Dandy by Pequegant | An Affordable, Everyday Clock

I recently added two more Pequegnat clocks to my collection: the Hamilton Tall which you can read about here and the Danby model, which I will be profiling in this article. This brings my total to 12 Arthur Pequegnat clocks.

Let’s start with some background on the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. and its significance in Canadian clockmaking.

Advertising sign

The Pequegnat Clock Company, founded by Swiss immigrant Arthur Pequegnat in 1904 in Kitchener, Ontario (then Berlin), operated until 1941. Initially a jewelry shop, Pequegnat expanded into bicycle manufacturing in 1897. However, as demand for bicycles declined, he shifted to clockmaking, utilizing his existing plant for producing clock movements. The company’s motto, “Buy Canadian – Pequegnat clocks are better than foreign-made ones,” appealed to Canadian consumers.

Pequegnat initially sourced wooden clock cases from local furniture makers before producing its own, earning a reputation for high-quality, reliable clocks in various designs, including wall, mantel, and hall clocks. Unfortunately, the brass shortage during the Second World War signaled the end of the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co.

The Danby

While the Hamilton Tall is considered a prestigious parlour clock, the Danby occupies the opposite end of the spectrum. This is reflected in its auction price, making it one of the least expensive Pequegnat clocks I have purchased.

The Danby

According to the general definition of a mantel clock, the Danby can be classified as a shelf clock. It measures 4.5″ x 21″ x 9.5″, with its movement housed in a walnut veneered case.

The Danby was directly competing with an influx of mantel clocks from American companies, and to remain competitive, they must have sold it with minimal profit margins and this is reflected in its build quality.

The Dial

While some of the last Danbys showcased an Art Deco dial, this particular model features the simpler tin painted dial. Notably, the name “Pequegnat” is positioned one-third of the way up from the center arbor on the dial face. At that time, thanks to its brand recognition, it wasn’t necessary to display the entire company name on the dial.

Additionally, the movement lacks a regulating feature, so to adjust the clock’s speed, you must change the length of the pendulum bob. In short it is as simple as it gets for a Pequegnat 8-day time and strike clock. Notably, it has a tuned rod gong which would have been considered an upgrade.

A common feature of Pequegnat movements is their nickel-plated front and back plates, which provided a polished, attractive finish that appealed to customers.

Initially, the Pequegnat Clock Company used steel plates for their clock movements but transitioned to brass plates. Steel plates were more prone to rust and corrosion, while brass offered better resistance and was easier to machine, making it a more suitable choice for clockmaking. Pequegnat continued to nickel-plate the movements to enhance the clock’s perceived quality.

Numerous Pequegnat models were produced over the extended period from 1904 to 1941, making it difficult to determine the exact manufacturing dates for specific clocks. However, I feel confident in stating that this clock was made in the months leading up to the closing of the factory in 1941.

Overall Condition of the Case

The case is dark walnut veneered, which was a common practice for “everyday” clocks during the pre-war period. This construction method helped reduce production costs. It’s also possible that by this time, Pequegnat had resumed the practice of outsourcing their cases as there were several companies in Toronto, notably Walter Clocks and the Blackforest Clock Co. that produced cases for clock movements imported from England, Germany and France.

The case has been refreshed, and aside from requiring a cleaning, it looks presentable. However, the dial is in rough condition, with both the numerals and the surface having faded from wear and tear. I may touch up the numerals with black paint but there is not much I can do about the face itself.

I’m uncertain about the dial bezel; it should be brass but has a more copper-like colour. The bezel did not age well given the amount of tarnishing.

There is a good label, but it isn’t attached to the case. I may tape it to the inside of the door, as gluing a label with impregnated oil on wood is challenging.

The Plan

I have several other movements to work on before I can get to the Danby, which may remain on the back burner for a few months.

In the meantime, I noticed an issue right away: the center arbour cam hangs on the “J” hook, forcing it against the time side mainspring, which stops the clock. It won’t release unless I advance the minute hand. The movement will need to be completely disassembled to reposition the hook, but that will have to wait for another day.

Exploring the Iconic Hamilton Tall Clock by Pequegnat

I recently added two more Pequegnat clocks to my collection: the Dandy model and the Hamilton Tall, the latter of which I will be profiling in this article. I now have a total of 12 Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my possession.

The Hamilton Tall

For those unfamiliar with the Pequegnat name, the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company is arguably the most iconic antique clockmaker in Canada. No Canadian antique clock collection would be complete without a Pequegnat piece.

The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company

The Pequegnat Clock Company was a Canadian clock manufacturer that operated from 1904 to 1941. It was founded by Arthur Pequegnat, a Swiss immigrant who brought his family to Canada in search of a new beginning.

Pequegnat, a skilled clockmaker and entrepreneur, saw an opportunity to establish his own clock company in Kitchener, Ontario (then known as Berlin). However, the story of the Pequegnat clocks begins even before 1904.

In 1897, Arthur expanded his Berlin jewelry shop to include bicycle manufacturing. By 1904, with declining demand for bicycles, he shifted focus to clockmaking, using his Berlin Bicycle Manufacturing plant to produce clock movements. The company’s motto, “Buy Canadian – Pequegnat clocks are better than foreign-made ones,” resonated with Canadian consumers.

Taken at The Canadian Clock Museum, Deep River, Ontario

Initially, Pequegnat sourced wooden clock cases from local furniture makers, but eventually, the company began producing its own cases. The Pequegnat Clock Company became known for high-quality, reliable clocks, offering a wide range of designs, including wall clocks, mantel clocks, and hall clocks.

The Hamilton Tall

Cashing in on Canada’s identity as a nation, Pequegnat saw the value in naming clocks after Canadian cities, cities such as Stratford, London, Toronto, Moncton, Montreal, and, of course, Hamilton. This marketing strategy undoubtedly struck a tone with buyers.

Interestingly, there are two models named Hamilton, which collectors differentiate as the “Tall” model and the “Wide” model (or shorter and taller by some). Among the two, the Tall model is considered more desirable by collectors.

Another model, which could have been a variant of the Hamilton but instead named St. Thomas, shares an identical case. However, it has a mission-style dial, which, in my opinion, complements the case more effectively. In the photo below, the St. Thomas is shown in the bottom left corner.

St. Thomas on the bottom left, photo taken at The Canadian Clock Museum

Berlin, Ontario, was renamed Kitchener in 1916, due to anti-German sentiment during World War I. This change provides a useful reference when dating Pequegnat clocks, as labels, movements, or dials marked “Berlin” indicate the clock was made in 1916 or earlier, while those marked “Kitchener” were produced after 1916. However, many Pequegnat models were produced over an extended period, making it challenging to pinpoint exact manufacturing dates for specific clocks.

Time and strike movement with a two-toned strike

A common characteristic of Pequegnat movements is the nickel-plated front and back plates. Nickel-plated movements had a more polished, attractive finish, further appealing to customers.

The Pequegnat Clock Company initially used steel plates for their clock movements but later transitioned to brass plates, with the shift occurring around 1907-1908 (though this date is unconfirmed). Steel plates were more susceptible to rust and corrosion, whereas brass offered greater resistance to corrosion and was easier to machine, making it a more suitable material for clockmaking. Despite this transition, Pequegnat continued to nickel-plate the movements to further protect against wear and enhance the perceived quality of the clocks.

The heavy brass-sheathed pendulum bob is visible through a glass panel on the front of the case.

Two Issues

Two factors keep this clock from being in perfect condition. First, a keen eye will notice that it has two strike hammers but only one rod gong. At some point, the second rod broke off. Tuned rods, considered an upgrade in a Pequegnat clock, contribute to a rich and vibrant sound. I have not investigated the movement closely but it appears that the half-hour strike is meant to strike the rod that is missing.

I spoke with the previous owner, who had the clock for several years, and he mentioned that it was already in that condition when he acquired it. He had been in the process of sourcing a new gong block and rod, but due to personal issues, he was forced to sell off his collection before completing the repair.

Rod block on the upper right of the photo

The second is the lack of a label. Labels often contain artwork, company logos, or slogans, adding to the clock’s aesthetic and historical charm. A clock with an intact, legible label is often considered more desirable and can command a higher price than one without.

That said, the case is in very good condition, and despite minor imperfections—such as one or two nicks and a slightly dented lower left front corner—it has held up remarkably well for a 110-year-old clock.

Case Construction and Condition

The case is made of quarter-sawn oak and stained dark oak. Quarter-sawn oak is not a type of oak but is created by cutting the wood logs at a specific angle—perpendicular to the growth rings. Quarter-sawn oak is more stable and less prone to warping, splitting, or twisting over time compared to flat-sawn wood. This makes it an ideal material for long-lasting clock cases.

A simple yet effective crown

The enemy of a clock case—moisture—is effectively mitigated by using quarter-sawn oak.

Most importantly, quarter-sawn oak enhances the grain in any clock case. The dark stain has a rich, elegant appearance, but it requires cleaning and polishing to restore it to its original condition.

A portion of the interior is unstained

For reasons unknown to this writer the company chose not to stain the entire interior of the case. It is not just this clock but other Hamiltons I have seen online.

The Pequegnat name with Berlin as the place of manufacture is on the bottom part of the dial

The clock was available with two types of dials: a plain spun-brass dial and a piecrust dial. This particular clock features a simpler, more understated dial. The dial itself appears to be enamel-coated, distinguishing it from the painted dials typically found on their less expensive models. All Hamiltons had spade hands.

Carved capitals

A notable feature is the two flanking quarter columns adorned with wood-carved capitals.

A Prestigious Clock for the Times

Arthur Pequegnat manufactured a range of clocks for the general public, but for those who could afford it, more ornate and visually appealing options were available. These luxurious designs conveyed a sense of status and sophistication, making them highly attractive parlour clocks.

Two challenges

In the coming weeks, I will be exploring options for the missing rod gong. Should I look for a replacement gong block and rods, or should I consider finding a second rod?

The second challenge is the case. The case appears to be in good condition and is definitely not a candidate for refinishing; however, a light sanding and waxing might be all it needs to give it a refreshed look.

The previous owner did not service the movement, so it will require cleaning. In the meantime, it runs well, keeps accurate time, and strikes—though only on one gong—on the hour.

Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik | Servicing an 8-day Countwheel Strike Movement – Part II

I am currently working on a mantel clock from the Hamburg American Clock Company. This is Part II in a two-part series. For Part I go here.

The Hamburg American Clock Company is otherwise known as Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik or HAU and in many parts of the world, it is simply known as HAC.

HAC mantel clock circa 1926

In Part I, I described the steps taken so far which are disassembly, inspection, cleaning of the parts, and polishing of all pivots. The next steps are bushing work, reassembly, oiling (the mainsprings were oiled in a previous step), and finally, testing.

I believe this is the No. 36 movement by HAC.

HAC clock movement
HAC clock movement #36

The wheels that spin the fastest typically show the most bushing wear, but wear can also appear in other areas, such as the main wheels, which endure significant torque. For instance, I observed punch marks on the cap side of each mainspring barrel. While punching around any bushing hole is generally poor practice, it appears this was done at some point in the clock’s history and can’t be reversed. Nonetheless, the repair seems to have held up well.

Bushing Work

I have seen similar movements with much more wear than this one, but I felt that some bushing work was necessary to extend the clock’s lifespan.

