Elisha Manross, though less commonly known compared to American clockmakers such as Seth Thomas, New Haven, or Waterbury, played a significant role in the development of Connecticut clocks. In his book American Shelf and Wall Clocks Robert Ball listed Elisha Manross as being in business from 1827 -1849.
He was a prolific clockmaker and produced a variety of clocks but one of his more desirable clocks is a “double steeple” shelf clock with an 8-day time and strike spring strap brass fusee movement with a 12″ pendulum.
Manross was known as the clockmaker’s clockmaker because his products were used by many clock-manufacturing firms such as Boardman and Wells, Sperry and Shaw, and other well-known makers. Although my clock is a 30-hour version, Manross made 8-day weight-driven movements as well.
However, the focus of this article is a 30-hour gothic steeple made in the early 1840s that came to me as part of a collection of old clocks found in a barn 20 minutes drive from my home.
The completed clock, the hour, and the minute hand are replacements; the original ones would have been spade and spear
There were thousands of steeple clocks made by many American manufacturers at that time but it is unusual to find one with its original brass mainsprings intact as many have undergone replacements with steel mainsprings. The brass mainsprings in this clock have not only remained but also seem to be in excellent condition.
Cleaned brass mainsprings, notice how tight the brass is in the centre
Brass springs were developed in the E.C. Brewster shop in Bristol sometime around 1833-35 and patented in 1836. They were used by Seth Thomas, Brewster & Ingraham, and others.
Brass mainsprings were uncommon in American clocks, having a brief period of use from 1836 to about 1850. Domestically manufactured mainsprings were not available in the US until 1847. In 1847, the widespread adoption of tempered steel mainsprings began and soon replaced the use of brass mainsprings in clockmaking so ending the era of brass springs. Brass springs were used in Manross miniature Ogees, and shelf clocks.
The goal of servicing
Preserving the movement with the least intervention possible is the primary goal. There is a temptation to replace them with steel counterparts and put the brass springs aside. However, to maintain the historical authenticity of this clock, they will remain in the movement.
Elisha Manross movement, as found: Type S5.1 30-hour movement with centre mount count wheel
Working with brass mainspringsand addressing wear
Working with brass mainsprings requires careful handling; unlike steel, they cannot be stretched out for cleaning. After cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaner, and meticulous drying using strips of terry cloth worked into the coil, the results are impressive.
Upon inspecting the movement as a whole, I noticed certain pivot holes with punch marks around them. Punching was commonly used to close pivot holes then but is not considered an acceptable practice today. Despite being punched, they continued to function effectively.
To address the most significant wear, only the problematic pivot holes underwent bushing. Four bushings were added on the strike side, where wear tends to be more pronounced—a commonly encountered issue in clock restoration. There were no new bushings required on the time side.
Punch marks to close a hole
A past tooth repair resulted in a sturdy albeit somewhat rough appearance. It could have been filed down and polished but I left it as-is because it is part of the clock’s history.
Main wheel tooth repair
The final step involved returning the clock to its case, preserving not just its functionality but also its historical integrity.
Jauch had ties to one of the oldest clock-maker families in the Black Forest. The Gerbrueder Jauch company, known for manufacturing hall, wall, and mantel clocks, faced challenges in late 1979 due to export restrictions, ultimately leading to bankruptcy in 1986.
Jauch schoolhouse-style clock
Renowned for providing affordable yet attractive clocks for average households, Gerbrueder Jauch GmbH produced clocks like the drop octagon schoolhouse-style clock, reminiscent of classic American designs. However, within the realm of German clockmakers, I would not place this particular maker among the elite. In terms of comparison to American counterparts, it aligns more closely with companies like the Sessions Clock Company, the company that provided clocks for the average home.
Measuring 23 inches in height, 15 inches in width, and nearly 5 inches in depth, this clock very closely resembles the dimensions of schoolhouse clocks from over a century ago. Unlike antique American clocks with oak cases, this one features a more cost-effective pine case.
Jauch clock with flip-up dial bezel
Its bezel adopts a flip-up design for winding, distinguishing it from clocks with right-swinging dial bezel doors.
The clock bears the inscription “Western Germany” on the dial and movement, with the movement stamped with a production date of July 1979. For history enthusiasts, it’s noteworthy that German reunification took place in 1989, simplifying the dating of clocks from this era.
AnotherJauch wall clock with a faux regulator case, a customer’s clock
This clock requires a very long #7 key for winding, which may pose a challenge even for some collectors that have an abundance of spare keys.
The clock’s issues, suspected to be related to the anchor escapement or potential bushing wear in the top part of the train, present an interesting repair challenge.
Despite being a non-functional find, purchased for a mere $1.65 at a local thrift shop, the clock has some potential for restoration. Thrift shops often price items low for quick turnover, and this vintage mechanical clock, though uncommon among donated goods, offers promise. While the case may show signs of wear, a thorough cleaning and a fresh clear-coat finish can easily revive its appearance.
Given the absence of basic issues, apart from a scuffed-up case, restoring this Jauch clock to working order should be a manageable task, making it worthy of a price of more than $1.65, I would think.
While clock sales aren’t my usual trade, occasionally, I part with clocks to cover supplies and fund additions to my growing collection.
The belief that bad luck happens in threes is a common folk belief that suggests that if you experience one bad event or stroke of bad luck, two more are likely to follow in quick succession. While this adage is not grounded in any scientific or empirical evidence, it has persisted for years.
In this blog post, I will recount a series of unfortunate events I’ve experienced with one specific clock, a German-made mahogany-cased Junghans Hansruck time and strike mantel clock from the latter part of 1913.
While my bad luck didn’t unfold rapidly it seems that I was destined to have problems with this clock from the outset.
Junghans Hansruck time and strike mantel clock when first received
Some time ago, I purchased the clock through an online auction. Emerging as the successful bidder, I arranged for the clock to be shipped to my location. It arrived intact and undamaged.
Setback Number One
After unpacking the clock, I immediately set out to test its functionality. I wound up both the strike side and the time side, ready to set the correct time when the minute hand unexpectedly snapped off. It wasn’t an ideal beginning, to say the least. While the minute hand was repairable, it added another layer of frustration to contend with.
Okay, I can deal with the hand later. Back to the clock. The clock wasn’t working after all, but a good cleaning and addressing any wear issues should get it running again.
Soldered minute hand
I managed to solder the hand and put it aside while I addressed the movement.
Setback Number Two
I serviced the movement, reassembled it, and placed it on the test stand. It ran smoothly for a few days on the time side, but the strike side had issues. While investigating the malfunction I identified a small stamped metal part on the movement had bent. In an attempt to straighten it, I inadvertently applied too much force, causing the piece to snap off. I’ll call the part an actuator.
The strike actuator when activated lifts a lever to begin the strike process. The actuator is attached to the front plate with a small machine screw and is free to move.
On the center arbor is a star cam. The 2 points on the star cam rotate every 30 minutes until a star point pushes the strike actuator to begin the strike sequence. A protruding piece of metal, the contact piece for the star point on the actuator, is the part that broke as I was attempting to unbend it.
Soldered actuator
As the actuator does not apply much pressure on the lever above it, soldering should do the trick. Back to more soldering.
The actuator is repaired and the hand has been soldered. Both are functioning like new and the movement is running well on the test stand.
Setback Number Three
Satisfied that everything was working correctly after the testing phase and the movement was keeping good time I then proceeded to mount the movement into its case.
Here’s how I think the third mishap occurred.
When mounting the movement into its case, I positioned the case glass side down without any padding. My attempts to secure the movement into the case might have inadvertently stressed the dial glass, leading it to break. I didn’t hear the crack, and the second possibility is that it occurred earlier, possibly getting kicked accidentally on the floor next to my desk.
The bottom line is, that the glass is now cracked, necessitating either replacing it or salvaging the dial bezel from another clock. I don’t suppose anyone has a magical resin that will hide the crack.
I thought so!
Cracked dial glass
Most errors in clockwork are fixable, but a damaged dial glass is an exception—it cannot be repaired.
Cracked glass aside it is a very nice clock and it runs well.
Are setbacks a good thing?
I don’t often publish my mistakes but in the spirit of transparency and the unpredictable nature of clock restoration, it seems fitting to share this series of setbacks with my audience.
So, does bad luck happen in threes? From a statistical perspective, events occurring in threes are not more likely than any other numerical pattern but it happened.
Setbacks are a natural part of the process and should not deter anyone from passionately pursuing a hobby they love. Not every restoration or service of a clock goes according to plan and it’s normal to face unexpected issues when restoring or servicing clocks that are over 100 years old.
Yes, of course, there are lessons learned. But it just seems very strange that all of this happened to me with this one clock.
Assessing the quality of mantel clocks, whether American or German, involves considering various factors such as craftsmanship, materials used, design, and overall reliability. Both American and German manufacturers have a rich history in clockmaking, and each has its own unique characteristics.
In my collection, I’ve assembled a diverse array of clocks, featuring both American and European examples. Drawing upon my experiences, I can confidently say that when it comes to overall quality, I find myself favouring a typical German clock over its American counterpart.
American mantel clocks are known for their diversity in design and style. Manufacturers like Seth Thomas, Ansonia, Waterbury, Sessions, and others have produced a wide range of mantel clocks with different aesthetic influences. The craftsmanship and attention to detail in many American mantel clocks are often praised. Some American manufacturers have a tradition of incorporating high-quality materials, such as solid wood and detailed finishes.
