Junghans Crispi wall clock and strike woes

Crispi clock back from the horologist — _{Antique Junghans Crispi wall clock}

During the winter of 2017, I restored an antique Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock, circa 1898.

It came to me as a box of parts. I sensed the seller fully intended to complete the project but never got around to it but at least he reconstructed the case. I saw a challenge in that collection of dusty and dirty parts.

Much of the clock is original; the movement, the pendulum, dial, hands, coil gong, and movement bracket, the bottom base and top section of the case, crown, backboard, vertical columns, and most of the decorative trim. I added glass, smaller trim features, upper finials, and their bases.

Replaced some 40 years ago is the box frame and the front section that supports the right and left columns. Parts of the clock were evidently destroyed beyond repair and the remainder salvaged for later restoration which was never completed.

Junghans clock in pieces — _{How the clock came to me}

While much of the “newer pieces” are hidden, the previous owner took care to replicate woodworking techniques of the period aside from the use of Roberston screws on the back panel.

That aside, the movement was very dirty and had not been running for many years. Perhaps it last worked just before the Halifax Explosion of 1917. The previous owner informed me that the clock was in the family home in north-end Halifax (Nova Scotia, Canada) and the clock took a significant hit from that fateful blast on December 6th.

Very dirty movement, right out of the case

After completing work on the case, I set about working on the movement. During the course of disassembling/reassembling the movement, I not only broke the strike paddle but a retention spring as well. Back then (2017), my skills were not advanced enough to repair it so I had it professionally serviced.

_{Junghans movement, broken strike paddle}

Three months later I picked up the clock and hung it on my dining room wall. It ran perfectly for over two and a half years. Some months ago the strike became erratic. It would strike incorrectly, not at all, or incessantly till the mainspring ran down.

I had a number of other clock projects on the go so I kept the time side going and left it on the wall until December 2020.

Disassembly and Inspection

Once I took the movement apart I found a slightly bent strike side cam wheel arbor. There were no other bent pivots or worn pivot holes and everything else looked good. Back in 2017 during its stay in a clock shop it had had extensive bushing work done, 6 on the front plate and 6 on the rear plate. There was a small amount of dirty oil around the pivots and after 2 plus years that is to be expected.

During the course of manipulating the plates, I snapped the paddle arbor retention spring, again! This time I was able to repair it.

_{Junghans movement spring repair upper center, Threadlocker Red at the base of the spring}

There was enough of the spring to reuse. The wire is thin (0.5mm), very brittle and it does not take much pressure to break it. Using a micro drill with a 0.5mm HHS bit I drilled out the existing hole in the plate, reinstalled the spring, and applied Threadlocker Red to bond the spring to the plate.

Re-assembly

I cleaned the parts in the ultrasonic, pegged the pivot holes, polished the pivots, and re-assembled the movement.

_{Junghans movement work ready for the rear plate}

I took a couple of attempts to line up everything on the strike side; paddle in the deep slot, cam lever in the low part of the cam, and strike paddle aligned between the points on the star wheel while ensuring that the stop wheel pin was in the 12 o’clock (approximately) position. If you have worked on German count-wheel strike movements, all this should sound familiar.

One is tempted to bend a lever or two to correct the strike side behave but in my experience, unless someone has messed with a lever in the past, it is best to leave them alone.

Junghans clock — _{Junghans movement on the test stand}

And now for testing. After several days the movement is running well and the strike side is finally behaving itself. Since there is nothing amiss I will chalk this up to a strike side design that causes it to “wander” over time or that slightly bent cam wheel arbor. One or two cycles on the test stand should be sufficient before returning it to its case.

While it was on the test stand I decided to research this clock. I visited the Junghans archive catalogue site and discovered a few new-to-me details. The clock was available in the 1898 catalog as I suspected.

_{Four Junghans wall clocks in 1898 catalog; the Cripi second from left}

The clock case is described as “old oak” with burnished brass trimmings. The Crispi, as it was called, was designated #1758 and was available with a white or ivory-colored celluloid dial or a white or ivory-colored 5 3/4 inch enamel dial (this clock). The length is forty and a third inches (103 cm) and it is a 14-day strike. Given the description of the length, in inches, the clock was likely marketed for the United Kingdom and Italy as you can see by the above catalog entry.

Overall, a successful servicing and if it “wanders” again, a simple disassembly, reassembly, and re-adjustment at some point in the future should put it right. Let’s hope that is more than two years away this time.

February 27, 2021

Auction find – E. Ingraham & Co. Grecian shelf clock

I was the successful online bidder for an E. Ingraham Grecian time and strike shelf clock in early January 2021. My wife and I had to travel 3 hours, from one part of Nova Scotia to another, to pick the clock up but since we were taking a small staycation in the nearby area the antique shop was on our way.

It is a very interesting design and I researched not only this clock but the period that influenced its design.

Let’s travel back in time to Duncan Phyfe, a prominent American furniture designer (1768-1854). His interpretation of fashionable European trends made him a major influence in the Neoclassical movement in the United States impacting an entire generation of cabinet-makers. The era of Greek furniture design quickly came to the clock world in the form of “Grecian” clocks made by a number of clock manufacturers including Joseph Ives, E. N. Welch, Seth Thomas, and Ingraham.

This is the E. Ingraham & Co.’s interpretation of the Grecian clock, called appropriately enough, the “Grecian”.

Ingraham Grecian Harris and Sons auction photo — Ingraham Grecian, auction photo (with permission Harris & Sons)

The design is a classical influence and it is not only aesthetically pleasing to patrons of the nineteenth century but remains so today. It has a molded Rosewood bezel with carved volutes below the dial frame. The dial frame and bezel are one section that makes up the hinged front access door. I have seen walnut-cased versions and mosaic maple and walnut as well. The mosaic versions are probably the most desirable.

Elias Ingraham was a case designer and no doubt had a hand not only in the design but the choice of woods used for case construction.

It has a paint-on-zinc dial, moon-shaped hands, and Roman chapters. The Grecian model was available as a 30-hour spring-driven, time and strike, 30-hour time and strike with alarm, 8-day time and strike, and 8-day time and strike with alarm. This one is the 8-day time and hour-strike alarm version. All models strike on a cast bell made of iron, or in this case, brass. Features such as exotic/mixed woods, alarm, and 8-day function would have been an extra charge at the time. The clocks were made between the years 1868 and 1883 with an 1880 catalog price of $5.25 for the 30-hour clock with alarm.

It has a green triangular-shaped paper label inside the back panel of the case which is in fair condition. There are 3 patent dates on the label, September 30, 1862, March 31, 1868, and June 6th, 1871. The newest clocks of this model would have had October 8, 1878, and still newer, November 11, 1879 patent dates so, this clock was made after 1871 and before 1878. The fact that the clock can be dated within a 5 year period is a plus.

Ingraham Grecian alarm dial auction photo (with permission Harris & Sons)

Once I receive the clock and look it over more carefully I will post my first impressions and the work that must be done to restore both the clock movement and the case to its former glory. Stay tuned.

February 17, 2021

Adjustments to a Smiths Enfield mantel clock

This is a Smiths Enfield Art Deco-style clock that reflects the clean lines and geometric design of the 1930s. It needs a few adjustments to ensure smooth operation before being listed for sale. Perfect for collectors or anyone who appreciates vintage clocks of this era.

The Smiths Clock Co. became Smiths Enfield in 1949 and the Smiths Enfield name first appeared in catalogs from 1950 onward. This oak-cased time and strike shelf clock was made somewhere between 1949 and 1955, vintage, but not antique. More information on this company can be found here. The latter part of the 1970s saw the decline of this and many other companies who fought hard to compete with inexpensive clock offerings from the Far East.

The clock keeps good time, but there’s an issue with the strike side. While the strike has a pleasant sound, it operates erratically. This may be an adjustment issue that will require removing the movement from the case for further inspection.

Once out of its case, I ran the strike side going through each hour observing the action of the levers and the snail. The setup is conventional but there is no rat tail per se on this movement just a pin or striker point midway along the rack arm. The rack pin was hitting the sloping edge of the plateau part of the snail, and the pin was not connecting with the flat section of the snail.

The Adjustment

To make the adjustment, I removed the clip and washer to release the snail. I advanced the snail to the one o’clock position and removed the snail and reinserted it so that it was placed approximately where the rack pin hits midway along the plateau of the snail. This will permit the snail to fall at the midpoint throughout the 12-hour cycle. On the test stand, I monitored the strike sequence.

Determining the sweet spot in similar movements that have a rack and snail arrangement will take some experimentation.

As expected, I found that when advancing the strike, the paddle was catching on one of the points of the star wheel. This could either stall the strike train or cause an extra strike on the hour.

