Halifax Explosion and the Junghans Crispi clock – Part III – the case

This is an antique German Junghans time and strike spring driven clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. As I mentioned previously, it came to me as a box of parts. To some a box of clock parts and pieces is discouraging but to me it is a challenge.

This is Part III of a three part series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock.

This is Part III of a three part series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock. In Part I described the circumstances by which I came across this clock and it’s incredible story as a survivor of the Halifax Explosion on Dec 6, 1917. In Part II I walk the reader through the servicing of the time and strike movement.

The movement is in exceptional condition despite the fact that it is very dirty

I discovered that the movement is in exceptional condition despite the fact that it is very dirty. I put the movement aside and decided to attend to the case as the first step in this project. As I mentioned in Part I, I ordered some trim pieces / parts and I am awaiting their arrival. In the meantime I can work on refreshing the case.

The first photo shows the case just after a soap and water cleaning. I use Murphy’s Soap exclusively, it does a very good job of cleaning. It eliminates the scum and build-up of dirt and grease over the years and allows me to see the original finish. I can then decide how to address further work on the case.

In the next photo the right final that my wife is holding on the crown is actually a bottom left or right finial since the top requires somewhat taller finials that I do not have but have ordered from a supplier.

It is important when using stain that the excess be wiped off after about 20 minutes to minimize buildup and to speed drying.

In the next photo I have applied 2 coats of Mission Oak stain to the lighter parts of the clock. At east one or two further coats are required. Stain is easy to work with and simple to apply with a small flat half inch artist brush. It is important when using stain that the excess be wiped off after about 20 minutes to minimize buildup and to speed drying.

rs-clock-progress-junghans — After two coats of stain and checking how the dial and pendulum would look like

I arranged the pendulum and dial in the case to visualize how it will look once finished. The dial is enameled and exceptionally clean and free of cracks, marks or abrasions. The brass bezel and pendulum have been cleaned up with Brasso and show very well.

It looks like the choice of Mission Oak stain was the correct decision

After the third coat of stain to the unfinished sections of the frame, the case is looking more even in colour. It looks like the choice of Mission Oak stain was the correct decision.

Bracket returned to the case, gong is in the wrong location

I cleaned the movement bracket and returned it and the coil gong to the case. In the above shot you can see where the new pieces are nicely matched colour-wise to the older sections of the case.

In this next shot you are actually looking at the case turned upside down. These two finials were cleaned up, given a light coating of stain and are re-attached.

The amateur woodworker before me decided that since there was only one tall finial it should go on the bottom.

The bottom centre finial was attached to the case when I got the clock but in my view it is too long and should be on the crown section of the clock instead. I believe that the amateur woodworker before me decided that since only one tall finial survived, it should go on the bottom. I will leave it in place for the moment and wait till I see it on the wall before deciding whether to replace it with a shorter finial or I may just trim it a little shorter.

An oak spindle that I bought at a hardware store for $5 did the trick

The top crown requires left and right bases for the finials which I crafted out of an oak spindle that I bought at a hardware store for $5.

Here is one of the bases with one coat of Mission oak stain. Once it is dry it will be attached to the left or right side of the crown and the finial will be mounted on top of it.

Next is attaching the bases to the left and right sides of the crown and designing a centre support post for the crown, yet another use for the oak spindle. The centre post is also the anchor point for the centre top finial.

Location of left finial — Location of left crown finial

Centre crown support post fashioned from the oak spindle

I am trying to determine if the clock ever had wall stabilizers? Normally they are attached to the bottom left and right of the case with two anchor screws (for each stabilizer) as you can see in the next photo.

Stabilizer on a single weight Vienna wall clock

Given that the clock is 41 inches tall it seems very likely that it did have them originally although I see no sign of old screw holes. Perhaps it didn’t.

Hanger re-installed — Hanger re-attached

I have re-attached the case hanger. Purists, please ignore the Robertson screws which were employed by the previous owner when he rebuilt the case. I might replace them with Flathead screws but it is what it is and I can live with it if I don’t.

Decorative nails polished — Movement and dial out of case and decorative nails polished

In the first photo I show the movement attached movement (still not serviced at this point) to the bracket hanger, put the hands back on and attached the pendulum. In the second I have taken the movement our for servicing but have taken all the decorative nails off, gave them a polish and re-attached them. There are still some small trim pieces missing in these last two shots as well as parts of the crown piece notably the finials. And of course there is no glass. I am checking out old windows suppliers in the local area to see what they have in classic wavy glass appropriate to the period.

At this point there have been no significant setbacks. All is proceeding as planned.

January 25, 2017

Halifax Explosion and the Junghans Crispi clock – Part II – servicing the movement

Movement on test stand prior to cleaning

This is an antique German Junghans time and strike spring driven clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. It came to me as a box of parts. To some a box of clock parts and pieces is discouraging but to me it is a challenge.

Part II of a three part series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock.

This is Part II of a three part series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock. In Part I described the circumstances by which I came across this clock and it’s incredible story as a survivor of the Halifax Explosion of Dec 6, 1917.

This is a German count-wheel strike typically found in the lower lines of Mauthe, HAC and similar clocks. It is an open plate “bread and butter” movement, not of the highest of quality but well built and reliable. The count wheel is located to the rear between the plates and the mainsprings are enclosed in open barrels. There are no helper springs to worry about and all of the wheels are located in the centre and the upper side of the movement.

As you can see in the next two photos the movement was very dirty and I accepted the risk of running it for a day to see what issues might arise. I gave the pivots holes plenty of oil to mitigate any additional wear. What I found was a sticky hammer assembly that would malfunction intermittently which I attributed to dirt and grime buildup, otherwise the movement ran very well after not having run for 100 years. Imagine all that kinetic energy stored in the springs since 1917.

The movement is relatively easy to re-assemble but I had to install the lower centre wheel, the spring barrels and the centre cannon together with the top plate and then slide the gears in between the plates. Fortunately this process is not as difficult as it sounds but very different than laying the top plate right over the gears as you would in an American movement.

Mainspring barrel with years of dirt showing

I gave the pivots holes plenty of oil in the testing phase to mitigate any additional wear

I found everything within acceptable limits and decided that bushing work was not required

The accumulated grime of 100+ years came off following the ultrasonic cleaning. In fact I have never seen the ultrasonic solution so dirty. The plates cleaned up very well and I gave them an additional polishing with Brasso. After the parts came out of the ultrasonic I tested the movement for any evidence of excessive play and found everything within acceptable limits and decided that bushing work was not required. The pivot holes were pegged and the pivots were polished.

Springs were inspected and cleaned — Springs were inspected, cleaned and oiled

There were no cracks or unusual issues with the mainsprings though I found it curious that they were very clean with no rust. There was also very little lubricant remaining. The springs are somewhat tired as you might expect but I think there is enough power remaining for a full cycle so I decided not to replace them at this point. I applied Keystone mainspring oil to the springs once I returned them to their barrels.

With the movement back together, it is time to adjust the strike side. The strike wheels must be set up correctly with respect to each other ensuring that the third (hammer lifting star wheel) and fourth wheels (the strike cam) align with he count wheel. The warning pin on the last wheel (which actually protrudes from the plate) has to be high enough for sufficient rotation. In order to count the strikes properly this relationship must be right. Unfortunately, I can never get this correct the first time.

The servicing of the movement is not without headaches, however.

The servicing of the movement is not without headaches, however. I bent a pivot on the warning wheel which I managed to successfully straighten out. The hammer arbor paddle was barely touching the star wheel and while trying to adjust it, I accidentally snapped it off along with the retaining spring. Although the clock will go though the strike sequence the gong will obviously not sound. I don’t have the tools to put in a new paddle so I will have to get that attended to somehow. I managed to correctly adjust the strike side but the clock mysteriously stops after about an hour or so. Something is definitely amiss and more investigation is required.

I have had more success with the case restoration that you will read about in Part III. In the meantime I have to constantly remind myself that this movement has not been running in 100 years!

January 20, 2017

Postscript to my article on a stubborn little Blackforest clock

Time-only German "plate clock" movement — Time-only German “plate clock” movement

In my article I said

I have been testing the movement with mixed results. I installed one bushing on T3 after which the movement ran better. It is in beat and will run but not for as long as I would like. Why can’t this little guy run a full eight days? The best it can do is 4-5 days. Perhaps a mainspring issue; too weak to give me a full eight day cycle? A pity because I truly wanted to have this thing running strong and reliably. Being a glutton for punishment I have another plate clock coming in the mail. I am not absolutely sure if it has the same movement but I am willing to bet that it does since it is another Forestville (same company), this time a true delft clock.

The clock is midway through it’s second 8-day cycle and sounds very strong. Why this little clock suddenly decided to behave itself is beyond me. Perhaps cursing at it helped. It is such a simple little shelf clock and it looks great.

Just needed some exercise after not having run in many years. So, a happy ending to this clock story.

January 18, 2017

Halifax Explosion and the Junghans Crispi clock – Part I – the plan

This is what happens when you get a clock in a box. Call it a collection of parts, pieces and dust. This is an antique German Junghans time and strike spring driven clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. There is no serial number on the movement, dating the clock to 1899 or earlier (in 1900 Junghans began to number their movements). To some a box of clock pieces is discouraging but to me it is a challenge.

It was advertised on a local online for-sale site as a clock that fell off a wall during the Halifax Explosion and I thought, well, that’s an intriguing story! As most Canadians know, the Halifax Explosion was a significant event in Canada 100 years ago.

On the morning of 6 December 1917 the SS Mont Blanc a French cargo ship laden with high explosives and Benzol collided with the Norwegian vessel SS Imo in the Narrows, a strait connecting the upper Halifax harbour to Bedford Basin. A fire on board the French ship ignited her cargo, causing a large explosion that devastated the Richmond District of Halifax. Approximately 2,000 people were killed by blast, debris, fires and collapsed buildings, and an estimated 9,000 others were injured.

The result was the largest human-made explosion prior to the detonation of the first atomic bombs in 1945. Nearly all structures within an 800-metre (2,600 ft) radius, including the entire community of Richmond, were obliterated. This clock is a witness to that day. In 1918, Halifax sent a Christmas tree to the City of Boston in thanks and remembrance for the help that the Boston Red Cross and the Massachusetts Public Safety Committee provided immediately after the disaster. That tradition carries through to this day.

The case is cleaned up and we are visualizing where the parts go

It appears that the parts have literally sat in a box for the past 100 years.

