Winding a mechanical clock – A How-To Guide

In this age of everything electronic, it may surprise some people that a newly acquired mechanical clock bought at the local garage sale, flea market or antique store needs to be wound on a regular basis. Winding a mechanical clock takes a level of care but a few simple guidelines should have you on your way.

Here’s how to wind an antique or vintage mechanical clock correctly. By following these tips and guidance, you’ll gain the skill and confidence needed to wind your clock properly and maintain its functionality.

Let’s begin by discussing some basic terms.

Winding Arbours or Winding Points and Their Function

On your clock’s dial (excluding cable-driven tall case clocks or any clock that has pull-up weights), you will notice one, two, or three holes, known as “winding arbours” or winding points.

Junghans Corner feet finished — _{A typical German mantel clock}

For example, a clock with one winding hole is a time-only clock. Two winding holes typically indicate a time-and-strike clock. These clocks strike the hour on the hour and may also strike on the half-hour, either on a bell or gong.

Each arbour serves a specific purpose, and the number of winding arbours indicates the number of gear trains (or sets of gears) in the clock.

Clocks with three winding arbours chime on the quarter-hour, producing a musical tone. On such clocks, the center arbour winds the time train, the left arbour winds the strike train, and the right arbour winds the chime train.

On some clocks, there is a smaller hole on the clock face near or above the 12 o’clock position. It is also an arbour, but a smaller one used for regulating the speed of your clock. If you have a double-ended key, the small end fits that arbour. Some clocks will have the regulating arbour located under the centre cannon where the hands are attached.

The Difference Between the Terms Strike and Chime

A strike or a chime is simply the clock sounding the time. An antique or vintage “time and strike” clock indicates the hour by striking once for each hour or using a two-tone strike, such as a Normandy or “Bim-Bam” strike.

On the other hand, a chime is a musical tone, and a typical musical tone found on most clocks with three winding points is the Westminster chime. Some clocks provide more choices, such as the Schatz W3 bracket clock, which has 3 musical tones: St Michael’s, Whittington, and Westminster.

On older clocks, there may or may not be an additional strike on the half-hour. Older antique clocks from the mid-1800s, for example, typically do not strike on the half-hour to preserve the wind on the strike side.

Typically, striking clocks have two winding points, while chiming clocks have three.

Where Winding Points Are Located

On this spring-driven, Seth Thomas mantel clock (photo below), the left arbour, indicated by an arrow, winds the strike side, and the right arbour, the right arrow winds the time side. The smaller hole just below the centre cannon is for regulating the clock using a double-ended key.

Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows) — _{Winding arbours on an antique Seth Thomas mantel clock}

On the Ingraham clock (photo below), there is only one set (or train of gears) that indicates it is a time-only clock, hence the single arbour or winding point. The barely visible, smaller hole in the loop end of the “2” on the number 12 is for regulating the clock.

Winding arbor on an Ingraham Nordic banjo clock — _{Winding arbour on an Ingraham Nordic banjo clock}

If the striking sound is bothersome or disruptive to guests, you can simply wind the time side only—the clock will continue to run normally without engaging the strike mechanism.

However, to ensure even wear and proper maintenance, it is advisable to wind both sides of a striking clock.

The Running Time or Cycle of a Clock

Most clocks are designed to run for eight days. Some older clocks run 30 hours, and others run as long as 30 days on a wind. Still others, such as anniversary clocks, will run 400 days on a wind.

For eight-day clocks, winding once a week ensures the clock continues running smoothly. Establishing a routine, such as winding your clock(s) on the same day each week (a Saturday, for example), is a helpful habit.

It’s also a good idea to make occasional adjustments to your clock, such as fine-tuning its speed to account for seasonal changes. You can find more details in an article I wrote about regulating your clock.

Clock Keys

It is common for a newly acquired clock to come without a key, but this is nothing to worry about. If it does have one, it is usually a replacement. Finding a clock with its original key is quite rare.

The key that accompanies the clock is likely to fit, but if your clock has a speed adjustment arbour (marked F-S) on the dial, typically located near the top, it should have a double-ended key.