However, the American mantel clock market has seen fluctuations in quality over time. Some collectors and enthusiasts may argue that the mid-20th century saw a decline in craftsmanship as manufacturers faced increased competition and economic pressures.
I see this clearly in American mechanical clocks made in the 1920s and 1930s. There is a definite step downwards in quality and the goal of production seems to have been to maximize profits.
Germany has a long-standing reputation for precision engineering and quality craftsmanship, and this extends to its clockmaking industry. German mantel clocks, especially those produced by renowned manufacturers like Mauthe, Junghans, HAC, Kienzle, Gustav Becker, and others are often associated with precision movements and reliable timekeepers.
German mantel clocks are also known for their mechanical excellence and commitment to traditional clockmaking techniques. Many German clocks feature intricately designed cases and precise movements, often with a focus on accuracy and durability.
German clock manufacturers maintained their commitment to producing high-quality clocks well into the 1920s and 1930s. Instead of compromising on materials or craftsmanship, they opted to charge a premium for their clocks, ensuring that the level of quality remained consistently high.
A comparison
Let’s compare a common German mantel clock with its American counterpart. Both are in my collection.
Junghans bracket style mantel clock
The Junghans mantel clock features a design reminiscent of the popular bracket-style clocks that were fashionable several years before its production around 1915. It has a mahogany veneered case, a brass case handle, brass features below the dial, a solid brass dial bezel with beveled glass, and elegant brass feet. Its sturdy time and strike movement, known for its reliability during that era, adds to the clock’s appeal as a dependable clock for the home.
Seth Thomas time and strike with type 89 movement
The Seth Thomas clock, manufactured in the United States, showcases a case of inferior quality, a basic brass bezel, and a simulated wood veneer that imitates the appearance of exotic wood. Cost-saving to maximize profit was the ultimate priority during the period of manufacture of this clock from the early 1930s.
Despite this, the clock is equipped with the reliable and durable type 89 movement, which has proven to be bulletproof and dependable over time.
Servicing a German vs an American movement
There are pros and cons to servicing either type of movement. German time and strike movements can be a bit more intricate and finicky, especially when setting up the strike side, as lining up the parts correctly is crucial. Dealing with smaller pivots also increases the risk of damage, bending, or breaking.
Conversely, with American time and strike movements, the larger pivots minimize breakage and it requires brute strength to inflict any damage when manipulating the parts.
However crude an American movement might appear in a side-by-side comparison with a German movement, there is a notable advantage to the former. An American movement (generally speaking) can endure wear much better than a German movement, and it can continue to run effectively even when significantly worn.
That said, when both are set up correctly and any wear is mitigated both American and German movements function reliably for years.
In Summary
Both American and German mantel clocks can offer high-quality options, but individual preferences may vary based on factors like design preferences and specific features.
Collectors and enthusiasts often appreciate the historical context and craftsmanship associated with clocks from both regions.
Obviously, your source of clocks depends on where you live in the world as Canadian and American clocks are widely available to those living in North America whereas the opposite is true for European and Australian residents, for example.
One last thing to note is that precision regulators from both countries are of equal quality. Whether American or German, both exhibit equal precision and performance. They both adhere to the highest standards and can be trusted for accurate timekeeping. It’s worth noting, however, that achieving such precision comes with a correspondingly high price.
These viewpoints represent my personal opinions, and I encourage readers to delve into researching specific models and manufacturers. Making an informed decision should be based on individual preferences and priorities.
Clock repairers depend on reputable suppliers for quality parts, tools, and accessories, ensuring durability and customer satisfaction. Trusted suppliers offer a diverse selection of compatible components, expert knowledge, timely delivery, and warranty support. Efficient logistics and ample stock levels from reliable suppliers benefit repairers with waiting customers.
The suppliers mentioned below, none of whom sponsor this author, are my preferred choices based on my extensive experience in procuring parts from them over the years. I’ve also included some suppliers known for their reputation, although I haven’t personally dealt with them.
The original blog post regarding clock repair resources was published last year. However, I’d like to update the list and welcome any additional recommendations. At the request of a reader, I have added an addendum section with a description of the lever setup for the strike train.
An assortment of Bergeon bushings
Notable suppliers, with a short description of their services and with links to each one, include:
Timesavers: According to their site, “TimeSavers is a worldwide distributor of clock parts and repair material. We have been in business since 1975.” Their extensive inventory contains thousands of parts. Timesavers is the best-known clock parts supplier in North America.
Cousins; Cousins is a UK parts supplier I have sought them out for specialty items such as brass feet for a bracket clock and parts for long case clocks and parts not readily available from North American suppliers.
Butterworth: I am not certain if Butterworth has a dedicated site but they can be reached on Facebook. I have ordered a pivot polishing kit from them in the past but they are also known for their unique Butterworth bearing.
Merritts: While their parts inventory may not be as comprehensive as that of other suppliers, they offer a diverse range of antique clocks available for online purchase at reasonable prices.
Meadows and Passmore: Some restrictions apply on the purchase of clock parts and it is best to check with the company before ordering.
Mile-high Clock Parts: The repairer’s source for Keystone tools, staking sets, spring winder, bushing machine as well as other parts.
Clockworks: The clock repairer’s principal source for new Hermle movements as well as other supplies and parts.
Black Forest Imports: A distributor for clock movements and supplier for case parts, tools, repair supplies, etc.
Somal Watch Supply in Toronto, Ontario, Canada is a source for Watch Movements, Watch Tools, Batteries, Mineral Glasses, Crowns, Spring Bars, and more.
Ronell: Ronell is a worldwide provider of clock repair parts and supplies.
Steady rest tool for Tiag metal lathe
A reader suggested Griffens Clocks and they can be reached here. The company acquired R&M Imports in 2019. R&M was well-known to clock enthusiasts and began as a mail-order business in 1968. Griffens also acquired the inventory and assets of the Herschede Clock Company. They are located in Portland Oregon.
ACDP: “offers professional service for all your clock parts and clock repair needs”. This site was recently passed on to me by a reader, a company in the Netherlands called ADCP. On their site, I found difficult-to-locate clock parts of antique German movements among other interesting items.
The past two years have witnessed notable price increases that might unsettle newcomers, in the field of horology. In my experience dealing with suppliers, the costs of essential items such as bushings, files, and specialized tools like bushing machines and spring winders have seen significant spikes since the global pandemic, with some prices surging by 50% to 75%.
Tool for working on escapement bridges
For hobbyists venturing into horology, there are opportunities to find bargains in the used market. However, without developed expertise in locating quality parts and tools in good condition, there’s a risk of falling prey to unscrupulous sellers.
TimeTrax model 185 clock timing machine
While the initial prices of parts may seem attractive, always consider additional factors like taxes, shipping costs, document processing fees, and potential import duties. Some suppliers also impose minimum order requirements. Certain suppliers extend their offerings beyond the clock and watch parts, including antique clocks, repair manuals, and novelty items.
The reliability and quality maintained by these suppliers not only ensure the authenticity of repairs but also contribute to preserving the art of horology so that we can enjoy our clocks today and well into the future.
Seth Thomas is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history, and they produced a variety of clock movements over the years. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas between 1900 and 1938.
Seth Thomas mantel or shelf clock
The mantel clock in question features the Type 89 movement. Acquired in the summer of 2023, this clock boasts a simple and straightforward design.
The focus then shifted to the disassembly process and my examination of the widely-used Seth Thomas Type 89 clock movement.
My observations highlighted a replaced mainspring on the strike side, the necessity for bushing work, and indications of rust, all of which posed challenges that I committed to addressing in subsequent stages such as cleaning, bushing, oiling, and reassembly.
The focus of this blog post is the completion of servicing of this type 89 clock movement.
Front of the type 89 movementbefore disassembly
Cleaning of the mainsprings
There is always the temptation to do nothing with the mainsprings if they look acceptable. However, cleaning the mainsprings is an essential part of clock servicing. Uncoiling and wiping the dirt and grime from the mainsprings with a cloth is the preferred method, but cleaning them with an ultrasonic cleaner is also an option.
In Part I, I cleaned the mainsprings in my ultrasonic cleaner and provided a rationale for this decision. Before I go any further, I’d like to emphasize a crucial point regarding the cleaning of mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner. This practice is not recommended and should only be considered as a last resort.
While cleaning mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner has little impact on the surfaces or mechanism of the cleaner itself the oil removed from the mainsprings generates a black liquid that contaminates the cleaning solution, rendering it ineffective for future use.
Seth Thomas type 89 mainsprings, note the replacement spring on the right
Clamps have been applied to secure the mainsprings after oiling, and they’ve been set aside. Now, we move on to the next step: the bushing phase.
Backplate removed
Bushing the movement
As the movement is fully disassembled this is the stage where bushing work can be done. I commend individuals who choose to bush by hand, but personally, It is not for me.
Various systems exist for bushing, with KWM and Bergeon being the two most widely adopted. It’s worth noting that neither system is inherently superior to the other, as preferences tend to vary among enthusiasts. When referring to a “system,” it’s important to understand that the bushings from one system are not interchangeable with those from the other.
That said I use the Bergeon system.
Bergeon Bushing Machine
Before bushing, I identify all the locations requiring attention and mark them with a Sharpie. There is no permanent mark as rubbing alcohol will easily remove all traces of ink.
