For 27 years, a piano made in Montreal, Canada in 1911 occupied a silent corner of our living room, a relic of bygone days. Years ago we inherited the piano when my wife’s parents downsized from their larger home to a smaller one. They did not want it then and we do not want it now!
Willis upright piano C.1911
Over the years the dust settled on its keys, it was seldom played and its once-grand presence faded into the background of our lives. In the fall of 2023, we made a decision to repurpose the room it was in and it and other pieces of furniture unfortunately had to go.
Despite numerous attempts over several months to find it a new home or a willing buyer, the piano remained an unwanted fixture, a stubborn reminder of the past. We contemplated tuning the piano and refinishing the cabinet, but the restoration far exceeded its actual value. And then, what use would it serve!
The beginning stage of dismantling the piano
Faced with the inevitability of its disposal, we decided to dismantle the piano, a task that turned out to be more challenging than expected. Disassembling it isn’t as straightforward as using a sledgehammer to smash it apart; it requires a systematic approach, considering which parts to remove first to access other sections. And, its considerable weight made the task of shifting it even a few inches from the wall a truly herculean effort.
As we hammered, pried apart, and unscrewed the piano over the course of four days, we expected to feel a mix of emotions, but nostalgia didn’t hit us as we thought it would.
The piano, once the center of musical gatherings, was scattered into hundreds of pieces destined for new purposes. We salvaged pieces of the aged mahogany veneered wood that would be useful for future projects.
Sections are set aside for future repurposing
All metal parts, the cast iron frame, piano wire, nuts, bolts, screws (and there are a lot), and every other bit of metal were donated to a local recycler who happily came by with his aged pickup truck to collect the pieces. What we could not keep or donate was sent to the curb as trash.
There are more parts than you can imagine on an old piano
Among the salvaged wood, a particular piece caught our attention. It was perfect as a clock shelf and it required no trimming or cutting.
A reclaimed shelf
As we affixed the reclaimed wood to the basement wall, our shelf now held several antique clocks, each with its own unique character. The irony of a 110-year-old discarded piano giving life to a shelf that now held clocks of varying ages, some younger than the shelf itself was not lost on us.
Displayed on the shelf from left to right is a Jerome & Company round top, a mantel clock from the Hamburg American Clock Company (HAC), a Seth Thomas marriage (the movement (ST) and case are from different makers), an E.N. Welch clock with alarm function, and another HAC from Germany. All are 8-day time and strike clocks and in top running condition.
Five mantel clocks
In the basement’s hushed atmosphere, the clocks ticked in sync with the faint echoes of the piano’s past, forming a connection between the past and present.
In the heart of North End Halifax, on December 6, 1917, a Junghans Crispi clock fell off a wall in a house on Princess Court. Unbeknownst to it, this simple clock would become a silent witness to one of the worst man-made disasters in Canadian history – the Halifax Explosion.
The cloud produced by the explosion
As the Belgian relief ship Imo collided with the French munitions vessel Mont-Blanc, a catastrophic event unfolded in Halifax’s harbour. The explosion at 9:04:35 a.m. reshaped the landscape, claiming 2,000 lives with 9,000 injured, and left an indelible mark on Halifax’s history.
Since some case parts were missing, a catalog image of the clock served as a helpful referenceHow the clock was received
Fast forward to 2017, a century later, and the remnants of that clock found their way into my hands. The following journey is about a box of clock parts, carefully preserved by a family for generations, passing through to a new owner to be revived and displayed as a connection to history.
The movement was very dirty but intact
The task of reviving the clock, and turning it into a connection to history is a process that took over two months.
The restoration unfolded step by step. The clock parts were carefully cleaned, new parts were fashioned, and the correct materials were found to restore the Junghans Crispi wall clock to renewed glory. The hands, frozen since that fateful day, started moving again – a symbol of human resilience.
The restored Junghans Crispi wall clock was finally unveiled in late 2017 and has been ticking away and gracing the wall of our dining room ever since then. Its polished wooden frame, bold brass accents, and rhythmic ticking resonated with the shared history of a city and a clock that refused to succumb to the ravages of time.
As we mark the 107th anniversary of the Halifax Explosion, my Junghans Crispi wall clock stands as a symbol of resilience, remembrance, and the power of restoration.
In the quiet corners of North End Halifax, it tells a story that transcends time – a tale of survival, renewal, and the enduring spirit of a community that rebuilt itself from that terrible moment.
During the early stages of the Industrial Revolution, a peculiar practice persisted well into the 20th century. This era predated the availability of affordable and reliable alarm clocks, leading to a reliance on professions that we may find unconventional today.
One such profession was that of the “knocker-upper.” The primary responsibility of the knocker-upper was to ensure people arrived at work punctually. This occupation thrived in the industrial hubs of England and Scotland, where many individuals couldn’t afford personal timekeeping devices.
This practice lasted well into the 1940s
Knocker-uppers were often women, the elderly, or occasionally police constables seeking extra income. Armed with a long stick, they would tap on bedroom windows and swiftly move on to the next client without lingering. Some employed alternative methods such as rattles, soft hammers, or even pea shooters to rouse their clients from slumber.
An early 20th-century Seth Thomas alarm clock
The challenge for the knocker-upper was to have as many customers as possible in as small a circle as possible and to cover ground as quickly as possible in the morning. It became a sprint race in the morning and the more agile you were the more customers you had.
The service costs but pennies per customer per week.
Today if someone knocked on our window in the morning you would be understandably alarmed but back in the old days it was the only way workers could be roused in the morning so that they could get to work on time.
Of course, the question remains; who knocked up the knocker uppers?
In this post, I describe an unusual issue when relocating my mini Vienna Regulator clock. Out of all my clocks, this one tends to be the most sensitive when I move it to a different location in my home. I’ve previously shared my experiences with this clock because it’s not the first time I’ve encountered issues.
Medium-sized Vienna Regulator C.1870
Exploring a brief history of Vienna Regulators provides insight into why this clock is a significant milestone in horological evolution.
The Vienna Regulator clock, also known as the Vienna wall clock, is a type of precision pendulum clock that originated in Vienna, Austria.
The style and craftsmanship of Vienna Regulator clocks are often associated with exceptional quality and precision.
The development of the Vienna Regulator clock was influenced by several factors. One of the key factors was the rising demand for accurate timekeeping during the Industrial Revolution. Vienna, as a center of craftsmanship and technological innovation, played a vital role in meeting this demand.
Vienna regulators are distinctive and typically have a slender wooden case, which houses the pendulum and the clock mechanism. This design allowed for a longer pendulum, resulting in greater accuracy. The movement was typically attached to a frame on the backboard of the case by a keyhole design which allowed the movement to be lifted and removed from the case for servicing. The pendulum was often enclosed in a glass door or window, allowing the movement to be admired from the front and side panels while protecting it from dust.
Vienna Regulator dial
The cases, made of various types of wood such as walnut, oak, or mahogany, were often finely crafted with decorative inlays, carvings, or veneers. The clocks featured a white enamel or porcelain dial, usually adorned with Roman numerals and ornate hands.
The movement of the Vienna Regulator clock was powered by weights suspended on cables or cords. The weights (up to three) were typically wound up once a week, providing the necessary power for the clock to run accurately. While the majority of these clocks were designed to operate as 8-day runners, some were specifically engineered to run for 30 days and longer.
During the 19th century, the Vienna Regulator clock underwent several design changes. The earlier models, known as “Vienna Regulators of the Biedermeier period,” were characterized by a simpler and more classical style. Later models, influenced by the emerging Victorian and Rococo revival styles, featured more elaborate ornamentation and decorative elements.
While the popularity of the Vienna Regulator clock declined in the early 20th century with the advent of more modern clocks, it remains valued by collectors and enthusiasts today.
It’s also worth noting that the term “Vienna Regulator” typically denotes a clock style commonly manufactured in Germany and Austria from approximately 1804 to the end of the 19th century, even if it wasn’t necessarily crafted in Vienna.
But let’s go on.
What is making this clock stop?
During an unusually cold winter day, a substantial plumbing problem caused significant leakage from a ceiling pipe in our family room. To address the damage, we had to replace the pipes and patch the ceiling. During the repairs, we decided to refresh the room’s decor, taking the opportunity to make a few changes. As part of the update, we moved our Vienna Regulator clock from upstairs to the family room to showcase its elegance.
After running flawlessly for a few days, the clock stopped. I checked the clock’s beat, adjusted it, and confirmed its proper vertical orientation. This resulted in the clock running for a few hours before encountering another stoppage.
Suspecting a tangled cable issue which could cause a loss of power to the movement, I took the movement out of its case and carefully rewound the cable onto its take-up reel but this did not resolve the issue.
Could the problem be related to wear? I removed the movement from its case and disassembled it, inspecting for any signs of wear including bent arbors, or damaged or worn teeth. However, I found no such issues. In fact, the movement looked very clean, and the oil in the pivots appeared to be in excellent condition.
Vienna regulator movement, very clean with no issues
After reinstalling the movement into its case and reattaching the weight and pendulum, I noticed a slight wobble in the pendulum, that was not visible from afar.
Out comes the movement which consisted of removing the weight and unhooking it from the frame posts. Upon reexamining the movement, everything appeared to be in proper order. In most clock movements the suspension spring is physically attached to the movement. In clocks of this type, the pendulum rod is attached by the suspension spring to the backboard frame, and there could be a tendency to overlook inspecting the suspension spring as the cause of the stoppage.
This time, the problem was identified as a slightly kinked suspension spring. Lacking a spare, instead of replacing it, I removed the pendulum assembly from its case and used the shaft section of a small screwdriver to smooth out the kink. A temporary fix, to be sure, till I source the correct spring for this clock.
