Among the most common parlor clocks, E.N. Welch clocks are relatively scarce. A key reason is that the company was absorbed by Sessions in 1903. The history of Welch is intriguing, as Welch, Spring & Co. initially focused on producing high-end clocks but eventually shifted to manufacturing cheaper, heavily discounted mass-market clocks—a move that likely contributed to its decline.
E. N. Welsh Whittier model
This time-and-trike American clock with a count wheel strike is an antique store find. I found it at what I would call a higher-end antique store in a small village in Quebec during one of our day travels from our summer cottage. I liked it so much I bought it. Because the strike side did not function there was a slight reduction in price.
The clock ran for several days and kept good time, but it was in desperate need of a cleaning. I was unable to get the strike side to run, though I hoped to fix it eventually. All the strike-side parts appeared to be present, but someone had clearly tampered with the levers, bending them significantly. It’s impossible to fully assess the situation until I take the movement apart.
Barely readable label and someone determined that this clock should be hung on a wall
History of E N Welch
The E. N. Welch Mfg. Co. was formed on July 6, 1864 to succeed an older private firm making clocks under the name of E. N. Welch. Elisha N. Welch (1809 to 1887) had been making clocks at a factory site on East Main Street at Forestville, Conn. since taking over the bankrupt business of J. C. Brown in about 1856.
A movement shop was established in 1869, adding to the two factories already in use by the firm. Between 1868 and 1884, a subsidiary firm called Welch, Spring & Company was formed to produce a more expensive line of clocks. The company was formed by three clock enthusiasts; Welch, Solomon Crosby Spring and Benjamin Bennet Lewis. The Welch firm was well known for its handsome rosewood cases, though in 1885, with changing styles in furniture, the surviving firm began to introduce new models with solid walnut cases and discontinued some of the older rosewood veneered cases.
Elisha Welch was enamored of a lovely (but very liberal-thinking) diva of the day from Spain by the name of Adelina Patti. He named his best quality movement after her, called the “Patti” movement. Clocks with this movement are highly sought after by serious collectors. However, Examples of “Patti” clocks at any of the international auction sites are rare.
After the death of Elisha Welch in 1887, the firm steadily declined, selling off some of its assets and issuing new stock to raise much needed capital. A new line of clocks was introduced for 1893, which were cheaper in quality than their already discounted line. In May of that year the factory was closed down and a receiver was appointed The receiver spent nearly two years selling off stock and settling the debts of the firm. It was not until 1896 that the firm resumed production.
In 1899, two fires, one in March and a second in December reduced most of the Welch manufacturing complex to ashes. Despite the completion of a new brick factory in 1900, the company could not meet its liabilities. Meanwhile, members of the wealthy Sessions family were buying out former stockholders and eventually took control of the firm in 1902. They changed the name to the Sessions Clock Company on January 9, 1903.
E. N. Welch clocks made before 1880 are considerably more desirable as these represent the height of the company’s clock-making. Clocks made before 1880 generally command higher auction prices. Compared to companies like Seth Thomas and Waterbury instances of E. N. Welsh clocks coming up on auction sites are becoming quite uncommon.
Stay tuned for more! In Part II, I will describe the Whittier and highlight some of its interesting features. In Part III, I will share my progress and discuss any challenges I encounter while servicing the movement.
We were making our way to Missouri after beginning our journey in Maine in early May (2017). We only had one very important stop along the way because for the past 5 years I have always wanted to see the NAWCC clock museum in Columbia, Pennsylvania. Ever since I seriously wrapped my head around clock collecting and repair my dream was to visit this museum. Getting there was no problem but Interstate traffic is truly a disaster! Unfortunately, we budgeted too little time for a thorough tour in the hour and a half we had but we saw as much as we could in that short time.
Waiting in a hot parking lot for the museum to open was not much fun. Couldn’t you just open the front doors a little earlier than 10:00am? To kill time we walked around the town of Columbia. It might be neat and tidy place and one of the “top twenty small towns to visit in America”, so the sign says, but like all small towns in America the decline is evident in the number of vacant storefronts and absence of activity in the streets.
Sign in Columbia Penn.
We finally got into the museum. We (my wife and I) were the first in and being a NAWCC member my wife and I got in free. During our time there we saw only one other couple. So, not a terribly busy time but there are likely peak periods in the summer.
I was wondering how I would describe my visit to the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors Museum in Columbia Pennsylvania on that day in May. It was wonderful and more than I had imagined. There is simply not enough time to see everything and take it all in. The museum is very well laid out and there are displays to please everyone.
Vienna Regulator with Grande Sonnerie movement
For me the highlight has to be Engels Monument Clock (see Youtube video below). There was only ourselves and one other couple at the time so we were happy that the staff were able to put on a real show for us. The staffer walked us through the history of the clock and followed with a fascinating demonstration. AS he did so I imagined what it must have like to attend a local fair and see this wonderful clock in action. The clock was exhibited around the country for 74 years and last displayed in 1951 at the Ohio State Fall.
There is an emphasis on American clocks as you would expect but there are excellent examples of French, German, English and Japanese clocks. There is a broad selection of tall case clocks all the way back to the 1700s The history of time was very interesting as are the interactive displays which I am sure would please any children visiting the museum.
In a later article I will post more photos.
Whether you are an avid collector or merely have a casual interest in clocks this is great place to visit.
While touring through the United States we had an opportunity to explore the “magic” of antique malls. Antique malls are typically located in former department stores such as Macys or JC Penny found in commercial areas of a town or city. Antique malls are an American cultural experience. They are not a unique experience for me as I have been in much smaller antique malls in Canada but this one was very BIG!
Dozens of vendor stalls
A particular example I will use is the Maumee Antique Mall located north of Toledo, Ohio. For the antique shopper the first impression is of a giant smorgasbord of antiques. Could I find a bargain given the huge selection of antique items? The Maumee Mall would have about 200 vendors or more. Each vendor would occupy a small 12X12 stall though some might have more than one stall.
It was a weekday and we did not expect to see a lot of shoppers; that was certainly the case on that particular Thursday. The mall is organized into aisles with plenty of antiques with no particular organization. If one were looking for crystal, for example, some stalls would have crystal and others a slightly better selection but there is no specific area of the mall that would have a concentration of any particular item. Front end staff in a check out area handle all the transactions. The mall is filled with security cameras so you are being watched at all times. There are also security staff disguised as shoppers who are present throughout the complex. A small snack bar invites the shopper to have a bite while finding that special item.
Always and I mean always ask for a discount
There are no discounts on items below a certain fixed value ($20 for instance). Some malls are authorized to offer a %10 discount without contacting the seller. Any further negotiation on price requires the mall staff to contact the vendor who may or may not be immediately available. If contacted, the sellers normally do not offer much more than the standard 10% discount. A bit of advice; in malls such as Maumee or any antique store for that matter, always and I mean always ask for a discount.
On this particular Thursday I was shopping for antique clocks. I found nothing that I would consider a “deal” that day. A typical gingerbread clock was in the US$175 to US$200 range, a mantel clock US$100 or more.
Appears to be a deal but this Gingerbread needs a lot of work
Interesting clocks but pricey
A Mauthe German box clock that was not in the best of shape was selling for US$299. In general, most clocks had serious issues such as missing hands, no pendulum, scuffed up or cracked cases and unreadable dials. Clock prices were 30% to 50% higher than you would find on eBay, any other auction site or your local mom and pop antique store. My wife was shopping for glassware & crystal and also found higher than average prices but managed to find a couple of nice items.
US$299 Mauthe time and strike wall clock
Why? High overhead is most certainly a factor. Staffing, security, and steep rental rates force the vendor to charge higher than normal prices. Malls such as this most certainly attract a customer base though I suspect not many are highly educated antique shoppers.
For the bargain shopper there are much better options in my opinion. The best bargains for clocks can be found on local community online for-sale sites where you can negotiate directly with the seller electronically or in person.
Call it a cultural experience but in my view you will not find great bargains at an antique mall. Your mileage may differ!
As a clock collector I have quite a few clocks in my home. Most are running daily. There are 34 clocks ticking away in my home as I write this blog article.
I have accepted them as normal sounds in my home
Some collectors have a dedicated clock room in their home but mine are scattered throughout the house. I try to arrange each one so that it fits more or less into the decor of the room. It is a big house and thankfully we have quite a few rooms in which I can display my clocks. I have all manner and styles of clocks including mantel, wall clocks, shelf clocks, carriage clocks, desk clocks, anniversary clocks but just one floor clock. My particular preference is wall clocks; I have 13 of them.
Kienzle clock on display with Ingraham Huron balloon style shelf clock
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator and Seth Thomas round top
Arthur Pequegnat Brandon in an upper hallway
Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock atop a Stromberg Carlson radio
So how do I put up with the cacophony of clock noises in the house? One, I thoroughly enjoy the sound of a mechanical clock and two, I have accepted them as normal sounds in my house.
However, there are rules in our house.
No striking or chiming clocks in or near the master bedroom.
No clocks in the bathrooms.
Clocks are stopped in those areas where guests are sleeping unless they do not object.
Are there clocks in the bedroom? Of course, three to be exact. Two are 400 day clocks like the one in the next photo and the third is a banjo clock.
9 inch miniature 400 day Kundo clock
The Ingraham Nordic banjo clock has a front-wind lever escapement and I would challenge anyone to hear this clock across a room. Is is no louder than an old alarm clock. The 400 day clocks are, of course, virtually silent.
We have a Mauthe box clock in our family room that makes such a wonderful sound that I actually pause the TV to listen to it
Ingraham Nordic Banjo Clock
This is my advice to those of you who love mechanical clocks but are bothered by the “noise”:
Some clocks are loud tickers and some are not. As a general rule American clocks tend to be much louder tickers than German or French clocks. Loud clocks should be placed in noisy areas
Avoid clocks that have a striking or a chiming train. If you are not fond of the sound of an hourly or quarter hour strike clock, simply search for a time-only clock.
Most chiming clocks (Westminster chimes are the most common) have a shut-off feature located on the dial face.
For time and strike clocks simply wind the time side only. However, purists would say that this is not good for the clock.
Carriage clocks, clocks with lever escapements (like the Nordic above) and 400 day clocks are exceptionally quiet and do not normally strike or chime (however, some carriage clocks do strike).
Locate your clocks in an area where you will not be bothered by them, a dedicated room, for instance.
