Wells Cathedral, located 31 kilometers south of Bristol in Somerset, England, is a masterpiece of early English Gothic architecture. Built between the 12th and 15th centuries, it is renowned for its striking west front adorned with hundreds of medieval statues, its impressive scissor arches supporting the central tower, its beautifully preserved Chapter House, and its turret clock, which remained at the Cathedral until the 19th century when it was replaced with a more modern design.
As the seat of the Bishop of Bath and Wells, it remains an active place of worship and a popular destination for visitors drawn to its rich history and architectural splendor.
My wife and I used Bristol in May 2024 as a staging point for our visit to the area, including a trip to Bath. Had I realized beforehand that Wells Cathedral was so close, we would have made a point to visit it.
Wells Cathedral turret clock, 1392
While most of the Wells Cathedral clock is displayed at the British Science Museum in London England, parts including the hands, dial, and animated figures remain at the Cathedral.
The clock has been meticulously maintained to this day.
Bells and weightsA description of the clock
“The clock is one of the Science Museum’s most cherished exhibits. It chimes every quarter hour and strikes each hour. The ingenuity of clockmakers throughout history has helped shape our lives. Clocks today are still at the heart of modern science, technology, and engineering.”
We will make a point to visit the cathedral next time we are in the UK.
I generally do not reveal the names of those who write to me when sharing their comments. I attempted to reach out to the author, but after several months without a response, I believe quoting their letter does not breach confidence, especially as I have also safeguarded their location.
It’s a sincere message, so here it is.
“I Just stumbled across your article. Theodor Jauch’s company was my grandfather’s. It was located in Deisslingen (not Schwenningen which is a nearby larger town). I grew up in Ireland, but as a boy, we visited my grandfather regularly, he lived in an apartment at one end of the U shaped factory building, to reach it one walked down a corridor with about 3 offices on each side, each with what seemed like 100 clocks in it, each chiming at different times.
An example of aJauch clock, a time and strike wall clock
After my grandfather’s death, it passed to my father and his older brother, soon thereafter as far as I know it was wholly owned by his brother when the estate was settled, but went bankrupt within several years (1976). I do know from my father, that while some clocks were sold in the USA, far more clock mechanisms were sold to US companies who put them into their own housing designs. I do of course have one of the wall clocks, with the 2 weights, on my living room wall (and recently brought another one from a family member in Germany, back to another family member in USA.”
A time-only calendar schoolhouse clock
Thank you so much for reaching out and sharing such a personal and fascinating glimpse into your family’s history. I’m particularly intrigued by the vivid image of the factory building and the offices filled with clocks striking/chiming at different times—it must have been such a unique experience for a young boy to witness.
It’s also interesting to learn that Deisslingen, rather than Schwenningen, was the true home of the company. These details help paint a fuller picture of Jauch’s history, and I deeply appreciate you taking the time to share them.
The insight about clock movements being sold to U.S. companies aligns with the approach of many clock manufacturers of that era. This was a common practice.
It’s wonderful to hear that you’ve preserved a piece of this legacy with one of Jauch’s wall clocks on your living room wall, The connection to these clocks clearly goes beyond just their functionality—they’re a tangible link to your family’s story.
Thank you again for taking the time to share your memories. It’s been a privilege to hear your perspective, and I hope we can continue this conversation.
Have you ever come across the term FrankenClock in the world of clock collecting? If not, let me explain.
Imagine purchasing a clock, hoping that every mechanical component, finial, and piece of trim is original, only to later discover—through experience, research, or sheer luck—that it isn’t. How would that make you feel? Disappointed? Cheated? Many collectors have faced this reality. A clock with non-original or mismatched parts is often referred to as a FrankenClock.
A Case in Point -A Gustav Becker Two-Weight Vienna Regulator
To illustrate, let me share the story of my own Vienna regulator clock that I purchased in 2016. At a glance, it presents very well, keeps excellent time, and has undergone necessary restoration, thorough cleaning, oiling, and case repairs. But is it original in every way? No, not by a long shot.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator
When I purchased this clock, it was sold as a “project clock,” with the seller making no claims about its originality—a fair and transparent transaction reflected in what I determined to be a fair price in 2016. Over time, I uncovered several details that revealed its true history.
The following is what I now know concerning my Gustav Becker 8-day time and strike wall clock
The Glass Panels
When the clock arrived, I had no way of knowing whether the glass panels—the front door glass and side lights—were original. It became a moot point when they shattered during shipping. The case also sustained damage, though not severe enough to require new parts—mostly just glue failing and pieces coming loose. When I took the case to a glass installer, they asked two key questions: Why is the side glass thicker than the front glass? And why were finishing nails used to secure the panels? These details cast doubt on whether the glass that came with the clock was original. In any event, the panels were replaced with new glass.
What I had assumed to be original was, in fact, another chapter in the clock’s long journey.
The Weights
At first glance, the clock’s two weights appeared identical. However, closer inspection revealed a subtle difference in their hook designs. Given Gustav Becker’s reputation for precision, it seems unlikely that the factory would have issued mismatched weights. This suggests that at least one weight is a replacement (and probably both, for that matter).
The Movement
The movement appears appropriate for the period and case, but is it original? The seller had disclosed missing parts, including the star wheel/snail, strike hammer, and rod. Additionally, the gathering pallet was bent, preventing the strike side from functioning. It was evidently harvested for parts.
Determined to restore the clock, I sourced what I thought was an exact donor movement from Poland—specifically from Gustav Becker’s Braunau factory (as opposed to the Silesia factory). However, despite being only 16 years newer, the donor movement had subtle differences: thinner plates, redesigned lever springs, a slightly thicker minute arbour shaft, and incompatible strike components. Unfortunately, the replacement parts were not interchangeable with the original movement.
Though disappointed, I decided to swap the entire movement, though I kept the original movement for transparency. If I ever sell the clock, I will disclose this change along with all other modifications.
It gets better (or worse).
Replacement hands and brass bezel
Other Replacements and Repairs
The spun brass dial bezel is a period-correct replacement which I sourced because the original was bent during shipment.
Some trim pieces, such as the bottom finials may have been added later, though their exact origin remains uncertain.
The bottom center finial is a replacement. Interestingly, it has wormwood holes, whereas the case itself has no traces of worm damage.
The clock originally had Ogee clock hands rather than Vienna regulator hands. Ogee clock hands are not correct for this clock. After an extensive search through suppliers in Canada, the U.S., and Britain, I was surprised by the limited availability of Vienna regulator hands. Eventually, I sourced a set from Poland. Although they are not historically accurate and not the design that might have been on the clock face at the time, I eventually settled on sleeker hands that look appropriate and will suffice for now.
Lessons Learned
I hesitate to dig any deeper into this clock, fearing I will uncover even more shortcomings.
Despite its mix of original and replacement parts, this clock remains a valuable learning experience.
Many collectors unknowingly own FrankenClocks—clocks that have been altered with non-original or mismatched parts. While reputable auction houses often disclose repairs, replacements, or questionable components, online listings are far less reliable. Sellers on popular online marketplaces may not always be aware of a clock’s history or may choose to omit important details.
When buying a clock, especially online, approach with caution. Examine all available photos carefully, looking for inconsistencies in the case, dial, hands, movement, and other components. Ask the seller direct questions about originality, repairs, or missing parts, and request additional photos if something seems unclear. If possible, compare the clock to known examples from reference books, collector forums, online image searches, or auction archives.
Be particularly wary of listings that provide vague descriptions, low-quality images, or no mention of service history. A clock that looks pristine may have been heavily restored, while one advertised as “original” may contain replacement parts that significantly affect its value. If purchasing in person, inspect the clock thoroughly—check for signs of “over-restoration”, mismatched components, or modern hardware securing old parts. If I see a Robertson or Phillips screws on a 100+-year-old clock I immediately back away.
Ultimately, knowledge is your best defense. The more informed you are about a particular clock model, the better equipped you’ll be to recognize potential red flags before making a purchase.
Allow me to take 5 minutes of your time to watch my video of 19 wall clocks in my collection. Each wall clock is identified by its maker, where known. The video features background music throughout, with a brief segment of sound highlighting the winding of a Mauthe wall clock. Otherwise, there is no dialog.
My only requirement is that the clock must be in good working order and have an appealing appearance.
19 wall clocks in my collection
My entire collection consists of 85 clocks. Many are on display in my home, and some are in the process of restoration or repair.
Reaching one million views on a blog is an achievement that any writer, content creator, or blogger should be proud of. It represents dedication, consistency, and the ability to engage an audience over time. For me, this milestone is particularly meaningful, as it reflects years of sharing my passion for clocks, restoration, and horological history with readers around the world.
My very first article featured this Arthur Pequegant Brandon wall clockwhich I still own
The Journey to One Million
When I first started blogging nearly nine years ago, I had no idea where the journey would take me. At the time, my primary goal was simply to document my experiences in clock collecting, repair, and restoration. Over time, I found that others shared my enthusiasm, and what began as a personal project slowly evolved into a resource for fellow collectors and enthusiasts.
Building a readership takes time and patience. There are no shortcuts to growing a blog, and every milestone along the way—100 views, 1,000 views, 10,000 views—felt like a small victory. But hitting one million views is something entirely different. It signals that the blog has made an impact, that the content resonates with people, and that the effort invested has been worthwhile.
Why One Million Matters
For any blogger, reaching one million views is a testament to perseverance. Blogging is not just about writing; it involves research, photography, formatting, and engagement with readers. It requires consistency, especially in niche topics like horology. Many blogs start strong but fade over time, yet those who keep at it, who continue to publish meaningful content, are the ones who reach major milestones like this.
One million views also reflect the power of a dedicated audience. Readers return because they find value in the content, whether it’s informative articles, restoration tips, or historical insights. Each view represents a person who took the time to read, learn, or engage with the blog.