Some clocks can be temperamental and a clock that works fine in one location may not work in another. However, it would appear that moving the clock from one location to another caused a deformity in the suspension spring. So, the fault was mine.
After smoothing out the suspension spring it runs better
My other Vienna Regulator keeps ticking without a hitch, unlike this clock which tends to act up when moved. It’s running fine now and will stay at its new location which is back upstairs.
Dropping in Facebook Marketplace from time to time is interesting because there’s always the possibility that an unknowing seller might list an antique clock without realizing its true value. Occasionally, I strike gold, however, the majority of listings mainly feature commonplace antique clocks, alongside an overwhelming abundance of quartz-driven ones.
Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock
On any typical day, it’s a common occurrence for me to find more than half a dozen 31-day clocks available for sale.
What is a 31-day clock
A 31-day clock is a type of mechanical clock that runs for about a month before it needs to be wound up again. It has a pendulum that swings back and forth to regulate the time. The name 31-day clock comes from the fact that it can operate for 31 days without stopping, but some clocks may run for a few days more or less depending on their level of wear.
A Chinese-made 31-day clockconverted to a quartz movement
A significant number of these clocks are designed as spring-driven time-and-strike models, meaning they strike every half-hour announcing the time on the hour.
Most 31-day clocks originate from China or Korea, with trade names such as Citizen (not to be confused with the watch company), Daniel Dakota, Alaron, Olympia, Sabre, Beacon, and well, the list goes on. Directional arrows near the winding arbours typically give away the origin of the clock, with a common association being Chinese or Korean manufacture.
The hallmark features of a 31-day movement are powerful mainsprings and thin plates
Acquiring a vintage 31-day wall clock manufactured in China or Korea will not set you back very much. These clocks were and still are widely available since they were produced in massive quantities during the 1960s through to the 1980s. It is a safe bet that a vast majority, around 99%, have never seen the inside of a clock repair shop. Their inexpensive movements appear remarkably resilient, enduring for long periods and finally meeting an unceremonious end in the trash or, popping up on online for-sale sites such as Facebook Marketplace.
Clockmakers typically prefer to avoid servicing these clocks and may encourage you to swap out the mechanical movement for a quartz one if the clock is not functioning. This is primarily due to the powerful and potentially hazardous mainsprings in 31-day clocks, which make working on them a risky task. Secondly, these clocks have such low value that any maintenance, even basic oiling, will cost many times more than the clock is actually worth. Thirdly, replacement parts are impossible to find and any repairs necessitate salvaging components from similar movements. Indeed, converting them to quartz movements is not such a bad idea.
The Distinction Between 31-day and 30-day clock
31-day clocks should not be confused with antique 30-day clocks, such as those produced over a century ago by companies like Seth Thomas, Welch, Waterbury, and makers of 30-day Vienna Regulators.
The latter boasted sturdy movements with deadbeat escapements, large cases, and dials, and a significant number were powered by weights. These clocks were more accurate than the average domestic clock of the time and were often found in public places such as post offices, libraries, business offices, retail establishments, and factories. Unlike 31-day clocks, collectors find these clocks desirable.
If you are fortunate enough to come across a 31-day clock at a remarkably low price, it’s important to temper expectations regarding its resale value. Despite being budget-friendly acquisitions, these clocks typically don’t appreciate significantly in value, and it’s wise to view them more as charming additions to your collection rather than lucrative investments.
In the past two weeks, my focus has been directed towards the servicing of a Junghans roundtop mantel clock. This particular time and strike mantel clock is the Hunsruck model manufactured in the second half of 1913 (stamped B13 on the rear plate). For first impressions and background information about the clock itself, you can go here. For a description of mainspring servicing, you can find that article here.
Junghans Hunsruck mantel clock C.1913
During this part of the servicing process, my attention will be focused on bushing work, reassembly (with some tips), final testing, and addressing the condition of the case.
Back of movement showing strike block and pendulum
My initial assessment revealed that the movement was generally in good condition. While some previous work had been done on it, limited to a basic cleaning, no substantial repairs were evident. Nevertheless, a conspicuous buildup of dirty oil was observed in most pivot holes, underscoring the need for a good cleaning.
Avoid using a taper pin for this lever (see arrow), as it would result in the lever being excessively tight; opt for a thin wire instead
Upon closer inspection, elongated pivot holes in three locations told me that new bushings were necessary: specifically, the third wheel time side, back plate, and both the front and back plates of the star wheel. The star wheel runs off the count wheel and it is the star points that move the tail that activates the hammer to produce the strike on the half hour.
The pivot holes were carefully cleaned out using toothpicks as the first step in the cleaning process. Subsequently, I examined the pivots on each wheel by running a fingernail across them to detect any ridges or imperfections, and they appeared to be in excellent condition. I also verified the integrity of the pins in each lantern pinion. Upon confirming that I had addressed all that I could at this point, the next phase involved cleaning the components in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Once everything was out of the ultrasonic cleaner all components were thoroughly dried to remove all traces of residual moisture.
Now to address the worn pivot holes.
A centering bit ensures an accurate cut
If you are accustomed to handling traditional time-and-strike American clocks, the small pivots on these German clocks might cause some unease. The diameter of each bushing measures just 2.47mm (Bergeon bushing size), whereas conventional bushings for an American clock are often 3.47mm and larger (again, Bergeon-sized bushings).
In the above photo, I use a centering bit to ensure a precise cut into the plate so that the bushing can be seamlessly inserted.
To ensure a precise fit the newly installed bushings are reamed using a cutting broach, followed by smoothing with a broach and cleaning with a toothpick. After each new bushing is in place, the wheels are test-fitted to ensure they spin freely plus sufficient end shake.
Given the delicate nature of the pivots, handling each one requires careful attention, as a broken pivot and its repair can be a challenging and intricate task on a German clock.
After the bushings are installed the movement is reassembled. Before attaching the back plate, all wheels, and levers are positioned in their respective locations.
Wheels and levers are ready for the rear place
To avoid having to remove the back plate to make further adjustments after assembly addressing four specific items will ease the process;
the count lever paddle must be in one of the deep slots of the count wheel,
the cam lever must be on the flat section of the cam,
the hammer tail must be positioned between two points of the star wheel (otherwise the tail contacts a star point, and the hammer will be left in the raised position preventing further striking)
and the pin on the warning wheel must be in the 12 o’clock position to catch the warning lever.
In my experience, the hammer tail contacting one of the star points is the most common of annoyances and calls for parting the plates. It is worth noting that the levers on clock movements of this specific type are not adjustable so, bending a lever to fit is not possible.
Pivot locator
Utmost attention must be paid to moving the pivots carefully into their respective holes as the risk of a broken pivot is very high at this point in the process. A “pivot locator” is an indispensable tool for safely moving pivots into their holes while working on the movement.
The pendulum is placed such that it can be seen through the front glassportal
Prior to mounting on the test stand, the movement is oiled using Keystone pivot oil. As with oiling any clock, the maxim is “less is more”.
The testing phase is one of the most crucial parts of the process, providing a chance to make minor adjustments and regulate the movement. I routinely ensure that the movement goes through at least two or three operational cycles while mounted on the test stand. Once I am satisfied that the movement is running well and needs no further remediation it goes back into its case.
While the movement is being tested I generally address any issues regarding the case. Little needed to be done to this attractive oak-cased roundtop and a general cleaning with Murphy’s soap and an application of paste wax preserved its patina while sprucing up its appearance.
Servicing an antique clock not only respects its history but also keeps its mechanism working for future generations to appreciate.
Every time I climb the stairs to the upper level of our residence, I find myself in awe of the clock perched on the landing. Crafted in 1848, it likely ticked away the hours for years in an upper-middle-class Scottish household, possibly owned by a farmer or landholder.
Scottish tall-case clock, Circa 1848
These old tall case clocks, which were built to withstand the test of time, stand in contrast to the throwaway culture of the modern world. They evoke a connection to a slower-paced past, providing a sense of calm.
A prominent dial
In November 2023 my wife and I traveled to Halifax, Nova Scotia (Canada) for an overnight stay and dinner out at a lovely Italian restaurant on Spring Garden Road followed by a play at the Neptune Center for Performing Arts.
La Frasca restaurant, Halifax, Nova Scotia
Upon our check-in at Lord Nelson Hotel and Suites, I observed an old stately clock tucked into a corner and commented to the front desk about the surprise of encountering a fully functional antique tall-case clock in a hotel lobby.
Unknown tall case clock
It’s noteworthy that this establishment, renowned for its classic allure, is recognized for serving a clientele that leans towards the more mature demographic, so an old antique clock did not seem out of place.
The clock face shows a three-train movement
Beyond their practical function, old clocks captivate us with their craftsmanship, and historical significance. They serve as links to the past, reflecting the artistry, engineering, and societal values of bygone eras. The mechanical simplicity offers a stark contrast to our complicated fast-paced digital age.
Life is not perfect. Why should our antique clocks be any different? As we grow older, our possessions undergo a similar transformation. Just as aging imparts a unique character to metal through oxidation and rust, the term “patina” extends beyond its common association with metallic items to antique objects generally. It encapsulates the idea that our belongings, over time, develop distinctive qualities that result from reactions to various elements and the passage of time.
Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple
Although the hands of a clock move forward no one has figured out how to freeze time or better yet, turn it backward.
During my initial foray into clock collecting and clock repair, my goal was to resurrect non-functional vintage or antique clocks, restoring both their cases and movements to their original state.
While I was tempted to make changes to the case to improve its presentation my priority has now shifted somewhat and lies in ensuring that the fundamental purpose of the clock—accurately telling the time—is fully realized. While addressing structural concerns like a broken backboard hindering the hanging of a wall clock is essential and demands attention, the case, imperfections and all, can be left in its original state.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock: has its character been lost through restoration?
