and I are in the mood for a road trip. Now, with cash in hand, let’s get into the car and go for a drive.

Check back in 3-4 days to see how we did.

March 10, 2017

Sessions Westminster A mantel clock Part I – Let’s explore this clock a little further

This is Part I of a multi-part blog wherein I explore the challenges of repairing a Sessions Westminster A tambour style time, strike and chime mantel clock. This part is the introduction.

RS Sessions Westminster chime circa 1931 (12) — Th Vintage Sessions Westminster A mantel clock

In August 2015 I wrote, “This a good project clock that is not for the inexperienced. As I gain more knowledge I will tackle this most interesting clock.” Well the time is now.

Well, it’s been two years and I have looked at this clock often enough and wondered what it would be like to finally get it running. Time to take the plunge.

Some Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors. The Westminster A is particularly sought after though collectors prefer it to be serviced and in running condition.

RS Sessions Westminster chime circa 1931 (10) — Raised Roman numerals and faux inlay

The clock is tricky to repair and most horologists prefer to stay clear of it

This clock is 21 inches long and 10 inches high, has a mahogany finish with faux wood inlay and raised metal gold-coloured numerals on the dial face. It is a quarter-hour 8-day Westminster chime clock operating on two trains, the going train (time) with the strike and chime train combined. It also has small arbour just below the hour cannon to turn off the chimes/strike and is called “Silent Chime”. Sessions was not alone in producing two-train clocks and other makers incorporated this design later in the 1930’s and 1940’s. However, Sessions was probably the best known for this feature. This clock was sold in 1931 (inscription on label, back of access door). The sale price was $29.95 which would have been substantial considering a working man’s salary in those days.

The clock is tricky to repair and horologists will generally try to stay away from it. I will be going through a step-by-step process and relying heavily on Robert Croswell’s excellent instructional manual called Taming the Sessions Two Train Movement February 2016 edition.

In August 2015 I wrote, “This a good project clock that is not for the inexperienced. As I gain more knowledge I will tackle this most interesting clock.”

I have done some bushing work and from what I can see there is certainly bushing work to be done. I have removed the movement once before to replace a bad click which as easy fix since the mainsprings can be removed without dis-assembly. The click holds the tension or power of the mainspring and is identified by a clicking sound when the key is turned. But the real challenge will begin as I attempt to understand how the chime mechanism works and if I can re-assemble it successfully.

Follow me as I dis-assemble, clean and repair the movement in Part II.

March 3, 2017

Kienzle World Time Clock (Weltzeituhr) – more about this fascinating clock

Kienzle clock on display with Ingraham Huron

Occasionally, I receive private email from readers.

One reader asked why I dated the clock to 1950

I received a couple such emails regarding my Kienzle World Time clock and it prompted me to dig a little deeper into the origin of this unique clock.

The clock is substantial, measuring 13 and 3/4″ high, 10″ wide 2 and 1/2″ deep. It is certainly a singular work of elegance, style and a genuine stand-out in any room.

One reader asked why I dated the clock to 1950.

I referred the reader to this article. The article suggested that the mechanical version of the World Time was introduced the late thirties. It had a healthy production run and there were several variations. Mine was “Made in Germany” (West Germany was created in 1949) and might have been manufactured on or before 1949 which would not have prevented it from selling in the 50s. For most of the ones advertised on Ebay, 1950 appears to be the most commonly cited year of manufacture though there are no specific markings regarding date of manufacture on my clock.

It was designed in 1939 and at least one clock was made that year

However, here is some additional information which suggests that although it was designed in 1939 at least one clock was made that year though it did not go into full production until much later.

A birthday present for an infamous leader of Germany

The first Kienzle World Time clock was presented to Adolf Hitler on his 50th birthday in 1939 by the government of Würthemberg. The classical design with the world map in the “Mercator” (cylindrical map projection) style and the moving narrow scale with the time in the denoted cities came from the, at that time, Heinrich Johannes Möller, a famous designer who was working for Kienzle from 1931 onward til 1970. Möller was hired at age 27 and became Kienzle’s principle designer. The original clock had a bulky “foot” or base and was decorated with swastika patterns on the edge. After the war, the decoration was altered, the base became smaller but the general layout of the dial was preserved through all permutations of the clock, from the early mechanical versions to the electro-mechanical version and finally the quartz movements in the 80s. A curious feature of the clock is that it shows Germany to be the centre of the world.

Time sequencer — Kienzle 24 hour time sequencer

Back of Kienzle clock showing winder and speed adjustment

The World Time clock turned out to be a long standing model and was available to purchase up until the 1996 Kienzle bankruptcy. During the period that the World Time Clock was introduced (1939) Kienzle had more than 6500 employees and a production rate of 5 million clocks.

Through the later 50s and 60s Kienzle clocks lost their stylistic prominence and followed then current (international) stylistic influences but Heinrich Johannes Möller was a significant influence not only on the design of Kienzle clocks but in the clock world in general.

February 28, 2017

Timely Treasures – Gifting a Mechanical Clock

This year I decided to part with three of my vintage clocks. Rather than sell them which would have offset tool purchases, I decided that there is no better way than gifting them. I have three adult children (is that an oxymoron?) and it was a matter of allowing them to choose what clock they wanted out of several choices.

My oldest chose a vintage Sessions American No 2 shelf clock seen here.

Sessions American No 2 time and strike shelf clock — Sessions American No 2 time and strike shelf (or mantel) clock

She loved the natural mission oak style and the simple lines. This clock required a little work before it was handed over to my daughter. A thorough cleaning of the movement as well as 5 new bushings and a new click on the strike side were required. There is similar American model made by Sessions, the No 1, which did not have the fluted columns. This one was made was around 1922 and was a very popular model for Sessions.