Lessons Learned Along the Way
Consistency is Key – Regular posting keeps readers engaged and helps build a loyal audience.
Engagement Matters – Responding to comments, emails, and messages fosters a sense of community.
Quality Over Quantity – Well-researched and well-written articles have a lasting impact. I’ve found that writing two articles a week is the ideal balance for me, allowing for more substance and depth rather than churning out daily content.
Passion Drives Success – Writing about something you truly love makes the process enjoyable and sustainable.
Adaptability is Important – Over time, blogs evolve based on audience interest and personal growth as a writer.
However, my greatest learning experience has been realizing how much I still don’t know. To be an expert in horology is to acknowledge that there is always more to learn and discover. Even now, I occasionally encounter unique challenges that leave me stumped, prompting me to dig deeper and expand my understanding.
Looking Ahead
While one million views is a significant achievement, it’s not the end of the journey. There are always new clocks to discover, stories to share, and knowledge to pass on. This milestone serves as motivation to continue writing, improving, and connecting with readers who share a passion for horology.
To my readers—whether you’ve been following from the beginning or just recently discovered my blog—thank you. Your support, comments, and shared enthusiasm have made this journey incredibly rewarding. Here’s to the next million!
When it comes to mechanical clocks, accuracy is the ultimate measure of their performance. Whether it’s the steady tick of a wall clock or the rhythmic chime of a grandfather, several factors play a crucial role in determining how well a clock keeps time. From the quality and condition of the movement to environmental influences like temperature and humidity, understanding these elements can help clock enthusiasts maintain optimal performance.
In this article, we’ll explore the key factors that influence the accuracy of mechanical clocks and share insights on how to improve timekeeping.
Temperature Variations: Changes in temperature can affect the expansion and contraction of the pendulum rod or balance wheel, altering the clock’s timing.
Pendulum Length: The length of the pendulum directly impacts the clock’s rate; even small changes can cause noticeable timing shifts.
Quality of the Escapement: The condition and design of the escapement mechanism play a significant role in ensuring consistent energy transfer to the clock’s timekeeping elements. There are many types of escapements but let’s compare two types of escapements, the recoil and the deadbeat, in terms of accuracy.
The recoil escapement, commonly found in older and less expensive clocks, works by allowing the pallet to “recoil” or move backward slightly as it interacts with the escape wheel. This backward movement is necessary for the escapement to release the gear teeth, which in turn, drives the clock’s timekeeping element. While the recoil escapement’s main drawback is that it introduces a certain amount of friction and error in the system. The recoil effect, while helping to reset the escape wheel, also causes a loss of energy, leading to slightly less efficient timekeeping. Over time, this can result in a minor but noticeable deviation in the clock’s accuracy.
In contrast, the deadbeat escapement was developed to eliminate the recoil by incorporating a design where the pallet comes to a complete stop, or “deadbeat,” as it engages with the teeth of the escape wheel. This design allows for a more precise and energy-efficient transfer of power to the pendulum or balance wheel. Because the escapement doesn’t suffer from the backward movement of the pallet, the deadbeat escapement reduces friction and wear on the movement, leading to better overall accuracy. The lack of recoil also contributes to smoother, more stable motion in the timekeeping elements, making the deadbeat escapement highly regarded for its precision.
While both escapements have their place in horology, the deadbeat escapement is generally considered superior when it comes to accuracy. The absence of recoil means there’s less energy lost in the system, resulting in more stable timekeeping and a higher degree of precision over longer periods. On the other hand, the recoil escapement, though reliable, tends to be more prone to minor fluctuations in accuracy due to its inherent friction and the recoil motion it generates.
Overall, the deadbeat escapement is more commonly found in high-end, precision clocks, where accuracy is paramount, while the recoil escapement is often found in more basic or traditional designs.
Friction and Wear: Excessive friction in the movement or worn components, such as bushings or pivot holes, can disrupt accuracy.
Lubrication: Inadequate or deteriorated oil can increase friction and resistance, affecting the clock’s performance.
Power Source Consistency: Variations in spring tension (in spring-driven clocks) or the weight’s descent rate (in weight-driven clocks) can lead to uneven timekeeping. Discuss fusee as well
Position and Leveling: A clock must be positioned on a stable, level surface for optimal operation, as tilting can affect the pendulum or balance wheel.
External Vibrations or Disturbances: Environmental factors such as vibrations, movement, or drafts can interfere with the pendulum’s motion.
Gravity and Location: The clock’s performance can vary slightly depending on altitude or local gravitational differences, as these affect the pendulum’s swing.
Understanding and addressing these factors can help maintain the clock’s accuracy and reliability.
There are thousands of clock photos on the internet, ranging from stunningly detailed images to blurry, poorly lit snapshots. As an amateur photographer, I appreciate the effort some put into capturing high-quality images, but it’s frustrating to see clocks photographed in poor light, out of focus, or with distracting backgrounds.
Whether you are showcasing a clock for someone to appreciate, preparing a clock for sale, documenting the history of the clock, sharing photos with fellow clock enthusiasts, or recording for repair or maintenance, good photos ensure that the clock’s details, condition, and story are accurately captured, making it easier to appreciate, evaluate, or restore the antique or vintage clock.
A Missed Opportunity: The Case of the Blurry Bracket Clock
I once saw a bracket clock advertised online. The photos were terrible—blurry, dark, and lacking detail. However, I recognized key features and inquired. As it turned out, I was the only one interested! The clock was in excellent condition, the movement looked like it “came off the showroom floor,” and I got it for a bargain. Had the seller taken better photos, they would have likely made much more money.
Shooting a clock in a museum is a challenge because of the dependence on available light, glass enclosures, and viewer traffic
To help you avoid such mistakes, and ensure your photos truly capture the essence of an antique or vintage clock, here are my 7 essential tips for photographing clocks effectively.
1) Camera Choice: Use the Right Tool for the Job
I use a very old Olympus interchangeable lens camera with a 50mm macro lens—old but highly effective and it has excellent macro capability. Macro lenses capture intricate details like dial markings, movement engravings, and gear mechanisms.
If you don’t have a macro lens for your camera, consider:
Magnifier lenses that screw onto standard lenses
Bridge cameras, which are budget-friendly and offer good close-up shots
Telephoto or zoom lenses used at a distance for better focus
Cell phone cameras are constantly improving, and a high-quality model can capture excellent images. However, cropping and zooming can be challenging since most cell phones rely on digital zoom, which reduces image quality and detail when magnified. In addition, there is less creative control with a cell phone.
Bonus Tip:
Some newer Interchangeable lens camera models feature post-capture refocusing—a game-changer for horologists! This function focus stacks multiple images, letting you adjust the focus after taking the shot.
2) Stability: Avoid Camera Shake
If your camera allows you to adjust the shutter speed, set it to at least 1/100 of a second or faster to minimize camera shake and ensure sharper images.
Use a tripod to eliminate blurriness—especially in low-light conditions. I use a professional tripod which I acquired many years ago and it still performs well.
If you don’t have a tripod, try:
Place the camera on a steady pile of books
Place the camera on a secure surface, stage the shot, and use a remote shutter release or a timer to avoid shaking
Photo of a clock platetaken with a macro lens and tripodMuseum shot using reflected light to best advantage
3) Lighting: Good Light = Great Photos
Lighting can make or break a photo. Here’s how to get it right:
Use natural light whenever possible—place the clock near a window so the light falls on the clock for soft, even illumination.
Avoid using a harsh flash, as it can cause glare by reflecting off glass and metal surfaces. If you’re using direct lighting, make sure to position the light in a way that prevents reflections on glass surfaces.
Indirect lighting works best. If needed, use a continuous lighting kit or a softbox for diffused light.
Use reflectors (a white sheet, foam board, or even aluminum foil) to bounce light into shadows.
A close-up showing a cracked centre pinion on a Gilbert wall clockUsing natural light to illuminate a Vienna Regulator
Bonus Tip:
If your camera allows lossless shooting in Raw format, shoot in RAW to adjust color temperature in post-processing for accurate tones.
Close-up of a Vienna Regulator dial, highlighting its details– shot in RAW to adjust tone and colour temperatureA fleeting moment of sunlight reflecting off the dialof a Scottish tall case clock
4) Minimize Distractions: Keep the Focus on the Clock
A cluttered background distracts from your subject.
Remove unnecessary objects or use a neutral backdrop (a white bedsheet works in a pinch).
Consider a macro lens with a large aperture to separate the object from its background so as to blur the background and make the clock or part of a clock stand out.
Magnifying a specific sectionClose-up shots can highlight details but marks and imperfections as well
5) Cropping: Less Is More
Crop out unnecessary distractions for a cleaner, more impactful image.
Focus on key details, such as:
Clock faces
Movements
Engravings
Pendulum design
View of a movement with top plate removed– cropped
6) Composition: Guide the Viewer’s Eye
Good composition makes an image stand out. Here’s how:
A fully opened macro lens creates a blurred background, resulting in a dramatic photoA clock in a natural settingwith light coming from behind the camera
Use a large aperture (low f-stop) to create depth, drawing focus to key areas.
Follow the Rule of Thirds—place the clock slightly off-center for a balanced composition.
Experiment with angles and lighting to showcase details and avoid shooting straight-on.
Soft, indirect lighting brings out the intricate details of this bracket clock.
7) Resize for the Web
Large images slow down websites. Resize them before uploading.
some websites have image size limits. The image will not be accepted for publication otherwise.
800–1200 pixels wide or an image under 1 mb is usually ideal for online use.
Resizing also helps protect your images from unauthorized use if copyright protection is a priority.
If you are a blogger resizing your images before uploading not only improves website performance but also helps conserve storage space on your server. Large image files can take up unnecessary storage, so optimizing them ensures a smoother experience for both you and your readers.