The purpose of a clock was to serve the original owner in any manner they deemed suitable, primarily by functioning and accurately displaying the time. Any scratches or blemishes on the case were secondary considerations compared to the clock’s primary function of timekeeping. 100 years ago a clock for the family home served as a common reference point for coordinating daily activities. It helped family members synchronize their schedules for meals, work, and social events. Daily household routines, such as waking up, going to bed, and managing chores, were often organized around specific times. A functioning clock (and oftentimes the only clock) was fundamental for maintaining order and structure within the home.
It can also be said that certain clocks were regarded as furniture pieces, receiving the same attention in terms of dusting, waxing, and overall care as any other furnishings of that era. Clocks such as these have survived quite well in their original state and its history has not been washed away with alterations.
The real attraction to unrestored original items is a relatively new phenomenon, perhaps stemming from a response to our modern throwaway society where nothing seems to last. We can point to an old clock and say, that object has lasted all these years despite its age-related scars.
The dilemma of restoration, yes or no to refinishing this clock case?
But does something that takes on a surface appearance that has grown old become a thing of beauty? The answer is, yes. Every bit of patina on a clock speaks to something from its past, things that have happened to a clock through the ages whether you can see the cause or not and that makes the clock more interesting.
A clock that attempts to go back in time through restoration, no matter how good the job is, for all intents and purposes is a facsimile, a replica, or a reproduction. Many might consider all restoration as fiction. However, some folks will take fictitious or like-new any day because new-looking and shiny is somehow “better” and it is their belief that condition always equates to increased desirability.
George H. Clark 30-hourOgee, restored by theprevious owner; is like-new better?
The concept of patina extends beyond its traditional association with oxidized metal, offering a broader perspective on the aging and transformation of old clocks. Patina embodies a unique character that evolves over time. It reflects a growing interest in preserving the enduring quality of items, a sentiment that contrasts with the disposable nature of our modern society.
Last week I began working on a Junghans round top mantel clock. For first impressions and background information about the clock itself, you can find the article here.
During this segment of the maintenance process, my attention will be focused on the mainsprings.
Upon my initial assessment, it appeared that the movement was found to be in decent condition, overall. A noticeable accumulation of dirty oil in the majority of pivot holes told me that a thorough cleaning was necessary.
Junghans movement with the back plate removed
Upon closer inspection, elongated pivot holes in three locations tell me that new bushings need to be installed: specifically, on the third wheel time side, back plate, and both the front and back plates of the star wheel. The star wheel runs off the count wheel and it is the star points that activate the hammer for the strike.
But first, let’s focus on the mainsprings.
In my experience neglecting certain steps during clock servicing can result in potential future complications.
One side of the barrel is open
For example, there is a temptation to overlook the mainspring barrels, yet it becomes evident that unless one is confident about the absence of accumulated dirt and grime within the spring barrel, certainty can only be achieved through disassembly. Moreover, the open design of this particular barrel increases the likelihood of dirt penetrating the springs.
While mainsprings can be removed from their barrels by hand and subsequently coiled back in by hand, a mainspring winder, such as one made by Olie Baker, is an essential tool for the serious repairer.
Time side mainspring on an Olie Baker spring winder, an appropriately sized collar is on the right
Removing and reattaching the caps to any barrel can be quite cumbersome. With this particular barrel, a convenient and swift method involves using a small slotted screwdriver in one of the two small openings to easily pry open the cap.
A small slotted screwdriver is inserted in the opening to pry open the cap
The importance of wearing leather gloves for safety cannot be overstated.
Tightening the mainspring allows for the insertion of the collar
A firm grip on the barrel ensures a predictable and controlled process.
The collar is in placeand the spring can be let down and removed from the barrel
During the removal of the mainspring, a thorough inspection is conducted to identify potential issues such as stress cracks, unusual wear, pitting, and the accumulation of rust. Subsequently, the spring undergoes a meticulous cleaning process to eliminate any dirty oil, followed by reoiling, before being reintegrated into the barrel.
Reattaching the cap to the barrels can be accomplished by employing two small clamps to gently guide the cap into position.
Two clamps help to guide the cap in place
Once more, the use of gloves guarantees safety.
Upon proper placement, the cap will emit a distinctive “snap” sound.
Both mainsprings have been serviced and the barrels cleaned in the ultrasonic machine
The springs in this particular clock appeared to be in excellent condition and are suitable for reuse.
Meanwhile, it is essential to inspect the barrel teeth for signs of wear, particularly focusing on any bent or damaged teeth during this stage. Worn teeth may result from a spring that is too powerful and not correctly rated for this clock, while broken or bent teeth could be indicative of a mainspring failure.
Next, we proceed with the remainder of the maintenance for this time and strike clock, moving on with the polishing of pivots and bushing work. Join me in a few days as we continue the servicing of this Junghans movement.
During my recent exploration of Facebook Marketplace, I came across many clocks at a variety of price points. It was no surprise to find many options, ranging from reasonably priced ones to some that seemed somewhat overpriced. The listings included quartz mantel clocks from the 1970s and 80s, vintage Chinese clocks from the 60s, as well as the typical assortment of Bulova and Howard Miller mantel and grandfather clocks. Some clocks were marketed as antiques, though clearly, they did not meet the criteria. However, none of these caught my attention enough to warrant a closer inspection.
30-hour time and strike mantel clock, similar to the Gilbert clock
One clock piqued my curiosity – a Gilbert model that bore a striking resemblance to one already in my collection though by a different maker. The seller had priced it at $225 and provided detailed photos showcasing different angles, including a shot of the movement. Interestingly, the final photo displayed a screenshot from eBay, where the same clock was listed for a whopping $925 by a different seller. The intent of course was to make it seem that the seller’s clock was a bargain by comparison.
So, being curious, I ventured onto eBay and came across several intriguing listings. However, I noticed that some of these listings did not accurately represent the actual value of the clocks being sold.
For instance, there was a Sessions mission-style mantel clock listed at a staggering price of $1092. Personally, I find it hard to believe that any Sessions clock ever made could command such a high value. A New Haven mantel clock touted as “rare” and painted in a “modern eye-catching” blue shade, is listed at $341. However, the cost is further escalated by a $95 shipping fee, making it a rather expensive purchase.
To be fair, I did come across some clocks on eBay that were reasonably priced. However, in general, it is becoming increasingly common to find clocks listed at prices that don’t align with their true value.
So why is this happening?
There are a number of reasons, some of which are:
Sellers might overvalue their items, hoping to fetch a high price, especially if they believe their clock is rare or unique.
Inexperienced sellers might set prices based on misinformation about the item’s market worth, leading to an inflated listing.
Sellers may use misleading or exaggerated descriptions and photos, making the clock appear more valuable or rare than it actually is.
eBay’s algorithm might suggest prices based on historical data, including past listings where sellers may have inflated prices. This can create a cycle of high listings.
Established sellers with positive feedback may be able to command higher prices based on their reputation, even if the item’s value doesn’t align with the actual price.
And finally, some sellers might attach sentimental value to their clocks, leading them to set prices higher than what the market might dictate.
While sellers may set higher listing prices, what many shoppers may not undersatnd is that the realized price, the amount the item actually sells for, is what truly matters. It’s essential for buyers to assess the realized prices of similar items to gauge the market value accurately and make informed purchasing decisions.
Advice for buyers and sellers
Buy antique clocks locally if you can. When purchasing locally, you can physically inspect the clock, assess its condition, and verify its authenticity. This hands-on approach minimizes the risk of buying misrepresented or damaged items. Local purchases eliminate the need for shipping, which can be otherwise costly. Dealing face-to-face with a local seller provides an opportunity for negotiation.
A local purchase, a time-only Vienna Regulator
Personal interactions can often lead to better deals and a chance to learn more about the clock’s history from the seller. And finally, purchasing locally allows you to take your antique clock home immediately after the transaction, without waiting for shipping and delivery times.
For sellers, look for similar antique clocks online or in specialized antique shops to see what similar pieces are being sold for. This will give you a baseline for comparison. Auction houses often publish realized prices on items sold. They can also offer insights into the current market demand and the prices similar clocks have fetched at recent auctions.
Attending antique shows and fairs can provide an opportunity to see a wide variety of antique clocks and gauge their prices. You can also talk to dealers and collectors, gaining valuable knowledge from their expertise. Online marketplaces other than eBay, such as Etsy, or specialized antique platforms can give you an idea of what similar clocks are listed for.
Antique-related magazines and publications that feature clocks can provide insights into current trends, notable sales, and expert opinions.
Joining local or online antique collector’s clubs can connect you with enthusiasts and experts who have extensive knowledge about specific types of clocks. These communities often share information about recent sales and market trends.
By consulting these various sources, buyers and sellers can gather a comprehensive understanding of the antique clock market, enabling them to make informed decisions about pricing their items.
Online antique purchases can be fraught with potential problems but preparation and thorough research are always a benefit to both the buyer and the seller.
I first wrote aboutthis clock in April 2023 after having won it at auction. With so many other projects on the go, I can finally allocate time to focus on servicing this captivating German time and strike mantel clock.
Auction photo
The 1915 Junghans catalog identifies the clock as the Hunsruck, named after a mountain range in Germany, and provides its specifications as 28.5 cm in height with a mahogany or oak case construction, a 14-day run time, and a silvered dial. This clock is the mahogany cased model.
Junghans Hunsruck model
The movement is a time-and-strike design that was a hallmark feature of numerous Junghans mantel clocks during that period. I have one other Junghans mantel clock with an identical 151 movement.