Stop your clock or never wind it. Perhaps you can appreciate your clock as a piece of art or furniture rather than as a timepiece.
For the nostalgic, run your clocks only at certain special times of the year.
Mauthe Box clock
I rarely hear my clocks. Yes, I am aware of the ticking if I stop and listen. By and large I am not at all bothered by the sounds of my clocks. In fact, we have a Mauthe box clock in our family room that makes such a wonderful bim-bam sound that I actually pause the TV to listen to it.
Regulating your clock is the process of making repeated, precise adjustments to its mechanism with the goal of enhancing its accuracy and ensuring it functions as a reliable timekeeper over an extended period.
The running of your mechanical clock is influenced by three key factors: neglect, friction, and the environment. These elements will determine whether your clock can maintain accurate timekeeping. The article ends with tips on regulating your clock and the effects of mainspring power on timekeeping.
Let’s look at each factor.
Neglect
Neglect is easy to understand: without proper care, a clock will lose its reliability as a timekeeper. Placing a clock in a sunny spot, especially in a hot window, can cause the case to age prematurely and dry out the movement. Setting a clock near a heat source, like a heating vent, can affect its performance. Transporting a weight-driven clock without securing the weights can result in broken case parts and shattered glass. Moving a pendulum clock without removing the pendulum can cause internal damage.
Additionally, turning the hands backward should be avoided unless the manufacturer specifically permits it in the clock’s instructions.
Using a winding crank
Friction
Each moving part of a clock must be in optimal condition. The gear train should move freely, but excess friction will negatively impact the clock’s performance. Regular lubrication is crucial to prevent this. Friction causes wear, and over time, wear can lead to costly and time-consuming repairs. As bushing wear accelerates, the clock’s functionality will deteriorate, eventually causing it to stop.
Close-up of bushing wear; the pivot hole is oval when it should be circular
It’s good practice to inspect your clock’s movement every year or two and add oil if the pivots are dry. If you notice a buildup of thick, dirty oil around the pivot holes during your inspection, it’s time to service the clock’s movement. This can be done either by you, if you have the necessary skills, or by a clock specialist.
Six bushings installed on the back plate of a Sessions Westminster A mantel clock movement
Once the lubricating oil is used up or dries out the clock continues to run but the wheels are running without lubrication in their pivots holes. Once the pivot holes are enlarged (see above) the gears begin to run too deep into each other and the clock eventually stops. In clock circles the proper function of one gear operating with another, smoothly is referred to as “meshing”. Once wear becomes a factor, winding the springs no longer helps, as the springs lack sufficient power, or the gears fail to mesh properly, preventing them from overcoming friction in the gear train.
This leads some owners to think the clock is stopping due to being “over-wound,” when in reality, it’s simply worn out, or there is so much debris and dried oil in the mainspring that it sticks and refuses to unwind.
Preventative maintenance can help avoid costly repairs.
Servicing a clock is a separate topic altogether but black or green oil around or in the pivot holes is an indication that re-oiling will be ineffective; dis-assembly and cleaning of the movement is necessary.
Mixing old, dirty clock oil with new oil will speed up wear, and adding more oil won’t improve its performance.
Environment
Changes in the ambient temperature of your environment will affect it’s timekeeping rate. It is quite common to make seasonal adjustments to your clock. If you are in a temperate climate such as my part of the world, humidity, and temperature changes have a noticeable effect on the rate-keeping of any clock. Increasing the ambient temperature will slow it down, from the expansion and lengthening of the pendulum rod (unless it has a compensating type pendulum).
Clocks perform better in the more controlled environment of a home, but damp basements, window sills, bathrooms, areas above heating elements or vents, garages, and other humid spaces are unsuitable for mechanical clocks. Harsh environments can damage both the movement and the case, leading to issues like cracks, fading, and detached veneer in addition to a myriad of problems with the movement.
Pendulum bob with regulating adjustment
Regulating your Mechanical Clock
Regulating a clock often means making incremental changes to the length of the pendulum by means of a rate adjustment screw located at the end of the pendulum, or as in the case of a French clock pendulum (above) a rating screw inside the bob. Turning the rating screw clockwise shortens the pendulum (faster) and counterclockwise lengthens (slower) it.
Usually, one full turn of the screw means adding or subtracting a minute per week. To simplify the process some clocks have a rate adjustment arbour on the dial, typically at the 12 o’clock position. That way you do not have to open the access door at the back of the clock to adjust the rating nut on the pendulum.
Rate adjustment arbor
If you have a double-ended key, the smaller end is used for the rate adjustment arbour. The “S” (slow) and “F” (fast) settings correspond to adjusting the clock’s speed—slowing it down or speeding it up. Clocks may have either one of these adjustments, but sometimes both (adjustable pendulum and rate adjustment arbor), as on this French shelf clock.
French mantel clock
Rate adjustment is a trial-and-error process and typically takes a week or longer. If you can adjust your mechanical clock within a minute or two per week you are doing well. You will gradually gain a feel for the kind of adjustment required to regulate your particular clock.
Clocks without pendulums are those that have lever escapements, floating balance escapements, or balance wheel escapements. Regulation is achieved by moving a lever from slow to fast (as indicated on a wheel for instance) or adjusting weights in one direction or another on the escape wheel. There are specific directions on how to this and it is best to consult the instruction manual on your clock or search for resources online.
Mainspring Power and Regulation
When winding a spring-driven clock you are winding a sturdy coiled metal spring. The mainspring is an energy storage system or a power source. When you turn the key the winding gets tighter until you cannot turn the key any further. This stored energy (or potential energy) is now ready to be released but because a clock has reduction gears and an escapement (method for energy to escape) the energy is designed to be released at a steady and controlled rate. The purpose of the gear train is to convert the slow rotation of the main wheel into the faster rotation needed to tell the time. Each wheel in the train turns faster than the previous one.
A spring-driven clock tends to release most of its energy at the beginning of a cycle and releases less energy towards the end of it’s winding cycle which is typically an 8-day period. Most clocks will run longer than eight days but will lose more time as the spring supplies less power.
Regulating some spring-driven clocks can be challenging due to the way they release their power, though this can vary depending on the clockmaker. If your vintage or antique spring-driven mantel or wall clock is accurate to within 1-2 minutes per week, it’s performing quite well.
Sessions Beveled No 2 tambour style clock and French carriage clock
My Sessions time and strike tambour-style clock typically runs about one minute fast at the start of the week and around one minute slow by the end of the week. This is normal.
This one-weight Vienna wall clock is accurate to within 30 seconds a week
On the other hand, weight-driven clocks are more accurate since they release power at a constant rate through the winding cycle. Weight-driven clocks are generally more reliable timekeepers and are easier to regulate.
Junghans Crispi wall clock with compensating pendulum
Neglect, friction, and environmental factors play a significant role in a clock’s ability to keep accurate time. By ensuring proper maintenance, placing your clock in a location free from heat and humidity, and regularly checking for adequate lubrication, you can extend its lifespan, maintain its value, and enjoy dependable performance for years to come.
Carole Ann Bennett of Ottawa, Canada asked me to profile her latest clock acquisition which was bought at auction and advertised as a triple-decker clock. It is, in fact, a column and cornice clock.
Seth Thomas column and cornice
This lovely Seth Thomas time and strike eight-day weight-driven column and cornice clock with hour strike features a mahogany veneer case with cove molded crest, ¾ columns in painted gold and two reverse painted doors opening to the interior clock works which reveals a tin painted dial and the original printed and illustrated Seth Thomas clock makers label. It is 32″ tall, 18″ wide and 5“ deep.
The painted tin Roman Numeral dial has hand-decorated flower spandrels in all four corners with the centre portion of the brass lyre movement visible though the dial.
Brass lyre movment
There is a small amount of chipping around the winding holes and face mounts. The hour and minute hands are in an Ogee style and original to the clock. The movement is clean and running well.
Painted tine dial face
The upper tablet has a hand-painted fruit bowl framed within a clear rectangular section with an onion top surround by a gold laurel design. The lower tablet shows a headless eagle framed in an clear oval centre with clustered gold berry spandrels in all 4 corners and encircling the oval section is a gold wreath made of berries and leaves. The headless eagle has clawed feet, one holding a sheaf of arrows while the other holds what appears to be a holly bush. There are 13 stars above the wings presumably representing the original 13 colonies. There is the expected amount of flaking consistent with the age of the clock which seems to disappear when the doors are closed. The missing paint areas blend into the remaining design and look good in spite of the minor issues. A red banner runs through the centre. It appears to be a very loose interpretation of the eagle on the presidential seal.
Upper tablet
Lower tablet
My first impression is that the top and bottom tablets are not a match because of the different themes on each panel however the blue paint is identical.
It has a very good interior label with the name J. M. Paterson, Hamilton, Canada West which appears to have been pasted over an original label.
Canada West, previously known as Upper Canada, formed one-half of the British colony of the Province of Canada. The region was governed jointly along with Canada East (formerly Lower Canada) from 1841 to 1867, when Canada West became the province of Ontario under Confederation. This would put the clock between 1841 and 1867.
More research is required. Below the added label are instructions for the operation of the clock. It has newer 6 ¾ lb cast iron replacement weights which are correct for an eight-day clock. The pendulum is a replacement as the original would have had a rate adjustment screw as per the last line of the instructions.
Clock instructions and label
Minor areas of paint around the main designs on the top and lower tablets are beginning to flake, however most of the original paintwork shows very well. The case has some scuffs and a little veneer chipping as one would expect. The deep grained mahogany veneer adds to the overall look of this big and beautiful shelf clock.
There are newer softwood strips attached by Robertson screws on the top and very bottom of the back of the case which appear to have been added either as a repair or to strengthen the case. There are 4 holes on the backboard just below the movement which may indicate the presence of an alarm mechanism at one time.
All in all it is a good looking clock that reflects the period and a fine acquisition.
It this day and age it is very common to have family scattered to the four winds. What time is it is such and such? Why not create timezone clocks? I live in Canada and I have one daughter in Calgary, Alberta, one of our mid-western provinces and one in Victoria, BC, on the west coast of Canada. We keep in touch with Skype and telephone and as I am working on my computer in the kitchen area of my home all it takes is one glance upwards to see what time it is in Calgary or Victoria.
This is my trio of clocks. The two on either side are eight inch while the centre clock has a 12 inch dial. The centre clock is a New Haven time and strike from the 1930s taken out of a decommissioned school house in Saskatchewan in the 1950s. My aim is to have three 8 inch dial clocks. Once I find another 8 inch time-only clock the New Haven will be replaced.
