In Part I of this series, I shared my approach to restoring a clock dial through a process called inpainting. Inpainting is but one solution to the problem of a ruined dial. To restore a clock dial by bringing it back to its original state involves carefully mixing paint to match the original tones, gradually building up layers to cover exposed metal, and remedying prior modifications that detracted from the dial’s appearance. I also highlighted the challenges of repainting, emphasizing the precision and patience required. Part I concluded with the groundwork laid for further work on the dial.
The clock is an Arthur Pequegnat Jewel, manufactured before 1917. The exact year of manufacture is uncertain, as Pequegnat did not date stamp their clocks. The approximate period of manufacture is confirmed by the maker’s stamp, which includes “Berlin,” the original name of what is now Kitchener. The city’s name was changed in 1917 due to sentiments arising from the Great War. So, the clock was made somewhere between 1904, the first year of production for Pequegnat clocks, and 1916.
Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe
This model shares the exact case dimensions as the Simcoe but lacks certain decorative elements, making it one of the more affordable mantel clocks in their range.
The clock case features a piecrust dial bezel like the Simcoe, which was later replaced by a plain bezel in later years.
Pequegnat Jewel as found
In terms of the dial restoration, Part II will build on the inpainting progress by applying additional coats, enhancing details like the numerals and chapter ring, and bringing the dial closer to its original elegance.
More Work Required on the Dial
After the second coat, the bare metal is still visible, indicating that at least one or two more coats will be necessary.
I decided to continue a shade darker for the next layer by adding a touch more brown, and after more thought, darker still for the next coat or two. Even at this stage, I’m beginning to notice a pleasant transformation in the dial, shifting from its stark metallic appearance to a more pleasing shade of cream.
For the third coat, I aimed to soften the yellow and achieve a more aged look. It’s rough at the moment, but I’m confident it will come together once I start applying black paint to the numerals. The good news is that the bare metal is no longer visible.
The dial is done, now for the numerals
When placed against the case, the repainted dial is an improvement, but it’s clear that I’ll never fully replicate the original dial, even with my try at aging it.
The fourth coat has fully concealed the tin beneath, so, I’ll stop here. Next, I will focus on the numerals, using an artist’s detail brush and a Sharpie Ultra fine-point pen to carefully restore them.
Bezeltest fit
Since the stripping process compromised the original numbers, I’ll use my Simcoe as a reference to reshape and refine their appearance. I’ll allow the paint to cure fully before moving on to the next step.
After cleaning the bezel, I noticed a distinct difference between the glass surround and the dial bezel. The glass surround has a brassy gold appearance, while the dial bezel exhibits a bronze-like tone. Although brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, with variations in composition potentially explaining this difference, I suspect that’s not the case here. Instead, I believe the glass surround was painted gold, as small flakes of paint came off while I was cleaning it with a toothpick. The bottom line? Best to leave it as is. Or match the outer bezel to the inner one? I’d have to think about that.
Here is the final result after a few touch-ups with black paint and some light polishing of the glass and both bezels.
Is it an improvement?
While it does not hold up to close scrutiny, there’s no denying it looks much better when viewed from a comfortable distance.
With the dial restored and the case cleaned, the final step will be servicing the time and strike movement to bring the clock to its full potential. While the improvement comes with its compromises, it’s satisfying to see the progress so far, and I’m eager to have this clock run smoothly after servicing.
As we welcome the New Year, antique clocks serve as quiet reminders of the passage of time, marking the shift from one chapter of our lives to the next.
Imagine a room with an antique clock, its steady ticking signaling the start of something new. These old clocks remind us that every moment is precious, especially as we say goodbye to the past year and look ahead to the future.
On New Year’s Eve, the ticking of the clock becomes a backdrop for reflecting on the highs and lows of the year gone by. Each tick seems to echo the shared experiences we’ve all had. As we step into the new year, let’s take the lessons we’ve learned and carry them forward, embracing the growth and opportunities that lie ahead in the new year.
The author
Amid the celebrations, let the ticking of antique clocks remind us of the new possibilities waiting for us. I wish you a Happy New Year filled with hope, joy, and time well spent with those you care about.
I also want to take a moment to thank you for supporting my blog. Your support keeps me motivated to push on with more clock articles, and I’m looking forward to creating more content for you in the coming year.
As the holiday season is upon us, I’ve decided to take a break from writing and updating my blog to enjoy some much-needed downtime.
The past year has been filled with exciting clock-related adventures, research, and restoration projects, and now it’s time to step back, recharge, and spend time with loved ones. I look forward to returning in the New Year, refreshed and ready to continue sharing my passion for antique clocks, repairs, and restoration.
Upcoming articles in 2025 include:
Pequegnat Jewel Dial Restoration | A Case For Inpainting | Part II
What is My Clock Worth? (Revision of a past blog article)
Reflections on a Year of Clock Collecting and Repair (top purchases in 2024)
On My Workbench | Type 89 Movement by Seth Thomas and a Strike Side Issue
Essential Tips for Clock Case Care
When Clocks Had One Hand
Troubleshooting A Strike Issue on a HAC/HAU Movement
Restoring a Vintage Mauthe Box Clock | Evoking Family Memories | Part I
I’m always on the lookout for fresh content, so if you have any clock-related topics you’d like me to explore, please feel free to share your thoughts and ideas!
Wishing everyone a wonderful holiday season, and I’ll see you again soon in 2025!
Wishing you all health and happiness this Christmas season!
Every year, my kids stress over what to get me for Christmas. They know I’m passionate about antique clocks and spend my time restoring and repairing them. “Is there anything he needs?” they ask their mum.
Holiday in Lego Land
Honestly, it’s the little things I really appreciate in my Christmas stocking. Kids, if you want to surprise me, just throw in a new pair of cloth gloves, a box of toothpicks, some cotton swabs, or a paintbrush, oh, and some solder (I did run out of that!) – that’s all I really need to know you’re thinking of me.
Christmas at home
Christmas is about joy, not about extravagant gifts unless they come with love and appreciation for those we care about. So, if you’re trying to find the perfect gift for the clock lover in your family, remember – it’s the simple things that count.
I hope this wonderful time of the year touches your heart and brings joy to you and your loved ones in a special way. And if there’s a clock under the tree, consider it a timely gift (get it!), reminding you of fond memories and family gatherings filled with love, laughter, and delicious food.
Hmm, wait a minute, about that extravagant gift…..ah, just kidding!
Thanks for all your letters! I may take a little longer to reply this time of year, but I appreciate each and every one.
As I continue to build my Pequegnat clock collection, I always seize a good deal when I find one, and the Jewel was too good to pass up. You might be wondering, what exactly is a Pequegnat clock and where does the Jewel fit into their model lineup?
A Pequegnat clock refers to clocks produced by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company, a renowned Canadian manufacturer active from 1904 to 1941 in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada. These clocks are celebrated for their quality craftsmanship and distinct place in Canadian horological history. Pequegnat clocks were a common feature in many Canadian homes.
I now have twelve Pequegnat clocks in my collection, consisting of several mantel clocks and three wall clocks.
Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe
In 2018, I purchased a Pequegnat Simcoe clock from a shop in Victoria, British Columbia, for nearly $200—a price I found fair at the time. More recently, I came across the Jewel model in an antique shop just 20 minutes from home. Though it was perched on a high shelf, I recognized it instantly. Given its significantly lower price, I couldn’t resist adding it to my collection.
An excellent price for a Pequegnat mantel clock
The case dimensions of both are exactly the same and each has the earlier Berlin-style piecrust dial.
Pequegnat Jewel
Three features differentiate the Jewel from the Simcoe. First, the Jewel was a less expensive clock. It is likely one of the least expensive mantel clocks in the Pequegnat mantel clock lineup, offering a more affordable option for many Canadian families.
Secondly, the Jewel lacks the lion’s head side handles and decorative feet found on the Simcoe.
Third, although the movement is identical to the Simcoe, the Jewel has a smaller gong block. A smaller gong block would still produce sound, but with a less resonant tone, which was considered an acceptable tradeoff for keeping production costs lower.
Condition of the dial
Unfortunately, the dial on the Jewel has been completely stripped of its paint. I’m willing to accept a dial with some imperfections—after all, the paint on the Simcoe’s dial is flaking, but that’s part of its aging process and what gives it its antique character.
A ruined dial
However, a dial completely stripped of its paint, aside from the chapter ring and numerals, is unsightly and distracting. I completely understand why this was done. More expensive Pequegnat clocks featured enamel dials, while the more common models had painted dials, which are prone to flaking after many years and this clock must have had extensive paint loss.
While some might have left the dial as it was, viewing it as part of the clock’s history, the extent of the modification made it impossible for me to leave it as is. The fact that the clock only cost me $45 also made me more willing to take the risk to remediate the dial.
Repainting a dial is usually a last resort for me, and I wouldn’t recommend it unless you have steady hands, plenty of patience, the necessary materials, or the option to outsource the work to an artist friend or an expert. Outsourcing might be a good choice, particularly for dials with sentimental value, as it ensures the work is handled with precision and care by an expert. Preserving the integrity and charm of a cherished clock often warrants entrusting the work to skilled hands such as The Dial House.
Some time ago, I restored the dial on a Seth Thomas clock using a technique called inpainting, and I was very pleased with the results. I also touched up the dial to a Pequegnat Canuck shelf clock with very satisfactory results.
A decision was made
As I considered my options, I decided that if the inpainting did not turn out as planned, I could always order a paper dial from an eBay supplier and place it over the original.
The paint was painstakingly scraped away, but the result was far from pleasing
However, the cost of the dial alone would exceed what I paid for the clock. Besides, I’m not particularly fond of paper dials.
I know that once I’m done with the dial, my artistic “talent” will be apparent upon close inspection. However, I’m confident it will be an improvement over its current state.
To carry out this procedure, the hands, dial/bezel must be removed. There are just two screws at 3 and 9 o’clock that hold the dial assembly in place. Once the assembly is removed, the glass and its bezel can be separated from the dial and set aside.
Once the dial was removed, I cleaned the stripped surface with isopropyl alcohol. It evaporates quickly and leaves no residue, and since the dial had no remaining paint aside from the chapter ring and numerals, I wasn’t concerned about damaging the finish and simply worked around the painted areas.
A small dab of yellow is enough
The dial was likely originally white but had aged to a darker cream color over time. To recreate this, I mixed a touch of canary yellow with cotton ball white to achieve the perfect shade. I used both a broad artist’s brush and a fine-point detail brush to apply the first coat. Multiple coats are necessary, but the first coat needs to be cured before adding another.
I’m using water-based acrylic paint, which is self-sealing and becomes permanent when baked at low heat however, this dial will not be spending time in an oven. Once another coat or two is applied I can use a pointed tip detail brush to reshape the numerals using black paint.
The first coat is acceptable, though a bit blotchy due to the uneven spread of paint across the dial. The tin was very visible, so I knew that more than one coat would be necessary.