Bergeon Bushing Machine
Bergeon Bushing Machine

Six Bergeon brass bushings were installed in total. For the time side (T), bushings were placed at T1 (front and back) and T3 (back). For the strike side (S), bushings were installed at S3 (back), S2 (front), and S4 (front). The numbers indicate the wheel location in the train beginning from the bottom. A couple of pivot holes were borderline, but I decided to leave them as they are.

Reassembly

It pays to be patient and methodical during reassembly. Rushing can lead to mistakes, such as missing steps or improperly aligning parts, which could cause malfunctions or even damage later. Taking the time to carefully double-check the placement of parts, and ensure everything is in its correct place will help ensure the reassembly is smooth and successful.

An older HAC movement, without the barrel cutouts

Once the wheels are in place the lever and there is only one multi-arm ever that resides between the plates. Position it such that the long arm rests in one of the deep slots of the count wheel while a short arm is placed in the cut out of the cam wheel (as above).

Positioning the pivots is a delicate process, and any forceful handling can result in a bent or broken pivot. In this, as in all cases when aligning pivots, a pivot locator is your best tool.

Pivot locator

My usual practice is to position all the wheels and the lever(s) on the plate with the movement posts, first. Once the wheels are correctly located, I lower the front plate onto the back plate. I secure two nuts to the mainspring end which prevents the movement plates from coming apart as I position the upper wheels in the train.

The pin-wheel, which is uppermost and one wheel removed from the fly on the strike side, is placed in approximately the 12 o’clock position, the warning position. At the same time the hammer paddle is positioned between two of the points on the star wheel. More than once I have had to go back in to make minor adjustments when the paddle hangs up on one of the star points. It looks like this one is also a candidate for that very adjustment.

A Timetrax machine is used to adjust the beat and the rate of the movement.

The movement has been placed on a test stand and the time side Is in beat and running as it should according to my Timetrax machine. Curiously, the Timetrax manual lists only one HAU/HAC movement, a three-train one but this one is likely similar to Junghans bracket clock movements which runs at 164 bpm. Junghans is mentioned for comparison because, by 1930, the company had successfully taken full control of HAC.

Testing

The testing phase is crucial in the process of servicing a clock, often taking the most time because it ensures that the clock is functioning properly before it is reunited with its case.

On the test stand

During this phase, the clock is put through various operational checks to simulate real-time performance, which helps in identifying any issues that may not have been apparent during the initial servicing or cleaning process. Issues such over-tightened or loose components can present themselves as well as problems with the escapement mechanism.

The testing phase serves as an important diagnostic step to identify what further repairs or adjustments may be needed.

This concludes the servicing of an 8-day HAU/HAC movement. If you have any comments or feedback on any of the steps in the process, please feel free to share!

Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik | Servicing an 8-day Countwheel Strike Movement – Part I

Among clock collectors and admirers, the Hamburg American Clock Company is a well-known German company. It is otherwise known as Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik or HAU and in many parts of the world, it is simply known as HAC.

Time and strike mantel clock, shown without the crown and as purchased

About the Company

The company was formed in Germany in 1873 by Paul Landenberger and Phillipp Lang. Originally called Landenberger and Lang, it became the Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik in 1891. The company was very active from 1885 onward, became a cooperative in the mid-1920s, and eventually merged with Junghans, one of the world’s largest clock companies, in 1930.

Original investors insisted that “American” be in the company name but “American” also refers to the manufacturing system adopted from America. The name of the company adds confusion to the novice repair person who might assume that what they are working on is an American-made clock.

HAU adopted the cross arrows as their trademark in 1892, and it became synonymous with the brand.

HAC trademark
HAC trademark

In 1925, a few years before its merger with Junghans, the company had a workforce of 2,200 individuals. Junghans remains a successful and thriving company today, specializing in high-end watches.

Condition of Case and Remarks

The case is in very good condition but was missing the crown when I purchased the clock in 2021. Since then, I have sourced a crown, and based on the research I have conducted online, it appears to be the correct “topper” for this clock.

A crown was sourced and it definitely improves the look

The dial face is in good condition and shows some wear but not like the heavily worn dials I have seen on similar HAC clocks.

A commemorative brass plaque at the base reads: “The Rev. J. H. Cox Chyndale Wes’ Church Aug. 1926.” I assume this church is in the UK, but my online search yielded no information about this person. However, this inscription helps date the clock to no later than 1926. It is possible the clock may have been on a retailer’s shelf for several months or even up to a year or more before that date.

The Movement | Notes and First Steps in Servicing

In typical HAC fashion, the movement is robust and compact and it is a countwheel strike. The spring barrels are capped in the usual manner but feature four holes that make the mainspring visible. Earlier HAC movements had fully enclosed barrels—perhaps a cost-saving measure to use less brass! Otherwise, everything else is standard HAC.

Four nuts hold the movement plates. Once separated I removed the parts and divided the time and strike wheels.

Take careful note of two wires protruding from the rear plate. They act as tension springs, one for the strike hammer and on the opposite side of the movement, another for the lifting lever. These can easily break off, so handle the movement with care.

After disassembling the movement, it was cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. My aim wasn’t to achieve the shiniest brass possible but to ensure the brass and steel parts were thoroughly cleaned. There was some rust on two movement posts, which I removed using emery cloth. All parts were thoroughly dried.

The process may vary, but I moved on to polishing the pivots next. Since pivots are quite delicate, especially the fly, it’s important to handle them with care. Avoid applying excessive pressure on the pivot when using a metal lathe for polishing.

Polishing a pivot
Polishing a pivot with an emery board

I know some repairers prefer to avoid servicing mainsprings due to the difficulty of extracting them. However, it is essential to do so for several reasons. Clean and lubricated mainsprings ensure consistent power, enhancing the clock’s accuracy and performance. Additionally, it provides an opportunity to inspect for defects, cracks, and rust and replace them if necessary.

Once cleaned and lubricated, the springs are returned to their barrels using a spring winder such as the one made by Olie Baker.

Mauthe Horse Crown spring barrel in Olie Baker spring winder
Spring barrel in Olie Baker spring winder, with an appropriately sized collar ready to be inserted in the barrel to extract the spring

Since brass is softer than steel pivots one should expect some wear on the bushing holes. There are parts of a clock movement that exhibit more wear than other parts.

For instance, the wheels that spin the fastest are often the areas that show the most bushing wear but wear can show up in other places as well. I noticed punch marks on the cap side of each mainspring barrel. While punching around any bushing hole is generally poor practice, it appears this was done at some point in the clock’s history and can’t be reversed. Nonetheless, the repair seems to have held up well.

Next Steps

After inspecting and cleaning the movement, and polishing the pivots, the next step is to install new bushings. In my next article, I will focus on this process, along with the reassembly and testing of the movement.

Safely Transport and Pack Antique Clocks: Expert Guide

How to Safely Transport and Pack Antique Clocks

Transporting antique clocks requires extra care and attention due to their delicate movements and fragile components such as glass, and chime/strike rods. Whether you’re moving a clock across town, or shipping it across the country, proper packing and handling are crucial to prevent damage. This guide will walk you through the steps needed to transport and pack your antique clocks securely.

A tall case clock poses the greatest challenge for shipping

Supplies

Before you begin, collect the necessary materials to ensure a safe packing process. Here’s a checklist of essential supplies:

  • Bubble wrap
  • Packing paper
  • Foam sheets or padding
  • Small zip-lock bags (for loose parts)
  • Sturdy moving boxes
  • Packing peanuts or other filler material
  • Painter’s tape or masking tape that is safe for wood
  • Labels and markers
  • Shock-absorbent material (such as foam corners)

Remove Any Loose Parts

Antique clocks often have fragile or loose parts that can shift during transport, potentially causing damage. Safely removing these components before packing is key.

If the clock is a pendulum model, carefully remove the pendulum and wrap it in bubble wrap. Place it in a separate small box or wrap in cardboard to be placed within the larger box.

For weight-driven clocks, remove the weights, label them left, right, centre, and wrap each one individually in foam or bubble wrap. Store them in a separate container.

If your clock has removable glass panels or doors, carefully take them out to prevent cracking. The glass is often the most vulnerable component and can be challenging to protect completely. Wrap them in thick layers of bubble wrap or foam and label them as fragile.

Place clock keys, winding cranks, or any small parts in zip-lock bags, label them clearly, and tape them to the outside of the clock, or pack them with the pendulum and weights.

Secure the Movement

The clock’s movement is delicate and should be secured to prevent internal damage during transport.

For clocks with Pendulums secure the movement by placing a piece of crumpled, non-acidic packing paper or soft foam inside the case. This will stop internal components from shifting. For wall clocks, tape or immobilize the suspension spring to prevent it from moving. The suspension spring and rod may be removed but instructions for reinstallation should be included within the packaging.

If your clock has chime rods or bells, be sure to wrap these areas carefully with soft padding to prevent them from moving or hitting against other parts. Some clocks will have rod locks which must be engaged prior to packaging.

Twistable rod lock for a German box clock

Wrap the Clock Case

The clock’s case is as important as the movement, and any damage to it can decrease the clock’s value.

For wooden clocks, use painter’s tape or masking tape or at the very least a tape safe to use on wood. Secure any loose doors or panels to avoid movement. Wrap the entire case in bubble wrap, paying special attention to corners and edges. For best results use corner protectors.

If the front glass is fixed and can’t be removed, place padding over the glass and then wrap the entire case in several layers of bubble wrap. Avoid pressing too hard on the glass when wrapping.

Place in a Sturdy Box

Choosing the right box is key to safely transporting an antique clock. Pick a box that is slightly larger than the clock, allowing for at least 2-3 inches of padding on all sides.

Fill the bottom of the box with a thick layer of packing peanuts or foam. Place the wrapped clock in the center of the box and fill the surrounding space with more peanuts or padding until the clock is snug and immobile. Ensure that no part of the clock is directly touching the sides of the box.

A poorly packed clock that did not survive shipping

For extra protection, place the packed box inside a second larger box with another layer of packing material between the two boxes.

Include an audio/video guide on a USB stick with instructions for setting up the clock once it arrives.

Label the Box/Instructional guide

Proper labeling is important, especially if the clock is going to be handled by others.

Clearly mark the box as “FRAGILE” on all sides. Unfortunately, labeling a package as “fragile” can sometimes invite rough handling, and a clock may still suffer damage despite careful packing.

If necessary, include handling instructions like “Do Not Tip” or “Open with Care” to make handlers aware of its delicate nature.

Transporting the Clock

If you’re moving the clock in your own vehicle, keep it upright and avoid placing it near heavy items that could shift and damage the clock. Make sure it is secured in the vehicle to prevent movement during turns or sudden stops.

If you’re shipping the clock, use a reliable courier service that offers fragile item shipping. Consider insuring the clock for its full value in case of accidents during transit.

Reassembling After Transport

Once the clock reaches its destination, carefully unpack and reassemble the parts.

Once the clock is safely in place, reattach the pendulum and any weights you previously removed. If the weights are labeled as L for left, C for center, and R for right, place the weights according to these labels.

Ensure the clock is level in its new position to avoid any mechanical issues.

Let the clock acclimatize to the new setting. After moving, allow the clock to settle before winding it or starting the movement.

Additional Tips

If you’re unsure about packing an antique clock on your own, consider hiring professional antique movers or packers who specialize in fragile and valuable items. Pass the cost onto the recipient.