New Haven time and strike clock
Waterbury Arion drop octagon
I later painted three numerals
The clock on the left is a Waterbury Arion. It came to me without glazing and bezel but ordering a replacement was easy enough through a clock supplier, Perrin in Canada. While writing this blog I decided to touch-up the 7, 8, and 9 numerals. It is the quietest of the three clocks.
The one on the right is Sessions Drop Octagon. The dial face is in rough shape but I decided to leave it as-is. The clock came from a decommissioned schoolhouse in Springhill, Nova Scotia in the 1960s.
Sessions Drop Octagon
It is by far the noisiest of the three but you get used to the sound. All three will be time-only clocks, preferred if you are looking for the dedicated function of simply telling the time. Of the three my favorite is the Waterbury. Even with the “messed-up” dial face, it is the most accurate of the three and will run for 12-15 days on a single wind.
Keeping track of family all over the country is part of being a normal modern family and timezone clocks certainly help.
I did not have a banjo clock in my collection and my latest acquisition is certainly a banjo styled clock but not in the tradition of a true weight-driven American banjo clock which continues to allude me.
There is no scarcity of spring driven recoil escapement (lever escapement) banjo clocks. This particular clock has a balance wheel/hairspring escapement which Ingraham calls a “marine” movement.
Balance wheel/hairspring movement
This is the Nordic, one of a series of small, hairspring banjos that Ingraham produced in the late 1920s and 1930s. The Nordic is one of three that Ingraham introduced during the aforementioned period, the others being the Norfolk and The Norway. In the mid 1920s it would have cost about $11.00.
Nordics come up occasionally on EBay and seem to be very desirable if in very good condition. Often the throat or bottom tablet is cracked or missing and the clock face is distressed in some fashion. This particular clock is in exceptional condition for its age and shows very well. It is both diminutive and attractive.
Marine movements were (and are) very accurate eight day lever movements which are key wound and key regulated. It is wound from the front unlike Gilberts and others that must be taken down from the wall to be wound. The movements are constructed with extra heavy brass plates, steel cut pinions, a double roller escapement and are made to last.
Reverse glass nautical scene
The case is described by Ingraham as having a “fine rubbed mahogany finish”. Fake done nicely!
These movements are not commonly found outside the confines of a case. They were also used in other Ingraham wall clocks. Tran Duy Ly’s book on Ingraham Banjo marine movement clocks shows them from the 1927 catalog.
Clock face showing silvered dial and press-fit hands
A Handsome Ingraham Banjo Clock
Both the hour and the minute hand are “pressed-on” friction fit. It has solid brass side arms, brassed eagle and a circular finish silver-plated dial with a non-tarnish-able gilt sash. Framed glass panels with coloured ship scene and floral throat complete the look. It is 26 inches in length. It lacks a label which would normally be affixed to the back of the clock.
As the most inexpensive of banjo clocks many homes could have one to avoid the higher cost (though higher quality) of a weight driven banjo clock.
Do you like the challenge of working on a mechanical clock? This one might have you ripping your hair out. These are not the best clocks to start on and can be a headache for the experienced clock-maker.
You will find Part I of this project here and Part II, here.
#1 Refinishing the case while movement is on the test bench
In August 2015 I wrote, “This a good project clock that is not for the inexperienced. As I gain more knowledge I will tackle this fascinating clock.” Well the time is now
With a little experience under my belt it time to tackle this vintage circa 1931 Sessions Westminster A chiming clock.
I had removed the movement from it’s case in 2015 to replace a bad click since the mainsprings can be easily removed without dis-assembly. The click holds the tension or power of the mainspring and is identified by a clicking sound when the key is turned on the winding arbour. Although I have not run the clock much since then the click is holding up well.
#2 Six bushings on back plate, 7 total (one not shown)
The movement required a total of 17 bushings. There was some movement of the pivots in the pallet arbour bushing holes, not enough to be overly concerning but they were addressed during servicing.
I was unable to pull the centre cam off because I do not have a puller which was unfortunate as the hole might have called for a bushing.
#3 Centre shaft cam
#4 Gathering pallet pins, also showing two racks
I was also unable to pull the arbour for the gathering pallet pins. It also might have needed a bushing though luckily I was able to bush one end. I mentioned in Part II that parts that are pressure fit on any movement are frustrating when said parts cannot be removed without special tools. Fortunately I was able to hand pull other chiming/striking parts off this movement.
#5 All parts in except the minute / hour canon
#6 Old spring on rack and new brass spring ready for the second rack.
There are two racks on this clock (see photo #4). One rack was missing it’s retaining spring. I made a new one out of brass wire. The clock was not striking properly and this small, seemingly inconsequential part might be the reason.
It shows very well for a vintage 86 year old clock
Between re-assembling the movement and testing of the time side I had an opportunity to address the finish on the case. I used a wood stain to hide scuffs and nicks, applied 5 coats of Minwax Satin Wipe-on Poly using 1500 grit emery cloth between coats to bring up the finish. Although not quite the deep luster of a clock coming out of the factory it shows very well for a vintage 86 year old clock. Purists might argue that I am using a modern finish on a classic clock but I don’t mind since the clock was found in a dusty old barn and cost me only $25.00.
Robert Croswell’s guide for the Sessions Westminster A clocks is excellent
The dial bezel was polished using Brasso.
#7 Re-finished case
Five Days Later
The clock has been running for a few days and I am satisfied that the time side is functioning well. I can now proceed with the strike and chime side, following Robert Croswell’s excellent manual.
One Week Later
The time is running well and I am getting a full cycle (8 days+) however I am still having issues with the strike side. It manages the quarter hours as it should, 4 strikes on the quarter, 8 on the half, 12 on the three quarter and 16 on the top of the hour. However it is obvious (to me) that I do not have the hour strike sequence set up properly. Robert Croswell’s guide for the Sessions Westminster A clocks is excellent but I am having difficulty understanding how the racks, and there are two, and the snails, again two, are set up.
Stay tuned, I know I will solve this little annoyance eventually.
The clock is a “Canadian made” New Haven Octagonal short drop wall clock. It was assembled at The New Haven Clock Co. of Canada plant established at Brantford, Ontario (Canada) in 1906.
New Haven schoolhouse clock
The New Haven Clock Company of Canada was a subsidiary of the New Haven Clock Company of America. Both mantel and wall clocks were made in the Brantford plant with Canadian wood cases, but the spring-driven pendulum movements were brought in from the U.S. The Canadian arm of the New Haven Clock Company closed in 1956. More information about The New Haven Clock Company can be found here. This clock was probably made in the 1940s.
The clock was removed from a schoolhouse in Saskatchewan, Alberta (Canada) in the 1960s. The previous owner said that he ran the clock for a couple of years, got tired of it and put it in storage. I hung it up on my kitchen wall for a couple of months and while it ran immediately and kept good time I considered putting off servicing with other projects on the go. However, if I ran it long enough without proper attention any wear would be exacerbated. Now is the time to service this clock.
Day One
The movement was mounted with what looked like the 4 original screws. I wondered if this movement had ever been serviced. Clues began to reveal themselves as I took the movement out for a closer inspection.
New Haven movement #304
The centre cannon arbour was very loose which is not uncommon. A bushing might be required. The pivots were in good shape and had minimal wear but most bushing holes on both the time and the strike side, front and back plates were so enlarged that there was considerable lateral movement of the wheels in both trains but not enough to stop the clock. Not the worst I have seen but clearly a clock that is in dire need of servicing. The clock ran for many years and appeared to have received not much more than basic servicing during that time.
Day Two
The movement was very dirty. The cleaning solution in the ultrasonic cleaner was dark brown in colour and large pieces of crud floated on top, a build up of dried oil and dust over the years.
An obvious example of a previous repair was the drop lever that had been soldered in two places as you can see in the photo below.
Top view of movement indicating solder points
The lever looks strong and should hold for years to come.
Strike side maintenance / drop lever
I took special care to resist bending any parts of the lever to adjust it for fear of breaking it. The helper wire/spring on the drop lever also seemed to have been replaced at some point because it looked crudely made, not something you would see in a factory installed movement. A piece of the helper wire broke off during dis-assembly which meant that I had to make a new wire/spring.
I polished the pivots and then proceeded with the bushing work prior to cleaning the movement.
Bergeon Bushing Machine
15 bushings were installed, 7 on the front plate and 8 on the rear plate. The centre cannon arbour required one bushing, a much larger one, on the rear plate.
To completely eliminate any issues with the time side I took all the strike train wheels out
Movement on test stand without strike side wheels
Without strike side wheels
Day Three to day Five
All went well while test fitting the wheels on both trains; they moved as smoothly as they should. I re-assembled the movement and attempted to align the levers on the strike side as best as I could with little success. I ran the movement on the test stand even though the drop lever was not positioned correctly. Unfortunately, the clock stopped every few hours. My suspicion was an incorrectly aligned lever somehow stopping the strike side.
To completely eliminate any issues with the time side I took all the strike train wheels out and ran the time side for 3 trouble-free days eliminating any issues with the motion works.
I consulted Steven Conover’s excellent book on strike clock movements (Striking Clock Repair Guide) to work through a solution. He devotes one chapter to the New Haven movement and clear instructions for setting up the strike side.
Day 6
After studying Steven’s manual, I reinstalled the strike side and proceeded with the necessary adjustments as follows.
The positioning of the levers are critical.
The 3 levers of the New Haven movement
There are 3 levers in this clock. Knowing how the levers function is key to getting this clock to run. The hammer strike lever (Lever number 1) performs a very simple task and installs on the bottom of the clock and is activated by the hammer lifting pins on the cam wheel. The drop and paddle lever (Lever number 2) does several jobs in unison. It pushes the unlocking lever or the lift lever (Lever number 3) down to release the warning pin to prepare the strike. The top arm of the lever number 2 rotates through the 2 – 180 degree slots of the cam while the bottom arm forms the paddle that enters the deep slots of the count wheel to indicate the strike on both the hour and half hour. The upper arm of this lever must be on the upper rear part of the slot on the cam to work correctly. I found this through trial and error. Needless to say, the positioning of the levers are critical. Once the levers were positioned correctly, the clock ran beautifully.
Post assembly testing
The clock went through it’s full 8-day cycle without any issues striking as it should. The movement was mounted back into it’s case, is being regulated and is now on display in our living room.
