This is Part II of a three part series on restoring this beautiful German FMS Mauthe (Friedrich Mauthe Schwenningen) wall clock. Part I can be found here. Part III, in a week or so, will cover case repairs and refinishing.
This attractive antique Victorian style German FMS Mauthe wall clock was purchased locally from a family that once lived in the town of Parrsboro. Nova Scotia over 100 years ago.
Why would someone solder the minute hand to the arbour
In this post I will discuss servicing of the time and strike movement.
As I began taking off the dial I noticed that the minute hand had been soldered to the arbour. Not only that, it was in backwards. A taper pin should secure the minute hand, not solder. Using a butane torch I freed the hand. Once the hands are off, removing the dial requires pulling 4 pins from the support posts. Following that, the bottom rail, which is secured by two machine screws, is removed. Now to work on the movement.
Very dirty movement, in need for a good cleaning
Before we do that, let’s look at the numbers on the back plate. 105 is the number of beats per minute, 42 is the length of the pendulum rod in centimeters. The number 55006 is a patent number which was issued to Heinrich Kielmann (Ruhrort/Rhein) in 1890/1 and concerned the method of hanging the pendulum. The number 20934 refers to a production run but I have no idea what date is assigned to that number. The Adler gong has the FMS eagle on the block and from my research the eagle was placed on gongs going forward in 1898. Therefore, the clock is from about 1898 – 1905.
Coiled gong and gong block by Adler
The movement has not been serviced in some time. Expecting to see a significant amount of wear, I was pleased to discover the movement in generally good condition.
The pallets had little or no wear and the escape wheel likewise looked good. The pivots had very little wear and polished up nicely. There were 4 pivot holes that needed some degree of attention. I decided that two on the strike side were not so bad that they could wait but two others were quite worn, the centre wheel, front and the motion works wheel just above it. This is expected as these wheels carry most of the load from the mainsprings.
2 of 3 Bushings were installed for these pivotsThe count wheel strike and motion works
After a 30 minute cleaning cycle the solution was quite dirty, in fact so dirty that I disposed of the solution
I take plenty of photos as an aid in helping me relocate the movement parts on reassembly. Sometimes the wheels on the strike and time side look similar. In the case of this movement there was no confusing which side the wheels should go.
I disassembled the movement and placed the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner. After a 30 minute cycle the solution was very dirty, in fact so dirty that I disposed of the solution (it is biodegradable). Reassembly was straightforward as most of the adjustments to the strike side occur outside the plates, unlike a typical American time and strike movement where there a myriad of levers and helper springs that seem to pop out when you you are trying your best to get everything set up between the plates.
As a side note, Mauthe did make time and strike movement with the count wheel located between the plates and with conventional wire levers.
The only critical adjustment is the stop wheel which has to be in the correct position otherwise the strike will not function correctly. Trial and error is needed to get this right but I set it correctly on the first attempt.
Stop pin on the strike train; positioning the stop pin upon reassembly is critical
Unfortunately, I do not have a test stand tall enough for this movement and the case was used to test the movement. The movement slides in and out on a set of rails making it relatively easy to make the necessary adjustments.
Cleaned, reassembled and installed in the case for testing.
One issue, a broken suspension spring. Could have been my handling of the movement or it was already broken. Nevertheless, my order from the supplier arrived and the spring has been replaced. Most clockmakers would agree that it is a good practice to replace the suspension spring as they weaken with age.
During testing the strike side was sluggish and would not engage from time to time. I attributed this to an enlarged pivot hole on the star wheel, back plate one of the two I noticed earlier. The new bushing was a very small #7 Bergeon at 0.80 mm (inside dimension) with very little margin for error. With the new bushing (a total of 3 for the movement) the strike side was still sluggish. After taking the movement apart again I found a slightly bent arbour on the second wheel of the strike side which I fdiscovered when I attached it to my lathe. Using a hollowed punch tool I straightened it out.
Broken suspension spring
The reassembled movement was oiled and mounted in the clock case. The recoil escapement is adjustable and a slight tweaking of the verge corrected the beat. After a few frustrating adjustments exacerbated by a bent arbour, the movement is running well after servicing.
Next, I will cover case refinishing for this fine old clock.
NOTE: After completing this project I designed and built an extension for my movement test stand to allow me to work on movements with long pendulums such as this one.
This is the fourth and final article on this curious and somewhat homely Waterbury time and strike schoolhouse clock. I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. Now that I have it what do I do with it.
It is a clock that had been passed down within the family and as you can see it went through a significant change. I thought about next steps and considered advice from friends and family. It came down to three options:
1) Do absolutely nothing, preserve it as-is and store it in a closet,
2) Discard the case out, buy a donor case and install the parts I have in the new case or,
3) Preserve it, that is, not change it in a significant way but make some cosmetic changes and have it run reliably.
The drop door, movement and other things
The next photo shows the clock after the glass bezel was installed, the dial face was refreshed and the case was given a coat of dark walnut stain (the number “IIII” has a reflection from an overhead light). You can still see the plywood and the nail heads but my objective was to clean it up, refresh and preserve the character of the homemade case.
Dark walnut stain, dial re-freshened and glass installed
The access drop door:
The clock requires an access door on the short drop, the opening is unsightly. As you can see in the photo above the cut-out is rough and a door will effectively hide it. Making a n access door is a simple project and will enhance the appearance of the case.
I have an old Ogee clock case that I use for any wooden parts required for clock projects. I cut a 1/4 inch piece and fashioned the door panel using a paper template for the dimensions. There are two panels which make up an inner and outer door sections.
First, I used paper as a template to draw the new door.
The template is a sheet of paper
I cut the inner and outer door panels using a table saw and sanded all sides.
Inner and outer door, cut and sanded
Next, using masking tape I taped one piece to the other. I positioned my hand in the drop area so the inner piece would be aligned correctly with the door panel.
Glue applied to both panels
Once the panels were aligned I removed the masking tape, gave the panels a final sanding, then applied yellow carpenters glue to both panels. Hide glue would have been used originally but the goal for this little project is to hide the crude cutout, not to replicate woodworking methods at the time it was constructed. Yellow glue is appropriate for this project; it is stronger and has a high bonding strength.
The two panels are clamped together.
Next, a dark walnut stain was applied to the door panel to match the case. Installing the door to the case required two small brass hinges mounted on the right side. For the pull handle, I decided to go with a wood knob stained in dark walnut.
Drop installed and stained to match case
Final steps:
A small piece of wood was affixed to the inside of the dial cutout to ensure that the hinge screws had something to bite into. Following this, the glass bezel door was attached.
Block on left is glued in place to screw the door hinge to the case
Next are dummy slotted wood screws for the bezel holes, basically to conceal the holes.
The drilled holes in the bezel are unsightlyThe door project is almost complete, door pull missing in photo
Having sorted out the striking issue the movement is now installed in the case.
My thoughts on this project:
Prior to the first pictures I saw, I had visions of a clock that needed a little work to restore it. When I discovered that the case was homemade it was a disappointment. After giving it much thought it seemed that the most appropriate course of action was to preserve what I had.
Overall the cost of bringing this clock back to running condition and refreshing the case was minimal. Was it worth it? Yes! It is now complete, it shows better and it will tell an interesting story for years to come.
It may not be the prettiest clock on the wall but it will be a great conversation piece and after 60 years it is functional and it will finally tell the time. I can only imagine my grandfather standing under the clock, comparing the time with his pocket watch and deciding if he should make just one small adjustment.
This is Part III of a 4-part series. I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. Now that I have it what do I do with it.
I have devoted two previous articles to this curious and somewhat homely Waterbury time and strike schoolhouse clock. It is a clock that had been passed down within the family and it has had a hard life. Along the way it has undergone some changes, not all of them pretty. I thought about the next steps for this clock and considered advice from friends and family. It came down to three options:
1) Do absolutely nothing, preserve it as-is and store it in a closet,
2) Discard the case out, buy a donor case and install the parts I have in the new case or,
3) Preserve it, that is, not change it in a significant way but make some cosmetic changes and have it run reliably.
Option three it is.
At one time the original case was painted yellow with red trim. which is probably why it was discarded
Restoration or preservation? The restoration process consists of performing clock repair procedures on the movement as well as cosmetically restoring the dial, the case and its wooden and metal components using period procedures. Proper restorations do not change the clock’s functionality, appearance or value. Restoration of a valued clock is a serious business as many owners are emotionally attached to a clock for various reasons.
In this situation the movement can be restored and the other hardware cleaned up, however, the case is not original and was likely made 40, or 50 years ago which is why this project is part restoration and part preservation. Servicing the movement, putting the clock in running condition and making some cosmetic changes is my objective for this project.
This is what the clock looked like when I first received it.
First photo of the clock sent by my cousin
It has a homemade plywood case though it has all the essential mechanical parts. There is no dial glass. The brass bezel would have been hinged and perhaps the hinge broke and was discarded. The bezel was then screwed into the plywood.
The first step is the movement. The parts arrived from Perrin and I went to work on the movement. The movement is a Waterbury time and strike with a patent date of Sept 22, 1874. It was dirty as expected and there was some rust but it cleaned up nicely.