A clock like this necessitates professional packing

Before disassembling, take photos of the clock in its current state to assist with reassembly and serve as documentation in case of damage.

After moving, inspect the clock for any issues. Minor adjustments to the pendulum or chime may be necessary.

By following these steps, you can protect your antique clock and ensure it reaches its destination intact. Proper packing and handling are the keys to preserving your clock’s historical and monetary value during transport.

That being said, I have had a few bad experiences with clocks that were poorly packed and arrived significantly damaged during shipping.

Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator

One example is the Gustav Becker wall clock shown above. In 2016, after my retirement, my wife purchased the clock for me from the USA. Although it arrived damaged, I was able to repair it, and it continues to run well to this day.

Because of this experience, I am hesitant to buy clocks online that require shipping, as I worry they may be damaged in transit.

The Stories Behind My Antique and Vintage Clocks

I often wonder about the stories behind my clocks.

Antique and vintage clocks evoke a time when life seemed simpler, a stark contrast to today’s frenetic pace. Old clocks serve as living memories, cherished relics of people and places that are long gone but not forgotten.

Ideally, they should be passed down through generations. Yet, when I look at online marketplaces, it’s clear that many clocks no longer stay within their original families. I can’t help but wonder—has sentimentality lost its place in today’s world?

Out of the 35 clocks displayed throughout our home (a small part of my collection), I wish I knew the stories behind every single one of them. If only they could talk! What tales they would share.

Still, two of my clocks come with stories that I hold dear to my heart.

Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock
Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock

One of my clocks survived the 1917 Halifax Explosion. It is a Junghans Crispi wall clock. I know this because the previous owner had kept it in their family for over 100 years. It wasn’t in the condition you see it in today, though. It came to me as a box of parts, and I imagine they decided it was time to let it go after holding onto it for so long. They hoped that whoever bought it would bring it back to its former glory.

After restoring the clock, I contacted the former owner to show them what I’d done, sending them a photo of the clock in its restored state. I never heard back and I assume they experienced a bit of seller’s remorse.

However, I often look at the clock and try to imagine that fateful day, December 6, 1917, when it fell from the wall in a modest North Halifax home and broke into dozens of pieces.

Ingraham Huron shelf clock

Another story belongs to my Ingraham Huron shelf clock (circa 1878). It was a rare find considering it was made between 1878 and 1880. Some might call the style a balloon clock. It came from a small village outside Bridgewater, Nova Scotia. My wife and I made a day of the trip, enjoying lunch and some shopping after picking up the clock from an elderly couple who were in the process of separating.

The clock’s story unfolded when we met the couple selling it. The gentleman, in his early seventies, recalled seeing the clock in his grandmother’s home when he was a child. After some conversation, we learned that the couple was separating amicably, with the wife planning to move into an apartment nearby. “We need to get rid of a lot of stuff,” he told us. It was a bittersweet moment, knowing they were parting with something tied to childhood memories. My wife and I left with the clock, reflecting on how our connection to objects, even sentimental ones, can change over time.

It seems sentimentality can have a price. People grow tired of the things they once cherished or feel the need to unburden themselves of objects tied to past relationships and memories. Nostalgia can bring comfort, but for some, it may not be enough to hold onto the past.

I often wonder what will happen to my clocks when I’m gone. My wife knows that I’m not emotionally attached to all of them. Some were simply acquisitions that served to give me projects that helped me grow as a hobbyist. Yet, there are several clocks that I hope my children will keep—the ones I’ve spent countless hours restoring, the ones with stories and history.

Among them are my twelve Arthur Pequegnat Canadian-made clocks, two Vienna regulators, a Seth Thomas Empire-style clock, a Sessions Beveled No. 2, my Ingraham Huron, and my Junghans Crispi wall clock.

These clocks represent a blend of history, personal connection, and the passion I’ve poured into them. I think my kids will appreciate that.

How to Remove and Service a Mainspring Enclosed in a Clock Barrel

Mainspring and barrel cap

A clock spring barrel is a cylindrical component found in spring-driven clocks. Its primary function is to house the mainspring, which stores energy to power the clock.

The mainspring barrel works like this

The mainspring is a tightly coiled strip of metal that, when wound, stores potential energy. The barrel holds the mainspring in place and allows it to unwind in a controlled manner, releasing energy to drive the clock’s gears and ultimately the hands.

Mainspring barrel
Mainspring barrel

The arbour, a shaft running through the center of the barrel, is connected to the winding mechanism by means of a gear. One end of the arbour accommodates a key, used to wind the spring. The other end of the arbour connects to the movement plate. When wound, the arbour twists the mainspring, storing energy. As the mainspring unwinds, it turns the barrel, which transmits power to the clock’s gear train. And that’s it!

A time-only clock made by Empire with a single barrel

A typical clock may have one, two, or even three barrels.

In a clock with a single barrel, the mainspring powers only a timekeeping train. Clocks with two barrels use one to power the time train and the other for the strike train. In clocks with three barrels, each barrel powers a separate function: one for the time train, one for the strike train, and one for the chime function.

Why remove the mainspring

Part of servicing a clock movement involves checking and cleaning the mainsprings.

Over time, the mainspring(s) can accumulate old oil, dirt, and debris, which can impede its smooth operation. Removing the mainspring from the barrel allows for proper cleaning and lubrication, ensuring the clock runs efficiently.

Removing the spring allows you to apply fresh mainspring oil evenly along the entire length of the spring. But that is not the only reason.

Mainsprings can weaken, crack, or break after years of use.

Removing the mainspring from the barrel allows you to thoroughly inspect it for any signs of wear, fatigue, or damage that might require replacement. If the spring is in good condition but the hook end is cracked, it can be reused by cutting the spring and fashioning a new hook end. However, this will make the spring slightly shorter. This task is best suited for an experienced clockmaker. That said, the most straightforward solution is to simply replace the spring.

If the mainspring is no longer functioning properly (e.g., losing power too quickly, damaged, or completely broken), it must be removed and replaced.

Broken mainspring for barrel
Broken mainspring

Regular maintenance, including removing the mainspring when necessary, helps prolong the life of the clock and ensures reliable running.

Remove the barrel from the clock movement:

Complete disassembly of the movement is necessary before working on the mainspring barrels. However, it’s worth noting that some German clocks are designed to allow the barrel to be removed without fully disassembling the entire movement, provided that only a broken mainspring needs to be replaced/repaired.

Ensure the mainspring is fully unwound before proceeding. If it is still wound, use a let-down tool to gradually release the tension.

The letdown key
The letdown key

The barrel consists of a cylindrical case and a cap. The cap is press-fitted in place and must be removed.

Hold the barrel in a gloved hand with the cap facing your palm (and the arbour between fingers), then give it a quick tap against a block of wood. The shoulder on the arbour inside the cap is enough to be able to supply even pressure to the centre of the cap and pop it off. This method ensures that there is no damage, and no scratches, plus it’s very simple to do.

Exercise caution to prevent bending or damaging the barrel. Although a screwdriver can be used to pry open the barrel, the risk of bending the cap or causing unsightly scratches is too great.

A mainspring winder

Attach the mainspring to a mainspring winder by securing the inner end of the mainspring to the winding arbor of the tool.

Mauthe Horse Crown spring barrel in Olie Baker spring winder
Mainspring barrel in Olie Baker spring winder, collar readied for the spring

Wind the mainspring slightly to loosen it from the barrel walls. Insert an appropriately sized mainspring collar and slowly unwind the mainspring into the collar and then gently remove it from the barrel.

Use thick leather gloves to handle the mainspring

Wind the spring again to remove it from the collar and then relax the spring for servicing.

The mainspring is inspected for damage, dirt, or rust. I use a Scotch-Brite scouring pad to clean the mainspring of dirt and debris. After cleaning, I wipe the spring with a soft cloth to remove any residue, and then lubricate it with Keystone mainspring oil.

After servicing, it is time to reinsert the mainspring into the barrel. Wind the mainspring tightly, place the collar back on, and secure the spring within it. Insert the collared spring into the barrel, ensuring the hook end catches on the notch inside. Finally, remove the collar and carefully unwind the spring into the barrel.

Using a mainspring winder such as one made by Olie Baker is the safest and easiest method for removing and re-installing the spring, as it ensures controlled release.

A mainspring can be removed manually, and there are plenty of YouTube videos available that demonstrate how to do it “properly.”

In Summary

It’s important to mention that there are specific barrel issues, such as broken catches or bulging barrels, which fall outside the scope of this article.

The mainspring barrel houses the mainspring and enables controlled energy release to drive the clock’s gears and hands. Proper maintenance of the mainspring, including its removal for cleaning and inspection, is essential to prolong the clock’s life. Regular servicing, including checking for wear and replacing damaged mainsprings, helps maintain the clock’s performance and longevity.

Three Canadian Antique Clocks Won at Auction

About a year ago, I shifted my focus to collecting clocks made in Canada or those with a Canadian connection. Of course, there are exceptions if a particularly interesting clock comes along. In keeping with my goal, I won three Canadian clocks this week at auction: an Arthur Pequegnat Hamilton “Tall”, an Arthur Pequegant Dandy, and an ogee crafted by the Canada Clock Company of Ontario. All are shelf or mantel clocks. Two are spring-driven while the third is powered by weights.

Since the bidding was online, I don’t have the clocks yet, but I expect them to arrive within the next week or so.

Arthur Pequegnat Hamilton “Tall“

I’m not sure what inspired me to take a photo of the Hamilton during my visit to The Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario this past summer—but I did! Maybe it was a secret wish to own one someday.

Pequegnat Hamilton shelf clock

The clock I photographed features a piecrust dial, while the one I won at auction has a plain dial. Both styles were available in the early 1900s.

Auction photo http://www.harrisandsonsauctions.com/

The Arthur Pequegnat Hamilton “tall” shelf clock is a classic piece from one of Canada’s most renowned clockmakers. Named after the city of Hamilton, Ontario, this model is part of Pequegnat’s line of shelf and mantel clocks and showcases the craftsmanship that made the company famous.

Auction photo http://www.harrisandsonsauctions.com/

The Hamilton “Tall” features a distinctive upright design, making it stand out among other Pequegnat clocks. It had either a piecrust or plain dial (as I mentioned), adding to its collectible nature. The clock is typically housed in a sturdy wooden case often made with quarter-sawn oak, with half columns and capitals, an attractive crown, making it a simple yet elegant style.

The Hamilton “Tall” features an 8-day time and strike movement with distinctive nickel-plated movement plates, powered by a spring-driven movement. It strikes on both the hour and half-hour.

The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company, founded in 1903, was one of the few successful clock manufacturers in Canada, with the Hamilton model being one of its many iconic designs. As Pequegnat clocks were made exclusively in Canada (Berlin, later Kitchener, Ontario), they hold significant value for Canadian clock collectors, and owning a Hamilton “tall” shelf clock is like holding a piece of Canadian horological history.

It’s often challenging to determine a clock’s condition from auction photos, but this one seems to be in good shape. Unfortunately, it lacks a label, which is a minor disappointment.

Arthur Pequegnat Dandy

The Dandy is a compact and attractive mantel clock, featuring a solid wooden case, often crafted from oak. The case design is simple yet elegant, with clean lines and minimal ornamentation, giving it a classic, timeless appeal. The dial is plain with black Arabic numerals, making it easy to read.

