This is Part I entitled History Unearthed. It is the first part of a two part series. Part II concerns servicing the movement.
My recently acquired New Haven Gothic Steeple 30-hour clock is an online auction win.
The case is in very good condition apart from minor veneer issues on the base and the columns. The clock is missing the tip of the right finial although it might be hard to tell from the photo. It measures 20 1/2 inches tall with a 5-inch dial. The movement appears to be original to the case.
I have an upstairs office in my home where I work on most of my clocks. I also have a small workshop in my basement where I work on clock cases; gluing, painting, reconstruction and other odd jobs.
In the spring of this year (2019) my wife asked me how many clocks are running in my office at any given time. I said, “I’m not sure”.
I put together a video to show how busy my office can be. Someone (not my wife) asked me if the sounds of ticking clocks bothered me and my reply was, “I find the sounds very soothing”. Allow me to take you on a tour.
I hope you enjoyed the tour. Let me know if you have any general comments or ones you would like more information about.
This is Part II of a two part series. Part one covers the first three steps in renewing a Seth Thomas clock dial. In this, Part II, the decorative design is restored on the corners.
The Seth Thomas clock as found
Inpainting is the process of reconstructing lost or deteriorated parts of a clock dial. In the museum world, in the case of a valuable painting, this task would be carried out by a skilled art conservator or art restorer. Inpainting, as opposed to repainting and restoring the entire dial, addresses the degraded areas of the dial using a few simple techniques.
Inpainting is cost effective and can be done on the home work bench
Inpainting certainly does not meet the higher professional standards of a service such as The Dial House, which perform exemplary work but I will not have a dial professionally restored if the cost is twice what the clock is worth. There will always be occasions when a professional restoration is justifiable, however.
Inpainting is cost effective and can be done on the home work bench.
This is Part I of a two part series. Part one covers the first three steps in renewing a Seth Thomas clock dial. In Part II the decorative corner design is restored.
Seth Thomas column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike weight driven shelf clock, as found
Inpainting is the process of reconstructing lost or deteriorated parts of a clock dial. In the museum world, in the case of a valuable painting, this task would be carried out by a skilled art conservator or art restorer. Inpainting, as opposed to repainting and restoring the entire dial, renews the dial using a few simple techniques.
Some of the methods can be found in T. E. Temple’s excellent resource book entitled Extreme Restoration.
I have worked on Gilbert movements previously and each one has slight differences. This one has a rod gong with two striking hammers. Disassembly was routine but required the removal of some parts to separate the plates.
The Gilbert Clock Company began making clocks in December of 1828 and produced clocks over a span of 130 years.
Gilbert tambour style clock model 2038
This is the model 2038 with a bim-bam strike or what Gilbert in its marketing called a Normandy Chime. The model number along with the words “Normandy Chime” are stamped on the bottom of the case. The “Normandy Chime” was reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy (Corneville) in France.
In terms of nomenclature within clock circles, calling it a “Chime” certainly adds to the confusion as this would be considered a striking clock rather than a chiming one.
Among common parlour clocks you will find few EN Welch clocks. There is a good reason for this. The company was absorbed by the Sessions Clock Company in 1903 so any Welch clock is 115 years old and older.
E N Welch Parlour clock, The Whittier circa 1897
This E N Welch time and strike parlour clock is the Whittier model. The clock was made some years after Welch established its reputation as a quality clock manufacturer with the Patti series. The Whittier model represents a period from 1897 onward when Welch re-organized following a bankruptcy and produced well made but inexpensive clocks for the masses.
I located the clock in an antique store in Kazabazua, Quebec in 2016 while my wife and I were on a day trip from our summer cottage. The seller said the strike side did not work and we negotiated a lower price.
The clock ran for several days but despite adjustments I was unable to get the strike side to run correctly. The stop/warning lever and the count/lifting lever were intact, so, I was puzzled; it should run. Straightening the levers might solve the problem.
