Category: beginner

Winding a mechanical clock – A How-To Guide

Ingersoll-Waterbury mantel clock

In this age of everything electronic, it may surprise some people that a newly acquired mechanical clock bought at the local garage sale, flea market or antique store needs to be wound on a regular basis. Winding a mechanical clock takes a level of care but a few simple guidelines should have you on your way.

Here’s how to wind an antique or vintage mechanical clock correctly. By following these tips and guidance, you’ll gain the skill and confidence needed to wind your clock properly and maintain its functionality.

Let’s begin by discussing some basic terms.

Winding Arbours or Winding Points and Their Function

On your clock’s dial (excluding cable-driven tall case clocks or any clock that has pull-up weights), you will notice one, two, or three holes, known as “winding arbours” or winding points.

Junghans Corner feet finished
A typical German mantel clock

For example, a clock with one winding hole is a time-only clock. Two winding holes typically indicate a time-and-strike clock. These clocks strike the hour on the hour and may also strike on the half-hour, either on a bell or gong.

Each arbour serves a specific purpose, and the number of winding arbours indicates the number of gear trains (or sets of gears) in the clock.

Clocks with three winding arbours chime on the quarter-hour, producing a musical tone. On such clocks, the center arbour winds the time train, the left arbour winds the strike train, and the right arbour winds the chime train.

On some clocks, there is a smaller hole on the clock face near or above the 12 o’clock position. It is also an arbour, but a smaller one used for regulating the speed of your clock. If you have a double-ended key, the small end fits that arbour. Some clocks will have the regulating arbour located under the centre cannon where the hands are attached.

The Difference Between the Terms Strike and Chime

A strike or a chime is simply the clock sounding the time. An antique or vintage “time and strike” clock indicates the hour by striking once for each hour or using a two-tone strike, such as a Normandy or “Bim-Bam” strike.

On the other hand, a chime is a musical tone, and a typical musical tone found on most clocks with three winding points is the Westminster chime. Some clocks provide more choices, such as the Schatz W3 bracket clock, which has 3 musical tones: St Michael’s, Whittington, and Westminster.

On older clocks, there may or may not be an additional strike on the half-hour. Older antique clocks from the mid-1800s, for example, typically do not strike on the half-hour to preserve the wind on the strike side.

Typically, striking clocks have two winding points, while chiming clocks have three.

Where Winding Points Are Located

On this spring-driven, Seth Thomas mantel clock (photo below), the left arbour, indicated by an arrow, winds the strike side, and the right arbour, the right arrow winds the time side. The smaller hole just below the centre cannon is for regulating the clock using a double-ended key.

Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows)
Winding arbours on an antique Seth Thomas mantel clock

On the Ingraham clock (photo below), there is only one set (or train of gears) that indicates it is a time-only clock, hence the single arbour or winding point. The barely visible, smaller hole in the loop end of the “2” on the number 12 is for regulating the clock.

Winding arbor on an Ingraham Nordic banjo clock
Winding arbour on an Ingraham Nordic banjo clock

If the striking sound is bothersome or disruptive to guests, you can simply wind the time side only—the clock will continue to run normally without engaging the strike mechanism.

However, to ensure even wear and proper maintenance, it is advisable to wind both sides of a striking clock.

The Running Time or Cycle of a Clock

Most clocks are designed to run for eight days. Some older clocks run 30 hours, and others run as long as 30 days on a wind. Still others, such as anniversary clocks, will run 400 days on a wind.

Double-ended Key

For eight-day clocks, winding once a week ensures the clock continues running smoothly. Establishing a routine, such as winding your clock(s) on the same day each week (a Saturday, for example), is a helpful habit. It’s also a good idea to make occasional adjustments to your clock, such as fine-tuning its speed to account for seasonal changes. You can find more details in an article I wrote about regulating your clock.

Clock Keys

It is common for a newly acquired clock to come without a key, but this is nothing to worry about. If it does have one, it is usually a replacement. Finding a clock with its original key is quite rare. The key that accompanies the clock is likely to fit, but if your clock has a speed adjustment arbour (marked F-S) on the dial, typically located near the top, it should have a double-ended key.

If your clock has a one-ended winding key and a speed adjustment arbour is present, the key is not original to the clock. Double-ended keys are necessary because the speed adjustment arbour is considerably smaller than the winding arbour.

Key Size and Type

All mechanical clocks require a winding key, like the one shown below. For those clocks that have winding cables, a winding crank is required. Winding cranks will be covered later in this article. The exceptions are alarm clocks and some carriage clocks, which have built-in winding keys. Keys come in various sizes, so it’s important to have the correct size for your clock’s arbour. The key should fit snugly without being too loose.