If your clock has a one-ended winding key and a speed adjustment arbour is present, the key is not original to the clock. Double-ended keys are necessary because the speed adjustment arbour is considerably smaller than the winding arbour.

Key Size and Type

All mechanical clocks require a winding key, like the one shown below. For those clocks that have winding cables, a winding crank is required. Winding cranks will be covered later in this article. The exceptions are alarm clocks and some carriage clocks, which have built-in winding keys.

Keys come in various sizes, so it’s important to have the correct size for your clock’s arbour. The key should fit snugly without being too loose.

If your clock came without a key it can be purchased at any clock supply house, such as Perrin in Vancouver, Canada. Timesavers and Merritts are clock suppliers in the USA, where keys can be purchased.

_{Ingraham Huron winding key. Home-made but functional and over 120 years old}

Over-winding a clock is a common myth. A clock which “appears” to be over-wound seizes because of a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil

Winding Your Mechanical Clock

If the dial is covered by a glass door, open it to access the clock face. Insert the key into one of the winding arbors, and use your non-dominant hand to steady the case while winding. To protect the finish, it’s a good idea to wear a cotton glove on your non-dominant hand.

Next, turn the key clockwise. If it doesn’t turn clockwise, try turning it counterclockwise. Some clocks wind differently, so this is normal. Avoid forcing the key; apply minimal pressure and continue winding until you feel resistance. Once you encounter resistance, stop winding and do not force the key further.

Below is a clear example of a previous owner using excessive force to wind the movement in the wrong direction. The right spring barrel has become unhooked from the main wheel, which only happens when significant force is applied while winding in the opposite direction.

If you lose the key, simply purchase a replacement. Never use pliers or any other hand tools to wind a clock, as the arbours can be easily stripped.

Daniel Dakota movement — _{Chinese clock movement}

The “clicking” sound heard while winding the arbour is the click engaging the ratchet on the mainspring. The ratchet’s purpose is to secure the mainspring in place with each turn of the key.

An 8-day clock usually requires about 14 half turns of the key as the arbour does one complete turn per day.

Mainspring rachet and click — _{Mainspring ratchet and click.}

Allow the key to gently return to its click. On the rare occasion that the click slips or breaks, resist the urge to release it quickly. Instead, let the key slowly unwind in your hand to prevent potential damage to the teeth, gears, and even your hand.

Letting the key go free suddenly can cause collateral damage to other parts of the movement.

The myth of overwinding a clock is common, but a clock that “seems” overwound actually seizes due to a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil, which causes the coil to lock or stick.

Regular servicing of a mechanical clock is an essential part of ownership and helps prevent future mainspring issues.

Clocks with Weights

Not all clocks use springs — for example, grandfather clocks and one-day ogee clocks are weight-driven. On these clocks, the weights must be raised to the top to begin the weekly time cycle. This can be done either by inserting a crank key into the winding arbor on the clock face or by manually pulling the chains to lift the weights.

For clocks with winding chains, gently pull down on the shorter side of the chain until the weight reaches the underside of the wooden seatboard, stopping at the weight stop bar. Repeat this process for the remaining two chains if it’s a chiming clock.

Allow the chains to do the work — do not assist by lifting the weights at the same time. Pushing up on the weights could cause the chain to slip over the winding gear teeth or become unhooked. To protect the brass finish on the weight shells, wear cotton gloves while steadying the weights as they are pulled up.

For tall case clocks with cable drives, use a crank key to wind them by inserting the key into each winding hole on the clock face. Turn the key slowly until the weights are raised to the top.

All three weights on a chiming grandfather clock descend more or less together through the week.

On older tall case clocks with weights hidden behind an access door, open the door to observe the weights as they rise when you wind the clock. As the weights near the top, slow down and stop when you feel resistance.

Thirty-hour time and strike or one-day clocks are typically wound with a winding crank inserted in the dial face winding points once per day. Wind the weights to the top of the case at approximately the same time each day.

Final thoughts

In conclusion, take pride in your mechanical clock and the craftsmanship it represents. Wind it regularly, care for it properly, and have it serviced when necessary. Even if you prefer not to keep it running, cherish it as a remarkable piece of horological heritage.