Final Thoughts
Photographing clocks isn’t just about taking a picture—it’s about telling a story. Whether you’re selling, showcasing, or documenting a restoration, good photography enhances appreciation and value.
Do you have any photography tips of your own? Share them in the comments!
While working on my Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock recently, I made an unexpected discovery about the dial and bezel. I had always assumed the six-inch dial was original to the clock, believing it to be an anomaly or a one-off, as every other Bedford I’ve seen features a five-inch dial.
Arthur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock
Adding to the intrigue, I noticed for the first time that the dial lacks the Arthur Pequegnat inscription on the bottom part of the dial—a detail I had previously overlooked. Every Pequegnat clock I have ever seen has the manufacturer’s inscription on the dial.
No Arthur Pequegnat inscription on the dial
When I acquired the clock some years ago, the bezel door was broken, and as a result, the glass dial bezel was push-fitted into the brass bezel base. The hinge had broken off at some point in its history.
I always intended to fix it, but it just never made it to the top of my to-do list. Recently, I decided to wind the clock and check if it was still running properly. I grabbed the catch to open it, and—whoops!—the dial fell right off. Apparently, I had forgotten it was broken. Well, perhaps this was the day to fix it.
I’d always wondered why the hinge wasn’t working, and sure enough when I inspected the dial and bezel, applied a little heat to the soldered hinge, and pried it loose, I found that only half of the hinge was actually there. Classic!
What is equally amusing is that I completely restored the case four or five years ago and did not notice the replacement dial at the time.
I removed the dial bezel to repair the broken hinge, and I discovered there were no screw holes for the hinge on the clock case itself. Instead, I found three smaller diameter holes, which would have been used to mount a 5-inch dial. This confirmed that the current dial is a replacement. The original design featured an integrated assembly of the dial, bezel, hinge, and glass. This version, however, uses a two-piece dial and bezel, with a hinge that was supposed to be attached to the case.
When Parts Are Not Original
Finding non-original parts on an antique clock is not uncommon, as many clocks have undergone repairs or alterations over the years. These changes may include replacement dials, bezels, hands, or other components that were damaged or lost. While such modifications can affect the clock’s originality and value, they are often part of its history and serve as evidence of its use and care over time.
Whether or not to replace non-original parts depends on your goals as a collector. If preserving originality is a priority, you might seek authentic replacement parts from the same era. However, if functionality and appearance are your main concerns, modern replacements or custom solutions can be a practical choice.
There are times, like this one, when the discovery comes long after you’ve acquired the clock.
In any event, it is essential to document any changes for future reference, especially if the clock is sold, to ensure its history is transparent.
The Hinge Repair
Arthur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock
I plan to reuse the bezel but will attach a new hinge. I went through my collection of hinges to find the one that would be the best fit and while not exact I found one that was close.
The first step is to remove the hinge from the glass/brass bezel. It came off easily with a solder gun. I am the first to admit that my soldering skills are not top notch but I am eager to do my best.
The next step is to attach the new hinge to the dial/brass bezel. Once attached, it is test-fitted with the glass/bezel to ensure there is sufficient clearance for the door to close. In this case, there is not enough clearance, so I will need to grind down a section of the dial bezel. What initially seemed like a simple job has now become more complicated.
One of life’s unavoidable inconveniences is the act of adjusting our clocks either forward or backward in November and March. It is called Daylight Savings Time or DST. The goal of DST is to make better use of daylight by prolonging the amount of time we can spend outside during daylight hours.
The argument for the abolishment of Daylight Saving Time (DST) is gathering steam. It is cumbersome, and unnecessary in today’s world. Presently, out of 195 countries globally, approximately 70 utilize DST in some capacity, with notable exceptions being Japan, India, and China among major industrialized nations.
Around 1890, Sir Sandford Fleming, a Canadian engineer credited with significant railway projects and devising an internationally accepted standard time scheme, was instrumental in the early adoption of DST.
Currently, residents in these 70 countries, including Canada, must adhere to DST conventions, adjusting their clocks forward in spring and backward in autumn. In Canada, the saying “Spring ahead, Fall behind” helps in remembering the biannual time adjustments, occurring on the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.
For mechanical clocks with analog dials, simply advance the minute hand by one hour on March 9th. If the clock has a chime or a mechanism with a countwheel strike, allow it to operate naturally at the quarter-hour or the half-hour.
Despite its widespread usage, there’s a growing movement in Canada to abandon DST, citing its impracticality and lack of necessity.
Idioms are fixed phrases or expressions whose meanings can’t be understood just by interpreting the individual words. Their meanings are figurative and widely recognized within a particular culture or language. Every language has its own idioms. In horology, we have quite a few, and it’s fascinating how the word “clock” plays such a prominent role in our everyday language.
This is the most comprehensive list I have made so far, the 2025 edition, and I hope you enjoy some timely clock humor.
Around the clock: Describes something that is in effect, continuing, or lasting 24 hours a day: “We worked around the clock to meet the deadline.” Also, Around-the-clock service: Continuous service is provided 24 hours a day, seven days a week: “The hotel offers around-the-clock service for its guests.”
Clean someone’s clock: To defeat someone decisively: “In the final match, our team cleaned their clock.”
Beat the clock: To finish something before a deadline: “We had to beat the clock to complete the project on time.” Also, Race against the clock
Against the clock: Working on a task that has a tight deadline: “The team is racing against the clock to finish the construction before the event.”
Watch the clock: To be mindful of the time: “During the meeting, I had to watch the clock to ensure we stayed on schedule.” Also, He’s (she’s) a clock watcher
Turn back the clock: To return to a previous time or state: “Sometimes, I wish I could turn back the clock and relive those carefree days.” Also, Wind back the clock
Keep an eye on the clock: To regularly check the time: “I need to keep an eye on the clock so we don’t miss our train.”
Winding the clock: Engaging in a time-consuming or repetitive task: “His job felt like winding the clock every day, doing the same thing over and over.”
Kill time (on the clock): To pass time while waiting for something: “I often read to kill time during my lunch break on the clock.”
Work like a clock: To perform with precision and reliability: “Once the new system was in place, everything worked like a clock.”
The clock is ticking: time is running out so act fast. also, The clock is running: Which indicates that time is passing, often with a sense of urgency: “We need to make a decision; the clock is running on this project.”
Run out (or down) the clock: deliberately use as much time as possible to preserve one’s advantage: “Facinga tie, he decided to run out the clock in the final moments“
On the clock: you’re working or being paid for your time and labour: “Oh, don’t bother him, he’s on the clock”. Also, Clock in/clock out:
Your biological clock is ticking: time is running out to have a child so act now: “Lisa felt the pressure of her biological clock ticking as she approached her 30s, prompting her to seriously consider starting a family.”
Punch the clock: be employed in a conventional job with set hours: “After a long day at work, I’m always ready to punch the clock and head home for some much-needed relaxation.”
Stop the clock!: to remain young indefinitely or “As the final seconds ticked away in the championship game, the quarterback made a game-winning throw that seemed to stop the clock for a moment, sealing their victory.”
As regular as clockwork (or, running like clockwork); a machine that runs perfectly and needs no adjustment. “Every morning, without fail, Jim’s neighbour would start his day as regular as clockwork, going for a jog at exactly 6 a.m.”
Face that could stop a clock; A face that is strikingly or shockingly unattractive; or “Jane walked into the room with a look on her face that could stop a clock, causing everyone to pause and wonder what had happened.”
Five o’clock shadow; a slight growth of beard on a man’s face; “After a busy day at the office, Tom returned home with a noticeable five o’clock shadow, a sign of the long hours he had put into his work.”
Running like clockwork: Operating smoothly and efficiently, without any problems: “The event was running like clockwork, thanks to the meticulous planning.”
Two o’clock courage: The bravery or confidence that comes late at night, especially after consuming alcohol: “He had a bit of two o’clock courage and finally asked her out.”
When the clock strikes (a certain time): Referring to a specific time on the clock. For example, “We’ll meet at the cafe when the clock strikes noon.”
Ticking clock: Refers to time running out or a sense of urgency. “With the deadline fast approaching, the ticking clock made everyone nervous.”
Clock in/Clock out – Refers to recording the time someone starts or finishes work, usually with a timecard. “I forgot to clock out yesterday, so my hours were recorded wrong.”
I occasionally browse online sites in search of a rare gem—a clock with history, character, and craftsmanship that stands out from the crowd. But more often than not, my searches lead me to an assortment of clocks that are less than inspiring. The worst offenders tend to be battery-operated models that, quite frankly, have little to no horological or aesthetic value. Many of these would be better off in the recycling bin than on display in someone’s home.
One recent listing caught my attention, not because it was a hidden treasure, but because of its sheer audacity. Here’s a cropped photo from a local Facebook Marketplace ad showcasing a battery-operated grandfather clock.
The clock itself is of the mass-produced variety, designed to imitate the heritage of traditional grandfather clocks. Even if this clock were in pristine condition, it would struggle to fetch more than $20 on a good day. Battery-operated grandfather clocks simply don’t hold their value or appeal to serious or even novice collectors.
What really set this listing apart, though, was not only the condition of the clock but the asking price. The base was visibly chewed up, likely by a pet, through years of neglect or a hungry boarder. Despite this glaring flaw, the seller had boldly priced the clock at $250—an amount that would be wildly excessive even if the clock were in pristine condition. It’s hard to fathom what the seller was thinking when they set this price. Perhaps they were banking on someone mistaking it for a valuable antique, or maybe they just didn’t realize how far off the mark they were.