Although it is a simple adjustment the mainsprings must be let down and the plates pulled apart enough to relocate the paddle arbour so that the paddle is positioned between two tips of the star wheel. In the process of manipulating the levers, one or two other wheels may pop out. After repositioning all the wheels, secure one corner of the plate with a screw and proceed with testing the strike-side action.

The clock had clearly been out of sorts for quite some time. Now that everything is properly adjusted and functioning as it should, it can be confidently sold without the dreaded disclaimer, “might need some adjustment.”

February 12, 2021

Tick Talk Tuesday #29 – A bob for a Pequegnat wall clock

DBs friend’s clock is similar to this one, an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon (2nd edition)

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile or my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

DB wrtes,

“Good morning, I stumbled across your site this morning while looking around for parts for what I think is a Pequegnat Brandon. It belongs to a friend and is missing the pendulum bob and key, but she thinks it works otherwise. I found parts that seem to be appropriate, but I’d like to find originals (or close to it) if I could.

Any advice?”

My reply,

Hi DB,

Thanks for your email. There is no known source for original Pequegnat parts although you might get lucky on eBay when clocks are parted out. It must be as close to 4.3 oz. or 125 grams, 62mm or 2.5 inches as possible, and it must be adjustable. I don’t see anything at Perrins, a Canadian supplier and the closest I could find is this one at Timesavers in the US. This one at Ronell looks to be the same but cheaper.

https://www.ronellclock.com/Adjustable-Pendulum-225-Bob-PM-63.htm?categoryId=-1

Ron

DB reply,

“Wow Ron, that’s very helpful, thank you very much.”

February 2, 2021

Solar mantel clock servicing – just one hiccup, well, a couple actually

For today’s post, we are looking at a German time and strike mantel clock with a Hermle movement and sold in Canada under the Solar name. It has a 6″ dial and dark walnut case that would have been around $50 or $60 when new in the 1960s. At about 13” wide by 7” high by and 4” deep it is small by mantel clock standards and would fit just about anywhere in a home or office.

Solar clock, just a little taller than a beer can

It has a type 141 German movement from Hermle with a recoil escapement and 11cm pendulum (200.8 bpm). The half-hour strike on a bell is pretty sound for a mantel clock but is loud enough to be heard across the house. As a testament to its design and durability, this movement is still being produced by Hermle today.

This was not a running clock when I bought it but I thought a good cleaning was all it required. Judging from mars and scratches on the backplate of the movement it has been worked on in the past.

I took the movement out of its case to examine it more closely and I was relieved when I saw that the pivots were not plated, the bane of Hermle movements from the 1970s to the late 1980s. In those days Hermle used soft steel pivots for their movements and plated them for hardness. The plating has been known to peel off and this requires repivoting which is a time-consuming process. When there is too much pivot work to be done the movement is simply tossed out. This movement predates the plated pivot period.

I did not see any evidence of bushing work on the movement but one or both mainsprings were replaced as the barrels had numerous scratch marks on them. As is typical of clocks of this period the mainspring barrels can be removed without disassembling the movement. The winding arbours simply pull out once the rachet is removed. Mainsprings on some German clocks are a known weakness.

Hermle movement, you can see the S on the strike barrel

The movement was in very good condition with minimal wear.

The movement was disassembled, parts cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner, the pivot holes pegged, and the pivots polished. The warning wheel is plastic and did not go into the ultrasonic machine, a cost-savings measure by Hermle no doubt on a part that has almost no load.

Hermle stop wheel — Hermle plastic stop wheel

I assembled the parts to check for wear and found that the movement required two bushings, the star wheel, backplate, and the lower drive wheel rear plate, both quite worn. All other pivot holes were within acceptable tolerances.

Installing two bushings

The starwheel bushing installation was simple enough. The center cannon wheel had to be removed so that the backplate bushing hole could be accessed. Bushing work went without a hitch.

Now for putting that centre wheel back on. An oval tension spring just below it must be tight enough but allow the arbour to move. Attempting to reinstall the brass washer was frustrating and as you can see I made some nasty marks trying to get it back into place (below photo). After several tries, I just could not get it tight enough.

Hermle movement, washer and tension spring — Hermle movement, washer, and tension spring

I attempted to stake the washer but that did not work. None of my stock of brass tubes had the correct inside diameter and I was reluctant to put a lot of work into making a friction washer with my mini-lathe.

Solar washer — Solar center wheel friction washer, not reusable

However, I discovered a simpler solution, a brass Bergeon bushing.

Hermle movement new washer — Hermle movement’s new friction washer is a brass bushing

The arbour is roughly 2.6mm and a bushing with an inside diameter of 2.5mm provided a good friction fit. The bushing is also large enough to cover the tension spring underneath. Perhaps not the intended purpose of a brass bushing but it works! In many other German clocks, there is a pin through the arbour and it can be easily taken off but not on this one.

Reassembly and testing

After test fitting all the parts it is off to the next stage, resembling the movement. When reassembling a rack and snail movement there a number of things to consider but in my view, the three most important steps are ensuring the warning wheel pin is in the roughly 12 o’clock position to permit a half-turn to set up the strike, that the strike paddle is between two star points and not resting on the point of star wheel (a strike train that starts up under load may stall) and that the gathering pallet pin is well clear of the rack teeth. On a typical rack and snail movement, all other adjustments are done outside the plates.

Then comes the testing phase which generally lasts a couple of weeks or more depending on what issues may arise.

In the meantime, I took the opportunity to clean the case and touch up some small chips on the decorator piece under the dial.

January 27, 2021

Solar time and strike mantel clock by Eatons – first look

In the 1960s, T. Eaton & Co., one of Canada’s most iconic department stores, offered a variety of home goods to suit the tastes of the era. Among their diverse range of products was a charming collection of clocks, including the small but striking mantel clock that continues to capture the attention of collectors today. Its distinctive style and craftsmanship represented a unique intersection of mass-market appeal and decorative elegance.

In this article, we take a closer look at this somewhat ordinary-looking clock, exploring its design, history, and place within the broader context of mid-century Canadian home décor.

A changing economic and retail environment in the late 1990s, along with mismanagement, culminated in the chain’s dissolution in 1999. As a young child, I remember pouring through the Eatons “Christmas Wish Book” trying to decide on that perfect gift….for me!

Eaton’s catalogue, as well as department stores spread across Canada, sold a variety of clocks including this mantel clock with a German-made Hermle movement under their house brand, Solar. Many of the Solar clocks sold from the 1950s through to the 1980s survive in Canadian homes to this day more as decorations rather than functional pieces.

This particular example is a time and strike mantel clock featuring a 6″ dial and a dark walnut case. Priced at approximately $50 or $60 when it was first sold, it measures around 13″ wide, 7″ high, and 4″ deep. Its compact size makes it an ideal choice for homes where space is limited, fitting comfortably in nearly any room without overwhelming the space.

Equipped with a Type 141 German movement from Hermle, this clock features a recoil escapement, an 11cm pendulum, and operates at a rate of 200.8 beats per minute. It strikes on the half-hour with a bell, though its chime isn’t particularly melodious. As a testament to its design and durability, the type 141 is still being produced by Hermle GmbH & Co. KG today.

It also came with instructions and a product card from Eatons.

When I purchased the clock, it wasn’t running, and I hoped that a thorough cleaning would restore its function. The scratches and gouges on the backplate of the movement suggest that it has been serviced before. However, I won’t know the full extent of any previous repairs until I remove the movement from its case for a closer inspection. My main concern is the possibility of plated pivots, which were a common issue with Hermle clocks from the late 1970s to the late 1980s. Fortunately, I have a strong feeling that this clock predates that troublesome period.

The case, on the other hand, is in near-perfect condition.

It will be serviced and put up for sale. I am not normally in the business of selling clocks but will sell the odd one locally to trim my collection and cover clock supplies.

Look for an upcoming blog article on the servicing of the Hermle movement.

January 19, 2021

Antiquevintageclock.com find of the year

What is my best clock find of 2020?

2020 was a very trying year for us all and I suppose that applies to clock collectors generally when it comes to acquisitions. Despite the pandemic, I managed to purchase a few clocks though obviously, not as many as in other years.

The contenders for the year are clocks from Solar, Junghans, Sessions, Arthur Pequegnat, and Fleet, leading up to the big winner of the year, a Scottish tall case clock.

Solar

First on the list is an attractive German-made Solar time and strike mantel clock, sold by the Eatons Department store chain in Canada during the 1960s and 70s.

It has a Hermle type 141 movement and strikes the half-hour on a bell. It was a non-working clock when I bought it for $20 but it was simple enough to service and now runs like a charm. I will likely sell it locally for a few dollars more.

Junghans bracket clock

For $40 I could not possibly go wrong with this bracket clock even though it was a non-working clock and need some serious TLC. I serviced the movement, refreshed the case, polished the brass, added new feet and the clock now occupies a prominent location in my family room.