If your clock came without a key it can be purchased at any clock supply house, such as Perrin in Vancouver, Canada. Timesavers and Merritts are clock suppliers in the USA, where keys can be purchased.

Ingraham Huron winding key
Ingraham Huron winding key. Home-made but functional and over 120 years old

Over-winding a clock is a common myth.  A clock which “appears” to be over-wound seizes because of a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil

Winding Your Mechanical Clock

If the dial is covered by a glass door, open it to access the clock face. Insert the key into one of the winding arbors, and use your non-dominant hand to steady the case while winding. To protect the finish, it’s a good idea to wear a cotton glove on your non-dominant hand.

Next, turn the key clockwise. If it doesn’t turn clockwise, try turning it counterclockwise. Some clocks wind differently, so this is normal. Avoid forcing the key; apply minimal pressure and continue winding until you feel resistance. Once you encounter resistance, stop winding and do not force the key further.

Below is a clear example of a previous owner using excessive force to wind the movement in the wrong direction. The right spring barrel has become unhooked from the main wheel, which only happens when significant force is applied while winding in the opposite direction.

If you lose the key, simply purchase a replacement. Never use pliers or any other hand tools to wind a clock, as the arbours can be easily stripped.

Daniel Dakota movement
Chinese clock movement

The “clicking” sound heard while winding the arbour is the click engaging the ratchet on the mainspring. The ratchet’s purpose is to secure the mainspring in place with each turn of the key.

An 8-day clock usually requires about 14 half turns of the key as the arbour does one complete turn per day.

Mainspring rachet and click
Mainspring ratchet and click. 

Allow the key to gently return to its click. On the rare occasion that the click slips or breaks, resist the urge to release it quickly. Instead, let the key slowly unwind in your hand to prevent potential damage to the teeth, gears, and even your hand. Letting the key go free suddenly can cause collateral damage to other parts of the movement.

The myth of overwinding a clock is common, but a clock that “seems” overwound actually seizes due to a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil, which causes the coil to lock or stick. Regular servicing of a mechanical clock is an essential part of ownership and helps prevent future mainspring issues.

Clocks with Weights

Not all clocks use springs — for example, grandfather clocks and one-day ogee clocks are weight-driven. On these clocks, the weights must be raised to the top to begin the weekly time cycle. This can be done either by inserting a crank key into the winding arbor on the clock face or by manually pulling the chains to lift the weights.

For clocks with winding chains, gently pull down on the shorter side of the chain until the weight reaches the underside of the wooden seatboard, stopping at the weight stop bar. Repeat this process for the remaining two chains if it’s a chiming clock. Allow the chains to do the work — do not assist by lifting the weights at the same time. Pushing up on the weights could cause the chain to slip over the winding gear teeth or become unhooked. To protect the brass finish on the weight shells, wear cotton gloves while steadying the weights as they are pulled up.

For tall case clocks with cable drives, use a crank key to wind them by inserting the key into each winding hole on the clock face. Turn the key slowly until the weights are raised to the top.

All three weights on a chiming grandfather clock descend more or less together through the week.

On older tall case clocks with weights hidden behind an access door, open the door to observe the weights as they rise when you wind the clock. As the weights near the top, slow down and stop when you feel resistance.

Thirty-hour time and strike or one-day clocks are typically wound with a winding crank inserted in the dial face winding points once per day. Wind the weights to the top of the case at approximately the same time each day.

Final thoughts

In conclusion, take pride in your mechanical clock and the craftsmanship it represents. Wind it regularly, care for it properly, and have it serviced when necessary. Even if you prefer not to keep it running, cherish it as a remarkable piece of horological heritage.

For visual learners who prefer to see the process in action, I’ve created a helpful video demonstration showing exactly how to wind a clock. You can watch it here:

Related Articles

Regulating your mechanical clock – its easier than you think
Clock key sizes – do you have the right one?
Clock parts suppliers that should be on every clock repairer’s list
Schatz W3 – Installing an 8-rod chime block in a custom made clock case

Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time – a service is long overdue

Clock face Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock

Hallway clock
Hallway clock – Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time

I wrote about this clock in 2015. The Canadian Time clock was made by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock company of Kitchener, Ontario. The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company (1904–1941) is notable as the longest lasting Canadian-based clock manufacturer. Pequegnat clocks are sought after by Canadian collectors and often command high prices on online for-sale sites.

Former railway clock from a station in Pictou County, Nova Scotia
Former railway clock from a station in Pictou County, Nova Scotia (Canada)

Label on back board

The clock was made after 1917 in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada). Clocks made before 1917 had the word “Berlin” on the dial face. Kitchener was known as Berlin prior to and during the first World War. It was the town of Berlin from 1854 until 1912 and the City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916. Because the name Berlin was associated with the war against Germany the decision was made to change the name to Kitchener midway through the First World War. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario. Though it is impossible to determine the exact year this clock was made my guess is just prior to 1941 before the company closed it’s doors.

