Mauthe (FMS) wall clock restoration – Part III – the case

This is Part III, the last of a three-part series on restoring this beautiful German FMS Mauthe wall clock. Part I can be found here. Part two can be found here.

This antique Victorian style German time and strike FMS Mauthe wall clock was purchased from a family living in Truro Nova Scotia that once resided in the town of Parrsboro over 100 years ago.

I have covered movement servicing in a previous article and now for case restoration. The case is part walnut veneer with softwood turns, frame and backboard, likely pine or poplar. All original wood surfaces were stained or lacquered to resemble walnut.

Time and a harsh environment have not been kind to this once majestic clock as the finish was in very poor condition. Stripping the case was my only option.

Mauthe crown, missing right finial
Base of clock

Stripping and staining were quite straightforward but time-consuming. After rubbing with steel wool I applied stain called Special Walnut, a light stain by Minwax which had the effect of enriching the grains even further. After the case was sanded I then applied 5 coats of shellac making the shellac in the traditional way with flakes and alcohol. I found a 1 lb cut ideal for this project.

The finish was probably the worst aligorating I have seen
Turned door column
Refinished corner section

As mentioned in a previous post, the movement was cleaned and two bushings were installed on the time side and one on the strike side. It was mounted in its case and has completed a successful testing period.

Although I was pleased with my work on the top door crosspiece, I could not find one clock online with a crosspiece similar to it from that period. Back to the drawing board!

Ogee style crosspiece on top of the front access door, stained to match case (later removed)

An Internet search for clocks of that style and period revealed that every clock had an arched top trim piece much like this Junghans Crispi wall clock from 1899.

Junghans Crispi wall clock
Junghans Crispi wall clock, restored in 2017

Making the arched top

Walnut veneer is preferred but I had to make do with oak plywood. Oak has a more pronounced grain but the end result looks good. Using a router I cut 3/16 inch oak veneered plywood into 2 curved pieces. Making a turn on a router is not as easy as it looks and it took me several attempts to get it right. After the 2 sections were cut (left, right and joining in the middle) I applied a darker walnut stain to match the case. I then covered the pieces with several coats of shellac then glued the two sections onto the top door frame.

The arched trim piece is an improvement and more in keeping with the design of the clock at that time.

Arched trim

The top finial was purchased from a supplier and stained to match the two lower finials.

The top final is new and stained to match the other two

Unfortunately, there is not much I can do about the darkened celluloid dial. Celluloid dials are almost impossible to clean. Replacement is an option but it would look out of place.

Celluloid dial with brass centre piece

The clock is now finished. The last step is regulating the movement.

The following is a breakdown of the costs & work completed:

Costs:

  • Purchase price $100
  • Amber shellac flakes, alcohol, brushes, containers – $75 (this cost will be spread over future projects)
  • Razor scraper for glass cleaning, $5
  • Finial $3
  • Furniture stripper $10
  • Suspension spring $4
  • 3/16 inch plywood $12.95
  • Corner doweling for the crown (left side) $6

TOTAL: $212.95

Traditional shellac is the only way to go

Work done:

  • Case stripped down to bare wood with furniture stripper, all surfaces except side frames
  • Sanded case
  • 1 coat of Minwax “Special” walnut stain which is lighter than dark walnut
  • 5 coats of shellac, 1 lb cut, rubbed with fine steel wool between coats.
  • Crosspiece for top of door fashioned from kitchen cabinet moulding, stained to match case, shellacked (later removed)
  • Arched top door insert made from 3/16″ oak veneered plywood, stained and shellacked
  • Adler gong and rails, cleaned & repainted
  • Beat plate cleaned and made flat, as flat as possible without damaging it!
  • Centre pan of dial face cleaned
  • Hands painted with flat black acrylic metal paint (2 coats)
  • New top centre “curtain rod” finial from Lee Valley, stained and shellacked, hole drilled for support post
  • Crown support rail constructed of softwood
  • Movement disassembled & cleaned in ultrasonic. Unable to remove the spring barrels. 3 bushings installed
  • Glass removed, scraped of shellac residue, cleaned and reinstalled. The residue told me that the case had been shellacked at least once in the past
The finished product

A satisfying project that resulted in the transformation of a clock that had been ignored for too long. its underlying beauty can finally be appreciated. Would I do things differently in the future? For the most part, no but there are some minor things I would approach in a different way. Case restoration is a learning process and each new project presents an interesting and unique challenge.

The clock has now been returned to its former glory and will now occupy a prominent location in my home.

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton wall clock

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton time-only wall clock

I discovered this Arthur Pequegnat Moncton in an antique store in Bloomfield, Ontario. I had my eye on it during a visit to the antique shop this past summer (2018), thought about it before taking the plunge later in the fall to buy it. These clocks do not come up very often and the price was right.

The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. made clocks in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) from 1904 until the company closed its doors in 1941. The clock firm was originally founded in 1903 by Saas & Ford but was purchased by Arthur Pequegnat the following year.

Canadian clock collectors are very familiar with the name and associate Arthur Pequegnat clocks with solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs and nationalism since many clocks were named after towns and cities in Canada. However, the use of city names began to decline in the late 1920s when models such as the Eclipse and Swan were introduced. Arthur Pequegnat also showed his patriotism to the Royal family and to Canada and therefore named a number of models, the Monarch, the King Edward, the Maple Leaf, the Dominion, the Canadian Time and so on.

Pendulum, beat plate & centre cut rounded bottom

Pequegnat made mantel, parlour clocks, as well as Mission, kitchen, gingerbread, tambour, wall, and floor models (hall clocks). In most households of the period, a clock was a decorative status symbol, not just a timepiece, and was displayed in a prominent place in the home—usually the parlour.

Prices increased over the period the Pequegnats were in business but ranged from four dollars for the Midget to seven dollars for the simple round Toronto model, to $112 for the Alberta floor model in mahogany. The wide variety of designs and relatively low prices appealed to many Canadians. Today, the appeal of these timepieces remains as Pequegnat clocks are sought after by Canadian collectors.

This, the Moncton, is the seventh Arthur Pequegnat clock in my collection. This clock is named after a city in the province of New Brunswick (Canada). It is only fitting that Pequegnat supplied clocks to the railway as Moncton was once a rail hub for the Canadian National Railway.

This clock is in good condition overall. It has a 12 inch Arabic dial with simple, bold numbers. The pierced spade hands are attractive and are a feature on many Pequegnat wall clocks. It has a fumed quarter-sawn oak case, is 35 inches high with a hinged 16 inch oak bezel door that swings to the right to reveal the dial. The drop door is 14 ½ inches high by 10 ¾ inches wide and also swings to the right. The clock is 5 inches deep with wall stabilizers on either side of the case. The pendulum bob is brass over iron with an oak pendulum rod. The dial glass appears to be original and has the “waviness” you would expect with glass that is over 80 years old.

View of lower case

Although the lower glass has the same waviness it appears to have been changed out early in the clocks life as the retaining rails look to be replacements. Unfortunately, it is missing the label. Other minor issues are a small scratch on the dial face that is visible when the light is right and a screw hole on the back panel just below the beat plate to secure the clock to the wall. Evidently the stabilizers were not used.

This clock was made after 1916. Those made prior to that date were inscribed “Berlin” (Ontario) on the dial. On 1 January 1917, anti-German sentiments in Canada during the First World War spurred residents of Berlin, Ontario to change the city’s name to Kitchener. This is the only definitive way of dating a Pequegnat clock so, this clock would be between 80 and 100 years old. The Moncton wall clock was manufactured almost as long as the company was in existence.

The Moncton is a 15-day time-only clock with two winding arbours on the dial face. This is achieved by means of two mainsprings both of which are wound at the beginning of the running cycle releasing their power together. Two other wall clocks, the Regina and the King Edward (variant) were also available with a 15-day double spring movement. However, unlike most spring driven clocks that have recoil escapements this movement has a Graham deadbeat escapement which contributes to its accuracy. The seconds hand is not a true second hand and runs off the escapement taking 80 beats to complete the “minute”. As a testament to its accuracy and dependability many of these clocks were ordered as train station clocks across Canada.

Two winding arbours for double spring time-only movement

The “Moncton” came in two basic styles. One was made for Canadian National Railways and was five centimeters (two inches) shorter than the regular model.  Some such as this one, were fitted with a seconds hand on a separate dial above the main hands. This feature is also found on the Regulator I which was Pequegnat’s most accurate model. The 1st Issue was 33 1/4 inches high by 15 1/2 inches wide with the  triangular bottom. The 2nd issue of the clock has a height of 33 1/4 inches and a width of 16 inches with a centre cut rounded bottom. The 2nd issue clock is also found with cases that measure 35 inches in height such as this one.

Moncton first issue, Roman Numeral dial

The “Moncton” was first featured in the 1913 catalogue and the again in the 1918, 1920 to 1925 Wall Clock catalogues and Pequegnat’s final catalogue put out in 1928.