The blast not only shattered the glass panels but heavily damaged the box frame. It appears that most of the parts have literally sat in a box for the past 100 years. I cannot imagine when the movement last worked, probably ticking its last on that fateful morning in December. Since the box frame was damaged beyond repair following the explosion, the seller, an amateur woodworker, built a new frame made of softwood and oak veneers some 30 years ago. You can see the lighter coloured pieces in the photo below that were never stained and finished. He admits that he knows nothing about clocks and eventually lost interest in the project. I am impressed with his skills since the work on the frame looks solid and well constructed.

Top centre final is missing as well as two other finials

The top centre final is missing, two other finials and some small trim pieces

Why was he letting it go? He said there had been a change in his life and it was time to move on. When I asked him about the history of the clock he said that his wife’s grandparents lived on Princess Place in North End Halifax. Princess Place is further south of the main area of devastation so houses in that area would have sustained heavy structural damage. The clock was blown off the wall by the blast wave. The clock remained in the family all these years, the seller having received it from his wife’s aunt.

I took it home stared at the box for a while trying to decided whether or not I made the right decision. I then set to determine what steps I should take to restore this fine clock. I poked through the box to see what was there and began to itemize the parts, arranging them on the case as best I could and proceeded to clean the case and determine the next steps. I was fortunate to have had someone send me the actual catalog image of the clock which you can see below.

The clock is called the Crispi by Yunghans. Yunghans is a reputable German clock-maker and continues in the watch business to this day. This is what the clock should look like and it will be a excellent guide for restoration. There will be obviously be some subtle differences between my clock and the clock in the catalog when the project is completed but to the casual eye it will look exactly the same.

The Crispi in the 1902 Yunghans catalog — The Crispi model in the 1902 Junghans catalog

Time and strike movement — Time and count-wheel strike movement

I have ordered the following parts from Timesavers; 3 new finials in the style that best fits the clock, 2 door hinges, 2 door latches and some trim pieces. I will have to build the bases for the finials from scratch. The lower section of an oak spindle will do just fine. There are other trim items that are missing but I will strategically arrange the remaining trim pieces as best I can.

The best news is that the movement is complete and in working order. The movement ran for a day on a test stand before I stopped it. It needs a very thorough cleaning which will be the next step in this project.

In Part II I will describe cleaning the movement and any issues that may arise as a result of disassembly.

In Part III I will explain the procedures involved in the case restoration once the remaining parts arrive.

An exciting little project indeed!

January 15, 2017

Ship of Theseus and antique clock restoration

Last month I posted a article on Minimal Invasive Intervention in which I posed the question, how far do you go to repair, restore or conserve a clock without changing it in a significant way? I was having a discussion with my daughter who is a civil engineer and she raised the philosophical argument that questions whether an object like a clock that has had all of its components replaced remains fundamentally the same object. This paradoxical thought experiment exercise is called the Ship of Theseus. Plutarch, a Greek philosopher, asked whether a ship that had been restored by replacing every single wooden part remained the same ship.

The ship wherein Theseus and the youth of Athens returned from Crete had thirty oars, and was preserved by the Athenians down even to the time of Demetrius Phalereus, for they took away the old planks as they decayed, putting in new and stronger timber in their places, in so much that this ship became a standing example among the philosophers, for the logical question of things that grow; one side holding that the ship remained the same, and the other contending that it was not the same.

— Plutarch, Theseus^[2]

In Nova Scotia we have a sailing ship called the Bluenose II. It is the pride on our province, an important tourist attraction and our provincial ambassador. The original Bluenose was a fishing and racing schooner that ran aground and sank some 90 years ago. To honour the original Bluenose, the Bluenose II was built in the 1960s and she sailed for over 50 years before it was determined that she was in need of significant restoration. In the last 4 years the hull of the Bluenose II has been completely rebuilt. Some of the original vessel is being reused including: rigging, masts, sails, ironwork, deck structures, safety equipment and electronics. In time the masts, sails, rigging and deck structures and other components will be replaced. Will the ship be fundamentally the same? Will it retain it’s identity?

french-fusee1 — Early English lantern clock

frecnh-fusee-3 — English lantern clock converted to fusee movement

Let’s look at another example, the lantern clock. The lantern clock, a weight driven wall clock shaped like a lantern were the first type of clock widely used in English private homes in the 17th century. With the arrival of long-case clocks with 8-day movements the lantern clock became obsolete. Lantern clocks are very collectible today and those that are in “original” condition are the most desirable. The problem with lantern clocks is that almost all of them have been altered, even those regarded as totally genuine. In this example I will cite a quote from a seller of lantern clocks, D. and J. Benson, specialists in early English clocks.

We are strong believers that if a clock was converted to a different escapement many years ago, this should be retained, being part of the history of the clock, rather than reconverting clocks back to former guises. Only under compelling circumstances would a clock be returned to a former state. Only absolutely necessary restoration work is carried out in order that the original clock survives for future generations. We conserve rather than replace.

Some of the more expensive lantern clocks they offer for sale have early conversions from verge to anchor escapement. Later ones had the original movements removed and a fusee movement (single or double) installed. When converted original movements including alarm mechanisms were taken out, a single-hand was replaced with two hands (or the minute hand added), broken finals and door handles might have replaced, chapter rings re-silvered, doors are often lost due to their nature of lifting out easily. Therefore, what is the nature of the clock after it has been changed, how original is it and does it retain its identity?

One clock collector might have the opinion that if too much is done to restore a clock it is not fundamentally the same and cannot be considered original even though the new parts were made from the same materials and using the same methods when the clock was first made. Another might have the opinion that changes or alterations to the clock that bring it back to its original look and function including the making of new parts make it more “original” and therefore more desirable. Moreover, if the changes are not recognized by the observer, is the clock original?

Furthermore, if one replaces one part at a time on a clock so that at some point all parts are replaced, at what point does a clock no longer become the same clock? It follows that if you take all of those parts and make a “new” clock which of the two clocks is original? What is the nature of the clock’s identity since no two objects can occupy the same identity.

I am sure that those of you who are collectors have experienced the dilemma of identity. I know that when I bought my first Vienna Regulator I began to realize that many parts were replaced over the years and it made me wonder to what extent the clock is original. It is an unwinnable argument and I began to accept the notion that it may not matter to me or to a casual observer who may view the clock as completely original.

January 10, 2017

The schoolhouse clock that was never called the schoolhouse clock

My recent acquisition of another schoolhouse clock stimulated my curiosity and prompted me to do some research on the origin of the name. In this article I will describe my thoughts on how the schoolhouse clock came to be and my most recent Sessions wall clock purchase.

During my research I found it very interesting that little can be found regarding the history of the schoolhouse clock. I realize that many older readers growing up in the rural areas of Canada and elsewhere in North American have fond memories of the one-room schoolhouse with a large clock in either the front or the back of a classroom. I did not live that experience rather, when I was young and attending a large urban school the Simplex master / slave clock is the one I remember best.

The schoolhouse clock that I bought recently adds to my modest collection of three schoolhouse clocks. Given that I spent many years as an educator, it seems only fitting that I would have an interest in schoolhouse clocks. My schoolhouse clocks are all a similar style; short drop octagon, constructed of oak, brass dial bezel, bottom glazed access sash, 12 inch dial or 9 inches as in this case of this clock and the Waterbury pictured below. Although 9 inch clocks were used in schoolhouses they were also found in office or workplace settings.

They were not called a schoolhouse clock when they were made

Schoolhouse clocks were the standard design for early North American school houses because of their larger, easy to read dials. These distinctive clocks were hung in many schools rooms across Canada. The majority had simple but tough time-only movements and some even came with a calendar function. Occasionally they were ordered with time and strike movements but the cheapest and most popular versions were time-only. This type of clock had a very utilitarian look and function.

They were not always called schoolhouse clocks. None of the labels on my clocks have the word “schoolhouse” written on them and are either described as a”drop Octagon” in the case of this Sessions or have a specific model name. The term schoolhouse clock was not applied to them when they were made but came to be known as a particular style of clock found in school settings by later collectors. If a particular style was ordered by a school authority makers might have informally described them as clocks for schools or “school clocks”. In any event, the term has become a permanent part of the clock collector language.

With a swinging pendulum visible from a distance the clock can easily be seen running and the open-door bottom access sash allowed for restarting and adjusting the rate. In some clock collecting circles it is said that schoolhouse clocks are a derivative of the English drop dial fusee clock, an example of which can be seen here. Drop dials were produced in the late 18th through to the 19th century and closely resembled the schoolhouse clock. Unlike spring-driven schoolhouse clocks, fusee clocks have conical construction from which a chain or gut-line is pulled by the mainspring barrel allowing the power of the mainspring to be released evenly thus assuring better accuracy.

When I am in the process of buying a clock I always ask the seller this question. “How much do you know about this clock?”

When I am in the process of buying a clock I always ask the question. “How much do you know about this clock?”. I always ask this question because I am interested in a clock’s provenance and some of the stories are quite intriguing. The seller, a man in his late fifties, thought about it for a moment and said, “Well, I’ve had it since I was 14”. The clock came out of a decommissioned one-room schoolhouse in a small town called Springhill, Nova Scotia (Canada). However, when I first saw the clock I said to him, “It looks like a nice office clock”. The seller quickly corrected me and said, “It’s a schoolhouse clock”. “It runs for a little bit and then stops, maybe you can do something with it”, he added.

It is a 1920’s vintage Sessions Drop Octagon wall clock. It has a solid medium dark oak case with original hands, ornate pressed brass pendulum bob, solid brass bezel, 80% of an intact label on backboard, tin dial pan and stenciled lower glazing on the sash. The paper dial is original but it is heavily “foxed”. The movement is 8-day time only. The dimensions of the clock are a 9″ diameter dial, 19″ high, 13 1/2″ wide by 4″ deep. It is in reasonably good condition given it’s age and for $20 it was quite a bargain. It is also intact; there are no missing or broken pieces.

sessions-drop-octogon time-only movement — Sessions time-only movement

I don’t think this clock has been run in quite some time.

I took it home, hung it on the wall and true to what the seller said it would run less than a minute and stop. I noticed a rubbing sound around the pendulum area as it was running. The pendulum bob was hitting against the inside front of the case. I took the movement out and observed a bent crutch rod, corrected it, put it on a test stand and it ran immediately. As expected the movement had quite a bit of grime and required attention but it ran for a day before I took it apart for a thorough servicing. I don’t think this clock has been run in quite some time.