My second daughter chose a Sessions Raven time and strike mantel clock pictured here. It is also from the early 1920s.

Sessions Raven time and strike shelf clock

She liked the ebony finish, the sound of the strike, the simplicity of the lines as well as the 4 delicate columns and added that it would go great with her furniture as you can see in the photo below. I agree. This clock was serviced just before I received it about a year ago but I took the movement out, inspected it, oiled it and returned it to its case.

On display in my daughter's living room — On display in my daughter’s living room

My son chose one of my earlier clocks, a Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock circa 1960s. It was in very good condition for a Chinese clock though I took it apart, cleaned it and oiled it. Made in China clocks are practically bullet proof though due to their cheap construction they are prone to explode. Not the prettiest clock around but these things last a long time if you given them just a little care and attention.

Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock (bottom piece missing) — Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock (bottom ornamental piece missing)

If you are a collector, why not gift your clocks to friends and family? Clocks are endearing memories by association. Children love receiving clocks from their parents not only because of their collectible value (perhaps) but as a keepsake, a reminder of good times and happy family memories. I am sure that every time they wind the clock they will think about that one or more happy occasions and if something goes wrong with their clock it provides an excellent excuse for dad and mum to visit! And we certainly will with tools in hand!

February 7, 2017

Hilarious and other interesting clock ads

I scour the online for-sale sites frequently and I am always amused by some of the clock ads that folks write. I wish I could post some pictures, some of the clocks are truly pathetic but copyright law prevents me from doing so but at least present the unique descriptions. None of the spelling errors are mine by the way.

Here we go:

“I have an old antique wined up clock works great runs real waits”

An ad for a Chinese wall clock similar to this Daniel Dakota

“Original Carillon 1960-70 antique 31-day winding clock perfect condition. Elegant design with brass hands and pendulum. Comes with original key. Selling to people with taste $300”

No this clock does not look good!

“I made this clock myself, looks pretty good I think. $10.00”

An ad for what looks like a bracket clock:

“red color wood, in nice shape, not working, needs guts”

Not sure I’d take a chance on this one.

“Great look needs clock looked at and bulb. If I get to fixing it it will be more”

This ebony Adamantine Seth Thomas similar to this Sessions better be made of gold.

$1750.00 Good Investment, Great Gift, Excellent Condition, 8 Day, Chimes on the hour, bell on half hour, very accurate. I have owned this clock for 9 years with no problems. Circa 1890. This range of Adamantine Clocks, are known to collectors as “Black Mantel Clocks”

Session Raven time and strike mantel clock

Ad from Value-Village. I thought one could always get great deals there but not any more. And for $600 wouldn’t you want to know the maker of the clock?

“Foreign Granddaughter’s clock, Art Deco – Solid Oak -8 day, quarterly chime , Slight damage to dial and hinge, Dimensions: 55″H x 9,5″@ x 9.5″ D , Price: was $899.00 Now: $599.00!”

And another stellar Value Village ad. Are they serious at Value Village? It looks exactly like this Forestville time and strike that I own:

“Forestville German Art Deco Clock , Wood, Westminster Chimes (quarterly), Key wind in good working condition. Ca 1920. Has some damage at top of Dial. Key, Dimensions: 22″W X 5″H Price: was $499.00 NOW $349.00!”

Forestville time and strike mantel clock

More ads

“royal adult on carriage clock; never used by bulova”

“Coo Coo Clock in excellant condition!”

“Beautiful antique crank clock. Still works great”

“Clock antique, brand new. Made out of wood, heavy and durable. Japan movement powered by one AA battery. Beautiful, antique, decorative. High 9 inch, wide 7 inch.
I live Dufferin x Finch $60”

“Antique Citizen wall clock in working condition. Comes with key. Made in Korea. Asking $125 or make my an offer!”

Chinese or Koren clock perhaps. These quite often sell for less that $50. I might consider a Korean or Japanese clock but I would never pay $150 for a Chinese one. I wonder what might happen if I offered less, would they threaten me!

“Vintage Beacon regulator 31 day keywind wall clock. They don’t make em like this anymore! Solid wood (not veneers) The movements keep excellent time. This clock is over 50 years old and works like new! We do not know the exact age as father in law brought it to Canada from Germany in the early 50s. Its in mint condition and works like new. Seriously nice sounding chimes Dimensions: 28in h x 16in w (at round face) x 6in deep Key included Serious enquiries only please. Price is NOT NEGOTIABLE! This means asking price of $150.00 is my final price.”

And others.

I have this clock but don’t have time to use it. Works fine.

Misfits clock works great from smoke free home

Jack Daniel’s promotional advertising wooden wall clock, would look great session room, rex room. Clock works $75 obo

January 30, 2017

Antiquing on a Sunday afternoon

Carriage clock with Jeweler's inscription — Carriage clock with Jeweler’s inscription

Sadly the number of antique shops in Nova Scotia is dwindling. We were antiquing in the city of Halifax (Nova Scotia, Canada) this past spring and one of the store owners remarked that there used to be dozens of antique shops in the city, now only a few remain. There are still a few antique shops left in the rural areas and one of our favorites is located in Great Village, Nova Scotia. We decided on a little drive to Great village on a sunny fall Sunday. We were not disappointed in the variety of clocks we discovered. Although I saw all the following clocks during our day of antiquing I bought only one, the Kern “diamond face” 400 day clock (see photo below).

rs-great-village-antiques_3 — Window display

I want to give readers a sense of what is out there if you are collector like myself or you are new to collecting. Now is an excellent time to buy. There are certainly deals to be found and plenty of clocks in the shops. My personal experience is that the antique stores are great places to buy clocks but it can be bit of a gamble. For example, the Kern 400 day clock was advertised for a very fair price complete with glass dome. I asked the store owner if they knew anything about clocks and they said “no, nothing at all”. Sometimes that is a very good answer! The tag on the clock said “as is”. The owner evidently thought the pendulum balls were seized. Prior to the purchase I discovered, that they were, in fact, in their locked position. I got the clock home, unlocked it, gave a little push and it has been running for the past week.