BeforeAnd after servicing
The movement required 5 bushings at T2F, T2R, S2F, S2R, and S3F. As always it takes me more than one try to get the strike side functioning correctly. During testing I noticed that the strike side was sluggish. A tight bushing, bent pivot, insufficient end shake? I will know when I take it apart and take a second look.
Walnut stain and clear coat, hiding the plywood and nail heads, for the most part
I gave the case a thorough cleaning, then a sanding and applied one coat of dark walnut stain followed by three coats of shellac. A dark Walnut stain is the optimal way to hide the plywood and the nail heads. It does not hide the plywood completely but the intent for this project is to refresh the case rather than conceal imperfections.
At one time the original case was painted yellow with red trim, my grandfather’s idea of matching the clock to the paint and trim in his kitchen. The original case was likely in such poor condition that it was thrown away.
Next, the brass. It was painted red at one time so it took a little Brasso muscle to remove a combination of red paint and tarnish.
The brass was quite black
The result looks good
The dial was a challenge. Cleaning up the pit marks and faded numbers was my key objective. The nicks are chicken pecks while stored in a barn. Again, I was not interested in replacing it but touching up the nicks and rust spots while preserving the character of the dial. I have a supply of acrylic metal paint and it is a matter of mixing the right colours to determine the closet match.
The numbers were painted with flat black acrylic metal paint. The dial touch-ups would fool most people at a distance. I removed the rust from the hands and gave them two coats of flat black paint. The coil gong base was cleaned and also painted black.
Colour matching to hide paint loss
I ordered 10 1/4inch convex glass for the bezel plus a door hinge. The hinge was soldered into place as were brass tabs to hold the glass. Although the hinge is not affixed in this photo, this is what the door complete with dial glass looks like. There is not much I can do about the screw holes on the bezel; it remains part of its provenance. I may cut the heads of some brass slotted screws and solder them to the holes or simply leave the holes as-is.
Glass installed in bezel. Hinge installed but not fit to case in this shot
The clock requires an access door on the short drop, the opening is unsightly. As you can see in the photo above the cut-out is rough and a door will effectively hide it. I plan to make a solid door much like the one on this New Haven schoolhouse clock.
Drop door on a New Haven schoolhouse clock
It may not not be the prettiest clock in my home but it will be a great conversation piece and after 60 years it will finally tell the time. I can only imagine my grandfather standing under the clock, comparing the time with his pocket watch and deciding if he should make just one small adjustment.
Next is new drop access door and final assembly which I will detail in the next and last post for this project, Part IV in 4 days.
What to do with this old clock was a difficult decision. What would you have done?
This is Part I of a three part series on restoring this beautiful 1900s Mauthe wall clock.
This Victorian style German wall clock was purchased locally from a family that once lived in the town of Parrsboro over 100 years ago. I found the clock on a local online for-sale site. It looked interesting but there was no price listed. I contacted the seller but they were asking considerably more than I was willing to pay. I explained the work that had to be done to the case, servicing of the movement and the fact that had it been in better condition they would easily receive more for the clock. I concluded the phone conversation with my top offer for the clock. They contacted me 4 days later and met my price.
Celluloid dial with brass centre pan
Open containers of Kerosene usually indicate that the owner thought the vapor would lubricate his clock. Closed containers indicate that he believed that a more controlled method of applying it would be needed
It is a (FMS) Mauthe time and strike wall clock with an Adler gong. I have been assured by the seller that the clock is original in every way and using the serial number and trademark I have determined that it was made between 1890 and 1910, consistent with information I was provided. The eagle emblem on the Adler gong suggests that it was made after 1898.
The seller said the movement was maintained regularly. For years a small thimble of liquid was placed inside the clock to keep it lubricated though she could not recall what the liquid was. I said that this was a wide practice in the old days of keeping a clock movement lubricated, a folk remedy that might work but was not ideal. In fact, from about 1850 to 1920 roads were dirt, dust was everywhere, and people depended on their clocks. They routinely took the dial off and swabbed the movement out with kerosene. They often used a little brush, made with a few chicken feathers. Kerosene (paraffin) was available everywhere and, if used often, was probably an excellent way to rinse away the dust and at the same time oil the movement for a while. A little cup, a thimble or a greasy medicine bottle of kerosene was placed inside the clock case to maintain lubrication. Open containers of Kerosene indicate that the owner thought the vapor would slowly evaporate and lubricate his clock. Closed containers indicate that he believed that a more controlled method of applying it would be needed.
What to do about the case
The finish is alligorated. Alligorated finishes are those that have encountered heat damage and are characterized by a finish (shellac or lacquer) that softens and pools into globules collecting dirt as it re-hardens.
For this project I essentially have three options,
Leave the case as-is,
Attempt to dissolve the alligorating using a solution (see ingredients below) or
Strip the case down to the bare wood.
I eliminated the first option. The case is very unsightly.
On to option number 2. I first attempted to dissolve the alligorated finish using a mixture of turpentine, kerosene and white vinegar combined with #0000 steel wool and while I was able to soften the globules the surrounding area lightened considerably. The net effect was a blotchy finish.
While taking the glass panels out I noticed a residue of shellac on the edges of the glass panels, so, I was dealing not only with the original finish but whatever had been applied over the original finish.
On to the last option, stripping the case
To remove the finish I used EZ Strip, a non-caustic and Eco-friendly product. Though it was non-caustic I wore gloves and ensured that my workspace had good air flow. EZ Strip is jelly-like and relatively easy to work with. After allowing it to sit on the finish for 20-30 minutes it is ready to strip. Despite the ease of application it required rubbing and scrubbing to take off the original finish to the bare wood.
This is the finish when I received the clock
This is the crown before stripping,
The crown
And after.
The finish is removed from the crown
As the case is missing a trim piece on the upper part of the door I fashioned a piece from some cabinet trim. A new slotted wooden stabilizer that secures the crown to the case was constructed of softwood. This you cannot see but it ensures that the crown stays securely on the top of the case. Also missing is a corner piece on the left side of the upper crown. Cove moulding works well. I purchased a finial from Lee Valley and it worked well for this project.
Removing the old finish had an immediate effect. The grain of the walnut veneer that had been hidden all these years was finally exposed.
Case is stripped, awaiting sanding, stain and final finish
For the final finish I will use shellac prepared in the traditional way. This is my first experience with shellac flakes and it is best to begin with a light consistency called a 1 lb cut. This is approximately a 1:8 ratio of shellac to alcohol. Therefore, 1 oz (28g) of shellac is dissolved in 8 fl oz (236ml) of denatured alcohol. I plan to use a French polish technique and apply the shellac and a broad artists brush to coat the turned sections.
Why is it frustrating asking for advice on social media?
I posted my case restoration project on a popular online clock site. I was seeking advice on working with shellac and while I received good advice the discussion quickly morphed into a debate about whether or not it is ethical to strip a case. There was significant division. Those on one side said they would do very little but clean it up or take the objectionable dirt off the finish while the other side posited that if presented with a situation where the finish was so poor that you could not appreciate the beauty of the veneers, a stripping is an acceptable alternative. Although both arguments have merit some of the posters were somewhat indignant and considered it a heresy to do anything at all to a clock case. There will always be both sides of the argument and I respect that.
See servicing of the movement and the final finishing of the case in Parts II and III, in the weeks to come.
Is this attractive 30 hour weight driven Ogee a Waterbury, a New Haven or an E.N. Welch? All of the above, actually and perhaps more.
The older the clock and the greater the number of owners means there is an increased chance that there have been minor and even significant changes to the clock
Is it a marriage or a Frankenstein?
When horologists speak of a marriage they mean the clock in its entirety is not original. It generally means the movement is not original to the case but it can have other meanings as well. Various parts and components might have been added or changed over time. Over the life of a clock it has often been in the hands of many owners particularly if the clock is well over 100 years old. The older the clock and the greater the number of owners means there is an increased chance that there have been minor and even significant changes. Each owner may add or take away components in the interest of having a reliable clock while sacrificing authenticity. Functionality trumps aesthetics. When a clock goes well beyond the horologists definition of a marriage, it is called a Frankenstein.
A Frankenstein clock is made up of a mixture of clock parts from many makers. In this case, a previous owner acquired a number of non-working Ogee clocks, took what was salvageable from each one and constructed a working clock.
New Haven 30 hour movement
This clock was purchased at auction as a non-running example and cost the owner very little money. I was asked to take a look at it and perhaps “do something to make it run”. It came complete with weights for both sides missing only the pendulum bob and the correct key. The key that came with it was a #3 mantel clock key as the original would have been a crank style key. One weight was stuck in the right channel past its hook; the other was loose in the case; not a good way to transport a clock. Though difficult to tell if they are original to this clock, the weights are those typically found in a 30-hour brass time and strike movement.
The numbers have been repainted by the writer
The dial is not original to the case though it is correct for the period. There is a stamped impression in French on the back of the dial suggesting that the clock it was attached to was intended for export to France (Chauncey Jerome?).