I found it curious that the suspension spring was soldered where the spring hooks into the top block. It likely kept slipping off and solder was used to keep it in place. In any event, the spring cannot be taken out without first removing the solder! The clock is in very good overall condition for it’s age and the movement was not as dirty as I first thought. The pivots are in decent condition for the most part and there is minimal wear overall. The movement was disassembled, cleaned and in the process I decided to install two bushings for added insurance, one on the escape wheel (front plate) and the other on an intermediate wheel (front plate). The movement was tested, put in beat and reinstalled back into it’s case.

I may replace the paper dial but I am going to see if I can live with it for the time being.

The dial has many brownish spots as you can see in the next photo. The clock had to have been in a moist environment for a long period for the paper to discolour. My two options are, one, leave as is or, two, replace with a paper dial. I may replace the paper dial but I am going to see if I can live with it for the time being. The brass bezel cleaned up well but the exposed tin surrounding the paper dial has blackish areas which I managed to reduce with CLR but could not totally eliminate. Of course, I later learned that CLR is really not appropriate for this purpose as it is an acid.

clock face showing rust staining — Dial showing rust staining

The case has years of grime which was easily remedied with Murphy’s soap and water. It cleaned up very nicely. Following the cleaning I gave the case a light coat of shellac to restore the luster of the oak. It looks good and it runs well.

My other drop octagon clocks are a Waterbury Arion, an unknown Ansonia and an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II.

rs-bezel-and-glass-on-a-waterbury-_1 — This Waterbury Arion is 19 inches long

RS April 16 — Ansonia short drop octagon, model unknown, 12 inch dial

AP repaired_3 — Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II, 12 inch dial

Time-only movements are the easiest to work on and a very good movement to learn on.

Time-only movements are the easiest to work on and a very good movement to learn on. If you are a beginner in clock collecting and repair clocks such as this are satisfying clocks to work on and presents few challenges. I am happy that I managed to bring this particular clock back to it’s former schoolhouse glory.

The term schoolhouse clock is a term that was not applied when they were made but came to be known as a particular style of clock found in school settings by later collectors. The schoolhouse clock is such an endearing name that when one thinks of a schoolhouse clock the memory of these specific styles of clock immediately comes to mind.

January 4, 2017

2016 – Time to reflect, a year in summary

Pendulum bob for Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock

I am a retired college professor based in Nova Scotia Canada, live in a little village just outside Truro and collect vintage and antique clocks that I repair and maintain. I also write about horological areas of interest and of interesting clocks and clock stories that I encounter on my travels.

In the spring of 2015 I decided to write a blog about clocks. The first few months were a struggle to decide what material would be of interest to those who not only collect antique and vintage clocks but those few with just a passing interest. As the months went by I began to realize that the world of clock collecting and repair is incredibly vast and I discovered that there is a lot for me to learn. As I expand my knowledge of clock and collecting and repair I am also realizing that there is a lot I do not know.

This blog has given me an opportunity to profile my own clock collection, walk the reader through the challenges of restoring and repairing my clocks and the learning I have gained from the experience as well as talking about horological areas of interest.

My office showing clock repair tools — My office showing tools and my work area

Let’s review 2016.

Some statistics. As I write this article my blog has exceeded 17,000 views, 33% of which are from United States, 17% are from Canada and the remainder are from around the world including the United Kingdom, Australia, Romania, Germany, India, The Netherlands, South Africa, Malaysia and 80 other countries, even 5 visitors from Cuba (and I thought they did not have access to the internet). I receive between 40-50 comments per month on average. The top 5 articles this year were:

Mauthe Mantel Clock
Daniel Dakota Wall Clock
Sessions Westminster A Mantel Clock
Forestville Mantel Clock
U.M. Muller Box Clock

As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back.

As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back. My visitors view an average of 1.8 articles per visit and I have 50-60 views on a typical day. I am now receiving as many views per month as I did in the first 8 months of the blog. My goal is to to provide enough stimulating content so that visitors want to return. I post 8 articles a month, usually spaced 4-5 days apart, on various topics of interest. I also attempt to appeal to all facets of clock collecting and repair from profiling my own acquisitions and experiences restoring and repairing my clocks to articles of general interest usually with some historical horological context.

Time side spring is removed — Servicing an American clock, removing the time mainspring

Centering prior to drilling — Bushing a movement using a centering tool

I have welcomed all comments and inquiries. I have received a number of fascinating comments from people who typically ask me how much their clock is worth, particular problems they have with their clock, information about the history of their clock and suggestions for improving my workflow. I answer all questions to the best of my ability but I make no pretense that I am a trained professional though my general knowledge of clock collecting and repair is growing exponentially. I have also received comments from those who more knowledgeable than I am and I welcome their expertise and perspective. I especially welcome the wisdom and insights from popular commenters such as JC and Catalin at Blog Timbrofil.

If you are a regular reader you will continue to see a number of what I hope are interesting clock articles in the months to come

Now it is time to look to 2017. My intent is to write interesting articles about clocks in general as well as continuing to profile my modest but expanding collection of antique and vintage clocks. I also intend to explore special areas of interest particularly my growing fascination with lantern clocks and crystal regulators. If you are a regular reader you will continue to see a number of what I hope are interesting clock articles in the months to come.

Stay tuned and if there is an area of interest you would like to see me to explore, drop me a quick note.

Thanks for your support.

December 31, 2016

Stubborn little plate clock movement

I prefer time-only clocks above anything else. They are simple to work on and because they are less complex they tend to be more accurate, relatively speaking. Most are easy to service but this little guy has me stumped.

Thousands of these relatively small German movements were made and some found their way into small shelf clocks like the ones I will be talking about in this article.

RS Blackforest mantel clock (64) — Time-only movement, German

Let’s not confuse these inexpensive clocks with better known and highly regarded Black Forest clocks of Germany

I acquired a couple of Blackforest shelf clocks about a year ago. Let’s not confuse these inexpensive clocks with better known and highly regarded Black Forest clocks of Germany. The clocks I will be discussing here were made by the Blackforest Clock Co. of Canada in the 1930s. Later on, during the war years (1941) the company felt compelled to change it’s name to the Forestville Clock Company of Canada. They sourced their movements from England during the war years and Germany prior to (and after) World War II. They are German time-only “plate-clock” movements. They are called plate clock movements because they were made to be placed behind decorative plates, commonly called delft porcelain wall clocks designed primarily for the kitchen. Many delft clocks had time-only movements just like the ones in these shelf clocks.

RS Refinished case (7) — King George VI Commemorative visit 1937

RS together but not working (2) — Blackforest Shelf (mantel) clock circa 1935

They are easy to find. Antique stores, junk shops, and thrift stores all have them. They are very cheap, usually quite stressed having spent most of their lives in basements, attics and garages and probably the last clock to leave the store shelf. They are always passed over for the “better” clocks. I buy them because they are cheap and relatively easy to bring back to life. The pictures you see here are clock cases that have been significantly refreshed. Here’s a before shot.

rs-blackforest-mantel-clock-48 — This is one very homely clock

Those who are familiar with time-only movements know they are relatively simple to work on

Since the mainspring in one clock snapped in two places I have combined the best parts of each one in an attempt to have a working movement for the most attractive looking clock which for me is the 1937 commemorative edition King George VI clock. I might just throw in a quartz movement for the other clock unless I find another plate clock movement. For those who are familiar with time-only movements they are relatively simple to work on. You might call them fun and a good challenge for those new to clock repair. The gears are small and the pivots are tiny but they are easy to dissemble and put back together. No helper springs and levers to worry about. Here are some shots of the movement.

RS shelf clock number 2 (2) — Movement inside the case

rs-plate-clock-movement — Parts of two movements are combined to make a working one, back plate is off

rs-plate-clock-movement_5 — All shined up and on the test stand

rs-plate-clock-movement_6 — Showing unique one piece pallet, verge and pendulum assembly

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA — All in one pallets, verge and pendulum rod and bob.

I have been testing the movement with mixed results. I installed one bushing on T3 after which the movement ran better. It is in beat and will run but not for as long as I would like. Why can’t this little guy run a full eight days? The best it can do is 4 days. Perhaps a mainspring issue; too weak to give me a full eight day cycle? A pity because I truly wanted to have this thing running strong and reliably. Being a glutton for punishment I have another plate clock coming in the mail. I am not absolutely sure if it has the same movement but I am willing to bet that it does since it is another Forestville, this time a true delft clock.

These often neglected clocks are great fun to work on. Total outlay for all three clocks – $55. Not bad!

December 26, 2016

9 reasons why you should buy a mechanical clock

Westclox display at the Candian Clock Museum

The world is changing and sadly, we are living in an increasingly throw-away society. We are taught at an early age that not many things are meant to last and using a throw-away product “guarantees” that the new product will function much better, but does it? I read a news article recently that Norway plans to introduce lower taxes on items that have been renewed or refurbished encouraging its citizens to reuse rather than dispose. Many would consider it a small but important step. It prompted me to write this article.

Here are 9 reasons why you should buy a mechanical clock.

1) Great for the environment. Clocks do not depend on electricity. We all agree that cutting your carbon footprint is always a good thing. Yes, you might think that a quartz clock is great for the environment since it lasts a long time and is both dependable and reliable when the power goes out but what happens when that battery fails. Where does that battery go? The landfill site, of course! Think about it, every part of mechanical clock is fully recyclable, the wood, the metal and the glass.

2) Prompts you to reconsider our disposable society: We are living in an increasingly disposable society. Collecting antique clocks may cause you to think about how you view other things in life, your place as a consumer in our society and how you can do your little bit to further the cause of preserving our environment. In this age of excessive over consumption it is refreshing that some things like a clock can be re-used, repaired and renewed.

one-weight Vienna wall clock — One-weight Vienna miniature wall clock, unmarked, circa 1870

3) Great in a power outage; During power outages your mechanical clock will keep on ticking. And tick it will as long as you wind it regularly. And during that power failure you will also notice that the only thing you will hear will be the sound of your ticking clock above the eerie silence of the house.

4) Exercises the brain; Your curiosity about a particular clock might prompt you to research it’s history, or the era that the clock was made. Or, curiosity has led you to maintaining your own clocks. No one can argue that expanding your knowledge of mechanical things, learning new skill-sets, exploring new areas of interest, and learning something from the past is great for healthy brain development.

5) When it breaks it is something you can actually fix: When it breaks you fix it rather than throwing it out which you would likely do for most other items around your home. That means learning new skills when fixing it yourself or helping the local economy by buying repair tools/equipment or searching out a clock repair person (horologist) in your community.

6) An heirloom; pass it on to your children. Clocks are memories by association. Children love receiving clocks from their parents not only because of their collectible and intrinsic value but as a keepsake, a reminder of good times and happy memories. Yes, they are timeless gifts!