The Moncton closely resembles the Seth Thomas #2 in size and shape down to the seconds hand, 80BPM and beat plate but unlike the #2, the Moncton is spring driven. The Moncton was an alternative to the #2 which was a well made American regulator but costlier and with a shorter running cycle.

Seth Thomas Regulator #2

The seller tells me that the clock came from the north of Toronto (Ontario) and apologized for not knowing more about its history. He has had it for about 1 ½ years.

I removed the dial to inspect the movement. As expected it is large and heavy with solid plates mounted to an iron frame. It is not difficult to see that it was designed to be rugged and dependable. I did not check the back plate but judging from what I see on the front plate there appears to be little wear. The first wheel on the right side is the only one that has a newer bushing. Given its condition it was well cared for and did not have a hard life.

Large and heavy time-only movement

This clock has been on my wish list for some time.”Monctons” are up for sale from time to time, but they are getting harder to find. I have seen examples come and go but this one is in great shape and the time was right to add it to my collection.

 

Mauthe (FMS) wall clock restoration – Part II – servicing the movement

This is Part II of a three part series on restoring this beautiful German FMS Mauthe (Friedrich Mauthe Schwenningen) wall clock. Part I can be found here. Part III, in a week or so, will cover case repairs and refinishing.

This attractive antique Victorian style German FMS Mauthe wall clock was purchased locally from a family that once lived in the town of Parrsboro. Nova Scotia over 100 years ago.

Why would someone solder the minute hand to the arbour

In this post I will discuss servicing of the time and strike movement.

As I began taking off the dial I noticed that the minute hand had been soldered to the arbour. Not only that, it was in backwards. A taper pin should secure the minute hand, not solder. Using a butane torch I freed the hand. Once the hands are off, removing the dial requires pulling 4 pins from the support posts. Following that, the bottom rail, which is secured by two machine screws, is removed. Now to work on the movement.

Very dirty movement, in need for a good cleaning

Before we do that, let’s look at the numbers on the back plate. 105 is the number of beats per minute, 42 is the length of the pendulum rod in centimeters. The number 55006 is a patent number which was issued to Heinrich Kielmann (Ruhrort/Rhein) in 1890/1 and concerned the method of hanging the pendulum. The number 20934 refers to a production run but I have no idea what date is assigned to that number. The Adler gong has the FMS eagle on the block and from my research the eagle was placed on gongs going forward in 1898. Therefore, the clock is from about 1898 – 1905.

Coiled gong and gong block by Adler

The movement has not been serviced in some time. Expecting to see a significant amount of wear, I was pleased to discover the movement in generally good condition.

The pallets had little or no wear and the escape wheel likewise looked good. The pivots had very little wear and polished up nicely. There were 4 pivot holes that needed some degree of attention. I decided that two on the strike side were not so bad that they could wait but two others were quite worn, the centre wheel, front and the motion works wheel just above it. This is expected as these wheels carry most of the load from the mainsprings.

2 of 3 Bushings were installed for these pivots
The count wheel strike and motion works
After a 30 minute cleaning cycle the solution was quite dirty, in fact so dirty that I disposed of the solution

I take plenty of photos as an aid in helping me relocate the movement parts on reassembly. Sometimes the wheels on the strike and time side look similar. In the case of this movement there was no confusing which side the wheels should go.

I disassembled the movement and placed the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner. After a 30 minute cycle the solution was very dirty, in fact so dirty that I disposed of the solution (it is biodegradable). Reassembly was straightforward as most of the adjustments to the strike side occur outside the plates, unlike a typical American time and strike movement where there a myriad of levers and helper springs that seem to pop out when you you are trying your best to get everything set up between the plates.

As a side note, Mauthe did make time and strike movement with the count wheel located between the plates and with conventional wire levers.

The only critical adjustment is the stop wheel which has to be in the correct position otherwise the strike will not function correctly. Trial and error is needed to get this right but I set it correctly on the first attempt.

Stop pin on the strike train; positioning the stop pin upon reassembly is critical

Unfortunately, I do not have a test stand tall enough for this movement and the case was used to test the movement. The movement slides in and out on a set of rails making it relatively easy to make the necessary adjustments.

Cleaned, reassembled and installed in the case for testing.

One issue, a broken suspension spring. Could have been my handling of the movement or it was already broken. Nevertheless, my order from the supplier arrived and the spring has been replaced. Most clockmakers would agree that it is a good practice to replace the suspension spring as they weaken with age.

During testing the strike side was sluggish and would not engage from time to time. I attributed this to an enlarged pivot hole on the star wheel, back plate one of the two I noticed earlier. The new bushing was a very small #7 Bergeon at 0.80 mm (inside dimension) with very little margin for error. With the new bushing (a total of 3 for the movement) the strike side was still sluggish. After taking the movement apart again I found a slightly bent arbour on the second wheel of the strike side which I fdiscovered when I attached it to my lathe. Using a hollowed punch tool I straightened it out.

Broken suspension spring

The reassembled movement was oiled and mounted in the clock case. The recoil escapement is adjustable and a slight tweaking of the verge corrected the beat. After a few frustrating adjustments exacerbated by a bent arbour, the movement is running well after servicing.

Next, I will cover case refinishing for this fine old clock.

NOTE: After completing this project I designed and built an extension for my movement test stand to allow me to work on movements with long pendulums such as this one.

Grandfathers clock – the drop door, the movement and other things – Part IV

This is the fourth and final article on this curious and somewhat homely Waterbury time and strike schoolhouse clock. I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. Now that I have it what do I do with it.

It is a clock that had been passed down within the family and as you can see it went through a significant change. I thought about next steps and considered advice from friends and family. It came down to three options:

1) Do absolutely nothing, preserve it as-is and store it in a closet,

2) Discard the case out, buy a donor case and install the parts I have in the new case or,

3) Preserve it, that is, not change it in a significant way but make some cosmetic changes and have it run reliably.

The drop door, movement and other things

The next photo shows the clock after the glass bezel was installed, the dial face was refreshed and the case was given a coat of dark walnut stain (the number “IIII” has a reflection from an overhead light). You can still see the plywood and the nail heads but my objective was to clean it up, refresh and preserve the character of the homemade case.

Dark walnut stain, dial re-freshened and glass installed

The access drop door:

The clock requires an access door on the short drop, the opening is unsightly. As you can see in the photo above the cut-out is rough and a door will effectively hide it. Making a n access door is a simple project and will enhance the appearance of the case.

I have an old Ogee clock case that I use for any wooden parts required for clock projects. I cut a 1/4 inch piece and fashioned the door panel using a paper template for the dimensions. There are two panels which make up an inner and outer door sections.

First, I used paper as a template to draw the new door.

The template is a sheet of paper

I cut the inner and outer door panels using a table saw and sanded all sides.

Inner and outer door, cut and sanded

Next, using masking tape I taped one piece to the other. I positioned my hand in the drop area so the inner piece would be aligned correctly with the door panel.

Glue applied to both panels

Once the panels were aligned I removed the masking tape, gave the panels a final sanding, then applied yellow carpenters glue to both panels. Hide glue would have been used originally but the goal for this little project is to hide the crude cutout, not to replicate woodworking methods at the time it was constructed. Yellow glue is appropriate for this project; it is stronger and has a high bonding strength.

The two panels are clamped together.

Next, a dark walnut stain was applied to the door panel to match the case. Installing the door to the case required two small brass hinges mounted on the right side. For the pull handle, I decided to go with a wood knob stained in dark walnut.

Drop installed and stained to match case

Final steps:

A small piece of wood was affixed to the inside of the dial cutout to ensure that the hinge screws had something to bite into. Following this, the glass bezel door was attached.

Block on left is glued in place to screw the door hinge to the case

Next are dummy slotted wood screws for the bezel holes, basically to conceal the holes.

The drilled holes in the bezel are unsightly
The door project is almost complete, door pull missing in photo

Having sorted out the striking issue the movement is now installed in the case.

My thoughts on this project:

Prior to the first pictures I saw, I had visions of a clock that needed a little work to restore it. When I discovered that the case was homemade it was a disappointment. After giving it much thought it seemed that the most appropriate course of action was to preserve what I had.

Overall the cost of bringing this clock back to running condition and refreshing the case was minimal. Was it worth it? Yes! It is now complete, it shows better and it will tell an interesting story for years to come.

It may not be the prettiest clock on the wall but it will be a great conversation piece and after 60 years it is functional and it will finally tell the time. I can only imagine my grandfather standing under the clock, comparing the time with his pocket watch and deciding if he should make just one small adjustment.

Grandfathers old clock – Preserve a memory or restore it – Part III

This is Part III of a 4-part series. I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. Now that I have it what do I do with it.

I have devoted two previous articles to this curious and somewhat homely Waterbury time and strike schoolhouse clock. It is a clock that had been passed down within the family and it has had a hard life. Along the way it has undergone some changes, not all of them pretty. I thought about the next steps for this clock and considered advice from friends and family. It came down to three options:

1) Do absolutely nothing, preserve it as-is and store it in a closet,

2) Discard the case out, buy a donor case and install the parts I have in the new case or,

3) Preserve it, that is, not change it in a significant way but make some cosmetic changes and have it run reliably.