Junghans Corner feet finished — Junghans time and strike bracket clock, 1911

Sessions 3W electric clock

The diminutive Sessions desk clock has a Synchron motor (60 cycles per second) and the only repair is to replace the plug. I like the simplicity and style. It has some issues consistent with an 87-year-old electric clock but it is in pretty good shape for its age.

Arthur Pequegnat

Next is an Arthur Pequegnat Canuck time and strike gingerbread or kitchen clock as it is otherwise known. This was another inexpensive find, $50 on an online for-sale site, and for $10 more, another clock completed the deal.

I spent a considerable amount of time on this clock, refreshing the case, inpainting the dial, and refurbishing the movement. I was very satisfied with the results and this clock will join my collection of 7 other Arthur Pequegnat clocks. A nice find for a very good price.

Fleet Time Company

Next is a Fleet Westminster chime mantel clock from the late 1930s, made by the Fleet Time Company of Montreal. Fleet assembled clocks for 4 short years before World War II sourcing movements from Germany with locally made cases. It is the $10 clock that was combined with the deal above.

Fleet Westminster time mantel clock, 1937

I refurbished the case and replaced the time side mainspring but did nothing to the movement except re-oil it. The case was completely stripped down to the bare wood followed by the application of a medium oak stain and a clear satin topcoat. This is a lovely mantel clock with a rich Westminster chime and I will probably keep this one in my collection since it was assembled in Montreal and represents a small but important piece of Canadian horological history.

McLachlan tall case clock

Finally, let’s come to my prize for the year, bought at a live auction in February 2020, a Scottish tall case clock assembled by William McLachlan of Newton, Steward in 1848. Completely restored were the dial, movement, and the case, which required extensive structural repairs.

With an English bell strike movement, tall, stately mahogany case, beautiful hand-painted dial and heavy 13 lb weights, this clock has a commanding presence in my home. If you have ever heard the sound of an antique bell strike clock you will understand that is it as loud as it is because it was designed to echo through a stately Scottish manor. It is a conversation piece and those who have seen it marvel at its condition and age.

Despite a difficult year, I was pleased with my purchases. I am confident that 2021 will be a better year for me as a clock collector and a better year for us all.

January 5, 2021

Happy New Year clock lovers everywhere

Ringing in the New Year is for reminiscing, reliving, looking back, and looking forward.

However, I’ll be brutally honest; let’s hope that 2021 is a better year. Indeed, 2020 will be a year that will live in infamy. It was tough but most of us got through it. However, the Antiquevintageclock.com family wish to convey our sympathy and condolences to those deeply affected by Covid 19.

At last, a New Year begins!

As champagne corks pop, glasses are raised and fireworks explode into the sky, it is important to recognize the special symbolism this holiday brings with it. Amid promises of new beginnings and fresh starts comes a time of reflection and resolutions that more often than not tend to be short-lived.

Be SMART!

Whether your goals consist of just getting out more, or renewing your relationships with loved ones, it can make all the difference when hopes are transformed into words and deeds. Be good to yourself and be good to others.

Perhaps you have made resolutions that are not necessarily clock-related and if so, avoid disappointment by making them SMART;

Specific,
Measurable,
Attainable,
Realistic and
Time-framed.

This poor broken Westclox LaSalle will never see midnight, reminds me of 2020

For those of you who are clock lovers, where will your horological journey take you this year? Will it be finding that special clock, finally servicing mom’s prized mantel clock, buying that unique clock repair tool, or reading that special clock book?

May the New Year bring you prosperity and happiness. Happy New Year everyone!

December 31, 2020

Junghans bracket clock – a small detail makes a big difference

A small change makes a big difference on a Junghans mantel clock from 1911. Let me explain.

Back in September 2020, I bought a German-made Junghans bracket style clock. It is 14 inches high by 10 inches wide by 6 inches deep, mahogany veneered, attractive brass accents, and a carrying handle on a curved domed top.

I just love the way it looks.

What about those chrome feet

The clock is original in almost every way; the quality time and strike movement is original to the clock, the spiral gong is correct; latches, bezels, and so on look good and work perfectly but for some strange reason it has replacement chrome feet and they bug the heck out of me.

Why should a small detail mar the classic lines of this clock!

After searching various online auction sites, I discovered that the original corner feet would have looked like the ones in the below photographs. I can only surmise that many years ago one fell off, got lost and the repairer simply found what would work and tossed the other three feet out.

Junghans bracket clock online — Clock feet (*Online photo, Fair Use: used informatively for the public good)*

Bracket clock feet — Clock feet (Online photo, Fair Use: used informatively for the public good)

So, where to find corner feet. There are a number of suppliers worldwide but my usual go-to supplier here in Canada, Perrins who are otherwise excellent, has a very limited selection of clock case corner feet and not in the style or size I was looking for.

US suppliers similarly have a limited supply as bracket clocks are not as popular there as overseas. England is the logical place to look since it is the land of the bracket clock.

Interestingly, the term bracket clock first appeared in 19th century England and is commonly referred to as a spring-driven pendulum table clock with a carrying handle (and often with subsidiary dials) so that it could be moved from room to room in the owner’s home. Of course, true bracket clocks had a strike silencer so as not to disturb the owner’s beauty sleep.

Using the search term “brass bracket feet” I searched the two largest suppliers in England, Cousins and Meadows and Passmore.

I found exactly what I was looking for at Cousins UK. Cousins calls the part a ridged carriage clock corner foot made of polished brass, sourced from Spain or India. They come in three sizes and for this clock, I chose the smallest one.

It took two weeks from the order date to arrival on my doorstep. I am very impressed!

Bracket clock feet Cousins — Bracket clock feet from CousinsUK (Online photo, Fair Use: used informatively for the public good)

The feet are made of brass and look to be of decent quality.

Installation was simple. Rather than risk splitting the base so near to the edge I pre-drilled the holes. Using a mini electric drill I first marked the holes with each foot in place and drilled a deep enough hole.

Two slotted brass screws are required per foot. As I screwed one screw of each foot I checked for correct orientation and made a small adjustment as necessary.

Perfect!

Corner foot for Junghans bracket clock, the screw holes are pre-drilled

The feet are very sturdy and look exactly what the manufacturer would have used at the time.

Compare this last photo with the first to see the difference the new feet make on this clock.

This is an example of a subtle but important change that is very inexpensive (less than $24) and I am sure you will agree that it makes a dramatic difference.

While I was working on this clock I visited the Junghans site and discovered a 1912 Catalogue which informs me that this clock was called the Sydney.

It was available in fumed oak or mahogany, 14 1/2 inches tall “with brass handle, inlaid polished brass designs, polished brass feet, and plain silver dial”. Both finishes were available with an 8 day or 14-day movement. The quarter strike 8-day clock had 2 gongs while the 14-day movement had 1 gong.

This then is a 14-day movement with a mahogany case and is referred to as model 7020. Judging by the name and the style, this clock was made for the English market.

It seems my research concerning the new polished brass feet paid off very nicely.

December 28, 2020

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays

This year especially has taught us to be very thankful for family, friends, and relationships. Although we will all be celebrating Christmas in a very different way in 2020, minus the get-togethers with family and friends, we must still be thankful for what we have by extending best wishes in a virtual way.

Christmas like shot — Fewer people around the dinner table

It is my wish that the New Year brings respite and relief for us all but that doesn’t mean we should not count our blessings now.

During this festive season of giving, let us take time to slow down and appreciate the simpler things in life, the love we have for each other. May this wonderful time of the year touch your heart in a special way.

If there is a clock under the tree consider it a timely gift to remind you of days gone by and of happy memories when families got together to celebrate love and togetherness.

Wishing you much happiness not just today, but throughout the New Year.

December 25, 2020

Tick Talk Tuesday #28 – What’s it for? The double ended key

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile or my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

TD says,

“Hi Ron, I’m TD. I purchased a Gilbert Clock from an antique store in xxxxxxx, Wis. It’s a Gilbert Tambour style mantel clock model 2041. It’s marked “Normandy Chime 2041.” The question I have is what is the keyhole under number 12 for? The clock sat in the store for a long time, that is till it found ME. I have a thing for old clocks. I feel they’re a living thing and it’s a shame if they’re not ticking away as long as they’re able to. Just like Us!”

Gilbert mantel clock 1925, small arbour below the 12 is for regulating the clock

Gilbert movement, the top centre is the regulating mechanism

My response,

Hi TD,

I have a Gilbert tambour 2038 with Normandy Chime which is similar in some ways. Look at the key that came with your clock. It should be doubled ended one like this one.

The small end fits into an arbor just below the “12”. This is for regulating the speed of your clock. You might see an “S” and an ”F” above the 12. Turning the key clockwise speeds up the clock and counterclockwise slows it down. If you have only a single-ended key, it is the wrong type for your clock although it will wind it up.