7) A soothing sound in a room. Intoxicating to some, annoying to others. Some clocks have beautiful tones and melodies. I always ask guests who stay over whether they mind a clock ticking in their bedroom. A striking or chiming clock might be considered an annoyance when one is not accustomed to the sound. If they suggest stopping the clock I always comply without question. The exception, of course, is the anniversary clock which emits no sound whatsoever. My sister has a number of vintage and antique clocks, she has very little idea how they work but loves the look and the sounds they make.

rs-kundo — You would have to have exceptional powers to hear this 400 day clock in any room

8) Gets you out of the house; My wife and I are into antiquing and that means getting in the car and driving around our beautiful province. We get some exercise, discover new places, meet new people, exchange stories and bring back memorable articles including our cherished clocks.

9) A conversation starter; It is a conversation starter; I have two clocks that are over 140 years old and many that are at least 100 years old. Can’t think of a thing to say when company is over? Well, I can tell you fascinating stories about many of my clocks. I often tell stories of our clock hunting adventures throughout Nova Scotia and other parts of Canada and some of the characters we meet along the way.

Go out and buy a mechanical clock! Clocks are not only good for the environment but they are good for the soul.

December 22, 2016

Why I love my Daniel Dakota wall clock

When I first started clock collecting and repair many people said to me, stay as far away as you can from those darned Chinese wall clocks. They are garbage! They have thin plates, are cheaply made with many stamped parts and they explode without warning. Not true! Oh, yes, they have thin plates and many stamped parts but they are actually quite reliable and don’t normally explode.

When I first heard the name Daniel Dakota many years ago I thought it must be some long established American company with a proud First Nations heritage. Whoa, was I wrong! It is a Chinese company and Daniel Dakota is a actually a registered trademark. This wonderful sounding American name no doubt eased this Chinese company’s penetration into the American market with tens of thousands of inexpensively made clocks that anyone could afford. Thousands of them are still working to this day despite the fact that many have never been serviced, a testament to just how tough they are.

The best thing about a Daniel Dakota clock is that you can pick one up for almost nothing. A barely running 1930s German box clock might set you back two or three hundred dollars but a perfectly preserved 1960s Chinese wall clock with “real wood” can be had for less than $50. I have two. I paid less than $40 for one and had the second one was given to me.

Of course, some folks think they are worth as much as a quality German antique clock. They often advertise them as antiques. Take these two ads on a online for-sale site?

“Original Daniel Dakota 1960-70 antique 31-day winding clock perfect condition. Elegant design with brass hands and pendulum. Comes with original key. Selling to people with taste $300”.

Well, people with taste and any knowledge of vintage/antique clocks would certainly pass on this one. This next ad is for a clock that is exactly like the one in the following photo.

“Beautifully Crafted Wood Pendulum Clock. Chimes on Hour & Once on the Half-Hour. Includes Winding Key.31 Day.Keeps perfect time, nice sounding chimes. Asking $250.00”

Converted from a mechanical clock — Daniel Dakota time and strike, sticker on bottom left says, “real wood”

I could go on and on. I see these ads almost every day. Yes, they are pretty and very plentiful but they are certainly not quality clocks. Do they last? If you take the time to service a 1960s or 1970s vintage mechanical one, thoroughly clean it and oil it, the clock will give you years of faithful service. It might not be the prettiest or the most accurate clock in your home but it is both reliable and dependable. The workmanship is, well, Chinese, which means that it is reasonably well put together (with real wood!) but there is zero evidence that a skilled craftsman spent hours toiling over your clock.

One feature I really like is winding the clock. Which way do I turn the key? Well, if you have a Daniel Dakota clock you can find little arrows which indicate the direction to turn the key above the winding arbours. What could go wrong!

Unless you know how to service your Daniel Dakota clock you might be deeply disappointed if you bring it in to a clock repair person (horologist). Many will refuse to touch it. I think it’s a snob thing. They will take one look at your prized clock, look at you sympathetically and say,

“it will cost far more than it’s worth to repair”

“I can’t get the parts”, or

“Would you like me to put a quartz movement in it?”

I have taken apart my two Daniel Dakota clocks many times. They have provided me with an excellent learning experience and they are a great entry point into the world of mechanical clocks because, well, if you make a mistake you can always salvage the parts for another or toss it out without feeling you’ve lost much on your investment. However, I doubt that I will acquire more Daniel Dakota clocks despite the fact that I like them. I will keep the two I have knowing that if I had to sell them I would get absolutely nothing for them and that’s perfectly fine with me.

I chuckle when I see those ads though.

December 17, 2016

Minimal Invasive intervention – repair, restore or conserve? The Ingraham Huron | A Case in Point

How Far Do You Go to Repair or Restore a Clock?

How far should one go to repair, restore, or conserve a clock without changing it in a significant way? Minimal invasive intervention is a term I “borrowed” from a clock forum I frequent. Some collectors argue that any work done on an antique clock detracts from its value—much like replacing the motor on an antique car. It may look nice, but it’s ultimately less desirable.

At the end of this article, I’ve included several questions that collectors might consider when faced with this dilemma.

When does performing too much work on a clock affect its collector value? If you go too far, does it lose its attraction as a collectible item? A true collector is often more interested in a movement that has never been touched than one that has been repaired or restored. But just how far should one go with a non-working vintage or antique clock? While it’s always desirable to have a running clock, most understand that getting a movement to actually function requires at least some invasive intervention—such as bushing or pivot reconstruction.

Repair implies correcting faults or poor servicing that may alter a clock from its original form.
Restoration involves rebuilding parts of the movement or case to return it to an “as-new” condition.
Conservation focuses on protecting and preserving a clock using effective methods to maintain its originality for as long as possible.

Some degree of intervention is not only necessary but, for some collectors, even desirable.

The Case of the Ingraham Huron Shelf Clock

To illustrate, let’s look at my 1878 Ingraham Huron time-and-strike shelf clock, an American-made piece with a uniquely designed rosewood case. For a 147-year-old clock, the case is in remarkable condition and always draws attention. The hands, pendulum, sash, and bezel hardware are all original. There are no cracks, breaks, or missing pieces. The case was cleaned with Murphy’s Oil Soap and water, followed by a light coat of shellac. The dial shows a natural buildup of grime that, while some may see it as unsightly, contributes to its authentic character—and that, I will not touch.

RS April 12th — _{Ingraham Huron shelf clock circa 1878}

The movement is original but bears evidence of poor past repairs. In small-town Nova Scotia, access to professional clockmakers was limited, so people often relied on local tinkerers to get their clocks running again. In those days, a clock was an appliance—something that needed to work, not a collector’s treasure. Quick and inexpensive fixes were the goal, and as a result, questionable methods were sometimes used. This movement shows plenty of solder, with misaligned gears and new pivot holes drilled into the plates. The soldering was likely done in the 1940s, when soldering guns became common.

RS Ingraham movement (2) — _{This lantern pinion has plenty of solder}

When I got it, the clock ran for two or three days on a full wind before stopping. A gentle nudge of the pendulum gets it going again, but it soon stops once more. From the front, little seems wrong, but once the movement is removed from the case, the problems become clear—particularly the invasive solder repairs.

Repair, Restore, or Conserve?

I brought the clock to a certified horologist, and we discussed which approach to take: repair, restore, or conserve? He shared a story about a customer who brought in a kitchen clock (also known as a “gingerbread” clock)—a family heirloom they wanted running again. These clocks are common today; thousands were made, and few have significant market value. Yet sentimental value often outweighs monetary worth. In such cases, he repairs the clock to the customer’s satisfaction but if the movement is beyond repair, he recommends replacing it with a period-correct one. Most customers accept this solution, but collectors recognize that a clock with a replacement movement holds little or no collector value.

RS Ingraham movement (4) — _{Piece added to the plate, second arrow shows new pivot hole}

In my case, the horologist advised that my Ingraham Huron’s movement should not be replaced. Instead, it should be carefully restored to its original condition.

Collectors are always on the hunt for untouched examples, but finding an antique clock that has never been altered is rare. Using this clock as an example, a repair might reduce its originality—and thus its value—while a proper restoration could increase both its appeal and desirability.

Questions for the Collector

When deciding how to approach an antique or vintage clock that needs work, I ask myself the following:

Is undoing the “damage” caused by an earlier poor repair considered an overly invasive procedure?
If the repair was done shortly after the clock was made and clearly documented, should it be left untouched?
Is a poor repair part of the clock’s historical provenance, and should it remain as-is?
Would bringing the movement back to its original state be considered a restoration or a repair?
In the case of the Ingraham Huron, does removing all the solder qualify as minimal invasive intervention?
Will the repair enhance or diminish the clock’s value?
Would choosing not to repair or restore it be considered conservation?

In my view, conservation represents the least invasive form of intervention, while repair and restoration involve progressively greater degrees of change.

So, how far would you go?

In the end, the question of how far to go in repairing or restoring a clock echoes the ancient Ship of Theseus paradox. When every part of a clock has been repaired, replaced, or renewed, does it remain the same clock? Perhaps the answer lies not in its parts but in its essence—the story it tells, the hands that have wound it, and the generations who have listened to it mark the passing of time. Whether we choose to repair, restore, or conserve, each decision reflects our own philosophy of preservation: what we value more—the clock’s originality, or its ability to keep time once again.

December 12, 2016

Is my clock worth fixing?

It is a question many clock owners face when confronted with a nonfunctional antique or vintage clock. Whether it’s a handed-down family heirloom, a vintage find from a flea market, or a sentimental gift, deciding whether to invest in repairs can feel daunting. Beyond its monetary value, a clock’s worth often lies in its history, craftsmanship, or the memories it holds. In this article, we’ll explore key factors to consider—such as the clock’s condition, sentimental significance, and potential repair costs—to help you determine whether restoring your clock is the right choice for you.

1) Sentimental value:

An antique clock passed down through generations often carries more than just the weight of its years; it holds the stories, traditions, and memories of a family or a special person. Such a clock may be destined to continue its legacy with future generations.

Similarly, a clock might hold personal significance as a cherished anniversary present, a thoughtful retirement gift, or a token of friendship. In these cases, the emotional value far outweighs its replacement value, making the clock truly “one of a kind” and irreplaceable. Repairing a clock with this kind of sentimental importance is unquestionably worthwhile. When entrusted to a trusted, professionally certified repair person (horologist), the restoration ensures its continued presence in your life, regardless of its resale value.

