A tale of two mantel clocks – German vs American engineering

Assessing the quality of mantel clocks, whether American or German, involves considering various factors such as craftsmanship, materials used, design, and overall reliability. Both American and German manufacturers have a rich history in clockmaking, and each has its own unique characteristics.

In my collection, I’ve assembled a diverse array of clocks, featuring both American and European examples. Drawing upon my experiences, I can confidently say that when it comes to overall quality, I find myself favouring a typical German clock over its American counterpart.

American mantel clocks are known for their diversity in design and style. Manufacturers like Seth Thomas, Ansonia, Waterbury, Sessions, and others have produced a wide range of mantel clocks with different aesthetic influences. The craftsmanship and attention to detail in many American mantel clocks are often praised. Some American manufacturers have a tradition of incorporating high-quality materials, such as solid wood and detailed finishes.

However, the American mantel clock market has seen fluctuations in quality over time. Some collectors and enthusiasts may argue that the mid-20th century saw a decline in craftsmanship as manufacturers faced increased competition and economic pressures.

I see this clearly in American mechanical clocks made in the 1920s and 1930s. There is a definite step downwards in quality and the goal of production seems to have been to maximize profits.

Germany has a long-standing reputation for precision engineering and quality craftsmanship, and this extends to its clockmaking industry. German mantel clocks, especially those produced by renowned manufacturers like Mauthe, Junghans, HAC, Kienzle, Gustav Becker, and others are often associated with precision movements and reliable timekeepers.

German mantel clocks are also known for their mechanical excellence and commitment to traditional clockmaking techniques. Many German clocks feature intricately designed cases and precise movements, often with a focus on accuracy and durability.

German clock manufacturers maintained their commitment to producing high-quality clocks well into the 1920s and 1930s. Instead of compromising on materials or craftsmanship, they opted to charge a premium for their clocks, ensuring that the level of quality remained consistently high.

A comparison

Let’s compare a common German mantel clock with its American counterpart. Both are in my collection.

The Junghans mantel clock features a design reminiscent of the popular bracket-style clocks that were fashionable several years before its production around 1915. It has a mahogany veneered case, a brass case handle, brass features below the dial, a solid brass dial bezel with beveled glass, and elegant brass feet. Its sturdy time and strike movement, known for its reliability during that era, adds to the clock’s appeal as a dependable clock for the home.

_{Seth Thomas time and strike with type 89 movement}

The Seth Thomas clock, manufactured in the United States, showcases a case of inferior quality, a basic brass bezel, and a simulated wood veneer that imitates the appearance of exotic wood. Cost-saving to maximize profit was the ultimate priority during the period of manufacture of this clock from the early 1930s.

Despite this, the clock is equipped with the reliable and durable type 89 movement, which has proven to be bulletproof and dependable over time.

Servicing a German vs an American movement

There are pros and cons to servicing either type of movement. German time and strike movements can be a bit more intricate and finicky, especially when setting up the strike side, as lining up the parts correctly is crucial. Dealing with smaller pivots also increases the risk of damage, bending, or breaking.

Conversely, with American time and strike movements, the larger pivots minimize breakage and it requires brute strength to inflict any damage when manipulating the parts.

However crude an American movement might appear in a side-by-side comparison with a German movement, there is a notable advantage to the former. An American movement (generally speaking) can endure wear much better than a German movement, and it can continue to run effectively even when significantly worn.

That said, when both are set up correctly and any wear is mitigated both American and German movements function reliably for years.

In Summary

Both American and German mantel clocks can offer high-quality options, but individual preferences may vary based on factors like design preferences and specific features.

Collectors and enthusiasts often appreciate the historical context and craftsmanship associated with clocks from both regions.

Obviously, your source of clocks depends on where you live in the world as Canadian and American clocks are widely available to those living in North America whereas the opposite is true for European and Australian residents, for example.

One last thing to note is that precision regulators from both countries are of equal quality. Whether American or German, both exhibit equal precision and performance. They both adhere to the highest standards and can be trusted for accurate timekeeping. It’s worth noting, however, that achieving such precision comes with a correspondingly high price.

These viewpoints represent my personal opinions, and I encourage readers to delve into researching specific models and manufacturers. Making an informed decision should be based on individual preferences and priorities.

February 9, 2024

Wrapping up the servicing of a Seth Thomas type 89 movement

Seth Thomas is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history, and they produced a variety of clock movements over the years. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas between 1900 and 1938.

Seth Thomas mantel clock from the 1930s — _{Seth Thomas mantel or shelf clock}

The mantel clock in question features the Type 89 movement. Acquired in the summer of 2023, this clock boasts a simple and straightforward design.

In the first part of this two-part series, I discussed the disappointments I encountered with the clock’s case.

Seth Thomas type 89 movement showing dirt and rust — _{Seth Thomas type 89 movement, dirty and rusty}

The focus then shifted to the disassembly process and my examination of the widely-used Seth Thomas Type 89 clock movement.

My observations highlighted a replaced mainspring on the strike side, the necessity for bushing work, and indications of rust, all of which posed challenges that I committed to addressing in subsequent stages such as cleaning, bushing, oiling, and reassembly.

The focus of this blog post is the completion of servicing of this type 89 clock movement.

The front plate of a type 89 Seth Thomas movement — _{Front of the type 89 movement} _{before disassembly}

Cleaning of the mainsprings

There is always the temptation to do nothing with the mainsprings if they look acceptable. However, cleaning the mainsprings is an essential part of clock servicing. Uncoiling and wiping the dirt and grime from the mainsprings with a cloth is the preferred method, but cleaning them with an ultrasonic cleaner is also an option.

In Part I, I cleaned the mainsprings in my ultrasonic cleaner and provided a rationale for this decision. Before I go any further, I’d like to emphasize a crucial point regarding the cleaning of mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner. This practice is not recommended and should only be considered as a last resort.

While cleaning mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner has little impact on the surfaces or mechanism of the cleaner itself the oil removed from the mainsprings generates a black liquid that contaminates the cleaning solution, rendering it ineffective for future use.

_{Seth Thomas type 89 mainsprings, note the replacement spring on the right}

Clamps have been applied to secure the mainsprings after oiling, and they’ve been set aside. Now, we move on to the next step: the bushing phase.

The back plate is removed on a type 89 Seth Thomas movement — _{Backplate removed}

Bushing the movement

As the movement is fully disassembled this is the stage where bushing work can be done.
I commend individuals who choose to bush by hand, but personally, It is not for me.

Various systems exist for bushing, with KWM and Bergeon being the two most widely adopted. It’s worth noting that neither system is inherently superior to the other, as preferences tend to vary among enthusiasts. When referring to a “system,” it’s important to understand that the bushings from one system are not interchangeable with those from the other.

That said I use the Bergeon system.

Bergeon 6200 Bushing Machine — _{Bergeon Bushing Machine}

Before bushing, I identify all the locations requiring attention and mark them with a Sharpie. There is no permanent mark as rubbing alcohol will easily remove all traces of ink.

I have an excellent assortment of bushings and have all the required ones for this project.

An assortment of Bergeon bushings, assortment #5488 — _{An assortment of Bergeon bushings, #5488}

Using cutters each hole is drilled out and chamfered, that is, removing the sharp edges to allow the pushings to be pressed in smoothly. As I insert each new bushing I test the fit by assembling the wheels to check how freely they move. This allows me to make small adjustments in the event the pivot is too tight in the bushing hole.

Cutting into the bushing hole with Bergeon bushing machine — _{Cutting into a brass plate}

Based on my initial assessment, the bushings for both the front and back plates of the escape wheel were the most worn. The next new bushing is the fourth wheel front plate, the one adjacent to the escape wheel. After three bushings everything looks good and the wear further down the train does not look too bad. A fourth bushing for the fourth wheel should be enough.

A cutting broach is used to enlarge any holes that are a tight fit for a pivot followed by a smoothing broach. To prepare for the wheels to go back in place all bushing holes are cleaned with pegs/toothpicks.

Test fitting the time-side wheels during the bushing process, type 89 Seth Thomas movement — _{Test fitting the time-side wheels during the bushing process}

In the photo above, the plates and gears look shinier after a session with the ultrasonic cleaner. However, it’s important to note that the main goal in clock repair isn’t to make everything as shiny as possible. The focus is on reducing wear and tear. Some dirt and grime on the plates might not come off completely during the cleaning process in every case and it is not something the clock repairer should be overly concerned with.

Back to bushing. There is a little bit of play on the second and third wheels but it is tolerable so, I think I will stop at this point.

Punching a 3.5 mm Bergeon bushing into a clock plate — _{Punching a bushing into the plate}

Were I in the clock repair business I would bush everything on the time train, or the entire movement for that matter, but since I usually inspect movements in my collection every 2-3 years I can address any additional wear at that time.

On to the strike train. In the first article, I mentioned that there was not much wear on the strike side which might be attributable to that side not being wound as often. The only hole that must be addressed is the cam wheel bushing on the front plate. Why this bushing hole is worn much worse than the others is a bit of a mystery.

Okay, all the work is done for a total of five new Bergeon bushings. The holes have been pegged, and the movement is now ready to be reassembled.

The one hiccup encountered during the bushing process was the malfunction of my caliper tool. Fortunately, this isn’t a major problem, as all the Bergeon bushings are uniform at 3.5mm outside diameter, with inside diameters of either 1.4mm or 1.5mm so I knew what size to grab first.

Reassembly

When dealing with American 8-day time and strike movements, there are challenges in configuring the strike mechanism accurately. Occasionally, luck is on my side, and I manage to place the paddle in the deep slot, position the lever in the lowest part of the cam wheel, and align the warning wheel just right on the first attempt.

A useful tip. If the lever is in the lower part of the cam wheel and the paddle is not in the deep slot, simply move the toothed count wheel sideways so that it does not engage the pinon and reposition the wheel till the paddle finds the deep slot.