Clock collectors usually pride themselves in having at least one Gustav Becker (GB) clock in their collection. I have just one but I am always on the lookout for another.
Gustav Becker wall clock
Becker clocks are not difficult to identify and date. Along with a maker’s stamp, serial numbers on the clock movements identify the year of manufacture. This clock was made in 1902 however, the original 1902 Braunau movement had too many missing parts and was replaced. It now has a “newer” Polish sourced Braunau movement from 1917.
Over the past seven years, I’ve installed a number of bushings in clock movements, but I had never attempted to bush a clock spring barrel until now. While some clockmakers regularly bush barrels, this is the first time I’ve encountered a barrel mainspring in such poor condition. Despite being my first attempt at bushing a barrel, the process was largely successful.
Jauch wall clock
Two years ago, I purchased a Jauch schoolhouse clock at auction for $50. It features a straightforward, time-only movement, making it an excellent choice for anyone new to clock repair.
Jauch movement
German clock movements from the 1970s were not always built to the highest standards, often plagued by two key issues: plated pivots and soft brass. Softer steel pivots were used to prolong the life of cutting machines, with plating added to provide sufficient hardness. Unfortunately, this plating wears away over time, leaving the pivot significantly worn.
This particular movement does not have plated pivots. However, the second issue—soft brass—is evident. In this case, the steel arbor has caused significant wear to the brass cap and barrel.
Gap in barrelAnother shot of the enlarged hole on the cap
During a previous servicing, I installed three bushings but did not address the mainspring barrel.
Since I purchased the clock, it has consistently run 10 minutes fast at the start of the 8-day cycle and 10 minutes slow by the end. There’s likely some underlying physics related to barrel slop that affects this erratic behavior, though the exact cause eludes me. Clearly, something unusual is at play. Will bushing the barrel and its cap improve the running characteristics of this movement? Time will tell.
Assembled movement
A Challenging Repair
For the barrel repair, I chose a #60 Bergeon bushing to fit the reamed-out hole, as it was the largest size available in my bushing supply.
Largest Bergeon bushing with an outside diameter of 8.5mmThe ratchet gear must be removed to work on the barrel arbour
To remove the barrel arbor from the barrel, I first had to take off the ratchet gear. Lacking a gear puller, I placed the barrel in a vice, positioned two pieces of wood on either side beneath the ratchet, and gave the arbour a light tap with the nylon end of a brass hammer. The ratchet came off easily.
After popping off the barrel cap, I used my spring winder to remove the mainspring, allowing access to the barrel. I then restrained the spring with a collar. So far, everything was going smoothly.
Jauch mainspring barrel in Olie Baker spring winder, with capture collar on right
I positioned the barrel in my Bergeon bushing machine and used the centering bit to establish the center. Using an 8.47mm cutter, I created a hole and installed the bushing. To secure it, I peened the bushing in place, forming a lip on both ends to ensure it stayed firmly seated. With the barrel complete, I moved on to the cap.
This is where things didn’t go quite as smoothly. I centered the cap as accurately as possible on my bushing machine, drilled through it, and installed a bushing of the same size. However, the arbour’s diameter on the cap side was larger than on the barrel side, so I used another reamer to enlarge the inside of the bushing. As I worked, I noticed the bushing wall was becoming quite thin. To preserve a sufficiently thick wall, I decided to reduce the diameter of the arbour. Using my metal lathe and a cutter, I trimmed the arbour to achieve a proper fit. Once satisfied, I peened the bushing in place.
Cap bushingBarrel bushing
When I reinstalled the barrel into the movement, I noticed that the cap could have been better centered. There is a slight tilt, which became apparent once the barrel was in place. I wondered whether the gear would properly mesh with the second wheel pinion as the barrel rotates or if it might rub against the second wheel. After a few days of observation, it seemed to function without issue.
Looking back, I realize it would have been better to bush the barrel side first, test it, and then move on to the cap side. It’s all part of the learning process!
Next time, taking extra care to pinpoint the exact center will undoubtedly lead to a better result. Given that this is a budget clock and not my finest work, I see it as a valuable experience.