For instance, my 114-year-old Gustav Becker two-weight Vienna Regulator, a retirement gift from my wife, holds immense sentimental value. Initially purchased as a project clock on eBay, it required substantial investment to function correctly. Today, it looks stunning and runs beautifully, but repairing it wasn’t about the cost; it was about preserving something irreplaceable. In such cases, the expense of repair becomes less of an investment and more of a necessary operating cost to keep a beloved treasure alive.

I own a Ridgeway grandfather clock that I plan to pass down to my children. It holds deep sentimental value, reminding me of a clock my wife and I nearly purchased over 30 years ago. At the time, we decided not to proceed with the deal but made a promise that we would one day own a grandfather clock like it. That promise was fulfilled in 2012 when we found a Ridgeway Hamilton Country grandfather clock, made in 1996 and in pristine condition. If and when it eventually requires repair, the cost may equal its market value, but to me, the repair would be well worth it. Its sentimental significance far outweighs any monetary considerations.

RS Ridgeway clock_2 — Ridgeway Hamilton Country Westminster chime tall clock

2) A decorative item: The second type of clock is one with no emotional value—purely a decorative piece that no longer works. Perhaps it was a flea market find you got running for a time, but now it has stopped. In this case, you have two options: let it sit as a decorative item or repair it. When considering repairs, the replacement value of the clock should play a key role in your decision. If the repair costs exceed the cost of replacing the clock, it may make more sense to simply replace it.

However, if you have the tools and skills to repair it yourself, weigh the cost of new parts against your time and effort. For quality clocks, even a full overhaul of the movement may cost less than the clock’s actual value. With common antique clocks, such as American mantel or wall clocks, repair costs often approach or even exceed their market value. For rare or unusual clocks, however, repairs are typically more economical relative to their value, making the investment worthwhile.

3) Collector value: The third category includes clocks with collector value.

If a clock has been purchased as an “investment,” for resale, or simply as part of a collection, the repair costs should not exceed its overall value. For high-grade clocks requiring repair, especially if parts are unavailable, it’s important to carefully consider whether repairing it is worthwhile. When selling a clock, remember that buyers almost always prefer one in working condition, and as original as possible, so minimal repairs may enhance its appeal and value.

For example, I recently acquired a miniature Vienna Regulator. Not only is it in good working order, but it is also in exceptional condition—an impressive feat for a clock that is 145 years old.

For collectors, determining a clock’s value can be challenging, especially with the significant fluctuations in clock prices in recent years. However, certain types of clocks, such as high-quality French bracket clocks, English lantern clocks, carriage clocks, and jeweler’s regulators, have managed to retain their value. Clocks that are unique, exquisitely crafted, low-production, or one-of-a-kind are typically far more valuable than common, mass-produced examples.

4) Quick re-sale: The final category includes clocks purchased for quick resale.

Many individuals buy and sell antique and vintage clocks purely for profit, often through online marketplaces or specialized sales. When acquiring a clock with the intent to resell, it’s important to factor in both the time and cost of repairs or parts needed to make it marketable. Since buyers almost always prefer a functioning clock, a fully serviced clock is not only more desirable but can also command a higher price than one left unserviced.

This Ingersoll-Waterbury mantel clock (photo above) was purchased at a flea market for a very reasonable price and has since been fully serviced. If I were to sell it, I would need to recover the initial purchase price along with the cost of my time and supplies.

It’s worth noting that many clocks sold on online marketplaces are marketed to unsuspecting buyers. Sellers often claim the clock is in “excellent running condition” while adding a caveat that it “may require adjustment after shipping.” If you’re involved in buying and selling, keep in mind that buyers are often looking for a bargain. Additionally, you may not always achieve the price you believe your clock is worth, so pricing realistically is essential.

Final thoughts

There are many reasons why people acquire antique and vintage clocks. Deciding whether they are worth keeping or repairing ultimately depends on your purpose—whether it’s for profit, sentimental value, or a passion for collecting, as it is for me. Each clock has its own story and value, and understanding your connection to it will guide your decision.

December 8, 2016

Antiquing on a Sunday afternoon

Carriage clock with Jeweler's inscription — Carriage clock with Jeweler’s inscription

Sadly the number of antique shops in Nova Scotia is dwindling. We were antiquing in the city of Halifax (Nova Scotia, Canada) this past spring and one of the store owners remarked that there used to be dozens of antique shops in the city, now only a few remain. There are still a few antique shops left in the rural areas and one of our favorites is located in Great Village, Nova Scotia. We decided on a little drive to Great village on a sunny fall Sunday. We were not disappointed in the variety of clocks we discovered. Although I saw all the following clocks during our day of antiquing I bought only one, the Kern “diamond face” 400 day clock (see photo below).

rs-great-village-antiques_3 — Window display

I want to give readers a sense of what is out there if you are collector like myself or you are new to collecting. Now is an excellent time to buy. There are certainly deals to be found and plenty of clocks in the shops. My personal experience is that the antique stores are great places to buy clocks but it can be bit of a gamble. For example, the Kern 400 day clock was advertised for a very fair price complete with glass dome. I asked the store owner if they knew anything about clocks and they said “no, nothing at all”. Sometimes that is a very good answer! The tag on the clock said “as is”. The owner evidently thought the pendulum balls were seized. Prior to the purchase I discovered, that they were, in fact, in their locked position. I got the clock home, unlocked it, gave a little push and it has been running for the past week.

You can get a “steal” of a deal, a clunker or something in between in an antique shop. In this same shop two years ago I bought an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon wall clock for under $200. The case is in excellent shape as is the dial but the movement, though barely running, required servicing. Even though I had to put a little more money into the clock I still consider it a great deal!

Having some knowledge of clock models, styles and types in particular is an advantage. Or, perhaps you might have a good sense that what you are looking at is a good deal. In the case of the Kern 400 day clock I inspected it beforehand and found that it was not only complete but in excellent condition. The $58 Garrard time and strike (photo below) might be a good deal but if it is missing the pendulum you are going to have to search long and hard for a replacement or buy one which adds to the cost. You might ask yourself, what else is missing and how much more money would I have to put into it? The Garrard was missing the front glass and I could not figure out how it was attached so I passed on it. Those are some of the factors to consider when you see something at an attractive price.

In the case of the carriage clock (first photo) the seller wants $120 but the day I was there they were offering a 20% discount which works out to $96. There is a jewelers inscription on the front which says Ryrie Bros. Toronto. Ryrie Bros was a jeweler in Toronto and was incorporated in 1905 with James Ryrie as president and W.M. Birks as vice president. In 1924 the firm changed it’s name to Ryrie Birks and finally in 1933 became Birks. As any Canadian knows Birks (Maison Birk) is one of the premier jewelers in this country. One could comfortably date this clock at between 1905 and 1924. Although the tag says that it is French it is likely American. It might be desirable however there are two bothersome issues that I could see right away with this carriage clock. One, the left side beveled glass panel has a chip in the lower back corner and two, there are noticeable hairline cracks in the upper two corners of the face. The tag said it was in working order. $96 may not be a bad price when you consider that comparable clocks fetch upwards of $130 or more + shipping on Ebay. If it is still there before Christmas I might take a second look.

This unknown “marble” desk clock was very interesting and quite heavy. It had an alarm clock style movement with a key wind and an adjustment for the time, and what appears to be brass bird (duck?) on it’s right side.

As I mentioned I bought this Kern 400 day “diamond face” clock. It is in excellent condition; unlocked the pendulum, oiled the movement, gave it a gentle push of the pendulum and now running very well.

Could be Session, Ingraham, Ansonia — Could be Sessions, Ingraham, Ansonia

In decent shape, 1873 it said on the label, but the seller wanted too much, $450 if I recall. The seller claims it is running, according the tag. Is it a Sessions, Ingraham, Ansonia or …..?

This clock looked to be in decent shape, the strike side appeared to be working properly. The case is oak but when I picked it up to examine it more closely, the construction, fit and finish had a cheap feel. There was a card inside describing a servicing performed in 1994. $68 – a little high, I thought but there may not be a lot wrong with it.

I like this clock but know very little about crystal regulators. What I do know is that most American companies made them, from simple brass and glass cases to elaborate cases with cast and gilt ornaments. Equivalent French examples seem to be more valuable than American ones. They can be highly expensive. Generally, the more elaborate the case, the more expensive the clock, even though the simple cases could easily be considered more tasteful. I remember seeing a very ornate one on Antique Roadshow which was valued at $8000. Condition is very important with these clocks, including the condition of the beveled glass, dials, and original finish (generally gilt) on the case ornaments. Is the pendulum supposed to be filled with anything? Mercury? These cylinders looked empty. The seller claims the clock is running and wants $365. A fair price? I don’t know. It needs a thorough cleaning though.

This English Garrard clock had a well constructed case and appeared to have a well-made, robust movement but was missing its front glass. I have been to this particular shop several times and nobody seems to be interested in the clock though the price has not changed.

rs-great-village-antiques_6 — Seth Thomas made by Talley Industries

I noticed a Seth Thomas mantel clock in a dark corner. This particular example is one that I would not recommend to anyone unless you are a fan of Talley Industries. It is a Seth Thomas Westminster chime mantel clock made by Talley Industries, Peterborough, Ontario in the early seventies with what appears to be an imported West German Hermle movement. This clock was cheaply constructed (corners were chipped), likely has the dreaded plated pivot problem and has absolutely no collector value. Those in the clock collecting world familiar with Seth Thomas know that it was a reputable clock maker for many years and produced many fine clocks but the Talley Industries era must have been a very dark period for the company!

rs-great-village-antiques_8 — A unique clock design

I hope this blog article gives the reader some ideas when it comes to antique shop clock shopping. It certainly pays to do your research. Although I love browsing the shops I do not limit my shopping to them. I acquire many of my clocks from a variety of sources including Ebay, Kijiji, and word of mouth but I like browsing through antique shops because there are always other interesting items that catch the eye.

December 4, 2016

Ingersoll Waterbury mantel clock servicing and a little mystery thrown in for good measure

When I bought my Ingersoll-Waterbury clock a year ago I knew that it had not been serviced but the price was reasonable and it was running. I got a lot of other projects out of the way and have finally gotten around to giving this clock a little care and attention.

Ingersoll-Waterbury clocks were sold in Canada; had Canadian made cases using American made Waterbury movements and were sold in department stores across Canada. This clock was distributed by the G. R. L’Esperance Co. from Montreal, Quebec. The label on the inside of the back access door says “Ingersoll-Waterbury Co. a division of Waterbury Clock Co.”. Ingersoll-Waterbury was the Canadian arm of the Waterbury Clock Co. Year of manufacture, I am estimating was somewhere between 1940-1944 when brass was in short supply.