You can get a “steal” of a deal, a clunker or something in between in an antique shop. In this same shop two years ago I bought an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon wall clock for under $200. The case is in excellent shape as is the dial but the movement, though barely running, required servicing. Even though I had to put a little more money into the clock I still consider it a great deal!

Having some knowledge of clock models, styles and types in particular is an advantage. Or, perhaps you might have a good sense that what you are looking at is a good deal. In the case of the Kern 400 day clock I inspected it beforehand and found that it was not only complete but in excellent condition. The $58 Garrard time and strike (photo below) might be a good deal but if it is missing the pendulum you are going to have to search long and hard for a replacement or buy one which adds to the cost. You might ask yourself, what else is missing and how much more money would I have to put into it? The Garrard was missing the front glass and I could not figure out how it was attached so I passed on it. Those are some of the factors to consider when you see something at an attractive price.

In the case of the carriage clock (first photo) the seller wants $120 but the day I was there they were offering a 20% discount which works out to $96. There is a jewelers inscription on the front which says Ryrie Bros. Toronto. Ryrie Bros was a jeweler in Toronto and was incorporated in 1905 with James Ryrie as president and W.M. Birks as vice president. In 1924 the firm changed it’s name to Ryrie Birks and finally in 1933 became Birks. As any Canadian knows Birks (Maison Birk) is one of the premier jewelers in this country. One could comfortably date this clock at between 1905 and 1924. Although the tag says that it is French it is likely American. It might be desirable however there are two bothersome issues that I could see right away with this carriage clock. One, the left side beveled glass panel has a chip in the lower back corner and two, there are noticeable hairline cracks in the upper two corners of the face. The tag said it was in working order. $96 may not be a bad price when you consider that comparable clocks fetch upwards of $130 or more + shipping on Ebay. If it is still there before Christmas I might take a second look.

This unknown “marble” desk clock was very interesting and quite heavy. It had an alarm clock style movement with a key wind and an adjustment for the time, and what appears to be brass bird (duck?) on it’s right side.

As I mentioned I bought this Kern 400 day “diamond face” clock. It is in excellent condition; unlocked the pendulum, oiled the movement, gave it a gentle push of the pendulum and now running very well.

Could be Session, Ingraham, Ansonia — Could be Sessions, Ingraham, Ansonia

In decent shape, 1873 it said on the label, but the seller wanted too much, $450 if I recall. The seller claims it is running, according the tag. Is it a Sessions, Ingraham, Ansonia or …..?

This clock looked to be in decent shape, the strike side appeared to be working properly. The case is oak but when I picked it up to examine it more closely, the construction, fit and finish had a cheap feel. There was a card inside describing a servicing performed in 1994. $68 – a little high, I thought but there may not be a lot wrong with it.

I like this clock but know very little about crystal regulators. What I do know is that most American companies made them, from simple brass and glass cases to elaborate cases with cast and gilt ornaments. Equivalent French examples seem to be more valuable than American ones. They can be highly expensive. Generally, the more elaborate the case, the more expensive the clock, even though the simple cases could easily be considered more tasteful. I remember seeing a very ornate one on Antique Roadshow which was valued at $8000. Condition is very important with these clocks, including the condition of the beveled glass, dials, and original finish (generally gilt) on the case ornaments. Is the pendulum supposed to be filled with anything? Mercury? These cylinders looked empty. The seller claims the clock is running and wants $365. A fair price? I don’t know. It needs a thorough cleaning though.

This English Garrard clock had a well constructed case and appeared to have a well-made, robust movement but was missing its front glass. I have been to this particular shop several times and nobody seems to be interested in the clock though the price has not changed.

rs-great-village-antiques_6 — Seth Thomas made by Talley Industries

I noticed a Seth Thomas mantel clock in a dark corner. This particular example is one that I would not recommend to anyone unless you are a fan of Talley Industries. It is a Seth Thomas Westminster chime mantel clock made by Talley Industries, Peterborough, Ontario in the early seventies with what appears to be an imported West German Hermle movement. This clock was cheaply constructed (corners were chipped), likely has the dreaded plated pivot problem and has absolutely no collector value. Those in the clock collecting world familiar with Seth Thomas know that it was a reputable clock maker for many years and produced many fine clocks but the Talley Industries era must have been a very dark period for the company!

rs-great-village-antiques_8 — A unique clock design

I hope this blog article gives the reader some ideas when it comes to antique shop clock shopping. It certainly pays to do your research. Although I love browsing the shops I do not limit my shopping to them. I acquire many of my clocks from a variety of sources including Ebay, Kijiji, and word of mouth but I like browsing through antique shops because there are always other interesting items that catch the eye.

December 4, 2016

Ingersoll Waterbury mantel clock servicing and a little mystery thrown in for good measure

When I bought my Ingersoll-Waterbury clock a year ago I knew that it had not been serviced but the price was reasonable and it was running. I got a lot of other projects out of the way and have finally gotten around to giving this clock a little care and attention.

Ingersoll-Waterbury clocks were sold in Canada; had Canadian made cases using American made Waterbury movements and were sold in department stores across Canada. This clock was distributed by the G. R. L’Esperance Co. from Montreal, Quebec. The label on the inside of the back access door says “Ingersoll-Waterbury Co. a division of Waterbury Clock Co.”. Ingersoll-Waterbury was the Canadian arm of the Waterbury Clock Co. Year of manufacture, I am estimating was somewhere between 1940-1944 when brass was in short supply.

