My wife was going through the online catalogue of an estate auction recently and found an attractive vintage Gilbert tambour style clock.
Gilbert mantel clock 1925
“Are you interested?” she said. “Sure”, I said, “put a maximum bid of $35”. We won the bid at $25 + tax and buyer’s premium, so, still under $35 CDN. Would I have paid more? Not likely. However, it is a handsome “Napoleon hat” styled clock but they were plentiful and cheap at the time and not particularly valuable or desirable today despite the fact that it is almost 100 years old.
One cannot deny the classic style of an American Ogee clock. This one is in great shape and required almost nothing to get it to top form. 30-hour shelf clocks are abundant but not many cases survive years of wear and tear.
Dial removed to show the 30 hour movement
This George H. Clark 30-hour shelf clock is a very good example of Connecticut form. The case form is called an “og” or “ogee”, a mathematical term that describes the “S” curve shape in the primary molding that surrounds the door.
The clock has a brass time and strike, weight driven movement with an excellent original printed paper label on the interior reading in part “Made and Sold at/46 Courtlandt St/New York…. George H. Clark”. It measures 28 x 17 x 4.5”. This rectangular shaped case is decorated with nicely grained mahogany veneers. The veneer has very little if any losses.
The dial face
The upper section of the door is fitted with clear glass. Through this one can view the painted wood dial. The wood dial tells me that it is an early pre-1850 clock. This dial is formatted with a Roman numeral time track.
It is always a challenge matching 100+-year-old paint but by combining white. brown and yellow acrylic paint I was able to approximate the original colour. Some Roman Numerals were touched up with black acrylic paint.
The wood dial before touch-upsAnd after numerals and face given a matching paint; you can see the difference in the number 4
I also glued two small blocks under the left and right “L” pins to centre the dial correctly.
The door is open showing the gong coil and the pasted label in very good condition
The lower section features a beehive painted tablet. The tablet is a replacement but fairly close to what would have been there at the time.
Beehive design; not original but in keeping with the style
Observations regarding the movement
The movement looks like an early (unmarked) Waterbury, ca. 1860 type 2.411. Waterbury movements have “quarter-round” corners, while most other ogee movements tend to have the “tombstones” or plain rectangles. The movement could have been swapped but It is difficult to tell.
A clean Jerome style movement
Everything except the movement points to a period between 1840-50. If the movement is a replacement it was likely an early replacement.
30-hour movements will run surprisingly well with horrible pivot wear. However, regarding repair, my view is this: I do not normally install new bushings in every single pivot hole on the movement. If a bushing hole is passable I will leave it as-is but if the hole is quite oblong I will install a new bushing to mitigate potential gear meshing issues in the future.
Addressing the movement
I will also ignore some past repairs. For example, in this particular movement I noticed 4 punch marks around the escape wheel bridge pivot hole. As most clock repairers know using a punch to close a pivot hole was an acceptable practice many years ago though it is not considered a good practice today. In this particular case, the pivot hole was in good shape and I decided to leave it as-is. After assessing the movement further, I installed one bushing on the second wheel front plate strike side (S2) and the second on the second wheel strike side rear plate (T2). Just two bushings. As to the three lantern pinions, they were in very good condition.
Reassembly was routine. The time side ran fine.
Adjusting the strike side was not easy and should have been a simple procedure. The problem was not only correctly positioning the warning pin on the fly but ensuring that the warning hook lever could actually meet the warning hook. The levers in this clock had been bent every which way making it a real challenge to find the correct angles. It did not strike correctly before servicing. Trial and error combined with colourful language certainly helped correct the strike.
The finished clock
The gong block and coil were also cleaned up. Tip; it helps to put the same screws back in the same holes. Seems trivial but it is a good practice. Not all screws are the same.
Gong block removed and cleaned
Little time was spent on this clock and I was fortunate to have an almost perfect case. The previous owner knew how to take care of the case but the movement neede work. When many of these clocks stopped they simply became decorations but I am sure that this one will run reliably for many more years to come.
In the process of adjusting the strike side on a George H Clark 30-hour clock I decided to make a video showing how to remove and install a 30-hour movement from its case.
George H. Clark 30 hour movement before servicing
Part of the video concerns the adjustments required for the clock to run correctly but also shows the steps required to safely remove and install a 30-hour movement with a couple of worthwhile tips.
IMPORTANT: In the video, I did not include the fact that the two holes in the movement seat board are access points for pins that insert into the side support boards. Along with the top block they are intended to secure the movement in place. I have five Ogee clocks and none of them had pins when I received them. Inspect the movement mounting first. If you should have a clock with the pins they must be pulled before the movement slides out. (Thank you for pointing this out JC).
You will not see Geneva stops on many clocks but if you do here is an explanation of how they work and how to set up the stops.
EN Welch Whittier parlour clock circa 1895, time and strike movement with Geneva stops
Most American clock movements do not use the middle portion of a long & powerful spring but use most, if not all of the mainspring. Geneva stops address this power issue. They are found on better quality antique movements made by American manufacturers. They are set so that when winding the mainspring you can only wind so far and then no further. As we know, clocks can’t be “over-wound” and this lets you know where the definite stopping point is.
On weight drive clocks Geneva stops are used to prevent undue force coming on the pendulum by jamming the weight against the seat board.
Stop works are used as a compromise by utilizing only the middle portion of a long and powerful spring, which varies too much in the amount of its power in the fully wound and completely released positions to get a good rate on the clock if all the force of the spring were utilized in driving the movement.
Removing the stops will do no harm to the movement but it will not release power as originally intended
You will notice a long “finger” (long point of upper star) on one of the Geneva stop gears and a wider gap (shallow groove of lower star) on the other. You set these up so that when the proper number of turns are completed the long finger meshes with the wide gap, thus preventing any further turning.
Strike side stop in lock when long point of upper star is engaged in shallow groove of lower star
You will need a letdown set to release the springs
Setting up the Geneva stop
Wind up the spring and then let it down slowly until the stop work is locked, counting the number of turns and writing it down. Then, hold the spring with your let down key and remove the stop from the plate; then count the number of turns until the spring is down and also write that down. Alternatively, wind the mainspring until it winds no further, release the mainspring with your letdown key one complete turn and set the stop. It may take more than one try to set it up correctly.
Don’t worry if they have been removed
On many antique clocks these have been removed because the repair person did not know what to do about properly setting them up.
Geneva stops removed
Removing the stops will do no harm to the movement but it will not release power as originally intended.
This is a recent acquisition bought at a local online estate auction site. It has a curious fact that I found quite intriguing.
My wife and I saw a very attractive colonial style Stickley writers desk and while browsing further through the online catalogue I noticed 2 clocks. One was an IBM style time clock and the other was this, a 30 hour New Haven Sharp Gothic (steeple) time and strike clock.
Sometimes we win and sometimes we lose but we do not get caught up in the fever of bidding
Early in the day we put a maximum bid of $60 on the Stickley desk and $40 on the steeple clock. As we often do, we let the bids stand while we go about our day. Our usual strategy is to apply the most we think we would pay. Sometimes we win and sometimes we lose but we do not get caught up in the fever of bidding. At the end of the bidding day, we discovered that we had won both items. Of course, as auction goers know there is a buyers premium and a tax on anything you “win” which adds to the price.
Stickley is an American maker of fine furniture and is best known for their timeless mission style designs. We are pleased to have won a well-made and attractive little desk that is a great addition to our sun-room. The fact that It is in exceptional condition is a plus.
Stickley writing desk circa 1940
The New Haven Clock Company was founded in New Haven, Connecticut by Hiram Camp (1811‑1892) and other clock-makers
The other win was a $40 steeple clock. Steeple clocks, otherwise known at the time as Sharp Gothics, were made from about the 1830s to around 1900. This is a 30-hour clock which is easily recognizable from the front face by the close proximity of the winding holes to the centre arbour.
History of the New Haven Clock Co.
The New Haven clock Co. produced clocks for over 100 years. In 1853 the Haven Clock Company was founded in New Haven, Connecticut by Hiram Camp (1811‑1892) and other clock-makers. The company’s mission was to mass produce inexpensive brass clock movements for use in clocks. In April, 1856 The New Haven Clock Company eventually bought out the Jerome Clock Company. They moved their production to the former Jerome factory and New Haven began making clocks under their own trademark. In 1870 some of New Haven’s clocks were marketed under the Jerome & Co. brand. Early unmarked movements were Jerome designed.
In 1885 the company stopped selling clocks other than their own New Haven brand. In 1890 the company developed serious financial problems and efforts were made to keep it solvent until 1897 at which time the company emerged after reorganization. In 1902 Walter Chauncey Camp (1859-1925) began to turn the company around. In 1923 Walter Camp stepped down as head of the company and was succeeded by Edwin P. Root.
In 1929 Richard H. Whitehead replaced Root as president of the company but New Haven again faced financial difficulties compounded by the Great Depression in November, 1929. Whitehead was able to keep the company afloat during these troubled times and the firm regained profitability. From 1943 to 1945 the company turned to the war effort, producing products almost exclusively for military use. In March of 1946 The New Haven Clock and Watch Company became the new name of the firm after it reorganized once again. It returned to what it did best before the War, making clocks and watches.