Option three it is.

At one time the original case was painted yellow with red trim. which is probably why it was discarded

Restoration or preservation? The restoration process consists of performing clock repair procedures on the movement as well as cosmetically restoring the dial, the case and its wooden and metal components using period procedures. Proper restorations do not change the clock’s functionality, appearance or value. Restoration of a valued clock is a serious business as many owners are emotionally attached to a clock for various reasons.

In this situation the movement can be restored and the other hardware cleaned up, however, the case is not original and was likely made 40, or 50 years ago which is why this project is part restoration and part preservation. Servicing the movement, putting the clock in running condition and making some cosmetic changes is my objective for this project.

This is what the clock looked like when I first received it.

First photo of the clock sent by my cousin

It has a homemade plywood case though it has all the essential mechanical parts. There is no dial glass. The brass bezel would have been hinged and perhaps the hinge broke and was discarded. The bezel was then screwed into the plywood.

The first step is the movement. The parts arrived from Perrin and I went to work on the movement. The movement is a Waterbury time and strike with a patent date of Sept 22, 1874. It was dirty as expected and there was some rust but it cleaned up nicely.

Before
And after servicing

The movement required 5 bushings at T2F, T2R, S2F, S2R, and S3F. As always it takes me more than one try to get the strike side functioning correctly. During testing I noticed that the strike side was sluggish. A tight bushing, bent pivot, insufficient end shake? I will know when I take it apart and take a second look.

Walnut stain and clear coat, hiding the plywood and nail heads, for the most part

I gave the case a thorough cleaning, then a sanding and applied one coat of dark walnut stain followed by three coats of shellac. A dark Walnut stain is the optimal way to hide the plywood and the nail heads. It does not hide the plywood completely but the intent for this project is to refresh the case rather than conceal imperfections.

At one time the original case was painted yellow with red trim, my grandfather’s idea of matching the clock to the paint and trim in his kitchen. The original case was likely in such poor condition that it was thrown away.

Next, the brass. It was painted red at one time so it took a little Brasso muscle to remove a combination of red paint and tarnish.

The brass was quite black

The result looks good

The dial was a challenge. Cleaning up the pit marks and faded numbers was my key objective. The nicks are chicken pecks while stored in a barn. Again, I was not interested in replacing it but touching up the nicks and rust spots while preserving the character of the dial. I have a supply of acrylic metal paint and it is a matter of mixing the right colours to determine the closet match.

The numbers were painted with flat black acrylic metal paint. The dial touch-ups would fool most people at a distance. I removed the rust from the hands and gave them two coats of flat black paint. The coil gong base was cleaned and also painted black.

Colour matching to hide paint loss

I ordered 10 1/4inch convex glass for the bezel plus a door hinge. The hinge was soldered into place as were brass tabs to hold the glass. Although the hinge is not affixed in this photo, this is what the door complete with dial glass looks like. There is not much I can do about the screw holes on the bezel; it remains part of its provenance. I may cut the heads of some brass slotted screws and solder them to the holes or simply leave the holes as-is.

Glass installed in bezel. Hinge installed but not fit to case in this shot

The clock requires an access door on the short drop, the opening is unsightly. As you can see in the photo above the cut-out is rough and a door will effectively hide it. I plan to make a solid door much like the one on this New Haven schoolhouse clock.

Drop door on a New Haven schoolhouse clock

It may not not be the prettiest clock in my home but it will be a great conversation piece and after 60 years it will finally tell the time. I can only imagine my grandfather standing under the clock, comparing the time with his pocket watch and deciding if he should make just one small adjustment.

Next is new drop access door and final assembly which I will detail in the next and last post for this project, Part IV in 4 days.

What to do with this old clock was a difficult decision. What would you have done?

Mauthe (FMS) wall clock restoration – Part I – assessment and first steps

This is Part I of a three part series on restoring this beautiful 1900s Mauthe wall clock.

This Victorian style German wall clock was purchased locally from a family that once lived in the town of Parrsboro over 100 years ago. I found the clock on a local online for-sale site. It looked interesting but there was no price listed. I contacted the seller but they were asking considerably more than I was willing to pay. I explained the work that had to be done to the case, servicing of the movement and the fact that had it been in better condition they would easily receive more for the clock. I concluded the phone conversation with my top offer for the clock. They contacted me 4 days later and met my price.

Celluloid dial with brass centre pan
Open containers of Kerosene usually indicate that the owner thought the vapor would lubricate his clock. Closed containers indicate that he believed that a more controlled method of applying it would be needed

It is a (FMS) Mauthe time and strike wall clock with an Adler gong. I have been assured by the seller that the clock is original in every way and using the serial number and trademark I have determined that it was made between 1890 and 1910, consistent with information I was provided. The eagle emblem on the Adler gong suggests that it was made after 1898.

The seller said the movement was maintained regularly. For years a small thimble of liquid was placed inside the clock to keep it lubricated though she could not recall what the liquid was. I said that this was a wide practice in the old days of keeping a clock movement lubricated, a folk remedy that might work but was not ideal. In fact, from about 1850 to 1920 roads were dirt, dust was everywhere, and people depended on their clocks. They routinely took the dial off and swabbed the movement out with kerosene. They often used a little brush, made with a few chicken feathers. Kerosene (paraffin) was available everywhere and, if used often, was probably an excellent way to rinse away the dust and at the same time oil the movement for a while. A little cup, a thimble or a  greasy medicine bottle of kerosene was placed inside the clock case to maintain lubrication. Open containers of Kerosene indicate that the owner thought the vapor would slowly evaporate and lubricate his clock. Closed containers indicate that he believed that a more controlled method of applying it would be needed.

What to do about the case

The finish is alligorated. Alligorated finishes are those that have encountered heat damage and are characterized by a finish (shellac or lacquer) that softens and pools into globules collecting dirt as it re-hardens.

For this project I essentially have three options,

  • Leave the case as-is,
  • Attempt to dissolve the alligorating using a solution (see ingredients below) or
  • Strip the case down to the bare wood.

I eliminated the first option. The case is very unsightly.

On to option number 2. I first attempted to dissolve the alligorated finish using a mixture of turpentine, kerosene and white vinegar combined with #0000 steel wool and while I was able to soften the globules the surrounding area lightened considerably. The net effect was a blotchy finish.

While taking the glass panels out I noticed a residue of shellac on the edges of the glass panels, so, I was dealing not only with the original finish but whatever had been applied over the original finish.

On to the last option, stripping the case

To remove the finish I used EZ Strip, a non-caustic and Eco-friendly product. Though it was non-caustic I wore gloves and ensured that my workspace had good air flow. EZ Strip is jelly-like and relatively easy to work with. After allowing it to sit on the finish for 20-30 minutes it is ready to strip. Despite the ease of application it required rubbing and scrubbing to take off the original finish to the bare wood.

This is the finish when I received the clock

This is the crown before stripping,

The crown

And after.

The finish is removed from the crown

As the case is missing a trim piece on the upper part of the door I fashioned a piece from some cabinet trim. A new slotted wooden stabilizer that secures the crown to the case was constructed of softwood. This you cannot see but it ensures that the crown stays securely on the top of the case. Also missing is a corner piece on the left side of the upper crown. Cove moulding works well. I purchased a finial from Lee Valley and it worked well for this project.

Removing the old finish had an immediate effect. The grain of the walnut veneer that had been hidden all these years was finally exposed.

Case is stripped, awaiting sanding, stain and final finish

For the final finish I will use shellac prepared in the traditional way. This is my first experience with shellac flakes and it is best to begin with a light consistency called a 1 lb cut. This is approximately a 1:8 ratio of shellac to alcohol. Therefore, 1 oz (28g) of shellac is dissolved in 8 fl oz (236ml) of denatured alcohol. I plan to use a French polish technique and apply the shellac and a broad artists brush to coat the turned sections.

Why is it frustrating asking for advice on social media?

I posted my case restoration project on a popular online clock site. I was seeking advice on working with shellac and while I received good advice the discussion quickly morphed into a debate about whether or not it is ethical to strip a case. There was significant division. Those on one side said they would do very little but clean it up or take the objectionable dirt off the finish while the other side posited that if presented with a situation where the finish was so poor that you could not appreciate the beauty of the veneers, a stripping is an acceptable alternative. Although both arguments have merit some of the posters were somewhat indignant and considered it a heresy to do anything at all to a clock case. There will always be both sides of the argument and I respect that.

See servicing of the movement and the final finishing of the case in Parts II and III, in the weeks to come.

A time to remember – Remembrance Day 2018

Cenotaph, Truro, Nova Scotia
In Flanders Fields, the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.
John McCrae

Today is a day of remembrance. Exactly 100 years after the end of World War, at the 11th hour on the 11th day of the 11th month on Sunday, Canadians will observe two minutes of silence — as they do every year on this date — to remember soldiers (and other military personnel) who lost their lives in this war and other conflicts.