I also have a thing for old clocks. Be careful it is addictive.

Hope this helps.”

Whoops! Should have been published on Tuesday. My wife caught the error this morning.

December 17, 2020

Junghans bracket clock – servicing the movement

Junghans bracket style clock, tilted to adjust the beat

I posted the first look at this clock a while back.

The Regency style veneered mahogany case of this Junghans time and strike bracket clock is in reasonably good shape save for a small piece of veneer missing on the front right corner and replacement chrome feet which look decidedly out of place.

The movement ran briefly after I got it home but after a short while refused to run despite adjustments. The seller says he had had the clock for two years and never had it running so I was sure it needed a good cleaning. In any event, my plan was to service the movement.

The movement is has a maker’s mark with B11 just below it. This refers to the approximate date of manufacture, the latter part of 1911.

Removing the movement

To remove the movement remove the hands, first the minute and then the hour hand. Open the rear access door to release two thumbscrews screws underneath the movement seat board. Move the gong assembly aside (or take it out completely by releasing a screw on the bottom of the case) and remove the works.

Junghans time and strike movement, B11 is under the Junghans trademark

Assessing the movement

This is a well-made movement. Early Junghans movements were robust and strong runners. I have heard stories of Junghans clocks from this era running well despite being very worn. Junghans’s movements are a cut above Mauthe, Hermle, HAC, and other mass-produced German clocks made during this period, in my view. The movement exudes quality with solid front and back plates though lantern pinions are favoured over cut pinions.

The movement has been serviced at least once, so far as I can determine. There is an “S” mark on the strike side barrel cap, helpful when returning the barrels to their correct location. I did not measure the mainsprings but the strike side spring is notably longer than the time side. There are two possible reasons, one that the strike side mainspring was replaced at some point in the clock’s life, or two, there is more load on the strike side requiring a stronger spring.

The mainsprings are in good condition and there is plenty of power though there is more oil than necessary within the barrels. After assessing the movement I could see that there had been no significant repairs in the past. The crutch has been bent in several places in an attempt to adjust the beat but otherwise, everything looks reasonably good for the age of the clock.

Disassembly

Separating the plates was more difficult than it should have been. I had to remove all four pillars (secured by screws on both ends) to determine what was sticking. I discovered that the motion works centre arbour pivot was “stuck” in the backplate. By “stuck” I mean that although the wheel was moving freely the end of the pivot had been flattened. Why I don’t know. Had the pivot been punched in an attempt to enlarge it, had someone hammered the pivot end for whatever reason, had the pivot been replaced or it is possible that the plates had never been separated and that is how it came from the factory? Once the pivot was pried from the plate I rounded the end with a file and it now fits perfectly.

Junghans B11 movement — I use a screwdriver to point out any washer I find on a movement

All parts were cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner which removed a considerable amount of accumulated grime. As always the ultrasonic cleaner does a great job with lantern pinions and the lantern pinions, on all 6 wheels, are in excellent condition.

There has been no bushing work done on the movement. The only punch mark I observed was just below the escape wheel outside the plate where an attempt was made to close the hole.

To bush or not to bush

After cleaning the movement, pegging the holes, and polishing the pivots the next step is deciding whether or not to bush the movement.

I could see that some bushings may be required, 4 on the backplate where there is more load on the wheels and 2 on the front plate for a total of 6, 2 on the strike side, and 4 on the time side but I will make a final decision once I have checked the entire movement further.

I installed all the wheels and checked for pivot movement within their respective pivot holes. The wear was not excessive. However, after much thought, I decided there is enough lateral movement of the pivots in their holes to affect its running. Besides, I wanted to place the clock in a prominent area of the house and by addressing wear issues now the clock would run well for some time without another servicing.

Seven bushings were installed, 3 on the time side, and 4 on the strike side. The largest one, which I did not include in my initial assessment, was a 4.5mm (OD) bushing for the count wheel.

Junghans front plate count wheel bushing — Junghans front plate new count wheel bushing

Re-assembly and testing

Once all the pivot work is complete and the holes pegged out again it is time for re-assembly. Setting up the strike side of the count wheel strike means ensuring that the warning pin is sitting just off the locking lever (12 o’clock position), the drop lever is sitting on the flat section of the cam wheel, and the count lever is in one of the deep slots of the count wheel.

Testing the Junghans movement; beat amplifier attached

Only this time it was not all roses. The strike train consistently missed the half-hour strike because the count lever would drop in the middle part, not the beginning of the deep slot, occasionally missing the half-hour strike. Plus, the count lever did not completely rest on the cam. I cannot remember spending as much time correcting the strike side on a German movement as I did on this one. On one occasion I had everything together to discover that the paddle was hanging off one of the points of the star wheel. Having too much load at the beginning of the strike either will stop the strike or add one more strike to the indicated hour.

I must have taken the movement apart 5 times, and of course, each time I reassembled the movement I was wary of damaging those tiny pivots. Eventually, everything worked out. Sometimes when working with German countwheel strikes everything falls into place the first time. Not so much this time.

While on the workbench, I replaced the old tired suspension spring with a new one.

Junghans clock dial numbers have been retouched

So, after a long-overdue cleaning and a few new bushings, the movement is oiled and is on the test stand. After several small adjustments to the beat, it is now running and striking as it should.

Now to see how we can address a grimy silvered dial. Join me in a couple of weeks as I take you through cleaning the dial face.

December 12, 2020

Anniversary clock repair – a replacement suspension spring

Let me start by saying that opinions on torsion clocks are divided—some people have great success with them, while others absolutely loathe them. Despite their seemingly simple design, they can cause endless frustration, which is why many clock repairers tend to avoid them. Fortunately, I seem to be one of the lucky ones.

Kundo standard size 400 day clock — _The _{Kundo Standard size 400-day clock wound once per year}

I gifted this clock to my daughter three years ago. She chose it for its intriguing visible movement and the convenience of running an entire year without winding. Recently, she moved across the country, and during the relocation, the clock “broke.” “Can you fix it, Dad?” she asked. “Leave it with me,” I replied.

400-day clocks, also known as torsion clocks, have been around for over a century. They were first produced in limited numbers in the mid-1890s, but their popularity surged after 1900. Between then and the 1980s, thousands were manufactured, becoming a favorite choice for wedding and retirement gifts—hence the nickname “anniversary clock.”

The Kundo model featured here dates back to the late 1950s or 1960s, during the height of production. However, with the advent of quartz clocks, mechanical versions quickly fell out of favor.

Kundo is a well-known name in the world of anniversary clocks. The name is a combination of Kieninger and Obergfell, a highly respected German company. Today, the company continues as Kieninger, operating as a subsidiary of Howard Miller USA.

Dial face Kundo Clock — _{Dial face, Kundo Clock}

Servicing a 400-day Clock

To service a 400-day clock, I highly recommend using the Horolovar 400-Day Repair Guide as a reference. Can you repair a 400-day clock without it? Yes, but the Horolovar guide eliminates almost all the guesswork.

This particular 400-day clock is a Kundo Standard 53, which requires a .0032″ (0.081mm) Horolovar spring. If you don’t have the time or tools to assemble the suspension units yourself, Horolovar (or most clock suppliers) offers fully assembled units. However, these come at a significantly higher cost.

Section 10 of the Horolovar guide includes templates for various clocks. These templates provide precise patterns for positioning the fork and attaching the upper and lower blocks to the suspension wire, ensuring proper assembly.

suspension spring installed on a Kern — _{The suspension spring assembly includes the top and bottom block plus the fork}

The screws on the suspension assembly are very small, so using a high-quality precision screwdriver is essential to avoid damaging them. The suspension spring is longer than needed and will require trimming to fit. Once the spring is securely attached to the fork and blocks, it’s ready to be reinstalled onto the movement.

The suspension spring assembly hooks onto the top cock and bottom weights or balls. A threaded thumbscrew on the top base slips into the top block. The bottom block has two pins to which the pendulum hangs. Next are the back spring cover and the locking guard.

Torsion clocks have pendulum locking systems that must be engaged even when the clock is moved just a few feet. Often, the result of an unlocked clock is a broken suspension spring. The locking guard on this clock is an earlier design and looks pretty flimsy in my view but it should work.

Once the spring assembly is installed on the movement it is time to test the beat. The beat should be 8 beats per minute and there should be ample overswing in both directions. A 270-degree rotation is healthy enough.

What makes the 400-day anniversary clock a great addition to a collection?

They are:

Relatively inexpensive to buy, although some models like Schatz and Gustav Becker are more sought-after and therefore more expensive.
Very quiet in operation.
Easy to disassemble, clean, and reassemble due to having few parts.
Slow runners, meaning wear is rarely an issue.
A fantastic conversation piece.
Long runners, with some lasting 400 days or more on a single wind.

