I wrote recently about a two-weight Gustav Becker regulator wall clock that my wife bought for me in 2016. It was sold as a “project clock.” While the case presented its own challenges, the real difficulties lay in the movement.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator
At the time, I was unfamiliar with Gustav Becker movements and only gradually realized that several key components were missing, likely harvested by a previous owner. One such part was the star wheel—an early lesson in the fact that Gustav Becker made design changes over time, and that parts are not always interchangeable.
After unsuccessfully attempting to source correct replacement parts, I ultimately replaced the original 1902 movement with a complete 1918 P27 movement. That movement has run reliably for more than nine years, making the recent strike failure described here not unexpected.
The clock began stopping intermittently during the warning phase, with the warning lever appearing to bind at the stop-wheel pin. Given the movement’s long service interval and the absence of obvious damage, the symptoms point toward accumulated wear rather than a sudden component failure.
The movement is now fully disassembled and awaiting the next steps. In this blog article, the focus will be on cleaning and initial inspection for wear. In a post to follow, I will document bushing work, reassembly, and testing required to restore reliable strike operation before returning the movement to the case.
When I first received the replacement movement, I inspected it and found everything to be in good order, with no appreciable wear. I cleaned the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner; however, at the time, I did not completely disassemble the winding drums, as I believed there was no need to do so. On this occasion, the winding drums must be disassembled, as the cables are becoming frayed just outside the drum, requiring access to the knotted ends.
Winding drum with gear wheel and spring removed
I inspected the braided cables and, rather than replace them, decided to reuse them. Although cutting off the knot at the barrel end will shorten the cables slightly, re-knotting the hook ends (the bottom of the movement) will restore them to their original length, so the run time should not be affected.
Mixing up winding drum parts might not be an issue, but safer to separate them
In the ultrasonic, I kept the winding drum parts separate. They may be interchangeable, but at this point, I’m not taking any chances. Interestingly, over a dozen parts make up each drum, most of which were taken apart for cleaning. I saw no need to disassemble the click spring, however. Once all the parts are out of the ultrasonic and dried thoroughly, the first step is to reassemble the winding drums and their cables, and set them aside for now.
Now that the movement is clean and the pivot holes have been pegged, it is time to turn our attention to the action of the gears. I first assembled and tested the time side and could find no perceptible wear. It’s a pretty simple setup with only 3 wheels: the second larger wheel, the third wheel, and the escape wheel. There are also 3 wheels on the strike side ending with the fly/governor. On the strike side, I can find some lateral movement of the pivots on the count wheel front and back plate, and the stop wheel, back, and possibly the front plate.
With the inspection complete, attention turned to the strike side, where the expected story revealed itself. Wear at several pivot holes was evident, the kind of wear you expect to find in a P27 movement that has been doing its job for well over a century. So, there is work to be done.
Did I wait too long? Yes, perhaps 9 years is a bit too long an interval between servicing points. None of it was alarming, but it does help explain some of the strike-related issues observed earlier. Addressing these worn areas will be an important next step, not only to improve performance but to give the strike train the freedom and reliability it needs for years to come.
In 2016, my wife gifted me a two-weight Gustav Becker regulator wall clock. It was a much-appreciated gift, and I spent many hours restoring it, as it had been sold as a “project clock.” The case certainly had its issues, but the most challenging problems lay in the movement itself.
At the time, I was not familiar with Gustav Becker movements, and it did not immediately occur to me that several key components were missing—almost as if a previous owner had harvested parts for another clock. One example was the absence of the star wheel. I contacted the seller, who kindly sent several replacement parts, including a star wheel. Unfortunately, it did not fit.
Missing star wheel, which should be just below the minute wheel
It was then that I learned Gustav Becker had made design changes to these movements over time, meaning that not all parts are interchangeable. It appears the star wheel was sourced from a later model.
That led me to source a replacement movement, which I was able to obtain through an eBay seller. The price was more reasonable than I expected, and the movement arrived intact. Initially, I thought I could harvest parts from it for the original movement; however, as I had already learned with the star wheel, some parts did not fit.
Using replacement parts in antique clocks presents a number of challenges beyond simple fit and function. Even when parts appear correct, subtle differences in design, dimensions, or period manufacturing can affect performance and reliability.
From a collector’s perspective, non-original or mismatched components may also impact a clock’s historical authenticity and, in some cases, its market value. For the restorer, this often requires balancing mechanical integrity and long-term usability against the desire to preserve originality as much as possible. Of course, to the casual observer, the clock appears original.
I ultimately decided to abandon the 1902 movement and use the 1918 P27 one instead. The 1918 movement has been running flawlessly for the past 9 plus year and that is why the issue I am describing in this post surprises me. Or, should it!
Most people would be inclined to dismiss the problem by simply restarting the clock, which is what I initially did, but several hours later, the clock stopped again.
The problem is this: the warning lever, which drops into the warning wheel to stop the strike in warning, seems to freeze intermittently. For proper function, the strike release lever is lifted by the minute wheel pin to release the warning lever. I believe the issue occurs at the stop-wheel pin, where it appears to bind or stick. When I manually lift the warning lever to release the stop wheel, the strike train will run for a while, then stick again.
When I disassembled the movement, I checked for broken or bent teeth, bent pins, and the general condition of the pivots. Everything appeared to look good. However, given that the clock has been running for a long period, the issue now seems more consistent with wear than with a sudden component failure.
One issue could be that excess endshake may be allowing the stop wheel to move fore and aft, altering how the stop pin engages the warning lever. Additionally, many weight-driven warning levers rely purely on gravity for return; any increase in friction can cause the lever to hesitate or become caught on the edge of the pin. For these reasons, I believe this is a general wear issue rather than a broken or failed component.
By way of comparison, the average American-made movement produced a century ago could often continue to run reasonably well despite significant wear, whereas German movements—built with tiny pivots and very close tolerances—tend to be far more sensitive to wear, dirt, and minor loss of power. This difference should perhaps not be unexpected.
The movement is currently disassembled and, after many years of service, likely requires bushing work.
In short, the symptoms point to accumulated wear rather than a specific failed part. The movement will therefore receive full bushing work where needed, followed by a thorough cleaning, reassembly, and testing on the stand. Only once the strike operates consistently and reliably under full weight will the movement be returned to the case.
For clock collectors, presentation is just as important as the clocks themselves. A well-arranged collection not only enhances a space but also invites conversation and appreciation. While some collectors prefer to distribute their clocks throughout their home, others opt to showcase them all in one dedicated space. Regardless of your approach, thoughtful arrangement can make a significant difference.
Seth Thomas in an entrance hallway
One general guideline is to avoid clustering too many clocks in one area, allowing each piece to stand out. However, if you prefer to group multiple clocks together, consider organizing them by maker, style, type, era, or country of origin. A collection arranged with a clear theme creates a cohesive and visually appealing display, whereas a more haphazard approach can feel cluttered and overwhelming.
Deciding How Many Clocks to Display
Many collectors set limits on how many clocks are displayed at one time—and how many are actually running. While I keep most of my displayed clocks running, I occasionally let some take a “break.” Changing a clock’s location from time to time can refresh a room’s look, though it’s important to remember that some clocks are sensitive to movement.
Ingraham Huron shelf clock on a Westinghouse floor model radio
For example, in one of my larger rooms, I have four clocks, but they are spaced out so as not to compete for attention. The most striking piece is a 2-weight Gustav Becker Vienna regulator from 1902—at 51 inches tall, it naturally commands the space. On another wall is a Arthur Pequegnat wall clock, an Ingraham shelf clock that sits on an old Westinghouse radio, and a 1996 Ridgeway tall case to complete the arrangement. The layout ensures that each clock is showcased without overwhelming the room.
Gustav Becker and Ridgeway (foreground)
Placement Considerations
Some collectors prefer to dedicate a single room to their clocks, creating a focused display, while others, like myself, enjoy integrating clocks throughout the home. Of course, what works best also depends on what your partner is willing to tolerate!
In my entrance hallway, for example, my Seth Thomas Regulator #2 greets the visitor to my home. Also in the hallway is an Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time wall clock.
On the second floor, a Pequegnat Brandon schoolhouse clock is positioned where it can be admired, but in keeping with a simple household rule—no striking clocks upstairs to ensure a peaceful night’s sleep.
In the dining room, a Gilbert shelf clock sits atop a 1947 Stromberg Carlson console radio, blending vintage charm with functionality.
The Art of Thoughtful Display
Arranging a clock collection takes more than just placing timepieces on a shelf—it requires an eye for balance, harmony, and practicality. A well-considered display not only highlights the beauty of each clock but also enhances the overall aesthetic of your home. Whether you prefer a carefully curated showcase or a more casual arrangement, the key is to strike a balance between functionality and visual appeal.
Our Kitchen clock
How do you display your collection? Do you prefer grouping clocks together, or spreading them throughout your home? Let me know your thoughts!
Have you ever come across the term FrankenClock in the world of clock collecting? If not, let me explain.
Imagine purchasing a clock, hoping that every mechanical component, finial, and piece of trim is original, only to later discover—through experience, research, or sheer luck—that it isn’t. How would that make you feel? Disappointed? Cheated? Many collectors have faced this reality. A clock with non-original or mismatched parts is often referred to as a FrankenClock.
A Case in Point -A Gustav Becker Two-Weight Vienna Regulator
To illustrate, let me share the story of my own Vienna regulator clock that I purchased in 2016. At a glance, it presents very well, keeps excellent time, and has undergone necessary restoration, thorough cleaning, oiling, and case repairs. But is it original in every way? No, not by a long shot.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator
When I purchased this clock, it was sold as a “project clock,” with the seller making no claims about its originality—a fair and transparent transaction reflected in what I determined to be a fair price in 2016. Over time, I uncovered several details that revealed its true history.
The following is what I now know concerning my Gustav Becker 8-day time and strike wall clock
The Glass Panels
When the clock arrived, I had no way of knowing whether the glass panels—the front door glass and side lights—were original. It became a moot point when they shattered during shipping. The case also sustained damage, though not severe enough to require new parts—mostly just glue failing and pieces coming loose. When I took the case to a glass installer, they asked two key questions: Why is the side glass thicker than the front glass? And why were finishing nails used to secure the panels? These details cast doubt on whether the glass that came with the clock was original. In any event, the panels were replaced with new glass.
What I had assumed to be original was, in fact, another chapter in the clock’s long journey.
The Weights
At first glance, the clock’s two weights appeared identical. However, closer inspection revealed a subtle difference in their hook designs. Given Gustav Becker’s reputation for precision, it seems unlikely that the factory would have issued mismatched weights. This suggests that at least one weight is a replacement (and probably both, for that matter).
The Movement
The movement appears appropriate for the period and case, but is it original? The seller had disclosed missing parts, including the star wheel/snail, strike hammer, and rod. Additionally, the gathering pallet was bent, preventing the strike side from functioning. It was evidently harvested for parts.
Determined to restore the clock, I sourced what I thought was an exact donor movement from Poland—specifically from Gustav Becker’s Braunau factory (as opposed to the Silesia factory). However, despite being only 16 years newer, the donor movement had subtle differences: thinner plates, redesigned lever springs, a slightly thicker minute arbour shaft, and incompatible strike components. Unfortunately, the replacement parts were not interchangeable with the original movement.
Though disappointed, I decided to swap the entire movement, though I kept the original movement for transparency. If I ever sell the clock, I will disclose this change along with all other modifications.
It gets better (or worse).
Replacement hands and brass bezel
Other Replacements and Repairs
The spun brass dial bezel is a period-correct replacement which I sourced because the original was bent during shipment.
Some trim pieces, such as the bottom finials may have been added later, though their exact origin remains uncertain.
The bottom center finial is a replacement. Interestingly, it has wormwood holes, whereas the case itself has no traces of worm damage.
The clock originally had Ogee clock hands rather than Vienna regulator hands. Ogee clock hands are not correct for this clock. After an extensive search through suppliers in Canada, the U.S., and Britain, I was surprised by the limited availability of Vienna regulator hands. Eventually, I sourced a set from Poland. Although they are not historically accurate and not the design that might have been on the clock face at the time, I eventually settled on sleeker hands that look appropriate and will suffice for now.
Lessons Learned
I hesitate to dig any deeper into this clock, fearing I will uncover even more shortcomings.
Despite its mix of original and replacement parts, this clock remains a valuable learning experience.
Many collectors unknowingly own FrankenClocks—clocks that have been altered with non-original or mismatched parts. While reputable auction houses often disclose repairs, replacements, or questionable components, online listings are far less reliable. Sellers on popular online marketplaces may not always be aware of a clock’s history or may choose to omit important details.