For visual learners who prefer to see the process in action, I’ve created a helpful video demonstration showing exactly how to wind a clock. You can watch it here:

Regulating your mechanical clock – its easier than you think

Clock key sizes – do you have the right one?

Clock parts suppliers that should be on every clock repairer’s list

Schatz W3 – Installing an 8-rod chime block in a custom made clock case

May 4, 2017

Tick-Talk Tuesday #6 – comments on online purchases

Tick-Talk Tuesday is all about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). If I am stumped, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

I wrote a blog article offering advice for online purchases which you can see here.

Summarizing my advice for online shoppers;

Check the dates on the listings. The longer they are listed the more the seller is inclined to sell for a better price.
Meeting the same day is crucial; you do not want the seller to get cold feet and you do not want someone coming before you to buy the clock.
Cash is the rule. No cheques!
If you cannot negotiate a final price by email suggest talking it over on the phone
Be courteous and polite at all stages of the deal

Unknown French clock — Unmarked French clock, Kijiji purchase

JC writes, “Very good advice overall. I have only one small issue: I think asking about dates (how old is it?) is kind of pointless. I’ve seen clock-makers who have been in business for decades (30+ years) who can’t even correctly date a clock to within 100 years. I’m thinking of a specific example of a well known clock-maker who was explaining a repair on a comtoise clock “from the early 1700s”. The clock was actually from around 1840. I find that this sort of mis-dating happens often, and even with so called experts. Another example I can give you is a Black Forest clock specialist who had a particular clock he was demonstrating in a video, also apparently also “early 1700s” with wooden wheels, but it had an original coiled gong strike inside. The earliest evidence of coiled spiral gongs only date back to as early as maybe 1820-1830. Before this they simply just didn’t exist yet. This was from an EXPERT collector. Someone who specializes in Black Forest clocks. Some of his clocks are worth 5 figures.

That said, I would not trust the word of any eBay, Craigslist, Kijiji, or even auction house seller.

As far as your little clock goes, I think it was an absolute STEAL! True, the strike side could potentially have major problems, but even as a timepiece, the marble is gorgeous. With the price of shipping these days, it was an especially nice find. I haven’t been too lucky finding clocks locally. I think I’ve only bought a small handful, and they tend to be anniversary clocks, and mass produced American clocks (gingerbreads and mantle clocks) with a few German Art Deco style clocks.

I’ve bought a *LOT* of my clocks online (eBay) and for 95% of them, I just went with photos. If the photos were not good enough, I’d pass. It has largely worked out for me, but I ALWAYS assume they will not work. There is only ONE clock that arrived in pristine working condition.

Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site

My response to JC . “A good point JC and one that I will consider. The answer I usually get when I ask about the age of the clock is how long the seller has had it. If they say they’ve had it for years or it was their mothers, uncles etc. I am naturally much more interested than someone who is just selling the clock for quick cash. I have acquired some great clocks that have been passed down through family (see photos on this blog). They are not without issues but sometimes the story is just as exciting as the clock itself.

I get most of my clocks from online local for-sale sites that I can pick up within an hour or two from where I live. I scour the sites everyday and will sometimes send out emails to sellers without seriously considering a purchase but occasionally their reply piques my interest. I have had one very bad experience with an EBay clock purchase so I try to stay away from them (not saying I wouldn’t in the future).

Read the article and tell me if you agree.

May 2, 2017

Seth Thomas Adamantine mantel clock – time to give it a little love

Front and back plates from a Seth Thomas mantel clock

Seth Thomas Adamantine time and strike mantel clock

I am servicing the first antique clock I ever bought. After having serviced many others it is time to give this clock a little love.

Some years ago (2000) my wife and I were traveling around Nova Scotia and stopped in a little village called Blockhouse. We found an antique store, walked in and never intended to buy an antique clock that day but left with an American Seth Thomas Adamantine mantel clock. It looked like it was worth many more times than we paid for it. We left the store thinking we had stolen it.