What makes them less ideal:

Notoriously inaccurate timekeepers.
Can be frustrating to fine-tune at times.

Since I had previously serviced this clock, I was able to loosen the tiny screws on the blocks and fork with ease. Sometimes they can be tight and difficult to remove, but on this occasion, everything went smoothly. As of this writing, the clock has been running well for several weeks.

While it’s currently running slightly fast, small adjustments to the regulating dial will slow it down. However, there’s a limit to how much you can adjust, and it’s not a clock I would rely on for precise timekeeping.

December 7, 2020

Cuckoo clock bellows repair

A cuckoo clock will happily run and strike without bellows but it is the bellows that create the unique sound.

When a cuckoo clock requires servicing the bellows should be inspected and if they are in poor condition they should be replaced. The constant, every hour and half-hour strike of the clock combined with the actuation of the bellows causes leaks at the creases as these are the highest wear points.

So, how does one repair the bellows?

Carefully take the old bellows tubes out with a hobby knife. On some cuckoo clocks, you may have screws that hold the bellows in place. Once they are out resist the temptation to rip them off the wood columns as the bellows themselves can be used as a template for your new bellows.

Cuckoo clock bellows easily removed by unhooking the actuator rods and releasing a screw

Here are the basic steps

Make a tracing of the bellows opening on paper. Scape away all the old covering and old glue with an Exacto knife or similar. Using TYVEK, cut a piece of material approximately 2 inches by 7 inches. On the fixed end of the two bellows pieces glue a new hinge with a strip of TYVEK.

Cuckoo clock bellows use as a template — The old Cuckoo clock bellows can be used as a template

Using the template you made earlier and with the bellows open wrap the TYVEK around the bellows. After you are satisfied that it will fit, apply Seal-All or a carpenter’s yellow glue to all outside edges. The sides will have a V-shape. Press the TYVEK to the sides and ends of the bellows for about 2-3 minutes until the glue sets. Trim any excess TYVEK.

Wait for about two hours until the glue is dry. Using a popsicle stick or similar, start by gently making the creases pushing inward as you go. Press the bellows together and clamp (or rubber band) for 24 hours. The TYVEK needs to be formed so that it knows which way to fold when the bellows are actuated.

When done reinstall the bellows back into the clock case, connect the actuators, and re-attach the back cover.

If you hear a “Cuck” but no “Koo” you’ve done something wrong. Once you’ve done a few of these you will get it right every time.

Enjoy the unique sound of your cuckoo clock.

December 3, 2020

Junghans bracket clock – first look

I found this German mantel clock on a local online buy and sell site. The seller had two clocks, one, a generic German-made Westminster chime and this, a Junghans bracket-style clock. I knew right away that this was the better deal. It appeared to be a higher quality clock compared to the other one. I offered a slightly lower price and the seller quickly accepted. He said he never had it running in the two years he owned it and added, “I got to get rid of it, I’m moving”.

During my search to find the model name or number I came across one listed on eBay at the time of writing and two others while browsing similar auction sites. None had the model name or number but prices are all over the map, ranging from $50 to $300. I still do not know the model name or number.

Although it has a carrying handle on the domed top and would be termed a bracket clock, let’s just call it a rather plain-looking mantel clock with a handle. When I envision a classic bracket clock I picture a clock with verge escapement, subsidiary dials over a signed dial housed in a gaudy case. Let’s call this a poor relation.

Junghans clock side view, not cleaned yet

The Regency style veneered mahogany case is in reasonably good condition save for a small piece of veneer missing on the bottom side front and replacement chrome feet which look decidedly out of place. It has not been cleaned in ages and scrubbing with soap and water removed a considerable amount of built-up dirt revealing a very attractive case.

The silvered dial shows some aging consistent with wear and caused when advancing the hands many times combined with the simple act of winding the movement arbors. The hands are original judging from other clocks like it. I may touch up the numbers and the hands in addition to giving the dial a cleaning to spruce things up a bit but we’ll see when I look at it further.

The dial catch, back access catch, and hinges work well. These often break from constant use.

Judging from scratch marks on the backplate, the movement has been worked on in the past. I won’t know the extent or quality of past servicing until I take the movement out of its case and examine it more closely. The movement has a maker’s stamp with B11 just below the mark. This refers to the approximate date of manufacture, the latter part of 1911.

When I brought it home the clock ran briefly, stopped, and failed to proceed. It will need a thorough servicing and a few adjustments to get it running again.

November 29, 2020

Forestville mantel clock servicing – not fun when things go wrong! Part II

Back in October (2020), I wrote about the challenges of working on this mantel clock by Forestville.

Recap so far

It is a nondescript Art Deco-style German mantel clock made in the 1960s sold under the Forestville name, a Toronto-based company that assembled clocks up to the 1970s.

The rack and snail movement is relatively simple to work on with all the adjustments, save for the stop wheel, on the outside of the plates. The mainspring barrels can be removed separately for servicing, typical of movements of the period.

The hairspring escapement is something I did not attempt to clean. They can be finicky to work on and if the movement has been running beforehand, like this one, there is no pressing need to mess with it. Three screws detach it from the movement.

The bane of clockmakers – the broken pivot

When working with German and French movements particularly one must always be very careful of the small pivots. Normally when I work on this type of clock I am very aware of how easy it is to bend or break the tiny pivots and this clock was no exception. After taking apart the movement and reinstalling the gears to determine bushing wear I noticed the front plate center wheel pivot had come off.

Thinking I was careful guiding each pivot in place with a pivot locator I either applied too much pressure closing the plates or it was hanging on like a tread. Regardless, it broke. Compared to a pair of tweezers it is very small.

Broken pivot compared to a pair of tweezers

My experience with pivot repair is limited. I don’t come across broken pivots very often. Compared to an American clock that has much larger pivots these are tiny, perhaps 0.5mm or so. Although I have bushings that fit I do not have pivot wire that size and had to make do with a piece from my assortment of 0.85mm to 1.10mm wire. Not pretty but functional.

First, using a centring bit followed by a high-speed bit on my Taig metal lathe, I drilled 5mm into the shaft, enough to securely anchor the pivot wire. Once the wire was inserted, I applied high-strength Permatex Threadlocker Red to secure the wire in place.

A centring bit is essential when drilling a starting hole in an arbour.

After the 24 hour curing period for the adhesive, I installed a bushing in the front plate and put the gears back together to check the action of the new pivot. It is working okay. I will reserve judgment on the repair until the other bushings are installed.

There is more wear on the time side that at least 3 new bushings are required, two on the front plate and one on the back.

Out of an abundance of caution, I installed an additional 2 bushings. In total are T2, T3, T4, rear plate, and T4, T5, front plate. All bushings are on the time side which tells me that the strike side did not see much action, typical for many mechanical clocks since some folks find the noise of the strike bothersome.

2 new bushings on the front plate, new pivot in the centre of the photo (untrimmed)

3 new bushings on the rear plate using a Bergeon Bushing Machine

Servicing the mainspring barrels was more frustrating than I anticipated. Both mainsprings refused to catch on their hooks when I attempted to install them back into their barrels. The mainspring opening must be precisely on center to catch. Lesson learned; after a few tries, I successfully got them hooked back into the barrels.

Re-assembly

The new pivot was trimmed to fit and given a final polish prior to installation. Now to put it all together and see if the work has paid off.

I was especially careful putting everything back together and very mindful of how easy it is to snap off one of the delicate pivots. All went well. On the test stand, I ran the strike side through its sequence; it is going into warning and striking on the half-hour as it should. Now for the time side.

Repairing a broken pivot. Left on the lathe overnight to cure the adhesive and keep the pivot straight.

At first, the escape wheel would stop after a minute or so but after oiling the pivots including those on the hairspring (minus the jewelled ones, of course) it runs well.

Testing the Forestville movement on a non-standard stand

I will continue with the test of the movement but so far, after two 8-day running cycles, things are looking very good. The next step is to re-install the strike hammers and other moving parts and return the movement to its case.

November 19, 2020

Choosing a mechanical clock as a gift

It is that time of the year when you begin searching for that unique gift. Of course, there are a multitude of choices but have you considered a mechanical clock as a gift? Let me provide you with a few tips.

Mechanical clocks harken back to the old days when life was simpler; no mobile telephones, no internet, and no streaming TV. Ah, those were the days!

Okay, so you are reasonably sure that a mechanical clock would be appreciated by the receiver. What to buy? There are a plethora of choices out there and certainly, clocks that would fit every budget from the simple and cheap American kitchen clock to a rare 19th century Boulle figural French mantel clock. Let me attempt to narrow your choices, not with a specific clock but a buying strategy.

Mechanical clocks appeal to those who enjoy the sound, the strike of a clock, or those who merely appreciate it as part of their decor. These factors will influence your choice as a gift.