I mixed the yellow and white paint the same way for the second coat, this time adding a touch of chocolate brown.
However, the bare metal is still visible, indicating that at least one or possibly two more coats will be needed. I’m considering going a shade darker for the next layer by adding a touch more brown, but I’ll take some time to think it over before deciding. I’m starting to notice a lovely transformation in the dial, shifting from its stark tin appearance to a more pleasing shade of cream.
That wraps up Part I of this two-part series. In Part II, coming in the new year, I’ll continue the restoration process by applying additional coats to the dials and refining the numerals and chapter ring. Stay tuned!
When discussing American clocks, the name Elisha Manross might not come to mind as readily as prominent makers like Seth Thomas, New Haven, or Waterbury. However, Elisha Manross (1792–1856) played a pivotal role as a pioneer in the development of Connecticut clockmaking.
In 1812, at the age of 20, Elisha Manross, along with John Cowls, opened a shop in Bristol, Connecticut. Initially focused on woodturning, Manross did not set out to be a clockmaker. In 1825, he began making clock parts for other clockmakers. By 1835, Bristol was home to over a dozen clock factories producing woodworks clocks, and that year, Manross started producing clocks of his own. The 1837 depression marked the decline of wooden movement clocks and the rise of brass movements, particularly those invented and produced by Jerome1.
In the early years of clock production, materials were limited, and brass was commonly used for most components.
Brass mainsprings are exceptionally rare, and a clockmaker could easily go their entire career without encountering one. This is because brass mainsprings were only used for a brief period in American clockmaking history. Although carbon steel springs were used in Europe as early as the 1760s this technology was not used in America until the late 1840s.
From 1836 to 1850, brass was relatively inexpensive and readily available as a mainspring material due to the high cost of steel at the time. Brass is certainly not the best material to use as a mainspring since it is not as strong as steel and it loses its elasticity over time.
Tempered brass mainspring, American Clock and Watch Museum, Bristol Connecticut, June 2019
In 1847, the tempered steel mainspring, designed for everyday clocks, was introduced. This innovation quickly rendered brass mainsprings obsolete, relegating them to a niche chapter in horological history.
It is common for 30-hour time-and-strike Gothic steeple clocks, like this one by Elisha Manross, to feature steel mainsprings. Why? Because the original brass mainsprings broke and were replaced. The fact that this clock retains its original brass mainsprings in excellent condition suggests that it has led a relatively gentle life despite evidence of other repairs made to the movement over the years.
Elisha Manross 30 hour movement, as found
While some might consider replacing the brass with steel mainsprings, my priority was to maintain the originals. These brass mainsprings represent a significant chapter in the history of American clockmaking and deserve to remain in the movement where they belong.
Transporting antique clocks requires meticulous care due to their delicate mechanisms and fragile components, including glass panels and chime or strike rods. Whether you’re moving a clock across the house, across town, or shipping it across the country, proper packing and handling are essential to avoid damage.
However, this guide focuses on the steps needed to safely relocate your antique clock from one room to another.
Although we are only moving a tall case clock, often referred to as a grandfather clock, a few meters to another room in our house, it’s important to follow several key steps to prevent damaging the clock.
A tall case clock poses the greatest challenge to relocate
The Clock
This Ridgeway tall case clock was made in the mid-1990s by the Pulaski Furniture Company, which is still in operation today as part of HF Hooker Furnishings in Virginia, USA. We acquired the clock in 2013 from a collector in Halifax, Nova Scotia.
The closest match to its model name appears to be “Hamilton Country.” The Ridgeway line was eventually absorbed by the Howard Miller group about 20 years ago. New Ridgeway clocks feature Howard Miller-owned Keininger movements but in the 1980s and 90s, Hermle movements were typically found in Ridgeway grandfather clocks. This Hermle 451-033 movement in this clock has Westminster chimes and a midnight blue moon phase dial.
The clock is being moved to create more space between our main entryway and dining room. It is much better suited for display in our living room, which recently had its carpet replaced with hardwood.
Although one person can move the clock it is best left to two people.
Supplies
Before you begin, collect the necessary materials to ensure a safe process. This is a simple move so, other than a method of moving it to the new room the only supplies you will need are cotton gloves, twist ties, and padding (Styrofoam/sponge) for the chime rods. A moving dolly is optional, as the clock case is surprisingly light once the weights are removed from the case.
Remove Weights and Pendulum
Antique clocks often have fragile or loose parts that can potentially be damaged. Safely removing these components before moving is the key.
Since this is a weight-driven clock, I first remove the weights, label them left, right, centre, and place them away from the clock in a safe location. Check the underside of the weights as they might have a small sticker with a letter indicating their location. “L” for left, and so on. Mine are already labeled.
Next, carefully remove the pendulum and place it in a safe area. I use cotton gloves to protect against tarnishing the brass components. In this case, the pendulum is hooked onto a leader. To access the leader a side vent is removed so that you can observe the leader coming off the hook and the pendulum is then lifted out of the case.
The glass is often the most vulnerable component and can be challenging to protect completely. Simply be mindful of the glass when moving the clock a short distance.
Secure the Chainsand Chime Rods
My Ridgeway clock features pull-up weights. After removing and setting the weights aside, it’s essential to secure the chains. Use a twist tie to secure each chain, preventing them from becoming unhooked or tangled.
The clock’s delicate movement is securely anchored on the seat board and protection is not needed since the clock is moved only a short distance.
Chime rods produce a wonderful sound but are brittle, and even slight movement can cause them to collide and potentially break. If your clock has chime rods, they can be protected with Styrofoam blocks or pieces cut from a sponge placed between the rods.
If your clock is cable-wound, I recommend running the cables fully onto their respective drums. Before removing the weights, tie a string around each weight hook, run the string, and secure it tautly to a hook at the bottom of the case (most tall case clocks have a transport hook on the inside bottom of the case). By carefully securing and protecting the cables, you can help ensure they remain tangle-free and in good condition during the move.
Flooring Type
Since this clock was being moved to a new location which also had a hardwood floor I was not concerned about flooring issues. Hardwood flooring eliminates concerns about potential issues like uneven surfaces, leveling difficulties or thick carpeting, which could affect the clock’s stability or leveling once it is relocated. To reiterate, tall case clocks should not be placed on carpeted flooring.
Moving the Clock to a New Location
We used a dolly to move the clock most of the way but when it could not fit under a doorway we carried it the last meter.
Leveling
Don’t assume the floor in the new room is level, so be prepared to make some adjustments. The final step before re-attaching the pendulum and weights is leveling the clock. On modern tall case clocks, there are adjustment screws at each corner that turn clockwise to raise the clock and counterclockwise to lower it. Adjust both axes as needed until the clock is level.
In its new location
Once the weights are reattached and the pendulum is returned to the case, verify that the clock is running properly.
Proper handling and preparation are crucial to prevent unnecessary damage to tall case clocks, even when moving them just a few meters.
NOTE: Please refer to this article if you are transporting your clock from one location (across a city for example) to another.
Clock repair and restoration can be a rewarding yet delicate process, requiring both skill and patience. Whether you’re working on an antique clock or a vintage movement, there are several common pitfalls that can easily derail your progress if you’re not careful. From handling mainsprings to ensuring proper oiling, small mistakes can lead to bigger issues down the road.
In this article, we’ll explore some of the most frequent mistakes made during clock repair and share tips on how to avoid them, ensuring your repairs are both successful and long-lasting.
Mainsprings
When working with mainsprings, always be cautious about how they are stored and handled. If two mainsprings are placed on top of each other, they may mate together in a way that makes it nearly impossible to separate them without damaging the springs. To avoid this, always position them so that they wind in opposite directions. This ensures they cannot interlock and will be easy to handle separately when the time comes.
Orientation of the Count Wheel
The count wheel plays a critical role in regulating the striking sequence of a clock. Different movements may have count wheels that rotate in opposite directions, so it’s essential to remember or note the orientation of the count wheel when removing it. If you fail to mark or track which way it goes, you may end up installing it incorrectly, which can result in malfunctioning strikes. Always take care to note the direction of rotation when removing any component like this.
Helper Springs
Helper Springs may look like an add-on but are part of the original manufacturing process. Novices are tempted to leave them out when servicing a clock reasoning that they were added later during a repair.
Helper springs are vital for the correct functioning of certain levers and gears in a clock’s movement. If these springs are not properly attached, the levers may fail to operate as they should, and the springs can even interfere with other components, preventing them from working as intended. Make note of the orientation of the helper springs during disassembly and always check that all helper springs are in place and attached securely before reassembling the movement.
Take Special Care with Pivots
Patience is key when working on clock movements. If pivots are difficult to fit or the plates don’t seem to align correctly, it’s tempting to apply more force. However, applying too much pressure can bend or damage the pivots, which may be difficult to fix without professional tools or techniques. Instead of forcing components, carefully assess the situation, ensure everything is aligned, and use minimal force to avoid damaging the pivots.
An especially designed pivot locator can be your best friend.
Pivot locator
Think twice before concluding a part is defective
It’s easy to jump to conclusions when diagnosing problems with a clock movement. You might assume that a part is defective or not functioning properly, but this is often not the case. Before replacing any parts, make sure you have thoroughly inspected the movement and confirmed that the part is indeed damaged or worn. Assumptions can lead to unnecessary replacements, costing both time and money. Always verify before proceeding.
Taking photos is a best practice
Taking pictures during disassembly is a common practice, but there’s a risk in doing this too early. If you take pictures before thoroughly understanding how the clock is put together, the images can become a source of confusion later on. You may forget specific orientations, parts, or connections, leading to problems when reassembling the movement. Instead, take the time to carefully observe and document each part’s position as you disassemble the clock. This will help ensure a smoother reassembly process.
Stop and Think Before Cleaning a Dial
Many a dial has been ruined by a repairer’s eagerness to clean it. If the dial needs cleaning, consider using a gentle hand-cleaning method (soap, water and a soft cloth will do) to avoid any damage like the damage to a UM Muller clock dial below.
Dials, especially antique ones, are delicate and can easily be damaged by the high-frequency vibrations in an ultrasonic cleaner. The cleaner may strip paint, damage decals, or even warp the dial if it’s not carefully handled. Always remove the dial before placing any components in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Proceed in a Safe Manner
When disassembling a clock movement, always ensure the mainsprings are securely restrained before you separate the plates.
Clamps for mainsprings ensure safety when working on movements
If the plates are removed without securing the mainsprings, they could unwind suddenly, potentially causing damage or injury. Use a mainspring winder, clamps, or similar tools to restrain the springs before beginning the disassembly process to avoid any accidents.
When using a spring winder, it’s important to wear thick leather gloves and eye protection to safeguard yourself from potential surprises if a spring fails. These precautions help minimize the risk of injury from sudden, high-pressure releases.