Tablet design
The tablet is a nicely detailed floral design but has some loss as one would expect given its age. However, the tablet and the door do not appear to be original to the case. There are small blocks under each hinge suggesting the door was “made to fit” this case. Nails are used on one hinge and screws on the other.
Waterbury coil gong
The case is an E.N. Welch, the time and strike weight driven movement is New Haven and the coil gong is a Waterbury.
The aluminum spindle for the cable just above the movement on the right side is an curious touch.
Aluminum spindle
A wall hook at the top and back of the case suggests that it was hung rather than having sat on a shelf. Knowledgeable Ogee clock owners know that these clocks were never meant to be hung though many were displayed in that manner.
I took the movement out of the case, inspected it for wear and found it to be in very good condition with no obvious pivot, tooth, pinion or click wear. The verge and escape wheel similarly had little wear. The cables for the weights should be just long enough to bring the weight to the bottom of the case with a little to spare. On both sides the cables were twice as long as they should have been. The suspension spring and rod which is a later replacement, is too long as the bottom of the spring touches the crutch loop. The crutch loop had been incorrectly turned 90 degrees requiring a simple twist with pliers to correct it. How it ran is a puzzle since there was no impulse transmitted from the crutch to the pendulum rod. A previous owner, though well intentioned had little knowledge of how a movement functioned.
Incorrect grain direction on top piece
The rosewood veneer though dulled with age is in fair shape and had acceptable repairs with the exception of the flat horizontal strip on the top front, which upon closer inspection, is a replacement with simulated grain oriented in the wrong direction. Other issues are minor chips on the bottom edge of the case, two pieces of missing veneer on the right side and slight bubbling of veneer on the top left side panel.
Veneer issues
So, what is this clock exactly?
The answer is that it is a 30 hour Ogee clock. It is also an amalgam of many clock parts, a Frankenstein. From afar the entire clock looks very good, but closer examination immediately reveals it many sins. As they say, “Nice from afar but far from nice!”. A resourceful person took all the good parts from a variety of clocks and combined them to make a clock that actually runs and keeps good time.
Is it a keeper?
For discerning clock collectors this example is far from acceptable and certainly diminishes the value of a clock considerably even if it runs well. An expert looks for precisely these things prior to any decision and any serious collector of Ogee clocks would instantly walk away. For someone either interested in the history of clock production or those entering the world of clocks wanting a cheap clock to practice and learn with, it is certainly worth keeping.
The clock is running strongly and striking as it should following a cleaning and oiling. This 30 hour New Haven, Waterbury, E.N. Welch Ogee clock from the 19th century would fool most people.
It reminds me of that old expression….Caveat Emptor (Let the Buyer Beware)!
If one were to ask those with a keen interest in Canadian antique clocks, the word Pequegnat would immediately come to mind. Pequegnat produced clocks for close to 40 years and left an indelible mark on Canadian culture.
Predating Arthur Pequegnat is a lesser known clock maker (or clock-makers) that made clocks between 1872 and 1884. The Canada Clock Co, and the Hamilton Clock Co. struggled over a 12 year period to put Canada on the clock-making map. In 1872 the Canada Clock Co. established itself in Whitby, Ontario (Canada) but lasted just 4 years before failing, though largely due to a devastating factory fire.
Canada Clock Company cottage clock
Out of the ashes came another attempt in 1876 and key principles including manager John Collins moved to Hamilton and set up the Hamilton Clock Company. After 4 years this new company also failed and production halted in 1880. In late 1880 one more attempt was made to establish a new company called the Canada Clock Company resurrecting the old name. It is still based in Hamilton at the old Hamilton Clock Co. factory. Success was short-lived as the company declared bankruptcy in 1884 ending a dozen years producing clocks for the Canadian market.
Although both movements and cases were made in Canada they were copies American styles
Canada Clock Company, Prince of Wales parlour clockCanada Clock Company, City of Hamilton parlour clock
I have grouped the clocks from the three companies and these are their characteristics. The most common clocks found today are the weight-driven, thirty-hour “Ogee” style, with colourful birds or flowers surrounded by a black background on the glass tablet. At least five different labels are known, four have a beaver on them. The large printed paper label was located inside the case on the lower back. Spring-driven mantel clocks with plain cases were also made with thirty-hour movements. Although both movements and cases were made in Canada they were obvious copies of American styles.
Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple clock with etched glass tabletClock label showing the Hamilton Clock Company factory
Also produced was a spring-driven “school house” wall clock.
At least sixty models of spring-driven mantel clocks are known, with both thirty-hour and eight-day movements. Most of the door tablets (Canada Clock Co.) have acid etched glass designs, unique to the two Hamilton-based companies and done in association with a local glass factory. Wall clocks are also found with the Canada Clock Company, Hamilton label.
The most desirable clocks are the ornate time and strike parlour clocks such as the City of Hamilton and Prince of Wales pictured above.
Unfortunately, a valiant attempt to grow a home-bred clock company failed miserably. However, the clocks of all three companies are highly sought after by Canadian collectors today.
This is a Canadian made clock I bought at an antique store on Bloomfield, Ontario this past summer (2018).
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock
This clock is affectionately known as the “Pointed Top”
The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. made clocks in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) from 1904 to 1941. Canadian clock collectors are very familiar with the name and associate Pequegnat clocks with solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs and nationalism since many clocks were named after towns and cities in Canada.
Pequegnat made mantel, shelf, hall clocks (Tall case) and wall clocks mostly of oak but some were mahogany veneered. The Kitchen clock or gingerbread clock as it is often called was very popular at the time and Pequegnat made an effort to keep up with current styles with a range called the Maple Leaf. There were six versions of the Maple Leaf clock made by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. Though the dimensions are similar they share two unique characteristics; all Maple Leaf’s have the distinctive maple leaf tablet and Maple Leaf pendulum. It is Pequegnat’s interpretation of a truly Canadian clock styled after American clocks.
Label found underneath the base
This clock is affectionately known as the “Pointed Top”. Maple Leaf clocks are easily found on auction & for-sale sites and can be had for a mere fraction of the cost of the more desirable hall and wall clocks.
Hammer and coil gong
I have several Pequegnat clocks in my collection, two of which are Maple Leaf’s, a “fan top” and now this, the “pointed top”. In my view, the pointed top is the best design of the series.
Made of quarter sawn golden oak, it is reminiscent of a Gothic steeple clock, with squared columns on either side and a pointed centre with stylistic applique above the 5 inch dial. The base is a simple angled pedestal sitting on a box frame.
Pendulum bob with Canadian Maple Leaf
Some clocks have something peculiar about them and this one is no exception. Most Pequegnat labels are found on the back board. The label on this clock is underneath the base which is an odd location for a Pequegnat. If this was a standard practice it looks original and has the usual amount of loss one would expect from a 100 year old clock label. While the name Berlin is on the dial, the label indicates that the clock was made in Kitchener, Ontario. There are two possible explanations; either the dial face is a replacement from a older clock or the clock was made during the transition period (1916) when the name of the city was changed from Berlin to Kitchener during the First World War.
The movement is a distinctive Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates and brass bushings pressed into the plates
The glass tablet is in excellent condition. It is not uncommon to find some loss especially a few missing maple leaves here and there but this is the best I have seen. The dial face has some flaking but is otherwise in good condition; the Roman Numerals are vivid and unfaded. The spade hands are correct for the clock and look original. The oak case is in great shape with no missing or split pieces. The finish is in excellent condition and the oak grain enhances the simple lines, in fact, this clock has aged very well.
Tablet is in excellent condition
I took the movement out of its case to inspect it. It is a distinctive Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates and brass bushings pressed into the plates. Not surprisingly it had been worked on in the past. One bushing on the front plate has punch marks around it otherwise the movement was tight and there appears to be little evidence of wear. There is one small issue however; the lever that activates the passing strike on the half hour is loose in the arbour and has turned to one side. Turning it to the correct position does little to fix the problem. At some point I will get in there with Lock-Tite to secure it.
The fact that it does not strike reliably on the half hour does not particularly bother me. I oiled the movement, reinstalled the movement into its case, set the beat, wound it and it maintains a full eight day cycle.
I am very pleased with this acquisition but I my search goes on for the more desirable 15-day Pequegnat Moncton wall clock and of course the Regulator #1.
A few months ago I was following a NAWCC thread on the volatility of clock prices and thought I would echo comments from some of the posters as well as my own thoughts on why clock prices are seemingly all over the map.
Market conditions and demand play a significant role. I have watched sadly as prices for many early American clocks have plummeted yet high end clocks have retained their value. Theories abound including tough economic times and the newer generation’s rejection of anything old.
As one poster said, “How is a price arrived at? It is a murky and confusing process. People use a number of metrics including a price consistently achieved at auction and their own experience buying and/or selling. Most offer clocks for 2 to 3 times what they expect to receive knowing that they will be negotiated down because it is much harder to mark something up. It is a very inexact science and a source of much debate. An object is ultimately worth what someone is willing to pay.” That’s especially true of a truly rare clock for which there is no real comparison. The term “rare” is difficult to define but rare is what most “experts” generally agree upon.