This very ordinary clock reflects its utilitarian role as a schoolhouse clock; it is not the best looking or the best sounding clock in the world but like a faithful servant it should run without issues for years to come.
Seth Thomas Adamantine time and strike mantel clock
I am servicing the first antique clock I ever bought. After having serviced many others it is time to give this clock a little love.
Some years ago (2000) my wife and I were traveling around Nova Scotia and stopped in a little village called Blockhouse. We found an antique store, walked in and never intended to buy an antique clock that day but left with an American Seth Thomas Adamantine mantel clock. It looked like it was worth many more times than we paid for it. We left the store thinking we had stolen it.
My research revealed that thousands were made and the price we paid at the time likely reflected its true value. The clock came home and sat on top of our piano and looked great. For a couple of years I wound it up religiously and marveled at its beautiful marbleized case and the sound of the gong on the hour and the bell on the half hour. I stopped winding it, let it sit on the piano and ignored it. About 5 years ago as I began to build my collection of vintage and antique clocks I wound it up and have kept it running ever since.
These clocks have become known to collectors as “Black Mantel Clocks”, and were popular from 1880 to 1931. Adamantine veneer was developed by the Celluloid Manufacturing Company of New York City, and was covered by U.S. Patent dated September 7, 1880. Seth Thomas Clock Company purchased the right to use the Adamantine veneer in 1881. At that time Seth Thomas stamped the year of manufacture on the bottom of each case. Though somewhat difficult to read the date on this particular clock is 1907.
Re-assembled and tested
Each clock I added to my collection needed some work and so I left the ST thinking that one day I would service it. Despite the fact that I kept it oiled, displayed it in a relatively dry dust free environment, it needed a good cleaning and a little bushing work.
Once you take a movement out of its case you begin to discover it’s little secrets. I immediately noticed a stripped speed regulating gear. The regulator arbour runs through the plates and is connected to the pendulum hanger to slow or speed up the clock. The rate adjustment is on the front of the clock and the smaller end of a double-sided key is used to speed and slow down the clock. I observed a rate adjustment screw on the pendulum bob. The “newer” bob had evidently been added at some point in the clock’s life to replace the stripped gear. The other possibility is that it might have had both. I have seen French clocks with both a front rate adjustment and an adjustable bob.
Regulating gear is stripped
The movement was taken apart and the parts were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Back of movement showing
Bushing wear was not an excessive but enough to justify installing 4 bushings; S2 front, T2 front, and escape wheel, both front and back plates. Putting the movement back together is relatively easy though it is always frustrating positioning the helper springs and levers in place as you move the pivots into their holes. It takes me a few attempts to get the strike side gears and levers correctly aligned. The stop wheel, stop lever, maintenance lever and count wheel hook take a little trial and error and it not something I have managed to get right the first time.
Seth Thomas clock face
Once back together the movement was oiled and placed back into it’s case. It should run reliably for years to come. Save for a slight aging of the clock face the clock is in excellent original condition.
Antique Seth Thomas Adamantine clocks look great on any mantel.
I am always intrigued by the language of the clock world. Here are some terms that I have learned in the past year.
Foxing:
Clock face showing brown staining
This is a more common problem than I thought. It is unsightly feature of clock dial faces and might be a cause for concern to some collectors. This phenomenon is caused by mold growth on paper in high (over 50%) humidity. Over time the brown spots coalesce to form large areas of brown. Treatment with chlorine bleach is probably ill-advised, because it will cause metal corrosion. CLR is also not recommended because CLR is an acid. Paper conservators treat this with sodium boro-hydride, or with borax (which needs to be washed out).
Verdigris:
Bright bluish-green encrustation
Verdigris is a bright bluish-green encrustation or patina formed on copper or brass by atmospheric oxidation, consisting of basic copper carbonate. You can see the greenish hue on the back of this century old antique carriage clock. Immersing the movement pieces in diluted Horolene is said to be one effective solution.
End Shake
End Shake is a term used to describe the movement of the pivot within a pivot hole. If the pivot is too tight there will excessive friction and the clock will not run. There must be some perceptible end-play (end shake) and when released the arbor should drop back down to rest against the bottom plate. A too tight pivot hole can be remedied with a smoothing broach available at any clock supplier.
“Normandy Chimes” are reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy, France
Normandy strike
A clock, made by Gilbert, that strikes the hours and halves on two chime rods. Gilbert called this the “Normandy Chime” as it was reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy (Corneville) in France and it was the precursor to the Bim-Bam clock.
Harfen gong
A patented 4-hammer gong by Gustav Becker that has four rods tuned to give a medium-deep “harp” sound when struck, the origin of the gong name “Harfen (Harp) Gong”. The Gong Base has “Oest. Pat” cast into the metal showing the specific patent for this design was Austrian.
Pilasters
Columns or posts that are found on the sides of a tall shelf clock or tall clock running vertically. These are decorative, but also add strength to the cabinet.
Tribology
The study of friction, wear, lubrication, and the design of bearings; the science of interacting surfaces in relative motion. This is the reason why engine oil and many other kinds of oil should not be used on a clcok. Engine oil is designed to be hydrophilic (absorb or dissolve in water) and coat internal parts which is the opposite of what clock oil is designed to do.
Spandrels
The almost triangular space between one side of the outer curve of an arch found on clock faces.
Four spandrels surrounding the chapter ring on this Hermle bracket clock
Rathburn Bushings
Bushing a clock without disassembling is never a good thing. For most purposes Rathburn Bushings are no-no and for those who are really desperate they are at best, a band-aid treatment. I have read about them and seen photos but have never actually seen one in a clock but for about $8 on that old familiar auction site you can buy a package of 10. To install, one places a Rathburn bushing over a worn pivot hole and screw or solder onto the plate. Not my preferred choice for clock repair.
Helper springs
I am clear on the function of helper springs/wires but what I have learned is that the gauge of wire is a function of where the spring is located on the movement. Let’s begin by describing the purpose of helper springs. They might look like they have been added later but they are actually part of the original manufacture and their purpose is to maintain tension on lifting levers, locking levers and hammers. What I did not realize until recently is that the gauge of wire is important for the amount of strength required for a particular lever. Lower gauge (thicker) wire is used for hammer levers because it is stronger and more tension is required to strike the gong/rod and higher (thinner) gauge wire is used for maintenance levers which require less tension. In the photo below you can see a thin helper wire that looks like it was wound by hand (not by me) on the lever arbor.
Helper wire (indicated by arrow) for Sessions movement
Chinoserie: is the European interpretation and imitation of Chinese and East Asian artistic traditions, especially in the decorative arts, garden design, architecture, literature, theater, musical performances and clocks. The pagoda style bonnet in this Scottish made Hugh Gordon long-case clock is a good example of a chinoserie influence.
Hugh Gordon long-case clock in the Chinoserie style
There you have it. These are just a few of the terms I learned in the past year. Clock collecting and repair is such a fascinating hobby; it expands ones vocabulary and is a source of new and interesting words every day.
You bought a clock. It ran when you first saw it but you bring it home, display it in that very spot you imagined and now it won’t run. 99% of the time this is caused by a clock not being in beat. All mechanical clocks must be set in beat before they will run properly.
Sessions time and strike
I make no attempt to explore the idiosyncrasies of various designs of clock movements. Much of the following information can be found at the forum site of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, NAWCC . At this site there are additional tips on adjusting the beat of 400 day clocks, weight driven Vienna style clocks and so on.
When a clock is out of beat, it will either not run at all, or it will run for a short time and then stop
What does the term “beat” mean?
Make sure your clock is on a level surface. Listen to the tick and the tock of your clock. Try to minimize the sounds in the room you are in so that you can listen closely to it’s rhythm. It is in beat when its ticks and tocks are even….tick…tock…tick…tock…, and is out of beat when they are uneven, either, ticktock…. or tocktick…… Put another way, there will be an equal amount of time between the ticks and the tocks. When a clock is out of beat, it will either not run at all, or it will run for a short time and then stop. It is worth repeating that a clock’s beat must be regular to work properly.
Gilbert calendar clock, the Admiral
There are two ways to put a clock in beat. The first is to tilt the clock sideways, one way or the other, and listen for the beat to even out. When the beat is even, prop the clock to stay tilted that way. Now it will run in beat but it will obviously not look good.
The second way is to adjust the crutch to one side or the other, until the beat is even. The crutch is the rod that extends down from the pallets which rock back and forth on the escape wheel. The pendulum rod passes through either a loop (called a crutch loop) or a forked foot at the end of the crutch as indicated in the photo below. Incidentally, that rod needs to be in the middle of the crutch loop and can’t be tight inside the loop nor too loose. The crutch is attached to the pendulum leader which is then attached to a post with a suspension spring.
Mantel clocks have rear access doors that allow you to adjust the crutch, however for wall clocks you will have to remove the hands (the minute hand is released by a screw or a pin, the hour hand simply pulls off) and the dial face, also attached by screws that come off to reveal the movement. However,minor adjustments to the beat of a wall clock can be preformed by simply moving the clock off-level. It may not be noticeable if the clock is not quite level.
There is no need to take the movement out of its case to perform this procedure.
American New Haven time and strike movement taken out of its case
If the crutch is a simple rod or wire as in the photo, it is adjusted by bending it to one side or the other (left or right). The brass rod is quite pliable allowing you to re-adjust if necessary. Listen to the beat as you make the adjustments and when you have a steady tick-tock the clock is in beat.
There us nothing as pleasant or soothing as the sound of a ticking mechanical clock in a room.
If it attaches to the pallets with a friction joint, it is adjusted by holding the pallets still with one hand, and shifting (pushing) the crutch right or left on the friction joint. The adjustment may be very slight in either direction.
Time only German movement for a Blackforest shelf clock
You need only to do this once. Whether your clock is a wall clock, a mantel clock, time and strike, time-only or time, strike and chime, the principles are exactly the same. There is no need to take your clock to a professional to have it “fixed”. This is definitely a do-it-yourself procedure. It’s that simple!
There is nothing as pleasant or soothing as the sound of the rhythmic ticking of a mechanical clock in a room especially if it is in beat.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
This is a Sessions Westminster A mantel clock made in Forestville Conn. The first year of production for this model was 1927. This particular clock was made in October of 1930 and features minor improvements to parts of the chime / strike train. Between 1903 and 1933 Sessions produced this and 51 other models of mechanical clocks, ranging from Advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or regulator clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home. Many of the Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors.