I have an excellent assortment of bushings and have all the required ones for this project.
An assortment of Bergeon bushings, #5488
Using cutters each hole is drilled out and chamfered, that is, removing the sharp edges to allow the pushings to be pressed in smoothly. As I insert each new bushing I test the fit by assembling the wheels to check how freely they move. This allows me to make small adjustments in the event the pivot is too tight in the bushing hole.
Cutting into a brass plate
Based on my initial assessment, the bushings for both the front and back plates of the escape wheel were the most worn. The next new bushing is the fourth wheel front plate, the one adjacent to the escape wheel. After three bushings everything looks good and the wear further down the train does not look too bad. A fourth bushing for the fourth wheel should be enough.
A cutting broach is used to enlarge any holes that are a tight fit for a pivot followed by a smoothing broach. To prepare for the wheels to go back in place all bushing holes are cleaned with pegs/toothpicks.
Test fitting the time-side wheels during the bushing process
In the photo above, the plates and gears look shinier after a session with the ultrasonic cleaner. However, it’s important to note that the main goal in clock repair isn’t to make everything as shiny as possible. The focus is on reducing wear and tear. Some dirt and grime on the plates might not come off completely during the cleaning process in every case and it is not something the clock repairer should be overly concerned with.
Back to bushing. There is a little bit of play on the second and third wheels but it is tolerable so, I think I will stop at this point.
Punching a bushing into the plate
Were I in the clock repair business I would bush everything on the time train, or the entire movement for that matter, but since I usually inspect movements in my collection every 2-3 years I can address any additional wear at that time.
On to the strike train. In the first article, I mentioned that there was not much wear on the strike side which might be attributable to that side not being wound as often. The only hole that must be addressed is the cam wheel bushing on the front plate. Why this bushing hole is worn much worse than the others is a bit of a mystery.
Okay, all the work is done for a total of five new Bergeon bushings. The holes have been pegged, and the movement is now ready to be reassembled.
The one hiccup encountered during the bushing process was the malfunction of my caliper tool. Fortunately, this isn’t a major problem, as all the Bergeon bushings are uniform at 3.5mm outside diameter, with inside diameters of either 1.4mm or 1.5mm so I knew what size to grab first.
Reassembly
When dealing with American 8-day time and strike movements, there are challenges in configuring the strike mechanism accurately. Occasionally, luck is on my side, and I manage to place the paddle in the deep slot, position the lever in the lowest part of the cam wheel, and align the warning wheel just right on the first attempt.
A useful tip. If the lever is in the lower part of the cam wheel and the paddle is not in the deep slot, simply move the toothed count wheel sideways so that it does not engage the pinon and reposition the wheel till the paddle finds the deep slot.
No luck setting up the strike this time! If the strike train does not lock correctly it will simply keep on running and you will know that soon enough.
The plates can be partially pried open without the risk of all the wheels and levers springing out. Repositioning the warning wheel involves moving the fly aside, carefully extracting the 4th wheel from its pivot hole, and rotating it a quarter turn or so to ensure the warning pin aligns with the stop lever.
Seth Thomas movement on the test stand
A minor issue with the hammer lever surfaced as it was not aligning correctly with the strike pins on the cam wheel. No disassembly of the movement is required for this adjustment. Simply loosen the bottom two nuts by the mainsprings, and the strike hammer can be removed to straighten it. After having been bent multiple times over the years, straightening it out resolved the issue.
Next, the movement is oiled with Keystone clock pivot oil and mounted on a test stand. After a week it is running and striking as it should.
And lastly, my new caliper arrived just as I was concluding the servicing on this clock.
Addendum
To properly configure the strike side, pay attention to the positioning of the levers as pointed out by the arrows.
ST movement
In the above photo, the lower arrow shows the paddle in the deep slot, and the upper arrow shows the drop lever in the indent of the cam.
Seth Thomas movement
The upper arrow shows the position of the stop pin on the stop wheel. The lower arrow shows the locking lever.
Seth Thomas is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history, and they produced a variety of clock movements over the years. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas over the years. This type was made between 1900 and 1938.
I acquired this mantel clock during the summer of 2023. From a distance, it looked very good but upon closer inspection what I thought was a rosewood veneer finish was in fact, a thin wrapper, so a bit of a disappointment.
The simple lines of this clock was the main attraction
However, the focus of this blog post is not the clock’s case but the ubiquitous type 89 clock movement found within that made its way into thousands of Seth Thomas clocks.
Disassembly
The first step is to remove the hour and minute hands. Working from the back, four case screws release the movement from its case. Things will go along more smoothly if the coiled gong is removed as well.
Looking at the back plate, the suspension spring and rod must be removed first. Then comes the regulating adjustments screw and rod which consists of releasing 3 machine screws and then pulling out the spline gear which is operated through the clock face by the small end of a double-ended winding key. Once that hardware is removed it is on to the removal of the back plate.
Aview of the movement
There are 4 nuts (plus the pendulum rod retainer screw) to be removed, however, it is advisable to unhook the helper spring at the top and the hammer spring at the bottom before lifting up the plate. This will prevent the wheels from being dislodged as the back plate is removed.
If the wheels spring out, reassembling the wheels becomes a challenging task of guesswork to determine their correct locations, especially for beginners.
Brass helper spring hooked around a post
As each part is removed place them in a hobby tray or receptacle so that nothing will be lost or misplaced. No matter what the skill level, separating the time side gears from the strike side is always a good practice.
Findings
Upon lifting the back plate, my initial observation was the replacement of the mainspring on the strike side at some point in the clock’s life.
Whenever I encounter a replaced mainspring, my immediate focus shifts to inspecting potential damage to the main wheel teeth and the lantern pinions in the second and third wheels. This is because the force of a break occasionally causes secondary damage along the gear train. This is often referred to as collateral damage. Fortunately, the components up the train in this movement are undamaged.
Backplate removed
An initial inspection of wear indicates a need for five new bushings on the time side, while only one is necessary on the strike side. Further examination may reveal more once a more detailed assessment is conducted.
Interestingly, the strike side shows less wear, indicating that it was seldom wound. My assumption is that after the repair of the mainspring, the owner decided it wasn’t worth the risk of another mainspring break and chose not to wind it frequently or at all.
More concerning is evidence of rust on the movement posts, some pivots, and the lantern pinions. The clock was obviously stored in a humid location for a period.
Mainsprings
All parts were cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner and thoroughly dried.
Despite my best efforts, I could not separate the main wheels from the mainsprings. I opted to place both the wheel and mainspring in the ultrasonic cleaner. This is not a typical practice for me as it dirties the cleaning solution and limits resue, but I intend to dispose of the cleaning solution after this servicing.
Ultrasonic cleaner
That’s all for now
Despite encountering disappointment in the clock’s case, the disassembly and findings of the ubiquitous Seth Thomas Type 89 clock movement revealed a replaced mainspring on the strike side, a need for bushing work, and evidence of rust, presenting challenges that will be addressed in the upcoming stages of cleaning, bushing work, oiling, and reassembly.
I will conclude here and save the remaining details of the servicing for a subsequent post.
My apologies for the wordplay in the title. I recently encountered an issue with the striking mechanism in a German clock I’m currently repairing, and in this article, I would like to describe my experience with the repair.
I have to admit it is a frustrating problem that could have been a disaster but I came up with a solution that should work.
Junghans movement on the test stand
The other day I was investigating why the strike side of a Junghans time and strike movement was not functioning correctly and discovered a portion of a small stamped metal part on the exterior of the movement had bent.
I had simply pried too hard when unbending a part of the stamped metal piece and it snapped off, which surprised me. It was a very small piece and when it flew off it was hidden in the clutter of my work area but I was successful in retrieving it. Without that small piece, I was not certain I could make the repair.
The movement in the case
Perhaps I do not have the correct name for the part that bent but let’s call it the strike actuator. The strike actuator when activated lifts a lever to begin the strike process. The activator is attached to the front plate with a small machine screw and is free to move.
On the center arbor is a star cam. The 2 points on the star cam rotate every 30 minutes until a star point pushes the strike actuator to begin the strike sequence. A protruding piece of metal, the contact piece for the star point on the actuator, is the part that broke as I was attempting to unbend it.
Junghans movement side view
Needless to say, I was crestfallen. What do I do now!
There are essentially three ways of addressing a situation like this.
If I had enough spare parts, the straightforward fix would be to replace the problematic part by taking it from a donor movement. However, whereas I have an ample supply of spare American movements for American clock repairs, unfortunately, I lack spare German movements for parts.
To my knowledge, there is no established source for Junghans clock parts. While clock parts suppliers offer various components for common repairs like escapements and mainsprings, smaller parts like this are typically not readily available in their inventory.
The second solution is to simply have a nonfunctioning strike side but a clock that at the very least, tells the time.
The third alternative involves undertaking a repair, as there appears to be a potential for some sort of restoration. So, I chose to fix it. Although I cannot assure the repair’s absolute success, my intention is to conduct thorough testing to assess its effectiveness.
The Repair
To repair the actuator there is no need to disassemble the movement. One small slotted screw holds it in place. Release the screw and it is ready to be worked on.
To repair the actuator, I used a high-temperature butane torch along with a solder containing a significant amount of silver. It comes in spools and looks much like aluminum wire.