It is always disconcerting to open a clock up to discover punch marks on a movement

The clock was purchased in Sept 2013 and after 3 1/2 years it is overdue for servicing.

Movement showing punch marks as indicated by arrows
Movement showing punch marks (arrows)

It is always disconcerting to open a clock up to discover punch marks on a movement, specifically around the pivot holes as one would expect. I am one of those who believe that a punch should never be used on a clock movement. Most, including myself, would consider it a quick and easy shortcut that is not designed to extent the life of the clock in any appreciable manner. Because punching weakens the side wall of the pivot hole those two pivot holes in particular are prime examples of the need for bushings. In total the clock required 5 bushings. The second wheel pivot hole was worn the most. One back plate bushing was required for the escape wheel arbour.

Time only movement
Time only movement

Time only movement are relatively simple to work on and for the novice this is the first kind of movement you should tackle. Whenever working on a clock be sure to take as many photos as you can; you will need them if you get stuck re-assembling the movement. On this clock the 3rd and 4th wheels look exactly the same but in fact differ slightly in height. Photos taken at the right angles will easily confirm the difference.

Mainspring cleaned and inspected
Mainspring cleaned and inspected

A strange anomaly that I did not notice when I first bought the clock; additional screw holes

The mainspring is in excellent condition and might have been a replacement at some point in the clock’s life. I had some difficulty re-hooking the arbour to the spring and had to use pliers to bend it, but just a little.

I found one strange anomaly that I did not notice when I first bought the clock. There are additional screw holes in the back board leading me to believe that the clock might have had another type of Pequegnat movement which would mean that the current movement is a replacement. Possible reasons, a catastrophic failure of the original movement, a conversion from a time and strike movement to a time-only clock (requiring a new dial) – it is anyone’s guess. A mystery nonetheless.

Servicing this clock took less than a day. Testing takes a couple of weeks. With new bushings in place and an oiling this clock should run reliably for years to come.

I began keeping a detailed log of clock repairs noting, in particular, when the movement was last oiled so that I do not wait too long between inspection and oiling.

 

The schoolhouse clock that was never called the schoolhouse clock

Sessions Drop Octagon bob

Schoolhouse clock
What most people visualize as the Schoolhouse clock

My recent acquisition of another schoolhouse clock stimulated my curiosity and prompted me to do some research on the origin of the name. In this article I will describe my thoughts on how the schoolhouse clock came to be and my most recent Sessions wall clock purchase.

During my research I found it very interesting that little can be found regarding the history of the schoolhouse clock. I realize that many older readers growing up in the rural areas of Canada and elsewhere in North American have fond memories of the one-room schoolhouse with a large clock in either the front or the back of a classroom. I did not live that experience rather, when I was young and attending a large urban school the Simplex master / slave clock is the one I remember best.

The schoolhouse clock that I bought recently adds to my modest collection of three schoolhouse clocks. Given that I spent many years as an educator, it seems only fitting that I would have an interest in schoolhouse clocks. My schoolhouse clocks are all a similar style; short drop octagon, constructed of oak, brass dial bezel, bottom glazed access sash, 12 inch dial or 9 inches as in this case of this clock and the Waterbury pictured below. Although 9 inch clocks were used in schoolhouses they were also found in office or workplace settings.

They were not called a schoolhouse clock when they were made

Schoolhouse clocks were the standard design for early North American school houses because of their larger, easy to read dials. These distinctive clocks were hung in many schools rooms across Canada. The majority had simple but tough time-only movements and some even came with a calendar function. Occasionally they were ordered with time and strike movements but the cheapest and most popular versions were time-only. This type of clock had a very utilitarian look and function.

They were not always called schoolhouse clocks. None of the labels on my clocks have the word “schoolhouse” written on them and are either described as a”drop Octagon” in the case of this Sessions or have a specific model name. The term schoolhouse clock was not applied to them when they were made but came to be known as a particular style of clock found in school settings by later collectors. If a particular style was ordered by a school authority makers might have informally described them as clocks for schools or “school clocks”. In any event, the term has become a permanent part of the clock collector language.

Label on back of Sessions clock
Label on back of Sessions clock

With a swinging pendulum visible from a distance the clock can easily be seen running and the open-door bottom access sash allowed for restarting and adjusting the rate. In some clock collecting circles it is said that schoolhouse clocks are a derivative of the English drop dial fusee clock, an example of which can be seen here. Drop dials were produced in the late 18th through to the 19th century and closely resembled the schoolhouse clock. Unlike spring-driven schoolhouse clocks, fusee clocks have conical construction from which a chain or gut-line is pulled by the mainspring barrel allowing the power of the mainspring to be released evenly thus assuring better accuracy.