The 1946 reorganization eventually leaves the company vulnerable to foreign investors and it lost control to a consortium of Swiss watchmakers. The man who had successfully shepherded the company through the hard times of the Depression years, resigned as president. In 1956 the New Haven Clock and Watch Company filed Chapter 10 bankruptcy in a U.S. court. Its fortunes had declined precipitously since Whitehead’s departure and it never recovered. In 1960 the company went out of business and the production lines closed. The facilities were sold through a combination of public auction and private negotiation in March of 1960. After over 100 years the company was no more.
My auction win
This New Haven clock is in very good condition apart from minor veneer issues on the base and the columns. The clock is also missing the very tip of the right finial although it might be hard to tell from the photo. It measures 20 1/2 inches tall with a 5-inch dial. The movement appears to be original to the case. The dial is original and has some loss that would be expected in a 148-year-old clock. What I thought was a photograph taped to the lower glass is the original tablet. The tablet is interesting because it features a sailboat against Greek (?) temples surrounded by gold foliage on a black background. The design of the tablet was used in other New Haven clocks of the time. Though likely intended for European export the clock found its way to Canada instead.
Eight-day clocks eventually replaced 30-hour clocks 1865 to 1870 seems about right
Lower tablet
Now for a curious fact!
In my attempt to date the clock I found some information that narrows the time frame somewhat. It has an almost perfect label save for some staining on the bottom left. There is an over-pasted square blue coloured label on the bottom centre from a clock retailer in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada. As regular readers know, Halifax is only an hours drive from my home.
The small blue label says, “Thomas D. Spike, watchmaker and jeweler”. I accessed an online database and found that the business was listed in the 1869-70 City of Halifax business directory, however, I could not find how long the business was in operation. Logically, I can assume the clock came from his shop and is from that period.
Thomas D. Spike, watchmaker and jeweler, Halifax, Nova Scotia
According to one source the tapered escape wheel bridge was introduced around 1870. The tablet style is typical of the 1870s, so 1870 is very close to the date it was made.
Label in very good condition
The movement is a count wheel strike. The clock runs and keeps time but the strike side fails to stop. Once the clock starts striking it keeps on until the mainspring runs down. This is a common problem. In most cases, the warning wheel misses the locking lever even though the count lever in the deep notch and the maintenance lever is in the maintenance-cam notch. Bending a lever or two is a relatively easy fix but the clock must be dis-assembled in order to make this adjustment.
30 hour time and strike movement
However, I must put the clock aside for now as I have a Mauthe wall clock and a Jerome Ogee on the workbench. Once those projects are out of the way I can focus on repairing the veneer and servicing the movement of this fine example of an American sharp Gothic shelf clock from 1870.
If one were to ask those with a keen interest in Canadian antique clocks, the word Pequegnat would immediately come to mind. Pequegnat produced clocks for close to 40 years and left an indelible mark on Canadian culture.
Predating Arthur Pequegnat is a lesser known clock maker (or clock-makers) that made clocks between 1872 and 1884. The Canada Clock Co, and the Hamilton Clock Co. struggled over a 12 year period to put Canada on the clock-making map. In 1872 the Canada Clock Co. established itself in Whitby, Ontario (Canada) but lasted just 4 years before failing, though largely due to a devastating factory fire.
Canada Clock Company cottage clock
Out of the ashes came another attempt in 1876 and key principles including manager John Collins moved to Hamilton and set up the Hamilton Clock Company. After 4 years this new company also failed and production halted in 1880. In late 1880 one more attempt was made to establish a new company called the Canada Clock Company resurrecting the old name. It is still based in Hamilton at the old Hamilton Clock Co. factory. Success was short-lived as the company declared bankruptcy in 1884 ending a dozen years producing clocks for the Canadian market.
Although both movements and cases were made in Canada they were copies American styles
Canada Clock Company, Prince of Wales parlour clock
Canada Clock Company, City of Hamilton parlour clock
I have grouped the clocks from the three companies and these are their characteristics. The most common clocks found today are the weight-driven, thirty-hour “Ogee” style, with colourful birds or flowers surrounded by a black background on the glass tablet. At least five different labels are known, four have a beaver on them. The large printed paper label was located inside the case on the lower back. Spring-driven mantel clocks with plain cases were also made with thirty-hour movements. Although both movements and cases were made in Canada they were obvious copies of American styles.
Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple clock with etched glass tablet
Clock label showing the Hamilton Clock Company factory
Also produced was a spring-driven “school house” wall clock.
At least sixty models of spring-driven mantel clocks are known, with both thirty-hour and eight-day movements. Most of the door tablets (Canada Clock Co.) have acid etched glass designs, unique to the two Hamilton-based companies and done in association with a local glass factory. Wall clocks are also found with the Canada Clock Company, Hamilton label.
The most desirable clocks are the ornate time and strike parlour clocks such as the City of Hamilton and Prince of Wales pictured above.
Unfortunately, a valiant attempt to grow a home-bred clock company failed miserably. However, the clocks of all three companies are highly sought after by Canadian collectors today.
This is Part II of a two part series in which I describe the final finishing of an Arthur Pequegnat Bedford clock case.
In Part I I described the challenges of repairing the clock case and the minor repairs to the movement.
In the first part of the series I also described how I acquired this Arthur Pequegnat mantel/shelf clock during my travels to Quebec this spring.
The red oak veneered clock is complete with pendulum bob, a good label on the inside back of the access panel, coil gong and of course, the signature time and strike Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates.
Nickle-plated plates with brass bushings
It is the “Bedford” model. Online research informs me that two Bedford models were produced. This one, which is the later version, measures 9 ¾ inches high by 8 ¾ inches wide by 5 ½ inches deep. It has a silvered 6 inch dial with Arabic numerals with no Pequegnat inscription on the bottom of the dial face, spade hands surrounded by a thick brass bezel and concave base moulding. It has a passing ½ hour strike on a coiled gong.
The earlier model has a 5 inch enameled dial with stylized Arabic numerals and Pequegnat inscription on the dial face, spade hands, oak veneered case, a thinner brass bezel and convex base moulding. The case measurements are identical. The time and strike movement differs from the later model by having a ½ hour passing strike on a bell.
If the dial is a replacement, it is a Pequegnat and someone took the trouble to install larger (and correct) spade hands
I initially thought that the larger dial might make this a one-of clock but after working on the case I am inclined to believe that the dial might be a replacement. I observed two sets of screw holes, one for the larger dial and one presumably for a smaller one. A factory switch or perhaps a clock-maker replaced the dial at a later time for whatever reason. After looking at a photo of the Bedford taken at the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario (Canada) you can easily see the smaller dial and thinner bezel.
Bedford clock on display at the Canadian Clock Museum
Arthur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock, assembled, cleaned and working but before case refinishing
I do not think the larger dial overpowers the look of the clock, in fact, it gives it a more contemporary presence. If the dial is a replacement, it is a Pequegnat and someone took the trouble to install correctly sized spade hands. Unfortunately, the previous owner is unaware of the difference.
The task of clamping and gluing the case took several days as each section of the case required attention. And now to the final finish.
Gluing and clamping took time
Before the case restoration. Yes, the clock was in sad shape.
Very dirty case with years of grime and no grain visible
After giving the case a good cleaning I applied one thin coat of Minwax red oak stain to hide the bare areas and rough edges. I let the stain sit for 5 minutes and wiped off the excess with a cotton cloth. I allowed the case to thoroughly dry for 24 hours before the first sanding. For the final finish I chose Minwax PolyWipe for two reasons, one, it is simple to apply since it is easily wiped on and secondly, I wanted to avoid the amber tone of a lacquer which might result in concealing the grain. I applied six coats of PolyWipe and used 400 grit emery paper between each coat.
After cleaning, sanding and two coats of PolyWipe this is the result.
After two PolyWipe applications
I am pleased that the grain came up very nicely, reminding me of what it must have looked like many years ago.
Finished clock, after 6 coats of PolyWipe
After six thin coats of PolyWipe the result is a revitalized finish that is durable, attractive and will last for years.
The brass door has me puzzled. What I thought was a broken hinge was actually folded into the bezel and soldered.
7/8 inch hinge is soldered back into the bezel
Why? I am reluctant to remove the solder because I risk breaking the glass by bending the retaining tabs. They are in very tight. As it stands the glass door will friction fit onto the dial bezel. Not the best but it will do for now. I will give it a second look, perhaps I can de-solder that hinge without removing the glass.
A project that is well worth the time and effort. It is always satisfying saving an old clock and bringing it back to life.
I have the 30-hour clock bug and my collection of them is steadily growing, but where to put them all? I have not decided where to put this one and for the moment it is on the floor of my work room.
Sperry and Shaw were not thought of as a high end clock company but some models like this 4 column New York style were quite attractive
This is a New York-styled Sperry and Shaw 30 hour time and strike, 4 column shelf hour strike clock, measuring 25 1/2 inches in height by 14 inches in width. The 4 free-standing turned columns first drew my attention as I had never seen anything quite like it. While researching the NAWCC site I discovered that this clock was made in or about 1846-47. The label, of which 98% is intact inside the backboard says 10 Courtlandt (not a misspell, there is a second”t”) Street, the company headquarters during the aforementioned period. Sperry and Shaw were business partners and were regarded as distributors and assemblers rather than clock-makers.