Junghans Sydney with the 151 movement
The Junghans trademark is boldly showcased on the gong block and inscribed on the back of the movement. On the back plate, it is stamped B13 which denotes the movement as having been manufactured in the latter part of 1913.
Removing the movement from the case is relatively straightforward. The movement, which rests on a wooden support board is held in place by two rather large 1 1/8 inch wood screws. After taking the movement out of the case, two brass thumbscrews are removed to release the seat board.
Assessment
Upon my initial assessment, it appears that the movement is in decent condition, overall. However, there is a noticeable accumulation of dirty oil in the majority of pivot holes, indicating a thorough cleaning is necessary.
Junghans movement with the back plate removed
Upon closer inspection, elongated pivot holes in three locations tell me that new bushings need to be installed: specifically, on the third wheel time side, back plate, and both the front and back plates of the star wheel. The star wheel runs off the count wheel and it is the star points that activate the hammer for the strike.
I use toothpicks to carefully clean out the pivot holes before immersing the plates in the ultrasonic cleaner as part of my standard practice. With a soft cloth, I clean and inspect the pivots on each wheel using a fingernail across the pivot to check for ridges and imperfections. I then check the integrity of the pins in each of the lantern pinions. Once satisfied that the inspection is complete the next step is cleaning the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner.
I will pause here and resume next week with the continuation of servicing the Junghans type 151 clock movement, including details about the necessary bushing work. Additionally, I will provide insights into the case’s condition. Stay tuned for the conclusion!
Here are three commonly cited reasons for eliminating the cursed Daylight Savings Time convention:
One of the main arguments against daylight saving time is its impact on human health. The abrupt shift in the clock can disrupt people’s sleep patterns, leading to sleep deprivation and increased stress. Studies have shown a rise in heart attacks, strokes, and even car accidents in the days following the time change. By eliminating DST, people would maintain a more consistent sleep schedule, promoting better overall health and well-being.
A made-in-Canada Pequegnat clock from the 1920s
Critics argue that the practice of changing clocks twice a year imposes economic costs on businesses and individuals. The process of adjusting various devices, systems, and schedules can be time-consuming and costly. Moreover, the disrupted sleep patterns of employees can lead to decreased productivity in the workplace. By eliminating DST, businesses would avoid these costs and potentially see a boost in productivity due to a more rested workforce.
Canadain made ogee style clock
One of the original reasons for implementing daylight saving time was to conserve energy by making better use of natural daylight during the longer days of summer. However, with advancements in technology and changes in energy consumption patterns, the energy-saving argument is now considered outdated. Modern studies have shown that the energy savings from DST are marginal, if any, and in some cases, it might even lead to increased energy usage due to higher air conditioning demands on hot evenings. Therefore, proponents of eliminating DST argue that the energy conservation rationale no longer holds, making it unnecessary to continue the practice.
30-hour shelf clock from the USA
These arguments, among others, have fueled ongoing debates about the relevance and effectiveness of daylight saving time, leading to discussions and policy changes in various regions.
But not in Nova Scotia, Canada. Prepare to set your clocks backward on November 5th at 2:am.
In the first segment of this two-part series, I detailed the assessment process of this Sessions time-only movement, which can be accessed here. This article explores the next steps in the servicing of this clock movement. I will also offer in-depth observations regarding the case’s condition and comment on any additional issues that have emerged subsequent to the assessment phase.
Sessions Schoolhouse clock
Two years ago, I acquired this Sessions schoolhouse clock at an auction with the intention of adding it to my collection of similar 19-inch clocks. The purpose behind this acquisition was to create a set of “time zone” clocks, as my children are scattered across the country. This setup allows me to easily glance up and determine the time in their respective areas.
The back of the movement
In the initial assessment of the movement, I anticipated no significant surprises or wear due to the prior work done on it.
To disassemble for inspection, I removed the movement from the case. Using a let-down key, I restrained the mainspring with a C-clamp and then removed the 4 bolts holding the movement together. After taking out the mainspring, I inspected the remaining parts for wear. I observed slight elongated wear on the second wheel bushing hole but found no major issues requiring remediation. Further examination revealed minimal grime in the pivot holes and a lack of lubricating oil. Overall, the movement showed little wear.
And now, on to servicing the movement.
Using an emery board to polish the pivots
Using my Taig lathe I polished each of the pivots. Polishing methods may differ but I prefer to use a fine-grain emery board. Emery boards are affordable and ideal for the task at hand. I slide the emery board horizontally while the pivot rotates within the lathe and clean off any residue on the pivots with a soft cloth.
All components are immersed in the ultrasonic cleaner, and after approximately 15 minutes in the cleaning solution, the parts are removed and thoroughly dried using a gentle cloth and a hairdryer to eliminate any remaining water within the lantern pinions.
Since there’s no requirement for bushing work, the procedure remains straightforward, and the components are reassembled after the drying is completed.
Once all the parts are together the pivots, entrance & exit pallets, saddle pin, mainspring arbour, and crutch loop are oiled using Keystone clock oil.
After assembly, the movement undergoes a testing period, which may extend for days or even weeks. However, for this particular time-only movement, because of its simplicity, the testing duration is shorter.
The case and dial
The case is very well-preserved, devoid of the typical dents and marks often encountered on clocks from this time period. Cleaning with soap and water will suffice.
I only realized that the entire dial face, except for the chapter ring, had been repainted after I started loosening the screws for the dial bezel. I hadn’t noticed this previously and had assumed it was a replacement dial because it appeared to be in such good condition. Achieving this required a steady hand, and as a result, it looks very well done.
Repainted dial face
Despite the care and attention given to preserving the movement and case, it is noteworthy that the hands are incorrect. Sessions would have originally used solid spade hands instead of pierced ones, and, naturally, both the hour and minute hands are too short.
On the test stand
The test stand
While on the test stand, I had to make two adjustments to the recoil escapement. The entry and exit pallets were too far from the escape wheel which necessitated moving the saddle slightly in towards the escape wheel. This is the drop most often referred to and it can be visualized as the airspace between the leading corner of a tooth point and the part of the pallet it is about to fall on. The other is a crutch adjustment to bring the movement to the correct beat.
Two days on the testing stand prove to be adequate, and the final step involves reinstalling the movement back into its case.
Two years ago, I acquired this Sessions schoolhouse clock at an auction with the intention of adding it to my collection of similar 19-inch clocks. The purpose behind this acquisition was to create a set of “time zone” clocks, as my children are scattered across the country. This setup allows me to easily glance up and determine the time in their respective areas.
Three time zone clocks. The centre clock is the subject of this article
In this blog series, I will first guide readers through the assessment process, providing a detailed account of my findings. In the second part, the next blog article, I will walk you through the movement’s servicing and testing phase.
This clock belongs to the schoolhouse clock style. The origin of the name “schoolhouse clock” is not well-documented, and it appears that the term was not used during the time these clocks were made. Instead, it was later coined by collectors to describe a particular style of clock commonly found in school settings.
Sessions Drop Octagon bob
Schoolhouse clocks were the standard design for early North American schoolhouses due to their larger, easy-to-read dials. They were widely hung in schoolrooms across Canada and often had simple time-only movements, although some versions included a calendar function or time and strike movements. These clocks had a utilitarian look and were known for their durability.
The design of schoolhouse clocks is believed to be influenced by English drop dial fusee clocks, which were produced in the late 18th and 19th centuries. Drop dials closely resembled schoolhouse clocks and featured conical constructions with a chain or gut line pulled by a mainspring barrel, providing even power release for improved accuracy. Complicated movements such as these did not find their way into inexpensive mass-produced American and Canadian schoolhouse clocks.
Label on the back of the clock
However, not all of these clocks spent their lives in schoolhouses. The back label bears the stamp “Office,” indicating that in addition to school settings, these clocks were also used by small businesses in retail areas or in office settings.
Assessing the condition of the movement
The clock was in working order when I received it. When I removed the dial which is held by 4 brass screws I was delighted to find the movement to be very clean and in very good condition overall.
The movement has been worked on in the past as there are 2 new bushings on the back plate, the number 3 wheel, and the escape wheel bushing. On the front, one bushing on the escape wheel bridge was replaced.
In addition the click spring, both click and wire have been replaced. A note to those working on Sessions time-only and Sessions time and strike clocks from this era: it’s important to be aware of the company’s history of poorly designed click springs. Therefore, it’s not unexpected to find this one replaced.
Back of movement
The suspension spring and pendulum leader have also been replaced. The mainspring has the letters MB stamped on the arbour loop which leads me to believe that it may be a replacement. In all, the work was completed by a competent repairer, in my view.
There is no oil remaining in the pivot holes as the oil has dried up completely. Further running of this movement as-is is a recipe for accelerated wear. Finding the right balance is crucial when applying oil. Excessive oil can attract dust and dirt, transforming it into grinding paste, whereas too little can lead to premature drying of the pivots. In general, however, the old adage holds true: less is more!
Disassembly
In view of the work done on this movement in the past, I am not expecting any further surprises or appreciable wear as I disassemble the movement.
To disassemble the movement, first remove the movement from its case. There are 4 screws holding the movement to the backboard and once released the movement easily comes out. Using a let-down key, the mainspring is restrained by a C-clamp and the 4 bolts holding the movement together can be easily removed with a slotted screwdriver. The mainspring is then taken out after which a further inspection takes place.
Next, I check for wear by removing the mainspring and reattaching the top plate with all wheels, including the escape wheel, in place. By spinning the wheels I can visualize how each wheel interacts with the adjacent one. There were no surprises but there is very slight elongated wear on the second wheel bushing hole, back plate but not enough to be concerned about at this point.