When I am in the process of buying a clock I always ask the seller this question. “How much do you know about this clock?”

When I am in the process of buying a clock I always ask the question. “How much do you know about this clock?”. I always ask this question because I am interested in a clock’s provenance and some of the stories are quite intriguing. The seller, a man in his late fifties, thought about it for a moment and said, “Well, I’ve had it since I was 14”. The clock came out of a decommissioned one-room schoolhouse in a small town called Springhill, Nova Scotia (Canada).  However, when I first saw the clock I said to him, “It looks like a nice office clock”. The seller quickly corrected me and said, “It’s a schoolhouse clock”. “It runs for a little bit and then stops, maybe you can do something with it”, he added.

It is a 1920’s vintage Sessions Drop Octagon wall clock. It has a solid medium dark oak case with original hands, ornate pressed brass pendulum bob, solid brass bezel, 80% of an intact label on backboard, tin dial pan and stenciled lower glazing on the sash. The paper dial is original but it is heavily “foxed”. The movement is 8-day time only. The dimensions of the clock are a 9″ diameter dial, 19″ high,  13 1/2″ wide by 4″ deep. It is in reasonably good condition given it’s age and for $20 it was quite a bargain. It is also intact; there are no missing or broken pieces.

sessions-drop-octogon time-only movement
Sessions time-only movement

I don’t think this clock has been run in quite some time.

I took it home, hung it on the wall and true to what the seller said it would run less than a minute and stop. I noticed a rubbing sound around the pendulum area as it was running. The pendulum bob was hitting against the inside front of the case. I took the movement out and observed a bent crutch rod, corrected it, put it on a test stand and it ran immediately. As expected the movement had quite a bit of grime and required attention but it ran for a day before I took it apart for a thorough servicing. I don’t think this clock has been run in quite some time.

I found it curious that the suspension spring was soldered where the spring hooks into the top block. It likely kept slipping off and solder was used to keep it in place. In any event, the spring cannot be taken out without first removing the solder!  The clock is in very good overall condition for it’s age and the movement was not as dirty as I first thought. The pivots are in decent condition for the most part and there is minimal wear overall. The movement was disassembled, cleaned and in the process I decided to install two bushings for added insurance, one on the escape wheel (front plate) and the other on an intermediate wheel (front plate). The movement was tested, put in beat and reinstalled back into it’s case.

I may replace the paper dial but I am going to see if I can live with it for the time being.

The dial has many brownish spots as you can see in the next photo. The clock had to have been in a moist environment for a long period for the paper to discolour. My two options are, one, leave as is or, two, replace with a paper dial. I may replace the paper dial but I am going to see if I can live with it for the time being. The brass bezel cleaned up well but the exposed tin surrounding the paper dial has blackish areas which I managed to reduce with CLR but could not totally eliminate. Of course, I later learned that CLR is really not appropriate for this purpose as it is an acid.

clock face showing rust staining
Dial showing rust staining

The case has years of grime which was easily remedied with Murphy’s soap and water. It cleaned up very nicely. Following the cleaning I gave the case a light coat of shellac to restore the luster of the oak. It looks good and it runs well.

My other drop octagon clocks are a Waterbury Arion,  an unknown Ansonia and an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II.

rs-bezel-and-glass-on-a-waterbury-_1
This Waterbury Arion is 19 inches long

RS April 16
Ansonia short drop octagon, model unknown, 12 inch dial

AP repaired_3
Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II, 12 inch dial

Time-only movements are the easiest to work on and a very good movement to learn on.

Sessions Drop Octagon
Repaired Sessions Drop Octagon clock

Time-only movements are the easiest to work on and a very good movement to learn on. If you are a beginner in clock collecting and repair clocks such as this are satisfying clocks to work on and presents few challenges. I am happy that I managed to bring this particular clock back to it’s former schoolhouse glory.

The term schoolhouse clock is a term that was not applied when they were made but came to be known as a particular style of clock found in school settings by later collectors. The schoolhouse clock is such an endearing name that when one thinks of a schoolhouse clock the memory of these specific styles of clock immediately comes to mind.

Servicing a Sessions American No. 2 mantel clock Part IV

Using a micrometer to check pivot

In this fourth and final entry of the series I will discuss bushing work, re-assembly and finally, testing and mounting the movement back into it’s case. Part I of this series can be found here, Part II here and Part III here,

Once the pivots are inspected, cleaned and polished it is now time to install any bushings required as result of careful inspection.