Auction photo http://www.harrisandsonsauctions.com/

The Dandy is also powered by an 8-day time and strike spring-driven movement. It strikes the hour and the half-hour. The movement is well-known for its durability and precision, hallmarks of Pequegnat craftsmanship.

Auction photo http://www.harrisandsonsauctions.com/

Although not as grand as some of the larger models like the “Hamilton,” it has its own charm, particularly for collectors who appreciate smaller, more understated clocks.

From the auction photos, I can tell the clock is in average condition, which is reflected in the relatively low price I paid for it.

Canada Clock Company 30-hour ogee with Alarm

The Canada Clock Company’s 30-hour ogee clock is a significant piece in the history of Canadian clockmaking. The ogee clock design itself was popular in North America during the 19th century, and the Canada Clock Company produced their own version during their brief existence.

Auction photo http://www.harrisandsonsauctions.com/

The ogee clock is named for its case design, which features the distinctive “S” or double curve molding along the front, giving it an elegant and classic appearance.

The Canada Clock Company’s ogee clocks were typically made with wooden cases, often finished in mahogany or rosewood veneer. The clock has a large rectangular face, featuring Roman numerals, and a clear glass lower panel that reveals the pendulum.

Auction photo http://www.harrisandsonsauctions.com/

This model is equipped with a 30-hour movement, which means it needs to be wound daily. The movement is powered by weights, which descend slowly as the clock runs. The clock only strikes the hour. The use of a 30-hour movement made this a more affordable option for consumers at the time compared to clocks with 8-day movements. This clock also has an alarm feature.

Auction photo http://www.harrisandsonsauctions.com/

The auctioneer advised that there is an issue with the coil or rod gong, something I will look into once I receive the clock. The case, I am told, has been refinished.

The Canada Clock Company operated in Ontario during the 1870s and early 1880s. It was one of Canada’s first significant clock manufacturers, aiming to compete with the American clock industry. Although the company’s existence was short-lived, their clocks are highly valued by collectors today for their historical importance and their role in establishing Canadian clockmaking. The 30-hour ogee clock is a prime example of a typical mid-19th-century clock that found its way into many Canadian homes.

It was a very successful auction day. For each clock, my wife and I adhered to our strategy of setting a maximum bid well beforehand, which helped us secure all three pieces effectively.

In sum, the Hamilton is a classic shelf clock with a distinctive upright design, a quarter-sawn oak case. Though lacking a label and with condition difficult to assess from photos, it appears to be in good shape.

The Dandy is a compact mantel clock with a simple, elegant oak case and plain dial. Its condition is average, reflecting the modest auction price.

The 30-hour Ogee is a classic 19th-century ogee clock with “S” curve molding and a 30-hour movement. It features an alarm and has a refinished case, with a noted issue with the gong.

Each clock adds a unique piece of Canadian horological history to my collection.

Mechanical Clocks Guide | Tips for Selecting the Ideal Antique or Vintage Clock Gift

Are you searching for a unique gift for a friend or family member? Have you ever considered giving an antique or vintage clock? It is the perfect, memorable gift.

Whether you’re familiar with antique and vintage clocks or completely new to the world of horology, you will need guidance in finding the right clock for that special someone. Here are a few pointers, along with explanations of some common terms you face.

Why Choose an Antique or Vintage Clock?

Last year, I sold a clock to a young woman looking for a unique gift for her father. She told me it was exactly what she wanted because it reminded her of a clock they had when she was a child. Sentimental value, a love for antiques, a return to our simpler past, or the unique charm of an old mechanical clock are reasons why people are drawn to these timeless clocks.

Antique, Vintage or Collectible

Determining the age of a clock can be challenging, especially since listings often don’t specify the exact year the clock was made. However, you might come across phrases like “mid-century”, antique, collectible, or vintage which can give you a general sense of its age. A quick search online can also help you narrow it down.

As a rule of thumb, an antique is something that is over 100 years old, while a vintage item is between 30 and 100 years old. Anything less than 30 years old may sometimes be considered vintage, but it’s often labeled as collectible instead.

Choosing the Right Type of Clock

Space is a key consideration.

Seth Thomas Mantel clock

With the trend toward smaller homes, not everyone has room for a large clock. Mantel clocks, for instance, require a shelf or table. Some are small, time-only pieces, while others have more complex movements like Westminster chimes and are housed in larger cases. Alarm and desk clocks are the most compact.

German wall box clock

Wall clocks are easier to place and come in a wide range of sizes, from small cuckoo clocks to large box clocks and Vienna regulators.

Ridgeway grandfather clock

Floor clocks, also known as grandfather or grandmother clocks, tall-case, long-case, or hall clocks, are the hardest to accommodate. Unless the recipient has sufficient floor space and an appreciation for such a clock, it will not be the best choice.

What About a Non-Working Clock?

A working clock that has been recently serviced by a skilled clock repairer is ideal. However, if the clock is intended more as a decorative piece, a non-working clock may be less expensive. Just be cautious if it has a replacement quartz movement and know what you’re buying.

Tips for Buying a Clock

Here are a few tips to keep in mind:

  • Look for a working clock; it’s more likely to have been well cared for.
  • Consider sources like Facebook Marketplace, eBay, local online for-sale sites (in Nova Scotia, we have Kijiji), reputable estate auctions, antique stores, and word of mouth.
  • Most common clocks are reasonably priced because they are plentiful though rare or historically significant ones can be more expensive.
  • Meet the seller in person if you can. You can check the condition of the item firsthand, which might reveal issues not visible in photos or descriptions. You can ask the seller questions directly about the item’s history, usage, and any other details that might be important. You can verify the authenticity of the item, which is particularly important for valuable or collectible items and you can often negotiate the price more effectively in person.
  • Avoid clocks made in China or Korea, especially those with directional arrows around the winding points. They look inexpensive and are made with cost-saving in mind. The powerful mainsprings of a 31-day movement can be dangerous if they break.
  • The brand of the clock isn’t necessarily important. Many American clockmakers produced both high-end and budget-friendly models.
  • Consider whether it matters to you if the clock has been altered. For example, many old ogee clocks have had their movements replaced when the original failed. In the clock world, these are called marriages, and they may or may not be important to you.
  • Whenever possible, carefully inspect the clock in person before purchasing. Surprises are rarely pleasant when your online purchase doesn’t meet expectations.

A little research goes a long way, but knowing nothing is worse than knowing just a little.

I hope these tips give you something to consider as you search for that perfect clock. While I’m not in the business of selling clocks, I do occasionally sell one locally to keep my collection manageable.

How to Determine the Age of an Antique Clock: Strategies and Tips

Determining the age of a clock can be challenging, especially since listings often don’t specify the exact year the clock was made. However, you might come across phrases like “mid-century”, antique, collectible, or vintage which can give you a general sense of its age. If the description is accurate, it provides a good starting point for determining the age of the clock.

As a rule of thumb, an antique is something that is over 100 years old, while a vintage item is between 30 and 100 years old. Anything less than 30 years old may sometimes be considered vintage, but it’s often labeled as collectible instead.

Mauthe clock from the 1950s

Dating a clock can indeed be challenging, but it’s an essential part of understanding its history, value, and significance. Here are some thoughts and strategies to help narrow down the age of a clock:

Identifying Maker’s Marks and Signatures

One of the most reliable ways to date a clock is by identifying the maker’s mark or signature. Some clockmakers stamped or engraved their name, logo, or serial number on the movement, dial, or case. Researching the history of the maker may not offer an exact date but will often provide a time frame for when the clock was produced.

McLachlan tall-case clock with painted dial was made in Newton Stewart, Scotland in 1848

Some manufacturers used serial numbers that can be cross-referenced with production records or databases maintained by collectors or horological societies. Having a serial number doesn’t always guarantee that it can be cross-referenced with a database, as clock databases are often not accessible online.

This Tompion tall case clock can be accurately dated

Analyzing the Style and Design

The design of the clock case can provide clues to its age. For example, Gothic Revival designs were popular in the mid-19th century, while Art Deco styles were prevalent in the 1920s and 1930s. Recognizing these stylistic trends can help you estimate the clock’s production period.

Another example is the German box clock, which gained popularity after Vienna-style clocks fell out of fashion in the early 20th century, remaining in vogue until around 1935.

Vienna-style time and strike clock by Mauthe C. 1900

The style of the clock’s dial can also be indicative of its age. Painted dials were common in the early 19th century, while enamel and porcelain dials became more popular later on. The use of Roman versus Arabic numerals can also offer hints, with Arabic numerals becoming more common in the 20th century.

Logos can be used to date a clock. Trademark logos are typically stamped on the clock movement. Manufacturers modified their trademark design from time to time. As companies grew and evolved, their branding shifted to reflect new values, target markets, or aesthetic trends.

Evolution of the Mauthe brand

Movement Type

The type of movement inside the clock can also be a good indicator of its age. For example, early mechanical movements with verge escapements date back to the 17th and 18th centuries, while spring-driven movements became common from 1840 onward.

The introduction of electric movements in the early 20th century marked a significant shift in clockmaking.

Sessions electric clock from the early 1920s

If the clock has a pendulum, its design can also be telling. Early pendulums were often long and ornate, while later ones might be shorter and simpler.

The introduction of the torsion pendulum, used in anniversary clocks, dates to the late 19th century.

Many clocks made after 1950 used an adjustable floating balance escapement that was less sensitive to variations in temperature and external influences. This stability results in more accurate timekeeping compared to traditional escapements.

Materials Used

The type of wood or veneer used in the clock’s case can help date it. Certain woods were more popular in specific eras, such as oak in the late 19th century or walnut in the early 20th century. Rosewood veneer was particularly popular in the mid-19th century, often used to create an elegant and luxurious finish on clock cases.

The materials used in the clock’s movement and case can also provide clues. For example, brass was widely used in clock movements from the 18th century onwards, while cheaper metal alloys became common in the 20th century.

Patent Dates

Some clocks, especially those from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, include patent dates on the movement or case. While the patent date itself doesn’t indicate when the clock was made, it provides a “no-earlier-than” date. For example, if a patent date of 1915 is stamped on the movement, the clock was made after that year.

Labels and Documentation

Many clocks, especially those from the 19th and early 20th centuries, came with paper labels on the back or inside the case. These labels often include the maker’s name, the place of manufacture, and sometimes even the model or patent date. For American-made clocks, the address of the label printer often provides a clue to the clock’s manufacturing date as shops often relocated.

Hamilton Clock Company label

The country of origin can also influence the style and dating of a clock. For instance, certain types of clocks were more prevalent in specific regions, like the tall-case (grandfather) clocks in England during the 18th century, or the ornate mantel clocks popular in France in the 19th century.

If the clock has been in the same family for generations, old sales receipts, repair records, or original packaging can provide valuable information about its age.

Any accompanying documentation with the clock could offer some valuable clues. The certificate of guarantee from the retailer [see below] indicates a sale date of May 18, 1930, meaning the clock was manufactured before this date. It could have been made several months or even a year or two prior, though the exact date of manufacture remains unknown.

Research and Expert Consultation

There are many reference books and catalogs dedicated to specific types of clocks, makers, and periods. These resources can be invaluable in identifying and dating a clock.