People wear artificial poppies on their clothes in the weeks leading up to Remembrance Day. Red poppies symbolize the memory of those who died. On November 11, special church services are organized. These often include the playing of “The Last Post”, a reading of the fourth verse of the ‘Ode of Remembrance’ and two minutes silence at 11:00am. After the service, wreaths are laid at local war memorials.

National War Memorial, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
National War Memorial, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

The official Canadian national ceremonies are held at the National War Memorial in Ottawa. A service is held and wreaths are laid by armed services representatives. In May 2000 the remains of a Canadian soldier who died in France in World War I, but was never been identified, were laid in the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the National War Memorial.

Parliament Buildings in Ottawa
Peace Tower, Parliament Buildings, Ottawa

Take a moment to remember those who made the ultimate sacrifice to protect our freedoms.

Gene’s Movement Test Stand extension for clock movements

Gene's Movement Test Stand

Every horologist should have sturdy clock stand for testing clock movements.

If you have Gene’s movement test stand to test your clock movements you have chosen one of the best stands for clock repair. It is well-built, adjustable and simple to use. It is one of the best test stands I have ever used but it is not perfect.

While Gene’s test stand is excellent for mantel and shelf clock movement testing it is not ideal for most wall clock testing. I was tired of propping the movement stand up with books and pieces of wood to gain height so I decided to address the problem by constructing a cheap and effective extension for testing those movements with long pendulum rods which includes many wall clocks that I enjoy working on. I initially thought about building an entirely new stand for wall clock movements but building an extension to Gene’s stand made much more sense.

Although this extension addresses a shortcoming of Gene’s movement test stand, should you require something taller for grandfather clock movements you can easily modify this one to suit your needs. I do not work on grandfather clocks; the size is right for my purposes.

Frame constructed of plywood and spruce board
Frame constructed of plywood and spruce board
1/2 inch C shape platform
1/2 inch C shape platform

The extension consists of four legs, three of which are braced approximately midway on each side and the back with a lower brace along the bottom front. It has a plywood platform on the top where Gene’s stand rests.

Gene's stand is mounted atop the frame
Gene’s stand is mounted atop the extension
The extension has no adjustments although leveling can still be achieved on the Gene’s stand by means of the 4 adjustment bolts on the bottom part of the stand
A clamp (or 2) secures the stand to the extension
A clamp (or 2) secures the stand to the extension

The extension has no adjustments although leveling can still be achieved on the Gene’s stand by means of the 4 adjustment bolts on the bottom part of the stand. The legs are 1/2″ by 1 1/4″ spruce. The extension measures 18 1/4″ high by 9″ deep by 9 1/4″ wide. I used carpenter’s glue and for extra rigidity and 1″ screws (pre-drilled holes) to secure all the pieces together. I sanded it and applied a clear topcoat to give it an attractive finish. This is a project that took me less than two hours.

Simply attach the extension when you need it. A clamp or two can be used to secure the stand to the extension but I might design something more effective later.

You need some form of stand to test movements and if you do not have one, I highly recommend Gene’s Movement stand. The extension makes it even better. Let me know what you think.

The ultrasonic cleaner – an essential cleaning tool for clock repair

Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R

The ultrasonic cleaner is an essential tool for clock repair. Yes, you can get along just fine without one but if you have some spare cash you will not be disappointed.

Ultrasonic cleaning machines are used by a wide variety of professionals where cleanliness is of paramount concern. They are used in many industries including Dental/Medical, Industrial, Firearm, Jewelry/Watch/Clock, automotive repair and so on.

For the past two years I have been struggling with a Harbor Freight “special”, a light duty machine that does a less than average job of cleaning clock parts. It was inexpensive and I thought it was all I needed. Now I am done with it. It was frustrating to use, the cleaning cycle was a short 6 minutes, the heater produced lukewarm water, there was no drain, the basket was made of plastic and at the end of the day it did a poor job of cleaning clock parts. It was time for a replacement.

Ultrasonic cleaner
Harbor Freight Ultrasonic cleaner

My research included visiting manufacturers websites, looking at a myriad of models on on eBay and Amazon and seeking the opinions of clock enthusiasts on Facebook and the NAWCC forum site. There are a plethora of Chinese made machines at very attractive prices. They offer powerful heaters, large basket capacity and the ability to drain the solution from the tank. I have no idea of the reputation of these companies and I could have just as well bought a machine which would fail on delivery or fail in 6 months to a year. I would then be faced with spending another few hundred dollars to replace it. I also dreaded the thought of chasing after a Chinese company for warranty work.

I found L&R Ultrasonics. They have been making commercial quality ultrasonic cleaners for a number of years. They offer a range of sizes. I chose one near the bottom of the line, the Q140. The Q140 is approximately 10 inches long by 6 1/2 inches wide by 8 1/2 inches deep. It has a .85 gallons capacity (3.2L). It has a heater, a mechanical timer that sounds like an egg timer, a drain and it operates at 43kHz. It is made in the USA and costs twice as much as a comparable Chinese cleaner. It is a robust, well made machine backed by a 2 1/2 year warranty and something that should give me piece of mind for many years. A little money can be saved by buying an ultrasonic cleaner without a heater and preheating your solution in a microwave oven but the heater is a nice bonus.

Made in the USA
Made in the USA

One negative, it did not come with a stainless steel wire basket which I had to purchase separately from another supplier. The L&R basket was over CDN200! For a fifth of the price I opted for an after market stainless steel mesh basket by Cambridge Time that is designed to fit the Q140.

Enough room for clock plates and the gears
Enough room for Gilbert time and strike plates plus the gears
Back of unit showing fuse, drain hose and clip for plastic hose
Back of unit showing fuse, drain hose and clip for plastic drain hose

Overall, it is well designed, quiet (reasonably), portable, simple to use and well constructed. It uses a basic 60 minute mechanical timer and a simple on-off switch for the heater. One downside is that it is smallish and will accommodate only one movement.

Can you get along without one? Yes, but it makes life so much easier.

It’s time to change your clocks

Kienzle World Time clock

At 2:00am Sunday morning, the 4th of November, set your clock one hour behind. That is, if you live in Canada. Your time change date may vary according to the country you live in. Consider yourself lucky if your your country does not observe this archaic convention.

If your country uses Daylight Saving Time (DST), you must change your clocks twice a year.

Seth Thomas Regulator #2 wall clock

“Spring Forward – Fall Back” is a phrase most often heard in the USA and Canada. In North America the word “fall” is used to denote the season, while other English-speaking countries call it autumn. Set your clocks forward 1 hour in the spring at the start of DST (Daylight Saving Time), and 1 hour back in the fall when DST ends.

Records show that the phrase “spring forward, fall back” has been in use at least as far back as the early 20th century. It is the practice of advancing clocks during summer months so that evening daylight lasts longer, while sacrificing normal sunrise times.

Don’t like DST. Read this.

So…Fall behind!

Waterbury, New Haven or EN Welch – A true Frankenstein clock

E N Welch case

Is this attractive 30 hour weight driven Ogee a Waterbury, a New Haven or an E.N. Welch? All of the above, actually and perhaps more.

The older the clock and the greater the number of owners means there is an increased chance that there have been minor and even significant changes to the clock

Is it a marriage or a Frankenstein?

When horologists speak of a marriage they mean the clock in its entirety is not original. It generally means the movement is not original to the case but it can have other meanings as well. Various parts and components might have been added or changed over time. Over the life of a clock it has often been in the hands of many owners particularly if the clock is well over 100 years old. The older the clock and the greater the number of owners means there is an increased chance that there have been minor and even significant changes. Each owner may add or take away components in the interest of having a reliable clock while sacrificing authenticity. Functionality trumps aesthetics. When a clock goes well beyond the horologists definition of a marriage, it is called a Frankenstein.

A Frankenstein clock is made up of a mixture of clock parts from many makers. In this case, a previous owner acquired a number of non-working Ogee clocks, took what was salvageable from each one and constructed a working clock.

New Haven 30 hour movement

This clock was purchased at auction as a non-running example and cost the owner very little money. I was asked to take a look at it and perhaps “do something to make it run”. It came complete with weights for both sides missing only the pendulum bob and the correct key. The key that came with it was a #3 mantel clock key as the original would have been a crank style key. One weight was stuck in the right channel past its hook; the other was loose in the case; not a good way to transport a clock. Though difficult to tell if they are original to this clock, the weights are those typically found in a 30-hour brass time and strike movement.

The numbers have been repainted by the writer

The dial is not original to the case though it is correct for the period. There is a stamped impression in French on the back of the dial suggesting that the clock it was attached to was intended for export to France (Chauncey Jerome?).

Tablet design

The tablet is a nicely detailed floral design but has some loss as one would expect given its age. However, the tablet and the door do not appear to be original to the case. There are small blocks under each hinge suggesting the door was “made to fit” this case. Nails are used on one hinge and screws on the other.

Waterbury coil gong

The case is an E.N. Welch, the time and strike weight driven movement is New Haven and the coil gong is a Waterbury.

The aluminum spindle for the cable just above the movement on the right side is an curious touch.