Everything seems to working very well with my clock except for the chimes which seem to have a rather peculiar problem
JD writes. “I stumbled across your WordPress blog about your Sessions Westminster clock and thought I’d reach out as I’m in the process of finally getting mine running. Everything seems to working very well with my clock except for the chimes which seem to have a rather peculiar problem. The hourly chimes work great. Full Westminster, then the correct number of hour strikes. The half hour chimes are also correct. The problem is that the quarter hour & three-quarter chimes are reversed. The quarter hour has 12 notes and the three-quarter hour has only 4. I haven’t even taken the movement out of it’s case yet, and at this point I’m just trying to figure out what the problem might be, and how complicated it may be to resolve it. This is one of about a dozen old clocks that my father had in his collection when he passed away, all of which I had been led to believe were non-functional. I’ve got ten of them running and would like to get an idea what I’m up against with this peculiar problem. Thanks in advance for any insight you may be able to offer.”
Sessions Westminster chime circa 1931
Co-incidentally I have been working on the same clock. Mine also had issues with the strike and chime sequence. I received JDs letter prior to working on my Westminster A mantel clock so I could not advise him on his specific issue but hope to share my experience with him once I have completed work on it.
The Sessions Westminster A mantel clock was made in Forestville Connecticut, USA. The first year of production for this model was 1927. Between 1903 and 1933 Sessions produced 52 models of mechanical clocks, ranging from advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or “Regulator” clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home. Many of the Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors. Having a unique and innovative design, the Westminster A is particularly sought after.
Westminster mainspring
My reply was. ” Thanks for your letter JD. I have yet to tackle this clock and know that it is not a good clock for the novice clock repair person to work on. If you have the skill-sets to have worked on other clocks then you are prepared for this one. I have attached a detailed guide which will help you through the servicing of this clock. It was prepared by Robert Croswell a member of NAWCC. One thing I should mention. The clicks are very weak on this clock and click failures are common. I need not remind you that when clicks fail they may also take parts of a clock with them. If you decide to tear it apart, do yourself a favour and replace the clicks. I have a number of clocks that I have to service before I get to the Westminster A. Let me know how you are progressing with the clock and any insights you can pass along to me.”
Drum and hammers on a unique two train chiming clock
I attached Robert Croswell’s excellent manual called Taming the Sessions 2-Train clock.
JD wrote back, “Thank you very much for the reply, and especially for the very helpful guide. I also asked the question on JustAnswer.com and received a helpful response from a clock repairer who said that the chime correction cam that is behind the locking plate needs to be rotated 180 degrees after it chimes the 12 notes, to the 3/4 hour position. As I said, I haven’t even removed it from the case yet so I just wanted to get an idea how involved the repair might be before I take any action. Now I have an idea where to focus my attention, and I can at least remove it from the case and examine it to fully understand the working of the chiming mechanism. Not sure if I’m up to tearing it apart quite yet, especially since it is running well for the most part. The resource you provided will no doubt prove very helpful to my learning process. I’ll let you know if I manage to resolve the issue and of course, anything I learn along the way. Thanks again.”
I will be sharing my experience with JD once I have the clcok running as it should. I have assembled the clock and in the process of testing the time side. Although the racks and snails (there are 2) are reinstalled I have not yet managed to have the time properly aligned. Once I have determined that the going train will run it’s full cycle I will focus on adjustments to the strike and chime side racks and snails.
The Ansonia octagonal short drop wall clock was (is) commonly known as a schoolhouse clock. This clock was manufactured in 1912. The number “12” , the year stamp, is found on the lower front plate of the movement. The letter “N” is also stamped on the movement.
In this post, Part II, I will proceed with cleaning the movement and performing required bushing work in addition to assembling and final testing.
12 and N on the plate
This is my one and only Ansonia clock. Since it is a fairly conventional time-only movement with an outboard escape wheel, it is fairly simple to work on and for those of you starting out, this is the first movement you should attempt.
Movement in the case prior to disassembly
After applying a C-clamp to the mainspring to contain the spring’s power, I disassembled the movement, placed the parts in the ultrasonic cleaner, then cleaned and polished the pivots prior to the bushing work. The clock required six bushings, three on the front plate and three on the back. The worst was the third wheel, as you can see in this photo. This is not unexpected because of the constant power and stress produced by the mainspring, but it definitely indicates a very worn pivot hole.
Close-up of bushing wear, the circle indicates where the pivot residesThe mainspring was inspected and cleanedUsing a micrometer to check pivot diameterBergeon Bushing Machine, an indispensable tool for bushing work
The only challenge I had was dealing with the brass arm that supports the front plate pivot on the escape wheel (arrow). To install the bushing I had to stabilize the arm on the bushing machine without bending or breaking it, and using very light hammer strikes to seat the bushing.
Arrow indicating tricky bushing install
The bushing went in nicely, as you can see in the next photo. Otherwise, the remaining bushing work went as expected.
Bushing installed on escape wheel arbourTesting in the case
Although I have an excellent clock stand, I decided to test the movement in the case due to the acute mounting angle of the movement. I tossed out the old screw,s which did not appear to be original, and used new slotted brass screws to attach the dial pan and the hinge for the brass bezel. In the process of fumbling with the glazed bezel, I knocked off the brass catch that fits into a slot on the case front. An angled wood block fits into the notch on the catch when the bezel is closed. I got out my torch and, with some sanding, an application of flux, and sufficient solder, the catch operates as it should.
Brass catch repair
Since I serviced the movement, why not go one step further and refresh the brass? I gave all the brass a good cleaning with Brasso, bringing back its original luster. Someone messed with the clock face some time ago, which is unfortunate, but I have decided to leave it as-is. A new paper dial face would not look right.
Ansonia clock project is complete
A simple project that can be done in half a day, enough to extend the life of this handsome antique schoolhouse wall clock that will tick along for years to come.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
WC writes. “Hello Ron. I enjoy your blog. I came across it by investigating a repair for my Chelsea Vanderbilt ships bell mantel clock, passed along from my Grandfather’s estate. I was hoping you could give me some advice on a repair issue. 2 1/2 years ago I shipped the clock to Chelsea in Massachusetts for factory overhaul. Six or seven weeks later the clock was returned, and has functioned beautifully, after 15 or 20 years of dormancy.
Yesterday I went to wind the clock side on the usual schedule of once a week, and the key spun violently backwards in my hand.There is now no tension in the winding port, I suspect the spring has snapped. The basic overhaul charge was nearly $500, and the warranty was 2 years parts/ maintenance. Since there is no consultation available with Chelsea, I am reluctant to ship the clock back for additional repair, not knowing what on earth they would charge me again, as another $500 would rock the boat on this end. I could investigate names of clock-maker/ clock repair sites in the greater Bay Area, where I live. Is this Chelsea that challenging of a repair?
The clock holds some sentimental value, but surely not enough to lose sleep over. Thank you, your thoughts are greatly appreciated.”
Similar to clock in this article
I wrote to WC and explained to him that I have not worked on one but I do know that this is not a clock that a novice or intermediate repair person would tackle. One of the issues is that only those who are authorized to repair them have access to the parts since Chelsea places limits on parts distribution so that they can perform repairs in-house. I explained that he may be experiencing a failed click. These movements are more prone to click return spring failure than main spring failure. Oftentimes when a click fails it takes other parts with it, i.e. secondary damage. However, the design of this clock makes it easy to take out either spring without disturbing anything else. If the click has let go and nothing else is damaged I advised him that he can fix the mainspring and click on his own or take it to a competent repair person in the area where he lives to effect the repair as long as it does not require additional parts. If the issue is limited to a failed click the repair cost would be far less than a more extensive repair.
The issue is whether or not Chelsea will stand by their warranty. WC has since corresponded with Chelsea and has sent the clock in for repair. They will assess what needs to be done and will consider the fact that it is just off warranty.
Let’s hope there is a happy ending to WCs plight and that Chelsea takes a reasonable approach in dealing with WC.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
Stromberg Carlson master clock
DP writes to me and asks what the lever does on the anchor (left arrow) and what happens if you move it one way or the other. He also asked about the purpose of the slot as indicated by the right arrow. The right part of the photo refers to a lower part of the clock.
Well, first of all what is DP referring to. This is a Stromberg Carlson master clock manufactured in 1947. Stromberg Carlson was a telecommunications equipment and electronics manufacturing company in the United States, formed in 1894. It was one of five companies that controlled the national supply of telephone equipment until after World War II.
A master clock is a precision clock that provides timing signals to synchronize slave clocks as part of a network of clocks. Networks of electric clocks connected by wires to a precision master pendulum clock began to be used in institutions like factories, offices, and schools around 1900. Many of you might recall the Simplex clock in your classroom which was but one slave clock among dozens in your school all physically connected to one clock, the master clock.
I do not have a particular expertise in Electric horology and asked him if I could consult within my clock circles.
Later on that day I responded. “Regarding your question (s), I gather you know that you have a master clock from which any number of slaves are run. The arrow on the left appears to be a contact activator similar to what one one might find on an IBM master clock, for 2 second contacts to advance slave clocks at a fast rate of impulse every two seconds. The slot on the right looks like it would be for an anchoring screw.”
Stromberg Carlson movement
DPs response. “As you can see in this other clock mechanism that it doesn’t have that lever so yours is a good explanation. There is 6351-M stamped on my clock mechanism. However, the clock itself is not in its original configuration. I was told that originally it was used as a master clock in a school to control all the other clocks. I was told that an electrical engineer reworked it so that it would run off of house current. Too bad that he didn’t leave it the way it was originally. You can tell from the holes in the back wooden panel and now an occupied ceramic insulator that the was much more to it.”
As DP states, his clock was converted. In fact many were converted from 20VDC to 110 volts AC. Presumably a safer way to run the clock but unfortunate because it takes away some authenticity.
In answering DPs question I have now expanded my knowledge of electro-mechanical clocks.
“Life is a box of chocolates….you never know what you are going to get”, Forest Gump
Buying a clock without actually touching and inspecting it is always a gamble and making a judgement based on images, many of which are poor quality, complicates the decision-making even further. There are stories of people buying clocks online only to find that the clock they thought had a antique mechanical movement arrived with a quartz one.
There are many challenges facing the clock shopper in today’s online world. Once your interest is piqued you may ask yourself these questions:
Did I get my money’s worth? Will I be “ripped off”?
Will it work when I get it home?
What do I have to do to fix whatever might be wrong?