Silver solder is known for its higher melting point compared to other solder types, ensuring greater durability and reducing the risk of weld cracking.
Using hobby alligator clamps, I securely held together the broken piece and the actuator, eliminating the need to handle the pieces manually. After securing them, I dabbed flux in the weld area and then applied heat until the metal changed color and then proceeded to apply the solder.
The stamped metal black part is the actuatorand here you can see the successful repair
The challenging part involved aligning the fractured piece onto the actuator. I had to carefully maneuver the clamps to ensure they were positioned correctly for the welding process. The actual soldering was the easy part and literally took seconds.
After a few minutes, I reattached the actuator. I then wound both the strike and time side of the movement and observed the action of the actuator as it went through the strike sequence. It worked!
I plan to keep the movement on the test stand for a couple of weeks or more but after running it for four days the weld has held.
Final thoughts
Tackling the repair of the actuator in this Junghans clock posed its challenges, particularly in aligning and securing the broken piece onto the actuator. Importantly, in any clock servicing, mistakes may occur, but it’s crucial to remember that there are ways to address and rectify many errors. Whether through additional adjustments, alternative techniques, or seeking guidance, the learning process in clock repair involves both successes and challenges.
In the end, the commitment to problem-solving enhances one’s skills, making each repair experience a valuable lesson in the pursuit of clock repair.
People often ask me about the value of their mechanical clock(s), but the reality is, that many of them turn out to be either common mantel clocks, clocks made in China, or clocks that have little resale value. Of course, there is the odd gem!
Expressing that the clock may not be worth as much as they believe it to be becomes a struggle for me. When I receive a letter from someone inquiring about the value of a recently obtained clock, I make an effort to provide an honest and straightforward response and so, I have come up with a 6-step guide on how to navigate the conversation with kindness and sensitivity.
Daniel Dakota wall clock, many of which are found in flea markets today
Determining the worth of a cherished family clock can be a very delicate matter. Say you have a good grasp of the value of antique/vintage clocks, and know what is desirable/collectible and what is not, you may find yourself in a position where you need to gently convey that a clock, particularly one treasured by a friend or family member, might be a clock with limited value.
How to navigate the conversation:
Acknowledge Its Sentimental Value: Start the conversation by recognizing the sentimental value attached to the clock. Express genuine appreciation for the emotional connection and especially the loving memories it holds. By starting with acknowledgment, you create a foundation for understanding.
Focus on Quality and Craftsmanship: Gradually steer the conversation towards the qualities that might contribute to a clock’s value. Emphasize the significance of craftsmanship, materials, and authenticity. Share your admiration for well-crafted clocks, and express curiosity about the specific details of the clock in question.
Share General Knowledgeabout clocks: Provide some general information about various types of clocks, highlighting the differences between common mass-produced clocks and those created with precision. Frame the conversation as an opportunity to share learning and avoid any language that might devalue their clock.
Suggest an Expert Appraisal: Float the idea of seeking a professional appraisal for a more accurate understanding of the clock’s value. Assure them that appraisers can offer insights into the historical significance and craftsmanship of the clock. This shifts the focus towards an objective evaluation.
Be Empathetic: Maintain empathy throughout the conversation. Acknowledge the emotional attachment and the significance the clock holds within their family. Reassure them that your intention is not to diminish its importance but to provide a comprehensive understanding.
Reframe the conversation: Encourage them to consider alternative perspectives on the clock’s worth, such as its role as a family heirloom, a beautiful piece of nostalgia, or an interesting decoration with a unique story. Highlight that the value of a clock is subjective and can vary based on individual preferences.
Inexpensive Chinese-made wall clock, circa 1960s
Navigating discussions about the value of a cherished family clock requires a delicate balance of empathy and information. Approaching the conversation with kindness helps maintain their emotional connection to the clock, acknowledging its sentimental significance within the family without being judgemental.
By gently introducing the notion that its financial value might not align with its emotional worth, you pave the way for a greater understanding.
Remember, a cherished clock is more than just its monetary value. It holds special meaning in the form of family history and sentimental connections, making it a priceless part of one’s heritage.
I stumbled upon this Arthur Pequegnat Moncton in an antique store located in Bloomfield, Ontario, Canada during a visit in 2018. Certain wall clocks from the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co., which operated in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada, between 1904 and 1941, are rare finds, making this particular piece appealing. The company, initially founded as Saas & Ford in 1903, was later acquired by Arthur Pequegnat in the following year.
The most recent photo, Jan 2024
Arthur Pequegnat clocks are renowned among Canadian collectors for their sturdy construction, robust movements, conservative designs, and patriotic nomenclature, often named after towns and cities in Canada. The Moncton, named after a city in New Brunswick, Canada is a testament to this tradition. Pequegnat produced a variety of clocks, ranging from mantel and parlour clocks to Mission, kitchen, gingerbread, tambour, wall, and floor models. The wall and hall clocks are the most desirable.
Beat scale
This Moncton clock, the seventh in my collection, is in fine condition. It features a 12-inch Arabic dial with bold numbers, attractive pierced spade hands, and a fumed quarter-sawn oak case. The clock stands at 35 inches high, with a hinged 16-inch oak bezel door revealing the dial and a 14 ½-inch glazed drop door. The clock’s patriotic ties are evident in its association with the Canadian National Railway hub in Moncton and so, some of the specially designed Monctons found their way into rail stations across Canada.
Two mainsprings power the 15-day movement
Based on the design of the lower valance this clock is a series II Monction which was produced from 1917 to 1941.
Despite its age, the clock maintains its charm, with the original dial glass displaying the expected “waviness.” However, some elements, such as the lower glass and retaining rails, appear to have to have been replaced early in the clock’s life. Unfortunately, the original label is missing. Minor imperfections include a scratch on the dial face (not visible from a distance) and a screw hole on the back panel. Screw holes are fairly common, as many of these clocks were firmly affixed to walls to ensure they remained in beat and functioned accurately.
The train showing the deadbeat escapement
The Moncton is a 15-day time-only clock with a unique double spring time-only movement and a Graham deadbeat escapement, highlighting its accuracy. The second hand is a particularly attractive feature. The clock runs at 84 beats per minute or 5040 beats per hour.
The clock closely resembles the Seth Thomas #2 in size and shape, offering an alternative with a spring-driven mechanism and a longer running cycle.
Obtaining this Moncton clock marked the culmination of an extensive search, as these timepieces are progressively harder to come by. The seller, having possessed it for around 1 ½ years, had no insights into its history, yet my speculation is that it might have served as an office clock for a good portion of its life.
The lower valance
Although the clock ran well when I received it I serviced it as a precautionary measure.
The kitchen area of our home
This clock occupies a prominent spot in the kitchen area of our home, serving as a daily reminder of the grandeur of wall clocks of the 1920s era.
For visual learners, this YouTube video provides a helpful summary of this post.
During the winter months, I teach part-time in a justice program at our local community college. The other day, I had a former student visit this blog and she commented on her admiration for one of my clocks, specifically a time and strike crystal regulator by Ansonia.
Thanks, Cate for allowing me the opportunity to profile this clock once again!
American-made 4-glass clocks are commonly referred to as crystal regulators
First a history of how I acquired the clock and what I know about it. While exploring an antique shop in Bloomfield, Ontario, my wife came across an intriguing find – an antique glass-cased brass time-and-strike American-made clock with an open Brocot escapement, manufactured by Ansonia.
This particular clock, featured in the 1905 Ansonia catalog under the name “Prism,” was priced at $29.00, a substantial sum for its time. It was the simplest design in the crystal regulator line and the lowest-priced model.
Collectors in the clock world frequently have discussions regarding the proper name for these clocks. Are they four-glass clocks or crystal regulators?
Ansonia Crystal Regulatorshowing the Brocot escapementwith jeweled pallets
A “four-glass clock” is a broader term referring to clocks with glass panels on all four sides, while a “crystal regulator” is a more specific subtype of mantel clock known for its transparent glass panels and often associated with high-quality craftsmanship. The primary differences lie in the design, purpose, and origin. The term “crystal regulator” is used specifically for American clocks that fall under the broader category of four-glass clocks, distinguished by transparent panels on all sides. Conversely, a French-made clock with a similar appearance is generally referred to simply as a four-glass clock.
The pendulum vials contain nickel slugs
While both types typically feature Brocot escapements, there’s a notable distinction in the pendulum design. Many four-glass French clocks incorporated mercury-filled pendulum vials, whereas American crystal regulators utilized nickel slugs within transparent vials.
American Crystal Regulators were essentially replicas of French regulators, boasting similar design elements such as a stylistic gong block, visible Brocot escapements, round movement plates, and beveled glass panels. However, they were an economical alternative to the French clock.
French regulators, crafted by high-profile makers like Japy, Marti, Vincenti, and Mougin, were highly esteemed and often included mercury pendulums. In the American market, Ansonia and Seth Thomas were prominent manufacturers of such clocks. They were not built to the higher standards of a French clock and were priced accordingly. Nonetheless, American Crystal Regulators have become sought-after by clock collectors.
American-made 4-glass clocks are commonly referred to as crystal regulators
The four glass panels of this clock are in very good shape, with only a small corner chip on one panel, which I discovered a few days after purchasing the clock. Fortunately, the chip is not visible from the front. The glass was likely damaged during a servicing session.