Aluminum spindle

A wall hook at the top and back of the case suggests that it was hung rather than having sat on a shelf. Knowledgeable Ogee clock owners know that these clocks were never meant to be hung though many were displayed in that manner.

I took the movement out of the case, inspected it for wear and found it to be in very good condition with no obvious pivot, tooth, pinion or click wear. The verge and escape wheel similarly had little wear. The cables for the weights should be just long enough to bring the weight to the bottom of the case with a little to spare. On both sides the cables were twice as long as they should have been. The suspension spring and rod which is a later replacement, is too long as the bottom of the spring touches the crutch loop. The crutch loop had been incorrectly turned 90 degrees requiring a simple twist with pliers to correct it. How it ran is a puzzle since there was no impulse transmitted from the crutch to the pendulum rod. A previous owner, though well intentioned had little knowledge of how a movement functioned.

Incorrect grain direction on top piece

The rosewood veneer though dulled with age is in fair shape and had acceptable repairs with the exception of the flat horizontal strip on the top front, which upon closer inspection, is a replacement with simulated grain oriented in the wrong direction. Other issues are minor chips on the bottom edge of the case, two pieces of missing veneer on the right side and slight bubbling of veneer on the top left side panel.

Veneer issues

So, what is this clock exactly?

The answer is that it is a 30 hour Ogee clock. It is also an amalgam of many clock parts, a Frankenstein. From afar the entire clock looks very good, but closer examination immediately reveals it many sins. As they say, “Nice from afar but far from nice!”. A resourceful person took all the good parts from a variety of clocks and combined them to make a clock that actually runs and keeps good time.

Is it a keeper?

For discerning clock collectors this example is far from acceptable and certainly diminishes the value of a clock considerably even if it runs well. An expert looks for precisely these things prior to any decision and any serious collector of Ogee clocks would instantly walk away. For someone either interested in the history of clock production or those entering the world of clocks wanting a cheap clock to practice and learn with, it is certainly worth keeping.

The clock is running strongly and striking as it should following a cleaning and oiling. This 30 hour New Haven, Waterbury, E.N. Welch Ogee clock from the 19th century would fool most people.

It reminds me of that old expression….Caveat Emptor (Let the Buyer Beware)!

The first cuckoo clock in my collection – thank you Uncle Dave

Dave's cuckoo clock

When people ask about my clock collection their first comment is, “Do you have a cuckoo clock”. No, I say and their reply typically would be “You should have one!” I often wonder why folks think I should have one. I suppose many collectors have at least one in their collection. Now when they ask I can now say, “of course I do”.

sellers are interested in a sale and do not need to know anything about the clocks past

Thank you, Uncle Dave.

I have acquired most of my clocks at flea markets, auctions, word of mouth etc., even had a few given to me but I know little about their history. The sellers are interested in a sale and do not need to know anything about the clocks past; unfortunate but it is what it is.

On the other hand, I have several clocks which have a very interesting heritage; my Crispi wall clock by Junghans that survived the Halifax Explosion, my Ingraham Huron shelf clock that remained within in the same family for over 80 years or my Canadian Time wall clock by Arthur Pequegnat that hung in a railway station waiting room until 1993.

This is not any old cuckoo clock. This one is especially important……to me at least. This one can actually talk to me. I’ll explain.

My cousin Dave (we called him Uncle) died in 2017and his family knew that he loved his cuckoo clock. Rather than give or sell it to a stranger they decided to hand it over to the family clock guy…..me!  Dave was related through my father’s father and has a cottage next door to ours in the province of Quebec. Dave was a helluva a guy and he would do anything for you. He loved life and cherished it to the end.

From time to time you will find service dates written or stamped inside vintage or antique clock cases. These dates give you an indication of the age of the clock and how well it was cared for over the years

In the early 1970s, he and his wife went to Germany for a tour, returned to Canada and regretted not buying a German cuckoo clock. So, he promptly went to the Cuckoo Clock Shop in Ottawa (our nation’s capital) and bought one. He also wanted it in running order. Over the years whenever it stopped he had it promptly repaired.

Back of clock

he history of an object is a window to its past. This clock is a common 30-hour cuckoo clock made in West Germany in July of 1975 (photo below).) and thousands of these were made and sold all over the world. It has a Regula movement, still made to this day. Regula movements are made by SBS-Feintechnik, and are dated by a letter code. This one has the letter “V” which indicates that it was made in 2007.

German made 30-hour cuckoo clock

The clocks complete service history is recorded on the back panel. When I opened the back access door to inspect the movement and the condition of the bellows I found all the dates when the cock was brought in for repair. From time to time you will find service dates written or stamped inside vintage or antique clock cases. These dates give you an indication of the age of the clock and how well it was cared for over the years.

Detailed service history behind the access panel
  • Oct 10, 1978, clean oil adjust, major repair
  • Sept 22, 1988, CXO (clean and oil) adjusted by “AO”
  • October 30, 1990, new movement, repair by “AO”
  • Jan 1996, 5996 (job #) clean, oil & adjust
  • April 27, 2007, 9869 (job #) new movement and chains

From the service records, I observed that the clock is on its third movement. It is often simpler (and cheaper) to replace the movement in a cuckoo clock rather than to repair it. Attempting to repair a cuckoo clock is very time consuming, frustrating, and costly. In addition, if the entire clock had to be shipped, the case usually incurs extensive damage as it makes its travels. This is the reason most clockmakers no longer accept most cuckoo clocks for repair.

Regula 1-day movements typically cost less than CDN120. The cost of servicing a two-train clock locally is CDN225 and up, so, replacing the movement is a logical decision.

Cuckoo clock bellows on left and right.

I oiled the movement, installed the weights and now it is a lovely little 1-day clock that dutifully cuckoos on the hour.

We have a number of clocks in our summer cottage and my wife and decided that that is where it should hang. Everyone who visits marvels at the sound of the cuckoo clock, it is so distinctive. Now they say, “that’s a nice cuckoo clock, where did you get it?”.

It is not perfect. Sadly at some point in every cuckoo clock’s life, it needs the bellows replaced and these bellows are brittle and in poor condition. A cuckoo clock that does not cuckoo is, well, just another clock! The bellows is a cottage project for next summer.

And yes, provenance is important.

The Canada Clock Company (Hamilton Clock Co.) – a brief history

30-hour time and strike movement with clock company inscription on the bottom of the front plate

If one were to ask those with a keen interest in Canadian antique clocks, the word Pequegnat would immediately come to mind. Pequegnat produced clocks for close to 40 years and left an indelible mark on Canadian culture.

Predating Arthur Pequegnat is a lesser known clock maker (or clock-makers) that made clocks between 1872 and 1884. The Canada Clock Co, and the Hamilton Clock Co. struggled over a 12 year period to put Canada on the clock-making map. In 1872 the Canada Clock Co. established itself in Whitby, Ontario (Canada) but lasted just 4 years before failing, though largely due to a devastating factory fire.

Case is in fair condition, dial face has some flaking
Canada Clock Company cottage clock

Out of the ashes came another attempt in 1876 and key principles including manager John Collins moved to Hamilton and set up the Hamilton Clock Company. After 4 years this new company also failed and production halted in 1880. In late 1880 one more attempt was made to establish a new company called the Canada Clock Company resurrecting the old name. It is still based in Hamilton at the old Hamilton Clock Co. factory. Success was short-lived as the company declared bankruptcy in 1884 ending a dozen years producing clocks for the Canadian market.

Although both movements and cases were made in Canada they were copies American styles
Canada Clock Company, Prince of Wales parlour clock
Canada Clock Company, Prince of Wales parlour clock
Canada Clock Company, City of Hamilton parlour clock
Canada Clock Company, City of Hamilton parlour clock

I have grouped the clocks from the three companies and these are their characteristics. The most common clocks found today are the weight-driven, thirty-hour “Ogee” style, with colourful birds or flowers surrounded by a black background on the glass tablet. At least five different labels are known, four have a beaver on them. The large printed paper label was located inside the case on the lower back. Spring-driven mantel clocks with plain cases were also made with thirty-hour movements. Although both movements and cases were made in Canada they were obvious copies of American styles.

Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple clock
Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple clock with etched glass tablet
Loss on the clock label
Clock label showing the Hamilton Clock Company factory

Also produced was a spring-driven “school house” wall clock.

At least sixty models of spring-driven mantel clocks are known, with both thirty-hour and eight-day movements.  Most of the door tablets (Canada Clock Co.) have acid etched glass designs, unique to the two Hamilton-based companies and done in association with a local glass factory. Wall clocks are also found with the Canada Clock Company, Hamilton label.

The most desirable clocks are the ornate time and strike parlour clocks such as the City of Hamilton and Prince of Wales pictured above.

Unfortunately, a valiant attempt to grow a home-bred clock company failed miserably. However, the clocks of all three companies are highly sought after by Canadian collectors today.

Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock (The Pointed Top)

Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock

This is a Canadian made clock I bought at an antique store on Bloomfield, Ontario this past summer (2018).

Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock
This clock is affectionately known as the “Pointed Top”

The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. made clocks in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) from 1904 to 1941. Canadian clock collectors are very familiar with the name and associate Pequegnat clocks with solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs and nationalism since many clocks were named after towns and cities in Canada.