Resist the urge to bend things
During repairs, it’s easy to inadvertently bend parts while trying to make them fit or forcing them into place. Parts of the striking mechanism, especially on the striking levers, are particularly prone to bending. Once bent, they can be difficult to straighten and may not work correctly afterward. Always handle parts with care, and if something does not fit easily, take the time to inspect the alignment or find the correct adjustment method rather than forcing it into place.
Over-oiling is Never a Good Idea
As a person I knew once said; “if a little is good, a lot is better”. It’s tempting to apply generous amounts of oil when servicing a clock, but over-oiling can lead to a number of issues.
Excess oil can attract dust and dirt, which will gunk up the movement and cause it to run less smoothly. It can also seep into areas where it shouldn’t be, like on the dial or outside of the movement, leaving unsightly stains. Always use an approved clock oil sparingly, and only in the areas where it’s needed. A little goes a long way, and it’s better to apply no more oil than necessary rather than risk over-oiling the movement.
To Summarize
Clock repair requires not only skill but also a cautious approach to avoid common mistakes that can lead to damage or injury. By taking the necessary precautions—such as properly handling mainsprings, ensuring parts are correctly installed, and using minimal force—you can prevent costly errors and ensure a successful repair. Patience and attention to detail, will make all the difference in restoring a clock to its full functionality, allowing it to run smoothly for years to come.
Suggestions and tips for novices? Join the conversation.
For years, my Seth Thomas column and cornice clock rested atop an antique radio in our living room. However, after redecorating the space with hardwood flooring in place of the carpet, the radio and clock no longer suited the updated space.
Seth Thomas column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike weight driven shelf clock
I did not want to relegate the clock to storage, so I opted to find it a new spot in our home. Since most of the other rooms already had plenty of clocks, I decided to display it in my office.
This lovely Seth Thomas time and strike eight-day weight-driven column and cornice clock with hour strike features an attractive veneer case with cove molded crest, lyre movement, three-quarter columns in painted gold, and two glass doors, one with a reverse painted design, opening to the interior clock works which reveal a tin painted dial and the original printed and illustrated Seth Thomas clock makers label. It is 32″ tall, 18″ wide and 5“ deep.
The dial had some losses
The clock has one unique detail: while the lower tablet is original, the upper tablet was recreated from a photograph of hanging fruit, modified to complement the design below. Additionally, the dial, which had suffered some losses in the corners and chapter ring, was repainted.
The painted tin Roman Numeral dial has hand-decorated flower spandrels in all four corners with the centre portion of the brass lyre movement visible through the dial.
Among collectors an appropriate descriptor for this clock is “column and cornice” but it is also generally classified as a shelf clock. This particular clock features a hook on the top of its case, likely intended by a past owner for installation that way. While I have seen similar clocks mounted like this online, they were never originally designed to be hung.
However, the hook might serve an additional purpose. Given that these clocks can become top-heavy when fully wound, the hook could be an effective way to secure the clock to a wall, especially in areas where it might be easily bumped.
Building the Shelf
The first step was to build a shelf to accommodate the clock. I had some leftover 8-inch-deep pine boards from a previous project, which were ideal for this purpose. I purchased extra pine braces some time ago, and they turned out to be perfect for completing the project. I cut a piece about 22 inches long and painted it a shade of beige. The base of the clock is 18 inches leaving 2 inches on either side.
Pine board and braces
The next step was to mount the braces to the wall. Knowing the room had studs spaced 16 inches apart, I used a stud finder to locate the first stud and then measured 16 inches to find the second one.
Sixteen inches on centre
Once the braces were mounted and made level I installed the shelf using wood screws.
The clock is positioned on the shelf
Checking for the Correct Beat
Now to determine if the shelf is level and the clock is in beat. Using a Timetrax Clock Timing Machine I switched to the BAL feature to check the beat.
Timetrax microphone attached to the winding arbour
A beat adjustment was unnecessary as the clock was already leveled. If leveling were needed, it would simply involve slightly bending the crutch incrementally to find the beat. While checking the beat can easily be done by ear, it made sense to use my Timetrax device for greater precision.
Timetrax Clock Timing Machine
According to the Timetrax instruction manual If the beat is within plus or minus 20 the clock is in beat. In this case, it was almost dead on.
Seth Thomas clock mounted on a shelf (note repainted dial)
Once the beat is confirmed, the weights are replaced, the hands and dial can be reattached, and the pendulum is given a slight push.
After confirming the beat the clock was ready to be displayed in its new spot. This Seth Thomas column and cornice clock, with its exquisite veneer case and distinctive features, now takes pride of place in my office, where it brings an added touch of elegance to the room. Moreover, since the room houses many spring-driven clocks, a weight-driven clock will provide a more accurate reference for timekeeping.
I’m pleased to have found a new location for it, as it truly deserves to be on display.
As a clock repairer, there are several compelling reasons to keep the original mainsprings if they are still in good condition.
Keeping the original mainsprings ensures that the clock remains as close to its original condition as possible. Collectors and enthusiasts often value clocks with original parts, as they maintain the authenticity and historical significance of the clock.
Older brass mainsprings are not replaceable
Many older mainsprings were made with higher-quality steel and manufacturing techniques and modern replacements may not be of the same quality. Original springs, if well-preserved, may outperform modern equivalents in terms of durability and performance.
Consider the original design of the movement and how it is powered. The original mainspring is designed specifically for the clock’s movement, ensuring the proper balance of power delivery and running time. Replacements, even when sized correctly, may not deliver power consistently due to slight variations in material and design.
Modern mainsprings can sometimes deliver too much power, especially in delicate or vintage movements, leading to accelerated wear or damage to gears and pivots. Original springs are often “seasoned,” meaning they’ve been conditioned by years of use and may be gentler on the movement. Even replacements that have the same dimensions as the original are overpowered. Recommended replacement springs might overload the movement and lead to wear issues sooner rather than later.
Laurie Penman, who authors a regular feature in Clocks Magazine, stresses the importance of considering replacement springs in the September 2024 issue, stating “it bears repeating that if you fit a spring that approximates to the original nineteenth century the movement will be overloaded”.1
Cleaning an open mainspring
If the original mainspring is functional, reusing it can save the cost of purchasing a replacement. In fact, finding an exact replacement for some older or rare clocks can be very challenging for the repairer.
That said, we certainly do not need to send more items to landfill sites. Reusing parts when possible reduces waste and the environmental impact of manufacturing new components.
Inspect the mainsprings during every servicing
Part of servicing a clock movement includes inspecting and cleaning the mainsprings. While open mainsprings are easier to inspect and work with, some repairers may be tempted to skip cleaning those encased in barrels. It’s important to learn how to open mainspring barrels for proper maintenance.
Mainspring barrel
Over time, the mainspring(s) can accumulate old oil, dirt, rust, and debris, which can impede its smooth operation. Removing the mainspring from the barrel or open springs from a movement allows for proper cleaning and lubrication, ensuring the clock runs efficiently.
Open mainsprings that have been serviced
Removing the spring also allows you to apply fresh mainspring oil evenly along the entire length of the spring. But that is not the only reason.
When Should You Replace the Mainsprings?
Removing the mainspring allows you to thoroughly inspect it for any signs of wear, fatigue, or damage that might require replacement. If the spring is in good condition but the hook end is cracked, it can be reused by cutting the spring and fashioning a new hook end. This will make the spring slightly shorter.
However, after a thorough cleaning, the movement will run more efficiently and require less power to run through its designed cycle, be it a day or a week, two weeks, and so, there may be little to no effect from a shortened mainspring. That said, the task of repairing a mainspring is best suited for an experienced clockmaker.
The most straightforward solution for the novice is simply to replace the spring.
Although they may appear set to some, this spring is perfectly usable
As a clock repairer, I rarely replace a mainspring. Even if a mainspring appears “set,” it often still has functionality. The important step is to return the spring to the movement and test it to ensure it meets the required standard by completing its designed cycle. If there is a significant loss, a running time of 2-3 days for an 8-day clock, and if there are no other obvious issues the mainspring must be replaced.
For some, ensuring a clock runs while preserving its original parts might take priority, even if the original mainspring cannot power the clock through its designed cycle. It is therefore essential to balance preservation with functionality.
Using a spring winder while working on a spring within a barrel
By carefully evaluating the mainspring’s condition and the specific needs of the movement, you can make an informed decision that respects both the clock’s history and its mechanical performance.
The term minimal invasive intervention refers to the delicate decision-making process regarding how much work should be done to repair, restore, or conserve a clock without significantly altering its original character. It encapsulates a challenge many collectors face: balancing preservation with functionality.
Some argue that any work performed on an antique clock detracts from its value, much like installing new fenders on an antique car. While it may improve appearance or functionality, it might make the piece less desirable to purists. So, at what point does intervention—however well-intentioned—compromise a clock’s value?
When original parts, particularly the movement or key aesthetic features, are replaced with non-original or modern components, the clock often loses collector value. Authenticity is a cornerstone of desirability for collectors. Replacing a worn movement with a reproduction or modern equivalent significantly reduces value, even if it restores functionality.
Excessive restoration, such as refinishing to a like-new condition, can erase the patina, wear, or other marks of age that contribute to the clock’s historical character. Collectors value the evidence of a clock’s journey through time.
Alterations that cannot be undone, such as resizing a case, changing its design, or permanently altering the movement, reduce value. Reversibility is crucial in maintaining collector interest.
Intervention may not compromise value if the repair restores function without altering original materials or craftsmanship. Rebushing and cleaning are interventions but are generally considered acceptable practices.
I always maintain that there should be Respectfor Provenance, that is, preserving historical repairs, markings, documentation, and patina when they tell the clock’s story through the ages. In addition, using methods and materials appropriate to the clock’s era maintain authenticity.
Let’s look at some definitions.
Repair, Restoration, and Conservation Defined
Repair involves correcting faults or addressing prior poor repairs, often resulting in changes to a clock’s form or function. Repair in a museum context typically addresses specific problems to restore mechanical function or structural integrity while still respecting the clock’s historical value and authenticity.
Restoration seeks to return the clock to an “as new” condition, sometimes requiring reconstruction of parts of the movement or case. Restoration in a museum context involves returning an antique clock to a state that reflects its original appearance or function, often as close as possible to how it was when first made.
Conservation focuses on preserving the clock in its current state while protecting it from further deterioration. This approach aims to maintain the clock as close to its original condition as possible for as long as possible. Conservation in this context prioritizes maintaining the clock’s historical authenticity and ensuring it can be studied and appreciated by future generations. This approach is guided by principles of reversibility, documentation, and respect for the original materials and craftsmanship. A reversible repair means future conservators can undo them if needed.
Some amount of intervention is often necessary and even desired by collectors, but how much is always a delicate balance.
A Case in Point: 1878 E. Ingraham Huron Clock
E Ingraham Hurons were made between 1878 and 1880
Take, for example, an 1878 E. Ingraham Huron time-and-strike balloon clock from my collection. The 16-inch high rosewood case is remarkably well-preserved for its 146 years, with no breaks, cracks, or missing pieces. The hands, pendulum bob, sash, and bezel hardware are all original, as is the movement. The case has been gently cleaned with soap and water and given a light coat of shellac for protection.