Overall, the clock is in good condition for its age and was made somewhere between 1905 and 1910. The brass, though tarnished, cleaned up nicely with the use of a cleaner. The brass was also lacquered to maintain its shine and protect it from deterioration.
On the bench and before disassembly
Upon acquiring the clock, it was not in running order, and my initial evaluation suggested that all it might require was a thorough cleaning and some bushing work. There was certainly a small amount of wear and the movement required 5 bushings, all on the front plate.
After disassembling, cleaning, and addressing wear, it ran without issue. Now, it’s one of several clocks that run weekly.
I would have to say it is one of the more unique clocks in my collection.
For years, my wife and I have been on the hunt for an elusive Arthur Pequegnat Hall clock, a prized possession among Canadian collectors. Recently, I stumbled upon what seemed like the jackpot—a seemingly authentic piece advertised for a mere $100. However, as I explored the deal further, doubts crept in, casting a shadow over my potential bargain.
Join me on this intriguing journey as we uncover the secrets of a clock that may not be what it initially appeared to be.
It certainly looks like a weight-driven clock
The clock is closely reminiscent of Pequegnat’s craftsmanship. It was a tempting find but a closer inspection raised eyebrows. The clock hands seemed out of place (for a Pequegnat), and the overall workmanship did not quite match the renowned Pequegnat build quality. Could this have been a misstep in our quest, or was there more to this story?
Undeterred I made an over-the-phone offer of $90 and embarked on a 90-minute journey to claim what could be a gem in disguise. The seller warned of a non-functioning clock but sweetened the deal by mentioning that it had weights—only to reveal later that the weights were, in fact, fake. On top of that, a spring-driven New Haven mechanical movement lay beneath the surface.
New Haven time and strike movement
The weight cans were empty shells, and the decent-quality ladder chains with acorn pull ends were crudely strung to mimic a weight-driven movement.
Brass weight shells
Further investigation unveiled a raised platform supporting the movement, yet no traces of a seat board that usually accompanies weight-driven mechanisms. The clock’s peculiarities extended to a tied cord on the strike lever, adding to the mystery. As questions piled up, it became clear that this clock’s origins were far from conventional.
The movement is stamped 27. This could be a date stamp but it is more likely the length of the pendulum in inches. The movement plates are pinned rather than held with screws or nuts suggesting an older square-aperture type New Haven movement. Judging from the build of the movement I would say that it is earlier than 1927. The heavy, solid wood case which comes apart in three sections is certainly just as old.
I removed the movement from its case and mounted it on a test stand. The movement runs at 72 bpm, not quite the 60 bpm one would typically expect from a hall clock and the slower beat rate explains the long pendulum rod.
The only plausible explanation was clear: I had purchased a kit clock, where an independently crafted case had been paired with a New Haven movement, dial face, hands, accessory weight cans, and ladder chains with acorn pull ends. It was likely a more cost-effective means of acquiring a tall case clock back in the day.
In its new location
Despite the oddities, I had, after all, secured the clock at a reasonable price. Now, armed with the knowledge of its peculiarities, I am content with it. Servicing the movement and restoring the case have been completed and after having stood in my work area for a couple of years it was time to move it to its permanent location.
And it looks pretty good! The combination of the separately crafted case with the New Haven movement, dial face, hands, and the accessory weight cans and ladder chains with pull ends came together quite well, offering an appealing and budget-friendly tall case clock.
The lesson in all of this is that in the world of clock collecting, sometimes unexpected discoveries and not value and authenticity are the ones that leave a lasting impression.
Antique wall clocks hold sentimental and aesthetic value, and preserving them often requires delicate restoration work. Purchasing replacement glass and securing it to a frame is one such restoration project.
Securing glass to the bezel of an antique clock can be achieved in several ways. It can be secured with tacks or clips or in the case of a metal bezel, brass tabs are soldered into the frame once the glass is in place. However, securing the glass to a wooden bezel can be more easily achieved by using Plaster of Paris.
Ansonia Extra Drop time-only wall clock(pendulum removed)
This versatile material, which can be found in any hardware store, when mixed with water, creates a durable and easy-to-use bonding plaster. In this step-by-step guide, we’ll walk you through the process of using Plaster of Paris to secure glass to the bezel of an antique wall clock.
Upon acquiring my Ansonia Extra Drop time-only clock, crafted in the early 1880s by the Ansonia Brass and Copper Company, I faced the challenge of its restoration as you can see in the following photo.
Trash or treasure?
Despite its seemingly hopeless condition, the clock retained its essential components, with the sole exception of the brass dial bezel. Although the movement was encrusted with dirt, it remained intact and presented a salvageable opportunity for restoration.
Time-only movement
After considerable sanding, rust removal, freeing of seized wheels, and subsequent bushing work, the movement miraculously began to run.
After a thorough cleaning
However, the glass was not securely fixed in its bezel and was temporarily held in place by tacks. I needed a more lasting solution to ensure the glass was firmly secured so, I opted for Plaster of Paris.
Except for the Plaster of Paris and the custom-cut glass, all the materials needed for this project are common items found in any household.
Materials Needed:
Plaster of Paris
Cold water
Mixing bowl
Stirring stick, spatula, putty knife
Correctly sized glass from a clock supplier
Paper towels or soft cloth
Sandpaper
Paint and brushes
Step 1: Detach the wood bezel from the clock case. Prepare the clock bezel by removing the glass and cleaning the bezel thoroughly. Use a soft cloth to wipe away any dust or debris. If the bezel has any imperfections, lightly sand the surface to create a smooth and clean area for the plaster.
Remove bezel
Step 2: Mix the Plaster of Paris. The instructions on the Plaster of Paris package call for a two-to-one mixture (two parts plaster to one part water) which is far too thin. I have found that three to one or more is optimal to achieve the right consistency. Mix the dry plaster with cold clean water in a bowl; it should be the firmness of a thick paste. Stir the mixture thoroughly until you achieve a smooth, lump-free consistency.
Step 3: Secure the glass onto the cleaned bezel. If the glass moves too much, use painter’s tape or masking tape to temporarily secure it in place. This will prevent the glass from shifting while applying the plaster.
No special tools are required
Step 4: Use a spatula or a one-inch putty knife (preferred) to carefully apply the plaster by spreading the mixture around the edges of the glass and onto the bezel. Ensure that the plaster is evenly distributed and covers the entire edge of the glass. Take your time to avoid air bubbles and uneven application. You have six to eight minutes of working time before the plaster begins to set.
Do not mix more material than can be used during the six to eight-minute period. However, if you have any left, simply find a hole in a nearby wall to patch.
Application of the plaster
Step 5: Once the plaster is applied, use a wet finger or a damp cloth to smooth and shape the edges. Pay close attention to the corners and make sure the plaster forms a neat, even seal between the glass and the bezel.
Step 6: Remove excess plaster before the plaster fully sets, by using a wet cloth and a putty knife to trim the edges. This will give the restoration a professional and polished appearance.
Allow to thoroughly dry
Step 7: Plaster of Paris hardens in about 30 minutes. Avoid disturbing the clock during this time to ensure a secure bond between the glass and the bezel.
Mixing acrylic water-based multi-surface paint
Step 8: Plaster of Paris is paintable.
Sanding the plaster before applying the paint
Touch up the bezel with paint. Aim to replicate the subtle hue of aged putty for a more authentic appearance.
Cure the Plaster of Paris for 24 hours before applying paint. Sand the rough areas with 200-grit sandpaper. Wipe down with a damp cloth. Apply the paint with an artist’s brush or equivalent. Allow the paint to dry completely before reassembling the clock.
Plaster of Paris in the bezel will contribute to a slight increase in weight, but the trade-off is enhanced rigidity.
The plaster is tinted to resemble aged putty
Using Plaster of Paris to secure the glass to the bezel of an antique wall clock is a straightforward and cost-effective process that, when done correctly, can not only keep the glass securely in place but will add to the clock’s appearance with the added benefit of enhancing the structural integrity of the glass within its bezel.
Following these steps will go a long way towards preserving the beauty of your antique clock for years to come.
As we welcome the New Year, antique clocks stand as silent witnesses to the passage of time, marking the transition from one chapter of our lives to the next.
Picture a room with an antique clock, its ticking ushering in the promise of a fresh start. Old clocks remind us that each second is a valuable gift, especially as we say goodbye to the old and embrace a new beginning.
On New Year’s Eve, the clock’s ticking becomes the soundtrack to reflecting on the ups and downs of the past year. Each tick seems to echo the shared heartbeat of collective experiences. Standing on the cusp of a new chapter, let’s carry forward the lessons learned, into the new year with its promises of growth, resilience, and the unwritten pages awaiting our stories.
The author
Amidst the celebrations and confetti, may the ticking of antique clocks symbolize the anticipation of new opportunities. Wishing you a Happy New Year, filled with hope, optimism, and the joy of being with loved ones.
Let me take a moment to thank you for supporting my blog. Your support not only fuels my passion but also plays a crucial role in shaping the content and direction of the blog. I’m grateful for the encouragement and look forward to continuing this journey with you.
One clock that holds a special meaning and one that I would like to add to my collection someday is the Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1, a single-weight eight-day clock. This clock is truly a rare find, though the prices I’ve encountered thus far are a bit steep for my budget.
Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1, photo taken at The Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River Ontario, Canada
The Arthur Pequegnat Story
The Arthur Pequegnat clock company was a formidable contender to American wall clock manufacturers. While their wall clocks often mirrored American models, some of their designs boasted a unique touch. The company favoured the heartwood of quarter-sawn white oak for their cases, showcasing the stunning visual appeal of this choice of wood.
The story of the Arthur Pequegnat clock company is one marked by distinction. Born in Switzerland in 1851, watchmaker Arthur Pequegnat immigrated to Berlin, Ontario, Canada, in 1874 with a substantial entourage of 18 family members. Initially establishing himself as a jeweler and watch repairman in the late 1870s, Arthur and his brother Paul operated a successful shop in Berlin, Ontario, by the mid-1880s. After a decade, the brothers pursued independent ventures, each managing prosperous jewelry shops in Southern Ontario.
In 1897, Arthur expanded his Berlin Jewelry shop to include bicycle manufacturing. However, as the demand for bicycles waned by 1904, he shifted focus back to the clock industry, manufacturing his clock movements at his Berlin Bicycle Manufacturing plant. Initially, wooden clock cases were sourced from local furniture makers, but over time, Arthur began crafting his own cases.
Despite Arthur’s passing in 1927, the company, guided by family members, persevered until 1941. The scarcity of brass during the war effort led to the company’s closure. The factory, where these exceptional timepieces were crafted, never produced another clock and was eventually demolished in 1964. Today, Kitchener pays tribute to this great clock manufacturer with a commemorative plaque.
The renaming of Berlin to Kitchener in 1916, amid World War I anti-German sentiments, serves as a helpful dating marker for Pequegnat clocks. Movements or dials marked “Berlin” indicate a clock dating to 1916 or earlier, while those marked “Kitchener” are from 1916 or later. Due to the long production life of many clocks, precise dating of Arthur Pequegnat clocks remains challenging.
For a fascinating journey into the world of Arthur Pequegnat clocks, The Canadian Clock Museum stands as a treasury, boasting the most extensive museum collection of Arthur Pequegnat clocks in Canada. Additionally, the Macdonald Museum in Middleton, Nova Scotia, offers a modest yet noteworthy collection of Pequegnat clocks—a worthwhile stop for those journeying through the Canadian province of Nova Scotia.
The Regulator #1
The Regulator #1 is frequently likened to the Seth Thomas Regulator #2. While the Seth Thomas counterpart found widespread use in offices and rail stations across America, the Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1, though less prolific, met the demands of many businesses in Canada.
The dial removed showing the movement
Although sought after by collectors the Regulator #1 has interesting technical quirks according to Canadian clockmaker John Plewes, author of Repariring & Restoring Pendulum Clocks. Plewes cites three design issues with the clock. Two are minor quibbles but the third involves the weight. Despite its similarity to the Seth Thomas Regulator #2, it requires a heavier weight (1/2 lb more) to drive it reliably. A lighter weight such as the one found on the ST#2 causes the clock to stop after a short period particularly when the minute hand is rising. The hands are simply too heavy for the clock as they influence the force applied to the train.
Plewes, therefore, takes issue with Arthur Pequegnat’s claim that the #1 is the “finest office clock made”.
Lower section of the clock case
Regardless, the clock is highly sought after among Canadian collectors, and commands a premium, often doubling the price of similarly styled clocks from well-known American counterparts such as the Seth Thomas Regulator #2.
During the Christmas season, there’s a special charm to antique clocks, each holding onto time’s precious moments. Imagine a room lit by soft twinkling lights, featuring a tall case clock as a proud symbol of craftsmanship spanning generations.
Tall case clock C.1848
As we get into the Christmas spirit, these old clocks go beyond being mere decorations; they connect us to the past, marking the holidays of days gone by.
Lego train set
The clock’s ticking signals the arrival of Christmas morning, a shared experience through the ages. This Christmas, let’s take a moment to appreciate the history held by these antique treasures. They’re more than just artifacts; they have witnessed the laughter, love, and warmth that define the season. If they could talk!
Decorated andwaiting for gifts
Amid carols and a crackling fireplace, may the ticking of antique clocks resonate with the essence of togetherness. Wishing you and your loved ones a Merry Christmas filled with the charm of past times and the anticipation of treasured moments yet to come.
Thank you for supporting my blog; it serves as a meaningful gift from you to me. Your support not only fuels my passion but also plays a crucial role in shaping the content and direction of the blog. I’m grateful for the encouragement and look forward to continuing this journey with you.
Having a clock serviced and letting it sit without running for long periods can have varying effects, influenced by factors like the environment it’s in. If the clock is stored in a clean, dust-free, and controlled humidity setting, it may require less frequent running. Considerations such as the presence of pets, whose hair can find its way into delicate clock mechanisms, dusty homes, and humid conditions play a role.
In controlled museum environments, clocks are inspected according to a strict schedule
Consider the indoor environment when storing clocks. High concentrations of indoor pollutants, such as particulates, tobacco smoke, and animal dander, can affect clock mechanisms. Proper sealing of access doors, replacing broken dial glass, and keeping clocks away from dusty or humid areas can help preserve their condition.
Storing your clock in an unheated attic, for instance, with the anticipation of having it operational at a later date, is a recipe for potential disaster.
Applying a generous amount of lubricant spray on a clock’s movement during extended storage is not advisable. This practice can lead to serious issues because excess lubricant will attract dust and debris, forming a sticky residue over the entire movement. Instead, a moderate and targeted application of a lubricant intended for clock pivot holes is recommended to ensure proper functioning without negative side effects.
A general recommendation is to check and service your clock(s) on a 3-4-year schedule. During these checks, assess the condition of the clock, add oil where necessary, and note any signs of wear. This approach can keep your clock or your clock collection in good shape with minimal intervention. If pets are present, more frequent inspections may be necessary.
There are occasions when a clock requires complete servicing
For a clock that’s been inactive for a year or more, refreshing the oil before running it is advisable, especially if there’s little or no evidence of oil in the pivot holes. Quality clock oil, designed for this purpose such as Keystone pivot oil, typically doesn’t break down over a year. If a clock is well-oiled before storage but not over-oiled, it should remain in good condition during this period.
Checking for the presence of sufficient oil in the pivot holes
It should be noted that to ensure proper oiling, the movement must be taken out of its case. Of course, the hands must be removed as the first step. However, for the majority of clocks, particularly those crafted in the USA, releasing the movement from its case typically involves taking out four slotted screws.
Some collectors choose to run clocks intermittently, perhaps once every two or three months, to keep the wheels moving without excessive wear. This is particularly true for specialized clocks that may be challenging to service, to extend the time between required maintenance.
Ultimately, proactive care and regular checks can prevent clocks from deteriorating to a point where repairs become costly. Taking these measures ensures that your cherished vintage or antique clock will provide years of reliable service.
The Seth Thomas Clock Company, renowned for its long history dating back to the early 19th century, produced a variety of clock movements over the years, and among them is the Type 89 movement found in this clock.
Despite the absence of a specific year stamp, the clock’s design and construction suggest a manufacturing date in the mid to late 1930s. Upon initial inspection, it was evident that the clock was not functioning, a common issue with old clocks that have not run in years.
From afar the wood finish is striking
Typically, clock movements face challenges related to low power output caused by wear and tear over time. The gradual deterioration of clocks during years of operation is often attributed to factors such as dirt accumulation, inadequate lubrication, and the lack of proper adjustments.
Although dirt accumulation can persist in a movement, causing friction and wear, I decided to see if I could get the clock to run. The process involved removing the hour and minute hands, releasing four screws securing the movement to the front of the case, removing the strike block, and taking the movement out of its case.
Type 89 movement
An initial inspection revealed no visible issues with either the time or the strike side. Both mainsprings were found to be wound tight and seemingly ceased, likely due to the accumulation of glue-like dirt between the coils that will prevent the clock from running.
Seth Thomas time and strike 8-day movement
To reduce tension on the mainsprings and provide the necessary energy for the clock to start running, an unwinding of the mainspring was performed using a let-down set. Oil was also applied to the pivots, as a temporary solution. Mixing new and old oil is never a good idea as a harmful abrasive paste is produced that could accelerate wear on the pivots and bushing holes. The plan, therefore, was not to run the clock for an extended period but merely to see if it could run.
While relaxing the mainsprings enabled the movement to run strongly, an issue persisted on the strike side, necessitating further investigation. Despite this, no major issues were anticipated, and the next steps will involve disassembly, thorough cleaning, any remediation, reassembly, and testing.
But first, let’s look at the case.
The case
This clock caught my eye at a thrift shop in Renfrew, Ontario, Canada, primarily due to its attractive appearance with what seemed to be rosewood veneer. Intrigued and encouraged by the reputable Seth Thomas trademark, I decided to make the purchase, especially given the appealing price.
However, upon closer inspection at home, I discovered that what I initially believed to be genuine rosewood was actually a thin layer of faux wood wrapping, and to my disappointment, some of it was peeling off in a couple of very visible areas, the worst by the bezel catch.
The worn and peeling section is adjacent to the bezel catch
There might be speculation about whether the movement was reinstalled in a newer case, but my inclination is that this is how it originally left the factory. What the Seth Thomas company might have considered new and improved and would likely fool most consumers was but a cheap imitation.
It is clearly a cost-cutting measure rather than a later modification. Many clock companies faced financial difficulties during the Depression Years of the 1930s, leading them to seek cost-saving measures but honestly, this discovery is rather disheartening.