This listing is a prime example of a common issue in the world of online clock sales: a lack of understanding of a clock’s true value. Sellers often overestimate the worth of battery-operated clocks or even common variety mantel clocks, assuming that size, style, and age automatically equate to desirability and monetary value. Unfortunately, that’s not the case. For collectors and enthusiasts, the value of a clock lies in its craftsmanship, uniqueness, or mechanical complexity —not in its ability to mimic something it’s not.
For those new to clock collecting, this serves as an important reminder to do your homework. Before purchasing a clock, take the time to understand what you’re looking at. Is it a genuine mechanical clock with a quality movement, or is it a battery-operated replica? Is it style without the substance?
Even an educated novice clock collector would pass on this one.
While there are undoubtedly treasures to be found online, listings like this one can be frustrating and even comical. I doubt the seller will gain any traction with this ad.
I enjoy writing about the clocks in my collection, but I often receive emails from fellow clock enthusiasts who have invested time and energy into their own collection. I’m sure they would love to showcase their clocks, but lack the necessary platform.
Here is my offer to you. If you have a clock in your collection that holds a special place in your heart, I invite you to share its story. Whether it’s a valuable antique, a common vintage clock that tells a story, something quite unusual, or a challenging repair story you’d like to share, I’d love to hear what makes your clock tick.
If this is something that interests you, please send me several photos along with some notes about the piece. Feel free to include the history behind it or any interesting details that make it stand out. There’s no need to write an article yourself; you can if you like but I’d be happy to craft one for you based on the details you provide. Just send the photos (under 1 MB, in .jpg format) and any information you’d like to include, and I’ll take care of the rest! Let me know if you’d like to review a draft of the article before it goes live.
A 1 mb image like this one preserves enough detailfor display online
To protect your privacy, I’ll use only the first and last letters of your name along with your country of residence—excluding specific locations. I’m excited to feature your cherished clock(s)! Please note that I have several articles in the queue, so it may take some time before yours appears.
By submitting your photos, you grant me permission to publish them along with your story on the blog.
I have a collection of 11 Arthur Pequegnat clocks, including three beautiful wall clocks which you can view on this 5-minute YouTube video.
I have written extensively about the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company, but to summarize: the company was founded in Berlin, Ontario (renamed Kitchener in 1917) in 1904 and produced its final clock in 1941.
As regular readers know, I have been a passionate collector for 15 years, I take great joy in repairing and restoring old clocks. My collection has grown to 85 unique timepieces, each with its own story.
Background music and titles are provided only. If you have any questions about my Pequegnat collection or a specific clock, feel free to leave a comment.
For more about my journey and insights into clock collecting, explore my other blog articles.
It’s the little things that count in life. While this expression holds true in many aspects of our lives, it is equally true when it comes to antique and vintage clock repair.
This article highlights tools that can be invaluable for clock repair. Though not strictly essential, once you start using them, you’ll likely wonder how you ever managed without them. Additionally, these tools are relatively inexpensive and even more affordable on the used market.
Here is a list in no order of importance. Some of these items you will no doubt find more useful than others.
Magnetic flashlights
These tools are very handy for probing the dark corners of a clock case or troubleshooting the internals of a movement. They simply magnetically attach to the shaft of a screwdriver. The only drawback is the odd-sized batteries, which can sometimes be difficult to find.
The one on the left has two LED lights and turns on automatically when attached, meaning the battery drains if you forget to remove it. The one on the right, with one LED, has a push-button on/off switch. I like the one on the right.
This one is interesting because it features a telescoping magnet attachment, which is useful for illuminating an area when trying to retrieve a steel screw in a clock case, for example. It also uses readily available CR2025 button batteries.
Pivot Locator
I’ve seen a few different designs for pivot locators, but I find this one to be excellent for nudging and pulling those tiny pivots into place. If you’ve ever broken a pivot while reassembling a movement, you know how challenging it can be to fit a new pivot into an arbour. This little tool will avoid that agony.
And a closer view.
Movement Holder
I also have a set of four legs, otherwise called clamp assembly supports, that screw into the bottom plate when working on a movement, but I find they mar the corners of the movement and leave unsightly marks. A piece of 4-inch pipe cut from a plastic water or sewage pipe works perfectly.
Accessory Containers
A dollar store is a great place to find all sorts of practical containers that are both useful and very affordable. This one, with separate compartments, is ideal for storing an assortment of different-sized screws.
For storing brass and steel clock pins a camera filter container is perfect.
For storing all kinds of tiny items these containers can be purchased for a dollar or so per dozen.
Crucial for separating parts when disassembling a movement, they are also useful for preventing parts from going astray. Additionally, they are stackable and come in various sizes with the smallest size shown below.
Punch
I certainly do not advocate punching a clock plate to close a pivot hole, but a punch is useful for many other tasks. such as marking a spot for drilling, setting a reference point, or lightly shaping the edges of a part.
Precision Screwdrivers
They come in a multitude of sizes and head types, making them very useful for working with small screws on clock movements.
Slotted Screw Holding Driver
It’s called a driver, but its real purpose is to guide the screw into place.
I can’t tell you how many times I’ve dropped a screw into a case and spent time trying to fish it out while reinstalling a movement.
When I saw these, it felt like a miracle. While they can’t drive the screw all the way in, they allow you to turn it a couple of times, making it ready for a screwdriver to finish the job.
Compact tools and accessories may not be essential for clock repair, but they certainly make the work much easier and more efficient, offering valuable benefits. These tools are not only affordable but most are readily available, making them accessible for anyone looking to enhance their clock repair experience.
Whether you’re a seasoned professional or a hobbyist, investing in these practical, easy-to-find tools can make your work much less frustrating, helping you achieve better results with greater ease and fewer obstacles.
The Seth Thomas Type 89 movement is a robust and well-regarded mechanical clock movement widely used in many of Seth Thomas’ mantel and shelf clocks from the early 20th century to 1938.
The movement was introduced in 1900 and became one of Seth Thomas’ most popular and enduring movements.
There are several variants (89A, 89C, 89D, etc.), each tailored to specific clock models. The differences often involve small design adjustments like the escapement, strike train, or gearing. For example, some had solid back plates, some cut out, and some had a passing bell on the half-hour.
All Type 89 movements are time and strike and eight-day running and most use a strip pallet deadbeat escapement or according to Seth Thomas’s literature a “half deadbeat” escapement which is reliable and relatively easy to service. The most striking difference between the half-deadbeat and a recoil escapement is that the escape wheel teeth slant forward into the direction of rotation. Advantages: it was cheap to produce and still has fairly decent time-keeping ability.This video (no sound) shows the action of the escapement.
I consulted a chart (below) describing all the variations of the 89 and from what I can deduce this one is a type 89C movement.
Two Important strike-side Issues
The movement was in good condition overall. It was cleaned up and three new bushings were installed. The escape wheel bushings front and back were the most worn. The next was the fourth wheel front plate, adjacent to the escape wheel.
Testing the depthing of the wheels
One minor hiccup when reassembling was dealing with a broken helper spring on the lifting lever. Shortening the spring by taking one coil off the arbour did not pose any running issues.
Taken directly from the case on the day of purchase
However, once the cleaning and wear issues were addressed two other problems remained. The strike would not go into warning and the hammer did not move when the strike side was pushed to run.
It seems that whoever previously worked on it did not properly set up the strike side, likely neglecting to position the stop wheel correctly to ensure the strike mechanism would go into warning. Warning refers to a brief preparatory phase in the strike mechanism. This occurs just before the clock strikes. When the time approaches a strike point (such as the hour or half-hour), the movement enters the warning phase to prepare for the strike sequence. The warning phase is essential for ensuring the clock strikes consistently and on time. Improper setup of the warning phase can lead to the strike train failing to run.
While reassembling the movement, position the paddle lever in one of the indents on the cam while ensuring the paddle itself rests in a deep slot of the count wheel. The paddle should be straight into the deep slot without touching either side and pointed directly at the main wheel arbour.
The warning wheel can be adjusted after reassembly. Once all the wheels and levers are in their respective locations, carefully separate the plates slightly at the flywheel corner, ensuring no other components shift out of place. Then, when the pivot is out of its hole and the lantern pinion is disengaged from the adjacent gear, rotate the stop wheel until its pin meets the stop lever. If the levers are correctly positioned, the movement will enter the warning phase.
The stop wheel is at the upper right,with the pin
The second issue involved the hammer strike. A previous repairer had over-bent the strike rod, creating alignment problems. On the opposite side of the strike cam wheel are two striking pins, which the strike rod must reach to activate the hammer and sound the coiled gong. In this case, the rod had been positioned too close to the center, preventing it from contacting the strike pins. After some trial and error and careful bending of the strike rod, the movement is now properly aligned and able to sound the strike.
The final step is thorough testing. Placed on the test stand, the movement will be carefully monitored over the next several days to ensure everything functions smoothly and reliably.
A Special Note
I would also like to recognize Saint Valentine’s Day (February 14th) and I hope that everyone takes the time to cherish those around them, whether through a kind word, thoughtful gesture, or simply appreciating the moments that make life special. Happy Valentine’s Day!
I have decided to revisit and revamp my most popular blog posts to breathe new life into them, expand my blog’s reach, and keep my content fresh and engaging for loyal readers and new visitors. This will allow me to refine my writing, share updated insights, and ensure these and all posts continue to resonate while meeting today’s standards.
Updating Information
Some details in older posts are outdated, particularly when referencing market trends, clock values, or new information historical or otherwise, obtained during my research. As a seasoned clock collector and writer, updating posts with the latest insights solidifies my position as a trusted expert in the field.
My office and where I compose my articles
Ensuring the information is accurate and relevant enhances the credibility of my blog and keeps it useful for readers. It is my hope that readers will see my blog as a go-to source for accurate and up-to-date information.