No luck setting up the strike this time! If the strike train does not lock correctly it will simply keep on running and you will know that soon enough.

The plates can be partially pried open without the risk of all the wheels and levers springing out. Repositioning the warning wheel involves moving the fly aside, carefully extracting the 4th wheel from its pivot hole, and rotating it a quarter turn or so to ensure the warning pin aligns with the stop lever.

_{Seth Thomas movement on the test stand}

A minor issue with the hammer lever surfaced as it was not aligning correctly with the strike pins on the cam wheel. No disassembly of the movement is required for this adjustment. Simply loosen the bottom two nuts by the mainsprings, and the strike hammer can be removed to straighten it. After having been bent multiple times over the years, straightening it out resolved the issue.

Next, the movement is oiled with Keystone clock pivot oil and mounted on a test stand. After a week it is running and striking as it should.

And lastly, my new caliper arrived just as I was concluding the servicing on this clock.

Addendum

To properly configure the strike side, pay attention to the positioning of the levers as pointed out by the arrows.

In the above photo, the lower arrow shows the paddle in the deep slot, and the upper arrow shows the drop lever in the indent of the cam.

The upper arrow shows the position of the stop pin on the stop wheel. The lower arrow shows the locking lever.

February 2, 2024

Seth Thomas type 89 movement servicing

I acquired this mantel clock during the summer of 2023. From a distance, it looked very good but upon closer inspection what I thought was a rosewood veneer finish was in fact, a thin wrapper, so a bit of a disappointment.

Seth Thomas mantel clock — _{The simple lines of this clock was the main attraction}

However, the focus of this blog post is not the clock’s case but the ubiquitous type 89 clock movement found within that made its way into thousands of Seth Thomas clocks.

Disassembly

The first step is to remove the hour and minute hands. Working from the back, four case screws release the movement from its case. Things will go along more smoothly if the coiled gong is removed as well.

Looking at the back plate, the suspension spring and rod must be removed first. Then comes the regulating adjustments screw and rod which consists of releasing 3 machine screws and then pulling out the spline gear which is operated through the clock face by the small end of a double-ended winding key. Once that hardware is removed it is on to the removal of the back plate.

A view from the back, Seth Thomas type 89 movement — _A _{view of the movement}

There are 4 nuts (plus the pendulum rod retainer screw) to be removed, however, it is advisable to unhook the helper spring at the top and the hammer spring at the bottom before lifting up the plate. This will prevent the wheels from being dislodged as the back plate is removed.

If the wheels spring out, reassembling the wheels becomes a challenging task of guesswork to determine their correct locations, especially for beginners.

Brass helper spring hooked around a post of a type 89 movement — _{Brass helper spring hooked around a post}

As each part is removed place them in a hobby tray or receptacle so that nothing will be lost or misplaced. No matter what the skill level, separating the time side gears from the strike side is always a good practice.

Findings

Upon lifting the back plate, my initial observation was the replacement of the mainspring on the strike side at some point in the clock’s life.

Whenever I encounter a replaced mainspring, my immediate focus shifts to inspecting potential damage to the main wheel teeth and the lantern pinions in the second and third wheels. This is because the force of a break occasionally causes secondary damage along the gear train. This is often referred to as collateral damage. Fortunately, the components up the train in this movement are undamaged.

Backplate removed on the type 89 movement — _{Backplate removed}

An initial inspection of wear indicates a need for five new bushings on the time side, while only one is necessary on the strike side. Further examination may reveal more once a more detailed assessment is conducted.

Interestingly, the strike side shows less wear, indicating that it was seldom wound. My assumption is that after the repair of the mainspring, the owner decided it wasn’t worth the risk of another mainspring break and chose not to wind it frequently or at all.

More concerning is evidence of rust on the movement posts, some pivots, and the lantern pinions. The clock was obviously stored in a humid location for a period.

Two mainsprings for the type 89 movement — _Mainsprings

All parts were cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner and thoroughly dried.

Despite my best efforts, I could not separate the main wheels from the mainsprings. I opted to place both the wheel and mainspring in the ultrasonic cleaner. This is not a typical practice for me as it dirties the cleaning solution and limits resue, but I intend to dispose of the cleaning solution after this servicing.

From control for the L&R ultrasonic cleaner — _{Ultrasonic cleaner}

That’s all for now

Despite encountering disappointment in the clock’s case, the disassembly and findings of the ubiquitous Seth Thomas Type 89 clock movement revealed a replaced mainspring on the strike side, a need for bushing work, and evidence of rust, presenting challenges that will be addressed in the upcoming stages of cleaning, bushing work, oiling, and reassembly.

I will conclude here and save the remaining details of the servicing for a subsequent post.

January 30, 2024

Disaster strikes a Junghans movement

My apologies for the wordplay in the title. I recently encountered an issue with the striking mechanism in a German clock I’m currently repairing, and in this article, I would like to describe my experience with the repair.

I have to admit it is a frustrating problem that could have been a disaster but I came up with a solution that should work.

Junghans B11 movement on the test stand — _{Junghans movement on the test stand}

The other day I was investigating why the strike side of a Junghans time and strike movement was not functioning correctly and discovered a portion of a small stamped metal part on the exterior of the movement had bent.

I had simply pried too hard when unbending a part of the stamped metal piece and it snapped off, which surprised me. It was a very small piece and when it flew off it was hidden in the clutter of my work area but I was successful in retrieving it. Without that small piece, I was not certain I could make the repair.

Junghans movement in the clock case — _{The movement in the case}

Perhaps I do not have the correct name for the part that bent but let’s call it the strike actuator. The strike actuator when activated lifts a lever to begin the strike process. The activator is attached to the front plate with a small machine screw and is free to move.

On the center arbor is a star cam. The 2 points on the star cam rotate every 30 minutes until a star point pushes the strike actuator to begin the strike sequence. A protruding piece of metal, the contact piece for the star point on the actuator, is the part that broke as I was attempting to unbend it.

Side view of the Junghans time and strike movement — _{Junghans movement side view}

Needless to say, I was crestfallen. What do I do now!

There are essentially three ways of addressing a situation like this.

If I had enough spare parts, the straightforward fix would be to replace the problematic part by taking it from a donor movement. However, whereas I have an ample supply of spare American movements for American clock repairs, unfortunately, I lack spare German movements for parts.

To my knowledge, there is no established source for Junghans clock parts. While clock parts suppliers offer various components for common repairs like escapements and mainsprings, smaller parts like this are typically not readily available in their inventory.

The second solution is to simply have a nonfunctioning strike side but a clock that at the very least, tells the time.

The third alternative involves undertaking a repair, as there appears to be a potential for some sort of restoration. So, I chose to fix it. Although I cannot assure the repair’s absolute success, my intention is to conduct thorough testing to assess its effectiveness.

The Repair

To repair the actuator there is no need to disassemble the movement. One small slotted screw holds it in place. Release the screw and it is ready to be worked on.

To repair the actuator, I used a high-temperature butane torch along with a solder containing a significant amount of silver. It comes in spools and looks much like aluminum wire.

Silver solder is known for its higher melting point compared to other solder types, ensuring greater durability and reducing the risk of weld cracking.

Using hobby alligator clamps, I securely held together the broken piece and the actuator, eliminating the need to handle the pieces manually. After securing them, I dabbed flux in the weld area and then applied heat until the metal changed color and then proceeded to apply the solder.

The stamped metal part (in black) is the actuator and here you can see the successful repair — _{The stamped metal black part is the actuator} _{and here you can see the successful repair}

The challenging part involved aligning the fractured piece onto the actuator. I had to carefully maneuver the clamps to ensure they were positioned correctly for the welding process. The actual soldering was the easy part and literally took seconds.

After a few minutes, I reattached the actuator. I then wound both the strike and time side of the movement and observed the action of the actuator as it went through the strike sequence. It worked!

I plan to keep the movement on the test stand for a couple of weeks or more but after running it for four days the weld has held.

Final thoughts

Tackling the repair of the actuator in this Junghans clock posed its challenges, particularly in aligning and securing the broken piece onto the actuator. Importantly, in any clock servicing, mistakes may occur, but it’s crucial to remember that there are ways to address and rectify many errors. Whether through additional adjustments, alternative techniques, or seeking guidance, the learning process in clock repair involves both successes and challenges.

In the end, the commitment to problem-solving enhances one’s skills, making each repair experience a valuable lesson in the pursuit of clock repair.

January 23, 2024

The awkward task of telling someone the true value of a Common Clock

People often ask me about the value of their mechanical clock(s), but the reality is, that many of them turn out to be either common mantel clocks, clocks made in China, or clocks that have little resale value. Of course, there is the odd gem!

Expressing that the clock may not be worth as much as they believe it to be becomes a struggle for me. When I receive a letter from someone inquiring about the value of a recently obtained clock, I make an effort to provide an honest and straightforward response and so, I have come up with a 6-step guide on how to navigate the conversation with kindness and sensitivity.

Daniel Dakota mechanical wall clock, made in China — _{Daniel Dakota wall clock, many of which are found in flea markets today}

Determining the worth of a cherished family clock can be a very delicate matter. Say you have a good grasp of the value of antique/vintage clocks, and know what is desirable/collectible and what is not, you may find yourself in a position where you need to gently convey that a clock, particularly one treasured by a friend or family member, might be a clock with limited value.