Time to relax with a few good books, clock books, of course
It is time to take a little break.
I typically maintain a steady output of 7 to 9 clock themed articles per month. A number of articles have been prepared in advance of the summer months which means that there will be NO interruption in blog activity.
July 1 is the national day of Canada the effective date of the Constitution Act of 1867 then called the British North American Act. This year we celebrate 152 years as a nation. Canada Day is often informally referred to as “Canada’s birthday”. Celebratory events take place on July 1.
Most communities across the country will host organized celebrations for Canada Day, typically outdoor public events, such as parades, carnivals, festivals, barbecues, air and maritime shows, fireworks, and free musical concerts.
Prince of Wales parlour clock
Back when Canada was a young nation a small clock company known as the Canada Clock Company struggled to make its mark and produced some of the finest Canadian clocks that our country has ever seen. This is model called the Prince of Wales and it is a fitting tribute to this our nations birthday.
This post explores buying tips for novice antique clock buyers. Those looking for an antique clock in general rather than a specific type or model of an antique mechanical clock will find the following tips very useful.
Vintage versus antique
According to the United States Government publications, the term “antique” is reserved for valuables that are over a century old. Webster’s dictionary defines an antique as a work of art, piece of furniture, or decorative object made at an earlier period and according to various customs laws at least 100 years ago. Wikipedia defines the word antique as applying to objects at least 100 years old.
Restored Seth Thomas antique column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike weight driven shelf clock circa 1865
According to eBay, vintage is a defined period from 1920 to 1969. The use of the word vintage in online auctions and elsewhere is becoming more and more like the word “rare”. Some may define “vintage” as anything that was purchased less than 24 hours ago, is dirty and worn, or looks like it might be old if you know nothing about its history. Sellers often do not know anything about what they are selling and often describe the item as “vintage”.
Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time wall clock circa 1930
The word “collectible” is also used, just like the word vintage has been misused. Just about anything sold these days is marketed as a collectible if not vintage. Most serious buyers would agree that when it comes to clocks younger than 100 years old but older than 30 they are considered vintage and collectible is anything within 30 years.
Antique clock buying tips
Buying a clock without actually touching and inspecting it is always a gamble and making a judgment based on online images, most of which are of poor quality, complicates the decision-making even further. The sad stories of people who thought they bought an antique clock with a mechanical movement only to find a quartz one when the clock arrived at their door are not fiction. This and other examples are the many challenges facing the antique clock shopper in today’s online world.
I am not a firm believer in purchasing an antique clock online based on images unless one is very familiar with and respects the reputation of the seller. Although you may find that special clock online my advice is to see the clock in the flesh prior to making your final decision.
Simon Willard banjo clock circa 1810
Questions you might ask yourself prior to the purchase
Will I get my money’s worth? Will I be “ripped off”?
Will it work when I get it home?
What do I have to do to fix it if something is wrong and what could I pay to fix it?
What did the seller not disclose? What are the little surprises that await me when I get home?
“Life is a box of chocolates….you never know what you are going to get”, Forest Gump
3 Simple rules for antique clock buying
Here are 3 simple rules on how to buy that special antique clock you’ve always wanted.
1. Locate the antique clock
The style and type of antique clock is a personal preference. I prefer wall clocks over mantel clocks, parlour over gingerbreads, and Ogees over cottage clocks.
If it is a local online inquiry meet with the seller to finalize the sale. If the clock is found in an antique shop or antique mall you will not be dealing with the seller (there are exceptions) but an agent who may know absolutely nothing about the clock.
Avoid Chinese or Korean clocks often advertised as “31-day” clocks. Although they are normally reliable runners, clock-makers will tell you that they are not worth fixing. None are antiques.
2. Ask a lot of questions
Does the clock run?
A running clock has more value than a non-running example. Ask the seller to demonstrate a running clock.
Who is the maker (manufacturer)?