My research revealed that thousands were made and the price we paid at the time likely reflected its true value. The clock came home and sat on top of our piano and looked great. For a couple of years I wound it up religiously and marveled at its beautiful marbleized case and the sound of the gong on the hour and the bell on the half hour. I stopped winding it, let it sit on the piano and ignored it. About 5 years ago as I began to build my collection of vintage and antique clocks I wound it up and have kept it running ever since.

These clocks have become known to collectors as “Black Mantel Clocks”, and were popular from 1880 to 1931. Adamantine veneer was developed by the Celluloid Manufacturing Company of New York City, and was covered by U.S. Patent dated September 7, 1880. Seth Thomas Clock Company purchased the right to use the Adamantine veneer in 1881. At that time Seth Thomas stamped the year of manufacture on the bottom of each case. Though somewhat difficult to read the date on this particular clock is 1907.

Each clock I added to my collection needed some work and so I left the ST thinking that one day I would service it. Despite the fact that I kept it oiled, displayed it in a relatively dry dust free environment, it needed a good cleaning and a little bushing work.

Once you take a movement out of its case you begin to discover it’s little secrets. I immediately noticed a stripped speed regulating gear. The regulator arbour runs through the plates and is connected to the pendulum hanger to slow or speed up the clock. The rate adjustment is on the front of the clock and the smaller end of a double-sided key is used to speed and slow down the clock. I observed a rate adjustment screw on the pendulum bob. The “newer” bob had evidently been added at some point in the clock’s life to replace the stripped gear. The other possibility is that it might have had both. I have seen French clocks with both a front rate adjustment and an adjustable bob.

Regulating arbour — Regulating gear is stripped

The movement was taken apart and the parts were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner.

Bushing wear was not an excessive but enough to justify installing 4 bushings; S2 front, T2 front, and escape wheel, both front and back plates. Putting the movement back together is relatively easy though it is always frustrating positioning the helper springs and levers in place as you move the pivots into their holes. It takes me a few attempts to get the strike side gears and levers correctly aligned. The stop wheel, stop lever, maintenance lever and count wheel hook take a little trial and error and it not something I have managed to get right the first time.

Once back together the movement was oiled and placed back into it’s case. It should run reliably for years to come. Save for a slight aging of the clock face the clock is in excellent original condition.

Antique Seth Thomas Adamantine clocks look great on any mantel.

April 22, 2017

The language of the clock world amazes me

I am always intrigued by the language of the clock world. Here are some terms that I have learned in the past year.

Foxing:

clock face showing rust staining — Clock face showing brown staining

This is a more common problem than I thought. It is unsightly feature of clock dial faces and might be a cause for concern to some collectors. This phenomenon is caused by mold growth on paper in high (over 50%) humidity. Over time the brown spots coalesce to form large areas of brown. Treatment with chlorine bleach is probably ill-advised, because it will cause metal corrosion. CLR is also not recommended because CLR is an acid. Paper conservators treat this with sodium boro-hydride, or with borax (which needs to be washed out).

Verdigris:

Verdigris is a bright bluish-green encrustation or patina formed on copper or brass by atmospheric oxidation, consisting of basic copper carbonate. You can see the greenish hue on the back of this century old antique carriage clock. Immersing the movement pieces in diluted Horolene is said to be one effective solution.

End Shake

End Shake is a term used to describe the movement of the pivot within a pivot hole. If the pivot is too tight there will excessive friction and the clock will not run. There must be some perceptible end-play (end shake) and when released the arbor should drop back down to rest against the bottom plate. A too tight pivot hole can be remedied with a smoothing broach available at any clock supplier.

“Normandy Chimes” are reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy, France

Normandy strike

A clock, made by Gilbert, that strikes the hours and halves on two chime rods. Gilbert called this the “Normandy Chime” as it was reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy (Corneville) in France and it was the precursor to the Bim-Bam clock.

Harfen gong

A patented 4-hammer gong by Gustav Becker that has four rods tuned to give a medium-deep “harp” sound when struck, the origin of the gong name “Harfen (Harp) Gong”. The Gong Base has “Oest. Pat” cast into the metal showing the specific patent for this design was Austrian.

Pilasters

Columns or posts that are found on the sides of a tall shelf clock or tall clock running vertically. These are decorative, but also add strength to the cabinet.