When buying a clock, especially online, approach with caution. Examine all available photos carefully, looking for inconsistencies in the case, dial, hands, movement, and other components. Ask the seller direct questions about originality, repairs, or missing parts, and request additional photos if something seems unclear. If possible, compare the clock to known examples from reference books, collector forums, online image searches, or auction archives.
Be particularly wary of listings that provide vague descriptions, low-quality images, or no mention of service history. A clock that looks pristine may have been heavily restored, while one advertised as “original” may contain replacement parts that significantly affect its value. If purchasing in person, inspect the clock thoroughly—check for signs of “over-restoration”, mismatched components, or modern hardware securing old parts. If I see a Robertson or Phillips screws on a 100+-year-old clock I immediately back away.
Ultimately, knowledge is your best defense. The more informed you are about a particular clock model, the better equipped you’ll be to recognize potential red flags before making a purchase.
Allow me to take 5 minutes of your time to watch my video of 19 wall clocks in my collection. Each wall clock is identified by its maker, where known. The video features background music throughout, with a brief segment of sound highlighting the winding of a Mauthe wall clock. Otherwise, there is no dialog.
My only requirement is that the clock must be in good working order and have an appealing appearance.
19 wall clocks in my collection
My entire collection consists of 85 clocks. Many are on display in my home, and some are in the process of restoration or repair.
Every clock owner wants to know what their clock is worth, and every seller hopes to sell for as much as possible. This guide offers a framework to evaluate antique and vintage clocks for both buyers and sellers, starting with insights into the unpredictable clock market.
The Unpredictable Clock Market
Determining the value of a clock is often challenging. The market fluctuates, and what you think your clock is worth today may not align with expert opinions or what buyers are willing to pay. Trends come and go, and the value of clocks can drop or rise unexpectedly.
For example, I once came across a mid-1990s Howard Miller grandfather clock listed on Facebook Marketplace for $3,000. After several days with minimal interest, the seller gradually lowered the price to $1,500, but it still did not sell. In reality, it was only worth around $500 on a good day.
This shows how subjective personal value can be, and the reality is that modern clocks, like many Ridgeway or Howard Miller models, often do not hold their original value. What you believe holds significant value may not align with what potential buyers are willing to pay.
Scottish tall case clock
Even an appraised value is just an educated opinion, reflecting current market conditions, the clock’s condition, and its collectibility. As market trends shift, the value of a clock can change significantly.
Factors in Assessing Clock Value
Is It Original? Originality significantly impacts value. Clocks with replaced or missing parts tend to lose their appeal to collectors. Many “Vienna Regulators” found online, for example, are hybrids of mismatched cases and movements. In some instances, parts are missing altogether.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator
Clocks marketed as “complete and original” by sellers who admit they know little about clocks should be approached with extreme caution. Always verify the clock’s parts with an expert or a reputable auction house to ensure accuracy.
What Type or Style Is It? The style or type of clock affects value. While common American mantel clocks may be worth little due to their mass production, specific models like the E.N. Welch “Patti” line or Seth Thomas Sonora clocks command high prices.
Wall clocks, especially those from the 19th century made in limited quantities, generally hold a higher value than mantel clocks which were produced in the thousands.
Seth Thomas #2 wall clock
Grandfather clocks, also known as hall clocks, longcase, or tallcase clocks, can often be acquired for a fraction of their value, despite many that are 150+ years old. Tall clocks are bulky, requiring significant floor space. Many people don’t have the room or the inclination to accommodate such large items, especially in smaller or more modern living spaces.
A Label, Trademark, or Prominent Name adds Value An intact label, trademark, or known maker adds value. A clock with a visible maker’s mark, such as an E. Howard or an original Willard banjo clock, is often sought after due to their craftsmanship and brand recognition.
A label, trademark, or maker’s mark verifies the clock’s authenticity, confirming that it is an original piece from a recognized manufacturer. This eliminates doubts about whether the clock is a reproduction or a mix of parts, which increases its value to collectors.
Pequegnat Canadian Time clock label
A visible maker’s mark or label helps establish the clock’s provenance, providing important information about its origin, manufacturer, and production period. Clocks with clear histories, especially from reputable makers, are more desirable because they can be accurately placed within historical or stylistic contexts.
A clock’s history can boost its value. A story or historical significance attached to a clock, or a clock with a clear and documented background may attract more buyers and command a higher price.
Reproduction labels or unmarked movements raise red flags for serious collectors.
The Correct Period or a Reproduction? Period authenticity is key. Many reproduction clocks closely resemble originals from the early 1900s but have far less value. For example, Seth Thomas reissued its famous Regulator #2 in the 1970s, but collectors prefer the originals from the late 1800s, which have clearer distinguishing features.
Reproduction clocks are often made with modern manufacturing techniques and less expensive materials, resulting in a lower quality product compared to hand-crafted originals. Collectors and buyers appreciate the craftsmanship of original clocks, which were made with more attention to detail and durability.
Some sellers would pass off this 1970s Jauch clock as an antique
Original clocks from the early 1900s carry historical value due to their connection to a specific time period, reflecting the craftsmanship, design, and technology of that era. Reproduction clocks, even if they mimic the look of the originals, lack this historical significance, making them less valuable to collectors.
Novice collectors are often tempted by reproductions (particularly if the clock is passed off as original), and if they’re uncertain, they should consult a professional for guidance.
Age and Condition A clock’s condition is crucial to its value. Clocks with missing pieces, broken hands, or poorly repainted dials are worth much less, even if they are from reputable makers. Age alone does not guarantee value—certain styles or makers, despite being centuries old, may not be popular among collectors.
Some buyers are specifically looking for clocks in original, unrestored condition, even with signs of wear. Restoration can eliminate the clock’s patina, which is often considered part of its historical appeal.
A well-functioning clock is more appealing to buyers. Properly repairing the movement restores its functionality, often increasing its resale value, as people are naturally drawn to a working clock.
In some cases, restoring a clock too thoroughly—by polishing, repainting, or replacing parts—can strip away its historical character. Over-restored clocks may look “too new,” which can detract from their antique charm and value.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf fantop restored case
The cost of repairing or refinishing a clock may outweigh the potential increase in resale value. If the clock isn’t particularly rare or valuable, to begin with, investing heavily in restoration may not yield a return in the marketplace. Sellers often do not service their clocks, either because they lack the necessary skills or because the cost of repair doesn’t justify the potential profit.
Is the Clock Collectible? Desirability can be influenced by rarity and regional interest. For instance, Arthur Pequegnat clocks are highly sought after in Canada but may fetch lower prices outside the country. True Vienna Regulators from the early 19th century are another example of rare clocks that remain valuable, especially when they are original and authentic.
The Mechanism Type The complexity of a clock’s mechanism can impact its value. Clocks with a three-train mechanism (time, strike, and chime) tend to be more valuable than simpler two-train or one-train models.
Clocks with more complex mechanisms, such as those with three-train movements, demonstrate a higher level of craftsmanship. These mechanisms control multiple functions, like chiming, striking, and keeping time, requiring greater precision and skill in their design and assembly. As a result, clocks with such elaborate mechanisms are often considered superior and more desirable, elevating their market value.
More complex mechanisms, like three-weight Vienna Regulator Grande Sonnerie clocks, are generally rarer than their single- or two-train counterparts. The production of these complex movements required more skill and was often reserved for higher-end models or special commissions, making them less common and more sought after by collectors. Their scarcity in the market can drive up their value, especially when the clock is in good working condition with original parts.
Collectors often prioritize clocks with intricate mechanisms because they showcase the ingenuity and technological advancements of their time. The presence of a three-train mechanism, or a clock with additional complications like chiming or an alarm, indicates a higher level of mechanical achievement. These clocks are often seen as more valuable historical artifacts, and their complexity can make them the centerpiece of a collection.
On the flip side, clocks with more complex mechanisms can be harder and more expensive to repair or maintain, which may deter some buyers. A three-train movement has more moving parts that could potentially break down or require servicing, and specialized knowledge is often needed to repair them. However, collectors willing to invest in these repairs typically appreciate the value of the clock and understand that the effort is worth it.
Do Your Research and Meet the Seller In Person!
Before buying or selling a clock, check eBay listings, reputable auction houses, local buy-and-sell sites, antique shops, and online message boards. Prices can be volatile, and what may have sold for a high price years ago may be worth much less today. For example, some clocks that were once highly valued, are now relatively inexpensive due to oversupply.
Antique shops are potential places for a good buy
As a buyer, ask detailed questions and verify originality before making a purchase. Sellers should provide an honest and clear description of their clock, disclosing any replaced parts or modifications. Keep in mind that while the clock market may seem chaotic, high-end, sought-after clocks tend to retain their value over time.
Meeting the seller face to face is often the best approach. A personal meeting allows buyers to gauge the seller’s honesty and integrity, making them feel more secure in their purchase.
Seeing the clock in person allows the buyer to closely inspect its condition, functionality, and any potential issues that may not be apparent in photos. This firsthand assessment helps buyers make informed decisions about the clock’s value and condition. They can check for labels, trademarks, and other identifying features that may influence the clock’s value. Buyers can also evaluate the quality of craftsmanship and materials up close.
Face-to-face meetings provide a better opportunity for negotiation. Buyers can engage in real-time discussions, express their concerns, and potentially negotiate a fair price based on the clock’s condition and market value. In-person interactions often lead to more flexible negotiations than online communications.
Sellers who are passionate about their clocks can provide detailed information about the piece’s history, repairs, and provenance often enhancing the buying experience and adding value to the transaction.
Photos can be misleading, and details may be overlooked in written descriptions. Meeting the seller face to face reduces the risk of misrepresentation, as buyers can directly address any discrepancies they find during their inspection.
Meeting in person can eliminate the need for shipping, which can be costly and risky for fragile antique clocks. Buyers can transport the clock themselves, ensuring it arrives safely.
If you have any doubts or the answers you’re receiving from the seller seem uncertain, always—without exception—be prepared to walk away.
Now is a good time to buy or sell
Now is an excellent time to buy, as many bargains can be found with careful research. For sellers, patience and realistic expectations are key. Understanding the market, setting fair prices, and presenting items attractively will increase your chances of success. Whether buying or selling, doing your homework is essential to navigating this unpredictable landscape.
New owners of an antique or vintage clock might find it surprising that their recent purchase requires periodic maintenance. This realization often dawns upon them only when the clock stops, and they struggle to get it running again.
This Junghans wall clock, C.1899 is a daily runner
In this discussion, we explore regular clock maintenance, underscoring the importance of continuous inspection to ensure your clock enjoys a long and functional life.
Determining the ideal service interval of a running clock is a frequent topic of discussion among clock repairers, influenced by various factors that impact a clock’s lifespan. Factors include environment, age, frequency of use, manufacturers recommendations, complexity of the movement, user maintenance and cost of repairs.
Regular inspection
I conduct regular inspections of all clocks running continuously in my collection every 3-5 years, enabling me to pinpoint potential issues and remediate them if necessary.
Not all of my clocks are inspected on a regular basis. Among my collection of approximately 85 clocks, only a maximum of 27 clocks remain in continuous operation. Of the remaining ones, certain clocks may need specialized maintenance, are in various states of repair, some have fragile or rare parts, and others are reserved for special occasions.
Elisha Manross steeple clock from the 1830s
As an illustration of a clock that seldom runs, one of my clocks is a 30-hour time-and-strike Elisha Manross steeple clock dating back to the 1830s. This particular clock features brass mainsprings, making them irreplaceable if they were to break today.
Brass mainsprings
Clocks that occasionally stop signal a need for immediate attention. I look for any immediate issues that might have caused the stoppage otherwise I focus on identifying green or black residues around the pivots. Contaminants mixing with clock oil create an abrasive paste, damaging bushing holes and pivots and in time the wear will stop a clock. If a clock stops after running continuously for years it is more often than not a wear issue. Disassembling the movement is imperative, enabling a detailed assessment of wear and determining the extent of intervention.
When dealing with a non-functioning clock no matter what procedures you have taken to get it running, the first step involves a visual inspection to identify evident problems like broken or bent parts, as well as missing components. This leads to the next step which is called servicing. True clock servicing involves comprehensive disassembly, inspection, cleaning, addressing wear and damage issues, reassembly, and thorough testing.
Factors that affect wear
Several factors affect wear, with the local environment playing a pivotal role. Humidity and temperature fluctuations, especially in older homes or those with wood stoves, impact a clock’s performance. Dust and pet hair, infiltrating the movement, also accelerate wear.
Clock cases that are tightly sealed with access doors help alleviate these concerns, and a properly sealed clock will extend the intervals between servicing.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator runs continuously
Different types of clocks exhibit unique wear patterns. Spring-driven time and strike clocks often wear on strike side pivots more often than the time side due to the shock of the half-hour strike. Chiming clocks face additional challenges due to the complexity of the chime/strike sides, where dried oils and dirt cause friction, leading to eventual stops. Weight-driven clocks, especially if not correctly in beat or with twisted cables, may suffer premature stops and require thorough investigation.