What did the seller not disclose?
There are accepted rules about buying clocks on online for-sale sites. Online for-sale sites are ubiquitous and in many countries in the world. Here is an example of rules that are found on a particular site that I frequent.
All transactions should take place in person with cash. Do not ship items and do not accept other payment methods.
Never click links in an email that ask you to sign in to xxxx. All “Your xxxx account has expired” emails are fakes.
xxxx, eBay and PayPal do not offer buyer or seller protection for xxxx items. Such emails are fakes.
But for more specific rules on how to buy that special clock you were always looking for, see Ron’s Rules at the end of this post.
Follow this exchange between myself and the seller and consider my thoughts on this and other online clock purchases later in the article.
The clock
Unknown mantel or shelf clock.
Actual Ad photo
The exact words of the ad
Wind up alabaster clock. Very heavy. $80.00
The email exchange between myself and the seller
NOTE: This particular online for-sale site has an encrypted email service, therefore in my exchange I do not know the seller’s actual email address. This is a necessary protection for both parties.
Me
Do you know the company that made the clock and how old it is? Thanks
From the wording of the ad I am assuming at this point that the seller knows very little about the clock
Seller
Sorry I don’t know who made or how old it is. I bought it in an auction a few years back. Thanks xxxx
Me
Since you do not know the maker and I would have to drive from xxxxx, would you accept $60 for the clock.
Seller
Before you decide to drive from xxxxxx I would like you to know that the chimes do not work. I know that the clock would be worth more but 60.00 is fine if you would like to have it. Thanks xxxx. Let me know .
Me
If the chimes don’t work it is not a huge problem. Does it look like all the parts are there or is anything missing? I am still interested if the parts are there.
Seller
Everything is in tact. It was last serviced a few years back and worked great, but went to wind the chimes and they seemed to slip on the spring… However the clock still works just had it put away for a couple of years.
Me
For $60 I will buy it. How does 2pm today sound?
Seller
Yes we will make sure we are at home. Will you find the place OK? If not we could meet you part ways.
Later
I provided the seller with my telephone number. He subsequently calls to give me his address. The call is important because I suspect he wants to get a feel for who he is dealing with and that is the correct way to approach sales such as this.
Thoughts
It is important to be ready to pick the item up ASAP. You do not want to allow too much time for the seller to have second thoughts or to have someone else move in ahead of you. I often suggest meeting that same day, in a neutral place or at their home but most suggest meeting at their home. A neutral place is an option and I had to do this only once in over 2 dozen purchases.
My preliminary analysis based on the limited information that I have is that it is an French or English made time and strike shelf clock and judging from the problem on the “chime” side it might just be a bad click although it is possible that parts of the movement have been damaged. It is impossible to know until I see it and bring it home.
You might suggest I ask more questions about the clock or have the seller send additional photos of the movement or even a closeup of the clock face. It is only a $60.00 clock! In my experience once you attempt to have the seller take extra steps to sell their clock especially a clock at this price, the chances of a loss of sale increases. Were I to shell out hundreds of dollars I would definitely ask for more information and detailed, higher resolution photos.
Ron’s Rules
Locate the clock you are looking for online and try to avoid Chinese or Korean clocks often advertised as “31 day” clocks. (For some reason people think they are worth a lot of money and they are garbage – usually!)
Communicate by email and ask questions but not too many as to scare the seller off. Suggested questions might be:
Does the clock run?
Who is the maker (manufacturer)?
If it does not run, are all the pieces intact?
How old is it?
How long have you had it?
Would you accept a lower price because…….(justify reason(s))?
Arrange final meeting details by phone.
Meet the same day if possible.
Meet the seller in person.
Meeting at their home is preferred but a neutral location such as in front of a public building or in a mall is an option
Pay in cash.
Thank him/her for the sale.
Final thoughts
Check the dates on the listings. The longer they are listed the more the seller is inclined to sell for a better price.
Once, I gave the seller a day or two to think about my offer. I took a chance but got the clock for a decent price. (see first image)
Meeting the same day is crucial; you don’t want the seller to get cold feet and you don’t want someone coming behind you to buy the clock.
Only once did the seller accept a cheque from me because of past dealings with him. Cash is the rule.
If you cannot negotiate a final price by email suggest talking it over on the phone
Be courteous and polite at all stages of the deal
My wife and I are in the mood for a road trip. Now, with cash in hand, let’s get into the car and go for a drive.
This is Part II of a multi part series on the Sessions Westminster A chiming mantel clock.
Side view of Sessions Westminster A
Inside the plates they are a conventional Sessions clock. Outside the plates is an entirely different story
Sessions Westminster A clocks are true chiming clocks that play the Westminster chime sequences on the quarter hours and strike the hour count on the hour. The unique design combines the chiming and striking functions in one train powered by a single main spring. Between the movement plates these movements are very similar to other Sessions non-chime (strike only) movements. The going (time) train is controlled by a basic recoil escapement with the strip pallets or verge located between the plates. Inside the plates they are a conventional Sessions clock.
Outside the plates is an entirely different story. At the front of the movement one will notice that this is a rack and snail strike train but it has TWO racks and TWO snails. A look at the back of the movement reveals a small cam in the middle of the plate and a large “player drum” or pin drum. The two racks working together with the little cam and the player drum, which can shift outward to play chimes or inward to strike the hour, is what makes it all work. The chime sequence is self‐synchronizing and with so few working parts, once setup correctly this can be a relatively trouble free movement. (Source R. Croswell’sTaming the Sessions Two Train Clock)
This clock requires servicing for two reasons;
It runs for several minutes or an hour or so and then stops
The striking and chiming is very erratic. It might strike 4 o’clock one hour and 9 o’clock the next and the hammers “hang up” during the quarter hour chime.
There are a number of “exterior” parts that must be removed before separating the plates
Dis-assembly of the Westminster A is conventional however there are a number of “exterior” parts that must be removed before separating the plates. The regulator gearing, verge, drum assembly, hammers and racks as well as other parts are removed one after another. The additional parts add considerable complication to the movement and can lead to issues when servicing. I will describe two particular issues I have encountered in the process of working with this movement. I believe these issues, which I will describe later, are likely what frustrate most clock repair persons when working on the Westminster A.
Rear plate showing regulator, verge and chime drum. Clamp on mainspring
I chose to leave the mainsprings in while taking the movement apart though I contained the power using C-clamps. On this clock the mainsprings can be removed without dis-assembly. This allows the repair person to easily service the mainsprings or the clicks (which are notoriously bad on Sessions clocks generally).
Unfastening the drum and hammer assembly went without issue since there are only two bolts securing it to the plate.
The 2 racks, a unique feature, work together to produce the strike. They are located one on top of the other and are secured to a post.
Two racks stacked on top of each other. The post on the right accommodates two springs
Taking them off requires releasing a pressure washer on the top of the post. They came out easily. However, one rack is missing a return spring which might partly explain the erratic striking of the clock. Such a simple thing that may make a big difference. I may have to buy or fashion a spring.
Rack with spring
Rack without spring. The spring clips into the hole on the rack arm
Specialized tools are needed to remove some parts. Those I don’t have
Two issues.
One, I could not remove the hub supporting the gathering pallet pins seen here. It’s unfortunate because there is more lateral movement of the arbour that I am comfortable with which tells me that a bushing is required. I did not want to risk damaging the arbour and I don’t have specialized tools to do the job. I may have to live with it. However, it may not be so bad once the other bushing work is completed.
Gathering pallet pins
Two, I could not remove the centre cam despite pulling and gently prying.
Centre shaft cam
Again, I did not want to risk damaging the arbour. Specialized tools, such as a puller in this case, are required to remove it. That, I don’t have.
This clock has a unfortunate reputation for soft pivots
I will have to work around these two issues. Pressure fitted parts on any movement are very frustrating when said parts cannot be removed without special tools and this one is a challenge indeed. Re–assembly might be a little frustrating particularly with the centre arbour still attached to the rear plate which may effectively be “in the way” of positioning other wheels in place.
I inspected the pivots on the wheels and they all look good (no tapering) with expected wear for a clock of this period. I was worried because this clock has a reputation for soft pivots and perhaps because this is a later model, Sessions might have been introduced harder steel for the pivots. There is plenty of bushing work that needs to be done, however.
On to cleaning, bushing work, re-assembly and testing in Part III.
This is Part I of a multi-part blog wherein I explore the challenges of repairing a Sessions Westminster A tambour style time, strike and chime mantel clock. This part is the introduction.
Th Vintage Sessions Westminster A mantel clock
In August 2015 I wrote, “This a good project clock that is not for the inexperienced. As I gain more knowledge I will tackle this most interesting clock.” Well the time is now.
Well, it’s been two years and I have looked at this clock often enough and wondered what it would be like to finally get it running. Time to take the plunge.
The Sessions Westminster A mantel clock was made in Forestville Connecticut, USA. The first year of production for this model was 1927. Between 1903 and 1933 Sessions produced 52 models of mechanical clocks, ranging from advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or “Regulator” clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home.
Some Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors. The Westminster A is particularly sought after though collectors prefer it to be serviced and in running condition.
Raised Roman numerals and faux inlay
The case is in exceptional condition
The clock is tricky to repair and most horologists prefer to stay clear of it
This clock is 21 inches long and 10 inches high, has a mahogany finish with faux wood inlay and raised metal gold-coloured numerals on the dial face. It is a quarter-hour 8-day Westminster chime clock operating on two trains, the going train (time) with the strike and chime train combined. It also has small arbour just below the hour cannon to turn off the chimes/strike and is called “Silent Chime”. Sessions was not alone in producing two-train clocks and other makers incorporated this design later in the 1930’s and 1940’s. However, Sessions was probably the best known for this feature. This clock was sold in 1931 (inscription on label, back of access door). The sale price was $29.95 which would have been substantial considering a working man’s salary in those days.
Sessions Westminster chime drum
The clock is tricky to repair and horologists will generally try to stay away from it. I will be going through a step-by-step process and relying heavily on Robert Croswell’s excellent instructional manual called Taming the Sessions Two Train MovementFebruary 2016 edition.
In August 2015 I wrote, “This a good project clock that is not for the inexperienced. As I gain more knowledge I will tackle this most interesting clock.”
I have done some bushing work and from what I can see there is certainly bushing work to be done. I have removed the movement once before to replace a bad click which as easy fix since the mainsprings can be removed without dis-assembly. The click holds the tension or power of the mainspring and is identified by a clicking sound when the key is turned. But the real challenge will begin as I attempt to understand how the chime mechanism works and if I can re-assemble it successfully.