Clock magazines provide well-researched insights into clocks

Tran Duy Ly is a well-known author and expert in the field of antique clocks and horology. He is particularly renowned for his extensive series of reference books on antique clocks, which are highly regarded by collectors, dealers, and enthusiasts. His books typically feature detailed information, photographs, and pricing guides for various types of clocks, including those by specific manufacturers like Seth Thomas, Ansonia, and Gilbert.

Ly’s works have become essential resources for those looking to identify, appraise, and learn more about antique clocks, and his name is synonymous with authoritative clock references in the horological community.

If you’re uncertain about the age of a clock, consulting with a professional appraiser or horologist can provide you with a more accurate assessment. Experts can often recognize subtle details and variations that indicate the clock’s age.

Conclusion

Dating a clock requires a combination of research, observation, and sometimes expert consultation. By examining the maker’s marks, design, movement type, materials, and other characteristics, you can often narrow down the clock’s age to a specific period or even a precise year. Understanding these details not only enhances the clock’s historical significance but also helps in determining its value and collectibility.

The Myth of Over-Winding: Clarifying a Common Misconception

Broken mainspring for barrel

In the fascinating world of horology, many terms and expressions are often misunderstood or misused. A classic example is the frequent confusion between the words “mantel” and “mantle” to describe certain types of clocks. While “mantel” refers to a shelf over a fireplace, “mantle” is something you wear, like a cloak.

Another pervasive myth is the notion of “over-winding” a clock. How many times have you heard, “It was running fine until I over-wound it”? This phrase is commonly found on clock forums, Facebook groups, and among enthusiasts. However, attributing clock malfunctions to over-winding is a misunderstanding of how clocks operate.

American time and strike clock movement

While it is technically possible for a mainspring to be damaged by excessive tightening—winding it until it’s tight and then continuing to wind it further—this is not the primary cause of most clock failures. The real issues often stem from different sources.

Consider the spring barrel, as shown in the photo below.

When the spring is wound, it coils tightly around the winding arbor, with the other end hooked to a small stud inside the barrel. This hook can become fatigued over time due to repeated excessive winding or the riveted stud can break free, but this is not the typical cause of a clock stopping.

In American open mainspring clocks, what appears to be “over-winding” is often a result of old oil, rust, and dirt accumulating in the mainspring coil. These contaminants can cause the coil to stick and seize somewhat like the action of an adhesive, making it “seem” as though the clock is “over-wound.”

This spring is re-useable

When I receive a clock that is said to be “overwound”, I use a let-down tool to release the mainspring partially or completely, apply mainspring oil generously, and then rewind the clock. This step will help in some cases, but it’s important to note that it doesn’t replace a thorough cleaning or address other potential issues that might be causing the clock to stop.

The letdown key
The letdown key

Disassembling the movement and removing the mainspring allows for a proper inspection. Dirt and old oil can be cleaned, light rust can be removed with emery paper or steel wool, and heavy rust necessitates the replacement of the mainspring. The spring should also be checked for cracks or breaks. Often, a mainspring in good condition can be salvaged with proper care even if there are minor problems with the connecting section of the spring.

I frequently reuse mainsprings in my clock repairs, as long as they are not “set.” A mainspring is considered “set” when it has developed permanent deformations or has lost its original flexibility and strength due to repeated use or overstressing. In such cases, reusing the mainspring compromises the clock’s reliability and shortens its operational cycle.

When a mainspring is “set,” I typically replace it to ensure the clock functions optimally and to avoid potential issues. If I were operating a clock repair business, I would replace the mainsprings as a standard practice and pass the cost onto the customer.

“C” clamps used to contain the power of the mainspring

Another potential issue is the click mechanism. In some clocks, such as those made by Sessions for example, the click rivets can become fatigued and fail. Inspecting and repairing/replacing this component is a common procedure in clock servicing.

Worn click on Sessions movement

When buying a new clock, do not assume it has been recently serviced unless the seller can confirm it. If there’s no assurance of recent servicing, plan to have the movement serviced as soon as possible either by yourself or a competent professional.

Regular maintenance is crucial for any mechanical clock to ensure its longevity and proper function.

“Over-winding” is a myth that often misguides clock enthusiasts. The real causes of clock issues are typically related to dirt, old oil, or mechanical wear, not the act of winding the clock. Understanding this can help in better troubleshooting and maintaining your cherished antique or vintage clock.

Dive into Antique Clocks: Restoration, History, and Reader Engagement | as per ChatGPT

My daughter asked ChatGPT for the most popular antique clock websites, and it provided a top ten list. Antiquevintageclock.com ranked number 9.

I found the description of the site description interesting and accurate, so I’ll quote ChatGPT’s findings.

The author at work on a clock movement

The Antique and Vintage Clocks Blog (found at [antiquevintageclock.com](http://antiquevintageclock.com)) is a dedicated resource for enthusiasts interested in the history, restoration, and maintenance of antique and vintage clocks. This blog is run by a passionate collector and restorer who shares detailed insights into various clock models, repair techniques, and the historical significance of different timepieces.

Key Features of the Blog:

1. Restoration Projects: – The blog frequently features detailed posts about clock restoration projects, showing before-and-after photos, and explaining the processes involved in bringing an old clock back to life. These posts are valuable for anyone interested in learning how to restore their own clocks.

Repairing a clock dial

2. Historical Context: – In addition to technical advice, the blog provides historical background on various clockmakers, styles, and movements. This context helps readers appreciate the cultural and technological significance of the clocks they own or wish to purchase.

3. Step-by-Step Guides: – The author often publishes step-by-step guides on topics such as cleaning, oiling, and repairing clock mechanisms. These guides are written in a clear and accessible manner, making them useful for both beginners and more experienced collectors.

A barrel is opened up to prepare for mainspring maintenance

4. Clock Reviews: – The blog includes reviews and analyses of specific clock models, highlighting their unique features, historical value, and what to look for when buying similar pieces.

5. Reader Engagement: – The blog encourages interaction with its readers through comments and questions, creating a community of clock enthusiasts who share tips, advice, and experiences.

The Antique and Vintage Clocks Blog is particularly useful for individuals looking to deepen their understanding of antique and vintage clocks and how to care for them, offering a blend of technical knowledge and historical appreciation.

I was delighted to see how accurate and thorough the description was. It perfectly captures the essence of my blog and the dedication I put into each post. The detailed breakdown of the site’s features truly reflects my passion and knowledge that make it such a valuable resource for antique and vintage clock enthusiasts.

Tick talk Tuesday #55 | Mauthe wall clock runs fast

Tick Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is a special time when I respond to readers’ letters and comments about clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. When the comments and questions are especially complex, I consult with fellow clock enthusiasts within my circle to ensure I offer the most precise and helpful answers possible.

RK writes:

I am working on an almost identical clock movement as the one shown on your website above. It was made by Frederick Mauthe. I have restored the movement, inserted many bushings, etc., and during testing have realized that the movement is gaining an hour a day.  I don’t think the pendulum is original and I suppose I am on a quest for a replacement.

Mauthe wall clock

Here is the case.  The finial has been re-glued and altered at the top, and that is another story. Here is the current pendulum: it weighs 0.139 kilos; the distance from the top hook to the bottom of nut under the pendulum is 220 mm. The diameter of the bob 100 mm.  I believe this is too light and too short, but there is no more room in the case.

Mauthe movement showing 2 critical numbers

Do you know what the correct dimensions are for the original pendulum? (Weight and length)

This movement is now working so well and it would be a pity not to be to use it just because I cannot find a replacement pendulum.

Front of Mauthe movement

Thanks for your time.

RK

My reply:

Hi and thanks for your email, RK. On the back of the movement, on the lower left of the last photo, are two numbers. 34 refers to the measurement in centimeters from the top of the suspension spring post to the bottom of the pendulum regulating nut. The second number refers to the beats per minute. Measure the pendulum you have and compare it to the first number.

Regarding the pendulum’s bob weight, I won’t have access to the clock until mid-September. However, I can get the measurements you need at that time if they’re still required.

Discover Canadian Clocks and clocks with a Canadian connection at The Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River

A museum is an institution dedicated to the display of objects of lasting interest and historical value. While museums can showcase a wide variety of items, The Canadian Clock Museum, located in Deep River, Ontario, (Canada) focuses specifically on Canadian clocks and clocks with a Canadian connection.

I first visited the museum in 2013, and this year marked my eighth visit. Each visit has offered a new learning experience, and this one was no different.

Despite its modest size, the museum offers a relaxing experience, with a well-organized flow that guides visitors through displays of various manufacturers and themes.

The informational cards beside each clock provide just enough detail to captivate visitors without overwhelming them. Many of the clocks have fascinating stories, which Curator Allan Symons is more than happy to share, although, sadly, some histories have been lost over time as clocks change hands.

Proof I was there!

A charming feature is the check-in and check-out punch clock cards, done on a Blick Time Recorder clock, that every guest gets to experience to record their visit. Blick Time Recorders was a London, England-based company but they had a Canadian branch that sold them for factories in Ontario, and elsewhere.  The reproduction card was created by a summer student about fifteen years ago from card design options in the Blick Canadian catalog.

Blick Time Recorder

The collection primarily features mechanical clocks, but the museum also boasts the most extensive collection of Snider electric and battery-operated wall and shelf clocks (in the world?), manufactured in Toronto. Harry Snider’s two business names in Toronto covered the periods 1950-1957 and 1957-1976.  His pink and turquoise wall and TV lamp clock designs date to the 1950s (when those colours were popular for fridges, stoves, and bathtubs in homes).

A fraction of the Snider clocks on display

During my visit, a couple arrived at the museum to donate a Snider starburst wall clock with a brass and walnut finish. Curator Symons was grateful for the donation and gave them a personal tour of the museum as a gesture of appreciation.

Although many items are acquired through auction sites and online sales, the museum also receives some pieces as gifts. For items that align with the museum’s theme, shipping costs are covered.

Extensive collection of research material

Though some exhibits remain unchanged over the years, Curator Allan Symons continues to expand and refresh the collection with new and intriguing clocks of all kinds.

So, what’s new this year?

Notably, in the past two years, the museum has acquired a large tall case clock, a wall clock with special historical significance, and IBM time recorder punch clock in addition to other interesting pieces.

Martin Cheney, Montreal Clockmaker

The clock that captured my attention most was a time-only, weight-driven tavern-style wall clock made by Martin Cheney in the 1820s.

Martin Cheney wall clock with “Montreal” printed on the dial

In 1809, Martin Cheney relocated to Montreal from Vermont, where he lived for about twenty-one years. In 1817, he partnered with J. A. Dwight, and together they operated under the name Cheney & Dwight at 104 St. Paul Street, Montreal. The business produced movements, cases, wall and tall case clocks, and banjo clocks. Their partnership lasted until 1830.

This remarkable piece was donated to the museum and stands as a testament to early Canadian craftsmanship. In my view, no serious Canadian clock collection would be complete without a Cheney clock.

IBM Time Recorder

Another notable and unusual piece is the IBM time recorder, which was commonly used in factories and workplaces from the 1920s onward. The employees’ time recorder was made by IBM around 1930 in their Toronto factory. According to the donor, his late father acquired it when he retired from the General Electric factory in Peterborough, Ontario.

This departmental clock was designed to handle up to 100 employees, so large factories would typically have several of these clocks. It is a large and imposing piece, with a robust design that reflects its practical role and the industrial era in which it was used.