Sperry and Shaw’s label showing 10 Cortlandt St.
They sourced cases and movements, affixed their own stamp on the movement and placed their labels (sometimes over other makers labels) inside the case, a common practice at the time as clocks for the home and workplace both locally and abroad were in great demand.
Not everyone in the clock business was happy with Sperry and Shaw. Consider this excerpt from Chauncey Jerome’s book, History of the American Clock Business.
“These New York men would say that they were agents for Jerome and that they would have a plenty in a few days, and make a sale to these merchants of Jerome clocks. They would then go to the Printers and have a lot of labels struck off and put into their cheap clocks, and palm them off as mine. This fraud carried on for several years. I finally sued some of these blackleg parties, Samuels & Dunn and Sperry & Shaw, and found out to my satisfaction that they had used more than two hundred thousand of my labels. They had probably sent about one hundred thousand to Europe.”
Chauncey Jerome had a few clock-makers/assemblers on his hit list that included Sperry and Shaw and at least managed to sue some successfully.
Sperry and Shaw were not thought of as a high-end clock company but some models like this 4 column New York style were quite attractive, sold well at the time and are sought after today by collectors.
The movement is Jerome-like (Counterfeit perhaps?) and stamped Sperry and Shaw, New Jersey. I measured the plate thickness and compared it to a Jerome in my collection and the plates in this clock are a little thinner.
The narrow brick-shaped weights (4 3/4 inches X 1 inch) fit neatly into channels on the left and right. When I first communicated with the seller, he was not sure if the weights were in the clock. He later emailed to say that it did indeed have weights. I would have passed on the clock had it not come with the weights because the narrow bricks are the only type that will fit into the channels and they would have been almost impossible to source. The weight cords, clearly not original, are old and frayed and will be replaced with simulated gut. How old, well on the first night I raised the strike weight up about halfway and about 20 minutes later I heard a loud BANG. I knew exactly what happened; the cord had snapped and the weight had dropped. Luckily there was no damage.
The open moon steel hands are original.
The upper glass appears original and has the waviness you would expect from a clock over 172 years old.
The lower tablet has a cropped image of the Bay of Quinte (Ontario, Canada) taped to the inside – not original but old. The original 18X12 cm steel engraving was drawn by W. H. Bartlett and engraved by J. C. Armytage in 1840; the image can be found here. Since the image is from 1840 and appropriate to the period of the clock, I might just leave it there. It also tells me that the clock likely spent most of its life in Ontario, Canada.
Sperry and Shaw clock showing dial and lower tablet print
The zinc dial is old though not as old as the clock itself since there is a patent stamp on the back of the dial dated Dec 1, 1863.
Dial patent date of 1863, a later addition to the clock
There is also a clock-makers inscription that says, “cleaned by Felo Bros, March XX 1901”. Obviously this particular dial would not have been on the clock at the time it was made. A wood dial would have been appropriate for the period.
Clock-makers inscription in pencil
The case looks good…from a distance. The veneer looks like mahogany or walnut, I am really not sure. There are a few small pieces of veneer missing at various places and mostly on the corners, a common issue. It has a two-tone appearance though the case might have been all one colour when made (??). There is a lot of grime on the darker surfaces and I have to decide whether to leave as-is or take it down a little bit to see what’s there. Attending to the veneer issues should be a fairly straightforward process. The break in the right corner of the base is a crude repair and that will have to be redone.
One of several areas of minor veneer loss
The movement is dirty but should clean up nicely. There is not a lot of pivot wear on the front plate of the movement but I will learn more once it is out of its case.
There are a number of other clocks in the queue but I am eager to tackle this one.
The clock is a 1937 Blackforest Royal Tour commemorative edition shelf clock with an 8-day time-only “plate” clock movement. Plate clock movements are so-called because they were typically used on kitchen clocks with Dutch Delft plates such as this one in the next photo.
Delft Plate Clock from Forestville
The movement is likely German and could have been made by a number of companies. There are no stamps or markings on the movement to give any indication of the maker. Canadian companies such as the Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto (the Forestville Clock Company after the war) imported German movements before the Second World War and installed them in Canadian made cases.
Grimy movement prior to cleaning
This clock had been happily running for about a year and then last week it suddenly stopped after a winding. I nudged the pendulum in an effort to make it go, checked to see if it was in beat and level but no luck. I nudged the pendulum a few more times, left it for a day or so, tried it again and still no luck. I was at the point of disassembling the movement to investigate the problem. Two days later I wound it tight and gave the pendulum a push and it sprang to life. I think I know what happened.
I thought I did a good job of servicing the movement including the mainspring over a year ago but apparently not well enough. You may have heard the expression, “you overwound the clock so that’s why it stopped”. There is a grain of truth in the expression because if you wind the spring till it winds no further the mainspring is at it tightest. If there are dirt, grime and rust on the mainspring the mainspring will actually cease in place, hence the clock stops. I believe this is what occurred in this case. Although it is running now it will need to be properly cleaned. In the meantime, I will let it run and see if it completes its full 8-day cycle.
In the early spring, my wife and I travelled to Portugal and Spain. We attended our daughter’s destination wedding in Sintra, Portugal and we decided to expand our stay, visit Spain and see the sights in Barcelona and Montserrat. Spain has always been on our bucket list and it did not disappoint.
Being a clock enthusiast I did a little research beforehand to find out if there were any clock museums along our travel route. Alas, we travelled to places that were very distant from the well know clock museums. Clocks in Europe were made in specific regions and that is where you will find clock museums. Here are a few clocks that I found in various places in Spain (Barcelona) and Portugal. I will let the photos tell the story.
Tall case clock in a Barcelona cathedral
Little card on the side simply said “High box clock, school clock”, Barcelona
A marriage of movement and case found in a shop in Sintra, Portugal
Town clock in downtown Sintra, Portugal
A very ornate clock in poor condition, Pena Palace, Sintra, Portugal
The most ornate clock I found is this working example at the Porto basilica
Unknown mantel clock, Tivoli Hotel, Sintra, Portugal
Unknown gallery clock. I could not find an opening on this clock. No arbour holes on the clock face. Found on an estate in Sintra, Portugal
Flea market clock. Time and strike English or German clock, the 1960s
Flea market clock. Time and strike French clock with matching candelabra
Used goods store, time and strike wall clock, possibly French
I was not specifically looking for these clocks but as we visited churches, museums, shops and public places I photographed any I discovered in our travels.
I am not a huge collector of steeple clocks but I was intrigued by one I found in an old barn. I bought 4 clocks as part of a barn find this past winter (2018). Two including this one are salvageable. The two others are for case and works parts only.
$5 for a clock is a real bargain. This antique American Elisha Manross 30 hour time and strike steeple clock is an interesting variant of the sharp Gothic steeple clock. It looks fairly plain today but it was a striking style for its time. The early Steeple clocks of the 1840s influenced the design of later steeple clocks which were produced in large numbers up to the end of the 19th century.
A unique feature is the 30 hour brass movement with 2 brass mainsprings. Brass mainsprings were used in American clocks between 1836 and 1850. When affordable steel mainsprings arrived the brass mainspring disappeared into history. This clock was made in the Elisha Manross factory in Bristol, Connecticut (USA) August of 1843. 30 hour movements are immediately recognizable because of the proximity of the winding holes to the centre cannon. Eight day movements, which are taller, would have much lower winding arbours.
The dial face is in reasonably good shape with some losses on the edges and corners
The good and the bad
The good: the movement, coil gong and dial face are original as is the pendulum bob. The label is in very good condition for the age of the clock. The upper glass tablet is original and shows the waviness you would expect with visible imperfections. The movement works but needs a thorough cleaning. The movement looks good though I will know more once I disassemble it for cleaning.
The bad: the mahogany veneered case is in poor condition with nicks, scratches and gouges on the entire surface. The very tip of the left steeple is broken off. There is a large piece of veneer missing on the right side on the clock base but that piece was found inside the clock and later glued in place. The most critical issue is the missing right steeple and base. The lower tablet is missing. There would have been a Fenn or similar design. Clear glass has been installed in its place. It is also missing the minute hand.
This side piece of veneer was found inside the case glued in place but there is still a small section that needs veneering
Work to be done
My first task is to clean the case and determine how I should approach finishing the clock case. I decided not to strip the case because there is a certain patina I would like to preserve.
My goal is the have a running clock in presentable condition and that includes replacing the right steeple. Ordering the missing parts from a clock supply house would seem to be a simple solution but unfortunately these parts must be hand made. To address the steeple base and spire I had some decisions to make. I took careful measurements of the left steeple base, cut a piece of pine stock to the same dimensions and clad it in crotch mahogany.
Pine cut and test fit for right steeple base
A relatively simple task of veneering took three days as I had to veneer each side, clamp, wait till it dried and trim off the excess before tackling the next side. Hide glue was used for this project. Hide glue is appropriate because it is an organic adhesive and it is the type of glue that would have used at the time.