Improving Readability
Over time, my writing style and formatting preferences have evolved significantly. By revisiting these posts, I can enhance their flow and structure, ensuring they’re more engaging and easier to read. Updating them with clearer formatting and concise language will help create a smoother, more enjoyable experience for today’s readers, while also making the articles more visually appealing and accessible.
Aligning with Current Expertise
Over the years, my knowledge about clocks and horology has grown significantly. Revisiting old posts gives me a chance to add fresh insights or correct earlier misconceptions.
My basement workshop
Encouraging Engagement
Updating a popular post serves a dual purpose: it reminds long-time readers of some of my best content, and it also helps attract new visitors. Bringing in new readers is vital for the growth and sustainability of my blog. It not only expands my audience but also fosters a community of enthusiasts who share an interest in clock collecting and restoration.
Fresh perspectives from new readers can spark engaging discussions, inspire future posts, and ensure my content continues to reach a wider and more diverse audience.
Personal Growth
Over the past eight years, my writing has undergone significant growth, allowing me to showcase my skills in clock restoration and repair. As I’ve continued to evolve as a writer, I’ve become more focused on refining the structure of my articles to not only enhance their value but also ensure they serve as lasting references for my audience. This shift has led me to create more organized, accessible content that readers can return to over time.
I’ve also found that incorporating more photos, before-and-after restoration images, and step-by-step visual guides enriches the written content, offering readers a more hands-on and immersive experience. This evolution in my approach reflects my ongoing commitment to providing meaningful, well-rounded resources.
Strengthening the backboard on a Scottish Tall Case clock
Streamlining for New Audiences
Adjusting the tone and content of my posts to target newer clock enthusiasts helps create a welcoming space for those just beginning their journey into clock collecting and restoration. By breaking down complex concepts, avoiding overly technical jargon when possible, and focusing on practical, accessible advice, I can make the hobby feel more approachable.
This shift not only broadens the appeal of my blog but also contributes to fostering a new generation of collectors who might otherwise feel intimidated. Additionally, beginner-friendly content can encourage curiosity and engagement, as newer enthusiasts are often eager to learn and ask questions.
Repairing a wall clock crown mount
Balancing this approach with content that still satisfies more experienced readers ensures my blog remains a valuable resource for everyone, no matter where they are in their journey. At the end of the day, bringing new enthusiasts into the fold is one of my major objectives.
Most Popular Blogs Posts | The Top Ten
Most of the following articles were written in the early days of my blogging journey, during a period when I was still trying to identify and connect with my audience. While I’m not entirely sure why some of these posts have gained such popularity, it’s clear that they’ve sparked more interest than I originally anticipated. That being said, my ten most popular posts of all time are as follows.
Please feel free to browse the articles, and if you have any insights on the information presented or suggestions for improvements, I would love to hear them.
And finally, search engines favor fresh, updated content. Rewriting and optimizing posts can improve rankings and attract new readers who are searching for information on antique and vintage clocks.
Buying your first clock is an exciting journey, but it can also feel a bit daunting. In this article, I’ll share some practical tips and advice to help you choose your first clock and discuss the various types of clocks to consider.
One of the goals of this blog is to introduce antique and vintage clocks to younger generations and inspire an appreciation for these remarkable mechanical devices from the past. In today’s modern age of a throw-away culture, how many items can you think of that still function flawlessly after more than a century? It is a short list indeed!
Before we get started, let me clarify two key assumptions. First, I’m assuming you’re not purchasing your first clock with the goal of turning a profit. If profit is your motive I won’t be much help to you. Having collected clocks for many years, I can tell you that buying and selling clocks rarely yields significant financial returns. Of course, there are always exceptions.
Second, this guide focuses on mechanical clocks rather than electric, quartz, or electro-mechanical models. While some of the latter are certainly attractive, there are other resources available for learning more about these types of clocks.
An antique mechanical clock operates through a system of metal gears and levers, powered by weights or springs, wound manually, and displays the time. These clocks were essential for daily life in the past, providing reliable timekeeping that helped people manage their routines, coordinate activities, and regulate work, particularly before the advent of modern electrical or digital timekeeping devices.
Let’s explore why you would want an antique or vintage clock.
Choosing an Antique or Vintage Clock
Is the clock for decoration, an expression of your new interest in horology, or are you starting a collection? Your motivation for acquiring your first clock is important, as it involves an investment of your money.
Establishing a budget is essential to guide your decision. If your primary goal is to use the clock as a decorative piece, the condition of the case may take priority, and whether the movement works might not be a concern. However, if you want a functional clock and the one you choose is not in working condition, you’ll need to account for potential repair or restoration costs in your budget.
When considering the clock’s condition, it’s important to assess whether it’s running or in need of repair. A case that shows significant wear often indicates that the movement may also be in poor condition. Some damage can be repaired, but other types of damage may be expensive to fix, and if the clock was inexpensive to begin with, the cost of repairs may outweigh the value. An example of this is pieces of veneer missing on a clock. While small imperfections may be acceptable, large areas of missing veneer can significantly affect the clock’s appearance. Replacing large sections of veneer should be left to a professional restorer.
The case requires new sections of veneer
Clocks with an interesting provenance may not only be more desirable to collectors but can also serve as fascinating conversation starters. Understanding who made the clock and where it was produced is crucial. A clock from a renowned manufacturer or region known for quality craftsmanship can be more valuable.
A clock with a well-documented ownership history, especially if it has been in the hands of notable individuals or has an intriguing backstory, can make it more desirable. If it was owned by a historical figure or used in a significant event, this can greatly enhance its appeal.
Look for original labels, receipts, or certificates of authenticity that confirm the clock’s origin, age, and maker.
If the clock has thorough documentation, be prepared to pay a premium price. Look for a clock with a known history of quality repairs or restorations, especially if these were done by reputable professionals.
The location and placement of the clock can influence your choice of type and size. For example, in a 600-square-foot apartment, a grandfather clock might not be the best option. A small mantel or novelty clock can be placed almost anywhere, while wall clocks don’t take up valuable floor or shelf space.
Antique and vintage mechanical clocks require periodic care and upkeep because their components are subject to wear and aging over time. The materials used in older clocks, such as metal gears, springs, and wood, can degrade or become less effective without regular maintenance. This should be taken into account when making your decision.
An emotional connection is important. You should select a clock that you genuinely connect with, as it will become a lasting part of your environment. Purchasing a clock simply because it’s inexpensive, but not to your taste, may lead to regret.
And finally, consider starting with a straightforward, reliable clock before diving into more complex or high-maintenance pieces.
Here are the Types of Clocks to Considerand Why
Mantel Clocks are compact clocks designed to sit on a mantelpiece or shelf. They often feature a strike while some might also feature a chiming mechanism such as Westminster chimes.
A mantel clock is a good entry point for beginners due to its manageable size and the many different styles and designs. In North America, popular examples come from manufacturers such as Seth Thomas, Ingraham, New Haven, Gilbert, and Pequegnat.
Wall Clocks are designed to hang on walls, ranging from simple schoolhouse styles to ornate regulator clocks. These clocks are ideal for those with limited floor space and looking for a functional piece. Look for clocks that are complete, with no missing parts, and inspect hands, glass, and the movement for any problems.
Grandfather Clocks otherwise known as Longcase Clocks, Tall Case Clocks, or Hall Clocks are tall, freestanding clocks often over six feet tall, with pendulums, often featuring intricate mechanisms and chimes. These clocks are statement pieces suitable for those with ample space.
Maintenance can be more demanding, and many of these clocks especially from the 1980s and 1990s have movements that are near the end of or at the end of their service life. A gently used tall case clock can provide many more years of service. While these clocks are undeniably charming, their sound might be a bit too loud for some individuals.
Cuckoo Clocks are typically from Germany, these whimsical clocks are known for their animated cuckoo bird and decorative carvings. These clocks are great for a touch of old country charm and fun, often appealing to families. All inexpensive ones require winding once per day and the cuckoo sound can be annoying for some. Look for an eight-day model instead.
Cuckoo clock
Ogee Clocks are classic 19th-century weight-driven clocks with a simple yet elegant design. They are an affordable entry into antique clocks and often come with a rich history. Ensure the glass and reverse-painted artwork are intact, as these are defining features. Shelf space is required as these clocks are not meant to be hung.
Most are 30-hour clocks that require winding once per day which some might regard as an annoyance if the intent is to have them running daily. Eight-day clocks are preferable since they require winding once per week. For a shelf clock, they are quite large and space could be a factor to consider.
Shelf Clocks are a broader category encompassing small to medium-sized clocks that fit on shelves or desks. They are practical and versatile, with a range of styles to suit different tastes.
Fancy clocks with intricate visible designs display beautifully and can serve purely decorative purposes.
HAC mantel clock
Anniversary Clocks feature mechanisms that can run a year or more, have glass domes, and feature a rotating pendulum. They make a striking display and serve as fascinating conversation pieces. Historically, they were often presented as wedding gifts.
Novelty Clocks are clocks with unique designs, animations, or themes. They add personality and character to any room often sparking conversations. They can be as small as an alarm clock and can be placed just about anywhere in a room.
Buying your first clock is a rewarding experience that combines history, craftsmanship, and personal taste. By considering factors such as your budget, the clock’s condition, provenance, and placement, you can make an informed decision and choose a piece that brings lasting enjoyment.
Remember to select a clock that resonates with you personally, as it will become a cherished part of your space. With thoughtful planning and care, your first clock can be the start of a lifelong appreciation for the art and beauty of horology.
When selling an antique clock, proper preparation can make all the difference in attracting buyers and securing a fair price. Whether you’re parting with a cherished antique or vintage clock from a collection or selling one inherited from a loved one, taking the right steps ensures a smooth transaction.