A mechanical clock as a decoration
Many people appreciate the decorative allure of antique clocks and opt not to operate them, choosing instead to display them as decorative pieces. However, leaving a mechanical clock unused poses risks.
Time and the environment, rather than operation, cause the most damage. Unused clocks primarily suffer from the thickening of the oil over time and the eventual breakdown of that oil. On the other hand, dried-up oil provides no lubrication for the pivots and leads to accelerated wear. Excessive enlarging of the brass pivot holes by the steel pivots will eventually lead to depthing issues (depthing, which is the correct meshing of one gear in relation to the next is a topic beyond the scope of this article).
Parts left motionless often tend to fuse, and rust accumulates, particularly in humid environments. Although the majority of clocks possess brass plates that are resistant to rust, there is a significant portion of steel components in them that are susceptible to corrosion.
In addition, mainsprings frequently become stuck due to thickening oil, causing the spring to fuse in position.
Running the clock even occasionally such as once per month is essential, enhancing longevity.
Clock cases also need attention
While maintaining the clock movement in good condition is crucial, cleaning the antique clock case is also important for several reasons.
Firstly, a clean case enhances the overall appeal of the clock, showcasing its design and craftsmanship.
Secondly, regular cleaning prevents the buildup of dust, dirt, and grime.
Thirdly, cleaning the case helps preserve the wood or other materials, preventing cracking and blistering and ensuring its structural integrity. I apply Minwax furniture paste wax on certain surfaces to protect the finish and maintain its appearance.
A clean clock case showcases its design– Junghans Sydney mantel clockC.1913
Overall, cleaning the antique clock case ensures its longevity, functionality, and visual appeal, making it an essential aspect of proper clock maintenance.
Health check for clocks
In my controlled home environment, with stable temperature, low humidity, and no pets, I prioritize regular health checks for my clocks as a preventive measure. Yet, due to the controlled environment in my home, I can prolong service intervals to around 4-5 years.
Shorter periods are recommended for clocks in less controlled or fluctuating environments, ensuring timely maintenance and preserving the clock’s longevity. Utilizing an Excel spreadsheet, I meticulously record changes, service intervals, and issues for each clock in my collection.
My goal is to ensure every clock’s durability, preserving them for future generations, and potentially passing them (well, at least some) down to my children.
In this post I will acquaint the reader with temperature compensation and what it means for maintaining the accuracy of a mechanical clock.
Almost all materials expand noticeably with heat and contract when cooled.
Temperature compensation is a critical factor to consider when it comes to the maintenance and repair of antique mechanical clocks. Clocks are precision instruments that rely on a delicate balance of mechanical components to keep accurate time. Any changes in temperature can cause the metal components of the clock to expand or contract, leading to inaccuracies in timekeeping.
Pendulum with dissimilar metal rods
To combat these fluctuations, many antique clocks were designed with temperature compensation mechanisms. These mechanisms are intended to counteract the effects of temperature changes on the clock’s accuracy. One common method of temperature compensation is the use of a bi-metallic strip, which is a strip of two different metals that are bonded together. As the temperature changes, the metals expand and contract at different rates, causing the strip to bend and adjust the balance of the clock.
Wood was a commonly used material for antique clock pendulum rods because it has a low coefficient of thermal expansion, meaning it is less likely to expand or contract with changes in temperature, which is crucial for maintaining the accuracy of timekeeping in clocks. Wood is relatively lightweight and easy to work with, making it a practical choice for clockmakers.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2 with wood pendulum rod
However, not all antique clocks were designed with temperature compensation mechanisms.
Clocks that have no temperature compensation may need seasonal adjustments
For those that lack these features, it’s important to keep the clock in a stable environment with minimal temperature fluctuations. However seasonal changes in heat and humidity may require periodic adjustments. Exposure to extreme temperatures or rapid changes in temperature can cause damage to the clock’s components and negatively impact its accuracy.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator with wood pendulum
Temperature compensation is a critical factor to consider when it comes to antique mechanical clocks. While some clocks were designed with built-in temperature compensation mechanisms, others may require more careful maintenance and storage to ensure accurate timekeeping over time.
Having said the above not every pendulum design that appears to provide temperature compensation actually serves that purpose. In certain instances, pendulum rod designs may be purely decorative (such as the Mauthe wall clock below) and lack temperature compensation functionality altogether.
Mauthe wall clock circa 1895
If your clock is experiencing inaccuracies in timekeeping, there are various adjustments that can be made. However, if you lack the necessary expertise, it is advisable to consult a professional clock repairer. They can thoroughly examine the clock’s mechanisms, identify any problems, and make the necessary adjustments to ensure precise and accurate timekeeping.
One of my retirement gifts in 2016 was a 2-weight time and strike Gustav Becker wall clock. My wife had thoroughly searched eBay and picked what she determined to be the best gift for me considering a Gustav Becker wall clock had always been on my wish list. It was everything I had hoped for but the clock came with one hiccup and a pretty big one at that.
It was badly damaged in shipment. Finials snapped off, all glass was broken, weights were dented, trim pieces fell off, the brass dial bezel was bent, a bent gathering pallet and the movement was missing critical strike side rack and snail parts. I managed to obtain a few pieces from the seller which was not everything I required and also put in a damage claim with the postal service but received nothing from them.
The main case was largely untouched at least
It was a good learning experience that taught me that one should avoid shipping a clock unless the shipper knows exactly what they are doing.
Where to start? At the time I was not sure how to approach rebuilding the clock. Do I set it aside for a later project or just dive into the deep end and learn as I go?
The original movement from 1902 is missing strike-side parts
I decided to have a go at it. After gluing the parts back on, replacing the glass, sprucing up the case, and sourcing a new movement (the original 1902 movement was replaced with a 1917 movement made in the same Braunau factory) the clock was finally coming together and at the end of the three-month project, it taught me a few things about movement servicing, sourcing of parts and case repair.
My wife took a look at this clock the other day and suggested I write an update. She said that it still looked impressive years after. I put a lot of work into this clock and it appears to have paid off as it still looks great on my living room wall.
Honestly, an entire book could be devoted to the topic of dating clocks. Some time ago, I published an article titled “How to Date an Antique or Vintage Clock – Part I,” in which I used specific examples from my own collection.
I’d like to explore this topic further, and this post will discuss additional methods for dating an antique or vintage mechanical clock. While there is no one definitive method for dating an antique or vintage clock, there are often clear clues in some cases and more subtle hints in others that can help pinpoint when a clock was made.
Occasionally, the exact month and year are displayed somewhere on the case, and in other instances, the clock by way of serial numbers, date stamps on the movement, style of hands, spandrels, dial design, case design, and so on, establishes the date to within a certain period.
After 1896 foreign clocks (Europe, England) were mandated to have the country of origin on the case, usually on the dial. Any clock made after that date will have the country of origin.
Duration of manufacture
A bit of research into the history of a clockmaker can help you narrow down the timeframe for dating your clock. For instance, the E.N. Welch Clock Company, an American manufacturer, produced clocks until 1903, when it was acquired by the Sessions Clock Company, which continued making clocks until 1970. The E.N. Welch Clock Company made clocks for a 50-year period until its acquisition by Sessions in 1903.
By 1903 German-based clock manufacturer Junghans was the largest clock maker in the world and continued in its quest to bring more companies into the fold. Gustav Becker, founded in the 1860s, and Hamburg American Clock Company, founded in 1883 were absorbed by Junghans in the late 1920s. Although those companies were folded into Junghans in 1926 the Gustav Becker name lived on for another 9 years.
Gustav Becker regulator C.1907, Braunau factory
Clocks with Steel vs Brass platesvs Woodworks movements
Smaller shelf clocks with 1-day (30-hour) wooden movements were produced in fairly large quantities from around 1810 to 1845, after which most clockmakers changed over to brass movements. Wood dials were also popular during this period.
Daniel Pratt woodworks movement with dial removedC.1832-38
By 1860 iron weights were being replaced by springs as the power source, and smaller clocks, many of them 8-day, were becoming increasingly popular. Early American spring-driven clocks used brass springs (late 1830s) until steel became cost-effective.
This information is important for dating a clock because it highlights key transitions in clockmaking technology and design, which can help pinpoint the era in which a clock was made. For example, the use of wooden movements and wood dials can indicate a clock was produced between 1810 and 1845. The shift from iron weights to springs by 1860 helps us understand why spring-driven clocks became popular, which is crucial for narrowing the period of manufacture. Additionally, the switch from brass springs to steel in the early 1840s can provide a more precise date range for early spring-driven clocks.
Understanding these technological changes allows you to make more informed judgments about a clock’s age based on its features.
Brass mainsprings from a Manross steeple clock C.1837
During periods when brass was in short supply such as the World Wars (WWI and WWII), makers often made steel plate movements with brass bushing inserts. However, some companies such as Arthur Pequegnat used either steel plates or brass-plated steel plates throughout their operating years (1902 to 1941).
Steel plates on a Pequegnat time and strike clock
Other clock companies switched to steel as a cost-cutting measure when brass prices were high, not necessarily during wartime.
Screws and nails, chime rods, coiled gongs
In older clocks, nails, and screws were made of iron and hand-forged, with screw heads being slotted. Hand-forged nails can be found in clock cases dating from the earliest examples up to the mid-19th century, after which machined screws and nails started to replace them.
An ogee clock, like this example made by George H. Clark in 1865, was constructed with hand-forged nails.
George H Clark 30-hour Ogee shelf clock
Robertson and Phillips head screws were introduced in the first part of the twentieth century. Since the Robertson head was invented in 1906 and Phillips screw heads only began to be widely used in the 1930s screws of these types found in older antique clocks are later additions.
Since these screw types were introduced in the early 20th century, their use in a clock that dates from an earlier period suggests that the screws were likely replaced or added during a later restoration or repair. Recognizing these screws helps refine the clock’s dating and can provide insight into its history and any modifications it may have undergone.
The first rod gong, a single striking rod, dates back to patent designation DRGM 108469, granted to Johann Obergfell on December 23rd, 1899. The introduction of the rod gong, as opposed to earlier bell or strike systems, represents a key development in the evolution of mechanical clocks, especially in terms of sound quality and the technology used.
Understanding when this innovation occurred can help date a clock more accurately, particularly those with rod gongs, as it indicates they were likely made after 1899. Rod gongs are typically made from a copper or nickel alloy and are press-fitted into a block.
Thick coiled gong
There are two types of coils: the thick coils, which spiral only a few times and produce a deep, rich tone, and the thinner coils, which spiral many times and often have a higher-pitched, tin-like sound. Thick coils were used well before the mid-1800s. These coils are typically mounted onto a fitting, which is then attached to an iron block. Smaller, thicker coils became more common towards the end of the 19th century.
On the American front, thin wire coils were very common. Some examples had the coil mounted to a dome-shaped base which was said to improve the tone considerately.
Commemorative plaques
Commemorative plaques which display dates are often a good indicator of the age of a clock. However, the clock may have been on a seller’s shelf for years before the date on the plaque. This nevertheless places the clock within a certain range of dates. This photo shows a plaque on a HAC (Hamburg American Clock Co.) time and strike shelf clock.
HAC shelf clock with the date 1926 on a plaque
Type of escapement
Recoil (anchor), half deadbeat, Graham deadbeat, pinwheel, Brocot types are found in older antique clocks while, hairspring, floating balance, lever type escapements are found in newer vintage (less than 100 years old) clocks.
For example, floating balance movementsbegan appearing in mechanical clocks in the early 1950s. The floating balance will tolerate being out of level, unlike pendulum clocks which must be on a level surface, an attractive marketing feature.
This is important because the type of escapement mechanism used in a clock can provide key insights into its age and technological development. Older clocks with recoil (anchor), half deadbeat, Graham deadbeat, pinwheel, or Brocot escapements reflect the horological practices of earlier periods, while newer clocks featuring hairspring, floating balance, or lever type escapements indicate a more modern design, typically found in clocks less than 70 years old.
For example, the introduction of the floating balance in the 1950s was a signifcant advance because it allows for clocks that are less sensitive to being off-level, a feature that made them more convenient for consumers. Recognizing these mechanisms helps in accurately dating a clock and understanding the technological shifts over time.
floating balance escapementC. 1950
Style of case
The style of the case, such as ogee, box clock, steeple, cottage, or gingerbread, can help date the clock to a specific period.
The style of a clock case can offer valuable clues about its age, as different case styles were popular during specific periods in history. Here’s a breakdown of some common clock case styles and their associated timeframes:
Ogee Clocks: These clocks, named for the distinctive curved, “S”-shaped design of their cases, were popular from the early 19th century, especially between 1825 and 1850 but continued to be made into the 1880s. They typically have a simple, symmetrical shape, often with a painted or paper dial, and were mostly made with wooden movements in the early years.