The steeple base is the middle block of wood
Sides and top are veneered, now the front
Once all sides were completed the spire was next. I have never made a finial before so this was a very interesting learning experience. The spire was somewhat more challenging since it involved patterning it off the left spire. As I discovered it is much harder than it looks. I do not have a wood lathe so my metal lathe had to do. I bought a set of wood lathe chisels at my local hardware store at a reasonable price though I discovered that they require sharpening prior to use.
Taig lathe with 1/4 hp motor
The result was something closer than I expected. Not perfect but until I improve my skills this will do for now. Working with softwood is relatively easy but working with hardwood would be a much greater challenge would think.
This is the first application of red mahogany stain on the steeple but how to get rid of the distracting wood grain!
The grain in the spire is certainly distracting and it is something I did not anticipate. One more application of stain concealed some of the grain but it is still visible at certain angles. Will a clear coat over the stain bring me the result I am looking for? Hmm!
Second application of red mahogany stain, grain is disappearing
After thoroughly cleaning the case with Murphy’s soap and Orange Oil I applied a very thin coat of red mahogany stain on the entire case, left it on for only one minute and wiped off all the excess residue. Again, my aim was to preserve the original patina as much as possible but hide numerous scratches. The stain filled in the scratches and I am satisfied with the end result. With the addition of the right final base and spire, the clock now looks complete.
Now to address the spire one more time. I decided that Minwax Poly Wipe was not working very well. The clear coat absorbed into the wood after two applications and still left a dull finish. I then selected a clear spar varnish and it finally gave me the results I was looking for.
The screws holding the movement were so loose they had to be replaced with bolts. The coil gong and base were cleaned and stripped of years of rust. I then oiled the movement, put the clock in beat and attached the dial face. The moon hands look good but are not original to the clock. While I have the hour hand the original needle type minute hand is long gone.
The clock is assembled and running
With the cased cleaned and with the addition of the right spire base and steeple the clock now looks presentable. Although I was able to make the spire on a metal lathe it it has certain limitations and I now see the value in using a wood lathe. I am also pleased that the movement is running but at some point it must be cleaned and properly serviced. At the moment there are just too many other projects standing in the way.
A great little project and a test of my veneering and woodworking skills.
Daniel Pratt reverse ogee and splat clock with mirrored tablet
This Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse Ogee shelf clock was made in Reading, Massachusetts, c. 1832-38. It has a splat-top mahogany case with half (?) reverse Ogee moldings flanking the door, painted wooden Roman numeral dial and mirrored lower tablet.
Clocks, manufactured and warranted by Daniel Pratt Jr
The label inside states in part.
Clocks manufactured and warranted by Daniel Pratt Jr. Reading Mass, U.S. Sold in any quantities on reasonable terms
The label is a ink drawing of a clock merchants shop and is printed by Dickinson and Co. 52 Washington St. Boston.
Wooden movement, time and strike
Wooden Roman numeral dial with missing grommet on right arbor hole
Daniel Pratt (1797-1871), Jr., clock-maker, banker, town clerk, legislator, lived in the town of Reading, Massachusetts, in the 1800s. Reading is a suburb twelve miles north of Boston. Pratt did not contribute much to clock-making and was regarded as an entrepreneur rather than an innovator. He made wooden movements in his plant, as well as wooden cases. The clocks they sold during the 1832-35 period were typically wooden movement, weight driven, 30 hour, wood-cased, “looking glass” shelf clocks.
This Pratt clock measures 28 inches high, 14 3/4 inches wide, and has a depth of 5 inches. It is covered with mahogany veneer over pine. The square dial is of painted wood, 9 inches wide by 8 1/2 inches tall, with Roman numerals with floral spandrels. The dial is in good condition for the age of the clock. This clock was produced during the heyday of wood movements which were eventually phased out when cheaper but more reliable brass movements were introduced after 1839.
The memory of this successful man is continued by the quiet, even beat of his many clocks which have survived to this day — truly a great honour indeed.
I bought four clocks at an estate auction several weeks ago, this and three other Ogee clocks plus a parlour clock. This clock is no less interesting than the others but I was lucky enough to research its maker and date it fairly accurately. I wish I knew its provenance but nevertheless it is an excellent example and has been well cared for over the years.
It is a Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee weight driven time and strike clock. No-one can deny that Chauncey Jerome had made a historic contribution to the American clock industry in the 18th century when he substituted brass works for wooden works and was said to be “the greatest and most far-reaching contributor to the clock industry.” Although he made a fortune selling his clocks, and his business grew quickly his company failed in 1856.
Chauncey Jerome one-day movement type 1.314
The number 11 Ogee was the last of the Jerome clocks made in 1855. Mike Bailey, a Chauncey Jerome clock collector has an excellent blog in which he meticulously details and dates Jerome cases and movements. After researching his site I was able to determine that my clock is a number 11 Ogee made just before the Jerome bankruptcy, 1855. It has the Jerome patent 30 hour brass movement number 1.314 which is likely original to the case.
Type 1.314 movement, very dirty
There were some issues with the movement as you would expect from a 156 year old clock. There were a number of punch marks here and there, but specifically on the first wheel and the second wheel time side. The movement had years of dirt. The repairs over the years are typical for this type of clock. Punching to close pivot holes would have been the preferred approach to repairing a worn clock. With the advent of the modern bushing machine repairs are much simpler.
Eight bushings were installed. The first wheel strike side, the second wheel strike side plus the fly, the lower gear off the centre cannon, rear plate and 3 bushings on the time side.
Punch marks on first wheel, strike side
A piece came off the wood support for the movement when I disassembled the movement. Dry-rot perhaps. I had leftover hide glue from a previous project, applied the glue and clamped it for 24 hours.
Broken movement support
The retainer clip for the count wheel was riveted in placed and prevented me from taking it apart.
Retainer clip for count wheel riveted in place, not nice!
Some were punched very close to the pivot hole as you can see in this next photo. I left that as-is and decided to take a second look in a year or two.
Looks like a large pivot hole but actually punched very close to the hole
After eight bushings were installed (4 in the front and 2 in the rear) and an ultrasonic cleaning, the parts are test fit to check the smooth running of the gears. The rope for the weights looked re-usable, they were not replaced. The suspension spring also looked to be in good shape. The crutch wire has had bending and twisting over the years but it was also re-usable.
Test fitting parts after cleaning
30 hour movement servicing, oiled, movement in the case
C Jerome 30 hour movement testing in the case
Now to regulate the movement. The clock is ticking away nicely and in beat. There are always challenges setting the strike side and this movement is no exception. However, through trial and error the strike side is functioning as it should.
These are very simple clocks to service and a great movement to hone your clock repair skills.
Antique and vintage clocks evoke a time when life was simpler than the hectic times we live in today. Those nostalgic times when the things we bought and cherished were living memories of people and places that are gone but not forgotten. Antique clocks should be passed down from one generation to the next. Judging from the online marketplaces unfortunately many are not handed from father to son at all as so many have left their original owners. Is sentimentality lost on this generation?
Two such clocks have a story
Not including the the nine clocks I have in my home office there are 35 clocks displayed throughout our home. It saddens me to think that for many of my clocks I know absolutely nothing about them though I wish they all could talk. What stories they could tell.
Two such clocks have a story.
One of my clocks survived the Halifax Explosion in 1917. I know this because the people I bought it from had the clock in their family for over 100 years. It was certainly not in the condition you see here. It was a box of parts and I imagine they felt they had held onto it long enough and it was time to let it go. After I restored the clock I called back the previous owner and told him what I had done with the clock and would I kindly send him a photo of it restored to its former glory. I did and heard nothing afterwards. Sellers remorse, perhaps. I often look at the clock and try to imagine that fateful day when it fell of the wall in a modest home in North Halifax on December 6, 1917.
Junghans Crispi wall clock
Story number two. You have to feel something for some of the previous owners. This Ingraham Huron shelf clock (circa 1878) is a real gem and fairly rare, you just do not see it come up for sale very often. Some would call it a balloon clock. It was bought in a little village outside Bridgewater, Nova Scotia. My wife and I are about 2 hours away and we decided to make a trip out of getting the clock, having lunch nearby and doing a little shopping.
Do you know anyone who wants Jeff Gordon memorabilia?
Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site
We arrived at the sellers home, a modest nondescript bungalow. I was greeted at the door by an elderly couple. They had previously told me on the phone a day earlier that after consultation with their son they had decided on a fixed price for the clock and the price seemed very fair to us.
I asked how long they had the clock and the gentlemen who I would say was in his early seventies said that he could remember the clock in this grandmother’s home when he was quite young. He extended his hand palm down to about a meter from the floor and said, “I was this tall when I can first remember it in my grandmother’s home”. After a conversation with the couple I had discovered that they were parting ways, an amicable separation it seemed and the wife had decided to live in an apartment minutes away in Bridgewater. The husband was left with the home and his workshop in the back of the property. “He spends a lot of time out there anyway and besides, we need to get rid of stuff”. “Do you know anyone who wants Jeff Gordon memorabilia?” “No”, I said and left with the clock. It is sad that they had to part with such a memory but people change.
Seth Thomas column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike shelf clock
I guess sentimentality has a dollar value or people live with things so long that they eventually tire of having them. Deciding to get rid of things is about relieving yourself of all the stuff you’re hanging onto from past relationships and past memories. Secondly, our desire to hold onto piles and piles of old mementos can often be blamed on nostalgia. That’s because reminiscing about the past makes us feel good. It can lead to increased feelings of familial or social connectedness. If I have an old clock, looking at it can elicit positive emotions. Or, perhaps it was not an especially happy memory and getting rid of it expunges that memory.