Here are two examples of clocks I have gifted to my family. My son and his partner have a German Schatz W3 bracket clock in a custom case. It is in excellent mechanical in running condition but it stays quiet on their shelf. Nevertheless, it is the centrepiece for their fireplace mantel.

My daughter has a Sessions Raven 8-day mantel clock which sits atop a bookcase in their family room. It only runs when my wife and I visit.

But they love their clocks.

The following two categories might assist you in your decision to buy a clock for your loved one, a friend, or a business associate.

Category 1 – Those recipients who appreciate a running clock

You will want to avoid a non-working clock. Unless you have the skills in clock repair or know someone who can work on it, it is best to steer away from those. Many sellers use the phrase, “may need some adjustment” which is almost always a red flag for a clock that has issues. These are the cheapest clocks, and for good reason, they are simply worn out.

You may also get lucky and find that special mechanical clock that has been recently serviced and is in good running order but you will pay more because the seller is interested in recouping their investment in the clock.

Buying a clock from a reputable clock repair retailer is a good bet if the clock has been serviced and a warranty is provided but expect to pay significantly more.

Otherwise, there are many buy and sell online sites. I would shop locally and avoid eBay or other online auction sites. Auction sites are a real crapshoot complicated by high shipping costs and the risk that the clock might arrive broken. Yes, that has happened to me!

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, 15-day, double spring time-only

The sound of a ticking and striking clock in a room is very soothing for some. For others., not so much

Most clocks are 8-day running which means that they must be wound once per week. There are some quality 15-day and 30-day clocks but they are few and far between.

Daniel Dakota wall clock, one of Tempus Fugits more popular models — Daniel Dakota wall clock, made in China

Of the 30-day clocks avoid anything made in China. While 1-day clocks such as Cuckoo clocks and antique Ogees are plentiful and look terrific, winding a clock every day wears thin after a while.

George H Clark 30-hour ogee clock — George H Clark 30-hour or 1-day ogee clock

Check out this post on how to buy an antique clock.

Category 2 – Those recipients who want a mechanical clock as a decoration

Then, there are the folks who are not really that interested if the clock runs or not but want something that fits their decor and is a good conversation piece. A non-working clock with a good case is perfect. If it has the original movement but it is not working there is always the option of fixing it later. Personally, I would shy away from any clock that has its mechanical movement replaced with a quartz one.

Focus on the condition of the case. Is it missing any parts, has recent work been done it, does it look authentic? Does it catch people’s attention?

For example, here is a very attractive Seth Thomas 8-day round top in a bold Rosewood case that has had only one minor veneer repair and a replacement dial face, but it looks great!

You bought the clock but the case is very dirty. Clean it! Some folks might argue that one should not clean a clock case so as to maintain it’s original patina. But, isn’t patina just another word for dirt? Soap and water with gentle scrubbing will make a huge difference. Check out this before and after photo of the cleaning of a clock face.

Junghans clock dial after cleaning with soap, water, and Q-tips

And this before and after photo of a gingerbread clock. You need not want to go the extra distance in retouching the dial but soap and water is an easy and non-invasive method of improving the look of the case itself.

Very grimy clock case especially the base section

After photo showing a clean case and a retouched dial — After, showing a clean case and a retouched dial

Final words

A mechanical clock makes an excellent gift and it is something that can be passed down from one generation to the next. My kids appreciate a mechanical clock from their dad and I will gift them one that is in excellent mechanical condition but I am not bothered if they use it merely as a decoration.

November 15, 2020

Approaching 200,000 views and 58,000+views so far this year

Clock face Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock

In my home, I have a dedicated room to work on my clocks

Five years ago I attended a workshop on WordPress at our local community college. It taught me more about blogging than I ever knew. The idea of a clock blog intrigued me but it is a lot of work, there is much learning and it was not something I wanted to design from the ground up but WordPress came to the rescue. It has an easy-to-do template approach and the only task was providing the content. So, I began the journey of documenting my horological interests and experiences.

The first few months were discouraging. I had very few views and likes which seem to be the lifeblood of many blogs. There is a strong blogger community out there and once connected to that community you get a feel for those sites that are quite successful and offer terrific content and those that quickly run out of steam.

A computer is not only essential for clockwork but it is the tool I use to compose my blogs

It takes time and patience to build a strong audience. It is also a healthy practice in blogging to follow other blogs and support their content and I am seeing a lot of excellent content.

Clock collecting and repair is a passion but I struggle with my writing and try to envision what my audience would like to see in my posts. Writing is not my forte but years working in academia had taught me to convey my thoughts on paper for my students in an effective way. I took notes on what other bloggers were doing, what made their sites engaging so as to improve my writing.

Contentwise, my intention was never to satisfy expert horologists and those in the clock repair business though I certainly don’t mind if they drop by from time to time, make comments, and offer their perspective. I consider myself a clock repair generalist and judging from my mail I seem to appeal to those who are amateurs like myself and those who have stumbled onto my site looking for advice and guidance on clock collecting and repair.

As a self-taught horologist and over the last 11 years, I have gained knowledge and experience working on a wide variety of mechanical clocks. Cabinet or case restoration is also an interest. I do not operate a clockmaking business and I am not a clock vendor though I will sell the odd clock locally to manage my collection.

I have received many comments. Some offer suggestions and advice on projects I am working on while others are looking for direction on their particular clock problem. I provide whatever assistance I can and within my scope of expertise.

Testing in the clock case rather than on a stand — Testing an ogee movement

Stats – the lifeblood of a blog

Like it or not, statistics are the lifeblood of a blog. I receive over 200+ views per day. The top 6 viewers are in the USA, Canada, United Kingdom, Australia, South Africa, and Germany.

Writing articles well in advance and scheduling publication dates help with blog planning particularity when I am vacationing and cannot find the time to write.

My regular features, Tick Talk Tuesday, Crazy Clock Ads, and What Is This Thing For look at the lighter side of clock collecting and repair.

If you are new to my blog, welcome, there is plenty to read. If you are a regular viewer, thank you for supporting me and if you have any ideas for future articles let me know.

November 11, 2020

The essential clock repair library according to Antiquevintageclock.com

Whether you are working on your first clock movement or have repaired dozens, instructional resources, I believe, are essential. There is only so much information gained from a YouTube video (sadly some information is plain wrong) or how-to instructions online and there comes a point in time when you simply must have more detailed information.

An example of a Canadian made gingerbread-style clock

Opinions vary as to what constitutes an essential clock repair library but in this post, I will present those resources for the novice in the clock repair world and for those of you who have taken further steps in your journey.

Most of my work is with American and Canadian clocks, though some are German, some French, and of course, some British. Here are my go-to books starting with the Steven G. Conover series.

My Four Conover books (or manuals) are:

Clock Repair Basics
Striking Clock Repair Guide
Chime Clock Repair
Clock Repair Skills

Conover is very hands-on with plenty of diagrams and detailed step-by-step instructions. He will walk you through the repair of a broad range of clocks while discussing trouble areas, repair how-tos and challenges.

I am always on the lookout for clock repair books but sadly most of what I have has gone out of publication years ago although some can be found in the sections of used books on Amazon

Next are my Laurie Penman books.

They are;

The Clock Repairer’s Handbook
Common Clock Escapement

While some of his descriptions are quite technical and more targeted towards advanced clock repair he explores the basics as well.

Working with Anniversary or 400-day clocks requires the Horolvar 400-day Clock Repair Guide. 400-day clocks can be quite finicky and you are asking for trouble if you do not have this resource. The perfect companion is Mervyn Passmore’s book entitled Anniversary Clock Adjusting. It is a little short on depth but simple and to the point.

Next are three books by Philip E. Balcome

The Clock Repair First Reader – Second Steps for the Beginner
The Clock Book – An Overview of Heirloom and Contemporary Clocks in the American Home (not a repair book per se but a guide to identifying clock parts, types, styles, and trends)
The Clock Repair Primer – The Beginners Handbook

Balcome books are easy reads and are targeted for beginners and more advanced repairers as well.

Canadian John Plewes’s Repairing and Restoring Pendulum Clocks is an excellent resource for Canadian homegrown clocks. He explores specific clocks, describes repair challenges as well as provide tips and tricks on a number of clocks from not only Canada but all over the world.

Extreme Restoration By T. E. Temple should be in everyone’s library. Temple explores everything from evaluating a project, clock case refinishing, restoring glass, and tablet renewal. His how-to step-by-step instructions are easy to follow. Although the photos in his book are black and white to reduce cost, a companion website provides colour photos.

Though not directly related to clock repair the Home Machinist’s Handbook by Doug Briney explores bench tools, home lathes, Milling machines, treating and finishing the final product.

I am always on the lookout for clock repair books but sadly most of what I have has gone out of publication years ago although some can be found in the sections of used books on Amazon. I scour used book stores and flea markets to grab pretty much anything I can find.