Follow me as I dis-assemble, clean and repair the movement in Part II.
I recently purchased a vintage Canadian made New Haven 8-day short drop octagon time and strike clock. It is in the familiar style of a schoolhouse clock.
The New Haven Clock Company lasted just over 100 years.
Sadly, The New Haven Clock Company lasted just over 100 years. Much of the history of the New Haven Clock Company comes from this informative site.
In 1853 the Haven Clock Company was founded in New Haven, Connecticut by Hiram Camp (1811‑1892) and other clock-makers. The company’s mission was to mass produce inexpensive brass clock movements for use in clocks. In April, 1856 The New Haven Clock Company buys out a competitor’s company, the Jerome Clock Company. They move their production to the former Jerome factory and New Haven begins making clocks under their own trademark. In 1870 some of New Haven’s clocks are marketed under the Jerome & Co. brand.
In 1885 the company stopped selling clocks other than their own New Haven brand. In 1890 the company developed serious financial problems and efforts were made to keep it solvent until 1897 at which time the company emerges from reorganization. In 1902 Walter Chauncey Camp (1859-1925) began to turn the company around. In 1923 Walter Camp steps down as head of the company and is succeeded by Edwin P. Root.
In 1929 Richard H. Whitehead replaces Root as president of the company but by this time New Haven is again facing financial difficulties which is compounded when the Great Depression hits in November, 1929. Whitehead is able to keep the company afloat during these troubled times and the firm becomes profitable once again. From 1943 to 1945 the company uses its manufacturing plant to aid in the war effort, producing products almost exclusively for military use. In March of 1946 The New Haven Clock and Watch Company becomes the new name of the firm after it reorganizes once again. It returns to what it did best before the War, once again making clocks and watches.
The 1946 reorganization eventually leaves the company vulnerable to foreign investors and it loses control to a consortium of Swiss watchmakers. The man who had successfully shepherded the company through the hard times of the Depression years, resigns as president. In 1956 the New Haven Clock and Watch Company files Chapter 10 bankruptcy in a U.S. court. Its fortunes have declined precipitously since Whitehead’s departure and it never recovers. In 1960 the company goes out of business and the production lines are closed. The facilities are sold through a combination of public auction and private negotiation in March of 1960.
The New Haven Clock Co. of Canada was established at Brantford, Ontario (Canada) in 1906. The New Haven Clock Company of Canada was a subsidiary of the New Haven Clock Company of America. Both mantel and wall clocks were made in the Brantford plant with Canadian wood cases, but the spring-driven pendulum movements were brought in from the U.S. The Canadian arm of the New Haven Clock Company closed in 1956.
This clock was made in the 1930s and taken out of a decommissioned one-room schoolhouse in 1963.
New Haven schoolhouse clock
I am always fascinated by a clock’s history and I always ask a seller how much they know about it
I am always fascinated by a clock’s history and I always ask a seller how much they know about it. I believe a clock’s provenance is almost as important as the clock itself. The seller, a man in this seventies, related in great detail how he acquired the clock from the Lone Spruce School in Invermay Saskatchewan in 1963 when the municipality was selling off school assets. Saskatchewan is a western province of Canada. Invermay Sask is a village in the east-central region of Saskatchewan, Canada with a population of 247 in 2011. Invermay is about 75 km west of Canora or about 50 km east of Wadena on Highway 5.
New Haven clock instructions
Lone Spruce school was built between 1913 to 1915 on the west side of section 1 township 34 range 8 west of the second meridian, and it is noted by local historian Caroline McDonald, that the school was 1/2 mile north from each of the north and south corners of the section of land. Classes opened under Mr. Oliver, during World War 1. A new school was needed around 1950-1951, and the new school yard chosen was section 8 township 34 range 7 west of the second meridian, the old school yard having been two miles to the west of the new school. The old school house sat empty for 10 years and was removed in 1959-60. When the new school closed for classes, the Lone Spruce school house was re-located into Hazel Dell around 1959-1960 and decommissioned in 1963 at which time its assets were sold.
Why a school board would order time and strike clocks is an interesting question.
#331 appears on the inside access door. The number 331 was likely an inventory number that referred to one of a lot purchased by the municipality in the 1930s. Why a school board would order time and strike clocks is an interesting question. My other schoolhouse clocks are time-only. Why the access door is a solid sash rather than glazed is another curious question. The combination of the solid sash and time & strike movement must have hit a particular price point for the school board at that time. The teachers were likely instructed not to wind the strike side.
Time zone clocks
The New Haven clock is now one of three “time zone” clocks on our kitchen wall. I have a daughter in Victoria BC, and a daughter in Calgary, Alberta and at a glance I can see the time in those two regions of Canada. The New Haven clock is our local time; the Victoria clock is a Waterbury and the Calgary clock is a Sessions.
This clock is on my calendar for servicing which I will cover in an upcoming article.
This year I decided to part with three of my vintage clocks. Rather than sell them which would have offset tool purchases, I decided that there is no better way than gifting them. I have three adult children (is that an oxymoron?) and it was a matter of allowing them to choose what clock they wanted out of several choices.
My oldest chose a vintage Sessions American No 2 shelf clock seen here.
Sessions American No 2 time and strike shelf (or mantel) clock
She loved the natural mission oak style and the simple lines. This clock required a little work before it was handed over to my daughter. A thorough cleaning of the movement as well as 5 new bushings and a new click on the strike side were required. There is similar American model made by Sessions, the No 1, which did not have the fluted columns. This one was made was around 1922 and was a very popular model for Sessions.
My second daughter chose a Sessions Raven time and strike mantel clock pictured here. It is also from the early 1920s.
Sessions Raven time and strike shelf clock
She liked the ebony finish, the sound of the strike, the simplicity of the lines as well as the 4 delicate columns and added that it would go great with her furniture as you can see in the photo below. I agree. This clock was serviced just before I received it about a year ago but I took the movement out, inspected it, oiled it and returned it to its case.
On display in my daughter’s living room
My son chose one of my earlier clocks, a Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock circa 1960s. It was in very good condition for a Chinese clock though I took it apart, cleaned it and oiled it. Made in China clocks are practically bullet proof though due to their cheap construction they are prone to explode. Not the prettiest clock around but these things last a long time if you given them just a little care and attention.
Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock (bottom ornamental piece missing)
If you are a collector, why not gift your clocks to friends and family? Clocks are endearing memories by association. Children love receiving clocks from their parents not only because of their collectible value (perhaps) but as a keepsake, a reminder of good times and happy family memories. I am sure that every time they wind the clock they will think about that one or more happy occasions and if something goes wrong with their clock it provides an excellent excuse for dad and mum to visit! And we certainly will with tools in hand!
What most people visualize as the Schoolhouse clock
My recent acquisition of another schoolhouse clock stimulated my curiosity and prompted me to do some research on the origin of the name. In this article I will describe my thoughts on how the schoolhouse clock came to be and my most recent Sessions wall clock purchase.
During my research I found it very interesting that little can be found regarding the history of the schoolhouse clock. I realize that many older readers growing up in the rural areas of Canada and elsewhere in North American have fond memories of the one-room schoolhouse with a large clock in either the front or the back of a classroom. I did not live that experience rather, when I was young and attending a large urban school the Simplex master / slave clock is the one I remember best.
The schoolhouse clock that I bought recently adds to my modest collection of three schoolhouse clocks. Given that I spent many years as an educator, it seems only fitting that I would have an interest in schoolhouse clocks. My schoolhouse clocks are all a similar style; short drop octagon, constructed of oak, brass dial bezel, bottom glazed access sash, 12 inch dial or 9 inches as in this case of this clock and the Waterbury pictured below. Although 9 inch clocks were used in schoolhouses they were also found in office or workplace settings.
They were not called a schoolhouse clock when they were made
Schoolhouse clocks were the standard design for early North American school houses because of their larger, easy to read dials. These distinctive clocks were hung in many schools rooms across Canada. The majority had simple but tough time-only movements and some even came with a calendar function. Occasionally they were ordered with time and strike movements but the cheapest and most popular versions were time-only. This type of clock had a very utilitarian look and function.
They were not always called schoolhouse clocks. None of the labels on my clocks have the word “schoolhouse” written on them and are either described as a”drop Octagon” in the case of this Sessions or have a specific model name. The term schoolhouse clock was not applied to them when they were made but came to be known as a particular style of clock found in school settings by later collectors. If a particular style was ordered by a school authority makers might have informally described them as clocks for schools or “school clocks”. In any event, the term has become a permanent part of the clock collector language.
Label on back of Sessions clock
With a swinging pendulum visible from a distance the clock can easily be seen running and the open-door bottom access sash allowed for restarting and adjusting the rate. In some clock collecting circles it is said that schoolhouse clocks are a derivative of the English drop dial fusee clock, an example of which can be seen here. Drop dials were produced in the late 18th through to the 19th century and closely resembled the schoolhouse clock. Unlike spring-driven schoolhouse clocks, fusee clocks have conical construction from which a chain or gut-line is pulled by the mainspring barrel allowing the power of the mainspring to be released evenly thus assuring better accuracy.
When I am in the process of buying a clock I always ask the seller this question. “How much do you know about this clock?”
When I am in the process of buying a clock I always ask the question. “How much do you know about this clock?”. I always ask this question because I am interested in a clock’s provenance and some of the stories are quite intriguing. The seller, a man in his late fifties, thought about it for a moment and said, “Well, I’ve had it since I was 14”. The clock came out of a decommissioned one-room schoolhouse in a small town called Springhill, Nova Scotia (Canada). However, when I first saw the clock I said to him, “It looks like a nice office clock”. The seller quickly corrected me and said, “It’s a schoolhouse clock”. “It runs for a little bit and then stops, maybe you can do something with it”, he added.
It is a 1920’s vintage Sessions Drop Octagon wall clock. It has a solid medium dark oak case with original hands, ornate pressed brass pendulum bob, solid brass bezel, 80% of an intact label on backboard, tin dial pan and stenciled lower glazing on the sash. The paper dial is original but it is heavily “foxed”. The movement is 8-day time only. The dimensions of the clock are a 9″ diameter dial, 19″ high, 13 1/2″ wide by 4″ deep. It is in reasonably good condition given it’s age and for $20 it was quite a bargain. It is also intact; there are no missing or broken pieces.