Box Clocks: This style features a simple, rectangular or square case, often with a hinged door or glass front. Box clocks were common in the early to mid-19th century (1920s to 1940s), with their plain, functional design making them relatively inexpensive to produce.
Steeple Clocks: Steeple clocks are characterized by their pointed, “steeple” shape at the top of the case. This design became particularly popular from the 1840s through the 1870s. Steeple clocks were typically more decorative and were often used in homes and churches, with some having more ornate carvings or decorative elements.
Cottage Clocks: Cottage clocks, with their simple and rustic designs, emerged in the mid-19th century, around the 1840s and 1850s. Often smaller in size, these inexpensive clocks were popular in rural homes. They are sometimes characterized by a more casual, handcrafted appearance, with wooden cases and floral or geometric motifs.
Gingerbread Clocks: This style, which features intricate carvings and decorative elements like scalloped edges, ornate moldings, and small, detailed pieces, gained popularity in the mid- to late-19th century (around 1860 to 1880). Gingerbread clocks are often associated with the Victorian era and were typically mass-produced.
The case style is a strong indicator of the clock’s approximate age because clockmakers and manufacturers often adapted their designs to reflect contemporary tastes. By identifying the specific features of a clock’s case—such as the materials used, shape, and any distinctive decorative elements—you can narrow down the period in which it was made, which can then aid in dating the clock more precisely.
E Ingraham Huron C.1878
Knowing the period when a case was made provides a reliable indicator of the clock’s age. Although there are earlier patent dates stamped on the movement of this E. Ingraham Huron time and strike 8-day shelf clock, this style of case was made for only 2 years, 1878 to 1880.
Date stamps on movements or cases& searchable databases
Some makers stamp date their movements or display the date elsewhere on the clock case. The Gilbert Clock Company often date-stamped their movements. Sessions put dates on the door labels.
Some makers such as Junghans stamp a date code on their movements. For example, B19 stamped on the back plate of a Junghans movement refers to a movement made in the latter half of 1919.
Serial numbers stamped on movements can be compared to a database to determine the exact year the clock was made. The Ridgeway clock company used 4-digit codes. For example, serial number 4981 refers to a Ridgeway clock made in 1981.
Gustav Becker clocks were made in both Silesia and Braunau factories, both of which produced clocks but each had a unique serial number convention. The serial number on a Gustav Becker clock will give the exact year of production assuming you know where it was made, Silesia or Braunau.
An online databases such as ClockHistory.com provides invaluable information on companies and models made by them, the years the clock company was in business, and how long the company was in operation.
Searchable databases like Mikrolisk, the horological trademark index help date a clock by comparing a trademark. Some companies revise or restyle their trademarks over the years allowing one to date a clock within a certain period.
At Antique-horology.org keywords or text can be used to search trademarks and identify years they were used.
Scottish tall case clock C.1848
The date 1848 is attributed to the clock above. I arrived at this date because it was made by William McLachlan of Newton Stewart, Scotland. According to an English clock database, Mr. McLachlan was a clock assembler and ran a clock-making business in Newton Stewart until his death in 1848. While the clock could have been assembled as early as 10 years prior, 1848 serves as a conservative estimate.
Other miscellaneous indicators
Plywood began to be used in clock cases starting in 1905. One of the clocks in my collection, a Junghans bracket clock, made around 1913, features a plywood back access door.
Seth Thomas made clocks in marble cases for a short time, from 1887 to about 1895. They also made clocks in iron cases finished in black enamel, from 1892 to about 1895.
Adamantine clocks were most popular through to 1915. Seth Thomas is best known for their “Adamantine” black mantel clocks, which were made starting in 1882. Adamantine is a celluloid veneer, glued to the wood case. Adamantine veneer was made in black and white, and in coloured patterns such as wood grain, onyx, and marble.
Seth ThomasAdamantine clock circa 1911
Final thoughts
My goal for this two-part article was to provide a broad, generalized overview. Each of the sub-topics mentioned above could be explored in much greater detail, and I hope this serves as a useful reference for some of you. I welcome any corrections to the dates, and if there’s anything I’ve missed or other information that should have been included, please feel free to leave a comment.
As I’ve outlined, there are many ways to date a clock—some methods are quite obvious, while others are more subtle and require a bit of research to pinpoint.
For some collectors and clock fans, dating a clock is crucial, as it adds historical context and value to the piece. For others, however, it may not be as important, especially if the clock serves primarily as a decorative item rather than a functional or collectible piece. In such cases, the aesthetic appeal might take precedence over its exact age.
Clock collectors usually pride themselves in having at least one Gustav Becker (GB) clock in their collection. I have just one but I am always on the lookout for another.
Gustav Becker wall clock
Becker clocks are not difficult to identify and date. Along with a maker’s stamp, serial numbers on the clock movements identify the year of manufacture. This clock was made in 1902 however, the original 1902 Braunau movement had too many missing parts and was replaced. It now has a “newer” Polish sourced Braunau movement from 1917.
It has taken me 6 years to assemble my collection of antique and vintage clocks. Although I have many clocks, wall clocks are my particular favorites. Check out my collection of antique and vintage wall clocks in this YouTube video I made in January 2019.
An antique clock stopping unexpectedly can be frustrating, especially if it has been running smoothly for years. However, a stopped clock doesn’t always signal a major problem. In many cases, the issue can be resolved with a little troubleshooting and basic maintenance. Whether it’s a cherished family heirloom or a recent addition to your collection, understanding the possible reasons behind its stoppage can help you decide on the best course of action to bring it back to life.
Perhaps you’ve recently acquired a mechanical clock—whether inherited, gifted, purchased at an antique store, bought online, or one you’ve had for a while—and, for no clear reason, it has stopped working.
Categories of Clocks
There are four general categories of clock movements; quartz, electro-mechanical, electric, and mechanical. This post focuses on mechanical clocks, whether antique or vintage and if your mechanical clock has stopped, I may be able to help you get it working again.
Running Time
It may surprise some that mechanical clocks require regular winding. Eight-day clocks need to be wound once a week, while 30-hour clocks require daily winding. 31-day clocks only need winding once a month, and 400-day clocks, also known as anniversary clocks, are wound once a year. Additionally, many German and a small number of American clocks run for 14 days before needing a wind.
Kundo Standard 400-day clock winds with a key once per year
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, 14-day time-only clock
Winding a Clock Movement
What does winding a clock actually mean? It means providing enough power to a mechanism that will allow it to run for its designed cycle.
For example for clocks with mainsprings, winding a mainspring implies turning the key until the clock winds no further. Time and strike clocks will have two winding arbours, chiming clocks generally have 3 winding arbours.
Clocks with weights have one, two, or three winding points. Absent the odd exception, a time-only clock will have one winding point, a time-and-strike clock will have two, and a chiming clock will have three. If there are no winding holes on the clock face, it is a weight-driven clock and the weights must be pulled up by hand.
In the case of clocks with mainsprings that provide the motive power for the time, strike, and chimes, wind each arbour until resistance is met and you cannot wind any further.
One key will fit all the arbours except the regulator arbour (on clocks that have this feature) which requires a smaller key. Clocks that have a regulator arbour originally came with a double-ended key; the smaller key is for the regulator.
Clocks generally wind clockwise but it is also common to find winding arbours that must be wound counterclockwise.
Over-winding
The idea of overwinding a clock is a myth. If a clock stops after being fully wound, it typically indicates that dirt, old oil, or grime on the mainspring has caused it to seize. Even if the mainspring, once unseized, has enough power, it still needs cleaning, which requires disassembling the movement and checking for other potential issues.
A clock in good working condition should complete its full cycle, whether that’s 30 hours, 8 days, 14 days, 31 days, or any other duration.
Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows). The arbour over the 6 requires a smaller key to regulate the clock
Why Has My Clock Stopped
First and foremost, all clocks require motive power. Winding a clock stores potential energy in the mainspring, which is gradually released over a designed period of time. This energy is regulated by the escapement, a mechanism that controls the release of the energy in small, consistent increments, ensuring the clock keeps accurate time. Weights resting on the bottom of the baseboard will stop a clock and a completely unwound spring-driven clock will not run.
Is the clock in beat? Put your clock on a level surface. Listen to the tick and the tock of your clock. Try to minimize the sounds in the room you are in so that you can listen closely to its rhythm. It is in beat when its ticks and tocks are even….tick…tock…tick…tock…, and is out of beat when they are uneven, either, tick….. tock or tock tick…… Put another way, there must be an equal amount of time between the ticks and the tocks. When a clock is out of beat, it will not run, or it will run for a short time and stop. A clock’s beat must be regular to work properly.
Is the clock level? There are two ways to put a clock in beat. The first is to tilt the clock sideways, one way or the other, and listen for the beat to even out. When the beat is even, prop the clock to stay tilted that way. If it is a wall clock move the bottom section from side to side till you hear a steady beat. Now it will run in beat but it will obviously not look good.
Adjusting the crutch Adjust the crutch to one side or the other until the beat is even. The crutch is the rod that extends down from the pallets which rock back and forth on the escape wheel. The pendulum rod passes through either a loop (called a crutch loop) or a forked foot at the end of the crutch as indicated in the photo below. Incidentally, that rod needs to be in the middle of the crutch loop and can’t be tight inside the loop nor too loose. The crutch is attached to the pendulum leader which is then attached to a post with a suspension spring. Other mantel clocks require similar adjustment to the crutch and instructions may be provided on a label or a pamphlet that came with the clock. A clock with a balance wheel or lever-type escapement rather than a pendulum will operate on a non-level surface.
American made time and strike
Have repairs been done recently? Unless you had a friend fix your clock most reputable clock-makers will offer a warranty, typically 6 months to a year. If your clock stops within that time frame, contact the clock-repairer who may offer a few suggestions in the form of adjustments, over the phone before taking it back to the shop. If it still does not work have that person take a look at the clock.
Do you have the correct pendulum? Other than the winding key, it seems to be the item that gets lost the most. If lost or misplaced, ensure you buy a pendulum that is correct for your clock. One too light may mean that it does not run at all, too heavy and the centre of gravity is lowered and the clock might run too slowly. Clock suppliers such asPerrin or Timesavers will have the correct pendulum for your clock.
Pendulum bob with an adjuster for a French time and strike
Something is broken? If there is no resistance when turning the winding key, the mainspring has broken or a click has let go. If the mainspring winds but releases in your hand, the most common cause is a broken or worn click spring. This is a repair that requires removing the movement from its case, taking it apart, and replacing the worn or damaged part. If you are skilled with that kind of repair, go ahead and fix it, if not, a specialist is required.
A loud BANG when you turn the key indicates the mainspring has broken or let go. It may not be as simple as replacing the mainspring. If the mainspring breaks it might have taken out other parts with it such as pinions and gear cogs. This is called collateral damage. An inspection and a full servicing of the movement is the only solution. Occasionally a broken mainspring is the only problem but the broken spring must come out of the barrel. Some movement designs allow the barrel to be removed without disassembling the mechanism. Whether the barrel is removable or not, a correct mainspring must be sourced to replace it and installed in the barrel which is a job for an expert.
The mainspring inside the barrel may also have become unhooked. This could occur if the clock was wound backward or if the hooked end of the mainspring is split or broken. To address this, the clock will need to be disassembled, the spring barrel opened, and the cause of the unhooking identified. In some cases, a replacement mainspring may be necessary.
For time and strike clocks with open mainsprings, the break may be on one mainspring or both. The clock must be completely disassembled, mainsprings replaced, the movement inspected for other issues, reassembled, and tested.
Sessions click, brass spring, and ratchet
Why does my weight-driven clock stop? Ensure that the weights are in their correct location. If it is a new acquisition of a grandfather clock the three weights have a specific location. Look underneath the weight shells for marks indicating their location “L”, left side, “C”, center and “R”, right side. If there are no markings, use a scale to determine the one that is the lightest weight and put that on the left side.
Ridgway grandfather clock
When bringing up the weights to the top of the clock be careful that they are not run past their stops. You should have a full view of the weights on a weight-driven clock once wound.
Antique Ogee clocks and other weight-driven shelf clocks often lack their original weights, as these have been lost or misplaced over time. Eight-day clocks typically have heavier 8 or 9 lb weights while 30-hour clocks have lighter 2 1/2 lb or 3 lb weights. Incorrect weights for these clocks will cause them to stop.
Is the weight cord or the brass cable binding in any way? The cord or cable should be just long enough to accommodate the weights. A cord or cable that is too long will bind while being wound and stop the clock.