How to navigate the conversation:

Acknowledge Its Sentimental Value: Start the conversation by recognizing the sentimental value attached to the clock. Express genuine appreciation for the emotional connection and especially the loving memories it holds. By starting with acknowledgment, you create a foundation for understanding.
Focus on Quality and Craftsmanship: Gradually steer the conversation towards the qualities that might contribute to a clock’s value. Emphasize the significance of craftsmanship, materials, and authenticity. Share your admiration for well-crafted clocks, and express curiosity about the specific details of the clock in question.
Share General Knowledge about clocks: Provide some general information about various types of clocks, highlighting the differences between common mass-produced clocks and those created with precision. Frame the conversation as an opportunity to share learning and avoid any language that might devalue their clock.
Suggest an Expert Appraisal: Float the idea of seeking a professional appraisal for a more accurate understanding of the clock’s value. Assure them that appraisers can offer insights into the historical significance and craftsmanship of the clock. This shifts the focus towards an objective evaluation.
Be Empathetic: Maintain empathy throughout the conversation. Acknowledge the emotional attachment and the significance the clock holds within their family. Reassure them that your intention is not to diminish its importance but to provide a comprehensive understanding.
Reframe the conversation: Encourage them to consider alternative perspectives on the clock’s worth, such as its role as a family heirloom, a beautiful piece of nostalgia, or an interesting decoration with a unique story. Highlight that the value of a clock is subjective and can vary based on individual preferences.

Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock — _{Inexpensive Chinese-made wall clock, circa 1960s}

Navigating discussions about the value of a cherished family clock requires a delicate balance of empathy and information. Approaching the conversation with kindness helps maintain their emotional connection to the clock, acknowledging its sentimental significance within the family without being judgemental.

By gently introducing the notion that its financial value might not align with its emotional worth, you pave the way for a greater understanding.

Remember, a cherished clock is more than just its monetary value. It holds special meaning in the form of family history and sentimental connections, making it a priceless part of one’s heritage.

January 19, 2024

Is this a four-glass clock or a crystal regulator

During the winter months, I teach part-time in a justice program at our local community college. The other day, I had a former student visit this blog and she commented on her admiration for one of my clocks, specifically a time and strike crystal regulator by Ansonia.

Thanks, Cate for allowing me the opportunity to profile this clock once again!

_{American-made 4-glass clocks are commonly referred to as crystal regulators}

First a history of how I acquired the clock and what I know about it. While exploring an antique shop in Bloomfield, Ontario, my wife came across an intriguing find – an antique glass-cased brass time-and-strike American-made clock with an open Brocot escapement, manufactured by Ansonia.

This particular clock, featured in the 1905 Ansonia catalog under the name “Prism,” was priced at $29.00, a substantial sum for its time. It was the simplest design in the crystal regulator line and the lowest-priced model.

Collectors in the clock world frequently have discussions regarding the proper name for these clocks. Are they four-glass clocks or crystal regulators?

Ansonia crystal regulator — _{Ansonia Crystal Regulator} _{showing the Brocot escapement} _{with jeweled pallets}

A “four-glass clock” is a broader term referring to clocks with glass panels on all four sides, while a “crystal regulator” is a more specific subtype of mantel clock known for its transparent glass panels and often associated with high-quality craftsmanship. The primary differences lie in the design, purpose, and origin. The term “crystal regulator” is used specifically for American clocks that fall under the broader category of four-glass clocks, distinguished by transparent panels on all sides. Conversely, a French-made clock with a similar appearance is generally referred to simply as a four-glass clock.

_{The pendulum vials contain nickel slugs}

While both types typically feature Brocot escapements, there’s a notable distinction in the pendulum design. Many four-glass French clocks incorporated mercury-filled pendulum vials, whereas American crystal regulators utilized nickel slugs within transparent vials.

American Crystal Regulators were essentially replicas of French regulators, boasting similar design elements such as a stylistic gong block, visible Brocot escapements, round movement plates, and beveled glass panels. However, they were an economical alternative to the French clock.

French regulators, crafted by high-profile makers like Japy, Marti, Vincenti, and Mougin, were highly esteemed and often included mercury pendulums. In the American market, Ansonia and Seth Thomas were prominent manufacturers of such clocks. They were not built to the higher standards of a French clock and were priced accordingly. Nonetheless, American Crystal Regulators have become sought-after by clock collectors.

The four glass panels of this clock are in very good shape, with only a small corner chip on one panel, which I discovered a few days after purchasing the clock. Fortunately, the chip is not visible from the front. The glass was likely damaged during a servicing session.

Overall, the clock is in good condition for its age and was made somewhere between 1905 and 1910. The brass, though tarnished, cleaned up nicely with the use of a cleaner. The brass was also lacquered to maintain its shine and protect it from deterioration.

Upon acquiring the clock, it was not in running order, and my initial evaluation suggested that all it might require was a thorough cleaning and some bushing work. There was certainly a small amount of wear and the movement required 5 bushings, all on the front plate.

After disassembling, cleaning, and addressing wear, it ran without issue. Now, it’s one of several clocks that run weekly.

I would have to say it is one of the more unique clocks in my collection.

January 12, 2024

Relocating a unique New Haven kit clock

For years, my wife and I have been on the hunt for an elusive Arthur Pequegnat Hall clock, a prized possession among Canadian collectors. Recently, I stumbled upon what seemed like the jackpot—a seemingly authentic piece advertised for a mere $100. However, as I explored the deal further, doubts crept in, casting a shadow over my potential bargain.

Join me on this intriguing journey as we uncover the secrets of a clock that may not be what it initially appeared to be.

_{It certainly looks like a weight-driven clock}

The clock is closely reminiscent of Pequegnat’s craftsmanship. It was a tempting find but a closer inspection raised eyebrows. The clock hands seemed out of place (for a Pequegnat), and the overall workmanship did not quite match the renowned Pequegnat build quality. Could this have been a misstep in our quest, or was there more to this story?

Undeterred I made an over-the-phone offer of $90 and embarked on a 90-minute journey to claim what could be a gem in disguise. The seller warned of a non-functioning clock but sweetened the deal by mentioning that it had weights—only to reveal later that the weights were, in fact, fake. On top of that, a spring-driven New Haven mechanical movement lay beneath the surface.

The weight cans were empty shells, and the decent-quality ladder chains with acorn pull ends were crudely strung to mimic a weight-driven movement.

Further investigation unveiled a raised platform supporting the movement, yet no traces of a seat board that usually accompanies weight-driven mechanisms. The clock’s peculiarities extended to a tied cord on the strike lever, adding to the mystery. As questions piled up, it became clear that this clock’s origins were far from conventional.

The movement is stamped 27. This could be a date stamp but it is more likely the length of the pendulum in inches. The movement plates are pinned rather than held with screws or nuts suggesting an older square-aperture type New Haven movement. Judging from the build of the movement I would say that it is earlier than 1927. The heavy, solid wood case which comes apart in three sections is certainly just as old.

I removed the movement from its case and mounted it on a test stand. The movement runs at 72 bpm, not quite the 60 bpm one would typically expect from a hall clock and the slower beat rate explains the long pendulum rod.

The only plausible explanation was clear: I had purchased a kit clock, where an independently crafted case had been paired with a New Haven movement, dial face, hands, accessory weight cans, and ladder chains with acorn pull ends. It was likely a more cost-effective means of acquiring a tall case clock back in the day.

Despite the oddities, I had, after all, secured the clock at a reasonable price. Now, armed with the knowledge of its peculiarities, I am content with it. Servicing the movement and restoring the case have been completed and after having stood in my work area for a couple of years it was time to move it to its permanent location.

And it looks pretty good! The combination of the separately crafted case with the New Haven movement, dial face, hands, and the accessory weight cans and ladder chains with pull ends came together quite well, offering an appealing and budget-friendly tall case clock.

The lesson in all of this is that in the world of clock collecting, sometimes unexpected discoveries and not value and authenticity are the ones that leave a lasting impression.

January 9, 2024

A Vintage Seth Thomas Clock with a peculiar veneered case

The Seth Thomas Clock Company, renowned for its long history dating back to the early 19th century, produced a variety of clock movements over the years, and among them is the Type 89 movement found in this clock.

Despite the absence of a specific year stamp, the clock’s design and construction suggest a manufacturing date in the mid to late 1930s. Upon initial inspection, it was evident that the clock was not functioning, a common issue with old clocks that have not run in years.

_{From afar the wood finish is striking}

Typically, clock movements face challenges related to low power output caused by wear and tear over time. The gradual deterioration of clocks during years of operation is often attributed to factors such as dirt accumulation, inadequate lubrication, and the lack of proper adjustments.

Although dirt accumulation can persist in a movement, causing friction and wear, I decided to see if I could get the clock to run. The process involved removing the hour and minute hands, releasing four screws securing the movement to the front of the case, removing the strike block, and taking the movement out of its case.

An initial inspection revealed no visible issues with either the time or the strike side. Both mainsprings were found to be wound tight and seemingly ceased, likely due to the accumulation of glue-like dirt between the coils that will prevent the clock from running.

_{Seth Thomas time and strike 8-day movement}

To reduce tension on the mainsprings and provide the necessary energy for the clock to start running, an unwinding of the mainspring was performed using a let-down set. Oil was also applied to the pivots, as a temporary solution. Mixing new and old oil is never a good idea as a harmful abrasive paste is produced that could accelerate wear on the pivots and bushing holes. The plan, therefore, was not to run the clock for an extended period but merely to see if it could run.

While relaxing the mainsprings enabled the movement to run strongly, an issue persisted on the strike side, necessitating further investigation. Despite this, no major issues were anticipated, and the next steps will involve disassembly, thorough cleaning, any remediation, reassembly, and testing.

But first, let’s look at the case.

The case

This clock caught my eye at a thrift shop in Renfrew, Ontario, Canada, primarily due to its attractive appearance with what seemed to be rosewood veneer. Intrigued and encouraged by the reputable Seth Thomas trademark, I decided to make the purchase, especially given the appealing price.

However, upon closer inspection at home, I discovered that what I initially believed to be genuine rosewood was actually a thin layer of faux wood wrapping, and to my disappointment, some of it was peeling off in a couple of very visible areas, the worst by the bezel catch.