Nevertheless, the clock holds value because of the movement, which still has many years left. Join me later as we dismantle the clock movement and address any required repairs.
For 27 years, a piano made in Montreal, Canada in 1911 occupied a silent corner of our living room, a relic of bygone days. Years ago we inherited the piano when my wife’s parents downsized from their larger home to a smaller one. They did not want it then and we do not want it now!
Willis upright piano C.1911
Over the years the dust settled on its keys, it was seldom played and its once-grand presence faded into the background of our lives. In the fall of 2023, we made a decision to repurpose the room it was in and it and other pieces of furniture unfortunately had to go.
Despite numerous attempts over several months to find it a new home or a willing buyer, the piano remained an unwanted fixture, a stubborn reminder of the past. We contemplated tuning the piano and refinishing the cabinet, but the restoration far exceeded its actual value. And then, what use would it serve!
The beginning stage of dismantling the piano
Faced with the inevitability of its disposal, we decided to dismantle the piano, a task that turned out to be more challenging than expected. Disassembling it isn’t as straightforward as using a sledgehammer to smash it apart; it requires a systematic approach, considering which parts to remove first to access other sections. And, its considerable weight made the task of shifting it even a few inches from the wall a truly herculean effort.
As we hammered, pried apart, and unscrewed the piano over the course of four days, we expected to feel a mix of emotions, but nostalgia didn’t hit us as we thought it would.
The piano, once the center of musical gatherings, was scattered into hundreds of pieces destined for new purposes. We salvaged pieces of the aged mahogany veneered wood that would be useful for future projects.
Sections are set aside for future repurposing
All metal parts, the cast iron frame, piano wire, nuts, bolts, screws (and there are a lot), and every other bit of metal were donated to a local recycler who happily came by with his aged pickup truck to collect the pieces. What we could not keep or donate was sent to the curb as trash.
There are more parts than you can imagine on an old piano
Among the salvaged wood, a particular piece caught our attention. It was perfect as a clock shelf and it required no trimming or cutting.
A reclaimed shelf
As we affixed the reclaimed wood to the basement wall, our shelf now held several antique clocks, each with its own unique character. The irony of a 110-year-old discarded piano giving life to a shelf that now held clocks of varying ages, some younger than the shelf itself was not lost on us.
Displayed on the shelf from left to right is a Jerome & Company round top, a mantel clock from the Hamburg American Clock Company (HAC), a Seth Thomas marriage (the movement (ST) and case are from different makers), an E.N. Welch clock with alarm function, and another HAC from Germany. All are 8-day time and strike clocks and in top running condition.
Five mantel clocks
In the basement’s hushed atmosphere, the clocks ticked in sync with the faint echoes of the piano’s past, forming a connection between the past and present.
In the heart of North End Halifax, on December 6, 1917, a Junghans Crispi clock fell off a wall in a house on Princess Court. Unbeknownst to it, this simple clock would become a silent witness to one of the worst man-made disasters in Canadian history – the Halifax Explosion.
The cloud produced by the explosion
As the Belgian relief ship Imo collided with the French munitions vessel Mont-Blanc, a catastrophic event unfolded in Halifax’s harbour. The explosion at 9:04:35 a.m. reshaped the landscape, claiming 2,000 lives with 9,000 injured, and left an indelible mark on Halifax’s history.
Since some case parts were missing, a catalog image of the clock served as a helpful referenceHow the clock was received
Fast forward to 2017, a century later, and the remnants of that clock found their way into my hands. The following journey is about a box of clock parts, carefully preserved by a family for generations, passing through to a new owner to be revived and displayed as a connection to history.
The movement was very dirty but intact
The task of reviving the clock, and turning it into a connection to history is a process that took over two months.
The restoration unfolded step by step. The clock parts were carefully cleaned, new parts were fashioned, and the correct materials were found to restore the Junghans Crispi wall clock to renewed glory. The hands, frozen since that fateful day, started moving again – a symbol of human resilience.
The restored Junghans Crispi wall clock was finally unveiled in late 2017 and has been ticking away and gracing the wall of our dining room ever since then. Its polished wooden frame, bold brass accents, and rhythmic ticking resonated with the shared history of a city and a clock that refused to succumb to the ravages of time.
As we mark the 107th anniversary of the Halifax Explosion, my Junghans Crispi wall clock stands as a symbol of resilience, remembrance, and the power of restoration.
In the quiet corners of North End Halifax, it tells a story that transcends time – a tale of survival, renewal, and the enduring spirit of a community that rebuilt itself from that terrible moment.
During the early stages of the Industrial Revolution, a peculiar practice persisted well into the 20th century. This era predated the availability of affordable and reliable alarm clocks, leading to a reliance on professions that we may find unconventional today.
One such profession was that of the “knocker-upper.” The primary responsibility of the knocker-upper was to ensure people arrived at work punctually. This occupation thrived in the industrial hubs of England and Scotland, where many individuals couldn’t afford personal timekeeping devices.
This practice lasted well into the 1940s
Knocker-uppers were often women, the elderly, or occasionally police constables seeking extra income. Armed with a long stick, they would tap on bedroom windows and swiftly move on to the next client without lingering. Some employed alternative methods such as rattles, soft hammers, or even pea shooters to rouse their clients from slumber.
An early 20th-century Seth Thomas alarm clock
The challenge for the knocker-upper was to have as many customers as possible in as small a circle as possible and to cover ground as quickly as possible in the morning. It became a sprint race in the morning and the more agile you were the more customers you had.
The service costs but pennies per customer per week.
Today if someone knocked on our window in the morning you would be understandably alarmed but back in the old days it was the only way workers could be roused in the morning so that they could get to work on time.
Of course, the question remains; who knocked up the knocker uppers?
In this post, I describe an unusual issue when relocating my mini Vienna Regulator clock. Out of all my clocks, this one tends to be the most sensitive when I move it to a different location in my home. I’ve previously shared my experiences with this clock because it’s not the first time I’ve encountered issues.
Medium-sized Vienna Regulator C.1870
Exploring a brief history of Vienna Regulators provides insight into why this clock is a significant milestone in horological evolution.
The Vienna Regulator clock, also known as the Vienna wall clock, is a type of precision pendulum clock that originated in Vienna, Austria.
The style and craftsmanship of Vienna Regulator clocks are often associated with exceptional quality and precision.
The development of the Vienna Regulator clock was influenced by several factors. One of the key factors was the rising demand for accurate timekeeping during the Industrial Revolution. Vienna, as a center of craftsmanship and technological innovation, played a vital role in meeting this demand.
Vienna regulators are distinctive and typically have a slender wooden case, which houses the pendulum and the clock mechanism. This design allowed for a longer pendulum, resulting in greater accuracy. The movement was typically attached to a frame on the backboard of the case by a keyhole design which allowed the movement to be lifted and removed from the case for servicing. The pendulum was often enclosed in a glass door or window, allowing the movement to be admired from the front and side panels while protecting it from dust.
Vienna Regulator dial
The cases, made of various types of wood such as walnut, oak, or mahogany, were often finely crafted with decorative inlays, carvings, or veneers. The clocks featured a white enamel or porcelain dial, usually adorned with Roman numerals and ornate hands.
The movement of the Vienna Regulator clock was powered by weights suspended on cables or cords. The weights (up to three) were typically wound up once a week, providing the necessary power for the clock to run accurately. While the majority of these clocks were designed to operate as 8-day runners, some were specifically engineered to run for 30 days and longer.
During the 19th century, the Vienna Regulator clock underwent several design changes. The earlier models, known as “Vienna Regulators of the Biedermeier period,” were characterized by a simpler and more classical style. Later models, influenced by the emerging Victorian and Rococo revival styles, featured more elaborate ornamentation and decorative elements.
While the popularity of the Vienna Regulator clock declined in the early 20th century with the advent of more modern clocks, it remains valued by collectors and enthusiasts today.
It’s also worth noting that the term “Vienna Regulator” typically denotes a clock style commonly manufactured in Germany and Austria from approximately 1804 to the end of the 19th century, even if it wasn’t necessarily crafted in Vienna.
But let’s go on.
What is making this clock stop?
During an unusually cold winter day, a substantial plumbing problem caused significant leakage from a ceiling pipe in our family room. To address the damage, we had to replace the pipes and patch the ceiling. During the repairs, we decided to refresh the room’s decor, taking the opportunity to make a few changes. As part of the update, we moved our Vienna Regulator clock from upstairs to the family room to showcase its elegance.
After running flawlessly for a few days, the clock stopped. I checked the clock’s beat, adjusted it, and confirmed its proper vertical orientation. This resulted in the clock running for a few hours before encountering another stoppage.
Suspecting a tangled cable issue which could cause a loss of power to the movement, I took the movement out of its case and carefully rewound the cable onto its take-up reel but this did not resolve the issue.
Could the problem be related to wear? I removed the movement from its case and disassembled it, inspecting for any signs of wear including bent arbors, or damaged or worn teeth. However, I found no such issues. In fact, the movement looked very clean, and the oil in the pivots appeared to be in excellent condition.
Vienna regulator movement, very clean with no issues
After reinstalling the movement into its case and reattaching the weight and pendulum, I noticed a slight wobble in the pendulum, that was not visible from afar.