Gustav Becker two-weight wall clock requires a winding crank
Some clocks like weight-driven Vienna Regulators can be adjusted by a transverse regulating screw assembly where the crutch inserts into a slot in the pendulum. Turning a screw in one direction or the other will correct the beat.
Final thoughts
In conclusion, if you encounter a unique issue not addressed here, it’s advisable to consult a professional clock repairer or someone with expertise in mechanical clock repairs. Working with mechanical clocks carries a certain level of risk, as the power stored in the mainsprings can cause injury if not handled carefully. On the other hand, weight-driven clocks generally present less risk.
Although this article may not cover every possible scenario, I hope it has provided you with a clearer understanding of your clock’s issue and how to approach its resolution.
My Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator wall clock is 51 inches in length. It is a 2-weight regulator that runs on an eight day cycle. In order to bring the weights up I must open the access door and insert the winding crank into the arbours on the clock face. I then raise the weights to their highest safe level. During the process of opening the access door and winding the clock there is always the risk of moving the clock, disrupting the level thus creating a condition where it is out-of-beat. In short the stabilizers, located on each side, keep the case from shifting while winding the clock.
Clock-makers provided stabilizers on many clocks so that they would not move during regular winding or remain stable in the event of vibration or shock (accidentally bumping into it).
The stabilizer is usually about an inch in length, has a knurled brass knob on one end and is mounted on a brass or steel plate which is then fixed to the back of the clock case by means of wood screws.
Brass stabilizer
This is the right stabilizer on my Gustav Becker.
Right stabilizer
Junghans Crispi wall clock showing one of the stabilizers
If you find two small holes on either side of the back and near the bottom of the case of a wall clock you can bet that you are missing the wall stabilizers. You can order them from any clock supply house.
They not only complete the look of a wall clock but are functional as well. A very simple solution to a potentially frustrating problem.
Clocks have been more than just timekeepers throughout history; they are reflections of art, culture, and technological innovation. Whether for practical use or decorative appeal, clock styles have evolved to match the tastes, craftsmanship, and technologies of their times. Here’s a look at some of the most iconic and varied clock styles.
The clock is an instrument designed to keep and indicate time. It is one of the oldest human inventions. The clock has evolved through the ages from sundials in ancient times to early tower clocks of the 14th century weight-driven clocks and finally spring-driven clocks from the 1840s to the 1970s.
The world of mechanical clocks encompasses a wide variety of styles, and distinguishing between them can often be confusing—such as understanding the difference between a shelf clock and a mantel clock. In this article, I’ll navigate through these terms and highlight the most common styles or types, using examples from my own clock collection to illustrate them.
Mantel Clock
Many auction sites and even professional websites use the word mantle. The correct terminology is “mantel”. A mantle is a shawl or coat worn by women, an important role passed on from one person to another or the earth’s crust. A mantel is the top framing of a fireplace or a shelf above a fireplace opening.
A mantel clock is designed to fit on top of a fireplace or shelf. A mantel clock can be time only, time and strike, or a chiming clock. Generally, if there are 2 winding arbours it is a time and strike clock, if the clock has 3 winding arbours is it a chiming clock that is, it will play a tune on the quarter hours, the most common being the Westminster chime.
Mantel clocks might also be referred to as shelf clocks or buffet clocks.
Kitchen Clock
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock
Kitchen clocks are often referred to as gingerbread clocks or parlour clocks. At times, it can be difficult to differentiate between a kitchen clock and a parlour clock. Gingerbread clocks are distinctive because their designs are typically created by steam-pressing the wooden front face. However, some clocks, like the one above, are made using a powered cutting saw but are still classified as kitchen clocks. Additionally, some of these clocks included alarm mechanisms. The terms gingerbread, kitchen, and parlour are often used interchangeably.
Another type of kitchen clock is shown below. This is an 8-day time-only delft wall clock made by Forestville.
Delft Clock from ForestvilleE. N. Welch Whittier model
A parlour clock is generally considered more ornate than a kitchen clock, although it may still be referred to as a kitchen clock. It is placed in front hallways, entryways, and so on. The designs are always cut and there may be finials, a mercury-filled pendulum or very ornate design, garish trim pieces, and a decorative tablet.
Vienna Regulator
Gustav Becker two-weight Vienna regulator
There are many styles but most are of the single-weight or two-weight variety. The definition of a Vienna regulator is always open to debate but the consensus among collectors is that they are weight-driven, made in Austria/Germany, ornate in design, have porcelain dials, decorative crowns, large pendulums, and finials on the top and bottom.
The broad definition of Vienna Regulator includes those that are spring-driven. Though not defined as “regulators” it is acceptable among collectors to refer to them as a Vienna style.
Cottage Clock
Canada Clock Co Hamilton Cottage Extra
Sometimes called a mantel clock or a shelf clock, they are usually diminutive in size to occupy a smaller space. They are found in bedrooms and kitchens and are sturdily built since they are often designed to be portable. They come in time only, time and strike, or may have an alarm function.
Carriage Clock
French Carriage Clock
Carriage clocks are portable and were very popular around the turn of the 20th century. French-made carriage clocks are more collectible and fetch generally higher prices although American ones can be quite desirable. Carriage clocks are designed to be portable and are time-only but some are time and strike (with a repeater function) while others may have an alarm function.
Crystal Regulator
Ansonia Crystal Regulator
Crystal Regulator clocks are identified by a brass case with 4 crystals or glass panels. Porcelain dials, Roman or Arabic numerals, ornate in design but sometimes quite garish. Most are 10-12 inches in height though some are smaller. Makers are American and French though French crystal regulators are called four-glass clocks and tend to have higher value. Distinctive by their mercury or faux mercury pendulums. Some have visible Brocot escapements and the time and strike movements are always visible.
Cuckoo Clock
Cuckoo clock
These clocks are pendulum-regulated and make an automated sound like a cuckoo when it strikes the hours. Some can be very intricate with several animated characters. Desirable ones are antiques from the Black Forest region of Germany. Modern ones are generally frustrating to repair, cheaply built, and are poor timekeepers.
Lantern Clock
Converted lantern clock
A lantern clock is a type of antique weight-driven wall clock, shaped like a lantern. They were the first type of clock widely used in private homes. They probably originated before 1500 but only became common after 1600 and in Britain, around 1620. They became obsolete in the 19th century. The one pictured above has been converted into a fusee movement.
Alarm Clock
Baby Ben alarm clock with seconds hand
Alarm clocks are wound once per day and designed to do two things, wake you and display the time. They are cheap, and are average timekeepers but have long-lasting and reliable movements.
Desk Clock
Kienzle World Time clock
These sat on fancy office desks or credenzas in office locations. They are either time-only or time-and-strike. Most were time-only to minimize distractions in the office environment. Some are very attractive and have unique designs and are more decorative than utilitarian. This one above is called a World Time Clock by Kienzle.
Wall Clock
German Mauthe Box clock
A wall clock is broadly defined as any clock designed to be hung on a wall, making it a practical and visible timekeeping solution. Wall clocks come in various styles, from simple and functional designs to highly decorative pieces. This one by Mauthe is often described as a German “box” clock which became popular after the First World War and made into the 1940s.
Schoolhouse Clock
Ansonia schoolhouse clock
They are known as schoolhouse clocks because they hung in many schoolrooms in North America. Usually distinctive by their octagon shape and short or long drop feature with a glass door displaying a swinging pendulum. Many thousands were made; they had cheap mass-produced softwood cases and robust movements. Most were time-only though some were time and strike and others even included a calendar function.
When they were marketed years ago they were not called “schoolhouse clocks” but rather, clocks made for the schoolroom.
Novelty Clock
Chairman Mao Zetong waving as the clock ticks
These clocks are designed for the tourist trade with interesting features. In the case of the above clock, a smiling Mao Zedong has his little red book in hand and is waving “to the masses” as the clock ticks.
Ogee Clock
Waterbury OG clock
It is so-called because of the curved molded wood case. It might also be referred to as an OG clock. The design originated in the United States in the 1830s, distinguished by a case (usually pine) the front outer edges of which are curved into an S-shape (Ogee). This shape is formed by the union of a convex and a concave line. A mass-produced variant of the shelf clock, the Ogee clock typically stands about 30 inches (75 cm) high and is usually weight-driven. The movements were generally made of brass (earlier ones were made of wood) and ran for 30 hours or eight days. This is a 30-hour weight-driven version from the 1870s.
Tall Case Clock
Ridgeway Hamilton Country, Westminster chime
Tall case clocks are known by various names depending on the region. They are referred to as tall-case clocks in American terminology, long-case clocks in British terminology, hall clocks in Canada, and sometimes as floor clocks. However, the most commonly used term is “grandfather clock.”
They are usually weight-driven, with the weights on chains or cables, and are distinctive by their obvious height. They are always 6 feet or over but can be as high as 8 feet high (1.8 to 2.4 meters). They often feature elaborately carved ornamentation on the hood (or bonnet), the frames, the throat, and the dial or clock face. Older ones have 30-hour movements but all modern grandfather clocks run on an 8-day cycle.
Smaller clocks are called grandmother and granddaughter clocks. They are under 6 feet.
Anniversary Clock
Kundo standard size 400-day clock
These clocks are also called torsion clocks or 400-day clocks. 400-day clocks are torsion driven having a long suspension spring to which a weight oscillates back and forth. Typically these clocks operate at 8 beats per minute and run for long cycles on a single wind, up to 400 days. These clocks were popular as wedding gifts or gifts to mark special occasions. They are relatively simple to repair but can be finicky to set up. The newer quartz clocks are very accurate but do not replace the charm and curiosity of the older mechanical ones.
Some might call them purely decorative.
Tower Clock
Tower clock in Holguin, Cuba
In the early 14th century large mechanical clocks began to appear in the towers of Italian cities. There is no record of any working models preceding these public clocks that were weight-driven and regulated by verge-and-foliot escapements. They are referred to as Turret clocks in the UK.
In conclusion, while there are sub-categories for some of the clocks described above, this overview provides a general understanding of the commonly used terms. Having this knowledge can be especially helpful when shopping for a special gift or identifying the style of clock you may have in your possession.
We were making our way to Missouri after beginning our journey in Maine in early May (2017). We only had one very important stop along the way because for the past 5 years I have always wanted to see the NAWCC clock museum in Columbia, Pennsylvania. Ever since I seriously wrapped my head around clock collecting and repair my dream was to visit this museum. Getting there was no problem but Interstate traffic is truly a disaster! Unfortunately, we budgeted too little time for a thorough tour in the hour and a half we had but we saw as much as we could in that short time.
Waiting in a hot parking lot for the museum to open was not much fun. Couldn’t you just open the front doors a little earlier than 10:00am? To kill time we walked around the town of Columbia. It might be neat and tidy place and one of the “top twenty small towns to visit in America”, so the sign says, but like all small towns in America the decline is evident in the number of vacant storefronts and absence of activity in the streets.
Sign in Columbia Penn.
We finally got into the museum. We (my wife and I) were the first in and being a NAWCC member my wife and I got in free. During our time there we saw only one other couple. So, not a terribly busy time but there are likely peak periods in the summer.
I was wondering how I would describe my visit to the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors Museum in Columbia Pennsylvania on that day in May. It was wonderful and more than I had imagined. There is simply not enough time to see everything and take it all in. The museum is very well laid out and there are displays to please everyone.
Vienna Regulator with Grande Sonnerie movement
For me the highlight has to be Engels Monument Clock (see Youtube video below). There was only ourselves and one other couple at the time so we were happy that the staff were able to put on a real show for us. The staffer walked us through the history of the clock and followed with a fascinating demonstration. AS he did so I imagined what it must have like to attend a local fair and see this wonderful clock in action. The clock was exhibited around the country for 74 years and last displayed in 1951 at the Ohio State Fall.
There is an emphasis on American clocks as you would expect but there are excellent examples of French, German, English and Japanese clocks. There is a broad selection of tall case clocks all the way back to the 1700s The history of time was very interesting as are the interactive displays which I am sure would please any children visiting the museum.
In a later article I will post more photos.
Whether you are an avid collector or merely have a casual interest in clocks this is great place to visit.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator Braunau factory circa 1902
It has been one year since my wife presented me with a Vienna Regulator wall clock as a retirement gift. I was in heaven! I always wanted a Gustav Becker clock. I thought it was the holy grail of clocks. As I delve more deeply into this hobby and have the benefit of a greater knowledge of the world of clocks this past year I am learning that there were other more desirable makers of that period (1850s to 1900) but I have my Gustav Becker and I have no regrets.
It has been an interesting time and one of the most significant horological experiences for me in the past year. This clock has taught me a lot.
The hands may look nice but they are incorrect for the period
This was a project clock and my first experience with a non-working clock that bought with it a number of not insurmountable issues. The side and front glass panels may look original but they are replacements after the glass broke during shipping. I brought it to a local glass shop and they installed the glass. I should have bought a old window with the wavy glass to use as a replacement as one reader suggested. I just did not think of it at the time.