_{The worn and peeling section is adjacent to the bezel catch}

There might be speculation about whether the movement was reinstalled in a newer case, but my inclination is that this is how it originally left the factory. What the Seth Thomas company might have considered new and improved and would likely fool most consumers was but a cheap imitation.

It is clearly a cost-cutting measure rather than a later modification. Many clock companies faced financial difficulties during the Depression Years of the 1930s, leading them to seek cost-saving measures but honestly, this discovery is rather disheartening.

Nevertheless, the clock holds value because of the movement, which still has many years left. Join me later as we dismantle the clock movement and address any required repairs.

December 15, 2023

A Practical Journey with an Unwanted Upright Piano

For 27 years, a piano made in Montreal, Canada in 1911 occupied a silent corner of our living room, a relic of bygone days. Years ago we inherited the piano when my wife’s parents downsized from their larger home to a smaller one. They did not want it then and we do not want it now!

Over the years the dust settled on its keys, it was seldom played and its once-grand presence faded into the background of our lives. In the fall of 2023, we made a decision to repurpose the room it was in and it and other pieces of furniture unfortunately had to go.

Despite numerous attempts over several months to find it a new home or a willing buyer, the piano remained an unwanted fixture, a stubborn reminder of the past. We contemplated tuning the piano and refinishing the cabinet, but the restoration far exceeded its actual value. And then, what use would it serve!

_{The beginning stage of dismantling the piano}

Faced with the inevitability of its disposal, we decided to dismantle the piano, a task that turned out to be more challenging than expected. Disassembling it isn’t as straightforward as using a sledgehammer to smash it apart; it requires a systematic approach, considering which parts to remove first to access other sections. And, its considerable weight made the task of shifting it even a few inches from the wall a truly herculean effort.

As we hammered, pried apart, and unscrewed the piano over the course of four days, we expected to feel a mix of emotions, but nostalgia didn’t hit us as we thought it would.

The piano, once the center of musical gatherings, was scattered into hundreds of pieces destined for new purposes. We salvaged pieces of the aged mahogany veneered wood that would be useful for future projects.

_{Sections are set aside for future repurposing}

All metal parts, the cast iron frame, piano wire, nuts, bolts, screws (and there are a lot), and every other bit of metal were donated to a local recycler who happily came by with his aged pickup truck to collect the pieces. What we could not keep or donate was sent to the curb as trash.

_{There are more parts than you can imagine on an old piano}

Among the salvaged wood, a particular piece caught our attention. It was perfect as a clock shelf and it required no trimming or cutting.

As we affixed the reclaimed wood to the basement wall, our shelf now held several antique clocks, each with its own unique character. The irony of a 110-year-old discarded piano giving life to a shelf that now held clocks of varying ages, some younger than the shelf itself was not lost on us.

Displayed on the shelf from left to right is a Jerome & Company round top, a mantel clock from the Hamburg American Clock Company (HAC), a Seth Thomas marriage (the movement (ST) and case are from different makers), an E.N. Welch clock with alarm function, and another HAC from Germany. All are 8-day time and strike clocks and in top running condition.

In the basement’s hushed atmosphere, the clocks ticked in sync with the faint echoes of the piano’s past, forming a connection between the past and present.

Do we have any regrets, not in the least.

December 12, 2023

Honouring History, One Tick at a Time – the Halifax Explosion Dec 6, 1917

In the heart of North End Halifax, on December 6, 1917, a Junghans Crispi clock fell off a wall in a house on Princess Court. Unbeknownst to it, this simple clock would become a silent witness to one of the worst man-made disasters in Canadian history – the Halifax Explosion.

As the Belgian relief ship Imo collided with the French munitions vessel Mont-Blanc, a catastrophic event unfolded in Halifax’s harbour. The explosion at 9:04:35 a.m. reshaped the landscape, claiming 2,000 lives with 9,000 injured, and left an indelible mark on Halifax’s history.

_{Since some case parts were missing, a catalog image of the clock served as a helpful reference}

Fast forward to 2017, a century later, and the remnants of that clock found their way into my hands. The following journey is about a box of clock parts, carefully preserved by a family for generations, passing through to a new owner to be revived and displayed as a connection to history.

Very dirty movement — _{The movement was very dirty but intact}

The task of reviving the clock, and turning it into a connection to history is a process that took over two months.

The restoration unfolded step by step. The clock parts were carefully cleaned, new parts were fashioned, and the correct materials were found to restore the Junghans Crispi wall clock to renewed glory. The hands, frozen since that fateful day, started moving again – a symbol of human resilience.

The restored Junghans Crispi wall clock was finally unveiled in late 2017 and has been ticking away and gracing the wall of our dining room ever since then. Its polished wooden frame, bold brass accents, and rhythmic ticking resonated with the shared history of a city and a clock that refused to succumb to the ravages of time.

As we mark the 107th anniversary of the Halifax Explosion, my Junghans Crispi wall clock stands as a symbol of resilience, remembrance, and the power of restoration.

In the quiet corners of North End Halifax, it tells a story that transcends time – a tale of survival, renewal, and the enduring spirit of a community that rebuilt itself from that terrible moment.

December 8, 2023

My clock says 31 days – what does that mean?

Dropping in Facebook Marketplace from time to time is interesting because there’s always the possibility that an unknowing seller might list an antique clock without realizing its true value. Occasionally, I strike gold, however, the majority of listings mainly feature commonplace antique clocks, alongside an overwhelming abundance of quartz-driven ones.

Daniel Dakota wall clock, one of Tempus Fugits more popular models — _{Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock}

On any typical day, it’s a common occurrence for me to find more than half a dozen 31-day clocks available for sale.

What is a 31-day clock

A 31-day clock is a type of mechanical clock that runs for about a month before it needs to be wound up again. It has a pendulum that swings back and forth to regulate the time. The name 31-day clock comes from the fact that it can operate for 31 days without stopping, but some clocks may run for a few days more or less depending on their level of wear.

_{A Chinese-made 31-day clock} _{converted to a quartz movement}

A significant number of these clocks are designed as spring-driven time-and-strike models, meaning they strike every half-hour announcing the time on the hour.

Most 31-day clocks originate from China or Korea, with trade names such as Citizen (not to be confused with the watch company), Daniel Dakota, Alaron, Olympia, Sabre, Beacon, and well, the list goes on. Directional arrows near the winding arbours typically give away the origin of the clock, with a common association being Chinese or Korean manufacture.

Daniel Dakota movement — _{The hallmark features of a 31-day movement are powerful mainsprings and thin plates}

Acquiring a vintage 31-day wall clock manufactured in China or Korea will not set you back very much. These clocks were and still are widely available since they were produced in massive quantities during the 1960s through to the 1980s. It is a safe bet that a vast majority, around 99%, have never seen the inside of a clock repair shop. Their inexpensive movements appear remarkably resilient, enduring for long periods and finally meeting an unceremonious end in the trash or, popping up on online for-sale sites such as Facebook Marketplace.

Clockmakers typically prefer to avoid servicing these clocks and may encourage you to swap out the mechanical movement for a quartz one if the clock is not functioning. This is primarily due to the powerful and potentially hazardous mainsprings in 31-day clocks, which make working on them a risky task. Secondly, these clocks have such low value that any maintenance, even basic oiling, will cost many times more than the clock is actually worth. Thirdly, replacement parts are impossible to find and any repairs necessitate salvaging components from similar movements. Indeed, converting them to quartz movements is not such a bad idea.

The Distinction Between 31-day and 30-day clock

31-day clocks should not be confused with antique 30-day clocks, such as those produced over a century ago by companies like Seth Thomas, Welch, Waterbury, and makers of 30-day Vienna Regulators.

The latter boasted sturdy movements with deadbeat escapements, large cases, and dials, and a significant number were powered by weights. These clocks were more accurate than the average domestic clock of the time and were often found in public places such as post offices, libraries, business offices, retail establishments, and factories. Unlike 31-day clocks, collectors find these clocks desirable.

If you are fortunate enough to come across a 31-day clock at a remarkably low price, it’s important to temper expectations regarding its resale value. Despite being budget-friendly acquisitions, these clocks typically don’t appreciate significantly in value, and it’s wise to view them more as charming additions to your collection rather than lucrative investments.

November 28, 2023

Junghans round-top mantel clock – wrapping up servicing

In the past two weeks, my focus has been directed towards the servicing of a Junghans roundtop mantel clock. This particular time and strike mantel clock is the Hunsruck model manufactured in the second half of 1913 (stamped B13 on the rear plate). For first impressions and background information about the clock itself, you can go here. For a description of mainspring servicing, you can find that article here.

_{Junghans Hunsruck mantel clock C.1913}

During this part of the servicing process, my attention will be focused on bushing work, reassembly (with some tips), final testing, and addressing the condition of the case.

_{Back of movement showing strike block and pendulum}

My initial assessment revealed that the movement was generally in good condition. While some previous work had been done on it, limited to a basic cleaning, no substantial repairs were evident. Nevertheless, a conspicuous buildup of dirty oil was observed in most pivot holes, underscoring the need for a good cleaning.

_{Avoid using a taper pin for this lever (see arrow), as it would result in the lever being excessively tight; opt for a thin wire instead}

Upon closer inspection, elongated pivot holes in three locations told me that new bushings were necessary: specifically, the third wheel time side, back plate, and both the front and back plates of the star wheel. The star wheel runs off the count wheel and it is the star points that move the tail that activates the hammer to produce the strike on the half hour.

The pivot holes were carefully cleaned out using toothpicks as the first step in the cleaning process. Subsequently, I examined the pivots on each wheel by running a fingernail across them to detect any ridges or imperfections, and they appeared to be in excellent condition. I also verified the integrity of the pins in each lantern pinion. Upon confirming that I had addressed all that I could at this point, the next phase involved cleaning the components in the ultrasonic cleaner.

Once everything was out of the ultrasonic cleaner all components were thoroughly dried to remove all traces of residual moisture.