Out comes the movement which consisted of removing the weight and unhooking it from the frame posts. Upon reexamining the movement, everything appeared to be in proper order. In most clock movements the suspension spring is physically attached to the movement. In clocks of this type, the pendulum rod is attached by the suspension spring to the backboard frame, and there could be a tendency to overlook inspecting the suspension spring as the cause of the stoppage.
This time, the problem was identified as a slightly kinked suspension spring. Lacking a spare, instead of replacing it, I removed the pendulum assembly from its case and used the shaft section of a small screwdriver to smooth out the kink. A temporary fix, to be sure, till I source the correct spring for this clock.
Some clocks can be temperamental and a clock that works fine in one location may not work in another. However, it would appear that moving the clock from one location to another caused a deformity in the suspension spring. So, the fault was mine.
After smoothing out the suspension spring it runs better
My other Vienna Regulator keeps ticking without a hitch, unlike this clock which tends to act up when moved. It’s running fine now and will stay at its new location which is back upstairs.
Dropping in Facebook Marketplace from time to time is interesting because there’s always the possibility that an unknowing seller might list an antique clock without realizing its true value. Occasionally, I strike gold, however, the majority of listings mainly feature commonplace antique clocks, alongside an overwhelming abundance of quartz-driven ones.
Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock
On any typical day, it’s a common occurrence for me to find more than half a dozen 31-day clocks available for sale.
What is a 31-day clock
A 31-day clock is a type of mechanical clock that runs for about a month before it needs to be wound up again. It has a pendulum that swings back and forth to regulate the time. The name 31-day clock comes from the fact that it can operate for 31 days without stopping, but some clocks may run for a few days more or less depending on their level of wear.
A Chinese-made 31-day clockconverted to a quartz movement
A significant number of these clocks are designed as spring-driven time-and-strike models, meaning they strike every half-hour announcing the time on the hour.
Most 31-day clocks originate from China or Korea, with trade names such as Citizen (not to be confused with the watch company), Daniel Dakota, Alaron, Olympia, Sabre, Beacon, and well, the list goes on. Directional arrows near the winding arbours typically give away the origin of the clock, with a common association being Chinese or Korean manufacture.
The hallmark features of a 31-day movement are powerful mainsprings and thin plates
Acquiring a vintage 31-day wall clock manufactured in China or Korea will not set you back very much. These clocks were and still are widely available since they were produced in massive quantities during the 1960s through to the 1980s. It is a safe bet that a vast majority, around 99%, have never seen the inside of a clock repair shop. Their inexpensive movements appear remarkably resilient, enduring for long periods and finally meeting an unceremonious end in the trash or, popping up on online for-sale sites such as Facebook Marketplace.
Clockmakers typically prefer to avoid servicing these clocks and may encourage you to swap out the mechanical movement for a quartz one if the clock is not functioning. This is primarily due to the powerful and potentially hazardous mainsprings in 31-day clocks, which make working on them a risky task. Secondly, these clocks have such low value that any maintenance, even basic oiling, will cost many times more than the clock is actually worth. Thirdly, replacement parts are impossible to find and any repairs necessitate salvaging components from similar movements. Indeed, converting them to quartz movements is not such a bad idea.
The Distinction Between 31-day and 30-day clock
31-day clocks should not be confused with antique 30-day clocks, such as those produced over a century ago by companies like Seth Thomas, Welch, Waterbury, and makers of 30-day Vienna Regulators.
The latter boasted sturdy movements with deadbeat escapements, large cases, and dials, and a significant number were powered by weights. These clocks were more accurate than the average domestic clock of the time and were often found in public places such as post offices, libraries, business offices, retail establishments, and factories. Unlike 31-day clocks, collectors find these clocks desirable.
If you are fortunate enough to come across a 31-day clock at a remarkably low price, it’s important to temper expectations regarding its resale value. Despite being budget-friendly acquisitions, these clocks typically don’t appreciate significantly in value, and it’s wise to view them more as charming additions to your collection rather than lucrative investments.
In the past two weeks, my focus has been directed towards the servicing of a Junghans roundtop mantel clock. This particular time and strike mantel clock is the Hunsruck model manufactured in the second half of 1913 (stamped B13 on the rear plate). For first impressions and background information about the clock itself, you can go here. For a description of mainspring servicing, you can find that article here.
Junghans Hunsruck mantel clock C.1913
During this part of the servicing process, my attention will be focused on bushing work, reassembly (with some tips), final testing, and addressing the condition of the case.
Back of movement showing strike block and pendulum
My initial assessment revealed that the movement was generally in good condition. While some previous work had been done on it, limited to a basic cleaning, no substantial repairs were evident. Nevertheless, a conspicuous buildup of dirty oil was observed in most pivot holes, underscoring the need for a good cleaning.
Avoid using a taper pin for this lever (see arrow), as it would result in the lever being excessively tight; opt for a thin wire instead
Upon closer inspection, elongated pivot holes in three locations told me that new bushings were necessary: specifically, the third wheel time side, back plate, and both the front and back plates of the star wheel. The star wheel runs off the count wheel and it is the star points that move the tail that activates the hammer to produce the strike on the half hour.
The pivot holes were carefully cleaned out using toothpicks as the first step in the cleaning process. Subsequently, I examined the pivots on each wheel by running a fingernail across them to detect any ridges or imperfections, and they appeared to be in excellent condition. I also verified the integrity of the pins in each lantern pinion. Upon confirming that I had addressed all that I could at this point, the next phase involved cleaning the components in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Once everything was out of the ultrasonic cleaner all components were thoroughly dried to remove all traces of residual moisture.
Now to address the worn pivot holes.
A centering bit ensures an accurate cut
If you are accustomed to handling traditional time-and-strike American clocks, the small pivots on these German clocks might cause some unease. The diameter of each bushing measures just 2.47mm (Bergeon bushing size), whereas conventional bushings for an American clock are often 3.47mm and larger (again, Bergeon-sized bushings).
In the above photo, I use a centering bit to ensure a precise cut into the plate so that the bushing can be seamlessly inserted.
To ensure a precise fit the newly installed bushings are reamed using a cutting broach, followed by smoothing with a broach and cleaning with a toothpick. After each new bushing is in place, the wheels are test-fitted to ensure they spin freely plus sufficient end shake.
Given the delicate nature of the pivots, handling each one requires careful attention, as a broken pivot and its repair can be a challenging and intricate task on a German clock.
After the bushings are installed the movement is reassembled. Before attaching the back plate, all wheels, and levers are positioned in their respective locations.
Wheels and levers are ready for the rear place
To avoid having to remove the back plate to make further adjustments after assembly addressing four specific items will ease the process;
the count lever paddle must be in one of the deep slots of the count wheel,
the cam lever must be on the flat section of the cam,
the hammer tail must be positioned between two points of the star wheel (otherwise the tail contacts a star point, and the hammer will be left in the raised position preventing further striking)
and the pin on the warning wheel must be in the 12 o’clock position to catch the warning lever.
In my experience, the hammer tail contacting one of the star points is the most common of annoyances and calls for parting the plates. It is worth noting that the levers on clock movements of this specific type are not adjustable so, bending a lever to fit is not possible.
Pivot locator
Utmost attention must be paid to moving the pivots carefully into their respective holes as the risk of a broken pivot is very high at this point in the process. A “pivot locator” is an indispensable tool for safely moving pivots into their holes while working on the movement.
The pendulum is placed such that it can be seen through the front glassportal
Prior to mounting on the test stand, the movement is oiled using Keystone pivot oil. As with oiling any clock, the maxim is “less is more”.
The testing phase is one of the most crucial parts of the process, providing a chance to make minor adjustments and regulate the movement. I routinely ensure that the movement goes through at least two or three operational cycles while mounted on the test stand. Once I am satisfied that the movement is running well and needs no further remediation it goes back into its case.
While the movement is being tested I generally address any issues regarding the case. Little needed to be done to this attractive oak-cased roundtop and a general cleaning with Murphy’s soap and an application of paste wax preserved its patina while sprucing up its appearance.
Servicing an antique clock not only respects its history but also keeps its mechanism working for future generations to appreciate.
Every time I climb the stairs to the upper level of our residence, I find myself in awe of the clock perched on the landing. Crafted in 1848, it likely ticked away the hours for years in an upper-middle-class Scottish household, possibly owned by a farmer or landholder.
Scottish tall-case clock, Circa 1848
These old tall case clocks, which were built to withstand the test of time, stand in contrast to the throwaway culture of the modern world. They evoke a connection to a slower-paced past, providing a sense of calm.
A prominent dial
In November 2023 my wife and I traveled to Halifax, Nova Scotia (Canada) for an overnight stay and dinner out at a lovely Italian restaurant on Spring Garden Road followed by a play at the Neptune Center for Performing Arts.
La Frasca restaurant, Halifax, Nova Scotia
Upon our check-in at Lord Nelson Hotel and Suites, I observed an old stately clock tucked into a corner and commented to the front desk about the surprise of encountering a fully functional antique tall-case clock in a hotel lobby.
Unknown tall case clock
It’s noteworthy that this establishment, renowned for its classic allure, is recognized for serving a clientele that leans towards the more mature demographic, so an old antique clock did not seem out of place.
The clock face shows a three-train movement
Beyond their practical function, old clocks captivate us with their craftsmanship, and historical significance. They serve as links to the past, reflecting the artistry, engineering, and societal values of bygone eras. The mechanical simplicity offers a stark contrast to our complicated fast-paced digital age.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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