IBM time recorder used up until the 1960s

It immediately brought to mind my days as a part-time clerk in an Ottawa department store, where starting the workday was marked by the ritual of clocking in. In my case, it was an electric punch clock, unlike the mechanical one now on display at the museum.

IBM dial

Pequegnat Hall clock

Most Pequegnat clock enthusiasts do not realize that the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company of Kitchener, Ontario, sold kits containing the movement, hands, dial numerals, weights, chains, and pendulums, allowing customers to build custom-sized cases to fit them. And so it is, with a special Pequegnat tall case (hall) clock.

This tall and imposing hall clock case stands out as far more ornate than what you’d typically see on a Pequegnat clock. Its design evokes a strong love-it-or-hate-it reaction, but there’s no denying the intricate craftsmanship of the case.

The clock was donated in October 2023 by a woman in the Montreal area when she was preparing to relocate.

Pequegnat hall clock with an unusual feature

There is more to offer at the museum

For those with a casual interest in clocks, the museum offers a variety of intriguing displays, including an antique phonograph from the Victor Talking Machine Company of Camden, New Jersey, a clockmakers/watchmakers workbenchs, alarm clocks, several fascinating Tramp clocks, a choice of “fun in time” teaching clocks for children, clock radios, and a small collection of Girotti wall clocks (St. Catharines, Ontario) that were popular in the 1960s and ’70s.

The Girotti clocks are not my cup of tea, but they are an interesting interpretation of the 1970s modernistic sculptured style and provide a glimpse into the culture of the late 20th century.

Whether you are a clock enthusiast or just curious about the allure of any museum this one is well worth a visit. Returning visitors will always find something new and fascinating to enjoy. And if you can’t make it in person, Allan offers a virtual tour that will inspire a future visit.

The Legacy of Martin Cheney: Clock-Making in Early Canada

Martin Cheney is not typically the first name that comes to mind when considering the impact of clockmakers on Canadian horology.

Martin Cheney, born in 1778, was part of a prominent American clock-making family. He was one of four sons of Benjamin Cheney (1725-1815) and Elizabeth Long Cheney, who hailed from East Hartford, Connecticut. Benjamin likely trained all his sons in clock-making. The oldest, Asahel, born in 1759, later moved to Vermont. Elisha, born in 1770 and passing in 1847, settled in Berlin, Connecticut.

Dial face, M. Cheney, Montreal

The youngest, Russell, eventually relocated to Putney, Vermont. Martin’s uncle, Timothy Cheney (1731-1795), was also a notable clock-maker in East Hartford, working closely with Benjamin.

By 1803, Martin had moved up the Connecticut River to Windsor, Vermont, where he advertised fine English watches, watch keys, chains, and seals for sale. The majority of the tall case clocks I’ve found online come from his shop in Windsor, Vermont. Based on my research, most of his clocks show a Boston influence.

In the early 1800s, political events in the United States prompted several families to migrate to the British colony of Lower Canada, now known as Canada. In 1809, Martin relocated to Montreal, where he lived for about twenty years. In 1817, he partnered with J. A. Dwight, and together they operated under the name Cheney & Dwight at 104 St. Paul Street, Montreal. The business produced movements, cases, wall and tall case clocks, and banjo clocks. Their partnership lasted until 1830.

In 1827, Martin advertised in a Burlington, Vermont newspaper seeking a journeyman clock-maker to join him in Montreal. Although Cheney continued to craft clocks into the 1830s, little is known about his life beyond that decade. He spent his remaining years in Montreal till his death in 1855 (unconfirmed).

Martin Cheney wall clock

Cheney clocks are highly sought after and command high prices at auction. Their exceptional craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail are evident in every piece.

Adjustable pendulum bob

Until August 2024, I had never seen a Cheney clock in person but, during a recent visit to The Canadian Clock Museum, curator Allan Symons proudly introduced me to one of his most prized acquisitions: a Martin Cheney time-only weight-driven wall clock, crafted in Montreal, Canada in the 1820s.

I didn’t get a chance to examine the movement, but I’m assuming it’s a banjo-style similar to the one in the photo below.

Banjo style movement

Encountering a Martin Cheney clock in person was an experience that deepened my appreciation for the craftsmanship and historical significance of his work particularly during the time he spent in Canada.

The rarity and value of Cheney clocks, combined with their intricate details and the story they tell of early North American clock-making, make them treasures for any horology enthusiast.

While owning such a piece may be well out of reach, the opportunity to see one firsthand was an unforgettable reminder of the skill and character of early Canadian clockmaking.

Discover the Wonders of Horology at the Science Museum in London

The Science Museum in London, England, is one of the city’s most iconic and popular museums, dedicated to inspiring a passion for science in visitors of all ages. Located in the South Kensington area, it is part of the Science Museum Group, which also includes other major museums in the UK.

The museum was founded in 1857 and has since grown into one of the world’s foremost institutions for the collection, preservation, and display of scientific, technological, and medical achievements. It boasts a vast collection of over 300,000 objects that chart the history of innovation and exploration in science and technology.

The Science Museum houses some of the most famous scientific artifacts in the world, including Stephenson’s Rocket (a pioneering early steam locomotive), the first jet engine, and a model of DNA.

Early steam engine (not the Rocket)

The museum is organized into several galleries, each focusing on a specific theme, and while it offers a wealth of experiences to its visitors, the area that captivated me the most was the horology section.

Horology Section | Measuring Time

The horology exhibit at the Science Museum in London, known as the “Measuring Time” gallery, is a fascinating display that showcases the evolution of timekeeping technology and the intricate craftsmanship of clocks and watches.

View of the gallery

The exhibit features an extensive collection of timepieces ranging from early mechanical clocks to modern wristwatches.

George Stratford, left, John May on the right

Among the highlights are medieval astronomical clocks, early pocket watches, and marine chronometers used for navigation.

Atmos clock 1955

A standout section is dedicated to the work of John Harrison, a self-taught clockmaker who solved the problem of longitude at sea with his marine chronometers. These are considered some of the most important timekeeping devices ever created, crucial for safe and accurate navigation.

John Harrison watch

The exhibit includes several ornate astronomical clocks that not only tell time but also track celestial events such as the phases of the moon and the positions of the stars. These clocks are masterpieces of both art and science.

Christopher Pinchbeck

The Clockmakers’ Company collection, one of the oldest in the world, is on display within the museum. It features a range of exquisite clocks and watches, many of which are beautifully decorated and demonstrate the high level of craftsmanship involved in horology.

Original desk from the Clockmakers’ Company

Throughout the exhibit, there are explanations of the technological advancements in timekeeping, from the invention of the pendulum clock by Christiaan Huygens to the development of quartz and atomic clocks. The exhibit explores how these innovations have impacted society, science, and industry.

Zimingzhong exhibit

The museum occasionally hosts temporary exhibits within the horology section that delve deeper into specific aspects of timekeeping, such as the influence of time on culture or the future of time measurement.

In the spring of this year (2024) a special exhibit of Zimingzhong clocks grabbed our attention. What is a Zimingzhong clock? It’s a clock that tells the time; moves, makes a musical sound, and has symbolic significance.

 

These clocks feature elaborate decorations and are typically made from materials like bronze, jade, or lacquered wood.

They reflect the rich artistic traditions and horological expertise of China.

Zimingzhong clocks are not just timekeeping devices but also serve as symbols of status and wealth. They are often considered art pieces, showcasing the skill of Chinese craftsmen.

From the mesmerizing horology section, where intricate timepieces and historic clocks showcase the artistry and precision of timekeeping, to the interactive exhibits that ignite curiosity and wonder, the British Science Museum offers an enriching experience for all.

Tower or Turret clock

Whether you’re exploring the evolution of scientific discoveries or marveling at the ingenuity behind groundbreaking inventions, the Science Museum provides a unique opportunity to appreciate the impact of science on our world and its role in shaping our future.

Thomas Tompion: The Father of English Clockmaking

Thomas Tompion (baptized July 25, 1639– died, November 20th, 1713) was an English clockmaker and watchmaker, often referred to as the “Father of English Clockmaking.” He is renowned for his exceptional craftsmanship and significant contributions to the development of clockmaking during the late 17th and early 18th centuries.

In fact, Tompion is the most celebrated of all English clockmakers.

Thomas Tompion

Born in Bedfordshire from a family of blacksmiths he moved to London in 1671 and was soon employed by the physicist Robert Hooke. Hooke was credited as one of the first scientists to investigate living organisms at the microscopic level. Hooke introduced him to leading scientists and royalty and as a result, Tompion received commisssions from Charles II, William III, and Queen Anne.

His business was based on Water Lane, Fleet Street, and he built a reputation for quality and ingenuity across Europe.

Tompion tall case clock at the Britsh Science museum

Tompion’s clocks and watches were known for their accuracy, elegance, and innovative design. He played a key role in advancing the precision of timekeeping, particularly through his work on escapements and the introduction of the balance spring in watches, which greatly improved their accuracy.

Thomas Tompion time and strike tall case clock – the British Museum

Tompion produced a wide range of timepieces, including table clocks, longcase clocks, bracket clocks, and pocket watches.

His clocks were often highly decorative, featuring intricate engravings and fine materials.

Table or bracket clock made by Tompion for Queen Anne, British Science Museum

He was also a mentor to several important clockmakers, including George Graham, who later became a prominent figure in the field. Graham invented the deadbeat escapement, a crucial improvement over previous escapement designs, allowing for greater accuracy in clocks. Two clocks in my collection, an Arthur Pequegnat Moncton and a Seth Thomas #2 have Graham deadbeat escapments.

Tompion was also Master of the Clockmakers’ Company from 1703 to 1704 (London). He made regulators for Greenwich Royal Observatory – one of the most prestigious commissions of his career.

While visiting the UK this spring, I stopped by Westminster Abbey, where Tompion is laid to rest.

Westminster Abbey

It is fitting that Graham is also buried in the same place.

Located at Westminster Cathedral

Tompion’s work is highly prized by collectors, and many of his clocks are now housed in museums and private collections around the world.

Having a Tompion clock would be a real treasure, but it’s far beyond my budget. The nearest I’ll get to a Tompion clock is seeing one in a museum.

Antiquevintageclock.com Website Statistics | 2024 Analysis

The dashboard that forms part of the WordPress blog package offers a fascinating array of statistical information. It empowers me to track the viewership of my articles and gain insights into readers’ interests, as indicated by the number of clicks, which serves as a valuable measure of engagement.

So far in the year 2024, antiquevintageclock.com has received an impressive total of 67,495 visitors, who collectively generated 122,065 page views. On average, each visitor explored the site with 1.83 views, which tells me that there is a significant level of interest in antique and vintage clocks.

Visitors came from a diverse range of 162 countries. So, let’s take a closer look at the top ten countries that contributed to the website’s viewership:

  1. USA
  2. United Kingdom
  3. Canada
  4. Australia
  5. New Zealand
  6. South Africa
  7. India
  8. Ireland
  9. Netherlands
  10. France

Google “Key Events” is a concise and organized summary of significant events related to a blog site or any other website. It enables me to monitor real-time activity. For example, in a snapshot taken as this article was being written, there were visitors from America, France, Kazakhstan, and Australia.

English-speaking countries are my principle audience

I am located in the beautiful province of Nova Scotia, Canada, write in English and as such I have attracted a significant portion of visitors from predominantly English-speaking countries. My blog’s antique clock content is attracting traffic from English-speaking countries largely because the history and tradition of clockmaking in those countries are well-established.