Sessions time-only movement
I don’t think this clock has been run in quite some time.
I took it home, hung it on the wall and true to what the seller said it would run less than a minute and stop. I noticed a rubbing sound around the pendulum area as it was running. The pendulum bob was hitting against the inside front of the case. I took the movement out and observed a bent crutch rod, corrected it, put it on a test stand and it ran immediately. As expected the movement had quite a bit of grime and required attention but it ran for a day before I took it apart for a thorough servicing. I don’t think this clock has been run in quite some time.
I found it curious that the suspension spring was soldered where the spring hooks into the top block. It likely kept slipping off and solder was used to keep it in place. In any event, the spring cannot be taken out without first removing the solder! The clock is in very good overall condition for it’s age and the movement was not as dirty as I first thought. The pivots are in decent condition for the most part and there is minimal wear overall. The movement was disassembled, cleaned and in the process I decided to install two bushings for added insurance, one on the escape wheel (front plate) and the other on an intermediate wheel (front plate). The movement was tested, put in beat and reinstalled back into it’s case.
I may replace the paper dial but I am going to see if I can live with it for the time being.
The dial has many brownish spots as you can see in the next photo. The clock had to have been in a moist environment for a long period for the paper to discolour. My two options are, one, leave as is or, two, replace with a paper dial. I may replace the paper dial but I am going to see if I can live with it for the time being. The brass bezel cleaned up well but the exposed tin surrounding the paper dial has blackish areas which I managed to reduce with CLR but could not totally eliminate. Of course, I later learned that CLR is really not appropriate for this purpose as it is an acid.
Dial showing rust staining
The case has years of grime which was easily remedied with Murphy’s soap and water. It cleaned up very nicely. Following the cleaning I gave the case a light coat of shellac to restore the luster of the oak. It looks good and it runs well.
My other drop octagon clocks are a Waterbury Arion, an unknown Ansonia and an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II.
This Waterbury Arion is 19 inches long
Ansonia short drop octagon, model unknown, 12 inch dial
Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II, 12 inch dial
Time-only movements are the easiest to work on and a very good movement to learn on.
Repaired Sessions Drop Octagon clock
Time-only movements are the easiest to work on and a very good movement to learn on. If you are a beginner in clock collecting and repair clocks such as this are satisfying clocks to work on and presents few challenges. I am happy that I managed to bring this particular clock back to it’s former schoolhouse glory.
The term schoolhouse clock is a term that was not applied when they were made but came to be known as a particular style of clock found in school settings by later collectors. The schoolhouse clock is such an endearing name that when one thinks of a schoolhouse clock the memory of these specific styles of clock immediately comes to mind.
When I first started clock collecting and repair many people said to me, stay as far away as you can from those darned Chinese wall clocks. They are garbage! They have thin plates, are cheaply made with many stamped parts and they explode without warning. Not true! Oh, yes, they have thin plates and many stamped parts but they are actually quite reliable and don’t normally explode.
When I first heard the name Daniel Dakota many years ago I thought it must be some long established American company with a proud First Nations heritage. Whoa, was I wrong! It is a Chinese company and Daniel Dakota is a actually a registered trademark. This wonderful sounding American name no doubt eased this Chinese company’s penetration into the American market with tens of thousands of inexpensively made clocks that anyone could afford. Thousands of them are still working to this day despite the fact that many have never been serviced, a testament to just how tough they are.
The best thing about a Daniel Dakota clock is that you can pick one up for almost nothing. A barely running 1930s German box clock might set you back two or three hundred dollars but a perfectly preserved 1960s Chinese wall clock with “real wood” can be had for less than $50. I have two. I paid less than $40 for one and had the second one was given to me.
Of course, some folks think they are worth as much as a quality German antique clock. They often advertise them as antiques. Take these two ads on a online for-sale site?
“Original Daniel Dakota 1960-70 antique 31-day winding clock perfect condition. Elegant design with brass hands and pendulum. Comes with original key. Selling to people with taste $300”.
Well, people with taste and any knowledge of vintage/antique clocks would certainly pass on this one. This next ad is for a clock that is exactly like the one in the following photo.
“Beautifully Crafted Wood Pendulum Clock. Chimes on Hour & Once on the Half-Hour. Includes Winding Key.31 Day.Keeps perfect time, nice sounding chimes. Asking $250.00”
Daniel Dakota time and strike, sticker on bottom left says, “real wood”
I could go on and on. I see these ads almost every day. Yes, they are pretty and very plentiful but they are certainly not quality clocks. Do they last? If you take the time to service a 1960s or 1970s vintage mechanical one, thoroughly clean it and oil it, the clock will give you years of faithful service. It might not be the prettiest or the most accurate clock in your home but it is both reliable and dependable. The workmanship is, well, Chinese, which means that it is reasonably well put together (with real wood!) but there is zero evidence that a skilled craftsman spent hours toiling over your clock.
Daniel Dakota 31 day time and strike, my office clock
One feature I really like is winding the clock. Which way do I turn the key? Well, if you have a Daniel Dakota clock you can find little arrows which indicate the direction to turn the key above the winding arbours. What could go wrong!
Unless you know how to service your Daniel Dakota clock you might be deeply disappointed if you bring it in to a clock repair person (horologist). Many will refuse to touch it. I think it’s a snob thing. They will take one look at your prized clock, look at you sympathetically and say,
“it will cost far more than it’s worth to repair”
“I can’t get the parts”, or
“Would you like me to put a quartz movement in it?”
I have taken apart my two Daniel Dakota clocks many times. They have provided me with an excellent learning experience and they are a great entry point into the world of mechanical clocks because, well, if you make a mistake you can always salvage the parts for another or toss it out without feeling you’ve lost much on your investment. However, I doubt that I will acquire more Daniel Dakota clocks despite the fact that I like them. I will keep the two I have knowing that if I had to sell them I would get absolutely nothing for them and that’s perfectly fine with me.
How far should one go to repair, restore, or conserve a clock without changing it in a significant way? Minimal invasive intervention is a term I “borrowed” from a clock forum I frequent. Some collectors argue that any work done on an antique clock detracts from its value—much like replacing the motor on an antique car. It may look nice, but it’s ultimately less desirable.
At the end of this article, I’ve included several questions that collectors might consider when faced with this dilemma.
When does performing too much work on a clock affect its collector value? If you go too far, does it lose its attraction as a collectible item? A true collector is often more interested in a movement that has never been touched than one that has been repaired or restored. But just how far should one go with a non-working vintage or antique clock? While it’s always desirable to have a running clock, most understand that getting a movement to actually function requires at least some invasive intervention—such as bushing or pivot reconstruction.
Repair implies correcting faults or poor servicing that may alter a clock from its original form. Restoration involves rebuilding parts of the movement or case to return it to an “as-new” condition. Conservation focuses on protecting and preserving a clock using effective methods to maintain its originality for as long as possible.
Some degree of intervention is not only necessary but, for some collectors, even desirable.
The Case of the Ingraham Huron Shelf Clock
To illustrate, let’s look at my 1878 Ingraham Huron time-and-strike shelf clock, an American-made piece with a uniquely designed rosewood case. For a 147-year-old clock, the case is in remarkable condition and always draws attention. The hands, pendulum, sash, and bezel hardware are all original. There are no cracks, breaks, or missing pieces. The case was cleaned with Murphy’s Oil Soap and water, followed by a light coat of shellac. The dial shows a natural buildup of grime that, while some may see it as unsightly, contributes to its authentic character—and that, I will not touch.
Ingraham Huron shelf clock circa 1878
The movement is original but bears evidence of poor past repairs. In small-town Nova Scotia, access to professional clockmakers was limited, so people often relied on local tinkerers to get their clocks running again. In those days, a clock was an appliance—something that needed to work, not a collector’s treasure. Quick and inexpensive fixes were the goal, and as a result, questionable methods were sometimes used. This movement shows plenty of solder, with misaligned gears and new pivot holes drilled into the plates. The soldering was likely done in the 1940s, when soldering guns became common.
This lantern pinion has plenty of solder
When I got it, the clock ran for two or three days on a full wind before stopping. A gentle nudge of the pendulum gets it going again, but it soon stops once more. From the front, little seems wrong, but once the movement is removed from the case, the problems become clear—particularly the invasive solder repairs.
Repair, Restore, or Conserve?
I brought the clock to a certified horologist, and we discussed which approach to take: repair, restore, or conserve? He shared a story about a customer who brought in a kitchen clock (also known as a “gingerbread” clock)—a family heirloom they wanted running again. These clocks are common today; thousands were made, and few have significant market value. Yet sentimental value often outweighs monetary worth. In such cases, he repairs the clock to the customer’s satisfaction but if the movement is beyond repair, he recommends replacing it with a period-correct one. Most customers accept this solution, but collectors recognize that a clock with a replacement movement holds little or no collector value.
Piece added to the plate, second arrow shows new pivot hole
In my case, the horologist advised that my Ingraham Huron’s movement should not be replaced. Instead, it should be carefully restored to its original condition.
Collectors are always on the hunt for untouched examples, but finding an antique clock that has never been altered is rare. Using this clock as an example, a repair might reduce its originality—and thus its value—while a proper restoration could increase both its appeal and desirability.
Questions for the Collector
When deciding how to approach an antique or vintage clock that needs work, I ask myself the following:
Is undoing the “damage” caused by an earlier poor repair considered an overly invasive procedure?
If the repair was done shortly after the clock was made and clearly documented, should it be left untouched?
Is a poor repair part of the clock’s historical provenance, and should it remain as-is?
Would bringing the movement back to its original state be considered a restoration or a repair?
In the case of the Ingraham Huron, does removing all the solder qualify as minimal invasive intervention?
Will the repair enhance or diminish the clock’s value?
Would choosing not to repair or restore it be considered conservation?
In my view, conservation represents the least invasive form of intervention, while repair and restoration involve progressively greater degrees of change.
So, how far would you go?
In the end, the question of how far to go in repairing or restoring a clock echoes the ancient Ship of Theseus paradox. When every part of a clock has been repaired, replaced, or renewed, does it remain the same clock? Perhaps the answer lies not in its parts but in its essence—the story it tells, the hands that have wound it, and the generations who have listened to it mark the passing of time. Whether we choose to repair, restore, or conserve, each decision reflects our own philosophy of preservation: what we value more—the clock’s originality, or its ability to keep time once again.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
You must be logged in to post a comment.