Manufacturers make both inexpensive and quality clocks (there are exceptions). Seth Thomas, a respectable American clock-maker manufactured inexpensive clocks that have little value and higher-end models that are very desirable by collectors. The name alone does not always equate to value.
Has the clock been altered in any way?
Newer case pieces, decorations, new glass, refinished case, a replacement movement, a replacement pendulum, etc. will reduce the value and sometimes significantly.
If it does not run, are all the parts intact?
If it has all the parts, can it be repaired either by you, the buyer, or a competent repair person? I know of a time and strike clock that was missing the strike side gears.
How old is it?
Again, vintage or antique. A clock made in 1919 is now an antique.
Does the clock have provenance, an interesting and verifiable history?
How long has the seller had it?
A cherished family heirloom has more value than an item recently acquired for a quick profit.
Would you accept a lower price?
Point out specifically why the price should be reduced, missing pieces, non-running, poor condition.
3. Deal directly with the seller
By dealing with the seller in person you will always have the opportunity to walk away if you are not satisfied.
Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock Ca. 1899
Not every antique clock is rare or valuable and some clocks are more desirable than others. That 150-year-old 30-hour Ogee is not as valuable as you might think but a much younger vintage French figural style clock may be worth a lot more.
If you are looking for a very specific type or model of antique clock you will find that it takes time and research to find it but there will be a satisfying reward once found.
In Part I, I wrote why I collect, repair and restore clocks. In this, Part II are 9 reasons why clock collecting and repair is a great hobby for just about anyone.
9 Reasons why clock collecting and repair is a great hobby
This is Part I of a two part series. In Part I, I will discuss why I collect, repair and restore clocks. In Part II are 9 reasons why clock collecting and repair is a great hobby for just about anyone.
I have been using the Rowling theme from WordPress for the last two years and thought it was time for a change. The new look is the Gateway theme. Let me know if you like it or if I can improve upon it.
Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1, an example of one of the clocks offered for sale
I do not normally promote auctions sales and derive no benefit from mentioning them however something special is happening on June 8th 2019. It is not often that so many clocks from one maker are on sale at one specific time. In New hamburg, Ontario (Canada) 200 Arthur Pequegnat clocks are on the auction block. All styles of clocks are being offered, wall, hall, mantel, shelf and so on including some variants.
At least three Monctons are offered for sale
This is a unique opportunity for Canadian collectors and anyone else interested in antique clocks. Were I closer I would certainly be there to enjoy the frenzy of an auction sale. Here are the clocks being offered.
This is the only true gingerbread clock I have in my collection, temporarily. By this summer (2019) it will be returned to a family relation.
Dial and movement has been removed; notice the 4-colour tablet design
Can you get this thing working, my sister said? Sure, I said. Grand Assortment is an odd name for a Sessions clock, I said. The name certainly lacks imagination, but this particular clock is one of three in a series and sold for $4.00 in 1915 and could be configured with alarm and/or cathedral bell. This particular clock is Grand #3.
I do not come across many antique E Ingraham & Co. clocks and have just one other in my collection, the Huron from 1878, but I came across another recently that I found in a local antique shop. The price was right so, I snapped it up. The”S” shaped logo on the dial led me to assume it was a Sessions, but it was not – I’ll get to that later.
Rare Ingraham Huron balloon style clock in Rosewood
This is a parlour clock. It might have been described in company advertising as a kitchen clock. Some even refer to it as a gingerbread. There are a number of terms used when describing clocks of this style and the three names are used interchangeably by sellers on online for-sale sites and antique stores.
E Ingraham parlour clock circa 1897, sitting in an antique shop
I was on a Facebook clock collector page recently and I was intrigued by the work someone had done on a clock that was surely destined for the garbage bin. The transformation was given an apt phrase, “Trash to Treasure” and so I thought I would write about my own experiences resurrecting old clocks.
Preserving the original patina is always the principle goal and I do as much as I can to keep things as they are. However, when the finish has been adversely affected by environmental damage, heat, cold, humidity over the course of many years, as in a couple of examples below, the only course of action is refinishing.