Bergeon Bushing Machine
Bergeon Bushing Machine

I acquired a Bergeon Bushing Machine in the spring of this year (2016). As I mentioned in Part III, some may prefer to bush by hand which I think is commendable but I have decided to go the bushing machine route. In the last few months I have been using and learning its many tools. It comes with a set of chucks and reamers some of which (right side rear) are a bit of a mystery to me. I cannot see using any of the large reamers any time soon though I assume that if I am working on tall-case clocks which have larger movements they would come in handy.

Chucks and reamers
Chucks and reamers

First is selecting the correct bushing using a micrometer to measure the diameter of the pivot. Then, I select the proper bushing from my Bergeon assortment kit.

Using a micrometer to check pivot
Using a micrometer to check pivot diameter on the escape wheel

The bushing I have selected for the escape wheel pivot (measured at 1.46 mm) has a depth of 2 mm, an outside diameter of 3.5 mm and a pivot hole of 1.5 mm.  In the next photo I am positioning it on top of the 3.47 mm. hole that I have just just “drilled” using one of the reamers. The outside diameter of the bushing is slightly larger allowing for a tight friction fit.

Punching the bushing home
Positioning the bushing on the Bergeon Bushing Machine

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Bushing installed

Once I have selected the correct bushing I test it on the pivot for fit and then I position it over the pivot hole and use a small hammer with it’s nylon end to tap the top of the bushing machine centre shaft lightly until the bushing is properly seated and level with the plate ensuring that the oil sink faces the outside of the plate.

New bushing installed
New bushing installed with oil sink on the outside of the plate

To check proper fitment of the motion works bushings/pivots, I assemble all the wheels on that side (both plates), check for a smooth action and determine if any additional reaming/smoothing is required. I do the same for the strike side.

Once all the bushing work is completed and I am satisfied that each bushing fits correctly and operates smoothly, I re-assemble the mainsprings, wheels and levers and then re-attach the back plate using the five plate screws. We each have our own method of re-attaching the back plate but I work from the bottom up, that is, from the mainsprings. Once I have the mainsprings in place I immediately install the bottom 2 plate screws (loosely) and then work from the motion works side to the strike side using a pivot locator tool, if necessary, to coax the pivots into their respective holes.

Trains and levers ready for the front plate
Trains and levers ready for the front plate

Positioning the various levers can be a bit frustrating because those that have helper springs seem to slip out of their pivot holes easily as you are putting the plates together. Perseverance is certainly the key.

The one difficulty I had was adjusting the synchronization of the count and drop levers, that is, getting the drop lever to sit in the cam while I adjusted the locking lever position. The clock must be completely assembled at this point and once together loosen or take off the nearest pillar nut and pry the plates apart to take out both the flywheel and the locking wheel. Once out, the locking wheel can be re-positioned by moving the pin on the wheel so it rests on the locking lever. Once this is completed, re-install the flywheel. This is basically a trial and error process and I never seem to get it right the first time.

My only error in the first go-around was not restraining the strike mainspring during this procedure. While spinning wildly the strike mainspring flattened the protrusions off the cam that allows the hammer strike. Momentary panic! Once bent back into shape everything was fine. Naturally, I secured the mainspring for my second successful attempt.

My reference for these adjustments is Steven Conover’s Striking Clock Repair Guide which is an invaluable guide to striking American clocks.

Once the parts are re-assembled it is on to the final testing phase which takes days (and weeks, perhaps) as the clock is being carefully regulated. The following video shows the movement on a test stand (in this case, Gene’s Test Movement Stand). The sound of the pallet on the escape wheel is very quiet; you are hearing other clocks in this room. The clock is in beat and in the video you can see the movement of the escape wheel from various perspectives.

Sessions American No. 2
The movement is returned to it’s case

Once testing and regulating is completed and I am satisfied the clock will run reliably for 8 days I return it to it’s case. There are only 4 mounting screws. You may have to re-position the coil gong by loosening the adjustment nut on bottom of case to get that satisfying strike sound.

This attractive little Sessions American No. 2 time and strike mantel clock has now been serviced. It required 5 bushings and should run reliably for the next 3-5 years.

Servicing a Sessions American No. 2 mantel clock, Part I

Sessions American No. 2
Sessions American No. 2

I am going to take you, the reader, through the process I follow when servicing a clock. There will be several posts in this series. I am not a trained expert in clock repair, nor do I do this for profit and have learned most of what I know through trial and error, careful study and of course, listening to the advice of many experts and newfound friends on the forum site at NAWCC.

If you into clock collecting you’ve probably seen one of these mantel clocks at one time or another in your travels. Literally thousands were made. This attractive little mission styled oak-cased time and strike mantel clock is a Sessions “American No. 2” dating from 1921 according to Trans Sessions book, page 121.