Tribology

The study of friction, wear, lubrication, and the design of bearings; the science of interacting surfaces in relative motion. This is the reason why engine oil and many other kinds of oil should not be used on a clcok. Engine oil is designed to be hydrophilic (absorb or dissolve in water) and coat internal parts which is the opposite of what clock oil is designed to do.

Spandrels

The almost triangular space between one side of the outer curve of an arch found on clock faces.

Rathburn Bushings

Bushing a clock without disassembling is never a good thing. For most purposes Rathburn Bushings are no-no and for those who are really desperate they are at best, a band-aid treatment. I have read about them and seen photos but have never actually seen one in a clock but for about $8 on that old familiar auction site you can buy a package of 10. To install, one places a Rathburn bushing over a worn pivot hole and screw or solder onto the plate. Not my preferred choice for clock repair.

Helper springs

I am clear on the function of helper springs/wires but what I have learned is that the gauge of wire is a function of where the spring is located on the movement. Let’s begin by describing the purpose of helper springs. They might look like they have been added later but they are actually part of the original manufacture and their purpose is to maintain tension on lifting levers, locking levers and hammers. What I did not realize until recently is that the gauge of wire is important for the amount of strength required for a particular lever. Lower gauge (thicker) wire is used for hammer levers because it is stronger and more tension is required to strike the gong/rod and higher (thinner) gauge wire is used for maintenance levers which require less tension. In the photo below you can see a thin helper wire that looks like it was wound by hand (not by me) on the lever arbor.

Helper wire for Sessions movement — Helper wire (indicated by arrow) for Sessions movement

Chinoserie: is the European interpretation and imitation of Chinese and East Asian artistic traditions, especially in the decorative arts, garden design, architecture, literature, theater, musical performances and clocks. The pagoda style bonnet in this Scottish made Hugh Gordon long-case clock is a good example of a chinoserie influence.

Hugh Gordon throat — Hugh Gordon long-case clock in the Chinoserie style

There you have it. These are just a few of the terms I learned in the past year. Clock collecting and repair is such a fascinating hobby; it expands ones vocabulary and is a source of new and interesting words every day.

April 16, 2017

Tick-Talk Tuesday #3 – question about Arthur Pequegnat clocks

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

Arthur Pequegnat clocks were made between 1908 and 1941 in Berlin (now Kitchener), Ontario. Those produced before 1917 had “Berlin” inscribed on the dial face. The town of Berlin from 1854 until 1912 became the City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916. The name Berlin was associated with the war against Germany consequently the decision was made by city officials to change the name to Kitchener midway through the First World War. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario (Canada). Arthur Pequegnat clocks were the only wholly made Canadian clocks (aside from a short run of clocks made by the Canada Clock Company and later the Hamilton Clock Company in the 1870s) and are particularly sought after by Canadian collectors.

AO from Ontario writes, “Good Morning Ron, I live in Ontario (Canada) and have two Pequegnat clocks I am thinking of selling. Could you give me an idea of how much they are worth? The mantel clock is an Oxford. Thank you.

The clocks she mentions in her email are the Arthur Pequegnat Oxford mantel clock (time and strike) and the King Edward time-only wall clock missing the King Edward lower drop decal.

King Edward with 15 day Moncton movement showing decal from the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario

I replied. “I looked at your photos and have some comments. The time-only wall clock is known as the King Edward. From the photo yours seems to look intact save for the missing decal in the lower drop. A King Edward decal should be in the middle of the glass panel. It appears to be replacement glass which will certainly affect the value. However you should be able to get in the $600 to $1000 range for your King Edward clock. If you are selling in Canada where collectors are attracted to Pequegnat clocks because they are wholly Canadian made you should do reasonably well. If the clock has been recently serviced you can expect to price it a little higher.

Mantel clocks always command lower prices but your Oxford should easily sell in the $400 range. I would price both slightly higher and see what responses you get.”

AOs reply, ” Hi again Ron, A dealer has offered me $750.00 for both clocks. Is that reasonable knowing that he has to resell them?”