Many antique clocks originate from English-speaking countries, especially the UK and the USA, where clockmaking has a long history. Antique clocks are a niche, and those who are passionate about it actively seek out detailed and well-researched content like my blog, which attracts dedicated collectors and enthusiasts from these countries.

A word about ads and monetization

Creating high-quality content, engaging with readers, and maintaining a blog requires significant time and effort. Monetization through ad content allows me to be compensated for my work, motivating me to continue producing valuable content for my audience.

Monetization provides me with a steady income stream, enabling me to cover the costs associated with running my blog, such as hosting fees, server space, domain registration, email, and content creation. This financial support allows me to reinvest in my blog, improve its quality, and expand my reach, leading to long-term sustainability and growth.

Translation Applet

To encourage a global audience, this blog features a convenient language translation applet on the front page, enabling visitors to explore its content in the language of their choice.

This user-friendly feature fosters a more inclusive and enjoyable experience for readers from diverse linguistic backgrounds.

Right to Repair: Countering our Throwaway Culture

Most mechanical clocks even those over a hundred years old or more are repairable. On rare occasions, a major part may be broken, but with the right tools and skills, it can still be fixed.

With a bit of knowledge and a few basic tools, the family clock could be repaired without needing to send it back to the manufacturer.

Time and strike clock movement

In today’s world, any mechanical device that lasts even a few years would be considered a rarity.

Screw drivers, clock tools
Common tools

It’s a fact that we live in a very different world today!

Some time ago, my wife and I had an issue with our dishwasher. Believing it was a simple fix, we called a service technician. It turned out that the main circuit board was shot. I suggested we replace it, but the technician advised that the repair cost would be several hundred dollars. However, he advised us for just a few more dollars, we could get a brand-new dishwasher. We were aghast!

Appliance makers have devised innovative tactics to make repairs costly and inconvenient, while simultaneously offering replacement programs at significantly reduced prices. Repairing items today is often impossible or more expensive than buying new ones, a frustrating and expensive dilemma for the consumer.

Moreover, in today’s throwaway society, repair is often not an option. “Honey, this is broken”; “Just throw it away, it can’t be fixed”. And we complain that our landfill sites are full!

Clock manufacturers years ago designed their clocks to be fixable and did not employ underhanded strategies to make them impossible to repair. I’m convinced that clock companies didn’t see these challenges as obstacles and instead chose to take the moral high ground. A clock that could be repaired with just a few tools was a true mark of a quality company.

The fact that fewer people are fixing their personal possessions today places an environmental and economic burden on our society. We need to shift our thinking, or we are all doomed.

The Right to Repair

Owners of products should have a right to repair them as a matter of “moral justice”. Wikipedia covers this topic extensively under the term “Right to Repair,” and the concept is gaining momentum.

It will take time to make the shift but in the meantime, the situation appears to be worsening rather than improving.

I recently read an article describing how manufacturers are designing digital locks into their products. For example, using a third-party ink cartridge can render your printer inoperable, and attempting to use a third-party battery in your new electric trimmer can result in a battery error.

The same article described a farmer who replaced a filter in his tractor. A company representative had to inspect the part to verify its authenticity and activate the software so that the tractor could operate, causing the farmer to lose productive use of the machinery for some time.

A certain phone manufacturer, who shall remain unnamed, refuses to allow third-party repairs or places strict limits on the type of repair. Such repairs void the warranty, it says. The alternative is a costly repair using genuine parts, a situation that not everyone can afford.

In reflecting on the current state of product repair, it’s clear that we’ve moved away from the principles of repairability that characterized earlier times. Historically, clock manufacturers designed their products with repair in mind, avoiding deliberate strategies to hinder fixes.

When a clock finally comes to the end of its life wouldn’t you want another Seth Thomas, Waterbury, or Ingraham?

Unfortunately, the landscape has shifted dramatically. My own experience with a dishwasher underscores this change. In today’s throwaway culture, the default response is often to discard broken items rather than seek repair.

This change not only devalues durable craftsmanship but also fuels a growing culture of waste. And that’s too bad.

How to Service an Open Mainspring Without a Spring Winder – Step-by-Step Guide

In a previous article on servicing this clock, I mentioned the challenge I faced with the mainspring. With only minimal tools at my disposal and no spring winder, I was determined to find a solution and successfully service the mainspring.

This clock was manufactured by New Haven and boasts a classic design with a twelve-inch Roman Numeral dial and a distinctive short drop style.

The softwood case is veneered in Rosewood veneer accents. The clock’s case must have been quite elegant at one time, but now it is showing much wear and tear.

Given the condition of the case, I anticipated that the movement would be just as well-worn. It was in better condition than I thought.

New Haven 8-day time-only movement

Let me point out that the servicing is being done under less-than-ideal conditions. I am at our summer cottage with only the basic tools for clock repair, so I must either improvise or skip certain procedures.

No spring winder | no problem

The movement had already been restrained with a heavy copper wire.

A heavy copper wire contains the mainspring

First, partially reassemble the movement with only the main wheel and second wheels. Reattach the front plate and secure the movement with the 4 pillar nuts.

Attaching the second wheel allows the main wheel to be stabilized while the spring is wound using the ratchet.

Safety first

I strongly recommend wearing leather work gloves and eye protection. Handling mainsprings under tension can be hazardous, so prioritizing safety is crucial. Precautions are essential to protect yourself from potential injuries.

Next steps

The key is to hold onto the second wheel while winding the clock. Once fully wound the copper restraining wire can be removed. In the photo below the screwdriver is arresting the wheel while I take the photo.

Then, using a letdown tool, release the click by popping out the click spring from the rachet and allowing the mainspring to unwind. The main wheel with the relaxed spring can now be safely removed from the movement.

The letdown tool is on the right

Servicing involves carefully removing the main wheel from the spring, manually inspecting and cleaning the spring, re-oiling it, and reconnecting it with the main wheel.

The mainspring is removed from the main wheel for cleaning

Reassembly

After cleaning the main wheel and the spring, simply reverse the procedure. Reattach the click spring, join the main wheel and the mainspring, place them back in the movement along with the second wheel, wind the spring, and secure it again with the copper restraining wire. Once this is done, you can continue to reassemble the movement.

May not be suitable for all applications

This approach allows the main wheel to be cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner along with all the other movement parts.

While this method may not be suitable for all open mainspring designs, it might be the solution for you.

Servicing a mainspring without a spring winder isn’t ideal, it can still be done safely and effectively.

Servicing this movement is reminiscent of days gone by when Dad (or Mom) would gather tools from the shed to fix the family clock. The repair might not have been perfect, but the goal was always to keep the clock running reliably until the next time it needed attention.

Challenges of DIY Antique Clock Repair with Minimal Tools | Lessons and Limitations

My collection of wall clocks includes several schoolhouse models and I am continually impressed by their resilience despite their age.

While many of these clocks spent their lives in school rooms, some ended up in commercial establishments and offices, often neglected until they stopped working. I’ve seen clocks with bushing holes so enlarged it’s a miracle they still ran at all.

This particular clock, manufactured by New Haven, boasts a classic design with a twelve-inch Roman Numeral dial and a distinctive short drop style.

The softwood case is veneered in Rosewood veneer accents. The clock’s case must have been quite elegant at one time, but now it is showing much wear and tear.

Given the condition of the case, I anticipated that the movement would be just as well-worn.

Let me point out that the servicing is being done under less-than-ideal conditions. I am at our summer cottage with only the basic tools for clock repair, so I must either improvise or skip certain procedures.

Removing the movement

After removing the hour and minute hands, you will find that three screws hold the dial in place. Once these screws are removed, the next step is to take out two movement blocks that secure the movement. This is done by unscrewing the blocks (each held by two wood screws) and then pulling out the movement. Once out the blocks can be removed.

The movement is held by movement blocks

Disassembly and inspection

The first step is to contain the power of the mainspring. Since I did not have access to my standard equipment, I had to improvise. I would normally use a C-clamp to restrain the mainspring, but with none available, I used a stiff piece of copper wire and wrapped it around the mainspring. Not ideal but it works.

Safely restrained mainspring

The movement is in surprisingly good condition.

The top (front) plate is removed

Once the wheels are out it is time to visually inspect the components including the gear teeth, pivots, escape wheel pallets, the condition of the manispring, and lantern pinions.

The parts are laid out for inspection

Before placing the parts into the ultrasonic cleaner, I clean the pivot holes with toothpicks and wipe off any excess dirt and oil. Since I plan to reuse the ultrasonic cleaner several times, putting excessively dirty parts into the cleaning solution can shorten its lifespan.

Opinions vary on whether mainsprings should be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. I believe it’s a matter of judgment. If I am not planning to reuse the cleaning solution (mainspring oil can render the solution unusable) and can thoroughly dry the springs, I have had good results by placing them in the ultrasonic cleaner.

In this situation, I have opted not to clean the mainspring in a solution.

Next is the reassembly of the movement leaving out the main wheel and mainspring. Without tension on the wheels, this is a simple way of determining wear.

Wheels that move laterally suggest enlarged pivot holes. Lateral movement affects the meshing of the gears and with enough wear the gears do not mesh properly and the clock will stop.

Checking for lateral movement

In this movement, the third-wheel front plate shows the most wear. However, it is not worn enough to require a new bushing at this time. If I were in the clock repair business and this was a customer’s clock, I would definitely address the need for a new bushing. This is compounded by the fact that I do not have bushing tools with me.

The pivots exhibit no significant wear, as confirmed by the fingernail test, which revealed no ridges. If you feel any ridges, grooves, or irregularities, it indicates wear on the pivot. A smooth pivot suggests minimal or no wear. Although I had to use a portable power drill for cleaning/polishing, the cleaning process was satisfactory despite it not being the ideal method.

My main challenge is the mainspring. I’m currently working with minimal tools and would like to service the mainspring, but I don’t have a spring winder.

Mainspring and first wheel

I am determined to service the mainspring and will find a solution within the next day or so, reporting on the procedures as I go. In the meantime, this is as far as I can proceed with this movement.

New Haven schoolhouse clock | The case is in poor condition but what about the movement?

Accepting the schoolhouse clock as a restoration project, I was prepared for the inevitable wear and tear it had endured over time. Despite its condition, I wondered what it would look like if the case was rejuvenated.

Decisions, decisions.

My collection of wall clocks includes several schoolhouse models and I am continually impressed by their resilience despite their age.

These clocks, renowned for their durability, keep time reliably, even in well-worn condition.

While many of these clocks spent their lives in school rooms, some ended up in commercial establishments and offices, often neglected until they stopped working. I’ve seen clocks with bushing holes so enlarged it’s a wonder they still ran.

This particular clock, manufactured by New Haven, boasts a classic design with a twelve-inch Roman Numeral dial and a distinctive short drop style. Its standout feature is the reverse painted glass on the access door, allowing the decorative pendulum bob to be seen in motion.

The softwood case is veneered in Rosewood veneer accents. The clock’s case must have been quite elegant at one time, but now it is showing much wear and tear.

Is it even worth fixing? However, let’s look at the movement.

The movement

I am impressed by the size and construction of the movement. The plate measures 5 inches tall and 3 inches wide, but it extends to 5 1/2 inches wide when including the main wheel and the third wheel. It is one of the larger time-only movements I have seen in an antique clock. Two wood blocks secure the movement to the case.