However, what was once considered “rare” based upon the largely anecdotal experience of persons whether they are dealers, collectors or auctioneers has been changed by the “eBay effect” where rarity is challenged by many examples offered for sale. It has been a real game changer.
Sperry and Shaw New York style clock for $75
Another poster said, “Many people who deal in antiques and collectibles cannot know everything.” It is especially true in the blossoming low end line of antique shops which are no different than flea markets and junk shops. Many of these stores rely on impulse buying and clock experts are not their target customer.
The poster went on to say, “These clocks are not intended be sold to a serious collector, but the impulse buyer will make the clock purchase based on any number of factors – decorative; “That steeple clock would fit perfectly on the mantel” or “We don’t care that it might not work, it is for show only” or nostalgic; “We always wanted an old clock and we can now afford it”. You cannot discount the value of being able to see the object up close, smell it, touch it and hear it tick and or strike.”
A true clock store, usually with repair services, commands high prices for their wares, but the clocks usually come with a guarantee and the comfort of knowing that it will work well and will do so for years to come. Internet stores lack the fixed and variable costs (and reputation) that a brick and mortar establishment has and, all other things being equal, can offer their product at a lower cost. However, to make a true cost comparison, one should add the cost of shipping, packaging, handling and insurance that will need to be paid by the purchaser.
Is this an antique store or a junk shop?
I cringe as I walk into some of these shops. Most antique malls that I’ve discovered charge a monthly rate plus a commission percentage that result in significant markups. I spotted a Mauthe box clock priced at $300.00. It had a marred dial, broken beveled glass panels and marked “as-is”. When I asked the dealer about a better price, his answer was to knock 10% off. I walked away shaking my head.
There is no true “standard” pricing for any vintage or antique clock. As with most objects there is a price range that most would consider reasonable. I have paid more for some clocks than they are worth but armed with increased knowledge I can now make more informed decisions in the future. Caveat Emptor is the principle which should guide every buyer. The buyer alone is responsible for checking the quality and suitability of goods before a purchase is made. Education is the key as an informed buyer will make much better choices.
This is a 30 hour or 1-day New Haven Ogee shelf clock. 1875-80 seems to be the approximate period of manufacture for this smallish Ogee clock. The case measures 18 1/2 by 11 3/4 inches (47cm X 30cm) and the hour strike movement measures 3 1/2 by 5 inches (9cm X 12.7cm).
So, its a bit of a miss-match. Imperfect but attractive just the same
This 30 hour New Haven Ogee shelf clock looks nice from a distance but closer inspection reveals a number of issues regarding the condition of the case. Although the sides panels of the clock are veneered, the front veneer has been stripped likely because of significant loss or damage. Crude chisel marks on the left front of the case suggest that the veneer in this section was tough to take off. This is unfortunate, but I have no intention of re-veneering any part of this clock. There is also veneer loss on the top right side. From a distance the entire clock actually looks good and the casual observer would not notice the difference.
It takes a#3 key to wind the clock. It is probably the only American shelf clock I have that uses a key that small.
The movement looks original to the case and there are indications that it has been worked on in the past. There are punch marks surrounding several pivot holes, an common old-style repair to close the holes.
30 hour movement, prior to cleaning
The coil gong is a replacement and is in a slightly different location than the original gong judging from screw holes to its right. The gong is probably from an E. N. Welch or a Gilbert. The clock dial face is a recent addition and the access door knob looks like it is a later addition.
So, its a bit of a miss-match. Imperfect but functional.
The movement was dis-assembled and the parts cleaned in my recently acquired Quantrex 140 ultrasonic cleaner. The movement parts came out shining particularly the lantern pinions.
Front plate removed
The pivots were in very good shape and polished up well with my Butterworth Bushing Polishing System that I use with my multi-speed Dremel tool. I decided to tackle only the worst bushing holes; the centre canon, back plate and the escape wheel bridge. Four bushings were also installed on second and third wheels, front and back plates.
Movement testTesting in the clock case rather than on a stand
Some consider 30 hour clocks as a hassle because they must be wound once a day but I am okay with that. This 30-hour Ogee clock runs very well, keeps good time and I am pleased with the servicing.
I posted Part I of a four-part article on this curious schoolhouse clock recently. In this, Part II I discuss the what I like and what frustrates me about this project.
I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. Now that I have it what do I do with it. I thought long and hard about what my next steps should be and considered advice from friends and family.
Do absolutely nothing,
Discard the case, buy a donor case and install the parts I have or,
“Preserve” it, that is, not change it in a significant way but have a working clock.
I had hopes of restoring this clock to its former glory but after discovering a home-built case I have decided to proceed differently
The good stuff: The dial face is definitely showing its age. There is rust and pitting throughout but the Roman Numerals are fairly clear despite some fading. The Waterbury trademark is visible on the dial just above the centre arbour. The spade hands appear to be original, though rusted. The time and strike movement is intact sans suspension spring, pendulum rod and pendulum bob. There is a Waterbury trademark on the front plate of the movement with a patent date of September 22, 1874. Just how long Waterbury used this movement deserves some research but the clock works look to be from the 1890s. The coil gong is clearly marked Waterbury. The bottom line; there is strong evidence that the movement, dial, bezel, clock hands, and coil gong are all from the same clock.
When I picked up the clock I immediately discovered that it was twice as heavy as it should be
Plywood was not available as a general building material until 1928
The frustrating stuff: When I picked up the clock I immediately discovered just how heavy it was. Makers go to great lengths to make clocks as light as possible; this one is very hefty. The backboard and front face are constructed of ½ inch plywood. Plywood would not have been available in the 1890s or even some years afterwards. The centre frame appears to be 3/4 inch board. The movement sits high on a block of wood to bring the arbours closer to the dial but the result is that they protrude too far above the face. Robertson and Phillips screws (the former invented 1909, the latter in 1932) are used everywhere. The “newer” case is very sturdy and would likely last a long time but weighs twice as much as it should. It is an interesting homemade case.
Plywood construction, twice as heavy as a typical clock case should be
The handyman, be it my grandfather or someone who it was passed on to certainly had the best of intentions. The original pieces such as the dial, movement etc. were retained but the original case was discarded. My grandparents were poor and lived modestly. In those days if things wore out folks would go to great lengths to keep them running often resorting to home repairs with materials at hand. The goal was functionality not aesthetics.
The movement, coil gong, dial face, bezel and hands are all from the same clock
Four screw holes were drilled into the original brass dial bezel and at one point in its life it was painted red. The bezel would have been originally hinged to the front face of the clock. The dial glass is missing, perhaps discarded after it broke. Aside from the 4 screws holding the dial bezel, I counted 20 more screw holes once I lifted up the bezel.
Lastly, the short drop section is without an access door.
Next steps: I had hopes of restoring this clock to its former glory but after discovering a home-built case I have decided to take another course of action.
The dial, bezel, movement and coil gong are the important mechanical bits which are in good shape. Missing are the suspension spring, pendulum rod and pendulum bob, all easily available through any clock supplier. The movement wheels run free and the mainsprings are good; all the parts are there aside from those mentioned above and there is no reason why it should not run reliably after cleaning and servicing.
The clock is waiting for me on my cousins kitchen table
The case is what it is, it is part of my history, part of my family history. It will be sanded and stained dark walnut followed by a clear topcoat. I will affix a brass plaque in memory of my grandfather and proudly hang it on the wall.
But first: The first order of business is to clean up the clock including the brass dial face sections. Next, buy new glass for the dial and a hinge for the bezel plus the movement parts that are required. Finally, I will fashion a new drop door using old wood from a donor clock.
And that’s where it ends. It can be no more than what it is.
It may not be the prettiest clock in my home but it will be a great conversation piece and after 70 years it will finally tell the time. I can only imagine my grandfather standing under the clock, comparing the time with his pocket watch and deciding if he should make just one small adjustment.
The clock is now on my project bench and I will post two more blog articles in November detailing the steps towards preserving this interesting clock.
Photo of my grandfather’s clock sent to me by my cousin
I’ve thought about this clock, dreamt about it, wondering where it was all these years…….and now I have it. Now, what do I do?
I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. After church on Sundays, my father would take us kids by for a visit; it was a weekly ritual. The house was stone quiet except for the sound of a clock ticking loudly in the kitchen. My grandfather was a veteran of WWI and was bothered by certain noises but did not mind the sound of a mechanical clock.
When I was a kid in the 1950s it looked gigantic and for some curious reason, it was painted yellow with red trim. What did I know, I thought old clocks came in all sorts of colours.
My grandfather, William George Joiner, taken during WWI
But he loved that clock. There is a story that my grandfather was fanatical about keeping the clock on time; he would constantly compare the time to his pocket watch and make adjustments, sometimes several times a day. They left the house on Olmstead Street in Eastview (now Vanier, Ontario, Canada) several years before his death and the clock was passed to a son (my uncle) and eventually handed down within his family. My grandfather passed away in 1962.
Movement is essentially intact except for the suspension spring, rod and pendulum.