I advised AO that they should dicker a bit and that the dealer certainly knows the value. I suggested that she could also try to sell it on an online for-sale site.

AO replied later and said they posted the clock on a for-sale site and the same dealer offered $650 for the King Edward.

I emailed her again asking how they made out with the sale. AO replied and said the dealer backed out and the clocks are still for sale.

UPDATE: AO wrote 1 week later and said she has sold them both for $350 more that the first offer. She is very pleased.

April 4, 2017

My Gustav Becker – one year later

Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator Braunau factory circa 1902

It has been one year since my wife presented me with a Vienna Regulator wall clock as a retirement gift. I was in heaven! I always wanted a Gustav Becker clock. I thought it was the holy grail of clocks. As I delve more deeply into this hobby and have the benefit of a greater knowledge of the world of clocks this past year I am learning that there were other more desirable makers of that period (1850s to 1900) but I have my Gustav Becker and I have no regrets.

It has been an interesting time and one of the most significant horological experiences for me in the past year. This clock has taught me a lot.

Gustav Becker 2 weight clock — The hands may look nice but they are incorrect for the period

This was a project clock and my first experience with a non-working clock that bought with it a number of not insurmountable issues. The side and front glass panels may look original but they are replacements after the glass broke during shipping. I brought it to a local glass shop and they installed the glass. I should have bought a old window with the wavy glass to use as a replacement as one reader suggested. I just did not think of it at the time.

The original movement was missing vital strike side parts

The original movement was missing vital strike side parts. Fighting with the seller who misrepresented the condition of the movement got me nowhere. I had to find a replacement movement and it had to be from Gustav Becker’s Braunau factory. Finally, I located a donor movement from Poland. The serial number on the Poland movement told me that it was 16 years newer. Some minor details differentiated the older and newer movement but it was exactly what I was looking for. It was a perfect fit for the case and correct for the pendulum length.

To the casual observer it is a beautiful wall clock befitting the grand period of German clock-making a century ago

What have I learned this past year? I put more than three hundred dollars of repairs into this clock above and beyond the original cost, much more money than the clock is worth. Don’t even get me started on import duties and shipping from the US. I am still riled about that. I am extremely reluctant to make any future clock purchases that require shipping by mail/courier. Others have had positive experiences with shipped clocks – I did not. I find it too much of a gamble. I prefer to buy my clocks in person! Though I won’t go into further detail, this was not a positive buying experience and after a year I am still fighting for compensation from the seller.

How does it look on the wall? A trained eye will see the minor incongruities. To the casual observer it is a beautiful wall clock befitting the grand period of German clock-making a century ago.

April 1, 2017

How to buy a clock on Craigslist, Kijiji, Gumtree and so on…..And this is what I bought

Circa 1890 French Black Marble mantel clock

It is a French mantel or shelf clock. I have no idea of the maker but it is an antique (over 100 years old), possibly 1890 to 1900. It has “Marque Deposse” stamped on the back plate but that simply means “trademark” in French. It is not a maker’s name. The clock is 11 inches high by 8 inches wide by 5 inches deep.

It is a time and strike movement on a coil gong. Unfortunately, the strike side does not work though the seller disclosed that to me before I bought the clock. I can feel the tension of the spring when I turn the key in the arbor but the spring does not engage the click, so, a broken or disconnected click I presume. The previous owner described it as having a melodious sounding gong. I would love to hear it. I wondered if the spring barrels could be taken out without separating the plates but further research has revealed that the movement must be dis-assembled.

The clock dial face is in two sections. The brass inner pan is surrounded by a porcelain dial with painted numbers. The dial door is flat glazing in a brass bezel with a high quality “hidden” hinge. A taper pin holds the delicately crafted hands. There is a smaller arbor, a speed regulator above the 12, which allows more precise tuning in concert with a speed adjustment on the pendulum.

Aside from numbers on the back plate, an identical batch number on the pendulum and the Marque Deposee stamping, there is no makers mark. There may be a mark on the gong block but I won’t know until I release the nut on the base panel to take it out from underneath the clock. The numbers on the back plate are 3851-55. The number 5 5 is the pendulum length as in 5 and 5/12 French inches.