The original movement was missing vital strike side parts
The original movement was missing vital strike side parts. Fighting with the seller who misrepresented the condition of the movement got me nowhere. I had to find a replacement movement and it had to be from Gustav Becker’s Braunau factory. Finally, I located a donor movement from Poland. The serial number on the Poland movement told me that it was 16 years newer. Some minor details differentiated the older and newer movement but it was exactly what I was looking for. It was a perfect fit for the case and correct for the pendulum length.
To the casual observer it is a beautiful wall clock befitting the grand period of German clock-making a century ago
What have I learned this past year? I put more than three hundred dollars of repairs into this clock above and beyond the original cost, much more money than the clock is worth. Don’t even get me started on import duties and shipping from the US. I am still riled about that. I am extremely reluctant to make any future clock purchases that require shipping by mail/courier. Others have had positive experiences with shipped clocks – I did not. I find it too much of a gamble. I prefer to buy my clocks in person! Though I won’t go into further detail, this was not a positive buying experience and after a year I am still fighting for compensation from the seller.
Original GB movement with parts missing
How does it look on the wall? A trained eye will see the minor incongruities. To the casual observer it is a beautiful wall clock befitting the grand period of German clock-making a century ago.
This article will explore the notion that a Vienna Regulator clock is not a true regulator. I realize that any discussion of regulator clocks produces a wide variety of conflicting opinions, nevertheless, here is my take subject of the Vienna Regulator and why it is not a true regulator.
The word “regulator” is loosely defined but according to this definition it is a master clock, usually of great accuracy, against which other clocks are checked. Respected collectors like Derek Roberts tend to stay away from defining a regulator clock and instead refer to them as precision pendulum clocks. In this article I will present three examples for the reader to consider.
Every clock that has the word regulator on it is not a regulator
Every clock that has the word regulator on it is not a regulator. Think about it. Why would a clock manufacturer put the word “regulator ” on a clock? It is simply a marketing ploy. The term “regulator” is one that connotes accuracy but in the frantic world of clock marketing it is a word that sells plenty of clocks.
If it was expressly designed as a precision pendulum clock it can be called a regulator
Definition of a regulator
It is not difficult to define a “regulator” by its mechanical characteristics. Regulator clocks were invented in the late 18th century as a quest for greater timekeeping accuracy. If the clock was designed as a precision pendulum clock it can be called a regulator. The principle features of a regulator clock are:
Quality weight driven device,
With maintaining power,
A heavy pendulum (not necessarily mercury),
Generally eight-day movement, though some are more than 8 days,
Has some form of temperature control compensation,
Has a seconds dial,
Is 60 beats per minute,
Has one gear train
Features a deadbeat or pinwheel escapement and
Is expressly engineered to keep accurate time.
Complicated features like calendars and strike trains are omitted in the quest for accuracy. Regulators were (are) capable of extreme accuracy for a mechanical clock.
Does the addition of a strike train take a clock out of the regulator category? In theory, yes. The strike train takes some of the accuracy out of the clock, as the time train produces more friction when lifting the strike levers. If we accept the definition of a regulator as an extremely accurate clock to be used as a time standard, you will not find a strike train on these clocks.
Here are three examples
Example number 1. Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1, A Handsome Clock, fitted with a Movement which is un-excelled”, Beautiful Finish on both Movement and Case, (Arthur Pequegnat advertisement)
The Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1 clock is often compared to the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 as a precision regulator. Many Regulator #1 clocks found their way into offices and rail stations all across Canada. The Regulator #1 is the best timekeeper made by The Pequegnat Clock Company of Kitchener Ontario (Canada). The company states this in it’s advertising: “A Handsome Clock, fitted with a Movement which is un-excelled“, Beautiful Finish on both Movement and Case” and “The Finest Office Clock Made”! They are weight driven, time-only, at 80 beats per minute, had a deadbeat escapement, with heavy pendulum, eight day movement with a brass weight hung on an iron bracket, maintaining power, a seconds dial and were designed to keep accurate time. It was a reasonably accurate clock used as a time standard.
However, some would argue that at 80 beats per minute it would not be considered a true regulator.
Is this Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1 a regulator?
Example number 2. Mauthe “Horse Crown” time and strike spring driven wall clock.
The clock you see in the photo below is typically advertised on online for-sale sites as a “Vienna Regulator”. It is an attractively designed 1890s spring driven, time and strike clock made by Frederick Mauthe. Those individuals who sell these clocks have no hesitation in calling them Regulators. Let’s apply the definition above.
Is this a precision regulator?
A spring driven movement disqualifies it immediately.
Is it not capable of extreme accuracy.
It is 116 beats per minute
Was it conceived and designed as a precision clock? No!
Is this Mauthe horse crown wall clock a Vienna Regulator?
Example number 3. Miniature one-weight Vienna Regulator
This is an Austro-Hungarian era time-only weight driven clock made in the early 1870s. Many would accept this as a Vienna Regulator and would have no hesitation advertising it as such. It has a deadbeat escapement, it has one weight, is a time-only movement, has a heavy pendulum, with an eight day running time and has maintaining power.
Is this one-weight miniature Vienna wall clock a regulator?
Let’s apply the definition above.
Is this a regulator? No!
There is no seconds dial, and, is
80 beats per minute
Is it capable of extreme accuracy. No!
Was it specifically designed as a precision clock? No!
Granted, it is capable of some accuracy but it is not a reference timepiece. However, there is little doubt that some post office and rail clocks in the Vienna style such as this Wilhelm Bauer post office wall clock (below) were considered “regulators” in their day when common folk set their watches and clocks by them.
Is this Wilhelm Bauer post office clock a regulator?
The Vienna Regulator clock and its characteristics
The Vienna Regulator is a particular style of clock made in Germania or the Austrian empire. They are characterized by finely crafted (ornate at times) cases with accurate movements. While they were capable of keeping good time, they were not designed as a precision instrument and were not capable of extreme accuracy. They have some but not all the characteristics of a regulator but they are not a true regulator. While the Vienna Regulator may not be true regulator it reflected not only the style and craftsmanship of the period they were made but the quest for accuracy. No one can argue that the best workmanship and attention to detail were put into the many clocks that were produced during what some might call the pinnacle of clock design and engineering.
As much as they are called regulators the three examples presented above are not true regulators. Regulators were (are) capable of extreme accuracy for a mechanical clock and nothing I have in my collection remotely qualifies as a regulator.
However, in the world of clock collecting and repair it is perfectly acceptable to continue referring to them as regulators since they are generally accepted as such. The word regulator has become part of the lexicon of collectors even if they do not strictly fall within the definition of a true regulator clock.
The world is changing and sadly, we are living in an increasingly throw-away society. We are taught at an early age that not many things are meant to last and using a throw-away product “guarantees” that the new product will function much better, but does it? I read a news article recently that Norway plans to introduce lower taxes on items that have been renewed or refurbished encouraging its citizens to reuse rather than dispose. Many would consider it a small but important step. It prompted me to write this article.
Here are 9 reasons why you should buy a mechanical clock.
1) Great for the environment. Clocks do not depend on electricity. We all agree that cutting your carbon footprint is always a good thing. Yes, you might think that a quartz clock is great for the environment since it lasts a long time and is both dependable and reliable when the power goes out but what happens when that battery fails. Where does that battery go? The landfill site, of course! Think about it, every part of mechanical clock is fully recyclable, the wood, the metal and the glass.
2) Prompts you to reconsider our disposable society: We are living in an increasingly disposable society. Collecting antique clocks may cause you to think about how you view other things in life, your place as a consumer in our society and how you can do your little bit to further the cause of preserving our environment. In this age of excessive over consumption it is refreshing that some things like a clock can be re-used, repaired and renewed.
One-weight Vienna miniature wall clock, unmarked, circa 1870
3) Great in a power outage; During power outages your mechanical clock will keep on ticking. And tick it will as long as you wind it regularly. And during that power failure you will also notice that the only thing you will hear will be the sound of your ticking clock above the eerie silence of the house.
4) Exercises the brain; Your curiosity about a particular clock might prompt you to research it’s history, or the era that the clock was made. Or, curiosity has led you to maintaining your own clocks. No one can argue that expanding your knowledge of mechanical things, learning new skill-sets, exploring new areas of interest, and learning something from the past is great for healthy brain development.
Learning to bush a clock plate
5) When it breaks it is something you can actually fix: When it breaks you fix it rather than throwing it out which you would likely do for most other items around your home. That means learning new skills when fixing it yourself or helping the local economy by buying repair tools/equipment or searching out a clock repair person (horologist) in your community.
6) An heirloom; pass it on to your children. Clocks are memories by association. Children love receiving clocks from their parents not only because of their collectible and intrinsic value but as a keepsake, a reminder of good times and happy memories. Yes, they are timeless gifts!
Gustav Becker, a retirement gift that I will pass on to my children
7) A soothing sound in a room. Intoxicating to some, annoying to others. Some clocks have beautiful tones and melodies. I always ask guests who stay over whether they mind a clock ticking in their bedroom. A striking or chiming clock might be considered an annoyance when one is not accustomed to the sound. If they suggest stopping the clock I always comply without question. The exception, of course, is the anniversary clock which emits no sound whatsoever. My sister has a number of vintage and antique clocks, she has very little idea how they work but loves the look and the sounds they make.
You would have to have exceptional powers to hear this 400 day clock in any room
8) Gets you out of the house; My wife and I are into antiquing and that means getting in the car and driving around our beautiful province. We get some exercise, discover new places, meet new people, exchange stories and bring back memorable articles including our cherished clocks.
9) A conversation starter; It is a conversation starter; I have two clocks that are over 140 years old and many that are at least 100 years old. Can’t think of a thing to say when company is over? Well, I can tell you fascinating stories about many of my clocks. I often tell stories of our clock hunting adventures throughout Nova Scotia and other parts of Canada and some of the characters we meet along the way.
Go out and buy a mechanical clock! Clocks are not only good for the environment but they are good for the soul.
It is a question many clock owners face when confronted with a nonfunctional antique or vintage clock. Whether it’s a handed-down family heirloom, a vintage find from a flea market, or a sentimental gift, deciding whether to invest in repairs can feel daunting. Beyond its monetary value, a clock’s worth often lies in its history, craftsmanship, or the memories it holds. In this article, we’ll explore key factors to consider—such as the clock’s condition, sentimental significance, and potential repair costs—to help you determine whether restoring your clock is the right choice for you.
1) Sentimental value:
An antique clock passed down through generations often carries more than just the weight of its years; it holds the stories, traditions, and memories of a family or a special person. Such a clock may be destined to continue its legacy with future generations.
Similarly, a clock might hold personal significance as a cherished anniversary present, a thoughtful retirement gift, or a token of friendship. In these cases, the emotional value far outweighs its replacement value, making the clock truly “one of a kind” and irreplaceable. Repairing a clock with this kind of sentimental importance is unquestionably worthwhile. When entrusted to a trusted, professionally certified repair person (horologist), the restoration ensures its continued presence in your life, regardless of its resale value.
For instance, my 114-year-old Gustav Becker two-weight Vienna Regulator, a retirement gift from my wife, holds immense sentimental value. Initially purchased as a project clock on eBay, it required substantial investment to function correctly. Today, it looks stunning and runs beautifully, but repairing it wasn’t about the cost; it was about preserving something irreplaceable. In such cases, the expense of repair becomes less of an investment and more of a necessary operating cost to keep a beloved treasure alive.
Gustav Becker two weight regulator, a retirement gift from my dear wife
I own a Ridgeway grandfather clock that I plan to pass down to my children. It holds deep sentimental value, reminding me of a clock my wife and I nearly purchased over 30 years ago. At the time, we decided not to proceed with the deal but made a promise that we would one day own a grandfather clock like it. That promise was fulfilled in 2012 when we found a Ridgeway Hamilton Country grandfather clock, made in 1996 and in pristine condition. If and when it eventually requires repair, the cost may equal its market value, but to me, the repair would be well worth it. Its sentimental significance far outweighs any monetary considerations.
Ridgeway Hamilton Country Westminster chime tall clock
2) A decorative item: The second type of clock is one with no emotional value—purely a decorative piece that no longer works. Perhaps it was a flea market find you got running for a time, but now it has stopped. In this case, you have two options: let it sit as a decorative item or repair it. When considering repairs, the replacement value of the clock should play a key role in your decision. If the repair costs exceed the cost of replacing the clock, it may make more sense to simply replace it.
However, if you have the tools and skills to repair it yourself, weigh the cost of new parts against your time and effort. For quality clocks, even a full overhaul of the movement may cost less than the clock’s actual value. With common antique clocks, such as American mantel or wall clocks, repair costs often approach or even exceed their market value. For rare or unusual clocks, however, repairs are typically more economical relative to their value, making the investment worthwhile.