The case is in very good shape though it was likely inexpensive to make. Some cost savings are evident in the use of a paper dial, flimsy clock hands and a plastic bezel with flat glass. However, I was impressed with the well designed and sturdily built movement and surprised that it did not take much to service this clock.

One unique feature is a swinging door with plastic bezel and flat glazing attached to the case by two hinges that open up to reveal the clock face and hands.

The clock has a steel frame with a brass electro-plating as a rust inhibitor and brass bushings punched into drilled holes in the steel. Steel plates are not unusual as there were a number of manufacturers which used steel as a cost savings measure, for additional strength or because brass was in short supply. The plates were often plated with nickle as in the case of Arthur Pequegnat clocks or brass as in the case of this clock. One of the first things I noticed when I dis-assembled the clock were the number of punch marks adjacent to the bushings an example of which can be seen in the next photo. It must have been difficult to achieve a tight fit for the brass bushings; factory punching ensured that the bushings remained in place.

I have just completed the servicing. The clock required three new bushings. Punching new brass bushings into the factory bushings took a little more care and attention than usual as I did not want to loosen the existing bushings.

Dis-assembly, cleaning, servicing the mainsprings, installing new bushings are no different than any other American movement. Re-assembly of the strike side requires the synchronizing of the strike side by aligning the levers and wheels correctly which usually takes several attempts for me.

The one real challenge I had was aligning the strike hammer so that it would actually strike the gong. I must have bent it when I took the clock apart. What was I thinking? I could not see the solution so I put it aside until I came up with the fix. I ended up bending it back to its correct position.

While re-installing the movement into it’s case I noticed something strange on the bottom of the clock, a mysterious hatch. On the bottom right hand side of the clock (indicated by the arrow) there is a hatch that measures 2 3/8 inches by 2 3/8 inches. On it there is an inscription which reads

“FRONT, if you know what this hatch is for, you know more than I do” signed J.H.Ross May 24, 1967.

“Front” refers to the orientation of the hatch. What is it for? I posted this on the NAWCC discussion board site and so far no-one has come up with the answer.

Why would anyone put a hatch on the bottom of this mantel clock?

Was the hatch added later on? There is a lighter colouring of the wood to the left of the green felt which seems to indicate that a hole was cut out later to accommodate the hatch.

A clasp on the other side of the hatch secures it in place and allows it to be removed.

Was the trap door a chamber to hide items? Why, when it simply opens up into the case interior.

And there’s more! Here is a view of the entire bottom showing a second cutout (see arrow) on the left side. Why go through all this trouble?

The clock is all back together and in the process of being regulated but I sure would like to solve this mystery. It has taught me one thing, always look at the bottom of a case.

November 30, 2016

Juba Schatz bim-bam mantel clock

In the clock world Germany is well known for well engineered, precision clocks. Juba Schatz is not a name one comes across often but it has solid roots in the German clock making industry.

This a an antique shop find of a clock that dates from the mid to late 1940s. Its design is understated, and reflects the minimalist lines of style common during the post war period.

This clock is in excellent condition and has some intriguing features; first, a circular disk that one rotates on the crutch to put the clock in beat to compensate for a surface that is not level; second, 4 strike rods, 1 for the first strike of the bim-bam and 3 for the second; third, a storage cradle on the back door for the pendulum bob just below the key holder and fourth, a very effective and robust two-piece steel strike lock, a aid in transporting the clock. The original operating instructions in English and German were included.

Juba instructions — Juba clock instructions

Bim-bam clocks are not unique. Many companies made bim-bam clocks. They appealed to the masses due to the distinctive strike. The mechanical strike mechanism is made up of two and sometimes up to four finely tuned copper rods (as in this clock) mounted to a cast iron block.

At one time clocks with unique tonal sounds were called Normandy chimes. Instead of one strike on the hour and half hour, there were two. It was a musical dual tone, instead of a single, (often harsh sounding) single hourly or half hour strike. The American Gilbert Clock Company made several mantel clocks in the 1920s that had what Gilbert termed a “Normandy Chime”. Gilbert explicitly called this the “Normandy Chime”, which was supposed to have been patterned off the old bells of Normandy, The Normandy chime is the precursor to the bim-bam.

Information on this clock company is scarce. Several YouTube videos demonstrate a chiming or a striking Juba clock but contain no description or history of the company.

Juba movement showing pendulum and strike hammers — Juba movement showing pendulum, strike hammers and circular level compensation disk

The formal company name is Jahresuhren-Fabrik August Schatz und Söhne gmbh. I discovered that the company was formed in 1881 and ceased production in 1981. It was started by August Schatz who was born in 1854 and died in 1927. Family members took over the company after his death.

Schatz are best known for anniversary and mariner clocks but made cottage clocks, bracket clocks, mantel clocks, kitchen clocks and watches as well.

I will continue my search for more information about this important German maker.

October 30, 2016

What the term a “fully serviced” clock really means

Everybody appreciates a serviced clock when they are making a purchase. However, there is no acceptable definition for the term “Fully Serviced”. Fully serviced may mean one thing for the amateur clock collector and repairer and another to a professional clock repair shop.

The other day I was responding to a FaceBook post which offered a mantel clock for sale. The owner said that the clock, a 100+ year old antique, had been “fully serviced” so I asked him what he meant by that since I was curious. He said the clock was ultrasonically cleaned, the pivots were inspected, and the clock was oiled. He did not actually state that the clock was disassembled before cleaning but I assume that it was done properly although dunk and swish (or duncan swish) techniques are used more often that we realize. Dunk and swish involves immersing the entire unassembled movement into a cleaning solution and calling it “cleaned”. However, no reputable clock repair person (horologist) would employ this method. By using the term “fully serviced” the seller naturally expects to get several tens of dollars more for the clock.