A year ago I decided to track down the clock and learned that it had stayed within the family. My cousin sent a photo of the clock but upon examining it I could see that something was not quite right. It was missing parts, it looked pretty rough and that case looked homemade. At that time I replied,
Yes, it is indeed a Waterbury time and strike clock. Your description of it as a school clock is correct though it would not have been called a schoolhouse clock at the time. It would have been sold as an office clock. The patent date tells us that the clock was made after 1874 but likely manufactured in the 1890s to 1900.
In clock circles it would be described as a time and strike 8-day octagonal short drop wall clock, Roman Numeral dial face with spade hands. From the photo I can see that it is missing the pendulum (as you said) the hinged wooden drop access door which would have had a glass tablet and the brass/glass bezel which would have covered the dial. I assume these items are long gone.
It also appears to have been in a damp environment judging from the tarnished brass and the fact that the rust from the iron nails has bled through the wood. However, it is not unusual for a clock of this age to be in such a condition. I have seen far worse.
At a recent family get-together, my cousin said that if I wanted the clock I could have it. Yes, I said and I brought it home thinking about my next steps with my new clock project.
There are 4 posts in this series. Part II is in 4 days. In Part II I consider those next steps. Parts III and IV will be in November.
The family was in the process of downsizing and this was one of the items that had to go
This attractive antique Victorian style German wall clock was purchased locally from a family that once lived in the town of Parrsboro over 100 years ago. Parrsboro is a picturesque Canadian community in Cumberland County, Nova Scotia and one of the oldest settled areas of Canada. It had hung for many years in the Parrsboro Mansion pictured below. Today the mansion is a popular bed and breakfast destination.
Parrsboro Mansion, Parrsboro, Nova Scotia, Canada
I found the clock on a local online for-sale site. It looked interesting but there was no price listed. I contacted the seller but they were asking considerably more than I was willing to pay. I explained the work that had to be done to the case and movement and the fact that had it been in better condition they would easily receive more for the clock. I concluded the phone conversation with my top offer for the clock. They contacted me 4 days later and met my price.
I was curious about its history. The seller explained that the clock was brought over from Europe when her husband’s family moved to Canada in the 1890s and had been in the family ever since. The family was in the process of downsizing and this was one of the items that had to go. I was pleased that the seller expressed an interest in seeing the final restoration and I assured her that I would keep in touch. Knowing the history of the clock, or any clock for that matter, is value added in my view; provenance is so important when it comes to any antique.
Using the serial number and trademark I have determined that it was made between 1890 and 1910, consistent with information provided by the seller
It is a Mauthe time and strike wall clock with an Adler gong. I have been assured that the clock is original in every way and using the serial number and trademark I have determined that it was made between 1890 and 1910, consistent with information provided by the seller. The eagle emblem on the Adler gong suggests that it was made after 1898. The turn of the century would be fairly accurate dating for this clock. It is a 120 year old clock that is not overly garish and reflects the style its period.
Adler coil gong
The clock case is in need of a restoration. There are pieces missing and it appears that it was either in a hot environment for some of its life, an attic perhaps or hung over a fireplace; the finish is alligorated. Alligorated finsihes are those that have encountered heat damage and are characterized by a finish (shellac or lacquer) that softens and pools into globules collecting dirt as it re-hardens.
Alligorated finish
It is missing a finial on the crown, a trim piece on the top of the access door, the wall stabilizers and a corner piece on left side of the crown. Some of these parts are available through parts suppliers, other pieces must be fabricated.
Crown with missing finial and small corner piece on the top left
I am anxious to start on the case and must decide whether to clean the surface or strip to the bare wood. The dial is a separate issue. It is cellulose and very dark. Can it be cleaned? Not likely but I am doing some research to find a solution. In the meantime the movement has run strong for the past 4 days and strikes as it should. It will need a cleaning and possibly new bushings but I will know more once I examine it more carefully. At this point I do not see any major issues with the movement.
I am completing the restoration of a Waterbury wall clock and once done I will commence work on this clock project.
As I proceed with this project I will document my experiences restoring this early 1900s FMS Mauthe time and strike wall clock with an interesting history.
Found this little schoolhouse clock not 10 minutes from where I live. It is a Sessions Drop Octagon. It was manufactured in Forestville Conn. USA in the early 1920s and spent most of it’s life hung in a one-room schoolhouse near Springhill, Nova Scotia (Canada). The seller said that he had taken it out of the schoolhouse when it was decommissioned in the 1970s and it has been in storage ever since.
It is small, measuring 21 inches high by 13 1/2 inches wide and with a 7 inch Arabic dial.
Foxing
“It’s not running” he said. “Fine” I said. I took it home and had it running within 10 minutes. Although it ran strongly it required a good cleaning. I took the movement out of its case, dis-assembled it, cleaned all the parts in an ultrasonic cleaner, polished the pivots, cleaned and oiled the mainspring, installed 2 bushings, reinstalled the movement, tested it and set about cleaning up the case.
Time-only movement
After a Murphy’s Soap clean-up to the case I let it thoroughly dry then applied 2 coats of shellac to bring back the natural luster of the wood which was in otherwise good condition. The clock face had some foxing, which, in clock circles, means that some of the tin byproduct had leached through to the paper label and discoloured it. A little unsightly but I decided to live with it. I hung it up over my desk as one of a trio of time zone clocks to remind me of the time where my kids live.
Time zone clocks, Session clcok on right
The clock is a loud ticker but it runs well and should be reliable for years to come.
Need a quick primer on developments and inventions in horology. You have come to the right place.
18th Century shelf clock Porto, Portugal
Though by no means a definitive guide the following are some important dates in the history of the clock as gathered through a number of sources. The difficultly in affixing some dates with precision results from discrepancies among sources.
Horological developments during the centuries before the mechanical clock are left out altogether. Water (Clepsydra) and sun clocks of the middle ages and astronomical clocks of ancient China deserve special mention but are the subject of a separate discourse and are not included here.
Important dates in Horological Development
CA. 1300 – First mechanical verge clock, Europe
1364 – Astronomical clock conceived by Giovanni de Dondi, Italy
1386 – Tower (turret) clock Salisbury Cathedral, England
Salisbury cathedral clock, photo by Dr. Meghan Joiner
CA. 1400 – Fusee invented by Jacobs, Czechoslovakia
CA. 1450 – Table clock with spring and fusee, Phillip the Good of Burgundy, France
CA. 1500 – Mainspring invented, Germany
CA. 1510 – Watch invented by Peter Henlein, Germany
CA. 1560 – Spring driven portable clock, Germany
CA. 1570 – Oldest known clock with a second hand, Orpheus clock, Germany
1637 – Galileo, swinging temple lamp, pendulum control conceived, Italy
CA. 1650 – First tower clock appears in Colonies, America
1656 – Pendulum clock devised by Huygens, Holland
1657 – Verge and foliot gives way to pendulum control, Huygens, Holland
1658 – Long-case prototype made by Fromanteel adapted from lantern clock, England
1660 – Balance wheel conceived by Hooke, England
CA. 1675 – Richard Towneley invents the dead-beat escapement, England
1675 – Balance wheel with spiral spring invented by Huygens, Holland
CA. 1675 – Recoil escapement and crutch invented by Hooke in collaboration with Clement, England
1676 – Rack striking developed by Barlow, England
1680 – 1700 – famous horologists of this era were Arnold, Earnshaw, East, Graham, Knibb, Compion and Windmills of England; Berthoud, Breguet and LeRoy of France
1701 – St Sulpice seminary tower clock (imported from France), Montreal, Canada
1713 – Harrison invents marine chronometer, England
CA. 1715 – Break-arch dial introduced
1715 – Graham perfects deadbeat escapement, regarded as the “father” of the dead-beat escapement
1717 – First tower clock of America, Benjamin Bagnall, Boston
1726 – Mercurial pendulum invented (temperature compensating pendulum), Graham, England
1726 – Wall clock by Thomas Bennett, 8 day brass, weight driven, America
1736 – Harrison’s marine chronometer tested at sea (accurately ascertaining longitude), England
1770 – White dials appear in English longcase clocks
1776 – Independent seconds train invented for watch, Pouzait, Switzerland
1790 – Vienna regulator style case emerges in Austria
1790 – American woodworks clocks begin to be appear
1802 – Willard patents his banjo clock, America
1806 – Terry introduces Pillar and Scroll clock, America
1809 – Martin Cheney leaves America to set up a clock-making shop in Montreal, Canada
1810 – Carriage clock (Pendule De Voyage) introduced by Breguet of France
1818 – Heman Clark makes wrought brass movement for Pillar and Scroll case, America
1825 – Rolled brass production begins in America
1837 – Noble Jerome 30-hour brass movement patent approved, America
1840 – American brass movements in mass production
1842 – American brass movement clocks exported to England by Chauncey Jerome
1845 – Wood-works movement production ends, America
1850 – Westminster tower clock designed by Lord Grimthorpe and made by Dent, England
CA. 1850 – Brocot (pin-wheel) escapement and pendulum suspension introduced, France
CA. 1850 – American mass production of watches begins
1860 – Junghans (Germany) sent to America to study American mass production techniques
1870 – Decline in English long-case clocks
1874 – Mass production of mantel and wall clocks begin in Whitby, Canada,
1900 – American clock production is at its height; makers are Ansonia, Ingraham, Gilbert, Howard, New Haven, Seth Thomas, Waterbury, and Welch
1904 – Arthur Pequegnat begins clock production in Berlin, Canada
1906 – Eureka electric clock introduced, America
CA. 1910 – Torsion pendulum clock (400-day) introduced, Germany
1920-40 – Decline in American mechanical clock production
1941 – Arthur Pequegnat ceases production, Canada
CA. 1960-70 – End of mass produced mechanical clocks, America (though cheaper Japanese, Korean & Chinese mechanical clocks flood North America)
Present day – Some movement and clockmakers remain; Howard Miller (Ridgeway), Keininger, Hermle, Chelsea, Jaeger LaCoultre among others
The clock is one of mans greatest achievements. The development of instruments to tell time is the unwavering toil of brilliant minds from many disciplines who, over 800 years, worked tirelessly to create, innovate and improve methods for telling the time.