I often wonder what will happen to my collection when I meet my fellow clock-makers in the sky. My wife knows that I have no real attachment to some of my clocks since I merely purchased them to learn how to repair them and to grow my hobby. Yes, you can have too many mantel clocks!
However, there are about ten clocks in my collection that I hope will be passed down to my kids. My four Arthur Pequegnats, two Vienna regulators, a Seth Thomas Empire style clock, my Sessions Beveled No. 2, my Ingraham Huron shelf clock and my Junghans Crispi wall clock. For some I appreciate their history and admire the folks who had them and for others they have become sentimental attachments because I spent so much time restoring them.
This is Part III and the final part of a three part series on my first venture into veneer repair on an antique clock. Prior to beginning this project I spent many hours researching veneer repair, watching YouTube videos and seeking advice from my knowledgeable colleagues at NAWCC.
A recent acquisition, this is an 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice time and strike shelf clock with sleigh front. It has a Plymouth (Hollow) lyre movement with a Thomaston Conn. label which means that the clock was made shortly before the incorporation of Thomaston in the early 1870s.
ST column and cornice, as found
An example of veneer loss
I assessed this clock in Part I and described the steps in preparation for the veneer repair. In Part II I described the process of applying veneer. Part III concerns the final finishing. Once the case work is complete I will focus my attention on servicing the movement, addressing the dial issues and replacing the clear glass with a floral pattern in the upper tablet.
The lighter coloured sections in the next photo are new veneer pieces. New veneer is found on the top of the cornice, the left cornice base, the right column support and sections of the bottom base.
Veneer repairs (light areas) are complete
Finishing is the final phase of this project. In many respects this can be the most challenging phase of the project because once the hard work of applying veneer is complete the job means nothing if the new veneer does not match the old veneer. Although it can never be a perfect match the goal is to come as close as possible.
One finish seemed to stand out above the others
I conducted an experiment on leftover Brazilian Rosewood.
I selected three stains/finishes, Minwax Rosewood gel stain, Wipe-On Polyurethane satin clear coat and yellow shellac. I utilized various light sources to see the effect colour temperature had on the results and came to the conclusion that there was one finish that seemed to stand out above the others.
In the photo below there are three swatches on a piece of leftover veneer; Rosewood gel stain on the left, Wipe-On Polyurethane in the middle and on the right is yellow Shellac. Wipe-On Poly initially struck me as the best of the three; it is subtle while bringing out the character of the Brazilian Rosewood veneer while keeping that “aged” look but it is too muted. Rosewood gel is reddish and quite dark and looked very striking compared to the original Rosewood.
I concluded that yellow shellac was the best choice. Shellac darkens the veneer and accentuates the red tones nicely. Shellac would have been been the original finish when the clock was made and it is still the finish of choice today.
Comparing the three stains
Although veneering is a challenge, it is very rewarding work and I eagerly await my next project
New veneer above cornice. The base of right cornice is original though it looks newer
After two coats of shellac
After three coats of shellac, the case is complete
With dial and doors re-attached, movement is out of the case at this stage
Although veneering is a challenge, it is very rewarding work and I eagerly awaiting my next veneering project.
Lyre movement serviced and oiled
With the veneer repairs completed and the movement serviced there is still work to be done on this clock. I have decided that the gesso columns will stay as-is. Next is perfecting a tablet design for the access door to replace the clear glass, and finally, making a decision regarding the dial face; whether to leave as-is, find a suitable replacement or buy a new one from a clock supplier.
Seth Thomas column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike shelf clock
Lessons learned:
Allot a significant portion of time for the project, it is time-consuming and meticulous.
For an authentic repair hide glue must be used; avoid white or yellow carpenters glue though I would think there are rare times when it would be considered.
Hide glue:
must be a certain consistency to work properly. It should drip off the brush like honey. My hide glue was too thin at the start of the project.
will last a while in the fridge. Don’t cap the glue while it cools; condensation will hasten mold growth
Stay away from plastic based modern stains and finishes and go with shellac or any finish that would have been used at the time.
Some use filler to smooth the gaps between pieces of veneer, I did not use filler for this project; it is something I might consider next time.
A light sanding of the veneer is all you need, aggressive sanding will destroy the veneer (lesson learned).
Apply painters tape on the veneer before cutting; doing so eliminates ripping and tearing.
Use a sharp hobby knife
In future I would consider replacing larger sections rather than a patchwork of small pieces though that largely depends on how much veneer you have to work with.
Clamps are essential. Get various sizes of clamps and use wax paper between the clamp and the veneer, you will thank me!
Leave the area clamped for 24 hours. Although hide glue bonds quickly clamping for a day will ensure maximum adhesion.
This was a great project and I am confident that my next veneer project will be even better. Time, patience and perseverance are keys to a successful veneering project.
This is Part II of a three part series on my first venture into veneer repair on an antique clock. Prior to beginning this project I spent many hours researching veneer repair, watching YouTube videos and seeking advice from my knowledgeable colleagues at NAWCC.
This is an 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice time and strike shelf clock with sleigh front. It has a Plymouth Lyre movement with a Thomaston Conn. label. The clock was made in the early 1870s.
Part I explores the steps in preparation for veneer repair.
The focus of this, Part II, is the selection of the correct veneer, working with hide glue, as well as cutting, applying and trimming the veneer.
Although one is tempted to use readily available yellow or white carpenters glue the only authentic product to use is hide glue
The veneer
I am not an expert in wood finishes and determining the type of veneer was my first major task. To do this I had to rely on expertise to tell me that I had Rosewood veneer. Once I discovered the type of veneer, I had to determine the quantity and the specific repairs that are required for this clock. My research revealed that the veneer used at the time was Brazilian Rosewood. An exotic wood, Rosewood would have been used extensively by clock-makers of that era and it is the correct veneer for this project. A clock friend (thanks JC) sent me two 7 X 8 inch pieces of Rosewood veneer, more than enough for the job.
The very worst sections were the top and bottom of the case and the column bases as one would expect given wear and tear over the years. Most of the cornice veneer is in good shape as are the door sections, door surrounds and the sleighs just above the feet.
Hide glue
One is tempted to use readily available yellow or white carpenters glue but the only authentic adhesive for clock case applications is hide glue. Hide glue is the glue of choice and it would have been utilized at the time the clock was manufactured. I chose pearl hide glue which is a type of hide glue rated at 150g Bloom strength. It takes takes a little longer to gel and with the longer working time it is better for applications like this when you need time to fit, but where high strength is not absolutely essential.
If you have never worked with hide glue, it is best to start with a small batch. My first batch was larger than I needed and too thin. Simply put 2 tablespoons (30ml) of glue in a heat-resistant glass container, cover with 1 tablespoons (15ml) of cold water and let soak for about an hour or until the glue softens and becomes gelatinous. Less is more and I recommend making small quantities. For about 20CDN you can buy a supply that will last a long time.
Place the container with the gelatinous glue in a bath of water in a pot especially designed for hide glue or a double boiler which I found worked just as well. Heat to approximately 140°F (60°C) and maintain the temperature. A candy thermometer is ideal to keep the glue at an even temperature.
Home-made double boiler with temperature maintained on a hot plate
Tools
Clamps, weights, tweezers, wax paper, a sharp knife, a metal straight-edge, painter’s tape, a micrometer, sand paper, palm sander and whatever you choose to use as a double boiler complete the list of tools.
A micrometer is an indispensable tool for accurate measurements. Accurate measurements ensure a good fit, minimize the use of fillers and lessen waste.
A micrometer ensures an accurate cut
Cutting, trimming & clamping
Cutting veneer can be tricky. Veneer is thin, brittle and can easily tear. Veneer today is different than veneer used 100+ years ago, it is very thin. On some clocks you may need to double-up, that is layer the veneer to approach the height of the original veneer.
Cutting can be a challenge since you must follow the grain and those narrow strips can break very easily. Painters tape is a true friend since it prevents tearing and it is easily removed from the veneer prior to application.
Painters tape ensure a rip free cut
Painters tape easily peels off
You will never have enough clamps
I chose to work one area at a time moving from the bottom of the case to the top. The next photos shows veneer sections glued and clamped into place. Clamps are essential for veneer repair but when clamps do not work other methods such as weights can be employed. You will never have enough clamps! Although a clamp need only be in place for a few hours, having it on for a 24 hours is best for maximum adhesion.
Clamping cornice veneer
Door piece and corner base piece is clamped
The upper left cornice presented a unique challenge. A section was missing just above the cornice. Fashioned out of softwood it was glued in place.
A piece of pine was cut to fit
Strip of veneer glued in place; prior to trimming and sanding
In this photo the piece for the curved part of the veneer is applied. The top area of the front cornice is now ready for staining and finishing.