The case is in very good shape though it was likely inexpensive to make. Some cost savings are evident in the use of a paper dial, flimsy clock hands and a plastic bezel with flat glass. However, I was impressed with the well designed and sturdily built movement and surprised that it did not take much to service this clock.

One unique feature is a swinging door with plastic bezel and flat glazing attached to the case by two hinges that open up to reveal the clock face and hands.

The clock has a steel frame with a brass electro-plating as a rust inhibitor and brass bushings punched into drilled holes in the steel. Steel plates are not unusual as there were a number of manufacturers which used steel as a cost savings measure, for additional strength or because brass was in short supply. The plates were often plated with nickle as in the case of Arthur Pequegnat clocks or brass as in the case of this clock. One of the first things I noticed when I dis-assembled the clock were the number of punch marks adjacent to the bushings an example of which can be seen in the next photo. It must have been difficult to achieve a tight fit for the brass bushings; factory punching ensured that the bushings remained in place.

I have just completed the servicing. The clock required three new bushings. Punching new brass bushings into the factory bushings took a little more care and attention than usual as I did not want to loosen the existing bushings.

Dis-assembly, cleaning, servicing the mainsprings, installing new bushings are no different than any other American movement. Re-assembly of the strike side requires the synchronizing of the strike side by aligning the levers and wheels correctly which usually takes several attempts for me.

The one real challenge I had was aligning the strike hammer so that it would actually strike the gong. I must have bent it when I took the clock apart. What was I thinking? I could not see the solution so I put it aside until I came up with the fix. I ended up bending it back to its correct position.

While re-installing the movement into it’s case I noticed something strange on the bottom of the clock, a mysterious hatch. On the bottom right hand side of the clock (indicated by the arrow) there is a hatch that measures 2 3/8 inches by 2 3/8 inches. On it there is an inscription which reads

“FRONT, if you know what this hatch is for, you know more than I do” signed J.H.Ross May 24, 1967.

“Front” refers to the orientation of the hatch. What is it for? I posted this on the NAWCC discussion board site and so far no-one has come up with the answer.

Why would anyone put a hatch on the bottom of this mantel clock?

Was the hatch added later on? There is a lighter colouring of the wood to the left of the green felt which seems to indicate that a hole was cut out later to accommodate the hatch.

A clasp on the other side of the hatch secures it in place and allows it to be removed.

Was the trap door a chamber to hide items? Why, when it simply opens up into the case interior.

And there’s more! Here is a view of the entire bottom showing a second cutout (see arrow) on the left side. Why go through all this trouble?

The clock is all back together and in the process of being regulated but I sure would like to solve this mystery. It has taught me one thing, always look at the bottom of a case.

November 30, 2016

One weight Vienna Regulator miniature

My quest for a one-weight Vienna Regulator ended this past week and I am now in possession of a miniature rather than a traditional antique Vienna wall clock. Here are first impressions back in 2016.

Top showing face and crown detail — Top showing face, hands and crown detail

This attractive unmarked Vienna Regulator one-weight (time-only) clock is 34 inches long 4.75 inches deep and 11 inches at it’s widest point and 8.5 inches at the waist. There are no markings on the movement. My research tells me that very few Austrian clocks have markings on the back plates. There are indications that the lines and style suggest Austro-Hungary, about 1870. The maker, however is unknown.

I believe that this clock is a transitional clock that forms the link between the simplicity of the earlier styles and the extravagance of the latter. Where the earlier pieces rarely have columns on the side of the door, the transitional clocks have either broken columns (tops and bottoms of columns with hanging finials) or slender, elegant columns. In comparison, the hallmarks of the Alt Deutsch clocks were full, and typically fluted columns with Corinthian pediments and rectangular panels at the base. The four-posted keyhole mounts were common throughout the transitional period. Most dials are two-piece porcelain with spun-brass bezels.

Transitional Vienna Regulators typically have wooden pendulum rods and brass bobs with zinc backs. The cases were typically made with walnut, cherry and other fruit wood veneers. There are not as many ebonized or faux (false-grained) finishes in the transitional style cases.

This is a high quality clock housed in a beautiful walnut wood veneered case. The case is in excellent condition save for a few scratches near the door catch from the small brass hook moving back and forth and two small pieces of veneer missing on the uppermost right side that are not visible when looking at the clock head on.

The case is adorned with an attractive crown that is part of the clock unlike similar clocks that have removable toppers. Two finials finish the top. The finals do not appear to be original but are consistent with the style and age of the clock. The twin pillared tapered columns on either side start at the top and narrow towards the bottom of the case, an unusual feature and evidence of skilled craftsmanship. Curiously the left corner rectangular column piece is slightly longer than the right piece. The case is correctly finished on the bottom with a middle and corner finials. On the sides are two brass screws (or standoffs) for leveling adjustment.

rs-miniature-vr_24 — One of two standoffs

Top finial might have been larger originally — Top finials originally might have been larger

Inside the case is a porcelain beat scale and large pendulum. All of the glass is original and in good shape. The interior glass clips used to secure the glass to the inside of the frame appear to be a later addition. The front glass which shows characteristic waviness and small imperfections are consistent with the age of the clock.

Bottom showing beat plate and finial detail, notice waviness of glass

The simplicity of the time-only movement is what makes them last so long and remain easy to maintain. The four-posted key-hole mount is typical of a Germanic or Austrian clock. The Graham deadbeat escapement assures accurate timekeeping.

rs-miniature-vr_39 — Four-posted key-hole mount

rs-miniature-vr_43 — Side view of movement showing deadbeat escapement and gear train

Case showing mounting bracket and suspension spring slot

The brass weight is hung from a brass pulley by mean of catgut cable. The dial is a two piece porcelain with inner and outer brass bezels surrounded by roman numerals with bold but delicately styled hands. The winding arbour is framed in brass. There is some crazing on the dial consistent with aging.

rs-miniature-vr_45 — Slight crazing on the porcelain dial

The original clock key is a winding type with wooden handle.

There are stylistic elements that suggest that the clock is Germanic or Austrian such as the elaborate clock hands, the tapered pillars, and integrated crown. So, is this clock a Germanic, Austrian or Austro-Hungarian regulator? I am very pleased with my purchase and I believe that I bought a quality clock that, according to my research, was made in or about 1870. If you know the answer or can point me in the right direction I can be one step closer to solving this mystery.

November 27, 2016

Kern 400 day clock, first attempt at torsion clock servicing

My Kern anniversary clock was a real deal at $7.23 though it came without its glass dome and it was missing one movement support thumb screw (there should be two). The intent was to learn all about…

Source: Kern 400 day clock, first attempt at torsion clock servicing

November 23, 2016

Clock repair in days gone by

Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site

rs-annapolis-royal-oct-16_21-42 — Clock shop in rural Nova Scotia

I had a discussion with David, a horologist acquaintance who is currently working on my 138 year old Ingraham Huron mantel clock (pictured above) about clock repairs in days gone by. He said he had happened to have a conversation a few days ago with an 82 year friend who had been in the clock repair business most of his life who said that times were very different in the “olden days”.

Imagine a Canadian home in the 1920s or the 1930s. In those days a clock was like a refrigerator or a washing machine; it was an appliance. The clock was generally inexpensive and purchased for one reason, to tell the time. Quite often it was the only timekeeping device in the home for common folk. Despite the fact that they were relatively poor timekeepers, people in those days did not demand accuracy in a clock, not like today. If it was correct within a minute or two a week that was just fine. Not only was the clock cheap, it was sturdy, functional and withstood a certain amount of abuse. My Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock, for instance, sold for $5 when it was new in 1912. Five dollars was a lot of money when the average person such as a a railway employee might have made $662 a year or about $12.75 per week, but the home had to have a clock.

Arthur Pequegnat kichen clock — This Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock sold for $5 in 1912

There was always someone in the community that tinkered with clocks and for very little money, or a trade for services, the “appliance” was repaired and promptly returned to it’s owner. The tinkerer was usually someone who fixed things in their spare time rather than fix clocks as a profession. In larger urban centres clock repair persons (trained horologists) set up professional shops but in rural Nova Scotia those services were expensive and few and far between.

When the day came and the clock stopped running, it had to be fixed, and quickly. Often the request was, “just make it work”. The repair did not have to be pretty so long as the clock functioned and the cost of the repair was reasonable. Specialized clock tools were expensive and difficult to acquire so the tinkerer relied on tools they had lying around in the garage or the basement; a hammer, a pair of pliers, a punch, a file, a screwdriver and so on. The self-trained tinkerer did the best he could to make his neighbours’ clocks run often using questionable methods. Since brass bushings were not available the tinkerer would use a punch to close a pivot hole. In the 1940s when the soldering gun was commercially available and inexpensive, it too was added to the toolkit and often a piece of brass was soldered (or riveted) to the plate to accommodate a new pivot hole. They might also soak the movement in a bucket of gasoline overnight and then oil it with something like 3-in-1 oil. Sometimes this would be enough to clean out the gunk and allow the clock to run again, the costumer would be happy because their clock came back working and the tinkerer would charge very little for their “services”. The clock was not worth a great deal and the customer would not have had the money to pay a professional anyway. Common short-term solutions such as these often led to more frequent repairs and eventually replacement of the clock.

In the 1930s the synchronous electric clock began to replace the mechanical clock. Yet, homeowners in the rural areas who had no electricity hung on to them and kept them running, but eventually the electric clock gradually replaced the mechanical clock. Although, many of those old clocks were trashed, sent to the garage, the basement, or the attic, some were passed down to family members and are cherished keepsakes to this day. Not long after, the tinkerers in many communities began to disappear.

Today we covet our prized antique and vintage clocks that adorn our homes. When they are ticking away we marvel at the inventors and innovators of the past and when we want that certain clock, cost is no object. To repair them we employ all manner of modern technology; bushing machines, broaches, special files, clamps, spring winders and lathes to ensure that the “job is done right”, the clocks end up lasting years and are “better than ever”. But it was not always like that.

We look down upon those tinkerers of the past and the repairs they made without really understanding what it was like during those times. “What butcher worked on this?” I hear some people saying. Well, I have said it myself, but after talking to David I now have a better understanding of the clock tinkerers of past and the important work they did for their communities.

November 20, 2016

New glass and bezel for Waterbury Arion

I am not sure where you would have found a Waterbury Arion. It is really too small for a schoolhouse clock or an office clock unless it was a tiny office. Nevertheless, enough of them were made since they are fairly common.

rs_1080437 — Waterbury Arion octagon short drop without glass and bezel surround

I bought this time-only clock from an older gentleman in Halifax, Nova Scotia.. When he advertised it on a local online for-sale site the photo was so poor that I did not notice that it was missing a bezel and glass so when I arrived at his home we negotiated a slightly lower price.