There are times when the only course of action is complete restoration
Winter, along with the dry conditions of a typical Canadian home, can play havoc with wooden clock cases. In Canada we generally shut the doors and windows to keep the cold air out from mid November to mid March and we may stay inside for days at a time. During our Canadian winter we have difficulty controlling indoor humidity. Most modern homes have a commercial style air-exchanger that is designed to control relative humidity but it can only do so much.
I have dozens of clocks and most do not seem to mind the changes in humidity from season to season other than a rate adjustment. Those vintage clocks that are adversely affected tend to be clocks with thin veneers that separate from the frames of the cases. Less affected are Ogee clocks with thicker veneers.
My Ingersoll-Waterbury time and strike clock from the mid 1940s is a 70 year old clock and not a particularly valuable one to begin with but has been affected with peeling veneer. The peeling veneer is unsightly and must be addressed.
I am not opposed to using modern materials to repair a vintage clock and in this case yellow carpenters glue was used to close the gaps on both the left and right rear of the case. Yellow carpenters glue has a bonding strength of 3 tons and for maximum effect is should be clamped for 24 hours.
Split veneer on left side, rear
Both sides of the case were splitting open. The right was slightly worse than the left. Although I have several clamps I only had one to spare for this little project so, the job was spread over a few days.
Right side is clamped
Wax paper is placed between the clamp and the veneer to prevent the glue from adhering to the clamp itself.
Once the glue has bonded, the case is lightly sanded in the affected areas, the remaining cracks treated with wood filler and touched up with a dark stain.
Stain-able filler in the small cracks that remain
Two coats of shellac are then applied.
Not perfect but an improvement.
Clocks and museums
I am not fanatical about humidity as far as my collection is concerned but museums go to great lengths to control humidity. In museums temperature and humidity are interrelated, and must be monitored and controlled in conjunction with one another towards the goal of preservation. Room temperature is usually established according to the needs of visitors, and is set between 18 and 20°C. The relative humidity for the correct conservation of the works displayed usually lie in the limited range between 45 and 50%.
Clocks react to humidity differently. Clocks with wood pendulum rods need seasonal adjusting as the wood contracts and expands with changes in humidity. Wall clocks that have tight doors in the summer are easier to open in the winter as wood contracts.
High humidity can be mitigated through the use of humidifiers if there is sufficient concern about dry air and its effect on clock cases. It is a good option in the winter months.
If you have a modest collection of clocks I would not worry about humidity issues but you can be assured that seasonal changes can have an affect on your clocks.
What other machine have you acquired that has worked continuously since it was made 150 plus years ago and still does the job it was intended for? Mechanical clocks revolutionized people’s perception of time by displaying neutral, uniform units that showed the passage of time. Though not as accurate as the modern electronic timekeeper the mechanical clock remains a marvel of engineering and innovation.
The constant search for clocks
Locating antique and vintage clocks involves travelling, meeting fascinating people and discovering a clock’s particular history. Each story is unique and some stories are sad. I recently arranged the purchase of an antique French shelf clock, arrived to pick it up and discovered that the person was terminally ill and selling off his clock collection to provide for his wife after he had passed. I really felt sorry for the fellow. Of course, many stories are happy ones.
I enjoy clocks for what they are. I often think about the men who conceived them, built them and the craftsmen working in small factories in places such as New England with primitive (by our standards) tools and the harsh conditions they endured. Life to them was a day-to-day struggle. That the clocks are still with us today is a testament to the pioneers of clock-making.
Miniature Vienna Regulator wall clock, circa 1870
There are a lot of clocks I find intriguing. There are some people that collect complex clocks and I appreciate them as well but I lean towards beauty in simplicity. For example, the miniature Vienna Regulator pictured above is a time-only clock made during the Austrian-Hungarian empire (1870). It is simple, little can go wrong and after nearly 150 years it is still running strong.