Small angular cornice piece on left is glued in place
Top section is almost complete except for a left side cornice section (not visible in this shot)
As with any other project there will always be a slight colour variance as one would expect over the course of a century or more but the goal is to come as close to the original finish as possible
As mentioned the worst areas were the very top and very bottom of the case, expected after years of wear and tear. Another area which had veneer loss were the column bases. When possible I used old veneer to repair small areas but I found it very brittle and hard to work with. From my research I discovered that there are methods of softening old veneer but that can wait until the next project.
Right column base, prior to sanding and trimming
After many hours the veneer work is now complete The next step is colour matching the new to the existing veneer. As you can see in the following photo the chip held by green tape shows that Rosewood Minwax Gel stain is a close match to the older veneer. My experimentation did not end. Part III explores other finishing options.
As with any other project such as this there will always be a slight colour variance as one would expect over the course of a century or more. The goal is to be as close as possible to the original finish.
Colour matching test: the green tape is holding a chip that has one coat of Rosewood stain
Now that the veneer work has been applied the next and final stage is finishing. Stay tuned for Part III in a few days time.
This is Part I of a three part series on my first venture with veneer repair on an antique clock. Prior to beginning this project I spent many hours researching veneer repair, watching YouTube videos and seeking advice from my knowledgeable colleagues at NAWCC.
Repairing veneer on a clock case is inevitable. As much as I love old clocks I will eventually purchase clocks that need a little TLC in the case department. This is that day. Collecting and repairing clocks is not only about cleaning and servicing the movement but the care and repair of clock cases. Aesthetics are equally important in clock work. A clock not only must run as it should but it must be appealing as well. Many of the clocks in my collection are in excellent condition and have required very little case restoration, nothing more than a touch up here and there. I have avoided clocks that need too much work. For example this 30-hour Waterbury Ogee required extensive movement repairs but the clock case was in exceptional condition.
The veneer on this Waterbury 30 hour Ogee is in excellent condition
The Seth Thomas case is in generally poor shape, has some crude repairs along with many corner chips and missing veneer sections here and there
One of my latest clocks offered me my first opportunity to learn the art of veneering. I really wanted this 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice time and strike shelf clock and I was willing to overlook the veneer issues.
The clock is from the American Empire period which defined the early and mid nineteenth century design movement in American architecture. It has a Plymouth lyre movement with a Thomaston Conn. label. It has the two original 8.5 lb weights and pendulum bob. The lower tablet is original but the upper tablet which would have had a complimentary design is missing and replaced by clear glass. The dial is original having been introduced in the late Plymouth Hollow era circa 1862 up to about 1879 according to this site. The clock was made between 1875 when Thomaston was incorporated to 1879.
The case was intact save for one trim missing piece on the top section of the left cornice. There have been a number of crude repairs over the years which made the restoration somewhat frustrating but the veneer work was certainly within the limits of my capabilities.
Seth Thomas 8-day column and cornice with sleigh feet
Plymouth ST 8-day lyre movement
Cornice trim piece made from pine
New pine piece replaces missing section
The case is in relatively good shape but has some crude repairs along with many corner chips, missing veneer pieces here and there over the entire case save for most of the front cornice veneer and the sleighs which have stood up very well. The gesso columns have some finish loss but they will be left as is. The dial face has loss on the corners, barely visible floral designs on each corner, loss around the chapter ring and a large area of missing paint on the lower left bottom. There are three options for the dial face; a replacement dial, a repaint or leave as-is though this is a decision to be made at a future date. The clock did not come with hands but I have a spare set of Ogee hands that are appropriate for this clock.
Structurally the case is sound with no loose or moving parts save for a left side cornice which has let go and held on loosely by a small screw. The back panel looks secure though Robertson screws were used to re-attach it, a later repair since Robertson screws were not invented until 1908.
Dial in generally poor condition
Loss of veneer on the cornice
Another view of the same cornice showing a poor attempt at a repair
The photos show that a previous owner tried unsuccessfully to hide the damaged veneer by applying a “matching” paint. I found wood filler beneath the paint which was used to raise the painted area to the level of the veneer. An appalling attempt at a repair.
Chipped veneer below sleigh foot
Closer view of left foot with veneer chipped off
The bottom left foot had corner veneer damage as one would expect after years of wear and abuse. On the left edge of the foot you can see the same dark paint used to hide the cornice damage.
Having reviewed the work to be done it is now time to move to the next step in the restoration of this clock case.
The art of veneering is a steep learning curve
The art of veneering is a steep learning curve. Part of that requires acquiring new skill-sets and acquiring an understanding of protein adhesives and finishes.
Part II, in one weeks time, will describe the steps in the application of veneer, trimming and sanding. Part III will detail the final finishing.
Clocks have been more than just timekeepers throughout history; they are reflections of art, culture, and technological innovation. Whether for practical use or decorative appeal, clock styles have evolved to match the tastes, craftsmanship, and technologies of their times. Here’s a look at some of the most iconic and varied clock styles.
The clock is an instrument designed to keep and indicate time. It is one of the oldest human inventions. The clock has evolved through the ages from sundials in ancient times to early tower clocks of the 14th century weight-driven clocks and finally spring-driven clocks from the 1840s to the 1970s.
The world of mechanical clocks encompasses a wide variety of styles, and distinguishing between them can often be confusing—such as understanding the difference between a shelf clock and a mantel clock. In this article, I’ll navigate through these terms and highlight the most common styles or types, using examples from my own clock collection to illustrate them.
Mantel Clock
Many auction sites and even professional websites use the word mantle. The correct terminology is “mantel”. A mantle is a shawl or coat worn by women, an important role passed on from one person to another or the earth’s crust. A mantel is the top framing of a fireplace or a shelf above a fireplace opening.
A mantel clock is designed to fit on top of a fireplace or shelf. A mantel clock can be time only, time and strike, or a chiming clock. Generally, if there are 2 winding arbours it is a time and strike clock, if the clock has 3 winding arbours is it a chiming clock that is, it will play a tune on the quarter hours, the most common being the Westminster chime.
Mantel clocks might also be referred to as shelf clocks or buffet clocks.
Kitchen Clock
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock
Kitchen clocks are often referred to as gingerbread clocks or parlour clocks. At times, it can be difficult to differentiate between a kitchen clock and a parlour clock. Gingerbread clocks are distinctive because their designs are typically created by steam-pressing the wooden front face. However, some clocks, like the one above, are made using a powered cutting saw but are still classified as kitchen clocks. Additionally, some of these clocks included alarm mechanisms. The terms gingerbread, kitchen, and parlour are often used interchangeably.
Another type of kitchen clock is shown below. This is an 8-day time-only delft wall clock made by Forestville.
Delft Clock from ForestvilleE. N. Welch Whittier model
A parlour clock is generally considered more ornate than a kitchen clock, although it may still be referred to as a kitchen clock. It is placed in front hallways, entryways, and so on. The designs are always cut and there may be finials, a mercury-filled pendulum or very ornate design, garish trim pieces, and a decorative tablet.
Vienna Regulator
Gustav Becker two-weight Vienna regulator
There are many styles but most are of the single-weight or two-weight variety. The definition of a Vienna regulator is always open to debate but the consensus among collectors is that they are weight-driven, made in Austria/Germany, ornate in design, have porcelain dials, decorative crowns, large pendulums, and finials on the top and bottom.
The broad definition of Vienna Regulator includes those that are spring-driven. Though not defined as “regulators” it is acceptable among collectors to refer to them as a Vienna style.
Cottage Clock
Canada Clock Co Hamilton Cottage Extra
Sometimes called a mantel clock or a shelf clock, they are usually diminutive in size to occupy a smaller space. They are found in bedrooms and kitchens and are sturdily built since they are often designed to be portable. They come in time only, time and strike, or may have an alarm function.
Carriage Clock
French Carriage Clock
Carriage clocks are portable and were very popular around the turn of the 20th century. French-made carriage clocks are more collectible and fetch generally higher prices although American ones can be quite desirable. Carriage clocks are designed to be portable and are time-only but some are time and strike (with a repeater function) while others may have an alarm function.
Crystal Regulator
Ansonia Crystal Regulator
Crystal Regulator clocks are identified by a brass case with 4 crystals or glass panels. Porcelain dials, Roman or Arabic numerals, ornate in design but sometimes quite garish. Most are 10-12 inches in height though some are smaller. Makers are American and French though French crystal regulators are called four-glass clocks and tend to have higher value. Distinctive by their mercury or faux mercury pendulums. Some have visible Brocot escapements and the time and strike movements are always visible.
Cuckoo Clock
Cuckoo clock
These clocks are pendulum-regulated and make an automated sound like a cuckoo when it strikes the hours. Some can be very intricate with several animated characters. Desirable ones are antiques from the Black Forest region of Germany. Modern ones are generally frustrating to repair, cheaply built, and are poor timekeepers.
Lantern Clock
Converted lantern clock
A lantern clock is a type of antique weight-driven wall clock, shaped like a lantern. They were the first type of clock widely used in private homes. They probably originated before 1500 but only became common after 1600 and in Britain, around 1620. They became obsolete in the 19th century. The one pictured above has been converted into a fusee movement.
Alarm Clock
Baby Ben alarm clock with seconds hand
Alarm clocks are wound once per day and designed to do two things, wake you and display the time. They are cheap, and are average timekeepers but have long-lasting and reliable movements.