Selling in lots might attract more buyers
In this article, I’ll use a real inquiry I received—where a clock owner sought guidance on selling a collection after the passing of a loved one—to walk you through the process. From assessing a clock’s condition and researching its value to choosing the best platform for the sale, this guide will help you make informed decisions and achieve the best possible outcome.
SN Writes
I have an odd question. I have several antique clocks that I need to sell. Can you give me insight on how to go about this? My husband passed away and collected them. I have funeral and taxes to pay and need to sell them. Thank you in advance for your help.
(I formatted my reply into bullet points for this blog post to make the information clearer and easier to follow for the reader.)
Light dusting is fine, but avoid over-cleaning or restoring
My Reply
I’m very sorry for your loss. Selling your husband’s clock collection can be overwhelming, but there are several ways to approach it to ensure you get a fair price:
Online Marketplaces:eBay reaches a global audience but involves fees and shipping. Etsy is good for decorative or unique clocks. Provide clear photos, detailed descriptions, and any history or provenance.
Local Auctions & Antique Dealers: Auction houses specializing in antiques attract serious collectors. Antique shops and dealers may buy outright, though often at a lower price for resale. Some shops also offer consignment.
Collector Communities: Facebook groups, clock forums, and local clock clubs can connect you with enthusiasts willing to pay fair prices.
Estate Sales & Local Listings: If selling multiple items, an estate sale might be an efficient option. Platforms like Craigslist, Kijiji, and Facebook Marketplace can also attract local buyers. Always meet in a safe location.
Appraisals & Pricing: Consider having the clocks appraised to understand their value. Research similar listings to set realistic prices.
Preparing to Sell:
Handle with Care: Light dusting is fine, but avoid over-cleaning or restoring, as collectors prefer originality.
Highlight Unique Features: Mention rare makers, historical significance, and craftsmanship.
Sell Individually or in Lots: Valuable clocks might fetch better prices when sold separately, while more common ones may do better in groups.
I went on to say that if SN wanted help with pricing, finding an appraiser, or choosing the best selling method for specific clocks, to reach out to me.
It’s been about two years since I last worked on a Mauthe time and strike movement. While Mauthe clocks are fairly common, my attention has been directed toward other types of clocks and clock projects in recent years.
This is the first installment of a two-part series, offering initial impressions and background history of the clock, as well as outlining the plan for servicing the movement and addressing minor issues with the case.
This isn’t just any Mauthe box clock—it carries a significant family history. It was given to my father-in-law in the 1970s by his secretary, whose father originally owned it. I can still vividly recall the warm, familiar sound of its two-toned strike echoing through my in-laws’ home on Rupert Street in Amherst, Nova Scotia. Those gentle tones bring back fond memories of family gatherings at special times of the year. The house was eventually sold in 1996.
The house on Rupert; the original owners were the Tennant family
Both the clock movement and the case are in surprisingly good condition, especially considering my father-in-law’s knack for being a bit rough around the edges and heavy-handed regarding repairs. His endearing awkwardness somehow spared this clock, which has stood the test of time remarkably well. It’s clear he went the extra mile with this clock because, upon disassembling the movement, I discovered evidence of servicing by a professional clock specialist.
German “box” clock by Mauthe
Although the clock was carefully stored it has not run in over 25 years. It is long overdue for a cleaning.
According to several online databases, the design of the trademark stamp suggests it was used by Mauthe after 1946. This places the clock’s production in the late 1940s to early 1950s.
Condition of the movement
To remove the movement from its case, start by unhooking the pendulum. Next, loosen the two screws securing the seatboard. Once these screws are released, the movement can slide out from the front. Detach the seatboard by unscrewing the two thumbscrews located on underneath and either side of the seatboard. Additionally, a unique pair of angled pieces that also hold the movement in place, fastened with wood screws, must also be removed. This setup may seem a bit excessive, but it provides a secure and stable mounting for the movement.
After removing the seatboard, I examined the movement and was struck by how clean it remained despite years in storage. The pivots were completely dry, so I applied a small amount of oil to test its functionality—and it ran smoothly. A little oil is no substitute for a cleaning and I proceeded with disassembling the movement by first releasing the power of the mainsprings.
I’ll conclude here for now. Join me in my next article as I disassemble the movement, discuss what needs attention, and explore some of the issues and challenges associated with it as well as addressing minor issues with the clock case.
The maker of the movement is HAU or HAC. The familiar cross arrows trademark of the maker is stamped on the movement, in the middle of the backplate.
HAC was formed in Germany in 1873 by Paul Landenberger and Phillipp Lang and was originally called Landenberger & Lang Uhrenfabrik. The company changed its name to Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik (HAU)/Hamburg American Clock Company (HAC) in 1883. The famous crossed-arrows became their trademark in 1892. In 1926 the company went into a cooperative with Junghans and in 1930 they finally merged with Junghans.
HAC trademark
HAC/HAU clocks can be difficult to date prior to Junghans acquisition of HAC/HAU in 1930. Once Junghans and HAC began their collaboration in 1926 some of the movements were date coded.
Now on to the adjustment of the movement that is the subject of this article.
Strike Adjustment Required
Earlier in the fall this time and strike mantel clock was serviced. During the servicing six new bushings were installed, all components were cleaned, the mainsprings serviced and the clock reassembled and tested.
The movement has been cleaned and serviced
However, during testing, the movement did not strike correctly. While there can be several causes, the most common of which is a misalignment of the hammer tail with the star points on the star wheel. This issue frequently arises during the reassembly of this type of clock movement.
Taking the time to carefully double-check the placement of parts, and ensure everything is in its correct place will help ensure the reassembly is smooth and successful. Once the wheels are in place there is only one multi-arm ever that resides between the plates. Position it such that the long arm rests in one of the deep slots of the count wheel while a short arm is placed in the cut-out of the cam wheel.
My usual practice is to position all the wheels and the lever(s) on the plate that has the movement posts, first. Once the wheels are correctly located, I lower the front plate onto the back plate. I secure two nuts to the mainspring end which prevents the movement plates from moving around as I position the upper wheels and their pivots in the train.
Setting up the strike side can be tricky. The wheels and levers must be set up correctly or the strike will not function. For instance, the width of the slots on the count wheel tells us that there is no “passing strike” on this movement. In some count wheel movements, for example, in many American-made movements, the half-hour is actuated by a cam on the centre arbour.
The pin-wheel, which is uppermost and one wheel removed from the fly on the strike side, is placed in approximately the 10 to 12 o’clock position, called the “warning” position. This allows for a half-turn to set up the strike.
To make the adjustment of the star wheel there is no need to completely disassemble the movement. Loosen the nuts on the strike side and gently lift the plate taking care not to dislodge the wheels on the time side. Disengage the star wheel from the adjacent wheel and rotate it slightly so that the hammer tail is in the middle of two of the star tips.
Tail and star point (arrows), in this photo, the tail is almost resting on the star point which is not the optimal position
The adjustment was made. On the test stand, the hammer tail isn’t perfectly centered between two of the star points, but it should function adequately.
If the hammer tail is in contact with the star point at the end of the strike sequence, it will hold in the raised position and the strike may not function at all from that point onward. While you are making this adjustment, ensure that the strike lever spring (which is a straight wire) is on the outside of the strike arbour.
In Sum
Adjusting the strike mechanism on an HAC movement requires patience, precision, and attention to detail. By carefully aligning the hammer paddle, star wheel, and other components, you can restore the clock’s striking functionality and ensure reliable performance. While challenges such as this are common when reassembling these movements, a systematic approach and an understanding of the mechanism’s function can make the process smoother.
Have you ever wondered where the terms “half past the hour,” “a quarter past,” and “a quarter to the hour” originate from? At one time these terms were practical and necessary for understanding time when precise minute readings were unavailable.
Stepping Back In Time
The practice of dividing an hour into quarters comes from the way timekeeping developed in medieval Europe. The concept of dividing an hour into halves and quarters predates mechanical clocks and can be observed in the use of sundials.
The shadow’s movement was tracked relative to hour lines and intermediate markings, reinforcing the habit of describing time in fractions of an hour.
Mechanical clocks, first appearing in the 13th century, used gears to divide the hour into equal parts: halves and quarters. Early tower clocks for example often lacked dials entirely. Since most people could not read a clock face, bells were a way of indicating the time.
The addition of dials in the 14th and 15th centuries made it possible for people to see the time visually, along with the auditory cues of the bells.
The Salisbury Cathedral tower clock is without a dial face(Photo by Phil Ledwith on Pexels.com)
Clocks with a Single Hand
Early mechanical clocks, which emerged in the late Middle Ages (around the 13th and 14th centuries), typically had only an hour hand. Minute hands were not introduced until the 16th century, and even then, they weren’t common until the 18th century.
The origins of phrases like “half past,” “quarter past,” and “quarter to” are connected to the period when early clocks had only one hand—the hour hand. These terms were practical and necessary for understanding time when precise minute readings were unavailable.
Half past two(taken at the NAWCC clock museum in Columbia, Penn)
These one-handed clocks divided the clock face into 12 hours, with each hour subdivided into 4 quarters. The divisions on the dial were marked to indicate these fractions, making it possible to estimate time to the nearest quarter-hour.
Standardized Terms
Terms became standardized as clocks became widespread and people needed a common language to express specific points in time.
The term “quarter” derives from the Latin quartus, meaning “fourth,” reflecting the division of an hour into four 15-minute segments.
“Half past” signifies that half of the current hour has passed. This phrasing likely became popular in English because it is concise and intuitive. “Quarter past” means 15 minutes past the hour, while “quarter to” indicates 15 minutes remaining until the next hour. This usage reflects a practical way of describing time, based on the idea of dividing the hour into quarters.
Reading Time with One Hand
Since these clocks could only approximate time, people described it in terms of the fractions visible on the clock face. Some common phrasings including some mentioned above are:
“Half past” meant the hour hand was halfway between two hour marks.