The clock face retains a layer of grime that contributes to its aged character, which I chose to leave untouched. However, the movement has suffered from less-than-professional repairs, likely due to the lack of skilled clockmakers in small-town Nova Scotia (Canada) during the clock’s early life. These repairs include soldered joints and realigned gears with pivot holes drilled directly into the plates—techniques probably applied in the 1940s, when soldering guns became more accessible.
Solder repair on the Huronmovement
The clock ran for two or three days before stopping, and even nudging the pendulum provides only a temporary fix. On removing the movement from its case, the extent of these invasive repairs becomes more apparent. Even more apparent was the need for a full servicing.
Solder repair on the second wheel
Deciding on the Right Approach
After consulting a certified horologist, we discussed the options: repair, restore, or conserve? He shared an example of a customer’s kitchen clock (or “Gingerbread clock”), a common family heirloom. While these clocks are rarely of high monetary value, they often hold deep sentimental significance.
He typically repairs such clocks but occasionally replaces irreparable movements with period-correct ones—an option acceptable to many owners, but one that collectors generally frown upon and approach I did not care for.
In the case of my Huron, replacing the movement would significantly reduce its value as a collector’s item. Restoring the original movement, however, would maintain its authenticity and desirability. That is the route we took.
Guiding Questions for Intervention
When deciding how to proceed with any antique or vintage clock, I consider the following:
Does undoing damage from a previous poor repair qualify as overly invasive?
If the repair was performed soon after the clock was made and is historically documented (e.g., markings inside the case), should it remain untouched?
Does the poor repair add or subtract from the clock’s historical provenance, making it part of its story?
Would restoring the movement to its original state be considered a repair or a restoration?
Does removing all solder work qualify as a minimally invasive intervention?
Will the repair enhance or detract from the clock’s value?
Would leaving the clock unrestored qualify as conservation?
The poor repair needed to be addressed. I believe that correcting a subpar repair will always restore the clock’s functionality without diminishing its value. Since only minimal work was done on the case and nothing was done to the dial, I would classify this approach as a repair plus conservation.
The Collector’s Dilemma
Collectors often value clocks that remain as untouched as possible. A pristine, unaltered antique clock that runs is exceedingly rare. However, some intervention is inevitable if the goal is to preserve function, as long as it respects the clock’s historical and aesthetic integrity.
In my view, conservation and repair align most closely with minimal invasive intervention and restoration is inherently more intrusive. Deciding how far to go with a clock involves weighing its historical significance, its condition, and your goals as a collector or caretaker.
When I acquire a clock, the first question I ask is: what outcome am I aiming for based on the price I paid? For inexpensive mantel clocks, I’m willing to undertake extensive case repairs, recognizing that a clock purchased cheaply likely won’t gain significant value. However, for more desirable clocks, I adopt a more cautious approach, carefully determining the minimal work needed to restore functionality and enhance the case’s appearance.
I’d like to hear your views on this subject and how you approach this delicate balance!
It has been said that Ypres has existed in one form or another for close to 1000 years and is probably named after the river Leperlee on the banks of which it was founded. Among the many historic structures in Ypres is the Cloth Hall Tower, an iconic structure with a rich history, including its notable clock and carillon.
Cloth Hall, Ypres
It is a magnificent Gothic structure originally built in the 13th century when Ypres was a major center for the cloth trade. The tower, reaching about 70 meters high, was an essential part of the hall, serving as a belfry and symbolizing civic pride.
The hall, including the clock tower, was heavily damaged during World War I. The post-war reconstruction, completed in the 1960s, restored the building to its former glory, replicating its medieval design.
The clock on the Cloth Hall Tower features a traditional design, complementing the Gothic architecture. It serves as a public clock and supports a carillon.
The clock mechanism is integrated with the tower’s carillon, striking the hours and playing melodies on the bells.
The tower’s carillon contains 49 bells. Historically, the bells played an important role in marking time and broadcasting messages to the town.
Pin drumwith selectable melodies
Today, the carillon plays at regular intervals, and skilled carillonneurs perform concerts, particularly during festivals or commemorative events.
49 bells
The clock and its chimes serve as enduring symbols of resilience and rebirth for the people of Ypres, reminding visitors of the town’s historical significance and the scars left by the First World War.
The Cloth Hall Tower and its clock remain one of Belgium’s most visited heritage sites, offering visitors a tangible link to medieval and modern European history.
In Flanders Fields Museum
The museum is situated within the reconstructed Cloth Hall, the museum is an integral part of the building, drawing thousands of visitors annually.
The museum explores the impact of World War I, particularly the battles fought in the Ypres Salient. It features interactive displays, personal stories, artifacts, photographs, and audio-visual materials to provide a deep and moving understanding of the war.
View from the tower
Visitors to the museum can climb the Cloth Hall Tower. The ascent, which consists of 225 steps, rewards them with panoramic views of Ypres and the surrounding area, including sites of historical significance from the war.
This fall, my wife and I embarked on a battlefield tour of northern France and Belgium. The weather was remarkably good for November in Europe—though mostly cloudy, we were fortunate to avoid any rain. Instead of joining an organized tour, we followed a personalized itinerary thoughtfully put together by our son, inspired by his own visit to France a few years ago.
Vimy Ridge memorial
The highlight of our trip was visiting the Vimy Ridge Memorial near Arras, France. The Battle of Vimy Ridge, a key part of the larger Battle of Arras, saw the four divisions of the Canadian Corps facing three German divisions.
This battle has become a powerful symbol of Canadian sacrifice and national achievement. Standing at the memorial, we were deeply moved as we reflected on the immense loss of life—nearly 3,600 soldiers killed and over 7,000 wounded.
Bomb craters mark the 250-acre Vimy site
We visited many Great War sites and wandered through the graveyards of the fallen, trying to comprehend the unimaginable horrors of the conflict.
Rampart Cemetery in Ypres
One particularly poignant stop was the In Flanders Fields Museum in Ypres, Belgium—a remarkable institution dedicated to preserving and studying the history of the First World War.
The museum is named after the famous poem by Canadian George MaCrae written on December 8, 1915.
George MaCrae
The exhibit tells the story of the invasion of Belgium, the first months of the mobilization, and the four years of unimaginable trench warfare.
The impressive Ypres (Leper, Yper)city hall was faithfully reconstructed after the war and is where the museum is situated
The personal stories of how the First World War affected the lives of individuals of many nationalities are told through the many objects on display. One such object is a time-only French slate clock.
French slate clock
During wartime, soldiers often collected souvenirs as tangible reminders of their experiences, victories, or the places they visited. These items carried emotional, historical, or symbolic value and provided a personal connection to their time in service. Soldiers often found helmets, badges, bayonets, or weapons taken from the battlefield that, to them, symbolized triumph or survival.
These keepsakes not only held personal significance but also allowed soldiers to share their experiences with loved ones upon their return.
One fascinating example is Corporal G. Driver of England, who managed to bring home a French slate clock—an object that would have been notably heavy and cumbersome. How he transported it to England intact remains a mystery. Upon closer inspection, the clock reveals its journey through time, with nicks, scratches, cracks, and remnants of what appears to have been a floral design at its base.
The clock was discovered in a local church that had been devastated during the bombing of Ypres by the advancing German forces.
After Corporal Driver passed on, the family held onto the clock for a period but decided in 2005 to return it to Belgium where it now sits on display at the In Flanders Museum.
What moved us most were the deeply personal stories of the soldiers who fought in the Great War—their courage, resilience, and ultimate sacrifice. Their selflessness ensured that future generations, including all of us today, could live in freedom. These poignant tales of humanity and heroism left an indelible mark on us.
Retirement definitely has its perks, especially the freedom to dive into passions that may have taken a back seat over the years. Soon, we’ll be heading to France—a mix of my love for horology and a chance to revisit the travels of my younger days. This trip feels like a journey back to history, culture, and even my own roots.
Travel, in my opinion, opens our minds in ways nothing else can. Seeing new places, experiencing how others live, and immersing in different cultures broaden our perspectives and help us rethink some of the things we take for granted. It’s like each new experience brings a little reminder of how vast and varied the world is.
France has an especially rich history in horology, with so many contributions to clockmaking over the centuries. I can’t wait to dive into museums and horological spots, seeing for myself the stories behind some of France’s most notable clocks and watches. For me, this trip is more than a hobby; it’s a chance to see some incredible sights and explore new places.
Charles de Gaulle Square, Lille, France
A quick online search reveals a variety of specialized clock museums scattered across France. We’ll be based in Lille, Belgium is just a short trip away—and it offers its own unique contributions to the art of clockmaking.
I’m excited to come back with fresh inspiration and knowledge. This journey is a chance to reconnect with the world that has fascinated me for years. For anyone thinking about retirement adventures, I’d say: take the leap. There’s so much waiting to be discovered out there!
My sister, who’s just a couple of years younger and was once an avid collector of antiques, recently shared something that’s been weighing on my mind. She told me that she’s stopped collecting, something I never thought I’d hear from her. “There’s no one to leave them to, no one who will appreciate them,” she said. “I have this beautiful sterling silver collection, and my son will probably just melt it down and sell it for cash when I’m gone.” Her words stung. I tried to tell her that was harsh, but she insisted that’s how it would end.
If I were younger!
I have started to feel the same. It seems the current generation is far less interested in preserving the past, in keeping these old treasures with all their stories. My own children, although they have each chosen a few cherished clocks from my collection, the rest will go up for auction someday, sold for whatever they can get. It’s a sobering thought, one I try not to dwell on too often.
Adjusting a tall-case clock
In a world where minimalism and rapid change have become ideals, I worry that the beauty and history in antiques are slipping away, lost in the rush to move forward. Each clock I have collected has a story—a legacy of skill and craftsmanship, resilience, and time. I hope that someday, someone will see beyond the dust and patina and recognize the true value these pieces hold. Yet I wonder: how do we make these treasures matter in a world that so easily leaves the past behind?
Maybe it starts with us, sharing stories and teaching others to see these old clocks not as relics but as links to history and memory. Each clock was built with care, by hands that once held a passion for the craft. Each tick and strike is a heartbeat, connecting us to moments long gone.
Maybe, if we bring people close enough to touch and hear these old clocks, we can pass on a little of that wonder. Letting someone hear the rich strike of an old clock, or watching gears move gracefully in time—these small moments can stir something deep, something lasting.
My daughter has her name on this clock
Documenting their stories, through photos and words as I attempt to do with my blog, is my r way of carrying these legacies forward, preserving the memory in a form that lasts longer than I will.
And for those who may stumble upon these stories years from now, I hope they’ll feel that spark of connection. Reaching out to online communities, historical societies, or even local museums could help, too. By blending history with storytelling and technology, maybe we can find a way to preserve this beauty and bring it to life for future generations.