No doubt who ever buys the clock will get a couple of years of service before it again needs attention. My concern is the state of the bushing holes and of course the pivots in a 100 year old clock and chances are it was not serviced properly in it’s past life.

I have disassembled and serviced a few clocks in my limited experience and my observation is that the older the clock the more the need for bushing and other repairs. My definition of servicing is this; disassemble and totally strip down, ultrasonically clean, springs unwound, inspected and oiled, pivots inspected and polished, pivot holes pegged and bushings installed / replaced if necessary, other parts inspected and addressed and the movement tested and regulated before re-installing in the case. My servicing also includes a case refresh. I serviced a 1920s Sessions Beveled No. 2 clock this spring (2016) that required 12 bushings.

Sessions Beveled No. 2 case — Sessions Beveled No. 2 time and strike in as-found condition

My Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock pictured here was professionally serviced in 2015 by a reputable clock shop and also required 12 bushings.

RS Pequegnat fan top (3) — Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock in as-found condition

I am currently working on a 1940s Ingersoll Waterbury which was not too badly worn but still required 3 new bushings.

This American Ingersoll Waterbury clock, circa 1940, required 3 bushings,

If you poke around some of the clock for sale sites you will see a description that reads something like this, “all of our clocks are fully serviced and tested to ensure reliable running”. But if you bring up the profile on any one of the clocks offered for sale they generally do not describe how it was serviced and / or the actual service done on the clock.

I see plenty of antique and vintage clocks on the local online for-sale sites. Many have not been serviced as you would expect but some sellers claim that their clock has been fully serviced without providing any detail about what was actually done or whether it was a backyard tinkerer who did the servicing or a professional shop. The Juba Schatz mantel clock you see in the first photo might even be described as “serviced” but all I did was take the movement out of it’s case, inspect the pivots and other parts, oil the movement and return it to its case which took about 10 minutes.

“Fully serviced” to me means defining the term when selling a clock. A reputable for sale site should say something like this, ” has been fully serviced, having been totally stripped down, ultrasonically cleaned, reassembled, runs the full length of the wind and keeping excellent time, +/- 2 minutes per 7 day period”. A little more detail would be beneficial such as specific areas that needed to be addressed or particular repairs made if required but that is about as close as you will get and for those serious about a clock purchase it might be good enough.

Fully serviced means different things to different people. Always ask before you buy.

October 26, 2016

Smiths Enfield Art Deco mantel clock

I absolutely love Art Deco clocks. They are understated, elegant, have great collector value and are timeless, of course (!).

Although we tend to throw the term around loosely Art Deco is actually derived from the phrase Arts Décoratifs which was a dominant decorative art style of the 1920s and 1930s, it’s heyday. This unique form is characterized by precise, bold geometric shapes and strong contrasting colors, used most notably in household objects, and, of course, in clock design as we see here. Style Moderne (as Art Deco was otherwise known) originated in France and was centered in Paris, just before World War I and became very popular after the Great War (World War I). Perhaps the most visible example of Art Deco architecture is the Chrysler Building in New York City in this photo taken from the Empire State Building in 2014.

The Art Deco style had a far reaching influence and permanency that went far beyond the 20s and 30s through to articles, objects, architecture, furniture and yes, even clocks to this very day.

This is a Smiths Enfield Art Deco style clock. The Enfield Clock company was started by two German brothers in Enfield, North London, in the early twentieth century. During the Second World War (1939-1945) they were the major UK supplier for essential aircraft clocks and instruments. After the war the company vigorously resumed clock and watch production. No doubt most homes in Britain at that time had a Smiths clock. The Smiths Clock Co. became Smiths Enfield in 1949 and the Smiths Enfield name first appeared in catalogs from 1950 onward.

Smiths Enfield shelf clock — Smiths Enfield clock on a shelf

This elegant Smiths Enfield oak case time and strike shelf clock was made somewhere between 1949 and 1955. I know little of the provenance of this particular clock suffice to say that it came from overseas where it likely spent it’s life in someone’s home prior to coming to Canada about a year or two ago. The clerk at the antique shop located in Halliburton, Ontario this past summer (2016) told me that the owner of the shop purchases the bulk of his antiques from Ireland and judging from the store contents he imports a quite a lot of antiques and a lot of clocks.

The oak cabinet is made up of veneers and solids and is well constructed. The case is in excellent condition with nary a nick or scratch; required a soap and water cleaning and a little lemon-based furniture polish to bring the shine up. The clock runs well and keeps relatively good time although it certainly requires a thorough cleaning.

Floating balances were introduced by Smiths Enfield in 1956. Since this clock has a pendulum it was manufactured during the period I mentioned above (1949 to 1955). The inverted numbers on the lower clock face, which at first look strange, are actually very common on clocks with Roman Numerals.

It has a coiled gong and a nice pleasant strike if I can get the hammer to strike the gong as it should. A trial and error approach ensuring that the hammer is above but not quite touching the gong or replacement of the hammer leather are two possible solutions.

This is one of two cottage clocks I have. By that I mean they are literally at my summer cottage, and since it remains at my cottage a cleaning will have to wait until next summer.

October 21, 2016

Copyright, what does it mean for you and me?

The other day, I was browsing through a local online for-sale site looking for antique and vintage clocks and saw a Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock for sale. From the photo it looked great. But wait!

Here is one photo from the ad.

RS Mauthe mantle clock (11) — Mauthe mantel clock

Why would I post a photo from the ad? Simple. It is my photo. The seller had the identical clock for sale and thought he would use my image to promote the offering. In my view he committed two fundamental errors. First he used a protected image without permission and second he was misrepresenting the ad by using my image for a clock he was promoting.