Now to address the worn pivot holes.

_{A centering bit ensures an accurate cut}

If you are accustomed to handling traditional time-and-strike American clocks, the small pivots on these German clocks might cause some unease. The diameter of each bushing measures just 2.47mm (Bergeon bushing size), whereas conventional bushings for an American clock are often 3.47mm and larger (again, Bergeon-sized bushings).

In the above photo, I use a centering bit to ensure a precise cut into the plate so that the bushing can be seamlessly inserted.

To ensure a precise fit the newly installed bushings are reamed using a cutting broach, followed by smoothing with a broach and cleaning with a toothpick. After each new bushing is in place, the wheels are test-fitted to ensure they spin freely plus sufficient end shake.

Given the delicate nature of the pivots, handling each one requires careful attention, as a broken pivot and its repair can be a challenging and intricate task on a German clock.

After the bushings are installed the movement is reassembled. Before attaching the back plate, all wheels, and levers are positioned in their respective locations.

_{Wheels and levers are ready for the rear place}

To avoid having to remove the back plate to make further adjustments after assembly addressing four specific items will ease the process;

the count lever paddle must be in one of the deep slots of the count wheel,
the cam lever must be on the flat section of the cam,
the hammer tail must be positioned between two points of the star wheel (otherwise the tail contacts a star point, and the hammer will be left in the raised position preventing further striking)
and the pin on the warning wheel must be in the 12 o’clock position to catch the warning lever.

In my experience, the hammer tail contacting one of the star points is the most common of annoyances and calls for parting the plates. It is worth noting that the levers on clock movements of this specific type are not adjustable so, bending a lever to fit is not possible.

Utmost attention must be paid to moving the pivots carefully into their respective holes as the risk of a broken pivot is very high at this point in the process. A “pivot locator” is an indispensable tool for safely moving pivots into their holes while working on the movement.

_{The pendulum is placed such that it can be seen through the front glass} _portal

Prior to mounting on the test stand, the movement is oiled using Keystone pivot oil. As with oiling any clock, the maxim is “less is more”.

The testing phase is one of the most crucial parts of the process, providing a chance to make minor adjustments and regulate the movement. I routinely ensure that the movement goes through at least two or three operational cycles while mounted on the test stand. Once I am satisfied that the movement is running well and needs no further remediation it goes back into its case.

While the movement is being tested I generally address any issues regarding the case. Little needed to be done to this attractive oak-cased roundtop and a general cleaning with Murphy’s soap and an application of paste wax preserved its patina while sprucing up its appearance.

Servicing an antique clock not only respects its history but also keeps its mechanism working for future generations to appreciate.

November 24, 2023

Junghans round-top mantel clock – servicing the mainsprings

Last week I began working on a Junghans round top mantel clock. For first impressions and background information about the clock itself, you can find the article here.

During this segment of the maintenance process, my attention will be focused on the mainsprings.

Upon my initial assessment, it appeared that the movement was found to be in decent condition, overall. A noticeable accumulation of dirty oil in the majority of pivot holes told me that a thorough cleaning was necessary.

_{Junghans movement with the back plate removed}

Upon closer inspection, elongated pivot holes in three locations tell me that new bushings need to be installed: specifically, on the third wheel time side, back plate, and both the front and back plates of the star wheel. The star wheel runs off the count wheel and it is the star points that activate the hammer for the strike.

But first, let’s focus on the mainsprings.

In my experience neglecting certain steps during clock servicing can result in potential future complications.

For example, there is a temptation to overlook the mainspring barrels, yet it becomes evident that unless one is confident about the absence of accumulated dirt and grime within the spring barrel, certainty can only be achieved through disassembly. Moreover, the open design of this particular barrel increases the likelihood of dirt penetrating the springs.

While mainsprings can be removed from their barrels by hand and subsequently coiled back in by hand, a mainspring winder, such as one made by Olie Baker, is an essential tool for the serious repairer.

_{Time side mainspring on an Olie Baker spring winder, an appropriately sized collar is on the right}

Removing and reattaching the caps to any barrel can be quite cumbersome. With this particular barrel, a convenient and swift method involves using a small slotted screwdriver in one of the two small openings to easily pry open the cap.

_{A small slotted screwdriver is inserted in the opening to pry open the cap}

The importance of wearing leather gloves for safety cannot be overstated.

_{Tightening the mainspring allows for the insertion of the collar}

A firm grip on the barrel ensures a predictable and controlled process.

_{The collar is in place} _{and the spring can be let down and removed from the barrel}

During the removal of the mainspring, a thorough inspection is conducted to identify potential issues such as stress cracks, unusual wear, pitting, and the accumulation of rust. Subsequently, the spring undergoes a meticulous cleaning process to eliminate any dirty oil, followed by reoiling, before being reintegrated into the barrel.

Reattaching the cap to the barrels can be accomplished by employing two small clamps to gently guide the cap into position.

_{Two clamps help to guide the cap in place}

Once more, the use of gloves guarantees safety.

Upon proper placement, the cap will emit a distinctive “snap” sound.

_{Both mainsprings have been serviced and the barrels cleaned in the ultrasonic machine}

The springs in this particular clock appeared to be in excellent condition and are suitable for reuse.

Meanwhile, it is essential to inspect the barrel teeth for signs of wear, particularly focusing on any bent or damaged teeth during this stage. Worn teeth may result from a spring that is too powerful and not correctly rated for this clock, while broken or bent teeth could be indicative of a mainspring failure.

Next, we proceed with the remainder of the maintenance for this time and strike clock, moving on with the polishing of pivots and bushing work. Join me in a few days as we continue the servicing of this Junghans movement.

November 14, 2023

Junghans round top mantel clock servicing

I first wrote about this clock in April 2023 after having won it at auction. With so many other projects on the go, I can finally allocate time to focus on servicing this captivating German time and strike mantel clock.

The 1915 Junghans catalog identifies the clock as the Hunsruck, named after a mountain range in Germany, and provides its specifications as 28.5 cm in height with a mahogany or oak case construction, a 14-day run time, and a silvered dial. This clock is the mahogany cased model.

The movement is a time-and-strike design that was a hallmark feature of numerous Junghans mantel clocks during that period. I have one other Junghans mantel clock with an identical 151 movement.

Junghans Corner feet finished — _{Junghans Sydney with the 151 movement}

The Junghans trademark is boldly showcased on the gong block and inscribed on the back of the movement. On the back plate, it is stamped B13 which denotes the movement as having been manufactured in the latter part of 1913.

Removing the movement from the case is relatively straightforward. The movement, which rests on a wooden support board is held in place by two rather large 1 1/8 inch wood screws. After taking the movement out of the case, two brass thumbscrews are removed to release the seat board.

Assessment

Upon my initial assessment, it appears that the movement is in decent condition, overall. However, there is a noticeable accumulation of dirty oil in the majority of pivot holes, indicating a thorough cleaning is necessary.

I use toothpicks to carefully clean out the pivot holes before immersing the plates in the ultrasonic cleaner as part of my standard practice. With a soft cloth, I clean and inspect the pivots on each wheel using a fingernail across the pivot to check for ridges and imperfections. I then check the integrity of the pins in each of the lantern pinions. Once satisfied that the inspection is complete the next step is cleaning the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner.

I will pause here and resume next week with the continuation of servicing the Junghans type 151 clock movement, including details about the necessary bushing work. Additionally, I will provide insights into the case’s condition. Stay tuned for the conclusion!

November 7, 2023

Three arguments for eliminating Daylight Savings Time

Here are three commonly cited reasons for eliminating the cursed Daylight Savings Time convention:

One of the main arguments against daylight saving time is its impact on human health. The abrupt shift in the clock can disrupt people’s sleep patterns, leading to sleep deprivation and increased stress. Studies have shown a rise in heart attacks, strokes, and even car accidents in the days following the time change. By eliminating DST, people would maintain a more consistent sleep schedule, promoting better overall health and well-being.

_{A made-in-Canada Pequegnat clock from the 1920s}

Critics argue that the practice of changing clocks twice a year imposes economic costs on businesses and individuals. The process of adjusting various devices, systems, and schedules can be time-consuming and costly. Moreover, the disrupted sleep patterns of employees can lead to decreased productivity in the workplace. By eliminating DST, businesses would avoid these costs and potentially see a boost in productivity due to a more rested workforce.

One of the original reasons for implementing daylight saving time was to conserve energy by making better use of natural daylight during the longer days of summer. However, with advancements in technology and changes in energy consumption patterns, the energy-saving argument is now considered outdated. Modern studies have shown that the energy savings from DST are marginal, if any, and in some cases, it might even lead to increased energy usage due to higher air conditioning demands on hot evenings. Therefore, proponents of eliminating DST argue that the energy conservation rationale no longer holds, making it unnecessary to continue the practice.

These arguments, among others, have fueled ongoing debates about the relevance and effectiveness of daylight saving time, leading to discussions and policy changes in various regions.

But not in Nova Scotia, Canada. Prepare to set your clocks backward on November 5th at 2:am.

November 3, 2023

Tick Talk Tuesday #51 – My Arthur Pequegnat clock

^{Tick-Talk Tuesday is dedicated to addressing readers’ letters and comments related to clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. In cases where the comments and questions are particularly challenging, I seek advice from my fellow clock enthusiasts to provide the most accurate and helpful response.}

SS writes

Hi Ron. My name is SS

I’m writing from Quebec, Canada

My mother in law gave me this clock before she passed. A while ago.

I’ve been doing some research to see who would appreciate this clock and what is the value.

I’ve been looking on sites but I don’t see this original shape. I was wondering if it would be possible to give me an idea of the value and who to sell it too.

Thanks SS

My Reply:

Thanks for your email, SS. I am just back from vacation and catching up on email queries, so, I apologize for the delay.