When I opened the back access panel to service the movement I discovered an inscription which reads, “Jim A. Kennedy, Nov 3/63, a clear, cold nite”. One can only imagine that on that particular clear, cold night, Jim A. Kennedy was doing some work on this lovely clock. It does not say where Jim lived but Jim, wherever you are and if you are still with us, your clock lives on.

Although this clock has been running steadily since I acquired it about two years ago, the time is right to put it on the workbench. American made clocks like this tend to run on and on despite requiring much needed bushing work and this one is no exception, but now it needs some loving.

I took the movement out of it’s case and examined it closely. Fortunately it has not been botched by poor repairs over the years that one sees from time to time. Things looked good, no surprises. Although no bushings have been installed on the top (back) plate there were five bushings that were installed on the bottom (front) plate at some point in this clock’s life, perhaps on that cold, clear evening in November. My initial inspection reveals that there is wear in some pivot holes and that six bushings must be installed on the back plate and of the five previously installed bushings on the front plate, two need to be replaced and at least one new bushing is required on the pallet arbor.

Although the movement appears clean at first glance it really is very dirty. This is an example of the sludge (indicated by the arrow) that has built up in this particular pivot over the years. There are other such examples on this movement.

top plate showing a build-up of dirt around a pivot hole
Top plate showing a build-up of dirt around a pivot hole

Once I tear it down completely I will be able to determine the condition of the pivots and other moving parts. I intend to clean the entire clock and clean/oil the springs as well as replace/install the aforementioned bushings. My first impression is that the mainsprings are in good condition. The clock easily ran eight days on a wind. The clicks are another matter. At least one looks like it needs replacement. Sessions clocks are notorious for their bad clicks but to put things in perspective the clicks have been in this clock likely since it was made (or perhaps 1961).

Time and strike movement with single hammer strike on a coiled gong
Time and strike movement with single hammer strike on a coiled gong

The escape wheel teeth may need to be filed but I will determine if filing is required once I inspect it more thoroughly.

escape wheel tooth tips
Escape wheel tooth tips

Safety first. The first task other than taking the suspension spring/rod/bob off the movement is to secure the mainsprings using mainspring clamps that are available at any clock supply store. Mainsprings can be very dangerous and it is important to contain their power when working on a clock. I always wear eye protection and leather work gloves before I let the mainsprings down with a let down key. Once you’ve released the clock from the ratchet by moving the retaining spring out of the way, the power of the spring is transferred to the let down key which allows one to gently release it until it is contained in the C-clamp. After the springs are restrained you can safely disassemble the clock.

Let down key and C-clamp
Let down key and C-clamp

.

Movement on stands
Movement on stands

The clock is now ready to be disassembled. Tune into Part II where I will post photos of the complete disassembly stage and report on what further work needs to be done.

Smiths Enfield Mantel Clock

Restoring and repairing antique clocks is a rewarding and sometimes challenging journey, and my latest project has been no exception. I recently acquired a time-and-strike mantel clock from the Enfield Clock Company, a British manufacturer known for its utilitarian designs, especially post-war.

Smiths Enfield time and strike mantel clock

In this article, I will share my experiences as I continue to restore this time-and-strike mantel clock, detailing the steps I’ve taken so far, the challenges I’ve faced, and what I’ve learned along the way.

The Enfield Clock Co. & Association with Smiths

The Enfield Clock Company’s history is as intriguing as the clocks they produced. Established in 1929, Enfield became known for its mass-produced timepieces, manufactured using modern assembly line techniques inspired by American factory systems.

By the early 1930s, Enfield was manufacturing clock movements that were sold wholesale, eventually leading to the formation of the Smiths Enfield brand after the company was sold to Smiths Industries in 1933. The clocks, particularly those produced in the 1950s, reflected the utilitarian, post-war aesthetic of the time.

Initial Observations

When I first examined the clock, I could tell that it had been worked on by someone with a tinkerer’s touch, rather than a skilled clockmaker. Although its striking mechanism sounded great and the clock was visually appealing, I knew it required a thorough service to restore its functionality.

This clock occasionally stopped for no apparent reason and was difficult to keep in beat, prompting me to learn more about clock repair. The movement was relatively simple, with two trains, so I set out to clean and service it. As I worked through the process, I encountered some challenges, including an unhooked mainspring and worn pivot holes, but I made progress nonetheless. Though I had to delay some repairs due to my limited experience, I gained valuable insights into the inner workings of this timepiece and look forward to continuing the restoration.

Two pivot holes on the back plate were a little worn but not enough to cause any issues at this time. However, since I know very little about bushing work at this point I think it wise to put off repairs until I know how to do the work. A bushing machine is on the horizon but limited funds do not permit me to tackle those more in-depth repairs just yet. Anyway, back to the movement.