I corresponded with the seller, told him that he could not use my photos because they are copyright protected. He argued that unless it expressly states that it is copy-protected he is free to use any image he wants. After I threatened to advise the site administrators of his use of my photos he took the photos down. Copyright law regarding photos can be vague though the simple rule of thumb is that it you have any doubts about the use of a photo don’t use it. Had the seller contacted me and asked for permission, that would have been a different story and at least I would have been able to exercise my right to grant permission or not.

From the time it is created, a photo or other image is automatically protected by copyright. Infringement can include the use of whole or part of a photo without permission as in this particular case. Just because an image is on the internet, it doesn’t mean the image is free to use. Many people do not fully realize this. If the image is free to use it will say “in the public domain”. The law is very clear on this.

Needless to say all images on this blog are owned by me and for good reason!

October 14, 2016

Servicing a Sessions American No. 2 mantel clock Part III

The movement is disassembled and now it is time for further inspection, cleaning, servicing the mainsprings, pegging the pivot holes, polishing the pivots and installing bushings where needed. In this, Part III we will cover cleaning and mainspring servicing.

I have a small ultrasonic cleaner so I tend to clean parts in batches since this one does not have a large capacity. An ultrasonic cleaner is not an absolute must as you can easily clean by hand but having one certainly helps.

Old toothbrushes are great for getting into the crevices and I use one especially for the lantern pinions as a lot of dirt and old oil tend to accumulate in those particular areas.

indicating wjehere bushings will be installed — indicating where bushings will be installed

This photo shows a couple of bushings that I will install. I realize that some prefer to install bushings by hand and I applaud them as it does take considerable skill but I use a Bergeon Bushing Machine which I believe simplifies the task (for me, at least). More on bushing in the next part of this series.

An Olie Baker spring winder is an indispensable tool. You can easily make one of your own to save a little money if you are handy with building things. A spring winder permits you to inspect for cracks or breaks, clean and oil the springs before reinstalling them. The photo shows a C-clamp securing the mainspring prior to cleaning.

I have never lost an eye or a finger but I believe in safety first especially when working with mainsprings. Always wear leather gloves and eye protection. You never know when a 100 year old spring will break and fly across the room.

I discovered that one click had to be replaced as it was almost slipping off the ratchet. As some clock repair folks know, Sessions clocks have a reputation for bad clicks. I had a Sessions click in my supply box, fortunately. It is an easy job; just take the old one out with pliers, secure the new click and bang the rivet (supplied) into the existing hole with a ball peen hammer.

The springs have been cleaned and oiled with Keystone Mainspring Oil and are completely serviced including the installation of one new click. Now comes the bushing work, re-assembly and testing. Stay tuned to Part IV of this series.

September 28, 2016

Sessions Beveled Number 2

Regular readers might have followed my progress on this 1927 Sessions tambour style clock.

After installing 10 bushings, replacing the pendulum bob and suspension spring and reassembling and oiling the clock and the springs I am now in the process of regulating this old clock. I am finding that despite all the work I have put into this clock, it will run for only 6 days and it does not seem to want to run the full eight day cycle. Perhaps there is other wear that I am not detecting or the springs are weak.

I wound the clock again this morning and we will see how long this cycle will go before stopping. Everything is synchronized thanks to Steven Conover’s helpful book on striking clocks. Is it a success since it was a non-running clock when I acquired it last fall.

July 16, 2016

The Bracket Clock

Let me take you on a brief journey as we explore the history of the bracket clock. If you’re already familiar with them, perhaps I can offer some additional insights into what exactly defines a bracket clock.

RS Hermle bracket clock (4) — _{Hermle Bracket clock, circa 1990}

So, what exactly is a bracket clock? A bracket clock is a type of shelf or mantel clock.

Bracket clocks date back to the 1600s, with the earliest examples being weight-driven clocks crafted by skilled artisans. These clocks were designed to hang on wall brackets, allowing the weights to descend freely. The movement was typically plated, meaning it consisted of plates with bearing or pivot holes, connected by horizontal pillars. Early bracket clocks used verge escapements, a mechanism dating back to the 13th century, which remained in use until the late 17th century, when the recoil anchor escapement was introduced.

As time progressed, bracket clocks transitioned to spring-driven movements, making them portable and easier for homeowners to move from room to room. Given their high cost, their portability was highly valued, as most owners could not afford to have multiple clocks in their homes.

These clocks were often striking clocks, with many featuring silencers that allowed the owner to turn off the striking mechanism at night, especially in the bedroom. Additionally, bracket clocks were commonly repeaters, meaning they could repeat the last hour with the pull of a chord or lever. As spring-driven movements became more common in the 1700s, the term “bracket” continued to be associated with this style of clock.

RS Hermle bracket clock (9) — _{Bracket clock with ornate dial face},_{cast feet, and carrying handle}

Bracket clocks were a reflection of the design trends of their time, often featuring intricate and ornate details. These clocks typically had wood cases, with finishes like oak or mahogany burl and walnut, adorned with floral decorations. The dials were often engraved, cast, or silvered, and many featured subsidiary dials, spandrels around the main dial, molded bases, and sculpted brass feet, adding to their visual appeal.

Antique bracket clocks are among the most elegant timepieces you can find for a home. The first two photographs showcase a modern Hermle bracket clock with Westminster chimes and a moon phase feature. Although this clock is 20 years old, a similar model from Hermle, called the Debden, is still available for purchase. The Debden includes side windows (which mine does not) and offers additional details, all for under $800.00.

Bracket clocks are timeless pieces that blend functionality with exquisite craftsmanship, reflecting the design styles of their eras. Whether antique or modern, these clocks remain a beautiful and elegant addition to any home, offering both aesthetic appeal and the charm of fine clockmaking.