What you have is a clock made by the Pequegnat Clock Company of Kitchener Ontario. It is a clock that is part of their Maple Leaf series of kitchen clocks. Here is an article I wrote earlier this year describing clocks in the Maple Leaf series.

The Pequegnat story & the Maple Leaf series of kitchen clocks

Your clock has value and most Pequegnat clocks are sought after by collectors. It would be valued in the $200-$300 range.

Here is another article I wrote that might give you some ideas on how to sell your clock.

Selling your antique clock – some simple and effective strategies

Hope this helps.

Ron

October 10, 2023

Seth Thomas round top shelf clock with lyre movement revisited

During its prime, the Seth Thomas company produced exquisite clocks, and in my view, clocks from the 1870s stand out as the pinnacle of their craftsmanship. This particular clock embodies the design aesthetics of its era, lending it a timeless and enduring appeal.

_{Seth Thomas round top} _{with its vibrant Rosewood case}

The clock boasts a sizable round top design, measuring 15 inches in height, 10 inches in width at the base, and 4 inches in depth. Encased in a visually appealing Rosewood veneer, and it features a mirrored rectangular lower tablet. Some variants have clear glass, but the original design likely incorporated mirrored glass.

The wood grain is exceptionally bold and eye-catching. A missing sliver of veneer between the 9 and 12 o’clock positions on the bezel, which was absent when I acquired the clock in 2019 at an NAWCC clock convention in the United States, has been faithfully restored.

The clock’s distinctive charm is amplified by its unique stylized hands, adorned with an “S” on the minute hand and a “T” on the hour hand. The clock dial seems too well-preserved to be original although the replacement (?) dial displays the Seth Thomas trademark just below the centre cannon.

8-day Lyre movement in its case — _{8-day Lyre movement tightly mounted in its case}

What truly sets this clock apart is its elegant lyre 8-day time and strike spring-driven movement, accompanied by a bell gong with an alarm function. This movement, seemingly stuffed into the case, reveals its intricate workings when the dial mount is removed. The remarkable engineering of the movement is a testament to its adaptability, enabling it to be mounted in a wide variety of clock cases. Nevertheless, as mentioned, it is a tight fit.

The movement proudly bears the die-stamped inscription “S. Thomas, Plymouth Conn.” and is equipped with Geneva stops (or stop-works) for enhanced timekeeping accuracy, a feature often absent in many antique clocks of that period.

Unlike many contemporary clocks, the movement plates are held together with taper pins, reflecting a common practice of the era. The alarm mechanism, situated just below and to the left of the movement is wound by the small end of a double side key. There is an alarm adjustment wheel on the centre cannon with a cam that activates the alarm and once set runs the alarm spring down till the alarm stops which necessitates rewinding each night. The alarm emits a piercing shrill as it strikes the iron bell gong. As the average household had just one clock the sound of the alarm was designed to resonate throughout the entire home.

The movement is mounted on the back of the case using wooden blocks at the top and bottom. To access the movement, the rear panel must be unscrewed, revealing the internal workings.

_{8-day Lyre movement with Geneva stops}

Inside the case, a well-preserved label declares, ”Spring Brass Eight Day Clocks”, “Made and Sold by Seth Thomas, Thomaston, Connecticut”. While slightly weathered in the lower right corner due to minor water staining, the label predominantly remains intact, adding good context to this attractive shelf clock.

After being stored away for 2 years, I recently dusted off the clock and applied a layer of Minwax finishing paste wax. The plan is to display the clock prominently in my home once again.

Undoubtedly, this simple time and strike clock with alarm stands out as one of the most captivating pieces in my collection, embodying the artistry and ingenuity of Seth Thomas clocks from the latter part of the 19th century.

October 6, 2023

My Seth Thomas Regulator #2 Clock five years later

In 2018, while exploring Ontario (Canada), I came across a Seth Thomas Regulator #2 in an antique shop in Bloomfield, just a short drive from Picton, a prominent center in Prince Edward County known for its numerous wineries.

I had my eye on this clock when I viewed it online over the summer and carefully contemplated the purchase before finally acquiring it in the fall of 2018. These clocks are somewhat rare to find, but the price was reasonable, and the clock itself was in very good condition.

The Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was recognizable at one time as one of the most commonly seen regulator clocks in America. It graced many railway stations across both the US and Canada throughout the last century, a testament to its accuracy and reliability. It is a sturdy, precise, well-crafted timepiece that Seth Thomas produced from 1860 to 1950, an impressive 90-year production run. Few clocks can boast such longevity, making it an iconic American clock that every serious clock collector desires.

The design of the #2 remained largely unchanged over the years, but certain design characteristics can help in dating a specific clock. The identification guide below outlines characteristics of the dial and case that assist in estimating the year of manufacture. A clock colleague cautioned me against placing excessive trust in the chart, but I am satisfied with using rough estimates.

With the exception of its distinctive base, most #2s produced after the earliest versions had the pendulum mounted in the rear. The chart also mentions a limited reissue in 1976. While the reissue is well-crafted and aesthetically pleasing, most Seth Thomas enthusiasts would argue that it doesn’t quite compare to an authentic Regulator #2, and the prices for these versions reflect that sentiment. Nevertheless, those who own the reissue appear to be satisfied with their acquisition.

According to the chart, my clock was likely made between 1922 and 1929. It features a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2, Arabic numerals, and spade hands. The bow tie connecting the wood dial bezel and the drop is a single piece (earlier versions had a three-piece bow tie). The clock has a second hand positioned 2 inches above the center cannon, but it’s not a true second hand; it runs off the escapement, taking 80 beats to complete a “minute.” Standing at 36 ½ inches tall, it’s veneered in mahogany.

The bottom right of the movement bears the stamp “77A” with the letter “K” beneath it, although it lacks other distinctive markings. Unlike some versions of the 77 movement that have lantern pinions, this one has cut pinions. Whether one type of pinion is better than the other is open to debate.

As with any item nearly 100 years old, there were some issues with the clock. There is minor scuffing on the dial, no label, a finish that has lost its luster, and paint splatter on the top of the case (though not visible from most any angle). Taking down a clock while painting a room is a simple decision in my view, but some individuals prefer painting around it.

I transported this clock from Ontario to Nova Scotia by car, and removing the pendulum for transportation is not a straightforward process. If you are familiar with the pendulum arrangement on a typical weight-driven Vienna Regulator clock, this one is similar. Removing the weight is as simple as unhooking it from the cable wheel. Like Viennas, the pendulum is hung behind the movement, and both the weight and movement must be removed to access the pendulum since the pendulum must be removed for transport.

The steps to remove the pendulum are as follows. First, the clock hands are removed. The minute hand is secured with a nut, which must be released. The second hand is a friction fit and can be pulled straight off.

There are eight small screws holding the dial in place. Once the dial is off, two larger screws on the wooden second-hand rail can be removed to access the movement. Four cylindrical column posts secure the movement in place; unscrewing them, starting with the bottom two, allows the movement to be lifted/pulled out. Once the movement is out, the pendulum can be unhooked from its suspension spring. The entire process takes less than five minutes.

The trapezoid 77A movement in this clock appeared clean when I first opened the case. There were signs of previous work, such as punch marks around some pivot holes, a common practice frowned upon today. The deadbeat escapement was in good condition and did not require adjustment. Otherwise, the movement looked to be in very good condition.

Getting the clock to run reliably presented a challenge, and it took about a week to troubleshoot and resolve the issue. It eventually became clear that the issue lay in the positioning of the hands with the second hand obstructing the hour hand. I remounted the dial ensuring there was sufficient clearance between the second hand and the hour hand and it ran smoothly thereafter.

Regulating the clock is a relatively straightforward process, achieved by adjusting the rating nut on the bottom of the pendulum. This clock must be level and properly aligned to function correctly.

Time for servicing

In the spring of 2021, the clock began to stop intermittently. It would operate for 5-10 minutes before coming to a halt. I had replaced the suspension spring two weeks earlier and thought I had addressed the issue but clearly, I had not.

The clock’s apparent simplicity masks the tight tolerances it requires, and any signs of wear have the potential to cause the clock to cease functioning. Despite being a time-only movement with few gears I do not believe this is a good movement for the novice clock repairer.

I installed three bushings on the back plate; the second, and third wheels, and the escape wheel, and two on the front; third wheel, the escape wheel, and the verge pivot hole front plate.

At the time I also discovered a slightly bent third-wheel arbour that did not take much effort to straighten.

While the movement was out of the case I replaced the maintaining power spring. I’m unsure if I’ve resolved the clunking sound the clock produced when I wound it previously because I now must turn the key crank in the opposite direction for a quarter turn to adjust the maintaining spring to avoid the clunk.

I also replaced the old cable with a 3/64-inch brass-weight cable. One aspect of the brass cable that I particularly appreciate is its nylon core, which prevents it from coiling. Polishing the pendulum bob and weight enhanced its overall appearance.

Since 2021 it has been running very well and keeping accurate time.

While these clocks were constructed robustly and designed for demanding environments, running for extended periods without the need for maintenance, there is still a requirement for periodic servicing. When I obtained the clock, it quite likely had gone without servicing for a considerable duration, and the maintenance performed in 2021 was certainly long overdue.

Still, I am happy with the purchase of this clock. At present, it adorns the front hallway of our home, adding a touch of elegance to the entrance.

This clock is a splendid addition to our home’s front entrance, with a rich and storied history. While its exact whereabouts over the past 100 years remains a mystery, it remains a remarkable clock.

October 3, 2023

Essential Clock Movement Servicing Steps

Why does a mechanical clock movement require servicing? The answer is quite straightforward. Maintaining your clock’s movement is essential to ensure it continues to function properly and extends its lifespan.

Regular servicing reduces wear and tear, ultimately preserving the clock’s functionality. Ideally, most clocks should undergo servicing every three to five years to maximize longevity.