Movement in the case

It has been challenging to determine the date of manufacture of the movement, even though the trademark design should provide some clues. Despite searching through antique clock forums, the best match I found was an identical movement in a Cambria wall clock, which had no trademark but featured pins instead of nuts to hold the plates together.

Cambria wall clock

According to this site New Haven began using this trademark style in 1890.

New Haven trademark, 9 3/4 refers to the pendulum length

Although it looks clean, my plan is to take it apart and assess what needs to be done. Join me in my next article as I guide you through servicing the movement.

Optimizing Care for a Vintage Mauthe Clock: Inspection and Oiling

It’s time to inspect the movement on this mid-thirties German box clock. Purchased at an antique mall in Peterborough, Ontario, in May of 2017, it was serviced in 2020.

Mauthe time and strike box clock

This clock is part of a small collection at our family cottage and runs for about three months each year. However, the cottage environment can be harsh. Before we converted the screened-in porch to an enclosed sunroom, the clock was exposed to the elements for three years, so I expect some dust, dirt, and debris.

Mauthe movement back plate
Mauthe movement back-plate

One hint tells me this clock is made by Mauthe of Germany, even though there is no trademark stamp on the movement plates. The gong block is made by Divina, a subsidiary parts maker for Mauthe.

In the 1930s and 1940s, the clock was sold in Canada under the Forestville or Solar name in department stores from coast to coast. An appliqué of a maple leaf on the crown of the case suggests it was made for the Canadian market.

Divina gong block

Removing the movement

Removing the movement from its case is a relatively simple procedure. Open the front door and release the two thumbscrews under the movement seatboard, then slide the movement forward from its side channels.

Both plates are a robust 1.8 mm brass. The backplate is solid while the front plate is open. It is a robust movement that was evidently designed to last.

Removing the movement from the case is the best way to check the condition of the movement. Once out all you see is the back plate with the dial concealing the front of the movement. To inspect the front of the movement, the dial and hands must be removed. The hands come off easily by pulling the center cannon pin that attaches the minute hand. The hour hand is a friction fit and can be pulled out with minimal effort. Remove four brass pins on pillars to detach the face from the movement.

Once the dial face is detached both the front and back of the movement can be inspected.

Movement with attached seatboard

There is also no need to remove the seatboard to inspect the movement.

Of course, the only true measure of the condition of any movement is to take it apart, but in this case, I saw no need.

The clock has been working well, keeping good time and striking as it should.

What to look for

I always look for dirty oil around the pivots, which indicates possible wear. As oil ages, it gradually interacts with worn brass, creating a black abrasive paste. Here the pivots looked good but I did notice that some bearings had dried up. While at it I inspected the barrels for bulges and cracks, finding none. The lantern pinions, gear teeth, and levers looked clean. The suspension spring also looked good. In fact, I saw nothing that would cause me to take the next step: disassembly.

The movement is in excellent condition and will need no attention since its last servicing in 2020.

Oiling

All that is required is an oiling before it is returned to the case. Periodic inspections ensure that the oil is clean and appropriately applied, preventing friction and wear. In this case, the oil was clean but some pivots required additional oil.

Oil and applicator which has a spooned end

I keep it simple as far as my oiler and dipper container are concerned.

Periodic inspections

Periodically inspecting a mechanical clock movement is important. Regular inspections can identify potential issues before they become serious problems, helping to prevent major repairs or damage.

Over time, the movement parts can wear down, and identifying and addressing wear ensures the clock runs smoothly.

Dust, dirt, and other debris can accumulate in the movement, affecting performance. Regular inspections {and disassembly and cleaning if needed} can keep the clock running accurately.

Clocks exposed to varying environmental conditions, such as humidity or temperature changes at our cottage, may require more frequent inspections to prevent damage. My fears that this movement was dirty because it was in a harsh environment proved unfounded.

Mauthe movement front plate
Mauthe movement front plate

If the clock starts losing or gaining time, an inspection can identify the cause and allow for adjustments. Inspecting the movement helps to ensure that all components, such as springs and gears, are in good condition and properly aligned.

Finally, by addressing these aspects through regular inspections, you can extend the life of your mechanical clock and ensure it continues to function properly.

Proper Clock Lubrication: Essential Tips and Techniques

Like a car engine, oil is the lifeblood of a clock, and correct lubrication is essential for ensuring a long life for the timepiece. Lubrication is crucial for the efficient operation of any mechanical clock movement.

A dirty movement about to be disassembled

However, it’s important to note that oiling a movement without first disassembling and cleaning it is not usually recommended.

If the movement has been serviced within the past two years, there is no black oil present around the pivots and the pivot holes are merely dry, oiling without disassembly is acceptable. Otherwise, if the clock has not been serviced in several years, adding new lubricant to old oil can mix with dirt and grime, forming a grinding paste that acts as an abrasive, and will accelerate wear on the pivots and pivot holes.

Using a spray lubricant is a no-no

Never use a lubricant spray like WD-40 on a mechanical clock. WD-40 is a water dispersant and displacement agent, not a suitable lubricant for clocks. In fact, you should avoid spraying any type of lubricant on your mechanical clock, as some parts, such as wheel teeth and levers/springs, must remain dry. Instead, use a lubricant specifically designed for clocks, such as Keystone clock oil.

Clock pivot oil
Clock pivot oil

As an alternative to clock-designed lubricant, some clockmakers have had good success with synthetic oil similar to the type used in car engines.

The application of clock oil

When applying oil, use a small amount—about the size of a pinhead—for each lubrication point. You can apply the oil with a toothpick, a small wire, a needle dipper designed for clock oiling, or a clock oiler. Avoid over-oiling, as excess oil can attract dust and dirt which will bind with the oil to create a paste, and increase wear.

I have never had much success with a hypodermic-style oiler but your mileage may vary.

clock oiler
clock oiler

While they are handy at first, the plastic vial or chamber eventually cracks with repeated use and renders the oiler useless.

pin or cup oiler and dipper
Clock movement oiler and dipper

Instead, I use a simple cup-type oiler and dipper.

What to lubricate

Be sure to oil the pivots of all wheels, the crutch loop where it touches the pendulum rod, the escapement pallets, the clicks, and the mainspring arbours. For weight-driven clocks, remember to oil the pulley axles as well. While servicing a spring-driven clock, also oil the mainsprings with a special mainspring oil. keystone makes an oil specifically designed for all mainsprings.

Drizzle the oil along the side of the coiled spring, allowing it to wick between the coils, and wipe away any excess.

Avoid dipping an applicator directly from the oil bottle to avoid contamination; instead, pour a small amount into an oil cup for application.

In sum
By following these guidelines, you can ensure that your mechanical clock remains in excellent condition and continues to run smoothly for years to come.

Proper lubrication not only enhances the performance of your clock but also extends its lifespan by preventing unnecessary wear and tear. Use the right type of oil and applicator, avoid over-oiling, and never use inappropriate lubricants. With regular maintenance and careful attention to lubrication, your clock will keep perfect time and remain a cherished piece for generations.

How to Safely Operate and Maintain Mechanical Clocks: Tips and Hazards

Mechanical clocks, especially older or larger ones, can pose various dangers during operation and maintenance. In this post, we will cover some of the risks and hazards.

Mainsprings

Do not underestimate the power of a clock with mainsprings. Mechanical clocks often use powerful mainsprings to drive their mechanisms. If these components are mishandled, they can release a significant amount of stored energy suddenly (potential energy), with the risk of causing serious injury.

Mainsprings restrained with “C” clamps

Without the right knowledge and tools, attempting to disassemble or reassemble a mechanical clock can result in damage to the clock and potential injury. When working on a clock and particularly when disassembling clock movements ensure that the mainsprings are safely secured. The best way is to use a specially designed mainspring clamp.

“C” clamps or a strong wire are considered safe methods in clock repair.

Even the simple act of winding a clock can produce a nasty surprise since the sudden release of tension in a mainspring can be dangerous.

I almost lost my thumb when the click let go on the strike side of a Mauthe wall clock while winding it.

Damaged thumbnail but I survived

If I am unsure of the mechanical condition of a clock particularly one that I have recently acquired, I always wind it with my letdown key set. That way I can control it if the click lets go. If I follow that simple rule I don’t get hurt.

A letdown set used to safely wind a newly acquired clock

Gears and sharp components

The gears, escapements, and other moving parts can cause pinching injuries. These parts may also be sharp or have pointed edges, increasing the risk of cuts.

The delicate nature of some clock components, such as thin gears or escapement wheels, can break easily. Working on them without proper knowledge or tools can damage the clock and possible injury from sharp, broken pieces may result.

Mercury

Some antique clocks may contain materials known to be hazardous, such as mercury in pendulums or lead-based solder. Exposure to these materials can pose health risks. For example, most American-made crystal regulator clocks have nickel slugs in glass vials for the pendulum that resembles mercury at first glance. They are completely safe to handle.

Note the pendulum bob in this clock

In contrast, French-made four-glass clocks often contain actual mercury pendulums, which if handled can pose a poisoning risk. The purpose of mercury is to maintain accurate timekeeping despite temperature variations.

The degree of mercury toxicity depends on how much contact one has with it. Here is an excellent article I found on the risks involved and precautions when handling mercury.

Electric clocks

Early electric clocks can pose a significant risk of electric shock if not properly handled or if the wiring is faulty. These clocks are often improperly grounded, and may have worn cords with exposed wire. Those that run hot to the touch when operating are particularly dangerous. Switches and knobs and other components are designed according to past standards and lack the safety protocols of today’s designs.

The danger of electric shock may increase during maintenance or operation.

Sessions 3W electric table clock
Sessions 3W electric table clock C.1930

Electric clocks are best handled by individuals knowledgeable about electrical components and their operation.

Radium

Clocks, especially older alarm clocks with luminous dials can pose a significant risk. The culprit is radium. Even a clock that has lost its luminescence may still have traces of radium on its dial or particulate matter that has fallen from the clock-face making them equally dangerous.

As much as you may be curious about how these clocks work, leave them alone and appreciate them as decorations or alternatively, safely dispose of them.

Baby Ben, made in China
Baby Ben, made in China (a later design with safe luminous material)

It must be emphasized that Inhalation or ingestion of flakes or dust containing radioactive materials is extremely dangerous.

Clock tools and equipment

When working on clock springs or components when there is a potential risk of injury or with tools like a lathe, consider wearing leather gloves, and an apron, along with face/eye protection as needed.

Gloves and safety goggles are an important consideration when working with mainsprings. A winding arbor breaking in a mainspring winder or a mainspring letting go while winding it up might result in the spring, wheel, and arbor flying around the room and possibly toward the repair person.

Thick leather gloves used for spring maintenance

Using a Dremel machine without proper eye protection, especially with wire brushes that rotate at high speeds, can easily lead to serious eye injuries if a piece of wire breaks off.

In sum

To mitigate all risks, it is important to have a good understanding of the clock’s mechanism, use appropriate tools, follow safety procedures, and possibly seek training or assistance from an experienced clockmaker. If you ignore common sense, accidents are sure to follow.

A dirty clock movement ready to be serviced


Those new to clock repair may be eager to dive in and take things apart. However, a slow and cautious approach with a focus on safety will reap benefits in the long term.

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Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks

Collecting, Repairing and Restoring Antique/Vintage Clocks

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