Before cleaning the movement in the ultrasonic machine I begin by pegging the holes using toothpicks. My objective at this point is to determine how much dirt and grime are present in the pivot holes. Not surprisingly there was very little grime but again the absence of any lubricating oil. I then checked each pivot for unusual signs of wear and in the case of this movement, there was little, if any, wear.
Well, that is all for now.
An upcoming article will delve deeper into the ongoing process of servicing this clock movement. Additionally, I will provide insights into the condition of the case and address any other issues that might have surfaced during the assessment stage.
As the holiday season approaches, the search for a unique and meaningful gift becomes crucial. Antique or vintage clocks, often overlooked, can make a delightful and “timely” present. Whether you’re knowledgeable about clocks or a novice, finding the right one requires some understanding, and I’m here to provide you with some helpful pointers and explanations.
Why Buy an Antique or Vintage Clock?
People are drawn to antique or vintage clocks for sentimental reasons, the desire to own something antique, or the allure of a unique old mechanical clock. These reasons often top the list for those considering such a purchase.
Antique, Vintage or collectible
Determining the age of a clock can be tricky but a well-informed seller can confidently provide accurate information about the clock’s age to potential buyers, ensuring a fair and transparent transaction. Moreover, a clock’s age can often be determined through a date stamp on the movement or labels, providing accurate dating information for both sellers and buyers.
Generally, anything over 100 years old is considered antique, while vintage refers to items less than 100 years old but more than 30 years old. Items younger than 30 years are often called collectibles.
A Mauthe vintage clock from the 1940s
Types of Clocks: Mechanical or Otherwise
While there is a wide variety of clocks available, this article focuses on mechanical clocks both vintage and antique. Quartz clocks are common but have limited value. Electro-mechanical and electromagnetic clocks, while intriguing, are best left to expert collectors. Electric clocks from the 1930s and 1940s might intrigue the buyer but can be difficult to maintain and a non-functional clock can be potentially dangerous to those with a limited knowledge of electrical devices.
Choosing the Right Clock and Placement
Consider the available space when selecting a clock. Mantel clocks need shelves or tables, while wall clocks come in various sizes and styles and placement is less of a challenge. Although wall clocks require minimal space, some are hesitant to puncture a wall with a nail.
Ingraham Grecian shelf or mantel clock
Grandfather clocks (otherwise known in some circles as tall case, long case, and hall clocks), particularly those with impressive craftsmanship require ample floor space and a keen appreciation from the recipient.
Know the recipient if you are gifting a tall case clock
Furthermore, gifting a grandfather clock to an appreciative recipient ensures that it becomes a cherished heirloom, to be passed down through generations.
Cottage clocks, alarm clocks, and novelty clocks are compact, allowing them to fit into small spaces and be placed virtually anywhere.
This Sessions cottage clock is only 9 inches tall
Working or Non-Working Clock?
Ideally, a working clock recently serviced by a professional is the best choice and has the highest value. If a functional clock is used purely for decorative purposes, it can later be sold without affecting its value.
Sessions American No. 2, a working clock gifted as a decoration
If the clock serves a primarily decorative purpose, non-working ones can still be considered. Clocks as decorations often add a touch of vintage charm to a space, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. They can also evoke a sense of nostalgia, reminding individuals of days gone by. In addition, antique clocks with intricate designs can be conversation starters, becoming focal points in a room and reflecting the owner’s unique style and taste.
Tips for Clock Buying:
Give preference to clocks that are operational; they are typically better maintained and can be easily resold by the recipient.
Explore platforms like Facebook Marketplace, eBay, or local online sale sites. Opting for local transactions is favored because it eliminates the inconvenience of shipping, and meeting the seller in person provides the buyer with the flexibility to reconsider the purchase.
Common clocks such as mantel clocks from the 1930s and 1940s are affordably priced, while unique or rare pieces might come at a much higher cost. In the realm of clocks, the determining factor for pricing isn’t solely the age of the clock, whether it’s 120 years old or 50. Rarity plays a significant role in establishing the value of a clock instead.
Steer clear of clocks featuring directional arrows at the winding points; many of these are mass-produced Chinese clocks that come with powerful mainsprings, posing risks if they malfunction.
The clock’s manufacturer is only vital if you’re seeking an exceptionally unique piece and are willing to spend significantly; instead, concentrate on the overall quality of the clock and its visual appeal.
Conducting research is crucial to making a well-informed purchase decision. Examples are online resources, realized auction sales, networking, antique store visits, and books/publications.
Be wary of any alterations, as they not only impact the clock’s value but can also alter its historical and aesthetic integrity. Thoroughly understanding the clock’s originality through basic research ensures a more satisfying and meaningful purchase.
Whenever feasible, examine the clock in person to prevent unexpected disappointment. During the inspection, pay attention to the clock’s condition, checking for signs of wear, damage, or repairs. Examine the clock’s movement, and listen for any unusual sounds. Assess the quality of the materials and craftsmanship, ensuring they align with the stated age and value of the clock. Confirm the presence of any original parts, as replacement parts (hands, dial face, pendulum bob, etc.) can affect its authenticity and worth. Finally, if possible, request a demonstration of the clock in action to ensure it operates smoothly and accurately.
I hope these insights help you find the perfect clock for your special someone. I want to emphasize that I am not engaged in the business of selling clocks. Although I occasionally sell clocks locally, it’s solely to manage my personal collection and not as a commercial endeavor. Please be aware that I do not have clocks available for sale.
Recently, I acquired a gallery clock in exchange for another clock. I favour wall clocks over other types due to their convenient wall placement, eliminating the need for a shelf or mantel. Additionally, they tend to draw more attention compared to other clock varieties.
The clock I traded, a rare Canadian cottage clock, held significant value, but overall, I am content with the exchange.
Gilbert gallery clock
Gallery clocks are often called pub clocks, canteen clocks, or office clocks.
Gallery clocks are often found in public galleries and exhibition spaces, where they serve both functional and decorative purposes. They are usually placed on prominent walls and are designed to be easily visible to visitors. These clocks can vary in style, ranging from antique designs with Roman numerals to more modern and contemporary styles with sleek, minimalist features.
This time-only gallery-style clock made by the Gilbert Company of USA is nondescript and quite ordinary looking. There is nothing special or distinctive about it.
The casing of the clock is relatively light in weight and based on the wood’s coloration, it seems to be made of cherry wood. A previous owner meticulously refinished the case, and while the result is impressive, it appears almost too flawless.
The clock has a 12″ Arabic dial and is 16 1/2″ across with spade hour hand and minute hand with a heavy brass dial bezel. The dial is constructed from paper and lacks a metal backing, clearly indicating a cost-saving measure.
A 12-inch dial is considered the standard size for a gallery clock and a 12-inch dial would have been the maximum size for a domestic environment. I own a smaller 10″ gallery clock, crafted in England, equipped with a conventional spring-driven movement, specifically designed for placement in a compact office setting. Larger 14″ and 16″-inch” gallery clocks on the other hand would have been found in public areas, factories, and post offices.
At first glance, it’s easy to mistake this conventional spring-driven pendulum clock for a fusee clock. Upon closer inspection, however, its features set it apart from the traditional fusee clock, revealing its true identity as an ordinary mass-produced spring-driven time-only American-made clock.
Movement as seen from the trap door
The winding arbour sits just below the central cannon, and above the centre cannon, you’ll find the Gilbert trademark. Interestingly, the winding arbour is positioned in the same location as that of a typical fusee gallery clock.
This specific movement is present in other Gilbert time-only clocks and is almost identical to the one used in the Gilbert Admiral calendar clock.
Time-only movementGilbert Admiral with calendar
A trap door on the bottom provides access to the pendulum. When the clock is hung on the wall, attaching the pendulum to the pendulum rod is nearly impossible. I discovered that laying the clock on its back, attaching the pendulum bob to the hook, and then carefully mounting the clock on the wall is a slightly easier method.
The trap door opens to reveal the pendulum bob
The previous owner found the clock in Virginia and brought it to Canada. The clock was lacking its original glass, but a replacement was included as part of the exchange deal. In addition, the clock was completely serviced, one bushing hole was found to be enlarged and a new bushing was installed.
Two other gallery clocks
The two other gallery clocks in my collection are a clock with a 10″ dial made by a British maker, Empire, and a 12-inch (dial) fusee clock, maker unknown but likely British.
12 ” Fusee clock10″ gallery clock made in England by Empire
Given that the Gilbert clock underwent a thorough servicing and the missing glass was replaced, my only task remained to find a suitable spot to display it.
New owners of an antique or vintage clock might find it surprising that their recent purchase requires periodic maintenance. This realization often dawns upon them only when the clock stops, and they struggle to get it running again.
This Junghans wall clock, C.1899 is a daily runner
In this discussion, we explore regular clock maintenance, underscoring the importance of continuous inspection to ensure your clock enjoys a long and functional life.
Determining the ideal service interval of a running clock is a frequent topic of discussion among clock repairers, influenced by various factors that impact a clock’s lifespan. Factors include environment, age, frequency of use, manufacturers recommendations, complexity of the movement, user maintenance and cost of repairs.
Regular inspection
I conduct regular inspections of all clocks running continuously in my collection every 3-5 years, enabling me to pinpoint potential issues and remediate them if necessary.
Not all of my clocks are inspected on a regular basis. Among my collection of approximately 85 clocks, only a maximum of 27 clocks remain in continuous operation. Of the remaining ones, certain clocks may need specialized maintenance, are in various states of repair, some have fragile or rare parts, and others are reserved for special occasions.
Elisha Manross steeple clock from the 1830s
As an illustration of a clock that seldom runs, one of my clocks is a 30-hour time-and-strike Elisha Manross steeple clock dating back to the 1830s. This particular clock features brass mainsprings, making them irreplaceable if they were to break today.