This article outlines the seven steps I typically follow when servicing an antique or vintage clock movement, using a common American, pendulum-driven movement as an example, Seth Thomas’s Type 86 8-day time and strike movement.

Step 1 – Initial Assessment: Upon receiving a clock, my first task is to determine if it runs. I assess whether it runs and strikes correctly and completes its full 8-day cycle. If it operates for fewer than 8 days, there may be an underlying power problem, which could stem from various factors like weakened mainsprings, worn bushing holes, bent arbours, and so on but more often than not a good cleaning will improve its run time even if there is some wear in the movement.

_{The movement is mounted to the front of the clock}

Step 2 – Addressing non-running clocks: When the clock does not run, I conduct an examination to identify potential issues such as missing or broken components, bent wheel assemblies, and arbours, damaged or worn gear teeth, worn pinions, snapped mainsprings, and broken or broken clicks along with any missing parts like suspension springs or pendulum bobs.

Nevertheless, when all components are intact and the mainsprings appear to be in good condition, I take measures to ensure the clock is properly adjusted for an even beat.

I’ve observed that on many occasions, the mainsprings are wound tightly, and relieving this tension tends to address the problem (albeit temporarily), allowing the clock to operate relatively smoothly. However, if it stops running soon after starting, I note the problem areas and set it aside for servicing.

Step 3 – Disassembly and assessment: After removing the hands, dial face, and taking the movement out of the case (4 screws hold the type 86 in place), I conduct a thorough visual inspection. This step involves checking for damage, dirt, and excess oil, and determining the extent of cleaning required.

I use retaining clamps to safely secure the mainsprings’ power and then proceed with disassembling the movement. Disassembly includes removing outboard parts such as the crutch and suspension rod, releasing the four or five bolts holding the plates in place, and proceeding to remove the wheels and levers.

I assess wear in various areas, including pinions, pivot holes, arbor conditions, and connections between plates and pillars. I also look for tool marks and indications of previous servicing.

Step 4 – Cleaning the parts: Cleaning the clock movement parts is crucial, and I prefer using an ultrasonic cleaner. I use a mild alkaline, biodegradable degreaser concentrate for cleaning. I organize the parts in compartments for easy identification, with strike parts separated from time-side parts.

For open-loop mainsprings such as the type 86, I detach them from the main wheel before cleaning. To guarantee that the mainwheels and springs are reinstalled in their original spots, I mark them with either “T” or “S” for clear identification.

Drying the parts promptly is vital to prevent rust formation. I use shop towels and a portable hair dryer to ensure all areas are dry. Lantern pinions tend to be especially difficult to dry and a hair dryer is an ideal tool to remove excess water.

After cleaning, I inspect the cleaning solution and, if suitable, reuse it.

Step 5 – Polishing pivots: The next step involves polishing the pivots. If the pivots are in good condition, a few passes with an emery board are sufficient. A small metal lathe is ideal but a portable drill will do.

For pitted pivots, more aggressive cleaning and polishing may be necessary, and in extreme cases, pivot replacement may be required. Cleaning and wiping the pivots with a soft cloth is essential, followed by bushing if needed.

Step 6 – Bushing, broaching, and pegging pivot holes: I determine which pivot holes need bushing by assessing lateral pivot movement and marking each one (with a black marker) to be bushed.

I use a Bergeon bushing machine known for its precise work. After making the bush hole, I clean it from chips and burrs, followed by broaching if necessary. In the process, both cutting and smoothing broaches are used to ensure an optimum fit.

Drilling a hole with Bergeon bushing machine — _{A hole is enlarged with a} _{cutter to accommodate a new bushing}

All pivot holes are pegged with toothpicks until no residue remains.

Step 7 – Making necessary repairs: Other potential repairs include re-pivoting, straightening or replacing wheel teeth, sourcing parts, making new parts, and addressing issues with worn lantern pinions and escapement components.

Step 8 – Reassembly, testing, and adjustment: Finally, I reassemble the clock movement, carefully securing the gears and levers in place. I use a pivot locator to move the pivots to their correct location. Once reassembled, the movement goes through a testing process and adjustment on a test stand, ensuring it is in beat and properly regulated. This testing phase can take up to a month before returning the movement to its case.

_{A movement on a test stand. Attached is a microphone for a beat amplifier}

In conclusion, servicing antique or vintage clocks significantly extends their lifespan. These seven steps provide a general guideline for clock movement servicing, though some steps may require further explanation, and individual procedures may vary among clockmakers.

September 29, 2023

Tick Talk Tuesday #50 – My mother-inlaw gave me this clock

^{Tick-Talk Tuesday is dedicated to addressing readers’ letters and comments related to clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. In cases where the comments and questions are particularly challenging, I seek advice from my fellow clock enthusiasts to provide the most accurate and helpful response.}

SS writes
“Hi, Ron. My name is S and I’m writing from Quebec Canada.

My mother-in-law gave me this clock before she passed a while ago.

I’ve been doing some research to see who would appreciate this clock and what its value is.
I’ve been looking on sites but I don’t see this original shape. I was wondering if it would be possible to give me an idea of the value and who to sell it to.

_{The rear of the clock shows a partial label}

My reply

“Thanks for your email. I am just back from vacation and catching up on email queries, so, I apologize for the delay.

What you have is a clock made by the Pequegnat Clock Company of Kitchener, Ontario (Canada). It is a clock that is part of their well-regarded Maple Leaf series of kitchen clocks. Here is an article I wrote earlier this year describing clocks in the Maple Leaf series.

The Pequegnat story & the Maple Leaf series of kitchen clocks

_{The Pequegnat story & the Maple Leaf series of kitchen clocks}

Your clock has worth and most Pequegnat clocks are sought after by collectors. It would be valued in the $200-$300 range.

Here is another article I wrote that might give you some ideas on how to sell your clock.

Selling your antique clock – some simple and effective strategies

_{Selling your antique clock – some simple and effective strategies}

Hope this helps.

Ron”

September 19, 2023

The Philosophical Conundrum of Antique Clocks: When is a Clock No Longer Itself?

In the world of horology, antique clocks stand as both timekeeping devices and exquisite works of art, bearing witness to the craftsmanship and design sensibilities of bygone eras.

Yet, beneath their exteriors lies a profound philosophical conundrum—one that questions the very essence of their identity. As we dive into the realm of antique clocks, we find ourselves pondering a perplexing thought experiment: When is a clock no longer the same clock?

This article embarks on a journey through the intricacies of restoration, originality, and the identity of antique clocks.

When gradually replacing every part of a clock, a fascinating philosophical question arises: at what point does it cease to be the same clock? This conundrum extends to the creation of a “new” clock from those original parts.

This brings to mind the Ship of Theseus thought experiment which raises the intriguing question of identity and continuity. If all the components of a ship are gradually replaced over time, at what point does it cease to be the same ship?

_{Theseus, Photo by Heinz Klier on Pexels.com}

The dilemma lies in determining which of the two clocks can rightfully claim to be the original. This thought experiment delves into the complex nature of an object’s identity, as no two objects can occupy the exact same identity. It challenges us to consider whether an object with all its components replaced can still be fundamentally regarded as the same object.

Several years ago, I had the opportunity to work on a antique clock that was essentially a box of parts.

At first glance, it seemed to be in its original state, but upon closer inspection, discrepancies emerged. Contrary to the initial impression that all components were intact within the box, I soon realized that numerous intricate elements, such as case embellishments and finials, were absent. What’s more, a substantial portion of the case had been reconstructed using contemporary materials, and both front and side glass panels were notably absent.

Centre crown support post — _{Crown support made from new oak}

This prompts the question of whether a clock in such a state can still be categorized as original, or if it has strayed too far from the essence of originality due to the incorporation of modern elements and the absence of vital components.

Oak spindle — _{Fashioning finial bases from an oak spindle}

Despite its captivating visual appeal, my Junghans Crispi does not command the same market value as an authentic, original Crispi clock.

_{Junghans Crispi wall clock C.1899 (??)}

People often place a premium on originality, and I, for one, appreciate a well-preserved clock in its original condition. I may reconsider if it has been tastefully restored or repaired, recognizing that it’s a better fate than being discarded or stripped for parts. However, I wouldn’t expect to pay as much for a clock that has undergone significant alterations.

Valuing an excessively restored clock can be challenging. While conservation and restoration have their merits, the question arises: does a clock that was two steps away from the trash bin become less valuable when restored?

In reality, there are no definitive answers to these questions. Collectors will always exist who prioritize originality and others who are more forgiving of certain changes. So, is this debate a significant concern, or simply a matter of personal preference?

September 8, 2023

The ubiquitous type 89 movement by Seth Thomas

The Seth Thomas Clock Company is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history dating back to the early 19th century. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas over the years. This type was made between 1900 and 1938.

This is a first look at the movement of a Seth Thomas time and strike mantel clock with a type 89 movement. Since there is no year stamp on the clock movement I am surmising that this clock was manufactured in the mid to late 1930s judging from its design and construction.

Discovered at a thrift shop in Renfrew, Ontario, the clock was not functioning initially.

Generally speaking, a clock movement faces issues with low power output caused by friction resulting from wear over time. The primary issue with aging clocks is their gradual deterioration due to extended periods of operation. Common culprits are dirt accumulation, insufficient lubrication, and lack of proper adjustments, although these are unlikely to be the reasons for the malfunction.

Interestingly, a dirty movement often continues to function even without lubrication if it’s in decent condition. There is no doubt that this movement requires bushing work to address accelerated wear, yet regrettably, I do not currently have access to the necessary bushing tools for the task as I am on holiday.

Despite the accumulation of grime, and potential wear-related concerns, I opted to put the movement into action, primarily with the goal of uncovering underlying issues. Doing this required removing the hour and minute hands, releasing 4 screws holding the movement to the front of the case, removing the strike block, and taking the movement out of its case.