Horology is not only the study of time but the synergy of art, joinery, fashion, design, décor, physics, engineering, metallurgy and mathematics. Indeed, the study of the mechanical clock is a microcosm of our society.
Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1 is still on my wish list
Lots of exciting news over the summer. Six new clocks, three of which have been on my wish list for a while. One, a Cuckoo clock, is my first. Another is an Ansonia crystal regulator, two more Pequegnat clocks, a curious Waterbury wall clock and more. I will be writing about my new acquisitions in the weeks to come.
I also managed to expand my clock library as I have found several interesting books on horology which I will report on in a future article.
For those who wrote to me over the summer, thanks and again I apologize for the delay in getting back to you.
Chinese time and strike wall clock that seller calls a grandfather clock
Antique Grandmother Clock in Immaculate Condition
I am selling my wife’s grandmother clock because it does not suit the decor of our new home. She has treasured this antique for years and doesn’t want to part with it. Please make my execution as painless as possible and buy this clock quickly. Keeps perfect time and has no scratches on the cabinet.
This ad will be removed when I am executed…………..actually just before ,,,,,so purchase this clock now
This is a Chinese clock with a calendar feature, circa the 1960s. The ad refers to it as an antique. It is not!. Vintage, perhaps. The ad refers to it as a grandmother clock. It is not!
Grandmother clock by CraftLine circa 19780; a little shorter than a grandfather clock
The seller is asking $150, five times more than it is worth. It’s probably fairly reliable, looks well cared for and I would take it if it were given to me.
We call it Daylight Saving Time (DST), the British call it “British Summer Time” and “summertime” in other areas. It is the practice of advancing clocks during summer months so that evening daylight lasts longer while sacrificing normal sunrise times. Typically, regions that use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time. We have a little expression, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.
Mauthe buffet clock
The idea was proposed by George Hudson in 1885 and first implemented by the Austrian Empire in 1916. Some countries do not recognize it in all regions. In Canada, for example, most of Saskatchewan does not change clocks spring and fall, it technically observes DST year round. Parts of Nunavut remain on Eastern Standard Time throughout the year. In the USA (which has 11 time zones) most areas observe DST with the exception of Arizona and Hawaii. Florida has recently applied to get rid of DST.
I advocate a move to “permanent daylight saving time” that is, staying on summer hours all year with no time shifts
DST clock shifts sometimes complicate timekeeping and can disrupt travel, billing, record keeping, medical devices, heavy equipment, and sleep patterns. Computer software often adjusts clocks. Radio controlled clocks adjust the time automatically which is very convenient. We have two modern Sony clocks in our home which do exactly that.
My only tall-case clock, Ridgeway, Hamilton Country
But for the 35 clocks that I have running at any given time, that means making a manual adjustment twice a year which is time-consuming and an unnecessary hassle.
There is a constant dispute about the benefits and drawbacks. Proponents say that it conserves energy and has a psychological benefit of extending the daylight hours. Opponents say that the energy arguments are inconclusive. People must remember to change their clocks which is a time-consuming exercise, particularly for antique and vintage mechanical clocks that cannot be moved backward safely.
For most of my clocks I either simply let them complete their cycle, stop them and when the correct time shows on the clock, I start them up. There is less wear and tear on the movement and I think my clocks are happier for it.
But why go through this nonsense; let’s just get rid of DST! I advocate a move to “permanent daylight saving time” that is, staying on summer hours all year with no time shifts. My clocks will appreciate it and yours will too!
If you ever need to transport a German box clock or a similar style wall clock there are several steps you must take before you remove it from the wall.
German “box” clock by Mauthe, sold under the Solar or Forestville name in Canada
One of these procedures is to secure the strike rods. The gong or strike rods are screwed into the gong block. If allowed to move during transport there is a risk that the rod(s) will break. Although they are strong and withstand years of striking they are also brittle and can easily snap. Clock-makers have several solutions for securing the rods. This is one of them. Yours may be similar.
The gong block
On some clocks, you may find a fork-like device that turns to secure the rods.
Strike rod stabilizer
By turning it clockwise the three gong rods will fit into the forks as shown in the next photo.
The pendulum is removed and rods are now locked in place
Once the rods are secured in place and you have removed the pendulum rod and bob as well as secure the access door, you can now safely remove your clock from the wall.
An antique clock stopping unexpectedly can be frustrating, especially if it has been running smoothly for years. However, a stopped clock doesn’t always signal a major problem. In many cases, the issue can be resolved with a little troubleshooting and basic maintenance. Whether it’s a cherished family heirloom or a recent addition to your collection, understanding the possible reasons behind its stoppage can help you decide on the best course of action to bring it back to life.
Perhaps you’ve recently acquired a mechanical clock—whether inherited, gifted, purchased at an antique store, bought online, or one you’ve had for a while—and, for no clear reason, it has stopped working.
Categories of Clocks
There are four general categories of clock movements; quartz, electro-mechanical, electric, and mechanical. This post focuses on mechanical clocks, whether antique or vintage and if your mechanical clock has stopped, I may be able to help you get it working again.
Running Time
It may surprise some that mechanical clocks require regular winding. Eight-day clocks need to be wound once a week, while 30-hour clocks require daily winding. 31-day clocks only need winding once a month, and 400-day clocks, also known as anniversary clocks, are wound once a year. Additionally, many German and a small number of American clocks run for 14 days before needing a wind.
Kundo Standard 400-day clock winds with a key once per year
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, 14-day time-only clock
Winding a Clock Movement
What does winding a clock actually mean? It means providing enough power to a mechanism that will allow it to run for its designed cycle.
For example for clocks with mainsprings, winding a mainspring implies turning the key until the clock winds no further. Time and strike clocks will have two winding arbours, chiming clocks generally have 3 winding arbours.
Clocks with weights have one, two, or three winding points. Absent the odd exception, a time-only clock will have one winding point, a time-and-strike clock will have two, and a chiming clock will have three. If there are no winding holes on the clock face, it is a weight-driven clock and the weights must be pulled up by hand.
In the case of clocks with mainsprings that provide the motive power for the time, strike, and chimes, wind each arbour until resistance is met and you cannot wind any further.
One key will fit all the arbours except the regulator arbour (on clocks that have this feature) which requires a smaller key. Clocks that have a regulator arbour originally came with a double-ended key; the smaller key is for the regulator.
Clocks generally wind clockwise but it is also common to find winding arbours that must be wound counterclockwise.
Over-winding
The idea of overwinding a clock is a myth. If a clock stops after being fully wound, it typically indicates that dirt, old oil, or grime on the mainspring has caused it to seize. Even if the mainspring, once unseized, has enough power, it still needs cleaning, which requires disassembling the movement and checking for other potential issues.
A clock in good working condition should complete its full cycle, whether that’s 30 hours, 8 days, 14 days, 31 days, or any other duration.
Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows). The arbour over the 6 requires a smaller key to regulate the clock
Why Has My Clock Stopped
First and foremost, all clocks require motive power. Winding a clock stores potential energy in the mainspring, which is gradually released over a designed period of time. This energy is regulated by the escapement, a mechanism that controls the release of the energy in small, consistent increments, ensuring the clock keeps accurate time. Weights resting on the bottom of the baseboard will stop a clock and a completely unwound spring-driven clock will not run.
Is the clock in beat? Put your clock on a level surface. Listen to the tick and the tock of your clock. Try to minimize the sounds in the room you are in so that you can listen closely to its rhythm. It is in beat when its ticks and tocks are even….tick…tock…tick…tock…, and is out of beat when they are uneven, either, tick….. tock or tock tick…… Put another way, there must be an equal amount of time between the ticks and the tocks. When a clock is out of beat, it will not run, or it will run for a short time and stop. A clock’s beat must be regular to work properly.
Is the clock level? There are two ways to put a clock in beat. The first is to tilt the clock sideways, one way or the other, and listen for the beat to even out. When the beat is even, prop the clock to stay tilted that way. If it is a wall clock move the bottom section from side to side till you hear a steady beat. Now it will run in beat but it will obviously not look good.