Adjustable pendulum — Front side of pendulum

The movement appears to be of superior quality though common in a number of higher end French clocks. From what I can determine, the movement can be taken out of the case by undoing the two screws that go through the back bezel into the brass straps that protrude through the case from the front bezel. The movement should come out through the front once the two screws are released. The movement looks clean and there is sufficient oil in the pivots (no black or green gunk). I have other projects on the go so it might take me some time to take the movement out for inspection but for the time being I will let it run to regulate it.

The Corinthian style case is very heavy and is quite possibly Dinant Belgian Black Marble. Aside from the non-functioning strike side there are other issues. One is a very noticeable chip on the bottom right corner of the base which you can see in the photo below and the other is a small chip in the top left corner which is less visible. Close-up that larger chunk out of the corner looks ugly; from a distance it is hardly visible.

The worst of two chips, bottom right corner

Despite the slight damage the overall look is impressive. Most of what I see is well preserved. Indeed, it is a very attractive and stately antique French mantel clock that now occupies a prominent place in our family room.

Who made it? Unless there is a maker’s mark on the gong block or somewhere else on the movement, I may never know.

March 13, 2017

Why a Vienna Regulator clock is not a regulator

This article will explore the notion that a Vienna Regulator clock is not a true regulator. I realize that any discussion of regulator clocks produces a wide variety of conflicting opinions, nevertheless, here is my take subject of the Vienna Regulator and why it is not a true regulator.

The word “regulator” is loosely defined but according to this definition it is a master clock, usually of great accuracy, against which other clocks are checked. Respected collectors like Derek Roberts tend to stay away from defining a regulator clock and instead refer to them as precision pendulum clocks. In this article I will present three examples for the reader to consider.

Every clock that has the word regulator on it is not a regulator

Every clock that has the word regulator on it is not a regulator. Think about it. Why would a clock manufacturer put the word “regulator ” on a clock? It is simply a marketing ploy. The term “regulator” is one that connotes accuracy but in the frantic world of clock marketing it is a word that sells plenty of clocks.

If it was expressly designed as a precision pendulum clock it can be called a regulator

Definition of a regulator

It is not difficult to define a “regulator” by its mechanical characteristics. Regulator clocks were invented in the late 18th century as a quest for greater timekeeping accuracy. If the clock was designed as a precision pendulum clock it can be called a regulator. The principle features of a regulator clock are:

Quality weight driven device,
With maintaining power,
A heavy pendulum (not necessarily mercury),
Generally eight-day movement, though some are more than 8 days,
Has some form of temperature control compensation,
Has a seconds dial,
Is 60 beats per minute,
Has one gear train
Features a deadbeat or pinwheel escapement and
Is expressly engineered to keep accurate time.

Complicated features like calendars and strike trains are omitted in the quest for accuracy. Regulators were (are) capable of extreme accuracy for a mechanical clock.

Does the addition of a strike train take a clock out of the regulator category? In theory, yes. The strike train takes some of the accuracy out of the clock, as the time train produces more friction when lifting the strike levers. If we accept the definition of a regulator as an extremely accurate clock to be used as a time standard, you will not find a strike train on these clocks.

Here are three examples

Example number 1. Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1, A Handsome Clock, fitted with a Movement which is un-excelled”, Beautiful Finish on both Movement and Case, (Arthur Pequegnat advertisement)

The Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1 clock is often compared to the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 as a precision regulator. Many Regulator #1 clocks found their way into offices and rail stations all across Canada. The Regulator #1 is the best timekeeper made by The Pequegnat Clock Company of Kitchener Ontario (Canada). The company states this in it’s advertising: “A Handsome Clock, fitted with a Movement which is un-excelled“, Beautiful Finish on both Movement and Case” and “The Finest Office Clock Made”! They are weight driven, time-only, at 80 beats per minute, had a deadbeat escapement, with heavy pendulum, eight day movement with a brass weight hung on an iron bracket, maintaining power, a seconds dial and were designed to keep accurate time. It was a reasonably accurate clock used as a time standard.

However, some would argue that at 80 beats per minute it would not be considered a true regulator.

Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1 wall clock — Is this Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1 a regulator?