July 13, 2016

Clocks in their natural surroundings

I noticed this topic in a well frequented clock forum site and it prompted me to write this article.

Many clock collectors realize that presentation is everything. I have about 25 clocks on display in my home and in each case I try as much as possible to situate the clock so that it catches the eye, enhances the room and stimulates conversation from friends and family.

I try not to place more than one clock in one particular location. However, I also recognize that some collectors wish to display their entire collection by having multiple clocks in one particular spot. If this is your choice, it makes perfect sense to group your clocks into types. They may be according to maker, style, type, vintage / age, or country of origin. For example, a collection might have wall clocks in one area or room, shelf clocks in another area or room, European clocks in one area, North American clocks in another and so on. I have observed that some presentations are very well thought out with a distinct theme running through while I have seen other collections that are haphazard and confusing. It takes a little care and attention when arranging your collection.

Some collectors place limits on how many clocks are displayed at one time and how many are actually running at one time. Most of the clocks I have on display are running continually but I tend to allow some clocks to stop for a “break”. Occasionally I will change the location of some clocks for a little variety keeping in mind that some are quite sensitive to being moved.

Let me show you some examples of my arrangements. You can see just three clocks in the following photo. There are in fact 7 clocks in this room but since it is a fairly large room the clocks can be nicely spread out. The most prominent is a 2-weight Gustav Becker circa 1902 which I have written about in several posts. It is 51 inches in height and certainly commands the room. At the bottom centre is a Seth Thomas time and strike round-top cottage clock made in the 1930`s and to the right is an Ansonia time-only short drop octagon, circa 1895.

clocks in a living room — Clocks in a front room

If you prefer your collection confined to one room rather than spreading the clocks throughout the house, that is certainly another option. While some prefer to consolidate their collection in one area of the house others, like myself, prefer to have clocks in almost every room. It is a matter of choice and of course, what your partner can tolerate.

RS Ridgeway clock_2 — Ridgeway tall case clock

In another example my Ridgeway tall case (or grandfather clock) is one of two clocks in an entrance hallway. Unfortunately, this tall case clock is the only one I have room for. If I find another, this one would have to go. The other clock in the entrance hallway is an Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time wall clock seen here.

RS Pequegnat — Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock

RS AP repaired_5 — Arthur Pequegnat Brandon schoolhouse clock

This schoolhouse clock is on the second floor of my home. We have a very simple rule; no striking clocks on the second floor for obvious reasons. The sound of a striking clock tends to keep some folks awake.

This U.M. Muller time and strike wall clock is our go-to kitchen clock.

RS Kitchen clock — U M Muller wall clock

And finally here is a Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock appropriately placed on top of a 1947 Stromberg Carlson console radio in our dining room.

RS Mauthe mantle clock (28) — Mauthe mantel clock

It does not take much to carefully place clocks in the home but it does require some amount of thoughtfulness, care and attention. Let me know what you think about arranging your collection.

Clock collectors understand the importance of presentation when displaying their collection. While it’s generally recommended to avoid placing multiple clocks in one location, some collectors choose to showcase their entire collection together. In such cases, grouping the clocks based on maker, style, type, vintage/age, or country of origin can create a cohesive and visually appealing arrangement. Thoughtful and well-planned presentations with a distinct theme running through them tend to be more successful than haphazard and confusing displays.

It’s common for collectors to set limits on the number of clocks displayed and running at any given time. Some clocks may be allowed to stop for a “break” while others continue to run continuously. Occasionally changing the location of clocks can add variety, but it’s important to consider the sensitivity of certain clocks to being moved.

For example, in one photo, there are three prominently displayed clocks in a large room, including a 2-weight Gustav Becker clock from 1902, a Seth Thomas round-top cottage clock, and an Ansonia short drop octagon clock. The arrangement allows the clocks to command attention without overcrowding the space.

Another option is to confine the collection to one room, while others prefer to have clocks distributed throughout the house. The choice depends on personal preference and the tolerance of one’s partner.

In an entrance hallway, the Ridgeway tall case clock shares space with an Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time wall clock. The limitations of the hallway restrict the number of clocks displayed.

A schoolhouse clock is placed on the second floor, following the rule of avoiding striking clocks in upper-level rooms to prevent disturbing sleep.

The kitchen features a U.M. Muller time and strike wall clock, which serves as a reliable timepiece for the household.

Lastly, a Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock sits atop a 1947 Stromberg Carlson console radio in the dining room, adding a touch of elegance to the space.

Arranging a clock collection requires thoughtful consideration, care, and attention. It’s essential to find a balance between showcasing the clocks and maintaining a visually pleasing and harmonious environment. Each placement decision contributes to the overall aesthetic and impact of the collection within the home.

June 13, 2016

Update to my clock museum post

The curator of The Canadian Clock museum was kind enough to respond to an email I sent concerning the absence of Martin Cheney clocks as well as provide further information on the collection.

First of all, Mr. Symons explained that the museum profiles two centuries of Canadian clocks, which include many Canadian manufacturers that represent 90% of the collection of over 2600 examples. The problem, he says, with Martin Cheney clocks is the cost. He is most certainly correct; most I have seen have been in the $5000-10,000.00 ballpark. The museum always considers donations, and if anyone out there feels they can part with their Martin Cheney wall or tall case clock, I am sure that Allan Symons would graciously accept it.

Mr. Symons notes one clarification. “The Seth Thomas Clock Company in the U.S. (dating back to the early 1800’s) became part of a larger company that owned Westclox in the early 1930s. Starting then, Seth Thomas “brand” mantel, alarm, and wall models were made in part of the existing Westclox Canada factory in Peterborough. Ontario, Canada. That new factory had opened in 1923 to produce Westclox clocks for the Canadian market, after about three years in rented space in Peterborough.”