Every November, as we observe Remembrance Day in Canada, we pause to honor those who served in The Great War, World War II, and other conflicts, recognizing their courage and the deep sacrifices made.
This tradition invites us to look back with reverence, keeping memories of lives and histories that have shaped our world close to our hearts. It’s a time of reflection on resilience, respect, and the ways we choose to remember.
Collecting and preserving antique clocks, in its own quiet way, also connects us to the past. Each clock is more than marks the time; it’s a carefully crafted piece of history, often bearing the marks of a life well-lived. Worn dials, faded labels, and small repairs tell stories of the hands they have passed through and the moments they have witnessed.
In restoring and maintaining these old clocks, we preserve parts of a legacy that will otherwise slip away, keeping alive the artistry and dedication of the craftsmen who built them.
My grandfather
Remembrance Day invites us to hold onto the legacy of those who served, and reflecting on their sacrifice is a way to respect and sustain the past.
Through these traditions, we carry forward fragments of history, honouring the enduring impact of lives and stories long gone but not forgotten.
Some time ago, I discussed clock repair in the old days with a horologist acquaintance who completed work on my 138-year-old E. Ingraham Huron mantel clock in my collection. He had just spoken with an 82-year-old friend who spent most of his life in clock repair, reminiscing about how different things were “back in the day.”
I wondered what he meant by “different.” Were things genuinely better in clock repair back then? Let’s take a step back in time.
E Ingraham Huron
Imagine a typical Canadian home in the 1920s or 1930s. In those days, a clock was more than just a decorative piece; it was a vital appliance—just like a refrigerator or washing machine.
For most households, clocks were bought for one simple purpose: to tell time. Often, it was the only timekeeping device in the home, especially for working-class families. And although mechanical clocks were not the most accurate, people did not expect them to be precise to the second. As long as the clock was within a minute or two each week, it was more than up to the task.
These clocks were inexpensive, functional, and built to withstand some wear and tear. My own Arthur Pequegnat “Fan Top” kitchen clock, for instance, was sold for $5 when new in 1912—a significant investment when the average worker earned around $12.75 weekly.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf “Fan Top” kitchen clock
Despite the cost, having a clock in the home was essential for various reasons. When a clock inevitably stopped, it needed a quick and affordable repair, often done by a local tinkerer rather than a professional. This could be a tradesperson like a mechanic or handyman. In rural areas like Nova Scotia, Canada, trained horologists were rare, and even when available, their services could be prohibitively expensive.
The local “tinkerers” kept neighbors’ clocks running, relying on basic tools found around the house: a hammer, pliers, a punch, a file, and a screwdriver. In those days specialized tools for clock repair were expensive and hard to come by and only a jeweler could afford such luxury. Tinkerers often used improvised methods; for instance, they might close a worn pivot hole with a punch or, by the 1940s, use a soldering gun to attach a brass piece, creating a new pivot hole when needed.
Solder repair and re-located pivot hole on an American movement
Cleaning solutions were equally unrefined—soaking movements overnight in gasoline, then oiling them with household oils like motor oil. Reflecting on the cleaning methods of those early tinkerers, the use of gasoline and other flammable solvents to clean clock movements stands out not only for its crudeness but for the inherent danger it posed.
Gasoline was relatively inexpensive and readily available, which made it an attractive option for a low-cost, no-frills clock cleaner. However, using such a volatile substance to clean intricate brass and steel components was not without significant risk.
The workspace for these repairs was often an unheated shed, garage, or basement without proper ventilation, increasing the risk. In these confined spaces, the fumes would linger, building up to dangerous levels. One careless move, and the result could be disastrous, not only for the tinkerer but for anyone in proximity.
The Quick Fix
“Quick fixes” were typically short-term and would eventually lead to further repairs. Still, the customer was satisfied if their clock came back ticking, and they paid only a nominal fee for the service.
These short-term fixes often involved unconventional methods. For instance, rather than replacing worn bushings—small bearings that support moving parts—a tinkerer might use a punch to “close” a pivot hole by pushing the metal back into place. This would hold the pivot for a while, but it also introduced more wear, which would lead to increasingly frequent repairs as the pivot wore down the surrounding material. Other techniques included using adhesives, shims, or rudimentary re-soldering to hold parts together temporarily.
For lubrication, household oils like 3-in-1 were a staple, though they were not formulated for delicate clock movements. These oils would initially help gears move smoothly, but over time, they could become sticky, causing grime to build up and eventually slowing the movement once again. Each time a clock came back for a fix, the tinkerer would apply another short-term solution, usually at little or no cost to the customer, who was primarily concerned with keeping the clock functional.
The cumulative effect of these fixes meant that many clocks would eventually suffer irreversible wear. The gears and pivots would lose their integrity, requiring a complete overhaul if they were to be restored to original condition.
However, it’s worth mentioning that these clocks were not seen as heirlooms or prized possessions; they were utilitarian items. For customers, the reliability and exact timekeeping ability of the clock was not as important as affordability and functionality—if it ticked, it was good enough.
The Emergence of the Electric Clock
In the 1930s, synchronous electric clocks began to replace mechanical ones in homes with electricity. However, in many rural areas, families continued relying on their mechanical clocks, repairing them as needed until electric clocks eventually phased them out.
While many of those old clocks were abandoned, some became cherished family keepsakes passed down through generations.
Today, antique clocks hold a different status; we value their craftsmanship and history. When they need repairs, we use all manner of specialized modern tools—bushing machines, broaches, spring winders, and lathes—to restore them with precision. The result is a repair that lasts, leaving our clocks “better than ever.”
Remembering past tinkers
Yet, it’s important to remember the tinkerers of the past. In their time, they provided an essential service, keeping communities running on time. While we might wince at some of their makeshift repairs and call them “butchers,” those tinkerers were problem-solvers.
Speaking with my friend the horologist helped me better appreciate the humble, practical repairs of the past and the indispensable role these community tinkerers played.
When I encounter a clock with a “homemade” repair, I assess the quality of the work. If the repair, however crude, has stood the test of time, I often choose to leave it as is, recognizing it as part of the clock’s unique history.
Modern Repairs
Clock repair today is a world apart from the makeshift methods used by tinkerers of the past. Modern horologists have access to advanced, highly specialized tools—bushing machines, ultrasonic cleaners, spring winders, precision lathes—that allow them to restore and even improve upon the original functionality of antique clocks. This level of precision would have been unimaginable to the early tinkerers who often relied on a handful of common household tools, improvising as they went along.
Olie Baker spring winder
For them, a hammer, screwdriver, file, and eventually a soldering iron were the core of their toolkit. These tools were not intended for delicate clockwork but were adapted out of necessity, resulting in quick fixes rather than long-lasting repairs.
Enlarging a hole with Bergeon bushing machine
The philosophy behind clock repair has also evolved dramatically. Modern repairs focus on preserving the integrity of the clock, respecting the craftsmanship of its original makers. Each repair is a detailed process, and the goal is longevity. Modern techniques consider the clock’s historical value, aiming to keep its character intact while ensuring that it runs smoothly for years. This contrasts with the approach of early tinkerers, who were less concerned with historical value and more focused on getting the clock running again as quickly and affordably as possible.
Materials and cleaning methods today are specifically formulated for delicate clockwork. High-quality brass bushings, synthetic clock oils, and non-flammable cleaning agents protect the movement and prevent unnecessary wear. In the past, tinkerers often resorted to materials that were easily accessible but not ideal for clock repair. These methods may have restored basic function, but they often led to increased wear over time, necessitating further repairs and eventually compromising the clock’s condition.
In the early 20th century clock repairs were practical, unrefined, and performed with whatever was on hand. On the other hand, modern horologists have become part conservators, honoring the original makers by using high-quality techniques that preserve each clock as a historical artifact.
Modern horologists can train extensively, gaining a nuanced understanding of clock mechanics and restoration practices. Tinkerers, on the other hand, were often self-taught, relying on trial and error, observation, or advice from others. Many of them fixed clocks in their spare time, making do with limited resources and no formal training. Their skills were functional, focusing on keeping clocks ticking within the practical constraints of everyday life.
Today, when a clock is restored, we think of it as honoring history, a far cry from the “just make it tick” mindset of the past. Both approaches, however, share a common thread: a dedication to keeping time alive.
Aclock’s pendulum is a swinging component made up of arod or wire with a weighted bobattached at the end. It is a key part of pendulum clocks, responsible for regulating the movement and ensuring accurate timekeeping.
The pendulum swings back and forth in a precise, periodic motion, controlling the clock’s escapement mechanism and dividing time into equal intervals.
The topic of pendulum weight is a frequent subject of discussion among amateur and professional horologists.
The weight of the pendulum in mechanical clocks is not critical for precise timekeeping but must fall within an acceptable range. Let’s explore why in this article.
Controlling variables
The controlling variable is the length of the entire pendulum assembly (suspension spring, pendulum leader, pendulum bob) from the point where the suspension spring flexes to the center of mass of the entire pendulum assembly. Some clocks will have that length expressed in centimeters or inches stamped on the movement plate.
The number 34 refers to the length of the pendulum in centimeters
The weight of a pendulum has a much smaller effect on its timekeeping compared to the length. In an ideal pendulum, the time it takes to complete a swing (the period) is mostly determined by the length of the pendulum and the acceleration due to gravity, and not by the weight.
The weight of the pendulum
In practical mechanical clocks, the weight of the pendulum can affect the clock’s movement in subtle ways. However, the pendulum’s weight must fall within an acceptable range specified by the movement’s design.
Pendulum bob with adjustment screw
Heavier pendulums are less affected by air resistance. A pendulum that is too light may slow down more over time due to friction with the air. Heavier pendulums tend to be more stable in motion and less affected by external forces like small drafts or air currents.
The weight of the pendulum can affect how much power is required from the clock’s escapement mechanism to maintain the pendulum’s motion. A heavier pendulum may need more energy to keep swinging. If the clock’s escapement is designed for a certain weight, using a much heavier or lighter pendulum could affect timekeeping accuracy.
Suspension spring post
On the other hand, heavier bobs tend to overcome mechanical friction more effectively. If the clock’s gears or escapement are under significant load due to weak mainsprings, old grease, or worn pivot holes, a heavier bob helps maintain consistent motion by stabilizing the escapement’s action. If the clock runs better with an overly heavy pendulum bob, it’s a sign of wear, indicating that the movement needs servicing.
Worn Pivot hole
Additionally, the attachment points (or suspension) of the pendulum and the escapement mechanism may experience increased wear or friction if the pendulum is too heavy. This could cause irregularities in the clock’s timekeeping over time.
In summary
While the length of the pendulum is the primary factor controlling the rate of timekeeping, the weight affects stability, efficiency, and how the clock interacts with the pendulum. However, the length of the pendulum, rather than its weight, is the primary factor in determining a clock’s accuracy.