3) Collector value: The third category includes clocks with collector value.
If a clock has been purchased as an “investment,” for resale, or simply as part of a collection, the repair costs should not exceed its overall value. For high-grade clocks requiring repair, especially if parts are unavailable, it’s important to carefully consider whether repairing it is worthwhile. When selling a clock, remember that buyers almost always prefer one in working condition, and as original as possible, so minimal repairs may enhance its appeal and value.
For example, I recently acquired a miniature Vienna Regulator. Not only is it in good working order, but it is also in exceptional condition—an impressive feat for a clock that is 145 years old.
One-weight Vienna miniature wall clock, circa 1870
For collectors, determining a clock’s value can be challenging, especially with the significant fluctuations in clock prices in recent years. However, certain types of clocks, such as high-quality French bracket clocks, English lantern clocks, carriage clocks, and jeweler’s regulators, have managed to retain their value. Clocks that are unique, exquisitely crafted, low-production, or one-of-a-kind are typically far more valuable than common, mass-produced examples.
4) Quick re-sale: The final category includes clocks purchased for quick resale.
Many individuals buy and sell antique and vintage clocks purely for profit, often through online marketplaces or specialized sales. When acquiring a clock with the intent to resell, it’s important to factor in both the time and cost of repairs or parts needed to make it marketable. Since buyers almost always prefer a functioning clock, a fully serviced clock is not only more desirable but can also command a higher price than one left unserviced.
This Ingersoll-Waterbury mantel clock (photo above) was purchased at a flea market for a very reasonable price and has since been fully serviced. If I were to sell it, I would need to recover the initial purchase price along with the cost of my time and supplies.
It’s worth noting that many clocks sold on online marketplaces are marketed to unsuspecting buyers. Sellers often claim the clock is in “excellent running condition” while adding a caveat that it “may require adjustment after shipping.” If you’re involved in buying and selling, keep in mind that buyers are often looking for a bargain. Additionally, you may not always achieve the price you believe your clock is worth, so pricing realistically is essential.
Final thoughts
There are many reasons why people acquire antique and vintage clocks. Deciding whether they are worth keeping or repairing ultimately depends on your purpose—whether it’s for profit, sentimental value, or a passion for collecting, as it is for me. Each clock has its own story and value, and understanding your connection to it will guide your decision.
“A pig in a poke” is an old expression but it still has relevance in the clock world today. What does it mean? It means something that is bought or accepted without knowing its value or seeing it first. Or, another way of putting it, a deal that is foolishly accepted without being examined first. If you have been to a live auction you might have experienced winning a bid on that seemingly expensive hall table, for example, only to find it was made in Indonesia.
My own personal example. I bought an antique wall clock (100+ years old) on EBay a year ago and from the write-up it looked great. I was eager to see it. When it arrived I began to notice a few things right away and little details later on despite the description that it was “all original”. The glass on all three sides was said to be original, clearly it was not. The clock hands were off of an Ogee clock and poorly attached, The movement was made during the same period the clock was made however the pendulum sits very low in the case leading me to believe that it (the movement) may not be original. The rod gong was probably added later. Normally the gong is in back of the pendulum. There are two different styles of weights though the differences are almost imperceptible. I could go on but the point is this: do not trust any seller absolutely in your online dealings. Luckily for me the clock works and shows well.
Gustav Becker two weight “Vienna Regulator”
Typically sellers will describe just about everything they feel the buyer needs to know but leave out essential details. This is called omission. It means that something in the description is deliberately left out for whatever reason. Is it unethical? Perhaps. However, sellers do not have an obligation to tell you everything about an item you are interested in since there are no disclosure laws in online dealing. That is why it is important to ask questions, lots of questions prior to any purchase.
The other day I followed postings on Facebook regarding a clock purchase. The person was quite proud of the fact that he had an attractive Art Deco clock coming in the mail. He provided only one photo of the clock showing its face and base. The style was similar to this clock.
Kienzle World Time clock
It was the only photo provided by the seller and with good reason. It was advertised as an 8-day clock because that is what it said on the clock face. It arrived several days later. This individual thought he was getting a mechanical clock but discovered when it arrived that the original movement had been taken out and replaced with a cheap quartz movement. Naturally he was dismayed. Caveat Emptor some would say but in this case the seller could have been more forthright. However, let me reiterate, the time to ask key questions is before the purchase.
The other day, again on Facebook, a fellow had bought a German box clock very similar to this one from my collection. When it arrived he proudly showed off his new acquisition.
U M Muller German “box clock”, time and strike
The clock was keeping great time though the pendulum was very high up in the box and could barely be seen through the front glazing. It looked very odd. When he presented a photo of the inside of the clock it was clear that the seat board was handmade and it was obvious that the movement was originally mounted within a much smaller case.
Some weeks ago I was looking for banjo clock and I saw a couple on a local for-sale site. One was very intriguing. The only photo was of the outside of the clock; nothing showing the movement. I thought if it is weight driven it would be an excellent deal. I contacted the seller by email and I asked if it were weight driven and he said he thought so but he also mentioned that it came with a winding key for the spring. Thanks I said.
Let the buyer beware. If you buy something you take responsibility to make sure it is what you intended to buy. Ask enough questions so that you are absolutely satisfied you know what you are getting otherwise you may be getting a pig in a poke.
I noticed this topic in a well frequented clock forum site and it prompted me to write this article.
Many clock collectors realize that presentation is everything. I have about 25 clocks on display in my home and in each case I try as much as possible to situate the clock so that it catches the eye, enhances the room and stimulates conversation from friends and family.
I try not to place more than one clock in one particular location. However, I also recognize that some collectors wish to display their entire collection by having multiple clocks in one particular spot. If this is your choice, it makes perfect sense to group your clocks into types. They may be according to maker, style, type, vintage / age, or country of origin. For example, a collection might have wall clocks in one area or room, shelf clocks in another area or room, European clocks in one area, North American clocks in another and so on. I have observed that some presentations are very well thought out with a distinct theme running through while I have seen other collections that are haphazard and confusing. It takes a little care and attention when arranging your collection.
Some collectors place limits on how many clocks are displayed at one time and how many are actually running at one time. Most of the clocks I have on display are running continually but I tend to allow some clocks to stop for a “break”. Occasionally I will change the location of some clocks for a little variety keeping in mind that some are quite sensitive to being moved.
Let me show you some examples of my arrangements. You can see just three clocks in the following photo. There are in fact 7 clocks in this room but since it is a fairly large room the clocks can be nicely spread out. The most prominent is a 2-weight Gustav Becker circa 1902 which I have written about in several posts. It is 51 inches in height and certainly commands the room. At the bottom centre is a Seth Thomas time and strike round-top cottage clock made in the 1930`s and to the right is an Ansonia time-only short drop octagon, circa 1895.
Clocks in a front room
If you prefer your collection confined to one room rather than spreading the clocks throughout the house, that is certainly another option. While some prefer to consolidate their collection in one area of the house others, like myself, prefer to have clocks in almost every room. It is a matter of choice and of course, what your partner can tolerate.
Ridgeway tall case clock
In another example my Ridgeway tall case (or grandfather clock) is one of two clocks in an entrance hallway. Unfortunately, this tall case clock is the only one I have room for. If I find another, this one would have to go. The other clock in the entrance hallway is an Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time wall clock seen here.
Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock
Arthur Pequegnat Brandon schoolhouse clock
This schoolhouse clock is on the second floor of my home. We have a very simple rule; no striking clocks on the second floor for obvious reasons. The sound of a striking clock tends to keep some folks awake.
This U.M. Muller time and strike wall clock is our go-to kitchen clock.
U M Muller wall clock
And finally here is a Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock appropriately placed on top of a 1947 Stromberg Carlson console radio in our dining room.
Mauthe mantel clock
It does not take much to carefully place clocks in the home but it does require some amount of thoughtfulness, care and attention. Let me know what you think about arranging your collection.
Clock collectors understand the importance of presentation when displaying their collection. While it’s generally recommended to avoid placing multiple clocks in one location, some collectors choose to showcase their entire collection together. In such cases, grouping the clocks based on maker, style, type, vintage/age, or country of origin can create a cohesive and visually appealing arrangement. Thoughtful and well-planned presentations with a distinct theme running through them tend to be more successful than haphazard and confusing displays.
It’s common for collectors to set limits on the number of clocks displayed and running at any given time. Some clocks may be allowed to stop for a “break” while others continue to run continuously. Occasionally changing the location of clocks can add variety, but it’s important to consider the sensitivity of certain clocks to being moved.
For example, in one photo, there are three prominently displayed clocks in a large room, including a 2-weight Gustav Becker clock from 1902, a Seth Thomas round-top cottage clock, and an Ansonia short drop octagon clock. The arrangement allows the clocks to command attention without overcrowding the space.
Another option is to confine the collection to one room, while others prefer to have clocks distributed throughout the house. The choice depends on personal preference and the tolerance of one’s partner.
In an entrance hallway, the Ridgeway tall case clock shares space with an Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time wall clock. The limitations of the hallway restrict the number of clocks displayed.
A schoolhouse clock is placed on the second floor, following the rule of avoiding striking clocks in upper-level rooms to prevent disturbing sleep.
The kitchen features a U.M. Muller time and strike wall clock, which serves as a reliable timepiece for the household.
Lastly, a Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock sits atop a 1947 Stromberg Carlson console radio in the dining room, adding a touch of elegance to the space.
Arranging a clock collection requires thoughtful consideration, care, and attention. It’s essential to find a balance between showcasing the clocks and maintaining a visually pleasing and harmonious environment. Each placement decision contributes to the overall aesthetic and impact of the collection within the home.
Every clock owner wants to know what their clock is worth and every clock seller wants to know what price they can ask for. This article will provide a guide to buying or selling an antique or vintage clock.
I will attempt to answer the following questions beginning with comments about the unpredictable clock market.
What factors are considered when assessing the value of a clock?
Is it original?
What type or style of clock is it?
Does the clock have a label, trademark, or prominent name?
Is it from the correct period or is it a “knock-off” or “re-issue”?
Does the clock have provenance?
What is the age and condition?
Is the clock collectible?
What is the mechanism type?
It all comes down to research
The unpredictable clock market
Unfortunately, in this unpredictable market, it is almost impossible to determine the value of a clock. What you think your clock may be worth today may not align with what the experts say and what others are willing to pay. What has value today may not have value tomorrow. Many factors influence the buying and selling of clocks and the clock market can be a battlefield with many casualties.
Recently, I saw a mid-1990s Howard Miller grandfather clock listed for sale on a Facebook site. I tracked the ad over the course of several days. The owner originally wanted $3000 but later stated they would take “no less than $1500” when it became obvious to them that the ad was not attracting attention. Personal value tends to be subjective and while the owner might have paid $3000 or more for a beautifully carved oak grandfather clock, its present value is not anywhere near what he thinks it is worth. I stopped following the ad but the seller likely withdrew it from sale.
Even an appraised value is the subjective opinion of an expert assessment based on condition and collectibility which is always subject to shifts in the market. My Ridgeway grandfather clock is in excellent condition, runs well, and has a command presence in my home but it is not worth much in today’s market.
Ridgeway Grandfather clock, Hamilton Country
What factors are considered when assessing the value of a clock?
Is it original? Original clocks attract buyers. The value of a clock decreases if some or many parts have been changed out. Determining whether or not a clock is original can often be difficult to determine unless viewed by an expert. The many “Vienna Regulator” clocks found on eBay and other online for-sale sites are missing parts, have had parts added such as crowns, finials, dial faces, hands, and even movements, and have weights that are not original to the clock. Back in the 1960s, many Vienna Regulators came to America in wooden crates consisting of loose movements and cases which were then married, assembled, and sold.
Would you expect a 100% original clock when the seller suggests that it is complete and original while at the same time admitting that they know nothing about clocks? Reputable auction houses have more accurate descriptions of the clocks they offer for sale when they describe condition and state if parts are missing or questionable. Moreover, they do not exaggerate the condition of a clock if they value their reputation.
Gustav Becker 2 weight regulator clock. It looks good but many parts have been replaced over the years.
What type or style of clock is it? Many mantel clocks in my collection are worth almost nothing since thousands were made and few good ones have survived. That said, some American mantel clocks are desirable and command high prices such as the Patti line of clocks from E N Welch or Sonora clocks from Seth Thomas. An 18th-century English bracket clock, an ornate French Cartel clock, or an American jeweler’s regulator are styles and types that are sought after by collectors and have retained their value over the years. On the other hand, tall-case or grandfather clocks, some as old as 200 years, can be had for a fraction of their value. Wall clocks tend to command higher prices than mantel clocks.