Movement showing hammer, and pendulum leader and bob

While reassembling the strike side the mainspring unhooked. I am not sure why. I was prepared to disassemble the movement to reattach the mainspring but a little wiggling corrected the problem.  Once the parts were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner and the parts were dried, the movement was assembled and oiled. There are two adjusting two screws on either side of the verge that determine the correct height between the pallets and the escape wheel. Through trial and error, I was able to get a good pendulum swing and a steady beat.

Tricky clip

I decided not to re-attach the 2 clips just yet since it would not take much to break them. Only after the clock has been running reliably and striking correctly will I reattach the clips.

Two ratchets

Not a good design in my view and I wonder if these clocks were ever meant to be worked on after they left the factory.

In the next article, I will share my experiences as I continue to restore this time-and-strike mantel clock, detailing additional steps I’ve taken so, the challenges I’ve faced with this project, and what I’ve learned along the way.

Blackforest Shelf Clock Progress

Plate clock movement

I have dis-assembled this clock twice. After the first dis-assembly I cleaned and oiled it, found everything to be in order but once I assembled it, bench-tested it to find everything seemingly correct and set the beat  it would not run more that 5 to 10 minutes at a time. When it stopped it seemed to catch on the escape wheel.

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Shown with back plate off

It is now stripped down again. No need to have as through a cleaning as the first go-around but now is the time to investigate other factors. It is a pretty simple clock as the photo shows.

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Escape wheel showing worn teeth

What I see right away is the escape wheel teeth and how some are hooked or misshapened. My temptation is to file it down but others are suggesting that I use pliers to press the hooks back into shape. I have’t decided what to do just yet.

Others have suggested that I put more weight on the pendulum which I am reluctant to do since this clock was likely designed to run on a light bob.

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The pendulum showing the twist adjustment for speed regulation

Now back to further investigation.

Late note: I finally got this clock to work after taking it apart twice. The second time I concentrated on the pivots discovering the at least 2 had enough rust that them that they may have slowed the clock down. I also took a burr off the escape wheel but in the process damaged the escape wheel a little, so that while the clock runs there is a little clunking sound once with each rotation, but it works and keeps time! Live and learn.

Mauthe Mantel Clock – called a buffet clock by the marketing folks at Mauthe

Mauthe mantel clocks are widely available in various shapes and sizes, often appearing on online marketplaces, at garage sales, flea markets, and in antique shops. However, not all are well-preserved, with many showing signs of age and neglect. This particular round-top mantel clock stands out for its excellent condition, especially considering its age.

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Mauthe buffet clock

While this is commonly called a mantel or shelf clock, in Mauthe marketing parlance it is referred to it as a “buffet clock”. In the mid-20th century, clocks of this style were often designed to sit on buffets, sideboards, or credenzas in dining rooms. This placement allowed the clock to serve both a decorative and practical purpose that complemented the room’s furnishings. The term “buffet clock” reflects its association with this specific setting, distinguishing it from mantel or shelf clocks, which were typically placed in living areas or on fireplaces.

This 3-train Westminster chime pendulum clock features a 5-rod gong block and plays a quarter-hour musical tone. I discovered it at an antique shop in Great Village, Nova Scotia (Canada) some time ago. The movement is unmarked, lacking a trademark, but bears the number 50089 on the bottom right of the rear plate. There is no doubt that the movement is original to the case.

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Back of the clock showing the 3-train movement
RS Mauthe mantle clock (28)
Mauthe clock and Stromberg Carlson console radio

Mauthe – The Company

Mauthe clocks were produced in Germany by a company with a long and distinguished history, manufacturing thousands of wall, mantel, office, and hall clocks. Founded in 1844 by Friedrich Mauthe and his wife, Marie, in Schwenningen, Germany, the company initially focused on producing watch parts. By the late 1860s, Mauthe began making its own wall clocks and movements, some produced through the “Gewerblern” method, a form of cottage industry, while others were made in a more industrial, factory-based approach.

In 1876, the Mauthe sons, Christian and James, took over the business. A decade later, in 1886, Mauthe started manufacturing its own spring mechanisms.

By around 1900, Mauthe offered a range of clocks, including alarm clocks, pendulum wall clocks, grandfather clocks, office clocks, and “Buffet Uhren” (Buffet clocks). At this time, the company employed around 1,100 people. The third generation of the Mauthe family took control in 1904, with Eugene Schreiber, Christian Mauthe’s son, Dr. Fritz Mauthe, Jacob Mauthe’s son, and Alfred Mauthe, Jacob’s other son, joining the leadership.

In 1925, Mauthe introduced a new trademark featuring an eagle with outstretched wings, clutching a three-part round plate marked with the letters F, M, and S. By 1930, the company was producing approximately 45,000 clocks per week, with over 2,000 employees. Around 60% of their production was for export, with England being the primary market.