Once on the work bench an initial inspection of the movement did not reveal any obvious issues with either the time or the strike side, so, it was safe to proceed further. When found both mainsprings on this time and strike movement were wound tight and appeared ceased likely as a result of the build-up of glue-like dirt between the coils of the mainsprings.

I have found that in some cases gently unwinding the coils of mainsprings with a let-down set can often relieve enough tension to provide a clock with the necessary energy to start running but there was one more step in the process.

_{A letdown set is required in order to release the mainsprings}

Although there was a noticeable amount of dirt around the pivots, I applied oil to each one. However, it’s important to be cautious about mixing new and old oil, as their interaction can result in the formation of a harmful abrasive paste, which can speed up wear on both the pivots and the bushing holes.

Thus, while oiling a dirty movement is a temporary solution, it’s not a replacement for proper disassembly, thorough cleaning, and addressing wear issues.

As a result of releasing the mainspring, oiling the pivots, and putting the movement in beat, it now runs strongly. However, there is something amiss with the strike side and further investigation is required. Despite this, I am not anticipating major issues with this movement.

The next step is disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, and testing. Should it require bushing work, that step will have to wait a while longer.

I have every confidence that this movement will run very well once serviced.

August 25, 2023

German Box Clocks: A Journey into Clockmaking History

The popularity of Vienna Regulator clocks began to wane towards the early part of the 20th century. The more modern and less ornate design of the box clock appealed to changing tastes and preferences after World War I, leading to the gradual replacement of Vienna Regulators with box clocks. The box clock design stood the test of time, enduring for over 30 years.

_{Gustav Becker weight-driven Vienna Regulator}

The German “box clock” is a type of antique clock that became popular in the early 20th century, particularly in the period following World War I. These clocks are sometimes also referred to as “box wall clocks” or “wall box clocks” due to their design and placement on walls.

German "box" clock by Mauthe — _{German box clock by Mauthe}

Key features and characteristics of German box clocks are its design and appearance since the box clock represents a departure from the designs of the Vienna Regulator clocks. Instead, box clocks embraced a more minimalist and utilitarian design. They typically have a simple rectangular or square wooden case with clean lines, a simple crown, glazed features and often lack the intricate carvings and embellishments seen in earlier clock styles.

Numerous German manufacturers, such as Mauthe, Gustav Becker, The Hamburg American Clock Company, Muller, Hermle, and Kienzle, were involved in the design and construction of box clocks.

Box clocks employ a weight-driven mechanical movement or a spring-driven movement. For the cost conscious, spring-driven box clocks were within the budget of most households.

Whether the movements use weights or springs to power the clock’s operation, they require periodic winding to keep accurate time. The run times were typically 8 days though some were made to run for 14 days. The movement is always housed within a wooden case and is typically viewable through glazed side ports.

_{Kienzle time and strike box with round top}

The clock dials on box clocks are typically white or silvered dials with either Arabic or Roman numerals to indicate the hours. Most box clocks have simple black spear or spade hands for better contrast and easy readability.

$299 Mauthe wall clock — _{Mauthe box clock}

A prominent feature of box clocks is the pendulum, which might be quite plain or ornate, which swings beneath the clock’s dial and is visible thorough a bevelled glass panel. The pendulum’s length is adjusted to regulate the clock’s timekeeping accuracy.

Some box clocks include a chime feature that makes a musical tone on the quarter hour while other have a strike feature that rings the hour or half-hour. A clock face with three winding arbours signifies a chiming clock, whereas a clock with two winding points indicates a striking clock. This adds a pleasant sound to mark the passing of time.

The vast majority of box clocks were produced in Germany. German clock-makers were renowned for their precision and craftsmanship, making Germany a hub for clock manufacturing during that era.

Box clocks were widely used in homes, offices, schools, and other public spaces. Their minimalist design made them versatile and suitable for various interior styles.

_{Daniel Dakota box clock from the 1960s}

Caution should be exercised against copies. In the 1960s, the Chinese reintroduced the box clock design and inundated the market with numerous 31-day clocks, sold under various names, with Daniel Dakota being the most widely recognized brand. However, these clocks did not match the quality and craftsmanship of the traditional German box clocks. During the same vintage period, certain Korean and Japanese clocks demonstrated acceptable quality standards but most are to be avoided.

Today, German box clocks are sought after by collectors and antique enthusiasts for their historical significance, craftsmanship, and unique design. They serve as reminders of a bygone era and continue to captivate people with their appeal.

If you are interested in acquiring a box clock, it’s essential to verify its authenticity and condition, as well as consult with experts or appraisers to ensure its value and authenticity.

August 8, 2023

Clocks at our summer retreat

Taking a look at this Ansonia cotteg clockwith the dial off

At our seasonal cottage located in central Canada, we enjoy displaying a small selection of clocks, during the summer months.

The first clock, displayed for a number of years, was a Danial Dakota time and strike clock, which we had converted to a quartz movement. This clock, originating from the 1960s, incorporated Chinese design elements that were inspired by American clocks of that era. It required minimal maintenance and provided very good accuracy.

To operate, it relied on a “C” cell battery. This chiming clock offered both Westminster and Whittington chimes, with my wife and I favouring the Whittington chime.

However, after a period of time we grew weary of the clock’s artificial electronic musical tone, and thus we decided to replace the Danial Dakota clock with a proper mechanical clock.

The Mauthe time and strike box clock we acquired as a replacement at the cottage features a raised maple leaf on its crown. This detail leads me to believe that it was likely sold under a Canadian brand, possibly marketed specifically for a department store or jewellery store. The distinctly Canadian touch with the maple leaf emblem, adds to its charm and appeal in our Canadian cottage setting.

_{Mauthe box clock with maple leaf emblem on the crown}

Next to the box clock is a captivating oak-cased gallery clock produced by the Empire Clock Co. of England. It was acquired through an auction in Nova Scotia and boasts a unique feature — a 10-inch dial instead of the more common 12-inch dial seen in similar gallery clocks.

Despite its resemblance to a fusee clock, it operates with a conventional spring-driven mechanism, which means its timekeeping performance is average at best.

Adorning the wall of our sunroom is a familiar time-only schoolhouse clock that was recently gifted to me. It features a sizable 12-inch Roman Numeral dial and a pendulum visible through reverse-painted glass.

Although it has a few minor veneer imperfections that I plan to address later this year, I have already examined the movement and confirmed its excellent condition. After re-oiling it, I carefully placed the movement back into its case.

Displayed in our family room is a Hermle clock that harkens back to a nostalgic design known as the “wag-on-a-wall” style. This clock operates on a weight-driven mechanism and includes both timekeeping and striking functions. It emits a delightful bim-bam sound by striking on three rods.

The design aesthetic of this clock strongly resembles the clocks manufactured in the 1960s, which aligns with its likely production period. While it possesses a plain and unadorned appearance, it carries a certain charm and serves as a reminder of that era.

Among our collection of cottage clocks, we have a New Haven ogee-style clock that operates on a 30-hour time and strike mechanism. It is smaller than a conventional ogee clock and might be referred to as a mini ogee standing at just 18 inches high.

From afar, it presents an appealing appearance, capturing one’s attention. However, upon closer examination, it becomes apparent that the clock has undergone a removal of its veneer at some point in its history. The absence of the veneer adds a touch of character and reveals the clock’s journey through time, offering a glimpse into its past.

Finally, a well-worn 30-hour cottage Ansonia clock graces a bedroom dresser.

Despite its visible signs of use, this clock continues to perform well, a testament to the remarkable engineering employed by the clock’s manufacturers. Craftsmen at the time anticipated the rigours of wear and tear, and their foresight in creating such durable movements showcases their longevity.

Clocks at our summer cottage not only serve as functional timekeepers but also carry with them a unique charm and nostalgia.

Each clock tells its own story, displaying the marks of time and the craftsmanship of its makers. Whether it’s the captivating gallery clock with its distinctive dial or the familiar schoolhouse clock with its endearing imperfections, these clocks create a harmonious blend of functionality and aesthetics within the cottage.

As their hands tick away the hours, they remind us to slow down, appreciate the present moment, and savour the timeless tranquility of a summer retreat.

July 25, 2023

Restoring Antique Clocks according to Customer wishes

While I do not operate a clock business I have, in the past, worked on other people’s clocks.

The customer’s perspective and preferences are always paramount when it comes to repairing and restoring antique clocks. As an antique clock blogger and clock repairer, I believe it is crucial to respect and understand the wishes of the clock’s owner. Each customer may have their own unique vision for their clock, and it is important to provide them with options while also offering expert advice.

When working on a customer’s clock, it is customary to present various options for repairing the movement and addressing any case issues. While some clocks may have significant provenance or historical value, necessitating minimal intervention, others may benefit from repairs and cleaning to bring out their full potential. However, it is ultimately the customer’s decision on how they want their clock to be treated.

In a recent experience, I had the opportunity to work on a clock with a non-functioning movement and a beautifully designed case. When discussing the options with the customer, they expressed a desire to prioritize making the clock run and replacing the broken hands, while leaving the case untouched. Although I believed that cleaning the case and applying a fresh coat of shellac would enhance its appearance, I respected the customer’s wishes and proceeded accordingly.

In the realm of antique clocks, the customer’s satisfaction is of utmost importance. While as a clock restorer and enthusiast, I may have my professional opinions and recommendations, it is essential to remember that the customer’s vision and preferences take precedence. By offering different choices and providing expert guidance, we can ensure that the customer’s clock not only functions well but also aligns with their aesthetic sensibilities and personal attachment to its history.

The customer’s desires should be respected when working on antique clocks. While expert advice can be offered regarding repairs and restoration, the final decision lies with the customer.

By presenting various options and considering their input, a functional clock that meets their expectations and preserves the integrity of the clock’s history and design while preserving the relationship between the repairer and the customer is the ultimate goal.

July 7, 2023

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What is a 31-day clock

The Distinction Between 31-day and 30-day clock

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