Brass mainsprings
Clocks that occasionally stop signal a need for immediate attention. I look for any immediate issues that might have caused the stoppage otherwise I focus on identifying green or black residues around the pivots. Contaminants mixing with clock oil create an abrasive paste, damaging bushing holes and pivots and in time the wear will stop a clock. If a clock stops after running continuously for years it is more often than not a wear issue. Disassembling the movement is imperative, enabling a detailed assessment of wear and determining the extent of intervention.
When dealing with a non-functioning clock no matter what procedures you have taken to get it running, the first step involves a visual inspection to identify evident problems like broken or bent parts, as well as missing components. This leads to the next step which is called servicing. True clock servicing involves comprehensive disassembly, inspection, cleaning, addressing wear and damage issues, reassembly, and thorough testing.
Factors that affect wear
Several factors affect wear, with the local environment playing a pivotal role. Humidity and temperature fluctuations, especially in older homes or those with wood stoves, impact a clock’s performance. Dust and pet hair, infiltrating the movement, also accelerate wear.
Clock cases that are tightly sealed with access doors help alleviate these concerns, and a properly sealed clock will extend the intervals between servicing.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator runs continuously
Different types of clocks exhibit unique wear patterns. Spring-driven time and strike clocks often wear on strike side pivots more often than the time side due to the shock of the half-hour strike. Chiming clocks face additional challenges due to the complexity of the chime/strike sides, where dried oils and dirt cause friction, leading to eventual stops. Weight-driven clocks, especially if not correctly in beat or with twisted cables, may suffer premature stops and require thorough investigation.
A mechanical clock as a decoration
Many people appreciate the decorative allure of antique clocks and opt not to operate them, choosing instead to display them as decorative pieces. However, leaving a mechanical clock unused poses risks.
Time and the environment, rather than operation, cause the most damage. Unused clocks primarily suffer from the thickening of the oil over time and the eventual breakdown of that oil. On the other hand, dried-up oil provides no lubrication for the pivots and leads to accelerated wear. Excessive enlarging of the brass pivot holes by the steel pivots will eventually lead to depthing issues (depthing, which is the correct meshing of one gear in relation to the next is a topic beyond the scope of this article).
Parts left motionless often tend to fuse, and rust accumulates, particularly in humid environments. Although the majority of clocks possess brass plates that are resistant to rust, there is a significant portion of steel components in them that are susceptible to corrosion.
In addition, mainsprings frequently become stuck due to thickening oil, causing the spring to fuse in position.
Running the clock even occasionally such as once per month is essential, enhancing longevity.
Clock cases also need attention
While maintaining the clock movement in good condition is crucial, cleaning the antique clock case is also important for several reasons.
Firstly, a clean case enhances the overall appeal of the clock, showcasing its design and craftsmanship.
Secondly, regular cleaning prevents the buildup of dust, dirt, and grime.
Thirdly, cleaning the case helps preserve the wood or other materials, preventing cracking and blistering and ensuring its structural integrity. I apply Minwax furniture paste wax on certain surfaces to protect the finish and maintain its appearance.
A clean clock case showcases its design– Junghans Sydney mantel clockC.1913
Overall, cleaning the antique clock case ensures its longevity, functionality, and visual appeal, making it an essential aspect of proper clock maintenance.
Health check for clocks
In my controlled home environment, with stable temperature, low humidity, and no pets, I prioritize regular health checks for my clocks as a preventive measure. Yet, due to the controlled environment in my home, I can prolong service intervals to around 4-5 years.
Shorter periods are recommended for clocks in less controlled or fluctuating environments, ensuring timely maintenance and preserving the clock’s longevity. Utilizing an Excel spreadsheet, I meticulously record changes, service intervals, and issues for each clock in my collection.
My goal is to ensure every clock’s durability, preserving them for future generations, and potentially passing them (well, at least some) down to my children.
After attending the 2019 NAWCC (National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors) convention and participating in chapter meetings in Ottawa, Ontario, I’ve often wondered why there isn’t any NAWCC representation in the Maritime provinces of Canada – Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island. Surprisingly, there isn’t even an informal clock and watch club in these regions, affiliated or not with NAWCC.
The nearest NAWCC chapter is in Montreal, Canada, while Ontario alone boasts three active chapters. It’s surprising that there hasn’t been an active NAWCC chapter in the Maritime provinces.
I firmly believe that there are numerous clock enthusiasts (horologists) in my area of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and PEI (Canada) who would love to come together to share their passion, experiences, and expertise.
To clock lovers reading this blog worldwide who are interested in connecting with like-minded individuals, I encourage you to seek out persons in your local communities. But, if you reside in the Maritime provinces of Canada – Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island – I invite you to connect with me directly at ronjoiner@antiquevintageclock.com if you’re interested in discussing clocks and watches, sharing experiences, discussing repair techniques, or simply showcasing your collection.
An effort was made approximately three years ago to initiate a club; however, the ongoing pandemic prevented in-person meetings. The timing of the club’s launch might not have been ideal, and external circumstances such as geographical challenges might have made it difficult to meet. If the club had been established in Halifax, the most populous city in my home province of Nova Scotia, several challenges would have been mitigated.
Building a community of like-minded individuals can be challenging, especially if there are no existing networks or platforms to connect clock enthusiasts in the region.
Let’s make another attempt to come together! If our numbers grow and there’s enough interest, we can establish a club. Reach out, join the conversation, and let the allure of clocks and watches bring us all together.
And who knows, in the future, we might even explore the possibility of obtaining charter membership with NAWCC.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is dedicated to addressing readers’ letters and comments related to clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. In cases where the comments and questions are particularly challenging, I seek advice from my fellow clock enthusiasts to provide the most accurate and helpful response.
SS writes
Hi Ron. My name is SS
I’m writing from Quebec, Canada
My mother in law gave me this clock before she passed. A while ago.
I’ve been doing some research to see who would appreciate this clock and what is the value.
I’ve been looking on sites but I don’t see this original shape. I was wondering if it would be possible to give me an idea of the value and who to sell it too.
Thanks SS
Arthur Pequegnat fan-topRear of clock showing partial label
My Reply:
Thanks for your email, SS. I am just back from vacation and catching up on email queries, so, I apologize for the delay.
What you have is a clock made by the Pequegnat Clock Company of Kitchener Ontario. It is a clock that is part of their Maple Leaf series of kitchen clocks. Here is an article I wrote earlier this year describing clocks in the Maple Leaf series.
During its prime, the Seth Thomas company produced exquisite clocks, and in my view, clocks from the 1870s stand out as the pinnacle of their craftsmanship. This particular clock embodies the design aesthetics of its era, lending it a timeless and enduring appeal.
Seth Thomas round topwith its vibrant Rosewood case
The clock boasts a sizable round top design, measuring 15 inches in height, 10 inches in width at the base, and 4 inches in depth. Encased in a visually appealing Rosewood veneer, and it features a mirrored rectangular lower tablet. Some variants have clear glass, but the original design likely incorporated mirrored glass.
The wood grain is exceptionally bold and eye-catching. A missing sliver of veneer between the 9 and 12 o’clock positions on the bezel, which was absent when I acquired the clock in 2019 at an NAWCC clock convention in the United States, has been faithfully restored.
The clock’s distinctive charm is amplified by its unique stylized hands, adorned with an “S” on the minute hand and a “T” on the hour hand. The clock dial seems too well-preserved to be original although the replacement (?) dial displays the Seth Thomas trademark just below the centre cannon.
8-day Lyre movement tightly mounted in its case
What truly sets this clock apart is its elegant lyre 8-day time and strike spring-driven movement, accompanied by a bell gong with an alarm function. This movement, seemingly stuffed into the case, reveals its intricate workings when the dial mount is removed. The remarkable engineering of the movement is a testament to its adaptability, enabling it to be mounted in a wide variety of clock cases. Nevertheless, as mentioned, it is a tight fit.
The movement proudly bears the die-stamped inscription “S. Thomas, Plymouth Conn.” and is equipped withGeneva stops (or stop-works)for enhanced timekeeping accuracy, a feature often absent in many antique clocks of that period.
Unlike many contemporary clocks, the movement plates are held together with taper pins, reflecting a common practice of the era. The alarm mechanism, situated just below and to the left of the movement is wound by the small end of a double side key. There is an alarm adjustment wheel on the centre cannon with a cam that activates the alarm and once set runs the alarm spring down till the alarm stops which necessitates rewinding each night. The alarm emits a piercing shrill as it strikes the iron bell gong. As the average household had just one clock the sound of the alarm was designed to resonate throughout the entire home.
The movement is mounted on the back of the case using wooden blocks at the top and bottom. To access the movement, the rear panel must be unscrewed, revealing the internal workings.
8-day Lyre movement with Geneva stops
Inside the case, a well-preserved label declares, ”Spring Brass Eight Day Clocks”, “Made and Sold by Seth Thomas, Thomaston, Connecticut”. While slightly weathered in the lower right corner due to minor water staining, the label predominantly remains intact, adding good context to this attractive shelf clock.
After being stored away for 2 years, I recently dusted off the clock and applied a layer of Minwax finishing paste wax. The plan is to display the clock prominently in my home once again.
Undoubtedly, this simple time and strike clock with alarm stands out as one of the most captivating pieces in my collection, embodying the artistry and ingenuity of Seth Thomas clocks from the latter part of the 19th century.
In 2018, while exploring Ontario (Canada), I came across a Seth Thomas Regulator #2 in an antique shop in Bloomfield, just a short drive from Picton, a prominent center in Prince Edward County known for its numerous wineries.