In the mid-1930s, Mauthe began manufacturing wristwatches, some of which were supplied to the German Army (Wehrmacht). After a brief pause during the war years, Mauthe resumed production in 1946, focusing on wristwatches. The company continued operations through the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s, but ultimately declared bankruptcy and closed in 1976.

RS Mauthe mantle clock (11)
Clock face showing three arbour points

This clock runs a complete 8-day cycle and produces a very pleasant sound. The case features a simple yet attractive design, is in excellent condition, and the movement is clean, having been recently serviced.

This Mauthe buffet clock is a fine example of the company’s craftsmanship, combining reliable timekeeping with a pleasing chime. Its well-preserved condition and recent servicing make it a standout piece for any clock collector.

A Barrel of Fun – Dugena mantel clock issues

Mainspring barrel

I am continuing work on my Dugena mantel clock with a Hermle movement. Everything seemed to go well after re-assembly but the strike barrel.

A serious problem or simple fix? The latter, thankfully. Something was definitely amiss since the winding arbor was not engaging on the mainspring. The spring was either broken or had not engaged the winding arbor sleeve.

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Mainspring barrel

I had no choice but to open up the barrel but it was not much fun getting the cap off. Some suggestions I received on a clock forum site were to bang the arbor with a steel hammer or a rubber hammer and it would pop neatly into my hand. This did not work. Finally someone suggested that if it was really stubborn to find a piece of hardwood, hold the barrel in a gloved hand and bang it with some amount of force on the hardwood. It worked!

Once I got the thing apart I inspected the spring and arbour for possible damage. I initially thought the spring catch (see photo with black arrow) was broken but a member of NAWCC (National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors) assured me that this was quite normal. I re-positioned the catch onto the spring, tested it and snapped the cap back on.

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Strike mainspring barrel on the left

The barrel can be easily slid back into the clock without taking the movement apart. Using the clock key I gave it a few turns, tested the action of the strike side and everything seemed to be working.

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Arbor sleeve spring catch

Now for bench testing. I put a make-shift hour hand for the clock to see if it marked the hours properly. Testing for a week or so will reveal any issues and allows for finer adjustments before I install the movement back into its case. Everything looks good at this point.

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Mainspring with barrel cap off

The original problem was that the clock was running too fast and no amount of adjusting would slow it down. I am hoping now that after a good cleaning it will run as it should.

Dugena Mantel Clock Progress

Dugena clock

 

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Dugena mantel clock

If you are following the progress on my Dugena mantel clock project it seems to be going fairly well though there have been some minor issues.

I had no trouble taking the movement apart and cleaning all the parts to the best of my ability. Everything seemed to be in good order with minimal wear. My initial method months ago of dunking the assembled clock in a solution clearly did not work. The clock did not run at all after that procedure. So, I put the clock aside to decide what to do. Dis-assembly is the only way to do the job correctly as I am learning. After a thorough cleaning comes re-assembly.

I have learned from taking apart movements that getting it back together means that once the back plate is on it is better to work from the bottom up, by getting the barrels in place, the main wheel and then working up to the top of the clock. Once I have the barrels in place I put on the lower nuts. I am not sure if that is the correct procedure but it works for me. I then use a pair of tweeters to carefully move the pivots in their proper place.

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The hammer assemblies are on the right side

The hardest part was re-aligning the hammer assemblies since the hammer wires are located outside the back plate. You can see this in the photo. I later learned that even when the clock is fully assembled the barrels will come out by simply removing the winding arbors and sliding them out. It’s all good learning!

It took a lot of fiddling to position the hammer assembly properly. With time (no pun intended) it all came together. Once the back plate was on securely next came the balance wheel escarpment and aligning the fork correctly which I think I did. I then put the clock in beat, oiled it and started it up. It did not run. Whoops, it needs power and had to be wound. I immediately noticed that the time barrel spring would not wind at all. I am guessing that the spring had, at some point become un-clipped from the barrel. I say un-clipped because I did not hear a broken spring sound. I switched barrels (#8S spring barrel) since they are the same for both time and strike. Once I got the barrels switched I gave the spring a few turns with the key, gave the balance wheel a little shove and the clock has been running for 24 hours as of this writing.

Does it keep time, I have no idea at this point? I suspect it does with a little adjustment. As for the strike side, if I can re-attach the mainspring within the barrel I am on my way to re-installing the movement back into it’s case. I know the strike side is working properly because when I had the good spring on that side for a brief period the strike assembly seemed to be working as it should.

Should I try to fix the mainspring or buy a new (or NOS) barrel and mainspring? I am not keen on fixing a mainspring because of potential injury but if I can scour around and get a used 8S barrel and mainspring for a reasonable price that would be the better option in my view.

As I said, it’s all good learning!

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