For a more detailed or technical analysis, horological journals and bulletins delve deeper into the physics of pendulum design and weight. However, I hope this straightforward explanation will be sufficient.
When local daylight time approaches Sunday, November 3, 2024, at 2:00 AM, clocks will be set back one hour to 1:00 AM local standard time instead. As a result, on November 3, 2024, sunrise and sunset will occur approximately one hour earlier than the previous day. This change means there will be more daylight in the morning and less in the evening, which may be viewed positively or negatively depending on your perspective on whether to maintain daylight saving time or eliminate it altogether.
While DST was initially implemented to save energy by extending daylight hours, studies have shown that the actual energy savings are minimal, and in some cases, it may even lead to increased energy consumption due to factors like air conditioning usage. Businesses may face disruptions during the transitions due to scheduling conflicts and decreased productivity, as employees adjust to the time change.
Some argue that the original environmental benefits of DST are no longer relevant due to changes in modern energy consumption patterns and lifestyles.
Spring Forward | Fall Back
“Spring Forward – Fall Back” is a phrase most often heard in the USA and Canada. In North America the word “fall” is used to denote the season, while other English-speaking countries call it autumn. Set your clocks forward 1 hour in the spring at the start of DST (Daylight Saving Time), and 1 hour back in the fall when DST ends.
Records show that the phrase “spring forward, fall back” has been in use at least as far back as the early 20th century. It is the practice of advancing clocks during summer months so that evening daylight lasts longer, while sacrificing normal sunrise times.
Not all regions observe DST, which can create confusion and complications for scheduling across time zones, particularly for businesses and travel.
Let’s eliminate DST!
I suggest everyone contact their local government representative to advocate for this change.
I have recently written my government representative to address this matter.
Dear Sir,
I hope this letter finds you well. As a constituent in your riding, I would like to raise a matter of public interest that I believe would benefit many people across our province: the elimination of Daylight Saving Time (DST) in Nova Scotia.
While originally introduced with the intention of conserving energy, there is growing evidence that Daylight Saving Time no longer serves this purpose effectively. Studies have shown that the energy savings are minimal, if not non-existent, in modern times. Moreover, the biannual time changes disrupt sleep patterns, negatively affect mental and physical health, and contribute to increased workplace and road accidents in the days immediately following the switch.
Many regions across the world have already moved to eliminate DST, recognizing the advantages of maintaining a consistent time schedule year-round. In Canada, several provinces, including British Columbia and Ontario, have considered or are already making steps towards abandoning the practice. The province of Quebec is also probing the time change drop.
Nova Scotians, like others, would benefit from this shift. Adopting a consistent time schedule year-round would improve productivity, support public health, and reduce confusion for businesses and individuals. Additionally, many people today are calling for more stability in their routines, which this change would support.
As my MLA, I encourage you to advocate for the discontinuation of Daylight Saving Time in Nova Scotia. I believe this move would be widely appreciated by many residents, and I am hopeful that it can become a part of the legislative agenda in the near future.
Thank you for your time and attention to this matter. I look forward to hearing your thoughts on this issue and any steps that may be taken in this direction.
The Confusion Between the Terms Antique and Vintage
Among clock collectors and owners of older items, there’s considerable confusion surrounding the correct use of the terms “antique” and “vintage.” These terms are often used interchangeably, and more often than not, incorrectly. According to U.S. law, an “antique” refers to items that are over 100 years old.
Webster’s American dictionary describes an antique as “a work of art, piece of furniture, or decorative object that comes from an earlier period, typically at least a century ago”. Wikipedia supports this view, applying the term “antique” to objects 100 years or older. In short, most sources define “antique” as items that have crossed the 100-year mark.
Much of what is found in an “antique store” are vintage and collectible items
What Does “Vintage” Mean?
The word “vintage,” according to eBay, applies to items that are less than 100 years old but more than 30 years old. However, in everyday conversation, the term often describes anything that is not new, appears worn, or simply looks old—sometimes without any understanding of its actual age or origin. This casual misuse has caused “vintage” to become as overused as “antique.”
Auctions and Marketing Buzzwords
In online auctions, the word “vintage” has become more commonplace. Sellers who know little about the items they are offering frequently label them as “vintage” or “rare,” hoping to appeal to potential buyers. Items that were once considered rare—like the 30-hour Ogee clock—have become much more common with the rise of the internet, where thousands are now available for sale, causing prices to plummet.
Nowadays, a truly rare clock is often one that has significant provenance or is a one-of-a-kind piece.
The Misuse of “Collectible”
“Collectible” is another marketing term that, like “vintage,” has been overused. It suggests that the item is desirable and belongs in your collection, often inflating its perceived value. But just because something is called “collectible” doesn’t always mean it’s valuable.
Jewelry: A Special Category
When it comes to jewelry, anything over 20 years old is frequently classified as vintage. You might also come across terms like “near vintage” or “true vintage,” though there’s no clear definition for these phrases. These terms can be arbitrary, with sellers often assigning their own meaning to them.
Thoughts on Age and Value
Age alone does not guarantee value because the worth of an item is influenced by a combination of rarity, demand, condition, and historical significance. Many clocks that are simply “old” may lack these additional qualities. For instance, mass-produced clocks from past decades may have little value if they were made in abundance (again, the 30-hour Ogee clock) and do not have distinguishing features, craftsmanship, or historical connections.
Also, if an item has deteriorated beyond repair or lacks appeal to collectors, it may not hold much worth despite its age.
Value is often shaped by the significance people assign to it, whether due to its aesthetic, cultural, or nostalgic relevance. Without those added dimensions, something might just be old rather than genuinely valuable.
Case in Point: Dating a Particular Arthur Pequegnat Clock
In my collection, I have an Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock that is undoubtedly old, but I cannot pinpoint its exact year of manufacture. The company produced the Canadian Time model between 1917 and 1941, but the movement and case design do not provide a definitive clue to narrow down its age any further.
While I can’t pinpoint the exact year, the clock was manufactured between 1917 and 1941. As we are now in 2024, even the latest possible date for its production (1941, the year of the company’s demise) puts the clock at 83 years old, edging closer to the 100-year threshold that defines an antique. If the clock were produced in the earlier part of that range, it would already be over 100 years old, meeting the criteria for being considered an antique.
Classifying the Canadian Time clock as an antique also acknowledges its historical and cultural value. The clock embodies the craftsmanship and design aesthetics of early 20th-century clocks, capturing a snapshot of that era’s manufacturing techniques and style. This designation also reflects its quality and the ongoing appeal it holds for collectors and historians alike.
If I were to sell it I would classify it as an antique.
Canadian time clockantique clock
What Truly Matters
Whether your clock is antique, vintage, or collectible, the most important thing is that you enjoy it. Ultimately, a clock’s true value lies in the stories it tells, the memories it holds, and the joy it brings to its owner—qualities that transcend any label or age.
You have just brought a clock that was running smoothly when you first saw it. You bring it home, select a location to display it, reattach the pendulum, and give it a slight push but after a few seconds, it stops. One crucial aspect of keeping a mechanical clock functioning properly is making sure it is “in beat.”
This article assumes that your clock is equipped with a pendulum rather than a balance wheel or platform escapement. A pendulum on a clock is a weight suspended from a pivot so that it can swing freely back and forth. The pendulum’s regular, consistent motion is used to regulate the time on your clock.
What does In-beat Mean
When a clock is “in beat,” it means that the pendulum swings symmetrically, with equal time intervals between the ticks and tocks. This even rhythm ensures that the escapement releases energy consistently, which is essential for keeping accurate time. You will hear a steady “tick-tock” rhythm, with equal spacing between each tick and tock.
If the rhythm sounds irregular—like “tick-tick… tock-tock” or has uneven gaps—the clock is out of beat, meaning the pendulum is not swinging properly in balance.
Ogee clock showing a brass pendulum bob
As the pendulum swings, it controls the release of the clock’s escapement, which allows the gear train to move in a controlled manner, driving the clock’s hands forward.
How to Correct a Clock That’s Out of Beat
Method 1: Tilting the Clock
One way to fix a clock that’s out of beat is by gently tilting it sideways while listening for the sound to become even. Once you hear an even tick-tock pattern, prop the clock in place to maintain the tilt. While this method works, the clock may end up looking tilted and uneven in its position.
Method 2: Adjusting the Crutch
The second method is more precise and involves adjusting the crutch. The crutch is the rod that extends down from the pallets and rocks back and forth with the escape wheel. The pendulum rod passes through a crutch loop or fork at the end of the crutch, and it’s important to ensure the pendulum rod sits in the middle of the loop without being too tight or too loose. The crutch connects to the pendulum leader, which is then attached to a post with a suspension spring.
Movement crutch and pendulum leader
For mantel clocks, making this adjustment is relatively straightforward, as they usually feature rear access doors. Through these doors, you can easily reach the crutch, pendulum rod, and bob. If your clock has a wire crutch (brass wire is pliable), gently bending the wire slightly at the midpoint in either direction will help correct the beat.
For English and German-style clocks, you can make a slight adjustment to the crutch on one side or the other since the crutch is connected to the escapement arbour and fits snugly but moves enough to make an adjustment. Moving it alters the entry and drop of the escapement pallet and corrects the beat.
Additionally, you may need to adjust the height of the escapement by loosening two screws on the suspension spring post and repositioning the pallet, a process that requires time and patience and is best performed on a movement test stand.
Wall clocks, on the other hand, require more effort to perform a beat adjustment. To access the crutch on a wall clock, you’ll need to remove the hands— the minute hand is held by a screw or pin, and the hour hand pulls off— and then remove the dial, which is usually attached with screws. Once these parts are removed the crutch can be adjusted.
Minor beat adjustments on wall clocks can also be made by slightly tilting the clock. The tilt may or may not be noticeable.
A One-Time Procedure
The good news is that you’ll only need to adjust the beat once. Whether your clock is a wall clock, mantel clock, time-only, time and strike, or time, strike, and chime, the principles remain the same. This is a straightforward DIY procedure, so professional help is not necessary.
Moving the Clock
If you relocate the clock to a different spot, it’s often necessary to repeat the process of checking and adjusting it to be in-beat. This is because changes in the environment, such as variations in surface level or vibration from nearby activities, can affect the pendulum’s swing. After moving the clock, always recheck if it is in beat. You may need to re-adjust the pendulum’s crutch to ensure a smooth and even tick-tock rhythm.
Final thoughts
If your clock is not running and efforts to put it in beat have no effect, several underlying issues require remediation. If there is significant wear of the pivots or pivot holes, wear in the pinions, there are broken components, or dried oil creating friction in the movement, all of which may need attention to restore the movement’s function.
After the movement has been serviced, adjusting the clock to be in-beat becomes a much easier task.
For a more comprehensive or technical examination, horological journals, articles, and bulletins provide in-depth insights into the physics of escapement design and theory. However, I trust that this simple explanation will suffice.
There’s something wonderfully calming about the rhythmic ticking of a perfectly in-beat clock.