The reference library now has over 500 titles on all aspects of horology, and visitors are welcome to sit down and conduct research on clock companies in general or a specific family clock.

RS Peggy doing some research (1) — _{Conducting research on a Forestville mantel clock}

RS Peggy doing some research (2) — _{Catalog of Canadian makers}

Thanks for an email from a reader in Romania who provided information on the Clock Museum in Ploiesti, Romania. This museum recently reopened after undergoing some renovation work and profiles European clocks from the 18th century. From their website, “Those who visit the museum have the occasion to follow the way in which the means of measuring the time had developed, from the first “clocks”- the sun dial, the burning clocks, the clocks with water (the outline of the clock with water being taken over from d’Horologerie Ancienne) or the clocks with sand; up to the “ancient” mechanical and modern ones.”

“Muzeul Ceasului from Ploiesti shows us such “folk clocks”, some with simple or double ringing with flute players, some others quite monumental, with rich ornamental design, dated in the 18th and the 19th centuries. The folk influence inspired the creation of the wall clocks in straight cases, made by lathering. Some of them are created in Romania, having German or Austrian mechanismes.”

For more information please visit this fine museum at http://www.cimec.ro/muzee/Ceasuri/ceas_eng.htm

Sounds like a very interesting museum and one that I will put on my “must see” list.

June 1, 2016

Ingraham Huron shelf clock- Part II

clock movement — Ingraham Movement with two patent dates, Oct 6, 1878 and Nov 6, 1879

In my last post I profiled my latest acquisition (April 2016), a Ingraham Huron shelf clock, and now we will look at the movement, the case in more detail and other aspects of this fine clock.

RS Ingraham Huron (1) — Rosewood veneers with striking grain effect

RS Ingraham Huron (23) — Ingraham Huron shelf clock

What makes this clock special is the case. The movement, a time and strike, was found in thousands of Ingraham clocks. There is nothing unique about it.

I had an opportunity to take a closer look at the clock movement today (April 12, 2016) and here are my impressions. When I took off the dial pan I immediately observed how much cleaner and brighter the movement was than I expected. A pleasant surprise.

It was clearly evident that the clock had been worked on at least once in its life. A number of bushings had been installed, 8 in the front alone (and perhaps a number on the back plate), however, there was no evidence of poor repair. The clock was serviced by a clock repair shop owned by a gentleman named Hebb in 1944, Bridgewater, Nova Scotia as he left his pencil notation to that effect inside the case. There is no label on the inside of the clock; it would have been nice to see one. However, I do not see any evidence that one was ever there.

clock pendulum — Pendulum with patent from Dec 11. 1877

I discovered the suspension spring was bent so much so that the pendulum bob was striking one side of the case. It was likely transported with the pendulum attached. That could have been years ago and perhaps the seller thought it was not repairable.

A quick fix. Take the rod and suspension spring (one piece) off the post and unbend it, reinstall it and give the pendulum a push and adjust the verge to find the beat. I applied a little pivot oil to the bushings in the front of the clock and observed the action. I was initially getting 3-5 minutes before the clock simply stopped. Okay, let’s try this again, I said. In time up to 10-15 minutes and now as I sit here it is running 2-3 hours before stopping. The escape wheel is wobbly (bad bushing) and a few other bushings are suspect but if I can get to to run reliably for several hours I will pull the movement out and lubricate the bushings on the other side. Granted, this is no substitute for a proper servicing but it allows me to determine how much of a repair it requires. On the other hand, the strike side seems to be functioning normally.

On the upper right side of the movement there is a long rod that is looped at both ends. One end is attached to the count wheel lever. I am thinking two things, first, a way of determining the time in a darkened room or or secondly, a method of syncing the strike with the time. It is in a very awkward location and I wonder, why not just turn the hour hand, which is a friction fit, to the corresponding strike if it is for syncing the time.

Otherwise the case hardware, hinges and clasps are in excellent condition. The glass is perfect. The hands look a little unusual though I believe they are the original.

I let the clock sit for a couple of days to give me an opportunity to work on the case. Such a beautifully designed case with rich rosewood veneers. It was very grimy with years of oils and dirt. I used my go-to cleaning solution, Murphy’s Soap which quite literally took off all that dirt and grime. The soap leaves a little residue which can be polished out much like wax. The gleam of the rosewood veneer suddenly came to life.

My first inclination when I first looked at the clock was that some minor case restoration was needed but after cleaning the case I was really impressed with the results. Not much else has to be done but the only area that concerned me was the base trim which I thought could use a little attention. You can see here where the finish has been abraded due to years of cleaning around the clock.

Here are some before and after shots of my work on the case. The rosewood veneers are in fine shape but you can see the base pieces had been scuffed and marred over time. The first is the before photo showing marred corners and areas where finish has lifted off the trim.

RS Ingraham Huron (21) — Before cleaning the case and it’s trim piece

The second and third photos show the results of a very through cleaning of the case and base trim pieces which included taking off what I believe was a whitish patch of lifted finish with a sharp razor followed by a light application of yellow shellac.

RS case (1) — After a thorough cleaning and a light application of shellac

RS case (3) — Second photo taken with a camera flash showing the base pieces

Shellac, a protective wood covering would have been used at the time the clock was made. I am pleased with the results and now on to the movement itself.

So far so good. This clock will certainly occupy a prominent location in our home.

April 12, 2016

Winding Arbours or Winding Points and Their Function

The Difference Between Strike and Chime

Where Winding Points Are Located

The Running Time or Cycle of a Clock

Clock Keys

Key Size and Type

Over-winding a clock is a common myth. A clock which “appears” to be over-wound seizes because of a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil

Winding Your Mechanical Clock

Clocks with Weights

Final thoughts

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