Desk Clock
Kienzle World Time clock
These sat on fancy office desks or credenzas in office locations. They are either time-only or time-and-strike. Most were time-only to minimize distractions in the office environment. Some are very attractive and have unique designs and are more decorative than utilitarian. This one above is called a World Time Clock by Kienzle.
Wall Clock
German Mauthe Box clock
A wall clock is broadly defined as any clock designed to be hung on a wall, making it a practical and visible timekeeping solution. Wall clocks come in various styles, from simple and functional designs to highly decorative pieces. This one by Mauthe is often described as a German “box” clock which became popular after the First World War and made into the 1940s.
Schoolhouse Clock
Ansonia schoolhouse clock
They are known as schoolhouse clocks because they hung in many schoolrooms in North America. Usually distinctive by their octagon shape and short or long drop feature with a glass door displaying a swinging pendulum. Many thousands were made; they had cheap mass-produced softwood cases and robust movements. Most were time-only though some were time and strike and others even included a calendar function.
When they were marketed years ago they were not called “schoolhouse clocks” but rather, clocks made for the schoolroom.
Novelty Clock
Chairman Mao Zetong waving as the clock ticks
These clocks are designed for the tourist trade with interesting features. In the case of the above clock, a smiling Mao Zedong has his little red book in hand and is waving “to the masses” as the clock ticks.
Ogee Clock
Waterbury OG clock
It is so-called because of the curved molded wood case. It might also be referred to as an OG clock. The design originated in the United States in the 1830s, distinguished by a case (usually pine) the front outer edges of which are curved into an S-shape (Ogee). This shape is formed by the union of a convex and a concave line. A mass-produced variant of the shelf clock, the Ogee clock typically stands about 30 inches (75 cm) high and is usually weight-driven. The movements were generally made of brass (earlier ones were made of wood) and ran for 30 hours or eight days. This is a 30-hour weight-driven version from the 1870s.
Tall Case Clock
Ridgeway Hamilton Country, Westminster chime
Tall case clocks are known by various names depending on the region. They are referred to as tall-case clocks in American terminology, long-case clocks in British terminology, hall clocks in Canada, and sometimes as floor clocks. However, the most commonly used term is “grandfather clock.”
They are usually weight-driven, with the weights on chains or cables, and are distinctive by their obvious height. They are always 6 feet or over but can be as high as 8 feet high (1.8 to 2.4 meters). They often feature elaborately carved ornamentation on the hood (or bonnet), the frames, the throat, and the dial or clock face. Older ones have 30-hour movements but all modern grandfather clocks run on an 8-day cycle.
Smaller clocks are called grandmother and granddaughter clocks. They are under 6 feet.
Anniversary Clock
Kundo standard size 400-day clock
These clocks are also called torsion clocks or 400-day clocks. 400-day clocks are torsion driven having a long suspension spring to which a weight oscillates back and forth. Typically these clocks operate at 8 beats per minute and run for long cycles on a single wind, up to 400 days. These clocks were popular as wedding gifts or gifts to mark special occasions. They are relatively simple to repair but can be finicky to set up. The newer quartz clocks are very accurate but do not replace the charm and curiosity of the older mechanical ones.
Some might call them purely decorative.
Tower Clock
Tower clock in Holguin, Cuba
In the early 14th century large mechanical clocks began to appear in the towers of Italian cities. There is no record of any working models preceding these public clocks that were weight-driven and regulated by verge-and-foliot escapements. They are referred to as Turret clocks in the UK.
In conclusion, while there are sub-categories for some of the clocks described above, this overview provides a general understanding of the commonly used terms. Having this knowledge can be especially helpful when shopping for a special gift or identifying the style of clock you may have in your possession.
Mercedes makes a great car. Do they make clocks? No! Is this Mercedes novelty timepiece a great clock? Read on.
Attractive ceramic clock with time-only movement
This very attractive 30-hour Mercedes ceramic mechanical shelf clock of the Baroque Meissen style (debatable) from the 1970s is more of a novelty item than a clock.
It is a time-only alarm clock movement made by Gebrüder Hauser and marketed under several names one of which is Mercedes. Ceramic clocks on eBay or any other auction sites will reveal the Mercedes name as well as other retail names on similar-looking clocks. For example here is a similarly styled Alana clock. Same casting sans gold detailing.
The Alana, similar to Mercedes but without the gold-colored accents
This Mercedes novelty clock is in excellent condition with no chips, cracks or any sign of wear. But is it worth anything? Not a lot.
History of the company
The Gebrüder Hauser clock factory (Die Uhrenfabrik Gebrüder Hauser) was founded in 1923 by Otto and Josef Hauser in Weigheim, Germany. Josef Hauser resigned in 1926 and moved on to form his own company. The company name Gebrüder Hauser then received an additional owner, Otto Hauser.Aside from alarm clocks, clocks with pendulums and chess clock works were produced.
Spring winder, time set screw and speed lever on rear of the clock
In 1951, the son, Eduard Hauser joined the company.From 1955 onward small affordable alarm clocks and chess clockworks were manufactured.In 1965 Norbert Hauser joined the company and the company name was changed to KG.
The Gebrüder Hauser KG clock factory in Weigheim was eventually closed on 31 July 1998.
Are they common?
There are a number of variants of this clock, mechanical, electrical, and quartz. The mechanical version will command higher prices and is more desirable. Unfortunately, they are throwaway clocks and the cost of servicing would be far more than they are worth.
Nevertheless, it makes for an attractive mantelpiece and as a gift, it is likely the recipient will not keep it wound.
Case is in fair condition, dial face has some flaking, piece broken on left side of base
We have a couple of antique stores in our small town. Calling them antique stores is a bit of a stretch because there is usually more junk inside than actual antiques. We were shopping in the area of one of those “antique” stores and my wife turned to me and said, “Let’s go in”. I replied, “You know, all they have is junk”.
I thought, I might have found something important
I acquiesced. While she continued her shopping I went on ahead to look around the store and in the very back I saw a very sad looking clock that at I took for an old Sessions or a Waterbury. As I neared the clock it piqued my interest and I began to see that it was quite old. I picked it up, looked for any markings on the dial face, found none then checked the back of the clock and discovered most of an intact label revealing a what I consider to be a significant find.
Back label in good condition for the age of the clock
It is a clock from the Canada Clock Company. The Hamilton Cottage Extra was one of a range of clocks in their Metropolitan line.
This is an important discovery. The owner of the store knew nothing about clocks. He was asking $99 but after a bit of haggling, we settled on $40. I knew that it was worth much more.
Here is an excerpt on the Canada Clock Co. found at the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River Ontario (Canada).
This company was the last of three sequential attempts to produce clocks by factory methods in Canada during the 1872 – 1884 period. The original effort by the Canada Clock Company in Whitby, Ontario was basically unsuccessful and only limited production was achieved.
In 1876, the equipment was relocated to Hamilton, Ontario to begin a second attempt as the Hamilton Clock Company, with new investors. This attempt was more successful and a fairly wide range of clocks was produced. However, sales were not very large and some of the investors left the company by 1879. At that point the president, James Simpson, ended production and proceeded with a major reorganization.
The company subsequently became the Canada Clock Company using the old Hamilton Clock Company factory and resumed production in 1880 but as a result of poor sales closed its doors in 1884.
Clocks from the Canada Clock Co.are sought after by collectors. For international readers this represents a rare find because the 1870s to the mid 1880s was a very important period for clock production in Canada. Apart from several independent clock-makers in Quebec and eastern Canada two notable companies made wholly Canadian clocks, The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. of Kitchener Ontario made clocks up to 1941 and Martin Cheney of Montreal made finely crafted clocks in the early 1820s. This clock was made at the Hamilton, Ontario factory which produced clocks from 1880 to 1884.
Original count wheel time and strike 30 hour movement
The 30-hour time and (bell) strike movement is in remarkably good condition and fairly clean. The back label in good condition for the age of the clock and there is a stamp on the top of the label which says, “…A Hill &Co.”. If any Hamiltonians are reading this I would be grateful if you could make inquires about this small retailer.
My preliminary examination reveals that this clock has had very few repairs over the years. I have not taken the movement out of its case to check bushing/gear wear and other issues but I am initially encouraged. The case reflects the age of the clock but I would judge the clock to be in just fair condition. There is a wooden piece that needs to be re-attached on the right side of the base. Fortunately that piece was tucked inside the clock case.
Right side needs work
Left side looks good
100+ years of grime came off easily; etched glass on the bottom part of the tablet is distinctive
The crudely made case is not overly decorative and reflects a muted Victorian style of the times. The lower part of the tablet has an etched glass floral design typically found in Canada Clock Company clocks. The door clasp is original. The dial face is flaked in places and not in the best of condition though the 2 floral designs on each bottom corner are nicely preserved. The hands are original. The case is not heavy and made of pine with a deep walnut stained finish. It was grimy and dirty as expected. It cleaned it up nicely with Murphy’s soap and a sharp hobby knife was used to remove the numerous paint drops on the clock. Why folks do not put something over the clock when painting a room amazes me.
I will put the clock aside until I can determine my next steps. Do I pursue a full restoration including renewing the dial face or leave the clock largely in as-found condition? In the meantime I will re-attach the wood piece on the left side of the base.