Does the clock have a label, trademark, or prominent name? Clocks that have an identifying label or trademark are more desirable than those that do not. Collectors often ask if the label is intact or if the movement is marked. Replacement labels are frowned upon by collectors and unmarked movements are less desirable as they may be replacements. Clocks made by prominent clock-makers add value. Old English bracket clocks with subsidiary dials, made by prominent clockmakers come to mind. A marked E. Howard or an authentic Willard banjo clock has more value than an un-named/unmarked clock similar in style and age.
The rear panel of an Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock showing the label
Is it from the correct period or a “knock-off”? Is it original or a reproduction? There are excellent examples of reproduction wall clocks that look very much like period clocks from the early 1900s that are no more than 30-40 years old. Seth Thomas made a reissue of the iconic Regulator #2 in the 1970s which is not as desirable as the original #2. Often the differences are very obvious and sometimes quite subtle.
Does the clock have provenance? Does the clock have a story or does it have historical significance or can it be placed within a historical context? This Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock spent most of it’s life in a train station waiting room not 30 minutes drive from my home. In the early nineties when the station was decommissioned it was purchased by a collector and was in his hands until I bought it from him about a few years ago. This is a key selling point and may add value. The history of the clock may be an important element in a sale.
Canadian Time clock by Pequgnat C.1929
The Ingraham Huron shelf clock (below) had been with a Bridgewater, Nova Scotia family since the 1890s. Balloon clocks, as they are called, seldom come up for auction and are valued by collectors because of their interesting design and limited production. In the case of this clock, This model was made between 1878 to 1880.
Ingraham Huron shelf clock C.1878
What is the age and condition? Many people think their clock is worth a lot of money when they see a similar clock by the same maker sell for a high price at auction. If their clock is missing case pieces, large sections of veneer, the hands are broken and so on, the value will be adversely affected. If the dial has been badly repainted or there have been poor repairs, the clock is not considered as valuable.
The age of a clock does not always mean that it has more value. A clock may be a style, or by a maker, who, regardless of age is not popular with collectors. Sperry and Shaw 4-column New York-style 30-hour clocks, while attractive, and over 125 years old, are not sought after by collectors as Sperry and Shaw, retailers rather than clock-makers, were clock merchants who used questionable assembling methods and dishonest selling practices.
172-year-old Sperry & Shaw 4 column clock
Thousands of gingerbread or kitchen clocks were made during the period 1885 to 1915. Despite their age, few have any value.
Is the clock collectible? Rare clocks are rare because few exist or rare because few owners want to sell them. OG (Ogee) clocks are clearly antiques, some more than 150 years old, but because thousands were made they are not as collectible as a one-of-a-kind 17th century English lantern clock. 30-hour Ogee clocks are also tough to sell because of the hassle of winding them every day.
Desirability is also region-specific. Of the many parlour clocks made in Canada, those made by the Hamilton Clock Company in the 1880s (Hamilton, Ontario, Canada) are very desirable by Canadian collectors. Arthur Pequegnat clocks, wall clocks, hall clocks, mantel clocks, or kitchen clocks fetch higher prices than similarly styled clocks because they are actively sought after by collectors in Canada. Outside of Canada, they are worth far less.
Martin Cheney clocks (1810) made in Montreal (Canada) are highly collectible, of exceptional quality, and are very rare. True Vienna Regulator clocks such as those from the Biedermeier period made prior to 1850 and authenticated as original are very desirable, reflect high asking prices, and are valued more than contemporary versions.
The key is research. Check eBay, reputable auction houses, local buy-and-sell sites, clock shops, antique stores and online message boards to get a feel for the range of prices and bear in mind that markets are very volatile
Cartel clocks are exceptional 18th-century French clocks and those fabricated by clock-makers such as Joseph de Saint-Germain or Duponchel à Paris command prices in the many thousands of dollars.
What is the mechanism type? Generally, three train clocks (time, strike, and chime) are mechanically more complex and are normally valued higher than two trains (time and strike) clocks. Three-weight Vienna Regulator Grande Sonnerie clocks generally command higher prices than a single or two-weight Vienna Regulator.
American clock company Sessions sold inexpensive clocks for the masses and produced many thousands. The Sessions Westminster-A tambour style clock has an unusual 2-train chime movement (chiming clocks generally have three trains) and fetch higher prices on auction sites than other Sessions mantel clocks.
Weight-driven clocks generally command higher prices than spring-driven varieties.
Sessions Westminster A mantel clock, C.1927
It all comes down to research
Do your research: Check eBay, reputable auction houses, your local buy-and-sell sites, clock shops, antique stores, and online message boards to get a feel for prices. Keep in mind that markets are extremely volatile. Do your homework prior to making any purchase. What may have sold for several hundred dollars years ago (30-hour Ogee clocks) are worth much less today.
Ask questions before you purchase your next clock and if you are a seller, provide an honest description of your clock and disclosures (new pendulum, new mainsprings, etc.). Chinese, Korean, and most Japanese clocks are not particularly collectible or desirable. If you firmly believe your prized Chinese-made Daniel Dakota family heirloom is worth over $150, potential buyers may not be beating down your door but a fair price of $40-50 might result in a quick sale.
This 1960s vintage Daniel Dakota wall clock is worth almost nothing
Clock prices are all over the map and we will not see a stabilization of prices any time soon. With the advent of the internet, many clocks thought to be rare have flooded the market depressing prices. The law of supply and demand applies. As demand increases, supply decreases, and prices rise. As supply increases and demand decreases, prices drop. The only constant is high-end clocks, sought after by serious collectors that have managed to retain their value. But how many of us can afford them?
Now is a good time for that special clock. There are certainly bargains to be had if you search carefully, learn as much as you can along the way, and tread lightly into the buyers arena or if you are placing a value on your clock to prepare it for sale.
I do not mean marriage in the traditional sense. In the clock world a marriage is defined as a bringing together of parts to make a complete functioning clock. Among clock circles it is generally accepted that if a clock has significant parts from another source, such as a movement, pendulum, weights, put into a different though correct case it is considered a marriage.
Gustav Becker 2-weight regulator
If it has a large number of parts from a variety of sources, even parts not original to the period or correct to the clock it might be considered something else. See my previous post for a discussion on Frankenclocks.
I am in a bit of a quandary.
I have written a number of blog posts concerning a Gustav Becker two-weight regulator clock that I bought in February. I am fascinated by what I have learned about this clock but the journey has been both enlightening and frustrating as I attempt to get it to run reliably.
I purchased it as a project clock and knew that I would have to source parts that were missing from the movement which the seller disclosed at the time of sale. I decided to buy another GB movement. About a month after I bought the clock my search on EBay bore fruit. The movement I found (from Poland!) was a Braunau movement which is the same factory but newer by 16 years (1902 versus 1918). It was an excellent fit for my clock project since up to 90% of the parts are interchangeable and the price was very reasonable.
Clock face with replacement VR hands
My intent was to part out the 1918 movement to supply the 1902 movement with the parts I needed such as two springs, a snail / star wheel, hammer assembly and gathering pallet. While I took what I could from the 1918 movement to get the original movement running I had mixed success. It ran well for a while and then it would stop and lock up for no apparent reason. It stopped several times. Each time I took it apart, inspected the parts I thought might be problematic but found nothing amiss. After I dis-assembled, cleaned and oiled the movement each time I had it out, I returned the movement to it’s case and the clock would run for a while, a couple of weeks, a couple of days, hours perhaps before it would just stop abruptly. I am sure that if I investigated further I would find a slightly bent pivot, worn pinion or problematic gear tooth somewhere. Now for plan B.
Weights for Regulator clock
I thought, well I do have the 1918 movement, why not switch them and see what happens. I returned all the parts such as star wheel / snail, springs, hammer assembly etc. from the 1902 movement to the 1918 movement and hoped that the 1918 movement once installed in the case would run and run well. I was initially concerned that the newer movement, a P27 requiring what I thought was a longer pendulum would not fit the case case but it seems to be sized perfectly. It is a mystery to me how pendulums are measured. The movement has now been in the case for the last fourteen days and it is not only running well but keeping excellent time.
The question remains, should I leave the 1918 movement in the case since it is now running well? Although it is the “correct” movement though not the original one, could the clock now be considered a “marriage”? The answer is, yes!
If I were to sell the clock I would disclose that the movement is not original to the case which would certainly affect its overall value. I could make the deal more attractive by providing the original movement as part of the sale considering that it is repairable, if I sold it! These situations occur quite often in the world of EBay et al when the clock seller chooses not to give too much detail in their description of the item when they know some parts are not original. Furthermore, from a buyers perspective there is no guarantee that the clock they are looking at is 100% original.
Gustav Becker clock occupying a prominent location in the living room
This is my first marriage. Would I do it again? If faced with similar circumstances in the future I would probably do the same thing but it has also taught me to be cautious with any potential clock purchase by asking key questions prior to any decision.
Of course this clock is not for sale. I think the clock looks outstanding on my living room wall.
Let me know if you have you performed any marriages or if you think it is an ethical practice?
This article is about a curious term that you might have heard concerning clocks and clock collecting. The term is FrankenClock. Let me explain.
Have you ever bought a clock and as much as you hoped that every mechanical part, finial and piece of trim is original and you later found out through experience, research or knowledge that it is not, how then do you feel about your purchase? Obviously you might feel disappointed, even cheated. So if a clock has parts that are not original what would it be called? Some would call it a FrankenClock.
Gustav Becker 2 weight Vienna Regulator
Let me explain further. Here is my Vienna regulator clock as it is today. It shows well, keeps excellent time after a replaced movement, a thorough cleaning, oiling and case repairs. It is original? Well, mostly. As I said in a previous post this clock was sold as a “project” clock and the seller made no pretense that everything was absolutely original and that is fair game. Here is a summary of what I have discovered so far.
Clock glass panels
Let’s begin with the side and front glass panels which I believed were original when I recieved the clock. The glass was broken during shipment and had to be replaced. In fact, the case was broken is several parts, but that is another story. Although I thought I was replacing the original glass I found out that the broken glass was likely not original to the case. When I brought the case into a glass installer I was asked two simple questions. Why is the side glass thicker than the front glass and why are finishing nails used to anchor the glass? Good points. So, just how many times was the glass replaced on this clock?
GB weights
Weights
The weights at first glance looked identical but closer inspection reveals that one weight has a slightly different hook design than the other. I doubt the factory would have provided dissimilar weights.
The movement
The movement appears to be a match for the case and it is appropriate to the period but is it original? The movement had parts missing which the seller kindly disclosed when the clock was advertised for sale. Parts missing were the star wheel/snail and the strike hammer and rod. The gathering pallet for the rack was bent and therefore could not advance the rack. In any event the strike side did not function at all. Thus began my search for a donor movement.
I was specifically searching for a Gustav Becker “Braunau” factory movement to provide the correct parts for my clock. The donor movement came from Poland. From the serial number on the donor movement I was able to determine that it was made 16 years after the movement that came with the clock. Minor differences were expected. The plates were thinner, the lever springs were a different design, the minute arbour shaft was slightly thicker and the star wheel/snail, gathering pallet and hammer/rod and were not a good fit for my old movement. A disappointment, the parts were not interchangeable. Out went the old movement and in went the new movement.
NOTE: I kept the old movement and if I sell the clock in the future I will disclose that change and others.
On to other issues
The spun brass dial bezel is a replacement though correct for the period.
Upper left side trim piece
There are a couple of trim pieces that I suspect were probably added later on though when, I do not know.
Bottom centre finial
The bottom centre finial appears to be a replacement though probably correct for the period. The bottom finial has wormwood holes but the clock case itself does not have one bit of worm damage.
showing hour hand on dialMinute hand missing it’s centre bushing
The clock did not have Vienna regulator hands. They are Ogee clock hands. I searched the supply houses in Canada, the US and Britain and was surprised at the limited selection of Vienna regulator hands. The photo below shows replacement hands with the correct measurements. The hands are also from Poland. There must be quite a successful business in Poland parting out clocks and selling the pieces. The hands have not arrived yet.
Vienna clock hands
i later discovered that they are not the correct hands but they look good and they will do for now.
Are there other parts of the clock that are not original? Yes, but it does not change how I feel about this clock. It has provided me with an excellent learning experience and it allows me to view future purchases with a much more critical eye.
Caveat Emptor
There are many examples of FrankenClocks and you may even have one or two in your collection. There is a popular expression that I always find appropriate in these cases. It is Caveat Emptor (let the buyer beware), the principle that the buyer alone is responsible for checking the quality and suitability of goods before a purchase is made. Reputable auction houses will disclose repairs and replacement or questionable parts on a clock but do not depend on what the seller says on most popular online auction sites. It’s a jungle out there!
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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