“Quarter to” referred to the hour hand being three-fourths of the way toward the next hour.
It’s six, without the o’clock
It’s half-five, referring to 5:30 for example
“Quarter past” indicated the hour hand had moved one-fourth of the way between two hour marks.
Some cultures use after rather than past, or to rather than till
Non-specific times such as around five or around 11
Or specifically, it’s exactly eight
Four of the clock, or 4 o’clock (taken at the NAWCC clock museum in Columbia, Penn)
Cultural ImpactThen and Now
This method of time-telling became ingrained in the language long before the widespread use of minute hands. Even after clocks with two hands became standard, the traditional phrases persisted because they were convenient and widely understood.
But today the phrases are beginning to leave our vocabulary.
Quarter to ten(taken at the American Watch and Clock Museum in Bristol Conn.)
These expressions seem to be fading from modern use reflecting changes in how we interact with time and the use of precise numbers when we communicate. As analog clocks become less prevalent in homes, schools, and workplaces, fewer people are exposed to the visual representation of quarters and halves on a clock face.
Despite this decline, these phrases still hold cultural and historical significance and are likely to persist in certain contexts, such as storytelling, or traditions involving analog clocks.
Indeed, many young people today struggle to read an analog clock or have difficulty understanding the meaning of the hands.
While writing this article, my wife asked me for the time. ‘It’s 5:47,’ I replied.
Regularly dusting a clock was once a key part of the cleaning routine in days gone by. The clock was an important feature in the home, and maintaining its appearance was a significant part of regular housekeeping. It often held a place of pride in the household.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator
While modern homes may generate less dust than those of the past, occasional dusting is still necessary to keep items clean.
Caring for your clock’s case is an essential part of maintaining its overall condition and preserving its appearance. Caring for your clock’s case is crucial because it helps maintain its visual appeal. The case protects the movement from dust, dirt, moisture, and physical damage. Over time, neglecting the case can lead to fading, cracking, or warping of the wood, which may affect the clock’s value. Regular cleaning, polishing, and protection from environmental factors such as sunlight and humidity can extend the life of the clock and preserve its historical and collectible value.
Your Cleaning Routine
Regular dusting is crucial, and using a soft, dry microfiber cloth is recommended to gently remove dust. Dust buildup can damage finishes over time, so it makes sense to make cleaning a regular practice.
Avoid using paper towels or rough cloths that may scratch the surface. Harsh chemicals and abrasive cleaners should also be avoided, as they can damage the finish. If necessary, a mild soap solution with water can be used, but always test it in an inconspicuous area first.
For wooden clock cases, use a high-quality furniture polish suitable for the wood type, such as wax or cream polish. Minwax Paste Finishing Wax works very well and ensures a durable long-lasting finish. Apply a small amount to a soft cloth and always rub in the direction of the grain. Be cautious not to over-polish, as it can build up residue.
If your clock has a glass door or side panels, clean it with a glass cleaner or a vinegar-water solution, spraying it on a soft cloth to avoid streaks, scratches, or spillover. Care should be taken not to get cleaner on the wood.
Additionally, protect the clock’s finish by keeping it out of direct sunlight, as prolonged exposure can cause fading or cracking. Avoid placing it near heat sources such as a register or heating vent or in overly humid areas.
Periodic servicing is important to ensure the clock case retains its original beauty, especially if the clock is older or of significant value. Over time, even with careful use, wood can become dry or scratched, finishes may dull, and joints may weaken. Regular cleaning, conditioning, and minor repairs can prevent these issues and help the case maintain its luster.
Call in a Professional, Perhaps
For higher-value or antique clocks, professional restoration might be necessary. This could involve refinishing the case, repairing cracks or veneer, and restoring or replacing any intricate details that might have worn over time. Professional restorers have the expertise and access to the right materials to ensure that the case is repaired or restored while maintaining its historical integrity. Proper restoration not only enhances the appearance but can also increase the clock’s market value by preserving its authenticity.
All the Metal Parts
When it comes to caring for metal parts in clocks, there are two main schools of thought.
One approach involves minimizing contact with oils and polishes, particularly on brass components. The idea behind this method is that applying oils or polishes can attract dust and grime, which could cause damage or wear over time. Additionally, frequent polishing of brass parts might cause the metal to lose its patina, which many collectors see as an important part of the clock’s character. In this approach, cleaning is done only when absolutely necessary, with a focus on preserving the natural finish of the metal.
The other school of thought advocates for the regular application of oils and polishes. A light coat of oil or polish helps protect metal parts, such as brass, from tarnishing and corrosion. This approach maintains the clock’s aesthetic appeal by preventing oxidation and keeping the metal parts shiny. Some prefer to polish brass regularly to maintain its lustrous appearance and use specialized oils to lubricate moving parts, ensuring smooth operation and reducing friction within the mechanism.
It’s Your Decision
Proper care and maintenance of your clock case are essential for preserving its beauty and functionality. Regular dusting, gentle cleaning, and using the right products can prevent damage to both the wood and metal components. Whether you prefer a more natural approach to preserving the patina or choose to regularly polish the wood and the metal parts, it’s important to prioritize the long-term health of your clock.
By following these simple guidelines, you can ensure that your clock continues to be a prized feature in your home for years to come, maintaining its historical charm and operational integrity.
After working on the dial of a Pequegnat Jewel mantel clock, I was very pleased with the results of the repaint. While the detailing may not withstand close scrutiny, the clock looks excellent from a comfortable distance.
When I brought the clock home, it appeared that a previous owner, frustrated by the loss of some or most of the paint on the dial, chose not to source a replacement but instead stripped the paint entirely, leaving only the numerals.
Photo taken on the day the clock was purchased
Someone had gone to great lengths to meticulously scrape away all the paint, but the result is far from appealing.
Something Still Troubled Me
I decided to address the missing paint on the dial by repainting it and touching up the numerals, and the results met my expectations.
After repainting the dial and retouching the numerals
It continued to bother me that the glass surround had a brassy gold appearance, while the dial bezel exhibited a bronze-like tone.
Although brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, with variations in composition potentially explaining this difference, I suspect that’s not the case here.
Instead, I believe the glass surround was originally painted gold, as small flakes of paint came off while I was cleaning it with a toothpick and cloth. Should I leave it as-is or match the outer bezel to the inner one? I’d have to think about it—a two-toned dial looked odd.
A Decision Was Made
Since the dial and surround had already been altered, I decided to take it a step further and repaint the inner bezel as well. With the right shade of acrylic paint on hand, I went ahead and tackled the task.
Some might argue that I went too far with the repainted dial and bezel, believing that any changes made to the clock over time are part of its history. However, I don’t share that perspective. To me, a poor repair from the past justifies taking steps to set things right. Leaving a damaged dial on a clock case that is otherwise in near-perfect condition would be a shame.
From a different angle
I have no regrets about my decision—if anything, I’ve now contributed to its history.
By correcting such mistakes, I believe I honour the intent and skill of the original maker. Restoring a clock to a condition closer to its authentic appearance helps preserve its aesthetic value for future generations.
As we enter a new year it is time to look back on the adventures and milestones I’ve experienced in the world of antique and vintage clock collecting and repair in the past year. 2024 has been one of discovery, growth, and deepening appreciation for the art of horology.
Over the past year, I have been shifting the focus of my collection. While I have acquired clocks from various countries, my interest has increasingly centered on Canadian clocks and those with a Canadian connection. This focus is evident in my acquisitions of the following clocks this year.
Adding to the Collection
My collection of Arthur Pequegnat clocks grew significantly this year with the addition of some standout pieces.
Arthur Pequegnat Hamilton Tall
The Dandyand Hamilton Tallmodels were particular highlights, each offering unique insights into the craftsmanship and history of the Pequegnat Clock Company.
Arthur Pequegnat Dandy
I also came across a rare find — a 30-hour Ogee clock by the Canada Clock Co., a true testament to Canadian clockmaking heritage. An interesting feature of this clock is the faux grain finish on the wood case, which was evidently a cost-saving measure by the company to make their prices competitive with American manufacturers at the time.
Canada Clock Co. Ogee
One of my most memorable acquisitions was an Arthur Pequegnat Simcoeclock (not pictured), purchased in 2018 from a shop in Victoria, British Columbia, for close to $200. This year, I added the Jewelmodel to my collection after spotting it on a high shelf at a local antique shop. Its price was surprisingly modest, coming in at less than a quarter the cost of the Simcoe making the find all the more satisfying. The addition of legs and side handles distinguishes it from the Simcoe.
Arthur Pequegnat Jewel
My most interesting acquisition was not a Canadian clock but a German-made Kienzle wall clock, which was given to me by a gentleman in Ontario (Canada).
Kienzle time and strike wall clock
The clock had been passed down from his grandfather, and the seller hoped to find someone who would truly appreciate it. He contacted me for advice and asked about its value. I offered some insights and mentioned that if he was unable to sell it, I would be happy to take it off his hands. Honestly, I never expected to hear back from him after that.
Several months later, he reached out to tell me that he would be gifting it to me. We arranged a hand-off in a small village in Quebec, and it has since become part of my collection. It is a handsome clock with a resonant two-tone strike that is one of the most “complete” clocks in my collection (for more on this clock go here).
Repairing and Restoring
In 2024, I spent less time repairing and servicing clock movements, instead focusing on my blog, researching clocks and clock companies and their histories, and maintaining my collection.
On the repair front, I tackled several challenging yet rewarding projects, including a Seth Thomas Type 89 time and strike and a HAC/HAU time and strike movement. These were standard servicing tasks that presented minimal issues.
Generally, my servicing philosophy is to avoid replacing original components as much as possible but I always test and ensure they meet the clock’s functional requirements. This year reinforced my belief that preserving original parts is vital to maintaining a clock’s authenticity.