The oak cabinet is in very good condition as is the reverse painted glass sash. On the other hand, the paper dial is not in great shape but I have decided to leave well enough alone. I think it adds character to the clock. It is a strong runner and keeps very good time. Since it is only 19 inches tall it will fit just about anywhere in a home. A year has gone by and I like the clock so much that I felt it was worth putting on a glass dial and brass bezel.

I measured the clock face and ordered a new bezel and glass. Not having done this before, I thought the glass and bezel would come as one complete assembly or if not complete, a simple way of attaching the glass. What came were 4 brass clips, a hinge without screw holes, the brass bezel, convex glass sized to fit and a 1 1/2 inch long brass tab. Not what I expected!

rs-waterbury-octogon-short-drop-9 — Original hinge prior to sanding and cleaning

I did not see the need to replace the original hinge as it is in very good condition. I learned that soldering will only hold if the parts to be soldered are cleaned/sanded beforehand and petroleum-based plumber’s flux paste is used, plus I chose to use a propane torch rather than a soldering iron to get as much heat to the parts as I could. Capillary action is required to make the solder flow so there must be sufficient heat.

Although I need more practice soldering I achieved a strong bond. At hand were Robertson screws to secure the hinge to the case which will be replaced with slotted screws at a later date.

rs-bezel-and-glass-on-a-waterbury-_4 — New bezel installed with old hinge

Next was getting the glass into the bezel. Here is one of the clips that I soldered into place. There are 4 of them and each one was a minor frustration. If the solder bond is strong enough the clips can be safely bent and I was able to bend these with ease.

rs-bezel-and-glass-on-a-waterbury-_3 — Bezel showing a clip soldered into place

The high heat of a torch will discolour the brass. Too much heat and the outside of the brass will also be discoloured. Must be beginners luck, the outside of the bezel is fine.

When pushing the tabs down to anchor the glass I put a small chip in the glass which is not otherwsie noticeable. I did not want to put an anchor slot in the left side of the bezel which is what the 1 1/2 inch tab is for so I decided to trim it and use it as a bottom support for the bezel assembly, just under the number “6”. Not ideal but very functional.

rs-2bezel-and-glass-on-a-waterbury-_1 — You can just see the support tab under the 6

In the process I also cleaned up the brass around the dial pan to match the new bezel/glass surround. Despite minor frustrations and the need to stop and think as I went along the project is now complete and the clock looks much more better.

A great little project and I learned more about soldering along the way.

Now to repaint the numerals.

November 17, 2016

The French Carriage clock

I have in my collection an unsigned 8-day carriage clock in a moulded rectangular brass case. This attractive little clock has a white enamel dial with Roman numerals, blued steel hands and a spring driven movement with platform lever escapement visible through the top beveled glass. The moulded brass case has beveled glass panels on all sides complete with a fold-down travel handle and two sided key.

Although my knowledge of carriage clocks is somewhat limited, searching the origin of the carriage clock on the net reveals that this type of clock was a very popular item for well-to-do travelers in days gone by. Carriage clocks were spring driven clocks popular in the late 19th and early 20th century designed for travel. It’s golden age was somewhere between 1860 and 1900. The first carriage clock made by Abraham Louis Breguet was designed exclusively for Emperor Napoleon of France in 1812. More information about this fine inventor and horologist can be found here. Many came with a sturdy leather carrying case with one hinged panel that opened to check the time. Mine came without one.

The movement plates in my clock are secured by screws rather than pins suggesting that it was made at a later period. This clock would have been produced for the English market since it has “S”and “F” stamped on the escapement. If one assumes that the key which has “France” inscribed on it is original, then the clock is French. There are no markings on the outside of the clock save for the number “73” stamped twice on the inside access door and once on the bottom of the carrying handle. There are numbers visible on the inside of the plates that I can barely see but once I get the clock apart I can determine if they mean anything and report in a subsequent blog entry if I find anything of significance.

It’s diminutive size, 3 inches wide by 4 1/2 inches tall (without the handle) and 2 1/2 inches deep makes it exceptionally portable. If it is to be displayed on a mantel, a shelf or a desk, it is small enough to be placed anywhere in the home without dominating a room.

The balance and spring-driven platform jeweled escapement that comprised the working mechanism of the carriage clock made it ideal for transportation. The fact that it needed to be transported means it was more robust in dealing with jostling and movement than any other type of clock in it’s day. They were built to last which is why so many of them survive in very good condition to this day. Many had time and strike mechanisms, some with a repeater function, but this is a simpler time-only version.

I managed to revitalize the case as you can see in the first two photos. However, the back plate shows a significant amount of oxidization though one hopes that the movement itself is in good condition. This oxidation is called Verdigris. Verdigris is a bright bluish-green encrustation or patina formed on copper or brass by atmospheric oxidation, consisting of basic copper carbonate.

Although the clock came to me in running condition the movement is very dirty and requires disassembly and a thorough cleaning. I am encouraged by the fact that the clock ran through an eight day cycle so I must assume that the jewels in the escapement are in good condition. Repairing jeweled escapements is not something I can do at this stage.

At the moment I see two issues with my clock. One, there is a small break in the lower corner of the beveled glass on the left side which is barely visible and two, the pull handle on the access door is slightly bent. There may be other issues once I get it apart but we’ll cross that bridge when it comes. I might even find that missing piece of beveled glass trapped somewhere in the movement.

During my research concerning the repair and servicing of carriage clocks I have discovered that letting down the mainspring is critical prior to disassembling. I read about a case where the platform escapement was taken off without letting down the mainspring and the result was the contrate wheel (having teeth that are at right angles to the plane of rotation) below the escapement was seriously damaged. I want to avoid that.

At the moment I have too many other clock projects on the go. However, in the meantime, that won’t keep me from displaying this beautifully crafted timepiece in a prominent location.

In a future blog I will report on the steps I will take to bring this clock to a healthy running condition.

November 11, 2016

Clocks I discovered on my summer travels (2016)

Once a year we travel to central Canada and since I am always on the lookout for clocks when I am on the road, they can show up in the strangest of places.

We stopped a a boutique hotel in downtown Quebec City and came across this Snider Starburst clock in the dining area. Many folks do not realize that Snider clocks are distinctively Canadian. According to the Canadian Clock Museum, “the Snider Clock Corporation, was set up in 1950 by Harry Snider, who operated a wholesale jeweler business on Yonge Street at the time. The company name was changed in 1957 to the Snider Clock Mfg Co. Limited. Over a period of more than twenty-five years until 1976 there were hundreds of models of Snider mantel, TV lamp, and wall clocks designed and manufactured in Toronto”.

In the same boutique hotel beside the Snider clock was a wine vending machine. How cool is that!

This fine looking Scottish Hugh Gordon tall-case clock located in a home near Montreal, was made somewhere between 1760 and 1770. The clock is majestic and certainly defines the room though I wish it were in my room! The cabinet is in excellent condition but the movement requires attention that can only be provided by professional horologist.

Smiths Enfield Art Deco style mantel clock circa 1949

I like the lines of this clock. In fact, I liked it so much that I bought it. This Smiths Enfield Art Deco clock was discovered at this antique shop in Haliburton, Ontario and it has become our newest cottage clock.

I am not a fan of pillar clocks although I do have a couple. This six pillar Sessions time and strike seems to be in good shape though the dial may need replacing or restoration. Some would leave it as-is. I am personally not a fan of replacing a dial but if the numbers are unreadable it can be an option.

What is it? Is it French, is it British? Could even be American. There are no markings on the dial face. I am leaning towards French.

I saw this in an antique store and hummed and hawed over whether I should buy it or not. We were with friends and they loved it. I thought about it, went back a week later, made an offer and now it is sitting on a buffet at home. It works well, runs a full eight days but has a jeweled movement which concerns me. I am not comfortable having this clock run continuously until I know how to service it. Heck I can’t even find a way to open it up to inspect it. For the moment I will run it only on special occasions until my skill level improves enough to allow me to investigate further.

Possible Ansonia or French mantel clock — Possibly Ansonia or another French mantel clock

The above clock, another find in an antique store is possibly French or American. I believe Ansonia made clocks very similar to this. I am going to call it an Ansonia.

Collection of beehive, six pillar Seth Thomas and Waterbury wall clock

A Seth Thomas Beehive and a Waterbury time and strike wall clock. Both are in very good condition but a tad on the pricey side.

My wife took a quick cell phone shot of this clock in another antique shop. Not the best image.

Kienzle Weschester Chime — Kienzle Winchester Chime

It is a Kienzle 3-train German clock and no matter how hard I look I cannot find another like it. Could be a one-of. If you know anything about it please drop me a line.

That’s about it. I found another tall-case clock in a restaurant in Quebec City. It looked like a combination of several clocks although the cabinet was nice. So, somebody messed with it. Should have taken a photo!

November 9, 2016

Ingraham Huron – off to the shop for restoration!

I have related the story of this most interesting Ingraham Huron mantel clock in an earlier blog which you can read about here. I purchased it at what I believe was a reasonable price from an older couple near Bridgewater, Nova Scotia who were in the midst of downsizing. It had been in their family for a very long time and although it was cherished for many years it was time to let it go.

Because it is such a unique design you don’t often see this style of clock in any of the antique stores and they rarely come up at the finer online auction houses. The last one I saw on EBay sold for US895.00 a year and a half ago.

The case is actually in very good condition for a 138 year old clock but the movement suffered at the hands of a butcher. The clock will run for about 2-3 days on a full wind and then stop. Nudging the pendulum will get it going again but only for about a couple of hours. To anyone who knows anything about clocks there is an serious power loss in the movement and it is not difficult to determine why once you see the photos. After taking the face off there is little to indicate that there are any issues with this clock.

Back of the movement — Front of the movement

However, as you can see in the next four photos there are some interesting issues with the movement which undoubtedly contribute to it’s poor running. In the first photo you can see that the escape wheel arbour is at an extreme angle relative to the other arbours. In the next three photos arrows are pointing to solder that was used to “correct” various problems with the movement. The result is that although the clock will operate for a period of time on a full wind, it cannot and will not run the full 8-day cycle.

rs-ingraham-movement-9 — The escape wheel is at a precarious angle

rs-ingraham-movement-3 — A new pivot hole has been made and a lantern gear “repaired”

rs-ingraham-movement-1 — A solder “fix” for the fan

Is this a repair job or a restoration? I brought it in to a certified horologist nearby who said that in situations such as this if the movement is likely beyond repair he recommends to the customer that the movement be replaced with a period movement correct for the clock. He agrees with me that this movement must stay with the clock to preserve it’s provenance and it’s authenticity, therefore restoration for this antique clock is required.