There is a certain joy in collecting and repairing clocks. The hobby of clock-making allows one to escape from negativity, put aside worldly matters, effectively manage stress, and dispense with everyday concerns. Occasionally clock problems are very challenging however, the joy in discovering a solution is immeasurable. Beyond that, clocks are an art form and should be appreciated for what they are.
As a collector, the number of clocks I have is not important. The size of my collection is also not important but by trimming my acquisitions from time to time I keep it manageable.
One cannot deny the classic style of an American Ogee clock. This one is in great shape and required almost nothing to get it to top form. 30-hour shelf clocks are abundant but not many cases survive years of wear and tear.
Dial removed to show the 30 hour movement
This George H. Clark 30-hour shelf clock is a very good example of Connecticut form. The case form is called an “og” or “ogee”, a mathematical term that describes the “S” curve shape in the primary molding that surrounds the door.
The clock has a brass time and strike, weight driven movement with an excellent original printed paper label on the interior reading in part “Made and Sold at/46 Courtlandt St/New York…. George H. Clark”. It measures 28 x 17 x 4.5”. This rectangular shaped case is decorated with nicely grained mahogany veneers. The veneer has very little if any losses.
The dial face
The upper section of the door is fitted with clear glass. Through this one can view the painted wood dial. The wood dial tells me that it is an early pre-1850 clock. This dial is formatted with a Roman numeral time track.
It is always a challenge matching 100+-year-old paint but by combining white. brown and yellow acrylic paint I was able to approximate the original colour. Some Roman Numerals were touched up with black acrylic paint.
The wood dial before touch-ups
And after numerals and face given a matching paint; you can see the difference in the number 4
I also glued two small blocks under the left and right “L” pins to centre the dial correctly.
The door is open showing the gong coil and the pasted label in very good condition
The lower section features a beehive painted tablet. The tablet is a replacement but fairly close to what would have been there at the time.
Beehive design; not original but in keeping with the style
Observations regarding the movement
The movement looks like an early (unmarked) Waterbury, ca. 1860 type 2.411. Waterbury movements have “quarter-round” corners, while most other ogee movements tend to have the “tombstones” or plain rectangles. The movement could have been swapped but It is difficult to tell.
A clean Jerome style movement
Everything except the movement points to a period between 1840-50. If the movement is a replacement it was likely an early replacement.
30-hour movements will run surprisingly well with horrible pivot wear. However, regarding repair, my view is this: I do not normally install new bushings in every single pivot hole on the movement. If a bushing hole is passable I will leave it as-is but if the hole is quite oblong I will install a new bushing to mitigate potential gear meshing issues in the future.
Addressing the movement
I will also ignore some past repairs. For example, in this particular movement I noticed 4 punch marks around the escape wheel bridge pivot hole. As most clock repairers know using a punch to close a pivot hole was an acceptable practice many years ago though it is not considered a good practice today. In this particular case, the pivot hole was in good shape and I decided to leave it as-is. After assessing the movement further, I installed one bushing on the second wheel front plate strike side (S2) and the second on the second wheel strike side rear plate (T2). Just two bushings. As to the three lantern pinions, they were in very good condition.
Reassembly was routine. The time side ran fine.
Adjusting the strike side was not easy and should have been a simple procedure. The problem was not only correctly positioning the warning pin on the fly but ensuring that the warning hook lever could actually meet the warning hook. The levers in this clock had been bent every which way making it a real challenge to find the correct angles. It did not strike correctly before servicing. Trial and error combined with colourful language certainly helped correct the strike.
The finished clock
The gong block and coil were also cleaned up. Tip; it helps to put the same screws back in the same holes. Seems trivial but it is a good practice. Not all screws are the same.
Gong block removed and cleaned
Little time was spent on this clock and I was fortunate to have an almost perfect case. The previous owner knew how to take care of the case but the movement neede work. When many of these clocks stopped they simply became decorations but I am sure that this one will run reliably for many more years to come.