HAC (Hamburg American Clock Co.) movement with plate removed
Among the repairs waiting their turn is the Danby model by Arthur Pequegnat which has been placed on the back burner due to other priorities. With three other movements to finish first, the servicing of those clocks plus the Danby will be projects for later in 2025.
Mauthe wall clock
Another project I’ll be tackling in 2025 is a family clock. This past year, I received my father-in-law’s clock for repair. It was passed down to my wife’s brother and has been out of service for over 25 years. I plan to return it fully serviced, and I hope that this stately Mauthe wall clock will take a prominent place in my brother-in-law’s home as a sentimental reminder of my wife’s father.
Sharing the Passion
This year celebrates seven years of blogging about clock collecting, repairs, and restoration. My blog has become a platform to share knowledge and stories, blending my love of writing, photography, and horology. Though I took a break for the holiday season, I look forward to returning this year with fresh content and inspiration.
One of the goals of this blog is to introduce antique and vintage clocks to younger generations and inspire an appreciation for these remarkable mechanical devices from the past. In today’s modern age of a throw-away culture, how many items can you think of that still function flawlessly after more than a century? It is a short list indeed!
A Special Milestone
In 2025, I will celebrate the remarkable milestone of reaching 1 million views, and I’ll be publishing a special article to mark the occasion. This achievement highlights the significant impact and reach of my content, demonstrating that my blog has resonated with a broad audience and built a dedicated following over time. Reaching this level of engagement is a testament to the value and quality of the information I share, making it an incredibly rewarding accomplishment as a creator.
A Broader Perspective
My collecting journey has always been intertwined with a sense of history and nostalgia. Yet, I’ve also faced the reality that interest in antique clocks is waning among younger generations. While my children may not share my passion, I find joy in preserving my clocks for future collectors or enthusiasts who might rediscover their charm. I hope that a younger generation will emerge and find value in collecting these old treasures.
My tastes and collecting habits are evolving, and I am increasingly focusing on Canadian-made clocks or those with a significant Canadian connection. This year, I may sell some of my more common clocks, which will reduce my collection to a more manageable size while still preserving my collection of 15 Canadian-made clocks.
Looking Ahead
As the New Year is upon us, I’m excited about the possibilities. My trip to the UK in 2024 provided opportunities to explore horological treasures, visit museums, and reconnect with my British heritage. Whether acquiring new clocks or deepening my understanding of their history, I’m eager to see where future journeys take me.
To all fellow enthusiasts and readers of my blog: thank you for your support and shared passion for these timeless pieces of history. Here’s to another year of celebrating the art and craft of clocks!
This blog post was first published in 2016, and it’s now time to revisit and update it to reflect the changes in market conditions and prices since then. There are many reasons why clock prices are low and continue to decline, but at the risk of oversimplifying, I will say that the law of supply and demand applies to this area of collecting, as it does to many others. Thousands of clocks were produced in the past, and antique clocks have flooded online marketplaces in recent years.
Every clock owner wants to know the value of their clock, and every seller wants to know the right price to ask. This guide aims to help both buyers and sellers by addressing key factors involved in assessing the value of an antique or vintage clock.
The Unpredictable Clock Market
In today’s unpredictable clock market, determining a clock’s value can be a challenge. What you think your clock is worth might not align with expert opinions or what buyers are willing to pay. Values can shift from day to day and are influenced by many factors. The market can be unpredictable, and the value of a clock may fluctuate significantly over time.
For example, take a typical ad for a mid-1990s Howard Miller grandfather clock on Facebook Marketplace. The seller may have paid $3,000 at the time and think that an asking price of $1,500 is fair. However, if the clock fails to generate interest, it could ultimately sell for much less. I’ve seen these clocks go for as low as $400 and even less. I’ll explain why at the end of this article.
The personal value the owner places on the clock often differs from its market value, leading sellers to either accept a lower price than expected or remove the ad altogether.
Easy to find, difficult to realize more than a few dollarsfor oneon a sale
Even expert appraisals are subjective, based on the condition and collectibility of the clock, and are subject to market shifts. For example, while my Ridgeway grandfather clock is in excellent condition and a standout piece in my home, it has little market value today.
Factors That Influence the Value of a Clock
Is the clock original? Sometimes it is difficult to tell if every part of the clock is original? But a completely original clock in pristine condition holds more value than one that has suffered the ravages of time, neglect, or poor restoration.
Original clocks attract more buyers. If a clock has undergone significant repairs or replacement parts, its value will decrease. Determining originality can be difficult unless an expert inspects the clock. Many “Vienna Regulator” clocks, for instance, have been assembled with mismatched parts or movements, affecting their authenticity and value.
Many Ogee clocks have replacement movements, dials, hands, weights, tablets, and so on
What type or style of clock is it? While some clocks, like certain American mantel clocks, have little value due to many thousands of them having been produced, other styles such as 18th-century English bracket clocks or ornate French Cartel clocks can fetch high prices due to their rarity and historical significance. Tall-case clocks, despite their age, will often sell for much less than their original value.
Mantel clocks were produced by the thousands and have little to no value
Does the clock have a label, trademark, or prominent name? Clocks with identifiable labels or trademarks tend to be more valuable. Prominent clockmakers’ such as E. Howard or Simon Willard, hold more value than similar, unmarked clocks. Replacement labels or unmarked movements lower the clock’s desirability.
This elegant 1830s banjo clock could have been crafted by a renowned clockmaker but is unmarked and holds minimal value.
Is it from the correct period, or is it a “knock-off” or reproduction? Many clocks, like the reissues of the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 in the 1970s, are less valuable than their original counterparts. Identifying subtle differences between originals and reproductions is key. Japanese and Chinese manufacturers produced “millions” of knock-off wall clocks that might fool the novice buyer.
Cheap and disposable Chinese-made clock, not worth repairingor buying
Does the clock have provenance? The history of a clock can add value. For instance, a clock with a documented history, owned by a famous person, for example, may command a higher price due to its historical significance. Intricately made tall case clocks with special provenance, made by noted clockmakers, for instance, will command high prices.
Ornate clocks such as this one are worth a small fortune
What is the age and condition? Much like antique cars, a clock’s age can contribute to its value, but condition plays a far more significant role. Just as a classic car with rust, missing components, or subpar restorations loses its appeal and worth, a clock with missing parts, poor repairs, or a poorly repainted dial will see its value diminish. Similarly, some clocks, despite their age, may lack desirability due to inferior craftsmanship or limited collector interest, much like certain vintage cars that fail to garner attention despite their years.
180-year-old woodworks clock; worth almost nothing, old is not gold!
Is the clock collectible? Rare or unique clocks are highly collectible. For instance, antique Canadian-made Arthur Pequegnat clocks are highly sought after in Canada, while the same clocks may have limited appeal outside specific regions.
For some reason, these Series I Kienzle World Time clocks tend to fetch high prices
What is the mechanism type? Generally, three-train clocks (time, strike, and chime) are more complex and valued higher than two-train clocks (time and strike). Weight-driven clocks tend to be worth more than spring-driven ones. Conversely, some collectors tend to steer clear of complex clocks due to the challenges involved in repairing them.
People Don’t Want Clocks Anymore
The declining interest in antique and vintage clocks stems from several factors. Modern lifestyles prioritize convenience, and digital devices like smartphones and smart home systems have replaced traditional clocks as timekeeping tools. Generally, I find that younger generations do not share the same appreciation for historical craftsmanship, focusing instead on technology or experiences over physical heirlooms.
Modern homes, often compact condominiums with limited space, leave little room for accommodating a clock.
Antique clocks often require maintenance and specialized knowledge to repair, which can deter potential buyers.
Changing interior design trends also play a role, as many people prefer minimalist or contemporary aesthetics that do not accommodate antique and vintage clocks.
In the coming years, the prices of clocks will decline further as Baby Boomers—many of whom have been the primary custodians of antique and vintage clocks—enter retirement, downsize their homes, or pass away. This generational shift often leads to an influx of clocks entering the market as these individuals or their families divest of heirlooms and collectibles, items their own children do not want. With younger generations generally less interested in owning or maintaining such treasures, the supply will far outpace demand. This over-saturation, combined with changing tastes and priorities, will drive prices down even further, making it a buyer’s market for those who appreciate the art and history of antique clocks.
Do Your Research
Research is the key to determining value. Study online auction sites, local sales, reputable clock shops, and message boards to gauge prices. Be aware that clock prices are highly volatile and can change quickly based on supply and demand.
Before buying or selling, also research prices on eBay, reputable auction houses, and through local dealers. Finding clocks similar to yours can give you a price range to gauge your clock’s value—whether for personal interest or if you’re planning to sell.
Understand that clock prices fluctuate, and markets can be unpredictable. Always do your homework, ask questions, and provide honest descriptions if selling. Keep in mind that certain mass-produced clocks, many from China, Korea, and Japan, are not in high demand among collectors. This was true in 2016 and true today.
With the Internet’s impact, many clocks once thought to be rare have flooded the market, which affects prices. The law of supply and demand dictates that as supply increases and demand decreases, prices will drop. However, high-end, collectible clocks continue to retain their value.
Summary
Determining the value of an antique or vintage clock can be challenging, influenced by factors like originality, condition, age, and market demand. While personal sentiment often plays a role in perceived value, the reality of the unpredictable clock market requires thorough research and realistic expectations. Whether you’re buying or selling, understanding what makes a clock desirable and collectible will help you navigate this ever-changing landscape. With patience and knowledge, you can uncover hidden treasures or find the right buyer for your timepiece.
Is now a good time to purchase that special clock? With careful research, you may find bargains, but tread lightly, the clock market can be a minefield.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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