Adjusting the crutch Adjust the crutch to one side or the other until the beat is even. The crutch is the rod that extends down from the pallets which rock back and forth on the escape wheel. The pendulum rod passes through either a loop (called a crutch loop) or a forked foot at the end of the crutch as indicated in the photo below. Incidentally, that rod needs to be in the middle of the crutch loop and can’t be tight inside the loop nor too loose. The crutch is attached to the pendulum leader which is then attached to a post with a suspension spring. Other mantel clocks require similar adjustment to the crutch and instructions may be provided on a label or a pamphlet that came with the clock. A clock with a balance wheel or lever-type escapement rather than a pendulum will operate on a non-level surface.
American made time and strike
Have repairs been done recently? Unless you had a friend fix your clock most reputable clock-makers will offer a warranty, typically 6 months to a year. If your clock stops within that time frame, contact the clock-repairer who may offer a few suggestions in the form of adjustments, over the phone before taking it back to the shop. If it still does not work have that person take a look at the clock.
Do you have the correct pendulum? Other than the winding key, it seems to be the item that gets lost the most. If lost or misplaced, ensure you buy a pendulum that is correct for your clock. One too light may mean that it does not run at all, too heavy and the centre of gravity is lowered and the clock might run too slowly. Clock suppliers such asPerrin or Timesavers will have the correct pendulum for your clock.
Pendulum bob with an adjuster for a French time and strike
Something is broken? If there is no resistance when turning the winding key, the mainspring has broken or a click has let go. If the mainspring winds but releases in your hand, the most common cause is a broken or worn click spring. This is a repair that requires removing the movement from its case, taking it apart, and replacing the worn or damaged part. If you are skilled with that kind of repair, go ahead and fix it, if not, a specialist is required.
A loud BANG when you turn the key indicates the mainspring has broken or let go. It may not be as simple as replacing the mainspring. If the mainspring breaks it might have taken out other parts with it such as pinions and gear cogs. This is called collateral damage. An inspection and a full servicing of the movement is the only solution. Occasionally a broken mainspring is the only problem but the broken spring must come out of the barrel. Some movement designs allow the barrel to be removed without disassembling the mechanism. Whether the barrel is removable or not, a correct mainspring must be sourced to replace it and installed in the barrel which is a job for an expert.
The mainspring inside the barrel may also have become unhooked. This could occur if the clock was wound backward or if the hooked end of the mainspring is split or broken. To address this, the clock will need to be disassembled, the spring barrel opened, and the cause of the unhooking identified. In some cases, a replacement mainspring may be necessary.
For time and strike clocks with open mainsprings, the break may be on one mainspring or both. The clock must be completely disassembled, mainsprings replaced, the movement inspected for other issues, reassembled, and tested.
Sessions click, brass spring, and ratchet
Why does my weight-driven clock stop? Ensure that the weights are in their correct location. If it is a new acquisition of a grandfather clock the three weights have a specific location. Look underneath the weight shells for marks indicating their location “L”, left side, “C”, center and “R”, right side. If there are no markings, use a scale to determine the one that is the lightest weight and put that on the left side.
Ridgway grandfather clock
When bringing up the weights to the top of the clock be careful that they are not run past their stops. You should have a full view of the weights on a weight-driven clock once wound.
Antique Ogee clocks and other weight-driven shelf clocks often lack their original weights, as these have been lost or misplaced over time. Eight-day clocks typically have heavier 8 or 9 lb weights while 30-hour clocks have lighter 2 1/2 lb or 3 lb weights. Incorrect weights for these clocks will cause them to stop.
Is the weight cord or the brass cable binding in any way? The cord or cable should be just long enough to accommodate the weights. A cord or cable that is too long will bind while being wound and stop the clock.
Gustav Becker two-weight wall clock requires a winding crank
Some clocks like weight-driven Vienna Regulators can be adjusted by a transverse regulating screw assembly where the crutch inserts into a slot in the pendulum. Turning a screw in one direction or the other will correct the beat.
Final thoughts
In conclusion, if you encounter a unique issue not addressed here, it’s advisable to consult a professional clock repairer or someone with expertise in mechanical clock repairs. Working with mechanical clocks carries a certain level of risk, as the power stored in the mainsprings can cause injury if not handled carefully. On the other hand, weight-driven clocks generally present less risk.
Although this article may not cover every possible scenario, I hope it has provided you with a clearer understanding of your clock’s issue and how to approach its resolution.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
GJ writes
“My name is GJ and I live in Lancashire, England. When my father died I ended up with this clock! It works so we put it up on the hall wall for a while and years later redecorated and the clock no longer has a home, it just does not fit in with the surroundings. However, somebody will love it, but we don’t know who to contact in order to find someone who would buy it with a view to using it. Do you have any contacts in England that we could offer it to? It is a forlorn hope, but we have to try.”
My reply,
“High GJ. Thanks for coming to my blog. What you have is a New Haven American Victorian drop clock (made in USA). It is a time and strike clock which means that it strikes the appropriate time on the hour and strikes once on the half hour. It looks like it has good wood inlay and the dial face is original but you are missing two carved side wings and the original reversed painted glass door which would affect its value. I would keep it for sentimental reasons but it sounds like you are ready to part with it. I do not have any contacts in England but you could try Gumtree, eBay or your local clock-maker.”
GJ writes back.
“Hello again, Ron. Thank you for your reply. I will try to find a good home for my clock. Actually, now it has been dusted it looks a lot better! Thanks again for your information and help.”
This is Part II of a two part series in which I describe the final finishing of an Arthur Pequegnat Bedford clock case.
In Part I I described the challenges of repairing the clock case and the minor repairs to the movement.
In the first part of the series I also described how I acquired this Arthur Pequegnat mantel/shelf clock during my travels to Quebec this spring.
The red oak veneered clock is complete with pendulum bob, a good label on the inside back of the access panel, coil gong and of course, the signature time and strike Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates.
Nickle-plated plates with brass bushings
It is the “Bedford” model. Online research informs me that two Bedford models were produced. This one, which is the later version, measures 9 ¾ inches high by 8 ¾ inches wide by 5 ½ inches deep. It has a silvered 6 inch dial with Arabic numerals with no Pequegnat inscription on the bottom of the dial face, spade hands surrounded by a thick brass bezel and concave base moulding. It has a passing ½ hour strike on a coiled gong.
The earlier model has a 5 inch enameled dial with stylized Arabic numerals and Pequegnat inscription on the dial face, spade hands, oak veneered case, a thinner brass bezel and convex base moulding. The case measurements are identical. The time and strike movement differs from the later model by having a ½ hour passing strike on a bell.
If the dial is a replacement, it is a Pequegnat and someone took the trouble to install larger (and correct) spade hands
I initially thought that the larger dial might make this a one-of clock but after working on the case I am inclined to believe that the dial might be a replacement. I observed two sets of screw holes, one for the larger dial and one presumably for a smaller one. A factory switch or perhaps a clock-maker replaced the dial at a later time for whatever reason. After looking at a photo of the Bedford taken at the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario (Canada) you can easily see the smaller dial and thinner bezel.
Bedford clock on display at the Canadian Clock Museum
Arthur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock, assembled, cleaned and working but before case refinishing
I do not think the larger dial overpowers the look of the clock, in fact, it gives it a more contemporary presence. If the dial is a replacement, it is a Pequegnat and someone took the trouble to install correctly sized spade hands. Unfortunately, the previous owner is unaware of the difference.
The task of clamping and gluing the case took several days as each section of the case required attention. And now to the final finish.
Gluing and clamping took time
Before the case restoration. Yes, the clock was in sad shape.
Very dirty case with years of grime and no grain visible
After giving the case a good cleaning I applied one thin coat of Minwax red oak stain to hide the bare areas and rough edges. I let the stain sit for 5 minutes and wiped off the excess with a cotton cloth. I allowed the case to thoroughly dry for 24 hours before the first sanding. For the final finish I chose Minwax PolyWipe for two reasons, one, it is simple to apply since it is easily wiped on and secondly, I wanted to avoid the amber tone of a lacquer which might result in concealing the grain. I applied six coats of PolyWipe and used 400 grit emery paper between each coat.
After cleaning, sanding and two coats of PolyWipe this is the result.
After two PolyWipe applications
I am pleased that the grain came up very nicely, reminding me of what it must have looked like many years ago.
Finished clock, after 6 coats of PolyWipe
After six thin coats of PolyWipe the result is a revitalized finish that is durable, attractive and will last for years.
The brass door has me puzzled. What I thought was a broken hinge was actually folded into the bezel and soldered.
7/8 inch hinge is soldered back into the bezel
Why? I am reluctant to remove the solder because I risk breaking the glass by bending the retaining tabs. They are in very tight. As it stands the glass door will friction fit onto the dial bezel. Not the best but it will do for now. I will give it a second look, perhaps I can de-solder that hinge without removing the glass.
A project that is well worth the time and effort. It is always satisfying saving an old clock and bringing it back to life.
I acquired an Arthur Pequegnat mantel/shelf clock during my travels to Quebec this spring. The red oak veneered clock is complete with original hands, pendulum bob, a good label on the inside back of the access panel, coil gong and of course, the signature time and strike Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates.