I had my eye on this clock when I viewed it online over the summer and carefully contemplated the purchase before finally acquiring it in the fall of 2018. These clocks are somewhat rare to find, but the price was reasonable, and the clock itself was in very good condition.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
The Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was recognizable at one time as one of the most commonly seen regulator clocks in America. It graced many railway stations across both the US and Canada throughout the last century, a testament to its accuracy and reliability. It is a sturdy, precise, well-crafted timepiece that Seth Thomas produced from 1860 to 1950, an impressive 90-year production run. Few clocks can boast such longevity, making it an iconic American clock that every serious clock collector desires.
The design of the #2 remained largely unchanged over the years, but certain design characteristics can help in dating a specific clock. The identification guide below outlines characteristics of the dial and case that assist in estimating the year of manufacture. A clock colleague cautioned me against placing excessive trust in the chart, but I am satisfied with using rough estimates.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2 ID chart
With the exception of its distinctive base, most #2s produced after the earliest versions had the pendulum mounted in the rear. The chart also mentions a limited reissue in 1976. While the reissue is well-crafted and aesthetically pleasing, most Seth Thomas enthusiasts would argue that it doesn’t quite compare to an authentic Regulator #2, and the prices for these versions reflect that sentiment. Nevertheless, those who own the reissue appear to be satisfied with their acquisition.
According to the chart, my clock was likely made between 1922 and 1929. It features a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2, Arabic numerals, and spade hands. The bow tie connecting the wood dial bezel and the drop is a single piece (earlier versions had a three-piece bow tie). The clock has a second hand positioned 2 inches above the center cannon, but it’s not a true second hand; it runs off the escapement, taking 80 beats to complete a “minute.” Standing at 36 ½ inches tall, it’s veneered in mahogany.
The bottom right of the movement bears the stamp “77A” with the letter “K” beneath it, although it lacks other distinctive markings. Unlike some versions of the 77 movement that have lantern pinions, this one has cut pinions. Whether one type of pinion is better than the other is open to debate.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2 showing some marks on the face
As with any item nearly 100 years old, there were some issues with the clock. There is minor scuffing on the dial, no label, a finish that has lost its luster, and paint splatter on the top of the case (though not visible from most any angle). Taking down a clock while painting a room is a simple decision in my view, but some individuals prefer painting around it.
I transported this clock from Ontario to Nova Scotia by car, and removing the pendulum for transportation is not a straightforward process. If you are familiar with the pendulum arrangement on a typical weight-driven Vienna Regulator clock, this one is similar. Removing the weight is as simple as unhooking it from the cable wheel. Like Viennas, the pendulum is hung behind the movement, and both the weight and movement must be removed to access the pendulum since the pendulum must be removed for transport.
Seth Thomas #2 movement in place
The steps to remove the pendulum are as follows. First, the clock hands are removed. The minute hand is secured with a nut, which must be released. The second hand is a friction fit and can be pulled straight off.
There are eight small screws holding the dial in place. Once the dial is off, two larger screws on the wooden second-hand rail can be removed to access the movement. Four cylindrical column posts secure the movement in place; unscrewing them, starting with the bottom two, allows the movement to be lifted/pulled out. Once the movement is out, the pendulum can be unhooked from its suspension spring. The entire process takes less than five minutes.
The trapezoid 77A movement in this clock appeared clean when I first opened the case. There were signs of previous work, such as punch marks around some pivot holes, a common practice frowned upon today. The deadbeat escapement was in good condition and did not require adjustment. Otherwise, the movement looked to be in very good condition.
Seth Thomas #2 with escapement removed. Observe the numerous punch marks
Getting the clock to run reliably presented a challenge, and it took about a week to troubleshoot and resolve the issue. It eventually became clear that the issue lay in the positioning of the hands with the second hand obstructing the hour hand. I remounted the dial ensuring there was sufficient clearance between the second hand and the hour hand and it ran smoothly thereafter.
Regulating the clock is a relatively straightforward process, achieved by adjusting the rating nut on the bottom of the pendulum. This clock must be level and properly aligned to function correctly.
Time for servicing
In the spring of 2021, the clock began to stop intermittently. It would operate for 5-10 minutes before coming to a halt. I had replaced the suspension spring two weeks earlier and thought I had addressed the issue but clearly, I had not.
Seth Thomas #2 suspension spring
The clock’s apparent simplicity masks the tight tolerances it requires, and any signs of wear have the potential to cause the clock to cease functioning. Despite being a time-only movement with few gears I do not believe this is a good movement for the novice clock repairer.
I installed three bushings on the back plate; the second, and third wheels, and the escape wheel, and two on the front; third wheel, the escape wheel, and the verge pivot hole front plate.
Seth Thomas #2 movement
At the time I also discovered a slightly bent third-wheel arbour that did not take much effort to straighten.
While the movement was out of the case I replaced the maintaining power spring. I’m unsure if I’ve resolved the clunking sound the clock produced when I wound it previously because I now must turn the key crank in the opposite direction for a quarter turn to adjust the maintaining spring to avoid the clunk.
I also replaced the old cable with a 3/64-inch brass-weight cable. One aspect of the brass cable that I particularly appreciate is its nylon core, which prevents it from coiling. Polishing the pendulum bob and weight enhanced its overall appearance.
Since 2021 it has been running very well and keeping accurate time.
While these clocks were constructed robustly and designed for demanding environments, running for extended periods without the need for maintenance, there is still a requirement for periodic servicing. When I obtained the clock, it quite likely had gone without servicing for a considerable duration, and the maintenance performed in 2021 was certainly long overdue.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
Still, I am happy with the purchase of this clock. At present, it adorns the front hallway of our home, adding a touch of elegance to the entrance.
This clock is a splendid addition to our home’s front entrance, with a rich and storied history. While its exact whereabouts over the past 100 years remains a mystery, it remains a remarkable clock.
Why does a mechanical clock movement require servicing? The answer is quite straightforward. Maintaining your clock’s movement is essential to ensure it continues to function properly and extends its lifespan.
Regular servicing reduces wear and tear, ultimately preserving the clock’s functionality. Ideally, most clocks should undergo servicing every three to five years to maximize longevity.
Seth Thomas mantel clock C.1930
This article outlines the seven steps I typically follow when servicing an antique or vintage clock movement, using a common American, pendulum-driven movement as an example, Seth Thomas’s Type 86 8-day time and strike movement.
Step 1 – Initial Assessment: Upon receiving a clock, my first task is to determine if it runs. I assess whether it runs and strikes correctly and completes its full 8-day cycle. If it operates for fewer than 8 days, there may be an underlying power problem, which could stem from various factors like weakened mainsprings, worn bushing holes, bent arbours, and so on but more often than not a good cleaning will improve its run time even if there is some wear in the movement.
The movement is mounted to the front of the clock
Step 2 – Addressing non-running clocks: When the clock does not run, I conduct an examination to identify potential issues such as missing or broken components, bent wheel assemblies, and arbours, damaged or worn gear teeth, worn pinions, snapped mainsprings, and broken or broken clicks along with any missing parts like suspension springs or pendulum bobs.
Nevertheless, when all components are intact and the mainsprings appear to be in good condition, I take measures to ensure the clock is properly adjusted for an even beat.
I’ve observed that on many occasions, the mainsprings are wound tightly, and relieving this tension tends to address the problem (albeit temporarily), allowing the clock to operate relatively smoothly. However, if it stops running soon after starting, I note the problem areas and set it aside for servicing.
Step 3 – Disassembly and assessment: After removing the hands, dial face, and taking the movement out of the case (4 screws hold the type 86 in place), I conduct a thorough visual inspection. This step involves checking for damage, dirt, and excess oil, and determining the extent of cleaning required.
Type 86 time and strike movement
I use retaining clamps to safely secure the mainsprings’ power and then proceed with disassembling the movement. Disassembly includes removing outboard parts such as the crutch and suspension rod, releasing the four or five bolts holding the plates in place, and proceeding to remove the wheels and levers.
I assess wear in various areas, including pinions, pivot holes, arbor conditions, and connections between plates and pillars. I also look for tool marks and indications of previous servicing.
Step 4 – Cleaning the parts: Cleaning the clock movement parts is crucial, and I prefer using an ultrasonic cleaner. I use a mildalkaline, biodegradable degreaserconcentrate for cleaning. I organize the parts in compartments for easy identification, with strike parts separated from time-side parts.
Deox 007 is a concentrate.
For open-loop mainsprings such as the type 86, I detach them from the main wheel before cleaning. To guarantee that the mainwheels and springs are reinstalled in their original spots, I mark them with either “T” or “S” for clear identification.
Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R
Drying the parts promptly is vital to prevent rust formation. I use shop towels and a portable hair dryer to ensure all areas are dry. Lantern pinions tend to be especially difficult to dry and a hair dryer is an ideal tool to remove excess water.
After cleaning, I inspect the cleaning solution and, if suitable, reuse it.
Step 5 – Polishing pivots: The next step involves polishing the pivots. If the pivots are in good condition, a few passes with an emery board are sufficient. A small metal lathe is ideal but a portable drill will do.
Taig lathe with 1/4 hp motor
For pitted pivots, more aggressive cleaning and polishing may be necessary, and in extreme cases, pivot replacement may be required. Cleaning and wiping the pivots with a soft cloth is essential, followed by bushing if needed.
Step 6 – Bushing, broaching, and pegging pivot holes: I determine which pivot holes need bushing by assessing lateral pivot movement and marking each one (with a black marker) to be bushed.
Bergeon Bushing Machine
I use a Bergeon bushing machine known for its precise work. After making the bush hole, I clean it from chips and burrs, followed by broaching if necessary. In the process, bothcutting and smoothing broaches are used to ensure an optimum fit.
A hole is enlarged with acutter to accommodate a new bushing
All pivot holes are pegged with toothpicks until no residue remains.