Although I do not have any of Tran Duy Ly’s excellent reference books I am always on the lookout for them. Of course, they are not about clock repair specifically but they are great resources for identifying the many models and types of clocks from dozens of makers over the years.

A typical reference in Tran Duy ly’s Ansonia clock book

Well, there it is, my essential library of clock repair resources. Of course, there are many other resources and if there is anything else you feel should be on this list, let me know.

November 7, 2020

Daylight Savings Time ends – time to set your clocks behind one hour

Let’s get rid of DST. It is anachronistic, a dumb nuisance and there is no place for it in our modern world. Today, of the 195 countries in the world, approximately 70 countries utilize Daylight Saving Time in at least a portion of the country. Japan, India, and China are the only major industrialized countries that do not observe some form of daylight saving.

Circa 1890: Sir Sandford Fleming ( 1827 – 1915 ), **Canadian** engineer responsible for the Inter-Colonial Railway and the Canadian Pacific Railway, as well as devising an internationally accepted scheme for standard time. (Photo by Hulton Archive/Getty Images)

For the present, we, in those 70 countries, have to live with it.

So, set your clocks back one hour if you live in an area where the convention is still followed.

Top showing face and crown detail — Set your clocks

Typically, regions that use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time. In Canada, we have a little expression, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.

There has been a push to scrap the time-switch in Canada. It is stupid, needless, and senseless. Are you listening Nova Scotia government?

October 31, 2020

Organize your clock collection with a spreadsheet

“How do you keep track of the work you do on your clocks?”, asked a reader. Read on and I will explain the method I use and one that may work for you.

With over 100 clocks in my collection, it is hard to remember what service I performed on a particular clock, when a repair was completed, where I bought the clock, the original purchase price, and the date acquired. I had to have a method of organizing that type of information that was both easy to access and gave me data at a glance.

Don’t have MS Office or refuse to pay for it, try LibreOffice and its spreadsheet called “Calc Spreadsheet”. It’s free!

My practice is to check the condition of every clock in my collection every 3-4 years and some more often. During the inspection process, I note any issues to be addressed, remediate at that time, or plan a time to service the movement/make a repair. If there are no issues I simply apply clock oil to the movement (assuming it requires lubrication) and record the date the work was done.

Without a method of tracking inspections, repairs, and other pertinent information I would have to rely on my memory or notes I may have taken at the time. At first, I used a notebook but I would forget where I put it, could not read my own writing, or simply forgot to record data. I am sure that some of you rely on notes or scribblers to record information and find that method to be reliable but it doesn’t work for me.

I had used Microsoft’s productivity software, Excel in my former work life, was comfortable with it, understood its power, its ease of use, its ability to be customizable, and found that it is an excellent method of organizing information in a form that is readily accessible. And so I went about setting up a spreadsheet for my clock collection.

A computer is an integral part of my workspace

Spreadsheets can be intimidating because they seem complex and there is a bit of leg work setting one up. You need only master the very basics of the program and there is no need for intricate formulas unless they are required. Excel and similar productivity programs are powerful products and are an excellent method of tracking and recording information. When combined with cloud storage I can access my spreadsheet from any computer, phone, tablet, etc. at any time. If I am on an extended vacation where I acquire, sell, or service new clocks I can access my spreadsheet and update information on the fly.

So here it is.

My file, “Clock collection valuation and service schedule” contains the following information for each clock in my collection as well as clocks that I have said goodbye to.

Maker,
Model or type,
Country of Origin,
Motion type (time-only, time and strike, time strike and chime),
Original purchase price,
Current Value,
Year of manufacture (or approximate),
Date acquired,
Sold or gifted (I try to cover my original purchase as much as possible)
Service date,
Date oiled,
Notes (general state of movement, problem areas (case or movement), repairs required, bushings installed, new parts, etc.)

This is an example of a small section of the spreadsheet.

A spreadsheet has worked well for me for the past several years and it is a great way to record the required information on each clock in my collection. It is both quick and easy to see at a glance what work I have done on a particular clock and meets all of my data recording needs.

Don’t have MS Office or refuse to pay for it, try LibreOffice and its spreadsheet called “Calc Spreadsheet”. It’s free!

October 24, 2020

Forestville mantel clock servicing – not fun when things go wrong! Part I

This post is about a mantel clock made by the Forestville Clock Company of Canada and some challenges servicing the movement.

In 2013 we were on a visit to the Thousand Islands and stopped at an antique store in Gananoque, Ontario. As my wife and I were strolling through the store and she noticed this mantel clock made by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto. Somewhat plain in style it seemed to be in great shape and it was exactly what we were looking for at the time.

History of the Blackforest Clock Co. and Forestville Clock Co. of Toronto

The Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto, Ontario was founded by Leopold and Sara Stossel in 1928. Both clock movements and complete clocks were imported from Germany and sold through department and jewelry stores across Canada. Their son Ed Stossel started working part-time with his parents’ company in the 1930s and later became a full-time employee in the late 1940s.

Some assembly work was carried out in their Wellington Street East factory. Initially imported mantel clock and grandfather clock movements were installed in cases made in Kitchener (home of the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company), but later the complete mantel clocks were imported from Germany. This arrangement was interrupted by the Second World War, which also led to a name change to the Forestville Clock Company in 1941. During the war years, the company imported its clock movements from England, the United States, and France. However, starting in the mid-1950s German factories again became the source of most Forestville clocks, with Mauthe being a major supplier.

The Forestville Clock Company was very successful during the middle decades of the twentieth century. Its grandfather clock cases and some of the wall clock cases were made in Canada. Ed Stossel retired in 1979 and unfortunately, the company survived just a few more years without his leadership.

Most Blackforest and Forestville mantel clocks still have their paper labels tacked inside the back door. This one does not.

My Forestville mantel clock

This clock movement and case are imported from Germany in the 1960s. There is a serial number on the backplate but no database exists online to date this clock. I am thinking that the movement is made by Mauthe

The pivots and bushings appear to be in good condition at first inspection. The clock keeps good time and there is a simple speed adjustment on the hairspring escapement to regulate the clock. This mantel clock is handsome, has good lines and reflects the style of the period.

Servicing the movement

After 7 years I have put off servicing the movement far too long. The rack and snail movement is relatively simple to work on with all the adjustment wheels, save the warning pin, on the outside. The mainspring barrels can be removed separately for servicing, common for movements of the 60s,

The hairspring escapement is something I will not attempt to clean. They can be finicky to work on and if the movement has been running beforehand, like this one, there is no pressing need to fool with it. It is well protected by a plastic shroud. Three screws unhook it from the movement.

While there is some wear on the time side I see at least 3 new bushings required, two on the front plate and one on the back.

When working with German and French movements one must always be very careful of the delicate pivots. Normally when I work on these clocks I am aware of how easy it is to bend or break a pivot and this clock was no exception. However, I had the movement apart and was reinstalling the gears to determine bushing wear and went about repositioning the center gear when I noticed its centre cannon front plate pivot had sheared off.

Arrow indicates center wheel with broken pivot (strike barrel removed)

I was not even aware that I was putting undue pressure on the pivot as I was carefully guiding each pivot in place with a pivot locator. However, either I applied too much pressure or it was ready to go because I broke a pivot. To give a sense of how small it is, here it is beside a pair of tweezers.

My experience with pivot repair is very limited. This is not like a broken or worn pivot on an American clock which is less challenging to repair because they are simply much bigger. This pivot is small, perhaps 0.5mm or so. Although I have bushings that size I do not have pivot wire that small and had to make do with a piece from my assortment of 0.85mm to 1.10mm wire.

Repairing a broken pivot, pivot wire is glued in place and left on the lathe overnight

I centred the arbour with a centring bit and then using a high-speed bit, drilled to about 4 or 5mm into the shaft, enough to anchor the pivot wire. Once the wire was inserted, I used high-strength Permatex Thread Locker Red to secure the wire which takes 24 hours to cure. The next day I installed a bushing in the front plate and put the gears back together to check the action of the new pivot. It is working okay. I was not convinced the repair would work but I will reserve judgment until the other 3 bushings on the time side are installed.

Can’t wait to find out if the repairs are successful? It’s a long wait but on November 25th, I will present the results.

October 19, 2020

Ansonia Syria parlour clock – Part II

Over the summer of 2020, I was asked to service a friend’s clock. It is an attractive machine-carved oak Ansonia Syria parlour clock in the popular Arts and Crafts style of the late 19th century.

It has great sentimental value to my friend but she recognized that it was in need of adjustment or repair. It had been in her late husband’s family for a number of years and she wanted it to preserve it as a reminder of his life.

This is Part II of a two-part series. My general comments and first impressions are found in Part I which you can find here.

It is an attractive clock in relatively good shape for its age. From my research, I have determined that it was made sometime in the early to mid-1890s.