I asked reader and fellow horologist Bob G. if he could kindly give me permission to profile one of his favorite clocks, an Ansonia Marquis crystal regulator circa 1904. This is a very impressive clock that showcases the best of Victorian style at the turn of the twentieth century.
The photos are Bob’s and I will let them largely speak for themselves. But first some information about the company.
Much has been written about the Ansonia Clock Company. The company’s history can be found here. Formed in 1844 the Ansonia Clock Company had a relatively long life but went into receivership just prior to the infamous stock market crash of 1929. The machinery and dies were sold to a Russian holding company thus ending the long reign of one of Americas best known clock companies.
“…there came an order to supply the Soviet union with men and machines to make watches and clocks, neither of which products ever had been manufactured there. Representatives of Amtorg went to the Ansonia Clock Company in Brooklyn and to the Duber Hampden Watch Company of Canton, Ohio, and bought them lock, stock and barrel. Then they hired most of the skilled employees of the plants to go to Russia and operate the familiar machines. These have been installed in a new, many-windowed building in Moscow, where Russian apprentices are beginning to master the trade.”
An inglorious end to a fine clock-maker. Now to Bob’s clock.
Clock face showing Brocot “open” escapement
Bob writes:
the Ansonia “MARQUIS” crystal regulator mantel clock is an eight-day time and strike with open escapement, jeweled pallets, porcelain dial, thick beveled glass and a brass bezel. The hands and pendulum appear original and it came with an old key which is probably a replacement. There are no hairline cracks or chips that I could see in the dial or the beveled glass. The pendulum is the same as the one shown in the 1904 catalog.
Pendulum bob showing faux mercury in two glass tubes
Ansonia listed the MARQUIS in its 1904 catalog. It may have been produced a couple years either side of that date. The original price in 1904 was a whopping $40.00, not cheap for that time period. $40.00 in 1904 is equivalent in purchasing power to $1107.48 in 2019.
The clock measures 15½ inches high and 7½ inches wide with a 4-inch porcelain dial. The case is listed in the catalog as polished brass, “rich gold” ornaments.
Side view of the Marquis
I purchased this clock as part of a large collection. The owner had passed away, and his grandson was settling the estate. The grandfather had opened a jewelry store and clock shop over 73 years ago and the store is still in operation today.
This clock needed a good cleaning, and the brass was badly tarnished.
Tarnished brass base
After cleaning and polishing
The gold ornaments were left intact to preserve the rich patina.
Ornamental features, the legs and crown
The entire clock was disassembled, and the brass parts were run through an ultrasonic cleaner, then polished.
Back plate, coiled gong and hammer
The movement was also taken apart and cleaned. All the bushings and pivots were in good condition. One of the jeweled pallets needed to be adjusted and reset with shellac.
Trim pieces in place
It took about a week to get this beauty all back together and running again, but it was worth the effort to see it ticking away and keeping great time.
Thank you Bob. A most impressive clock.
The jeweled pallets are made from garnet, a precious stone consisting of a deep red vitreous silicate mineral. Here is an interesting 1905 catalog showing Ansonia’s collection of crystal regulators. Page 24 shows the Marquis with a price increase to $41.80. As Bob pointed out, a hefty price for a clock in its time.
These three 30 hour clocks in the opening photo were serviced in the fall of 2018. The fourth (shown next) is a Waterbury Ogee from about 1870.
It was never my intention to collect 30-hour clocks but I am attracted to this style of clock. Thousands were made, they are surprisingly cheap and come up often on online for-sale sites. Many have the cases that have suffered the ravages of time though these are in very good condition. However, buyers and collectors tend to stay away from 1-day clocks because of the hassle of winding them every day.
I marvel at the engineering and innovative technology of clocks made over 150 years ago and how popular these clocks were in their day.
Waterbury 30-hour Ogee clock
On the left in the opening photo (and below) is a George H Clark, pre-1850. It features a Jerome-like movement and a wood dial.