Step 7 – Making necessary repairs: Other potential repairs include re-pivoting, straightening or replacing wheel teeth, sourcing parts, making new parts, and addressing issues with worn lantern pinions and escapement components.
Step 8 – Reassembly, testing, and adjustment: Finally, I reassemble the clock movement, carefully securing the gears and levers in place. I use a pivot locator to move the pivots to their correct location. Once reassembled, the movement goes through a testing process and adjustment on a test stand, ensuring it is in beat and properly regulated. This testing phase can take up to a month before returning the movement to its case.
A movement on a test stand. Attached is a microphone for a beat amplifier
In conclusion, servicing antique or vintage clocks significantly extends their lifespan. These seven steps provide a general guideline for clock movement servicing, though some steps may require further explanation, and individual procedures may vary among clockmakers.
If you’ve acquired a clock as a gift, through inheritance, from antique shopping, online purchases, or any other means, and it’s not functioning correctly, you have several choices in having it repaired.
Seth Thomas Adamantine mantel clock, C.1909
You might decide to try fixing the clock yourself, especially if it’s a simple or inexpensive clock. Basic tools and some luck might help with minor repairs or cleaning, but keep in mind that professional skills and patience are often required for clock restoration.
Repairing clocks is a specialized craft that takes years to master, and specialized equipment is often needed. For high-quality or rare clocks, it’s often best to trust a professional.
Ingraham Grecian, C.1872
Clock repair is becoming a rare and dwindling profession. Many clock repair businesses are closing as older experts retire, and there aren’t enough newcomers to continue the tradition. Finding a reputable clock repair person can be challenging and may require significant time and research.
Reputable clock repair establishments hire certified professionals who possess the expertise to handle a diverse array of clocks. Meanwhile, the availability of clock repair schools is decreasing, and there are fewer graduates, which leads to very few options in some areas.
McLachlan tall case clock, C.1848
Suppose you’ve made the decision to search for a clock repair specialist. In that case, here are some suggestions to consider in your quest.
Finding a Reputable Clock Repair Service:
Perform a Google search to determine if there is a clock repair shop in your immediate area.
Antique stores often have connections with reputable clock repair specialists. Attending antique fairs can also help you network with enthusiasts who can recommend experienced clock repair professionals.
Check with the Better Business Bureau to see if a repair shop is in good standing without complaints. If you find a potential clock repair service online, be sure to read reviews and testimonials from previous customers. This can provide valuable insights into their reputation and the quality of their work.
Join local NAWCC chapters or forums (joining is free) to connect with experienced horologists and seek guidance on finding a repair person in your area.
When contacting a clock repair specialist, don’t hesitate to ask for references from past clients. Speaking with satisfied customers can help you gauge their expertise and reliability.
Seek recommendations through word of mouth from people who have had their clocks repaired by reliable professionals.
Although not all watchmakers work on clocks, some may have the expertise or know of clock repair specialists in your area. Consider reaching out to watchmaking shops for referrals.
Contact local museums or historical societies that exhibit clocks. They often collaborate with or have connections to skilled clock restorers who can help maintain their collections.
Ensure that the repair person has the necessary qualifications and certifications, especially if you have a valuable or antique clock that requires delicate handling and expertise. You will feel more comfortable knowing it is in trusted hands.
If possible, visit the clock repair shop or specialist’s workshop in person. This gives you an opportunity to see their work environment, tools, and the types of clocks they are currently servicing.
Once you have found a clock repair individual get an estimate of how long the repair is expected to take. Complex repairs may require more time, so it is essential to have a realistic time frame in mind. Count on a turnaround time of months rather than weeks even for standard servicing.
Kienzle World Time clock, C.1951
Whether you’ve come into possession of a clock through various means, finding a skilled clock repair specialist is essential to restore your clock to its former glory. While attempting DIY repairs can be tempting for simpler clocks, the intricacies of clock mechanisms often demand the expertise of a professional.
Complicated repairs are beyond the scope of the do-it-yourselfer
By following these guidelines and conducting thorough research, you can locate a reputable clock repair specialist who will provide the care and attention your clock deserves, preserving its beauty and functionality for years to come.
You might be wondering whether or not your newly acquired 100-year-old clock requires maintenance even if it seems to be running well. The traditional saying “don’t fix what isn’t broken” may not be suitable for antique clocks because even a seemingly well-functioning clock may not disclose the full extent of its wear.
My first antique clock, Seth Thomas Adamantine C.1900
Many years ago mechanical clocks were quite prevalent. However, as electric clocks gained popularity in the 1930s, the mechanical clock industry began to decline. Many renowned American and Canadian clock manufacturers, such as Seth Thomas, Sessions, and Ansonia, simply disappeared by the mid-1950s.
Sessions electric clock C.1934
As electric clocks replaced mechanical ones in households, old mechanical clocks became decorative pieces, were stored away in attics, barns, and basements, or found their way to second-hand shops, antique malls, and flea markets. Consequently, the state and backstory of your clock may differ considerably based on the conditions under which it was stored after it stopped running.
Appearance tells a story
The external appearance of the clock and the level of care it has received can provide insights into its usage history. A heavily worn clock case often suggests that the clock movement inside has also experienced significant wear and tear.
On the other hand, a meticulously maintained clock case may house a movement that has enjoyed a lengthy lifespan and received consistent servicing over the years.
Both case and movement were in very good condition, George H. Clark 30-hour Ogee
Whether it has run a few months or several years, is difficult to determine precisely unless it has been examined carefully for wear. The answer is complex, primarily because determining the clock’s exact history and how often it has been serviced is not as straightforward as it seems. There are many variables at play and unless you are aware of the clock’s history unraveling its past by examining the extent of wear can be complex.
Inspect for wear
To assess the condition of your clock accurately, you must inspect the movement for signs of wear. Wear is a clear indicator of the clock’s condition and suggests how much time it has spent in operation without maintenance. Only by disassembling the movement can the full extent of wear be ascertained.
Rusted and worn movement, likely stored in a damp environment
Signs of wear could include worn bushings, worn bushing holes, punch marks adjacent to bushing holes, bent arbours, broken or repaired teeth on clock gears, broken or tired mainsprings, cracked pinions, loose clicks, excessive oiling, traces of solder as well as missing or damaged case pieces, and worn clock faces.
Date markings on the case or the movement that have been inscribed with a sharp tool or pencil provided evidence of when the clock was serviced. Marks such as these indicate that the clock has been serviced, though not necessarily always by a skilled professional.
Buying privately provides some assurances
It is highly unlikely that an antique mall dealer would have much information on a clock’s history as such sellers typically focus on the sale of items rather than their historical backgrounds.
Private sales of antique clocks can indeed offer valuable insights into their usage and history.
In private sales, you often have the opportunity to interact directly with the clock’s current or previous owners. They can provide firsthand information about the clock’s origin, how long it has been in their possession, and any maintenance or repairs it may have undergone.
A well-preserved E Ingraham Huron bought from a private seller
Antique clocks passed down through generations within a family may come with stories and documentation that shed light on their usage. Some private sales may include original documentation, such as purchase receipts, service records, or even old photographs featuring the clock. These documents can be invaluable in understanding the clock’s history.
Private buyers often have the opportunity to physically inspect the clock before purchase. This close examination can reveal wear patterns, repair marks, or other signs of usage and maintenance that might not be apparent in online listings or auctions.
Sellers of antique clocks in private sales are often enthusiasts or collectors themselves. They may possess an understanding of the clock’s history, design, and significance, which they are willing to share with prospective buyers.
A vintage Hermle wag on a wall clock that had been in the same family for generations
In some cases, private sales may come with provenance—a documented history of ownership and past sales. This can provide a clear lineage of the clock and offer valuable information about its previous owners and usage.
An amateur or professional repair
It’s important to distinguish between amateur and professional repairs. Amateur repairs are often quick fixes to get the clock running again and are usually visibly apparent. In contrast, professional repairs are thorough and aimed at extending the clock’s lifespan, with minimal visible alterations.
An amateur repair on a time and strike movement
In your search, you may come across clocks that have been serviced multiple times and others that have never received maintenance. Clocks in the latter category can range from heavily worn and non-functional to surprisingly well-preserved due to factors like limited use or professional servicing at regular intervals.
A regulating gear discovered after disassembly
You might come across clocks with multiple services or those never serviced yet still in good condition. While your 100-year-old clock may have run continuously, it likely underwent several servicing sessions, either by skilled professionals or enthusiasts. Conversely, some clocks in excellent condition may have seen minimal use, despite never receiving maintenance.
Punch marks used to close a bushing hole, not an acceptable practice today
While the complexity of assessing antique clocks’ wear can be daunting, it adds to the allure and fascination. Whether it has run continuously and been cared for throughout its life, or is one step closer to the garbage bin, each clock tells a unique story that adds to its charm.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is dedicated to addressing readers’ letters and comments related to clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. In cases where the comments and questions are particularly challenging, I seek advice from my fellow clock enthusiasts to provide the most accurate and helpful response.
SS writes “Hi, Ron. My name is S and I’m writing from Quebec Canada.
My mother-in-law gave me this clock before she passed a while ago.
I’ve been doing some research to see who would appreciate this clock and what its value is. I’ve been looking on sites but I don’t see this original shape. I was wondering if it would be possible to give me an idea of the value and who to sell it to.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple LeafThe rear of the clock shows a partial label
My reply
“Thanks for your email. I am just back from vacation and catching up on email queries, so, I apologize for the delay.
What you have is a clock made by the Pequegnat Clock Company of Kitchener, Ontario (Canada). It is a clock that is part of their well-regarded Maple Leaf series of kitchen clocks. Here is an article I wrote earlier this year describing clocks in the Maple Leaf series.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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