Every year, my wife and I embark on a fall getaway to our cottage in central Canada to celebrate Thanksgiving. Thanksgiving is a time to express gratitude for the harvest and the blessings of the past year, celebrated with family and friends. It signifies togetherness, reflection, and the importance of giving thanks for life’s abundance. In Canada, Thanksgiving is celebrated in October.
This change of scenery offers us the perfect chance to relax with a few good books and spend quality time with friends and neighbours over a glass (or two) of wine and enjoy roast turkey and all the fixings.
With many of my blog posts written ahead of time, there will be no interruptions in the content I share throughout the fall getaway. As always, you can expect fresh posts on Tuesdays and Fridays at 6:00 am AST.
My blog continues to feature my clock collection, the joys and challenges of maintaining and restoring vintage and antique clocks, and a wealth of horological topics of interest.
While I may be a bit slower in responding to emails and blog comments during this time, rest assured that your questions and feedback are important to me and will be addressed.
During our travels, we’ll likely discover new clocks while browsing antique stores, flea markets, and junk shops. You can look forward to fresh stories, repair challenges, and perhaps a new major restoration project.
Feel free to use the search box to browse past articles, or click “follow” to have clock-related posts delivered directly to your inbox every few days. I hope you enjoy reading these posts as much as I enjoy researching and writing them!
Every clock owner wants to know what their clock is worth, and every seller hopes to sell for as much as possible. This guide offers a framework to evaluate antique and vintage clocks for both buyers and sellers, starting with insights into the unpredictable clock market.
The Unpredictable Clock Market
Determining the value of a clock is often challenging. The market fluctuates, and what you think your clock is worth today may not align with expert opinions or what buyers are willing to pay. Trends come and go, and the value of clocks can drop or rise unexpectedly.
For example, I once came across a mid-1990s Howard Miller grandfather clock listed on Facebook Marketplace for $3,000. After several days with minimal interest, the seller gradually lowered the price to $1,500, but it still did not sell. In reality, it was only worth around $500 on a good day.
This shows how subjective personal value can be, and the reality is that modern clocks, like many Ridgeway or Howard Miller models, often do not hold their original value. What you believe holds significant value may not align with what potential buyers are willing to pay.
Scottish tall case clock
Even an appraised value is just an educated opinion, reflecting current market conditions, the clock’s condition, and its collectibility. As market trends shift, the value of a clock can change significantly.
Factors in Assessing Clock Value
Is It Original? Originality significantly impacts value. Clocks with replaced or missing parts tend to lose their appeal to collectors. Many “Vienna Regulators” found online, for example, are hybrids of mismatched cases and movements. In some instances, parts are missing altogether.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator
Clocks marketed as “complete and original” by sellers who admit they know little about clocks should be approached with extreme caution. Always verify the clock’s parts with an expert or a reputable auction house to ensure accuracy.
What Type or Style Is It? The style or type of clock affects value. While common American mantel clocks may be worth little due to their mass production, specific models like the E.N. Welch “Patti” line or Seth Thomas Sonora clocks command high prices.
Wall clocks, especially those from the 19th century made in limited quantities, generally hold a higher value than mantel clocks which were produced in the thousands.
Seth Thomas #2 wall clock
Grandfather clocks, also known as hall clocks, longcase, or tallcase clocks, can often be acquired for a fraction of their value, despite many that are 150+ years old. Tall clocks are bulky, requiring significant floor space. Many people don’t have the room or the inclination to accommodate such large items, especially in smaller or more modern living spaces.
A Label, Trademark, or Prominent Name adds Value An intact label, trademark, or known maker adds value. A clock with a visible maker’s mark, such as an E. Howard or an original Willard banjo clock, is often sought after due to their craftsmanship and brand recognition.
A label, trademark, or maker’s mark verifies the clock’s authenticity, confirming that it is an original piece from a recognized manufacturer. This eliminates doubts about whether the clock is a reproduction or a mix of parts, which increases its value to collectors.
Pequegnat Canadian Time clock label
A visible maker’s mark or label helps establish the clock’s provenance, providing important information about its origin, manufacturer, and production period. Clocks with clear histories, especially from reputable makers, are more desirable because they can be accurately placed within historical or stylistic contexts.
A clock’s history can boost its value. A story or historical significance attached to a clock, or a clock with a clear and documented background may attract more buyers and command a higher price.
Reproduction labels or unmarked movements raise red flags for serious collectors.
The Correct Period or a Reproduction? Period authenticity is key. Many reproduction clocks closely resemble originals from the early 1900s but have far less value. For example, Seth Thomas reissued its famous Regulator #2 in the 1970s, but collectors prefer the originals from the late 1800s, which have clearer distinguishing features.
Reproduction clocks are often made with modern manufacturing techniques and less expensive materials, resulting in a lower quality product compared to hand-crafted originals. Collectors and buyers appreciate the craftsmanship of original clocks, which were made with more attention to detail and durability.
Some sellers would pass off this 1970s Jauch clock as an antique
Original clocks from the early 1900s carry historical value due to their connection to a specific time period, reflecting the craftsmanship, design, and technology of that era. Reproduction clocks, even if they mimic the look of the originals, lack this historical significance, making them less valuable to collectors.
Novice collectors are often tempted by reproductions (particularly if the clock is passed off as original), and if they’re uncertain, they should consult a professional for guidance.
Age and Condition A clock’s condition is crucial to its value. Clocks with missing pieces, broken hands, or poorly repainted dials are worth much less, even if they are from reputable makers. Age alone does not guarantee value—certain styles or makers, despite being centuries old, may not be popular among collectors.
Some buyers are specifically looking for clocks in original, unrestored condition, even with signs of wear. Restoration can eliminate the clock’s patina, which is often considered part of its historical appeal.
A well-functioning clock is more appealing to buyers. Properly repairing the movement restores its functionality, often increasing its resale value, as people are naturally drawn to a working clock.
In some cases, restoring a clock too thoroughly—by polishing, repainting, or replacing parts—can strip away its historical character. Over-restored clocks may look “too new,” which can detract from their antique charm and value.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf fantop restored case
The cost of repairing or refinishing a clock may outweigh the potential increase in resale value. If the clock isn’t particularly rare or valuable, to begin with, investing heavily in restoration may not yield a return in the marketplace. Sellers often do not service their clocks, either because they lack the necessary skills or because the cost of repair doesn’t justify the potential profit.
Is the Clock Collectible? Desirability can be influenced by rarity and regional interest. For instance, Arthur Pequegnat clocks are highly sought after in Canada but may fetch lower prices outside the country. True Vienna Regulators from the early 19th century are another example of rare clocks that remain valuable, especially when they are original and authentic.
The Mechanism Type The complexity of a clock’s mechanism can impact its value. Clocks with a three-train mechanism (time, strike, and chime) tend to be more valuable than simpler two-train or one-train models.
Clocks with more complex mechanisms, such as those with three-train movements, demonstrate a higher level of craftsmanship. These mechanisms control multiple functions, like chiming, striking, and keeping time, requiring greater precision and skill in their design and assembly. As a result, clocks with such elaborate mechanisms are often considered superior and more desirable, elevating their market value.
More complex mechanisms, like three-weight Vienna Regulator Grande Sonnerie clocks, are generally rarer than their single- or two-train counterparts. The production of these complex movements required more skill and was often reserved for higher-end models or special commissions, making them less common and more sought after by collectors. Their scarcity in the market can drive up their value, especially when the clock is in good working condition with original parts.
Collectors often prioritize clocks with intricate mechanisms because they showcase the ingenuity and technological advancements of their time. The presence of a three-train mechanism, or a clock with additional complications like chiming or an alarm, indicates a higher level of mechanical achievement. These clocks are often seen as more valuable historical artifacts, and their complexity can make them the centerpiece of a collection.
On the flip side, clocks with more complex mechanisms can be harder and more expensive to repair or maintain, which may deter some buyers. A three-train movement has more moving parts that could potentially break down or require servicing, and specialized knowledge is often needed to repair them. However, collectors willing to invest in these repairs typically appreciate the value of the clock and understand that the effort is worth it.
Do Your Research and Meet the Seller In Person!
Before buying or selling a clock, check eBay listings, reputable auction houses, local buy-and-sell sites, antique shops, and online message boards. Prices can be volatile, and what may have sold for a high price years ago may be worth much less today. For example, some clocks that were once highly valued, are now relatively inexpensive due to oversupply.
Antique shops are potential places for a good buy
As a buyer, ask detailed questions and verify originality before making a purchase. Sellers should provide an honest and clear description of their clock, disclosing any replaced parts or modifications. Keep in mind that while the clock market may seem chaotic, high-end, sought-after clocks tend to retain their value over time.
Meeting the seller face to face is often the best approach. A personal meeting allows buyers to gauge the seller’s honesty and integrity, making them feel more secure in their purchase.
Seeing the clock in person allows the buyer to closely inspect its condition, functionality, and any potential issues that may not be apparent in photos. This firsthand assessment helps buyers make informed decisions about the clock’s value and condition. They can check for labels, trademarks, and other identifying features that may influence the clock’s value. Buyers can also evaluate the quality of craftsmanship and materials up close.
Face-to-face meetings provide a better opportunity for negotiation. Buyers can engage in real-time discussions, express their concerns, and potentially negotiate a fair price based on the clock’s condition and market value. In-person interactions often lead to more flexible negotiations than online communications.
Sellers who are passionate about their clocks can provide detailed information about the piece’s history, repairs, and provenance often enhancing the buying experience and adding value to the transaction.
Photos can be misleading, and details may be overlooked in written descriptions. Meeting the seller face to face reduces the risk of misrepresentation, as buyers can directly address any discrepancies they find during their inspection.
Meeting in person can eliminate the need for shipping, which can be costly and risky for fragile antique clocks. Buyers can transport the clock themselves, ensuring it arrives safely.
If you have any doubts or the answers you’re receiving from the seller seem uncertain, always—without exception—be prepared to walk away.
Now is a good time to buy or sell
Now is an excellent time to buy, as many bargains can be found with careful research. For sellers, patience and realistic expectations are key. Understanding the market, setting fair prices, and presenting items attractively will increase your chances of success. Whether buying or selling, doing your homework is essential to navigating this unpredictable landscape.
Over the past 12 years, time has flown by, and just recently, while cleaning a clock I serviced over five and a half years ago, I realized that I have been immersed in this hobby for a long time—and loving every moment of it.
Three years into my journey, I started blogging, a passion that’s been going strong for almost 9 years. Writing not only allows me to track my progress as I delve deeper into the world of clock collecting, repair, and restoration, but it also provides an opportunity to blend my photography hobby with my love for storytelling.
It has been a fascinating journey, one filled with countless lessons. Here are some of my thoughts and reflections on what I have learned along the way.
From Quantity to Quality
In my early days of clock collecting, I acquired nearly any clock I could find—some for as little as $5—mainly to practice repairing cases and movements. However, the collection quickly grew, and I soon found myself running out of space—a common challenge for many collectors.