Pequegnat made mantel, shelf, hall clocks (Tall case) and wall clocks mostly of oak but some were mahogany veneered. The Kitchen clock or gingerbread clock as it is often called was very popular at the time and Pequegnat made an effort to keep up with current styles with a range called the Maple Leaf. There were six versions of the Maple Leaf clock made by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. Though the dimensions are similar they share two unique characteristics; all Maple Leaf’s have the distinctive maple leaf tablet and Maple Leaf pendulum. It is Pequegnat’s interpretation of a truly Canadian clock styled after American clocks.

Label found underneath the base

This clock is affectionately known as the “Pointed Top”. Maple Leaf clocks are easily found on auction & for-sale sites and can be had for a mere fraction of the cost of the more desirable hall and wall clocks.

Hammer and coil gong
Hammer and coil gong

I have several Pequegnat clocks in my collection, two of which are Maple Leaf’s, a “fan top” and now this, the “pointed top”. In my view, the pointed top is the best design of the series.

Made of quarter sawn golden oak, it is reminiscent of a Gothic steeple clock, with squared columns on either side and a pointed centre with stylistic applique above the 5 inch dial. The base is a simple angled pedestal sitting on a box frame.

Pendulum bob with Canadian Maple Leaf
Pendulum bob with Canadian Maple Leaf

Some clocks have something peculiar about them and this one is no exception. Most Pequegnat labels are found on the back board. The label on this clock is underneath the base which is an odd location for a Pequegnat. If this was a standard practice it looks original and has the usual amount of loss one would expect from a 100 year old clock label. While the name Berlin is on the dial, the label indicates that the clock was made in Kitchener, Ontario. There are two possible explanations; either the dial face is a replacement from a older clock or the clock was made during the transition period (1916) when the name of the city was changed from Berlin to Kitchener during the First World War.

The movement is a distinctive Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates and brass bushings pressed into the plates

The glass tablet is in excellent condition. It is not uncommon to find some loss especially a few missing maple leaves here and there but this is the best I have seen. The dial face has some flaking but is otherwise in good condition; the Roman Numerals are vivid and unfaded. The spade hands are correct for the clock and look original. The oak case is in great shape with no missing or split pieces. The finish is in excellent condition and the oak grain enhances the simple lines, in fact, this clock has aged very well.

Tablet is in excellent condition
Tablet is in excellent condition

I took the movement out of its case to inspect it. It is a distinctive Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates and brass bushings pressed into the plates. Not surprisingly it had been worked on in the past. One bushing on the front plate has punch marks around it otherwise the movement was tight and there appears to be little evidence of wear. There is one small issue however; the lever that activates the passing strike on the half hour is loose in the arbour and has turned to one side. Turning it to the correct position does little to fix the problem. At some point I will get in there with Lock-Tite to secure it.

The fact that it does not strike reliably on the half hour does not particularly bother me. I oiled the movement, reinstalled the movement into its case, set the beat, wound it and it maintains a full eight day cycle.

I am very pleased with this acquisition but I my search goes on for the more desirable 15-day Pequegnat Moncton wall clock and of course the Regulator #1.

Get it now before it’s gone – is this clock worth collecting?

Antique steeple clock. Battery operated. Has been refinished Very nice clock

Hmm, I wonder if they had batteries 100 years ago?

Holy Smokes, a grandfather clock

The ad simply says “Clock”.

It is working, very god condition

Must have been blessed by the Pope.

Why are antique & vintage clock prices all over the map?

Garish Victorian excess but I like it!

A few months ago I was following a NAWCC thread on the volatility of clock prices and thought I would echo comments from some of the posters as well as my own thoughts on why clock prices are seemingly all over the map.

Market conditions and demand play a significant role. I have watched sadly as prices for many early American clocks have plummeted yet high end clocks have retained their value. Theories abound including tough economic times and the newer generation’s rejection of anything old.

As one poster said, “How is a price arrived at? It is a murky and confusing process. People use a number of metrics including a price consistently achieved at auction and their own experience buying and/or selling. Most offer clocks for 2 to 3 times what they expect to receive knowing that they will be negotiated down because it is much harder to mark something up. It is a very inexact science and a source of much debate. An object is ultimately worth what someone is willing to pay.” That’s especially true of a truly rare clock for which there is no real comparison. The term “rare” is difficult to define but rare is what most “experts” generally agree upon.

However, what was once considered “rare” based upon the largely anecdotal experience of persons whether they are dealers, collectors or auctioneers has been changed by the “eBay effect” where rarity is challenged by many examples offered for sale. It has been a real game changer.

Sperry and Shaw New York style for $75
Sperry and Shaw New York style clock for $75

Another poster said, “Many people who deal in antiques and collectibles cannot know everything.” It is especially true in the blossoming low end line of antique shops which are no different than flea markets and junk shops. Many of these stores rely on impulse buying and clock experts are not their target customer.

The poster went on to say, “These clocks are not intended be sold to a serious collector, but the impulse buyer will make the clock purchase based on any number of factors – decorative; “That steeple clock would fit perfectly on the mantel” or “We don’t care that it might not work, it is for show only” or nostalgic; “We always wanted an old clock and we can now afford it”. You cannot discount the value of being able to see the object up close, smell it, touch it and hear it tick and or strike.”

A true clock store, usually with repair services, commands high prices for their wares, but the clocks usually come with a guarantee and the comfort of knowing that it will work well and will do so for years to come. Internet stores lack the fixed and variable costs (and reputation) that a brick and mortar establishment has and, all other things being equal, can offer their product at a lower cost. However, to make a true cost comparison, one should add the cost of shipping, packaging, handling and insurance that will need to be paid by the purchaser.

Rural Nova Scotia antique shop
Is this an antique store or a junk shop?

I cringe as I walk into some of these shops. Most antique malls that I’ve discovered charge a monthly rate plus a commission percentage that result in significant markups. I spotted a Mauthe box clock priced at $300.00. It had a marred dial, broken beveled glass panels and marked “as-is”. When I asked the dealer about a better price, his answer was to knock 10% off. I walked away shaking my head.

There is no true “standard” pricing for any vintage or antique clock. As with most objects there is a price range that most would consider reasonable. I have paid more for some clocks than they are worth but armed with increased knowledge I can now make more informed decisions in the future. Caveat Emptor is the principle which should guide every buyer. The buyer alone is responsible for checking the quality and suitability of goods before a purchase is made. Education is the key as an informed buyer will make much better choices.

New Haven – servicing a 30 hour spring-driven clock movement

Ogee New Haven clock

This is a 30 hour or 1-day New Haven Ogee shelf clock. 1875-80 seems to be the approximate period of manufacture for this smallish Ogee clock. The case measures 18 1/2 by 11 3/4 inches (47cm X 30cm) and the hour strike movement measures 3 1/2 by 5 inches (9cm X 12.7cm).

So, its a bit of a miss-match. Imperfect but attractive just the same

This 30 hour New Haven Ogee shelf clock looks nice from a distance but closer inspection reveals a number of issues regarding the condition of the case. Although the sides panels of the clock are veneered, the front veneer has been stripped likely because of significant loss or damage. Crude chisel marks on the left front of the case suggest that the veneer in this section was tough to take off. This is unfortunate, but I have no intention of re-veneering any part of this clock. There is also veneer loss on the top right side. From a distance the entire clock actually looks good and the casual observer would not notice the difference.

It takes a#3 key to wind the clock. It is probably the only American shelf clock I have that uses a key that small.

The movement looks original to the case and there are indications that it has been worked on in the past. There are punch marks surrounding several pivot holes, an common old-style repair to close the holes.

30 hour movement
30 hour movement, prior to cleaning

The coil gong is a replacement and is in a slightly different location than the original gong judging from screw holes to its right. The gong is probably from an E. N. Welch or a Gilbert. The clock dial face is a recent addition and the access door knob looks like it is a later addition.

So, its a bit of a miss-match. Imperfect but functional.

The movement was dis-assembled and the parts cleaned in my recently acquired Quantrex 140 ultrasonic cleaner. The movement parts came out shining particularly the lantern pinions.

Front plate removed
Front plate removed

The pivots were in very good shape and polished up well with my Butterworth Bushing Polishing System that I use with my multi-speed Dremel tool. I decided to tackle only the worst bushing holes; the centre canon, back plate and the escape wheel bridge. Four bushings were also installed on second and third wheels, front and back plates.

Movement test
Movement test
Testing in the clock case rather than on a stand
Testing in the clock case rather than on a stand

Some consider 30 hour clocks as a hassle because they must be wound once a day but I am okay with that. This 30-hour Ogee clock runs very well, keeps good time and I am pleased with the servicing.

Grandfathers old clock – now what do I do with it? Part II

 

Photo sent to me by my cousin

I posted Part I of a four-part article on this curious schoolhouse clock recently. In this, Part II I discuss the what I like and what frustrates me about this project.