Why am I not doing this myself? Many of the clocks I have worked on require minimal adjustment/repair to get them to run reliably again and I am still in a learning phase. I have disassembled many clocks, cleaned them and even installed/replaced bushings but this is a job that must be left to someone who is familiar with clocks that have had very poor repairs such as this one.

It will take two or three months but at the end of the day this will be a properly restored timepiece. Once I get it back I will report on the steps it took to restore this clock.

November 7, 2016

Idioms and expressions with the word “clock” in them

In Maritime Canada, this weekend marks the time to turn the clocks back. We have a saying, “Spring forward, fall behind,” which refers to the switch from Atlantic Daylight Savings Time (DST) to Standard Time on November 6th, moving the clocks back by one hour. As a result, we gain “an extra hour of daylight” in the morning, which is beneficial for farmers, I suppose. In the spring, the clocks are moved ahead again. However, not all regions in Canada observe DST.

Not many people realize that Sir Sandford Fleming, a Canadian engineer and inventor, proposed Standard time and world wide time zones. Although he was born in Scotland he immigrated to Canada at the age of 14. In his later years he was employed by the Grand Trunk Railway which led him on the path to standardized time zones for the railway.

I decided to dedicate this blog to Standard Time and the many idioms and expressions with the word “clock” in them.

The clock is ticking
Beat the clock
Turn the clock back
Wind back the clock
Run out (or down) the clock
A stopped clock is correct twice a day
Clean (someone’s) clock
On the clock
Biological clock is ticking
Watch the clock
He’s (she’s) a clock watcher
Punch the clock
Around the clock
Stop the clock!
Race against the clock
As regular as clockwork (or, running like clockwork)
Face that could stop a clock
Five o’clock shadow
Hickory dickory dock the mouse went up the clock
One, two, three o’clock four o’clock rock
Rock around the clock

Let me know if I missed anything, and I’ll be happy to make adjustments.

For an updated list, please visit here.

November 4, 2016

Juba Schatz bim-bam mantel clock

In the clock world Germany is well known for well engineered, precision clocks. Juba Schatz is not a name one comes across often but it has solid roots in the German clock making industry.

This a an antique shop find of a clock that dates from the mid to late 1940s. Its design is understated, and reflects the minimalist lines of style common during the post war period.

This clock is in excellent condition and has some intriguing features; first, a circular disk that one rotates on the crutch to put the clock in beat to compensate for a surface that is not level; second, 4 strike rods, 1 for the first strike of the bim-bam and 3 for the second; third, a storage cradle on the back door for the pendulum bob just below the key holder and fourth, a very effective and robust two-piece steel strike lock, a aid in transporting the clock. The original operating instructions in English and German were included.

Juba instructions — Juba clock instructions

Bim-bam clocks are not unique. Many companies made bim-bam clocks. They appealed to the masses due to the distinctive strike. The mechanical strike mechanism is made up of two and sometimes up to four finely tuned copper rods (as in this clock) mounted to a cast iron block.

At one time clocks with unique tonal sounds were called Normandy chimes. Instead of one strike on the hour and half hour, there were two. It was a musical dual tone, instead of a single, (often harsh sounding) single hourly or half hour strike. The American Gilbert Clock Company made several mantel clocks in the 1920s that had what Gilbert termed a “Normandy Chime”. Gilbert explicitly called this the “Normandy Chime”, which was supposed to have been patterned off the old bells of Normandy, The Normandy chime is the precursor to the bim-bam.

Information on this clock company is scarce. Several YouTube videos demonstrate a chiming or a striking Juba clock but contain no description or history of the company.

Juba movement showing pendulum and strike hammers — Juba movement showing pendulum, strike hammers and circular level compensation disk

The formal company name is Jahresuhren-Fabrik August Schatz und Söhne gmbh. I discovered that the company was formed in 1881 and ceased production in 1981. It was started by August Schatz who was born in 1854 and died in 1927. Family members took over the company after his death.

Schatz are best known for anniversary and mariner clocks but made cottage clocks, bracket clocks, mantel clocks, kitchen clocks and watches as well.

I will continue my search for more information about this important German maker.

October 30, 2016

What the term a “fully serviced” clock really means

Everybody appreciates a serviced clock when they are making a purchase. However, there is no acceptable definition for the term “Fully Serviced”. Fully serviced may mean one thing for the amateur clock collector and repairer and another to a professional clock repair shop.

The other day I was responding to a FaceBook post which offered a mantel clock for sale. The owner said that the clock, a 100+ year old antique, had been “fully serviced” so I asked him what he meant by that since I was curious. He said the clock was ultrasonically cleaned, the pivots were inspected, and the clock was oiled. He did not actually state that the clock was disassembled before cleaning but I assume that it was done properly although dunk and swish (or duncan swish) techniques are used more often that we realize. Dunk and swish involves immersing the entire unassembled movement into a cleaning solution and calling it “cleaned”. However, no reputable clock repair person (horologist) would employ this method. By using the term “fully serviced” the seller naturally expects to get several tens of dollars more for the clock.

No doubt who ever buys the clock will get a couple of years of service before it again needs attention. My concern is the state of the bushing holes and of course the pivots in a 100 year old clock and chances are it was not serviced properly in it’s past life.

I have disassembled and serviced a few clocks in my limited experience and my observation is that the older the clock the more the need for bushing and other repairs. My definition of servicing is this; disassemble and totally strip down, ultrasonically clean, springs unwound, inspected and oiled, pivots inspected and polished, pivot holes pegged and bushings installed / replaced if necessary, other parts inspected and addressed and the movement tested and regulated before re-installing in the case. My servicing also includes a case refresh. I serviced a 1920s Sessions Beveled No. 2 clock this spring (2016) that required 12 bushings.

Sessions Beveled No. 2 case — Sessions Beveled No. 2 time and strike in as-found condition

My Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock pictured here was professionally serviced in 2015 by a reputable clock shop and also required 12 bushings.

RS Pequegnat fan top (3) — Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock in as-found condition

I am currently working on a 1940s Ingersoll Waterbury which was not too badly worn but still required 3 new bushings.

This American Ingersoll Waterbury clock, circa 1940, required 3 bushings,

If you poke around some of the clock for sale sites you will see a description that reads something like this, “all of our clocks are fully serviced and tested to ensure reliable running”. But if you bring up the profile on any one of the clocks offered for sale they generally do not describe how it was serviced and / or the actual service done on the clock.

I see plenty of antique and vintage clocks on the local online for-sale sites. Many have not been serviced as you would expect but some sellers claim that their clock has been fully serviced without providing any detail about what was actually done or whether it was a backyard tinkerer who did the servicing or a professional shop. The Juba Schatz mantel clock you see in the first photo might even be described as “serviced” but all I did was take the movement out of it’s case, inspect the pivots and other parts, oil the movement and return it to its case which took about 10 minutes.

“Fully serviced” to me means defining the term when selling a clock. A reputable for sale site should say something like this, ” has been fully serviced, having been totally stripped down, ultrasonically cleaned, reassembled, runs the full length of the wind and keeping excellent time, +/- 2 minutes per 7 day period”. A little more detail would be beneficial such as specific areas that needed to be addressed or particular repairs made if required but that is about as close as you will get and for those serious about a clock purchase it might be good enough.

Fully serviced means different things to different people. Always ask before you buy.

October 26, 2016

Mystery clock – if you know the maker, let me know

If you know the maker, let me know or direct me to where I can find out.

I was in an antique shop in a small village in the Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia lately and came across this unusual box-type wall clock. I glanced at the back of the clock and noticed that the wall anchor hook had been detached suggesting that a past owner determined that it was to be a shelf clock. What else did the previous owner(s) do to alter this clock, I wondered?

The clock measures about 24 inches tall (60 cm), about 14-15 inches wide (40 cm) and about 6 inches (15 cm) deep. The dial is about 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter. The tag on the top of the clock says, “$145 – probably English, 1920s to 1940s, needs some adjustments”. The shop owner could not say whether it would run or not.

At first glance it appears to be a conventional clock but there are a few features which I find very intriguing. I discussed the clock with the owner of the antique shop and she said that it is a railway clock which I doubt for two reasons, one, the clock dial face is too small to be seen at a distance and two, it appears to be a time and strike clock given the two winding arbors. Railway clocks usually have dials that are 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter or more and normally do not strike. Striking clocks would not be heard amid the cacophony of a typical train station.

Now, it is quite conceivable that it is not a strike clock at all but a time-only clock that has two winding arbors. Double spring clocks were not uncommon during that period and if so, it would probably make this a 15 day (or more) clock similar to this double-spring Seth Thomas railway clock pictured here. That could be the case in this instance.

Double sporing 15 day Seth Thomas — Double spring 15 day American Seth Thomas

The spade hands look original as does the clock dial pan, oak case and oak rod with what appears to be a spun brass pendulum. What appears to be missing is an oak piece (or other wood I assume) that surrounds the dial pan and hides the four dial pan mounting screws. The dial face might be a little newer. The hands are attached by a nut which would put it in the period the tag suggests.

The winding arbors are exceptionally large and would require an unconventional key. I should have put something beside the arbors to show just how large they actually are. While the owner of the shop had a number of clock keys she did not have one to fit this particular clock.

Very large winding arbors — The clock has very large winding arbors

The bezel should have a cover for the screws — The bezel should have a surround to hide the screws

The next feature I noticed is that the clock appears to have a Graham dead-beat escapement or something very similar though I could only see the top part of the escapement. The Graham deadbeat escapement has been the escapement of choice in almost all finer pendulum clocks. It might also be another type of escapement but it is impossible to say without a closer examination. Normally one would associate a recoil escapement with a cheaper spring driven clock but accuracy must have been a priority in this case.

rs-annapolis-royal-oct-16-2nd-set_12_1-1 — Beat scale

It is indeed a mystery. I would love to see what the original clock looks like. The price is not unreasonable but I wonder what else is missing besides the bezel surround and the wall anchor hook.

If you can point me in a direction, leave a reply.

October 22, 2016

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When I am in the process of buying a clock I always ask the seller this question. “How much do you know about this clock?”

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How Far Do You Go to Repair or Restore a Clock?

The Case of the Ingraham Huron Shelf Clock

Repair, Restore, or Conserve?

Questions for the Collector

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