Is clock collecting (and repair) part of the counter-technology revolution?
Many years ago, social scientists predicted with the onset of modern technology it would sap us of our knowledge. Our brains would simply melt away. Concentration and initiative would be sucked out of us. Why would you need to know anything if it is readily available at your fingertips? How often do you hear the phrase, “just google it”. Sadly, it has become an integral part of our lexicon.
People are embracing old technology and returning to the fulfillment of doing things for themselves
The term counter-technology is not a term I invented. I found it mentioned in a car magazine article some time ago. Many people are collecting and repairing antique cars more than ever. Why? Reliving past memories? Getting your hands dirty. Rejecting the modern world?
Has the analogue world returned? Yes and no. Wine and beer making has become a huge industry and there seem to be mom and pop microbreweries everywhere, antique furniture purchases have increased dramatically, backyard chicken coops are popping up everywhere, fountain pen collecting is a “new” thing, vinyl records are spinning back and stamp collecting is returning with renewed vigor.
Retro is in. But is is not just that! It is a statement. People are embracing old technology and returning to the fulfillment of doing things for themselves. We all know the value and satisfaction of pursuing a simpler way of life but at the same time we still want to feel connected to our busy modern world. We want both. This is our inevitable response to the new digital world. We are pushing back but just enough to satisfy our needs by remaining connected with the past but we still feel the need to be plugged in.
However, every now and then we feel the need to dis-engage. Digital detoxification. It’s a thing. Somehow we want to wash the digital world from our lives, however briefly. I spend summers at our family cottage in Quebec (Canada). There is no Internet and I am totally fine with that. But what’s the first thing I do when I return home? You got it!
You too can be saved
Simplicity breeds complexity
To truly embrace the analogue world the mechanical clock is my personal statement. Not only do I collect antique and vintage clocks I repair them as well. As readers know I am not a trained horologist but I love the challenge of repairing a clock and I love accumulating knowledge in the pursuit of my hobby. Needless to say I am not always successful and my office has a few notable failures. I am fine with that. Failure breeds learning. It is my response to the increasing pressures of the digital world. It is my response to our increasingly complicated world. Simplicity breeds complexity.
Like the juggler who can keep all the balls in the air at once
It took 2 years to learn the skills necessary to repair this Sessions Westminster A chime clock
Analogue verses digital. It is a question of balance, like the juggler who can keep all the balls in the air at once. I admire people who have “analogue” hobbies but I especially admire those who remain connected to our modern world by maintaining a delicate balance between both.
Among the most common parlor clocks, E.N. Welch clocks are relatively scarce. A key reason is that the company was absorbed by Sessions in 1903. The history of Welch is intriguing, as Welch, Spring & Co. initially focused on producing high-end clocks but eventually shifted to manufacturing cheaper, heavily discounted mass-market clocks—a move that likely contributed to its decline.
E. N. Welsh Whittier model
This time-and-trike American clock with a count wheel strike is an antique store find. I found it at what I would call a higher-end antique store in a small village in Quebec during one of our day travels from our summer cottage. I liked it so much I bought it. Because the strike side did not function there was a slight reduction in price.
The clock ran for several days and kept good time, but it was in desperate need of a cleaning. I was unable to get the strike side to run, though I hoped to fix it eventually. All the strike-side parts appeared to be present, but someone had clearly tampered with the levers, bending them significantly. It’s impossible to fully assess the situation until I take the movement apart.
Barely readable label and someone determined that this clock should be hung on a wall
History of E N Welch
The E. N. Welch Mfg. Co. was formed on July 6, 1864 to succeed an older private firm making clocks under the name of E. N. Welch. Elisha N. Welch (1809 to 1887) had been making clocks at a factory site on East Main Street at Forestville, Conn. since taking over the bankrupt business of J. C. Brown in about 1856.
A movement shop was established in 1869, adding to the two factories already in use by the firm. Between 1868 and 1884, a subsidiary firm called Welch, Spring & Company was formed to produce a more expensive line of clocks. The company was formed by three clock enthusiasts; Welch, Solomon Crosby Spring and Benjamin Bennet Lewis. The Welch firm was well known for its handsome rosewood cases, though in 1885, with changing styles in furniture, the surviving firm began to introduce new models with solid walnut cases and discontinued some of the older rosewood veneered cases.
Elisha Welch was enamored of a lovely (but very liberal-thinking) diva of the day from Spain by the name of Adelina Patti. He named his best quality movement after her, called the “Patti” movement. Clocks with this movement are highly sought after by serious collectors. However, Examples of “Patti” clocks at any of the international auction sites are rare.
After the death of Elisha Welch in 1887, the firm steadily declined, selling off some of its assets and issuing new stock to raise much needed capital. A new line of clocks was introduced for 1893, which were cheaper in quality than their already discounted line. In May of that year the factory was closed down and a receiver was appointed The receiver spent nearly two years selling off stock and settling the debts of the firm. It was not until 1896 that the firm resumed production.
In 1899, two fires, one in March and a second in December reduced most of the Welch manufacturing complex to ashes. Despite the completion of a new brick factory in 1900, the company could not meet its liabilities. Meanwhile, members of the wealthy Sessions family were buying out former stockholders and eventually took control of the firm in 1902. They changed the name to the Sessions Clock Company on January 9, 1903.
E. N. Welch clocks made before 1880 are considerably more desirable as these represent the height of the company’s clock-making. Clocks made before 1880 generally command higher auction prices. Compared to companies like Seth Thomas and Waterbury instances of E. N. Welsh clocks coming up on auction sites are becoming quite uncommon.
Stay tuned for more! In Part II, I will describe the Whittier and highlight some of its interesting features. In Part III, I will share my progress and discuss any challenges I encounter while servicing the movement.
There is no maker’s mark anywhere on the case or the movement
The clock is an unsigned 8-day carriage clock in a rectangular brass case. This attractive little clock has a white enameled dial with Roman numerals, blued steel hands and a spring driven time-only movement with platform lever escapement visible through the top beveled glass. The brass case has 4 beveled glass panels complete with a fold-down travel handle.
In taking the movement apart to clean it I can see “73” stamped on the bottom of the case, the case handle, the door edge and 2 or three places on the movement and the letter “B” on the back of the front plate but no maker’s mark. What do the numbers mean? I think it is an internal production stamp. Thousands of these generic carriage clocks were made and I may never know the maker. The only taper pins on this movement are those that attach the dial face to the movement. However, judging from what see and its general construction I would comfortably date this clock to the 1880s.
The movement plates are secured by screws rather than taper pins. Older carriage clocks would have taper pins securing the movement plates. This clock would have been produced for the English market since it has “S”and “F” stamped on the escapement (Slow and Fast). The key has “France” inscribed on it so if it is original, then the clock is French.
Unsigned French Carriage Clock
Time-only carriage clocks are relatively easy to work on although the platform escapement takes a extra care. I chose not to service the escapement at this time.
First, let the mainspring down to release the power. If you take a wound clock apart it can injure you. Some of the compression points between cogs can have a very high gearing so even a weakly wound clock has the capacity to trap or pinch your fingers as well as throwing out and damaging components. I use a let down key that can be purchased at any clock supply house.
Carriage clock platform escapement
Movement side view, re-assembled
Taking the movement out of the case involves releasing 4 machine screws in the base. I use several elastic bands to keep the glass in place while I lift the sides and door off the base. When holding the clock firmly observe the effect of loosening the screws. The pillars have become loose and the glass can now move a little in the frame. If you unscrew all the screws completely without understanding that the glass is loose, it is too easy for the glass panels to slide out and break. They are not easy to replace! I’ll describe my work on glass cleaning later.
There are two screws which hold the base to the movement. Unscrew those and proceed to take off the front face. The enameled face is secured by 4 taper pins. In my case they were difficult to get out so I decided to take the back plate off the movement to allow my pliers inside to release the pins. Removing the platform escapement requires releasing 4 very tiny screws. A precision slotted screwdriver is absolutely necessary. It is best to unscrew all 4 together and leave them in place once off the movement so you do not have to fiddle with them when reattaching the escapement later, unless, of course, you intend to service the escapement.
Back plate after a cleaning
I then separate the plates and inspect the wheels, pinions, pivots and pivot holes. I found a little bit of play in two pivot holes only observable with a loupe but not enough for bushing work. I polished the pivots, pegged the pivot holes and cleaned the wheels, plates and other pieces except the platform escapement in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Assembly of the movement is relatively simple as there are so few gears. Attaching the hour hand was interesting, however. Both the hour and minute hands are pressure fit, but the hour hand was a challenge because I had to use a screwdriver to push the hour shaft forward (gently) through the clock face while simultaneously attaching the hour hand. It was very tight. After a number of tries I managed to press it in securely.
It is actually quite small
Back to the glass. It is also important to put each panel back where it belongs. I discovered that there is a top and bottom orientation to each glass panel, they are cut so fine! There is enough resistance if you try to put the wrong end into the channels you will encounter difficulty. Each glass panel is taken out and cleaned with Windex and, of course, put back exactly how they came out.
Once everything is assembled the clock is oiled, wound and the time is set. Polishing the brass case is the final step. Brasso was used to clean up the brass and bring the clock back to its former glory.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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