I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. Now that I have it what do I do with it. I thought long and hard about what my next steps should be and considered advice from friends and family.

  1. Do absolutely nothing,
  2. Discard the case, buy a donor case and install the parts I have or,
  3. “Preserve” it, that is, not change it in a significant way but have a working clock.
I had hopes of restoring this clock to its former glory but after discovering a home-built case I have decided to proceed differently

The good stuff: The dial face is definitely showing its age. There is rust and pitting throughout but the Roman Numerals are fairly clear despite some fading. The Waterbury trademark is visible on the dial just above the centre arbour. The spade hands appear to be original, though rusted. The time and strike movement is intact sans suspension spring, pendulum rod and pendulum bob. There is a Waterbury trademark on the front plate of the movement with a patent date of September 22, 1874. Just how long Waterbury used this movement deserves some research but the clock works look to be from the 1890s. The coil gong is clearly marked Waterbury. The bottom line; there is strong evidence that the movement, dial, bezel, clock hands, and coil gong are all from the same clock.

When I picked up the clock I immediately discovered that it was twice as heavy as it should be
Plywood was not available as a general building material until 1928

The frustrating stuff: When I picked up the clock I immediately discovered just how heavy it was. Makers go to great lengths to make clocks as light as possible; this one is very hefty. The backboard and front face are constructed of ½ inch plywood. Plywood would not have been available in the 1890s or even some years afterwards. The centre frame appears to be 3/4 inch board. The movement sits high on a block of wood to bring the arbours closer to the dial but the result is that they protrude too far above the face. Robertson and Phillips screws (the former invented 1909, the latter in 1932) are used everywhere. The “newer” case is very sturdy and would likely last a long time but weighs twice as much as it should. It is an interesting homemade case.

Plywood construction, twice as heavy as a typical clock case should be

The handyman, be it my grandfather or someone who it was passed on to certainly had the best of intentions. The original pieces such as the dial, movement etc. were retained but the original case was discarded. My grandparents were poor and lived modestly. In those days if things wore out folks would go to great lengths to keep them running often resorting to home repairs with materials at hand. The goal was functionality not aesthetics.

The movement, coil gong, dial face, bezel and hands are all from the same clock

Four screw holes were drilled into the original brass dial bezel and at one point in its life it was painted red. The bezel would have been originally hinged to the front face of the clock. The dial glass is missing, perhaps discarded after it broke. Aside from the 4 screws holding the dial bezel, I counted 20 more screw holes once I lifted up the bezel.

Lastly, the short drop section is without an access door.

Next steps: I had hopes of restoring this clock to its former glory but after discovering a home-built case I have decided to take another course of action.

The dial, bezel, movement and coil gong are the important mechanical bits which are in good shape. Missing are the suspension spring, pendulum rod and pendulum bob, all easily available through any clock supplier. The movement wheels run free and the mainsprings are good; all the parts are there aside from those mentioned above and there is no reason why it should not run reliably after cleaning and servicing.

The clock is waiting for me on my cousins kitchen table

The case is what it is, it is part of my history, part of my family history. It will be sanded and stained dark walnut followed by a clear topcoat. I will affix a brass plaque in memory of my grandfather and proudly hang it on the wall.

But first: The first order of business is to clean up the clock including the brass dial face sections. Next, buy new glass for the dial and a hinge for the bezel plus the movement parts that are required. Finally, I will fashion a new drop door using old wood from a donor clock.

And that’s where it ends. It can be no more than what it is.

It may not be the prettiest clock in my home but it will be a great conversation piece and after 70 years it will finally tell the time. I can only imagine my grandfather standing under the clock, comparing the time with his pocket watch and deciding if he should make just one small adjustment.

The clock is now on my project bench and I will post two more blog articles in November detailing the steps towards preserving this interesting clock.

Grandfathers old clock – I asked for it, now what do I do? Part I

 

Photo of my grandfather’s clock sent to me by my cousin

I’ve thought about this clock, dreamt about it, wondering where it was all these years…….and now I have it. Now, what do I do?

I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. After church on Sundays, my father would take us kids by for a visit; it was a weekly ritual. The house was stone quiet except for the sound of a clock ticking loudly in the kitchen. My grandfather was a veteran of WWI and was bothered by certain noises but did not mind the sound of a mechanical clock.

When I was a kid in the 1950s it looked gigantic and for some curious reason, it was painted yellow with red trim. What did I know, I thought old clocks came in all sorts of colours.

My grandfather, William George Joiner, taken during WWI

But he loved that clock. There is a story that my grandfather was fanatical about keeping the clock on time; he would constantly compare the time to his pocket watch and make adjustments, sometimes several times a day. They left the house on Olmstead Street in Eastview (now Vanier, Ontario, Canada) several years before his death and the clock was passed to a son (my uncle) and eventually handed down within his family. My grandfather passed away in 1962.

Movement is essentially intact except for the suspension spring, rod and pendulum.

A year ago I decided to track down the clock and learned that it had stayed within the family. My cousin sent a photo of the clock but upon examining it I could see that something was not quite right. It was missing parts, it looked pretty rough and that case looked homemade. At that time I replied,

Yes, it is indeed a Waterbury time and strike clock. Your description of it as a school clock is correct though it would not have been called a schoolhouse clock at the time. It would have been sold as an office clock. The patent date tells us that the clock was made after 1874 but likely manufactured in the 1890s to 1900.

In clock circles it would be described as a time and strike 8-day octagonal short drop wall clock, Roman Numeral dial face with spade hands. From the photo I can see that it is missing the pendulum (as you said) the hinged wooden drop access door which would have had a glass tablet and the brass/glass bezel which would have covered the dial. I assume these items are long gone.

It also appears to have been in a damp environment judging from the tarnished brass and the fact that the rust from the iron nails has bled through the wood. However, it is not unusual for a clock of this age to be in such a condition. I have seen far worse.

At a recent family get-together, my cousin said that if I wanted the clock I could have it. Yes, I said and I brought it home thinking about my next steps with my new clock project.

There are 4 posts in this series. Part II is in 4 days. In Part II I consider those next steps. Parts III and IV will be in November.

Let me know what you would do with this project.

Turn of the century Mauthe (FMS) wall clock with Adler gong

The family was in the process of downsizing and this was one of the items that had to go

This attractive antique Victorian style German wall clock was purchased locally from a family that once lived in the town of Parrsboro over 100 years ago. Parrsboro is a picturesque Canadian community in Cumberland County, Nova Scotia and one of the oldest settled areas of Canada. It had hung for many years in the Parrsboro Mansion pictured below. Today the mansion is a popular bed and breakfast destination.

Parrsboro Mansion, Parrsboro, Nova Scotia, Canada

I found the clock on a local online for-sale site. It looked interesting but there was no price listed. I contacted the seller but they were asking considerably more than I was willing to pay. I explained the work that had to be done to the case and movement and the fact that had it been in better condition they would easily receive more for the clock. I concluded the phone conversation with my top offer for the clock. They contacted me 4 days later and met my price.

I was curious about its history. The seller explained that the clock was brought over from Europe when her husband’s family moved to Canada in the 1890s and had been in the family ever since. The family was in the process of downsizing and this was one of the items that had to go. I was pleased that the seller expressed an interest in seeing the final restoration and I assured her that I would keep in touch. Knowing the history of the clock, or any clock for that matter, is value added in my view; provenance is so important when it comes to any antique.

Using the serial number and trademark I have determined that it was made between 1890 and 1910, consistent with information provided by the seller

It is a Mauthe time and strike wall clock with an Adler gong. I have been assured that the clock is original in every way and using the serial number and trademark I have determined that it was made between 1890 and 1910, consistent with information provided by the seller. The eagle emblem on the Adler gong suggests that it was made after 1898. The turn of the century would be fairly accurate dating for this clock. It is a 120 year old clock that is not overly garish and reflects the style its period.

Adler coil gong

The clock case is in need of a restoration. There are pieces missing and it appears that it was either in a hot environment for some of its life, an attic perhaps or hung over a fireplace; the finish is alligorated. Alligorated finsihes are those that have encountered heat damage and are characterized by a finish (shellac or lacquer) that softens and pools into globules collecting dirt as it re-hardens.

Alligorated finish

It is missing a finial on the crown, a trim piece on the top of the access door, the wall stabilizers and a corner piece on left side of the crown. Some of these parts are available through parts suppliers, other pieces must be fabricated.

Crown with missing finial and small corner piece on the top left

I am anxious to start on the case and must decide whether to clean the surface or strip to the bare wood. The dial is a separate issue. It is cellulose and very dark. Can it be cleaned? Not likely but I am doing some research to find a solution. In the meantime the movement has run strong for the past 4 days and strikes as it should. It will need a cleaning and possibly new bushings but I will know more once I examine it more carefully. At this point I do not see any major issues with the movement.

I am completing the restoration of a Waterbury wall clock and once done I will commence work on this clock project.

As I proceed with this project I will document my experiences restoring this early 1900s FMS Mauthe time and strike wall clock with an interesting history.

Sessions Drop Octagon – a pint-sized schoolhouse clock

Sessions Drop Octagon

A working clock for $25? You can’t go wrong.