I eventually settled on a comfortable number of around 80 clocks. I aim to follow a “one in, one out” rule to keep the collection manageable. It’s not always easy, though, as there’s always something tempting that catches my eye.
Over time, I have become more selective, focusing on specific types such as wall clocks and weight-driven models or clocks that are unique and interesting. At present, my primary focus is Canadian-made clocks and those with a strong Canadian connection.
Patience Yields Rewards
Restoration projects take time, and I have learned to embrace a slow, methodical process. My last major project, an antique 1840s banjo clock, took almost a year to complete after I acquired it in 2021. I worked on it in stages, researching new techniques and patiently waiting for the right tools to make the job easier. For example, a band clamp turned out to be indispensable for the wood bezel repair.
A movement will often sit on my bench for weeks as I work through the various stages of servicing. This gives me time to carefully consider any problem areas, mitigate them, and document my progress on my blog.
Tools: Invest Wisely and Gradually
As with any hobby that involves mechanical work, tools can be expensive. In the beginning, I used whatever I had on hand, which consisted mainly of household tools, but as my commitment grew, I began investing in specialized equipment.
Although buying used equipment is always an option for some, living in a less populated area of Canada, the East Coast, means fewer opportunities to find pre-owned tools.
I always consider pre-owned tools first but used tools are not always in the best condition because they are heavily used, improperly maintained, or simply worn out over time. Tools can suffer from wear and tear, rust, dull blades, or misaligned parts, all of which can impact their effectiveness. This can make it difficult to rely on used tools for precise work, especially in a hobby like clock repair where accuracy is crucial.
For instance, a used Bergeon Bushing Machine might seem like a great deal at 950 CAD on eBay, but if the cutters are dull or damaged, replacing them can cost 300 CAD or more.
The Changing Values of Antique & Vintage Clocks
Not all old clocks are valuable, despite their age. Old is not gold as one of my readers has said. In fact, a glut of antique clocks on the internet has driven prices down and that trend is unlikely to change in the next several years.
For example, Ogee clocks that once sold for $200–$300 are now worth a fraction of that. 30-hour Ogee clocks also are not wanted by most collectors resulting in a significant decline in their value. Mantel, wall, and tall-case clocks have also seen a similar price drop.
I have bought $40 clocks that are still worth… well, $40. With the advent of the Internet, a vast majority of antique and vintage clocks flooded the market, leading to reduced demand and lower prices. Inexpensive clocks are generally in poor condition, require significant repairs, or are lower in quality or craftsmanship, making them less desirable. Shifts in collector interest have also influenced prices, with clocks that were once popular losing their appeal over time, which has affected their value.
On the other hand, prestigious clocks, especially those that are highly intricate or come with documented provenance, tend to have higher values, and their prices continue to remain elevated.
Balancing Passion, Skills & Knowledge
It’s important to avoid diving too deeply into a hobby beyond your current skills and knowledge. Stick to what you know and what you’re capable of handling, and remain conscious of your level of expertise.
By focusing on your strengths, you can enjoy the process and make steady progress without becoming overwhelmed. Trying to tackle projects or techniques that are beyond your abilities can diminish your enthusiasm for the hobby.
Setting realistic goals and gradually expanding your skills can enhance your experience. As you become more comfortable and knowledgeable, you can take on more challenging projects at your own pace. Continuous learning while respecting your limits allows you to grow in this hobby without losing your passion.
There’s strength in recognizing what I can’t do and in acknowledging when something is beyond my expertise. For example, deciding not to offer clock repair as a service shows that I know what brings me joy without overcommitting.
By knowing my limits, I avoid turning enjoyable activities, like collecting or maintaining clocks, into a source of stress. Setting limits allows me to concentrate on what truly matters—like focusing on Canadian-made clocks or curating a meaningful collection.
We all make mistakes but it is not a time to give up after one mistake. Pushing on despite setbacks is equally important. It helps build resilience and determination, essential qualities for any hobbyist. Challenges should reinforce your commitment to the craft. When faced with a challenge, my strategy is to step back temporarily and focus on something else until a solution presents itself.
Having said that, It is also beneficial to recognize when it is time to seek help or advice from more experienced collectors or professional repair persons.
On the flip side, Facebook clock groups are often a mix of tinkerers and experts, which can lead to misinformation. Well-meaning hobbyists frequently provide misguided advice to novice clock repairers.
I maintain a library of clock repair booksand prefer consulting them over seeking solutions on social media.
Profit Should not be the Motivation
For some, clock collecting might be about turning a profit, but that is not my motivation. I do occasionally sell a clock to offset the cost of tools, but for me, the real joy lies in the nostalgia, the design, and the marvel of a 150-year-old machine that still works perfectly today.
Each clock tells a story, connecting me to the craftsmanship and history of its time. It is incredibly rewarding to restore old clocks and witness them spring back to life, just as they were intended over a century ago without seeing profit along the way.
Sometimes Walking Away is the Best Strategy
Over the years, I have walked away from many clocks. Whether it’s an auction price that’s gone beyond my budget or a clock with too many issues, I have learned to let go. Some clocks would have been great additions to my collection, but I’m not willing to compromise when something feels off—whether it’s the price or the condition.
Trusted Auction sites are easily accessible today, and many clocks are available on their platforms. I make it a habit to establish my maximum bid at the start of the auction and stick to my plan. While I have missed out on a few clocks, I deemed them overpriced.
Connecting with Fellow Horological Travelers
One of the highlights of this journey has been connecting with other collectors, especially through my blog. As clock enthusiasts, we form a unique community—many of us are introverts, yet we thrive when discussing our shared passion. The friendships I’ have built and the knowledge I have gained from these connections have been invaluable.
Looking back, it’s been an incredible period of learning, collecting, and connecting with others. I have acquired some fascinating clocks and met wonderful people, and I look forward to the next chapter in this ongoing adventure.
If you found this article helpful or have any follow-up questions, feel free to share your thoughts in the comment section below.
I recently had the opportunity to expand my collection with more Canadian-made clocks, including a 30-hour Ogee clock produced by the Canada Clock Co. at their Hamilton plant between 1880 and 1884.
Canadian clock companies have historically struggled to survive due to fierce competition from American manufacturers. Companies like Westclox in Peterborough survived largely due to their connections with U.S. parent companies, while smaller firms like Pequegnat persevered independently for as long as possible until the market and materials eventually declined.
Clockmaking in Whitby & Hamilton, Ontario
From 1872 to 1884, a group of Canadian clockmakers sought to compete with American companies by producing locally-made clocks designed for the Canadian market.
The Canada Clock Co. (Whitby, Ontario), the Hamilton Clock Co. (Hamilton, Ontario), and the Canada Clock Company (Hamilton, Ontario) faced significant challenges in the 19th century during a 12-year span as they sought to establish Canada’s presence in the clock-making industry.
The Canada Clock Co. was founded in Whitby, Ontario, in 1872, but its operations ceased after just four years, largely due to a catastrophic factory fire.
In 1876, key figures from the failed company, including manager John Collins, relocated to Hamilton to form the Hamilton Clock Co. Despite this renewed effort, the company folded after four years, halting production in 1880.
Later that year, another attempt was made to revive the industry with the creation of a new Canada Clock Co., reusing the old name and operating out of the former Hamilton Clock Co. factory. Unfortunately, success remained elusive, and the company declared bankruptcy in 1884, marking the end of a dozen turbulent years of clock production in the Canadian market.
Movements were made in Canada though they were essentially copies of American movements, most notably those manufactured by the Waterbury Clock Company. Case styles were also “borrowed” from Waterbury, Ansonia, and New Haven. Made in Canada, yes, original designs, no!
30-hour Ogee Clocks
Fortunately, many clocks from the three companies have survived to this day and occasionally they show up on online auction sites and other for-sale sites.
I have one other Ogee clock from this group of companies, one from the Hamilton Clock Company. It is exactly the same dimensions as a typical American Ogee of that time and mirrors the clock’s dimensions described in this article.
The brass movement of the Hamilton clock is a 30-hour time and strike and weight driven. Of particular interest is the use of an etched tablet that resembles a silk screen technique.
I have four other 30-hour Ogee clocks, two from Chauncey Jerome, a George H. Clark, and a Waterbury. All share the same dimensions as my two Canadian-made clocks.
Why were they so popular?
They were popular in the 19th century for a number of reasons. Most households did not need clocks with extended run times, and daily winding became a routine part of life, so the 30-hour duration was not seen as a disadvantage.
They were more affordable to produce and purchase, making them accessible to a broader audience. The weight-driven mechanism was simple, reliable, and required little maintenance. Unlike steel springs, which were expensive to manufacture in the early days, the weights were cheap to produce, further reducing costs.
Finally, the Ogee clock’s distinctive double-curved molding often made with exotic veneers was visually appealing and complemented the furniture styles of the period.
Canada Clock Company Ogee
My latest Ogee was made between 1880 and 1884 at the Canada Clock Co. factory in Hamilton, Ontario.
Auction photo
This clock has several intriguing features. First, it is the only one in my Ogee collection that includes an alarm function. Before the widespread availability of affordable alarm clocks or reliable pocket watches, many people relied on their household clock to wake them up in the morning. This was especially helpful in agrarian societies, where waking up early was essential for tending to livestock or starting farm work.
The brass dial sets the alarm
Second, the glass tablet showcases a unique cherub figure that differs from any designs I have encountered on similar clocks from the three companies. Unfortunately, the cherub has partially faded over time.
The grain is worn on the left side
Third, the clock features an imitation wood-grained finish that I have not encountered on other Ogee clocks. Genuine exotic or high-quality wood, such as mahogany or rosewood, was expensive. By using cheaper, locally available wood like pine or basswood and applying a faux wood grain finish, clockmakers could mimic the look of luxurious woods at a fraction of the cost.
Overall the imitation grain looks good
While most of the “grain” is still intact, some of it has worn away in the Ogee section on the right side. Although it requires cleaning, I must be careful to preserve the “grain.”
Fourth and final, it is one of the few Ogee clocks I have encountered that still has the dust blocks for the pulleys intact. There are two, one on each side located on the top of the case. These are frequently lost at some point in the clock’s life.
The label is mostly intact missing the bottom left-hand corner section. A clock’s label includes the name of the manufacturer. This helps identify where the clock was made and by whom, which is essential for authentication. This is particularly important when there is no maker’s stamp on the movement.
Servicing and Cleaning
This might turn into a winter project since I have several clocks waiting for servicing. However, I’d like to focus on the case first to preserve the faux grain. The plan is to give it a light cleaning and apply a coat or two of traditional shellac to help protect the finish.
I noticed that the hammer lever (strike-side) got stuck when I briefly ran the clock. It’s probably just a small adjustment, but I’ll need to disassemble the movement regardless. While I’m at it, I will also take care of any wear issues.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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