Time and strike movement with an 1882 patent date

In this post, I will continue with disassembly, cleaning, general comments about the condition of the movement, and any potential trouble spots.

Dis-assembly and servicing the movement

The movement is held in the case by 4 screws. Once out of the case the first order of business is to restrain the mainsprings with mainspring C-clamps before separating the plates. Safety is paramount; those springs are powerful.

Although C-clamps are the round type in the following photo I prefer flat clamps for most American movements. Either will do but flat clamps are perfect for tight spaces.

After disassembly, my Olie Baker spring winder was put into action to unwind the spring, inspect it for cracks, surface rust, or any other issues.

Each mainspring is stretched out and cleaned with a Scotchbight pad and WD-40. It is carefully wiped down leaving no trace of the WD-40 and placed in the ultrasonic cleaner for 20 minutes. Once out of the ultrasonic cleaner, you must work quickly to dry and clean the mainspring. Rust is insidious and will creep in quickly.

The mainsprings looked very good and once cleaned and carefully inspected I have no hesitation reusing them.

A mainspring is cleaned, oiled and returned to its arbour

I applied a drop of Keystone mainspring oil on each of the coils, wound the spring several times to spread the oil. Once the C-clamp is re-applied and hooked on to the arbour, the excess oil is wiped away. The clicks are in good shape, sometimes a weakness in American movements. At this point, there is nothing more to be done to the mainsprings until the movement is assembled, so, let’s put them aside.

I try to minimize wrestling with American time and strike movement so that once I have the top plate on I loosely attach the bottom two screws and move to the time side because the strike side wheels and levers can be the most frustrating to position correctly and are left to the last

I inspected each of the wheels and pivots for wear and found everything including the lantern pinions to be in generally very good condition with one exception. There is minor wear on the flywheel lantern pinions but not enough to warrant replacement at this point.

I usually put the time and strike gears and pretty much everything else in one or two containers. When you have done many movements you learn to quickly identify the location of each component. I can take out any wheel or lever, for example, and identify its specific location. However, if you are just starting out or have not built up enough confidence I highly recommend separating the two sides. In the early days of clock servicing, that is exactly what I did.

I was curious to find that a past repairer scratched “S” (for strike) and “T” (for time) on each one of the wheels according to their location. I understand why but esthetically it does not look good. However, marking the mainspring arbours came in handy. I make it a point to return each mainspring on the arbour they came from. In most cases, the mainsprings are the same length and thickness but every now and then I come across two different sizes. Better to be safe than sorry. That aside the movement appears to be in good condition.

Once the parts are cleaned and dried and the pivot holes are pegged it is on to the next step, pivot polishing. I use a #11 Emory board to polish pivots. I secure each of the wheels in a 3-jaw chuck on my Taig metal lathe and move the Emory boards in an up and down motion to polish the pivots.

Following the polishing, it is on to any bushing work that may be needed. In the case of this movement, two bushings were needed, the second wheel, front plate and the fourth wheel backplate. Here, a new Bergeon brass bushing is pushed into the bottom plate.

New Bergeon bushing. Notice the fixed lifting lever, lower left

Movement Re-assembly

And now for re-assembly and testing.

Since the lifting lever is attached to the bottom plate and is otherwise immoveable the count lever is the only component that has to be put in its correct location.

I try to minimize wrestling with American time and strike movement so that once I have the top plate on I loosely attach the bottom two screws and move to the time side because the strike side wheels and levers can be the most frustrating to position correctly and are left to the last.

Once the time side wheels and the hour gear are in place I attach the third screw and then work the wheels and levers into place on the strike side. Once everything is in place I tighten all the screws. A pivot locator is your best friend when re-assembling any movement.

On the first attempt, I was not able to synch the strike side locking wheel (sometimes you get lucky the first time) but I mounted the movement on the test stand overnight to check out the time side and the next day it was running as expected. The locking wheel pin needs to be adjusted but that can wait till tomorrow.

One issue raised its head after re-assembly. The strike side gears were not moving at all. I tested each gear and found the flywheel (governor) was sluggish and had no end shake. It freed up if the nut nearest the flywheel was loose enough. The reason. A past repairer installed a bushing that was too tall for the plate. End shake allows freedom of the movement when the plates are screwed tightly down. I filed down the protruding bushing on the inside of the plate and the strike side then ran smoothly.

Next day

Now to open up the top part of the strike side to reposition the locking wheel. Safety first. I restrain the mainsprings just in case the whole thing explodes. I re-positioned the stop pin so that it is resting on the stop lever and presto, everything is working as it should.

I would like to refresh the case but the owner left strict instructions to leave it as-is.

October 9, 2020

Scottish tall case clock with new top finials

The final step in the repair/restoration of my tall case clock are the top finials. This clock had top corner finials at one point in its life. There is evidence that something was there on either side of the crown. I have no idea what they might have looked like but judging from photos of many tall case clocks of the 1850s period they were likely a brass ball type.

My first sight of the clock in a corner of an auction house

It is a classic Scottish tall case design from the 1850s. The removable bonnet is 23 inches at its widest point, the waist is 15 3/4 inches wide and the base is 20 inches wide. The bonnet has tapered columns on either side. The dial access door which covers the entire bonnet swings to the right. The solid wood access door on the waist measures 9 X 24. The clock stands approximately 84 inches.

Continue reading “Scottish tall case clock with new top finials” →

September 27, 2020

Ansonia Drop Extra does not run and a rusty mainspring is the culprit

Some time ago I wrote an article on an interesting acquisition, an Ansonia Extra Drop, a true barn find.

This Ansonia Extra Drop time-only Rosewood veneered wall clock was manufactured in the early 1880s by what was then known as the Ansonia Brass and Copper Company.

It was in pretty rough shape when I bought it and the only significant part missing is the brass dial bezel and a number of minor items such as the verge, hands, pendulum bob, suspension spring/rod, and the drop access door (which I made later on).

I was challenged by the whole prospect of putting the many pieces back together and giving what most would consider a throw-away movement, a second chance.

Siezed time-only movement — A sad-looking and seized time-only movement

Here is the movement when I found it. What a sight! I thought if I stripped away all the rust and dirt something of value would be salvageable. How many of you would simply toss it out?

After disassembly, scrubbing, cleaning, and one new escape wheel bushing here is the final result.

Cleaned up time only movement — Cleaned and serviced time only movement

First servicing

The fact that the spring was unwound on the movement when I received it tells me two things. One, the chance that it is “set” is reduced and secondly, having an open coil means more surface rust on the outer part of the spring.

I did my best to remove most of the rust on the mainspring and it went back in the movement. A short while later I discovered that the clock would only run if I wound it about halfway. Otherwise, if wound tight it would not run at all. The surface rust was evidently causing it to stop.

Some clockmakers who after observing any rust on a mainspring would immediately toss it out and argue that the spring is weaker because of the presence of surface rust. In this case, the mainspring is unsightly but has no cracks and has plenty of power.

Other repairers apply a liquid or gel, black tea, or even use electrolytic rust removal to extricate the rust. I know I risk igniting a debate about mainspring replacement and if I were in the business of clock repair, I would certainly toss out the mainspring and pass the cost on to the customer. However, I am hesitant to spend money on a new mainspring for what is essentially a $5.00 barn-find clock and my challenge was to spend as little money as possible on this clock.

During the initial servicing, I managed to get rid of most of the mainspring rust.

Second servicing

Still some problems. After several months I took it apart again, ran the parts through my new ultrasonic cleaner which I did not have at the time of the first servicing. I placed the mainspring in as well. Scotch Brite abrasive pad and WD40 combined are excellent for cleaning a mainspring and I was able to effectively smooth out the rough and rusty outer sections of the mainspring. Again, I checked for cracks and suspicious imperfections and found none. After rubbing the abrasive pad over the mainspring several times I gave it a healthy coating of Keystone mainspring oil. A smoother, rust-free mainspring should function a lot better.

Rather than mount the movement on the test stand, I installed it back into its case but left the dial off so I could monitor it more closely. It runs very well and has run several full 8-day cycles.

Ansonia movement in case — Ansonia movement in its case

I realize that I have pushed the limit of this mainspring and the next step is a replacement but we’ll see what happens after the testing period.

Weeks later

The movement continues to run well and now it is time to put everything back together.

September 23, 2020

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The Adjustment

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Servicing a 400-day Clock

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I am always on the lookout for clock repair books but sadly most of what I have has gone out of publication years ago although some can be found in the sections of used books on Amazon

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Don’t have MS Office or refuse to pay for it, try LibreOffice and its spreadsheet called “Calc Spreadsheet”. It’s free!

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I try to minimize wrestling with American time and strike movement so that once I have the top plate on I loosely attach the bottom two screws and move to the time side because the strike side wheels and levers can be the most frustrating to position correctly and are left to the last

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