Found this little schoolhouse clock not 10 minutes from where I live. It is a Sessions Drop Octagon. It was manufactured in Forestville Conn. USA in the early 1920s and spent most of it’s life hung in a one-room schoolhouse near Springhill, Nova Scotia (Canada). The seller said that he had taken it out of the schoolhouse when it was decommissioned in the 1970s and it has been in storage ever since.

It is small, measuring 21 inches high by 13 1/2 inches wide and with a 7 inch Arabic dial.

Foxing

“It’s not running” he said. “Fine” I said. I took it home and had it running within 10 minutes. Although it ran strongly it required a good cleaning. I took the movement out of its case, dis-assembled it, cleaned all the parts in an ultrasonic cleaner, polished the pivots, cleaned and oiled the mainspring, installed 2 bushings, reinstalled the movement, tested it and set about cleaning up the case.

Time-only movement

After a Murphy’s Soap clean-up to the case I let it thoroughly dry then applied 2 coats of shellac to bring back the natural luster of the wood which was in otherwise good condition. The clock face had some foxing, which, in clock circles, means that some of the tin byproduct had leached through to the paper label and discoloured it. A little unsightly but I decided to live with it.  I hung it up over my desk as one of a trio of time zone clocks to remind me of the time where my kids live.

Time zone clocks
Time zone clocks, Session clcok on right

The clock is a loud ticker but it runs well and should be reliable for years to come.

Perspective on Horological (clock) Development

Need a quick primer on developments and inventions in horology. You have come to the right place.

18th Century shelf clock Porto, Portugal

Though by no means a definitive guide the following are some important dates in the history of the clock as gathered through a number of sources. The difficultly in affixing some dates with precision results from discrepancies among sources.

Horological developments during the centuries before the mechanical clock are left out altogether. Water (Clepsydra) and sun clocks of the middle ages and astronomical clocks of ancient China deserve special mention but are the subject of a separate discourse and are not included here.

Important dates in Horological Development

  • CA. 1300 – First mechanical verge clock, Europe
  • 1364 – Astronomical clock conceived by Giovanni de Dondi, Italy
  • 1386 – Tower (turret) clock Salisbury Cathedral, England
Salisbury cathedral clock, photo by Dr. Meghan Joiner
  • CA. 1400 – Fusee invented by Jacobs, Czechoslovakia
  • CA. 1450 – Table clock with spring and fusee, Phillip the Good of Burgundy, France
  • CA. 1500 – Mainspring invented, Germany
  • CA. 1510 – Watch invented by Peter Henlein, Germany
  • CA. 1560 – Spring driven portable clock, Germany
  • CA. 1570 – Oldest known clock with a second hand, Orpheus clock, Germany
  • 1637 – Galileo, swinging temple lamp, pendulum control conceived, Italy
  • CA. 1650 – First tower clock appears in Colonies, America
  • 1656 – Pendulum clock devised by Huygens, Holland
  • 1657 – Verge and foliot gives way to pendulum control, Huygens, Holland
  • 1658 – Long-case prototype made by Fromanteel adapted from lantern clock, England
  • 1660 – Balance wheel conceived by Hooke, England
  • CA. 1675 – Richard Towneley invents the dead-beat escapement, England
  • 1675 – Balance wheel with spiral spring invented by Huygens, Holland
  • CA. 1675 – Recoil escapement and crutch invented by Hooke in collaboration with Clement, England
  • 1676 – Rack striking developed by Barlow, England
  • 1680 – 1700 – famous horologists of this era were Arnold, Earnshaw, East, Graham, Knibb, Compion and Windmills of England; Berthoud, Breguet and LeRoy of France
  • 1701 – St Sulpice seminary tower clock (imported from France), Montreal, Canada
  • 1713 – Harrison invents marine chronometer, England
  • CA. 1715 – Break-arch dial introduced
  • 1715 – Graham perfects deadbeat escapement, regarded as the “father” of the dead-beat escapement
  • 1717 – First tower clock of America, Benjamin Bagnall, Boston
  • 1726 – Mercurial pendulum invented (temperature compensating pendulum), Graham, England
  • 1726 – Wall clock by Thomas Bennett, 8 day brass, weight driven, America
  • 1736 – Harrison’s marine chronometer tested at sea (accurately ascertaining longitude), England
  • 1770 – White dials appear in English longcase clocks
  • 1776 – Independent seconds train invented for watch, Pouzait, Switzerland
  • 1790 – Vienna regulator style case emerges in Austria
  • 1790 – American woodworks clocks begin to be appear
  • 1802 – Willard patents his banjo clock, America
  • 1806 – Terry introduces Pillar and Scroll clock, America
  • 1809 – Martin Cheney leaves America to set up a clock-making shop in Montreal, Canada
  • 1810 – Carriage clock (Pendule De Voyage) introduced by Breguet of France
  • 1818 – Heman Clark makes wrought brass movement for Pillar and Scroll case, America
  • 1825 – Rolled brass production begins in America
  • 1837 – Noble Jerome 30-hour brass movement patent approved, America
  • 1840 – American brass movements in mass production
  • 1842 – American brass movement clocks exported to England by Chauncey Jerome
  • 1845 – Wood-works movement production ends, America
  • 1850 – Westminster tower clock designed by Lord Grimthorpe and made by Dent, England
  • CA. 1850 – Brocot (pin-wheel) escapement and pendulum suspension introduced, France
  • CA. 1850 – American mass production of watches begins
  • 1860 – Junghans (Germany) sent to America to study American mass production techniques
  • 1870 – Decline in English long-case clocks
  • 1874 – Mass production of mantel and wall clocks begin in Whitby, Canada,
  • 1900 – American clock production is at its height; makers are Ansonia, Ingraham, Gilbert, Howard, New Haven, Seth Thomas, Waterbury, and Welch
  • 1904 – Arthur Pequegnat begins clock production in Berlin, Canada
  • 1906 – Eureka electric clock introduced, America
  • CA. 1910 – Torsion pendulum clock (400-day) introduced, Germany
  • 1920-40 – Decline in American mechanical clock production
  • 1941 – Arthur Pequegnat ceases production, Canada
  • CA. 1960-70 – End of mass produced mechanical clocks, America (though cheaper Japanese, Korean & Chinese mechanical clocks flood North America)
  • Present day – Some movement and clockmakers remain; Howard Miller (Ridgeway), Keininger, Hermle, Chelsea, Jaeger LaCoultre among others

The clock is one of mans greatest achievements. The development of instruments to tell time is the unwavering toil of brilliant minds from many disciplines who, over 800 years, worked tirelessly to create, innovate and improve methods for telling the time.

Horology is not only the study of time but the synergy of art, joinery, fashion, design, décor, physics, engineering, metallurgy and mathematics. Indeed, the study of the mechanical clock is a microcosm of our society.

Time rules life – like it or not.

Back from a little break – now for more clocks

Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1 is still on my wish list

Lots of exciting news over the summer. Six new clocks, three of which have been on my wish list for a while. One, a Cuckoo clock, is my first. Another is an Ansonia crystal regulator, two more Pequegnat clocks, a curious Waterbury wall clock and more. I will be writing about my new acquisitions in the weeks to come.

I also managed to expand my clock library as I have found several interesting books on horology which I will report on in a future article.

For those who wrote to me over the summer, thanks and again I apologize for the delay in getting back to you.

It is good to be back.

Tick Talk Tuesday #18 – Is my Mauthe balance wheel fixable?

Tick-Talk Tuesday
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

BJ writes,

“What did you do to fix the balance on the older Hermle movement?  My local clock man would not repair and I love the sound of my clock.  The spring has come away from the top – ok, I took out to try to adj the inner ring and dropped it.  ( it was  losing an hour a day.)  anyhow, the fork also looks to have been bent.

Is this fixable?  I’ve seen a few clocks on-line but did not know if they can be used to repair my movement easily.”

Hermle balance wheel escapement
Hermle balance wheel escapement

My reply,

“Platform escapements and balance wheels are the work of watch-makers. I am not surprised your clock maker would not repair it. In my case I did not have to re-attach the spring but did have to adjust it. If the spring has pulled through the upper block, you could try threading it back in and in give it a little solder to hold it. If it is snapped off, that is much more difficult. Even  if you were to get it back in, that would change the dynamics of the helical spring which is now slightly shorter. You can easily bend the fork back to where it was.

You have some options.

  • Find a donor movement on eBay or Craigslist. If it is exact, and the same model number the parts are interchangeable. However the fact that it is on eBay may mean that the clock is worn and you are no further ahead.
  • Go to a site such as Clockworks and compare your model number to the best fit for a new movement (if you are prepared to go in that direction) or
  • check Timesavers to see if they have a replacement balance wheel.

If you should get it up and running or if you find a donor movement you may find the above article to be of some help.”

BJ writes back,

“Thanks for the article. I wonder if I can get a watch maker to take a look.  Good idea.”

 

 

 

 

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Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks

Collecting, Repairing and Restoring Antique/Vintage Clocks

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