Signature Pequegnat nickle-plated steel plates
It is known as the “Bedford” model. Online research tells me that two Bedford models were produced. This one, which I believe is the later edition, measures 9 ¾ inches high by 8 ¾ inches wide by 5 ½ inches deep. It has a silvered 6 inch dial with Arabic numerals with no Pequegnat inscription on the bottom of the dial face, spade hands surrounded by a thick brass bezel and concave base moulding. It has a passing ½ hour strike on a coiled gong. The earlier model has a 5 inch enameled dial with more stylized Arabic numerals and Pequegnat inscription on the dial face, spade hands, oak veneered case, a thinner brass bezel and convex base moulding. The case measurements are identical. The time and strike movement differs from the later model by having a ½ hour passing strike on a bell.
There is a good label on the inside of the access door which says, “Bedford, eight-day mantel clock, The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co., Kitchener, Ontario, Canada”.
The label is in good condition
The movement is not marked. Though many Arthur Pequegnat movements were stamped with the maker’s mark it is not unusual to find one without one. This edition was likely manufactured in the Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) plant between 1925 and 1930.
With click fixed the clock is tested
The only issue with the movement is the time side mainspring function which, as the previous owner explained, could not be wound with a key. Damaged top veneer and split-open side trim pieces tell me that the clock had accidentally fallen. The impact point appears to be the very top front of the clock. As a result of the impact the front panel had separated from the main part of the case, leaving a gap of about 1/8th of an inch. It also had a broken access door catch.
Damaged veneer sustained during a fall, veneer was later pushed back in place
At first I focused my attention on the movement and why the time side mainspring would not wind. It was, as I suspected, a missing click spring. The click is a pawl which engages the ratchet wheel to hold the power of the mainspring or the weight. It is moveable and connected to the mainspring by means of a rivet. The click spring is a piece of steel or brass wire which is connected to the click and seats the click in the ratchet wheel.
I had a supply of steel click springs and fashioned one to fit the click. The click, rivet and the ratchet wheel were in otherwise good condition. While the mainsprings was restrained with clamps I postioned the click spring in place applying a little solder to ensure that it remained fixed. An older similar repair occurred on the strike side with solder holding that click in place. A weak point of the movement, perhaps.
A little solder to keep the click spring in place
I inspected the movement for wear and discovered that it had been serviced previously. The solder on the strike side click was certainly a clue but I also noticed that some bushings had been replaced, not unusual given the age of the clock. Brass bushings were punched into the steel plates at the factory. I could see that newer bushings were installed in at least three locations.
There is no lateral movement in the gears as such lateral movement would indicate bushing or pivot wear. There is no evidence of ovalized, enlarged or mis-shapen bushing holes and the gears are meshing well. The movement is clean and free of dirt and debris and I do not feel that a full cleaning is warranted at this point. There is no excess blackened oil; the oil in the bushing holes had simply dried up. I applied clock oil to the bushings, wound both mainsprings and after days of running the movement is keeping excellent time.
With the movement out of the case, repaired and in the testing phase, I focused next on the condition of the oak veneered case. Many of the joints had separated due to the impact I mentioned earlier. Hide glue would have been used originally and could be used for case repair. I have medium strength pearl hide glue, not strong enough for this application. High strength is required to bring the trim pieces together to ensure a good long-lasting and tight fit. This is one of those occasions when a modern glue is an acceptable alternative. Yellow carpenters glue has a bonding power of two tons and I chose this type of glue for the repairs.
Each section had to be clamped for 24 hours and only one section could be worked on at a time. The result is a very time-consuming and complicated process lasting several days.
I used three clamps for one repair. Because the impact point was at the very top I had to push the sides in with a clamp while at the same time bring the front panel into the main part of the case using two clamps adjacent to each other. You can see the clamping method I employed in the next photo.
Using three clamps to bring the sides together and the front section into the case
The side base trim pieces were also split open and had to be clamped in place as you can see in the next photo.
Side trim pieces clamped
Bringing the sides of the case together resulted in raising the damaged veneer, consequently several small pieces of top veneer had to be pushed back into place. Using carpenters glue combined with an “elaborate” weight system I went about with the repair. Using a toothpick I applied carpenters glue under the veneer pieces, wiped off the excess with a wet cloth and used a block with a hole drilled to accommodate a toothpick employing enough pressure to push the small veneer pieces into place. It looks odd but it works.
Toothpick and wood piece to push the veneer in
A degreaser was used to strip years of blackened dirt/grease/grime on the case and once cleaned the original grain in the red oak veneer is now exposed to its former beauty. The case will either need a layer or two of lacquer or a more modern finish such as PolyWipe. I will cover this aspect of the restoration/repair in Part II.
Using Brasso I cleaned up years of tarnish on the brass bezel giving it a new life. I also polished the arbour grommets. The silvered dial face is in very good condition and I left that as-is.
Bezel cleaned up
I fashioned a new door catch out of a worn Sessions click.
Broken door catch was repaired using an old worn Sessions click
With the movement repaired and the successful clamping and gluing of the case the next phase is the final finishing. I am pleased that I am inching closer to bringing this clock back to life and can add it to my modest collection of Arthur Pequegnat clocks.
My Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator wall clock is 51 inches in length. It is a 2-weight regulator that runs on an eight day cycle. In order to bring the weights up I must open the access door and insert the winding crank into the arbours on the clock face. I then raise the weights to their highest safe level. During the process of opening the access door and winding the clock there is always the risk of moving the clock, disrupting the level thus creating a condition where it is out-of-beat. In short the stabilizers, located on each side, keep the case from shifting while winding the clock.
Clock-makers provided stabilizers on many clocks so that they would not move during regular winding or remain stable in the event of vibration or shock (accidentally bumping into it).
The stabilizer is usually about an inch in length, has a knurled brass knob on one end and is mounted on a brass or steel plate which is then fixed to the back of the clock case by means of wood screws.
Brass stabilizer
This is the right stabilizer on my Gustav Becker.
Right stabilizer
Junghans Crispi wall clock showing one of the stabilizers
If you find two small holes on either side of the back and near the bottom of the case of a wall clock you can bet that you are missing the wall stabilizers. You can order them from any clock supply house.
They not only complete the look of a wall clock but are functional as well. A very simple solution to a potentially frustrating problem.
Most knowledgeable clock enthusiasts in Canada instantly recognize the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company as one of Canada’s premier clock companies. Although the company went out of business over 75 years ago the Arthur Pequegnat name is still respected as a quality clock-maker.
The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company had an illustrious albeit short life. Watchmaker Arthur Pequegnat was born in Switzerland in 1851. Arthur immigrated to Berlin, Ontario Canada in 1874 with his wife, parents, brothers and sisters; a grand total of 18 family members.
Tall case clocks made by Arthur Pequegnat
By the late 1870’s Arthur was operating a jewelry store and watch repair in Southern Ontario. By the middle 1880’s Arthur and his brother Paul were operating a shop in Berlin, Ontario (now Kitchener). After about ten years the brothers went their own way, both operating successful jewelry shops in Southern Ontario.
Mantel clocks in all shapes and sizes
In 1897 Arthur expanded his Berlin Jewelry shop to include the manufacture of bicycles. However, by 1904, with the decrease in the demand for bicycles, Arthur began to re-focus on the clock industry, by manufacturing his own clock movements at his Berlin Bicycle Manufacturing plant. At first the wooden clock cases were made by local furniture makers, however in time he manufactured his own clock cases.
The Regulator #1, Pequegnats most accurate clock
Berlin, Ontario was re-named Kitchener Ontario in 1916, due to anti-German backlash during WW I. This becomes a useful tool when dating Pequegnat clocks as labels, movements or dials marked “Berlin” date the clock to 1916 or earlier and those marked “Kitchener” are 1916 or later. Having said that, many clocks had a long production life and it is difficult to date any Arthur Pequegnat clock precisely.
The company closed it doors in 1941. Although brass was in short supply as a result of the war effort, sagging sales reflected the demand for modern electric clocks.
Yes, a brief history but as any Canadian clock collector knows Arthur Pequegnat is still a “Big” name in the clock business.
As regular readers know I publish between 7 and 9 articles per month. I have been spending considerable time this spring putting ideas together and getting articles ready for the summer months so that there will be NO interruption in activity on this blog.
Since I spend quality time with friends and family and decompress at our summer get-away in central Canada I might be a tad slow getting back to you if you have questions about your clock or comments on any of my posts. I therefore apologize in advance.
Canada Clock Company Hamilton Cottage Extra, circa 1880, an interesting find in a junk shop
On my blog I typically profile my own clock collection, the challenges of maintaining and repairing clocks in my collection plus many articles of general interest. I often write about my personal observations during my travels and I always look for unique and interesting clocks as I navigate through the fascinating world of horology.
I hope you enjoy reading them as much as I enjoy the researching each article. I invite you to browse through my archive; there is always something that will interest clock lovers of all ages.
Over the next two months you will find exciting new articles and some helpful information on various clock issues. No doubt my summer adventures will produce new clock stories that will be the source of future articles. So, stay tuned as they say and if you like what you see let me know.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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