George H. Clark 30 hour Ogee
All of the clocks on this page have similar movements to this Jerome
Touch-ups to nicks and scratches were all that were required to improve the look of the case but the movement required a good cleaning as well as a couple of bushings.
The middle clock (also seen below) is a Chauncey Jerome Ogee clock. The label dates the clock to about 1855-56 just prior to the company’s bankruptcy.
Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee clock
Eight bushings were installed on this clock. Some of these clocks need a lot of work while others require a good cleaning.
On the far right (and blow) is a Sperry and Shaw 30 hour New York style 4 column shelf clock. The movement was disassembled and cleaned but did not require bushing work. The case was also freshened up.
Sperry & Shaw 4 column clock with a Canada Clock Co 30-hour steeple to the right
I am fascinated with 30 hour clocks. Yes, they require winding every day but I enjoy it and it has become one of my daily rituals. The sound of the gong is not particularly pretty but it is distinctive. You always know when an Ogee clock is striking in a house.
What other mechanical devices keep running after 150+ years?
This Gilbert tambour style mantel clock is model 2038 with a bim-bam strike or what Gilbert called a Normandy chime. The model number along with the words “Normandy Chime” are stamped on the bottom of the case. Gilbert called this the “Normandy Chime” as it was reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy (Corneville) in France. In terms of nomenclature within clock circles, calling it a “Chime” certainly adds to the confusion as this would be considered a striking clock rather than a chiming one.
Whoever did the past bushing work chose to avoid the motion works area, and for good reason
The Movement
And now to service the movement.
Dis-assembly of the movement is done in the conventional manner with the exception of two items. Both the striking disk (upper arrow) which runs off the cam wheel and the passing strike L bracket (lower arrow) which runs off the centre cannon are friction fit and must be pulled off beforehand to work on the movement. I don’t have a puller but two small screwdrivers positioned across from each other will lift the parts off with minimal effort. Do not polish the ends of these two rear pivots.
Arrows showing striking disk and passing strike L bracket
A prior examination of the movement revealed that it is generally good shape. Overall, the lantern pinions are in good condition with minimal wear. There has been extensive bushing work completed in the past. I see six replacement bushings on the back plate and seven on the front for a total of thirteen which suggests that there was a lot of wear. They are all in very good condition which tells me that the work was done fairly recently.
It also tells me that whoever did the past bushing work chose to avoid the motion works area and for two reasons. It is a tough one to fix because there is so little brass to work with and there is not a lot of torque on this wheel so it can be left as-is.
Although the following photo does not show it well, there is a lot of play in the bushing hole. This is the only one that is addressed in this servicing because I wanted to ensure good meshing of the motion works gears.
Motion works gear with bushing wear
To address the motion works bushing I sought advice from my colleagues at the NAWCC forum site with comments ranging from doing nothing to immediate replacement. The best advice came from a member who suggested I install a smaller diameter bushing and broach out the hole to fit the pivot and that is exactly what I did. A #46 Bergeon bushing was chosen with a diameter of 3mm and an inside diameter of 1.30mm. The pivot is 1.48mm and the result is a side wall that is about 0.80mm. This should allow the gear to mesh nicely and since there is not a lot of torque on this gear the fix should last a long time.
Re-assembling was straightforward. There are no helper springs on this movement so there was no tension pushing on the levers. The only adjustment I had to make was to pull the movement slightly apart to correctly align the stop pin to the stop lever so that the movement strikes as it should.
Arrow showing stop pin (my healing thumbnail from a mainspring that let go)
Since the movement has a Normandy chime the striking hammers are located outside and to the bottom of the movement.
Striking hammer assembly for Normandy Chime
The final process in re-assembly is to attach the hammer mechanism. But before doing so two parts are re-attached, the strike wheel and the L bracket which are pushed back into place. Once in place they can be moved slightly to sync the hourly and half hour strike.
Some folks give Gilbert movements a bad rap but they are not much different than a Sessions, or similar inexpensive movement of that period and the fact that this one is still functioning after over 90 years has to say something for its engineering.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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