Example number 2. Mauthe “Horse Crown” time and strike spring driven wall clock.

The clock you see in the photo below is typically advertised on online for-sale sites as a “Vienna Regulator”. It is an attractively designed 1890s spring driven, time and strike clock made by Frederick Mauthe. Those individuals who sell these clocks have no hesitation in calling them Regulators. Let’s apply the definition above.

Is this a precision regulator?
A spring driven movement disqualifies it immediately.
Is it not capable of extreme accuracy.
It is 116 beats per minute
Was it conceived and designed as a precision clock? No!

RS Finial added (3) — Is this Mauthe horse crown wall clock a Vienna Regulator?

Example number 3. Miniature one-weight Vienna Regulator

This is an Austro-Hungarian era time-only weight driven clock made in the early 1870s. Many would accept this as a Vienna Regulator and would have no hesitation advertising it as such. It has a deadbeat escapement, it has one weight, is a time-only movement, has a heavy pendulum, with an eight day running time and has maintaining power.

one-weight Vienna wall clock — Is this one-weight miniature Vienna wall clock a regulator?

Let’s apply the definition above.

Is this a regulator? No!
There is no seconds dial, and, is
80 beats per minute
Is it capable of extreme accuracy. No!
Was it specifically designed as a precision clock? No!

Granted, it is capable of some accuracy but it is not a reference timepiece. However, there is little doubt that some post office and rail clocks in the Vienna style such as this Wilhelm Bauer post office wall clock (below) were considered “regulators” in their day when common folk set their watches and clocks by them.

Is this Wilhelm Bauer post office clock a regulator?

The Vienna Regulator clock and its characteristics

The Vienna Regulator is a particular style of clock made in Germania or the Austrian empire. They are characterized by finely crafted (ornate at times) cases with accurate movements. While they were capable of keeping good time, they were not designed as a precision instrument and were not capable of extreme accuracy. They have some but not all the characteristics of a regulator but they are not a true regulator. While the Vienna Regulator may not be true regulator it reflected not only the style and craftsmanship of the period they were made but the quest for accuracy. No one can argue that the best workmanship and attention to detail were put into the many clocks that were produced during what some might call the pinnacle of clock design and engineering.

As much as they are called regulators the three examples presented above are not true regulators. Regulators were (are) capable of extreme accuracy for a mechanical clock and nothing I have in my collection remotely qualifies as a regulator.

However, in the world of clock collecting and repair it is perfectly acceptable to continue referring to them as regulators since they are generally accepted as such. The word regulator has become part of the lexicon of collectors even if they do not strictly fall within the definition of a true regulator clock.

February 20, 2017

Halifax Explosion and the Junghans Crispi clock – Part 3.5 – Postscript

My current project is an antique German Junghans time and strike spring driven wall clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. It was made in Schwenningen, Germany. It came to me as a box of parts. To some a box of clock parts and pieces is discouraging but to me it is a challenge.

This is Part 3.5 of a now three point five part series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock.

This is Part III and a half of a series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock. In Part I described the circumstances by which I came across this clock and it’s incredible story as a survivor of the Halifax Explosion on Dec 6, 1917. In Part II I walk the reader through the servicing of the time and strike movement. In Part III I talk about the challenges of restoring the case.

I felt compelled to write Part 3.5 of the series showing the work I completed on the crown and the additional case work. I wasn’t sure how far I would go in restoring the case but the top finials are so essential to the final look of the clock that I decided to add these important elements.

The original finials might have been a little taller and wider much like the bottom centre finial

I bought three 3 and 3/4 inch finials from Timesavers. A wood lathe would have been ideal if I had one. I tried to imagine how the original finials looked and took a chance on what I felt were the most ornate without being too ostentatious. I believe they do it justice and complete the clock. The original finials might have been a little taller and wider much like the bottom centre finial but Timesavers has a rather limited selection. If I come across something closer in design in the future I can simply pull these out since they are not glued in place.

As you can see above, I have clamped the final bases to the crown and test fit the three top finials which had just been given their first coat of stain. The support post is made of oak and anchors the crown to the case. It will eventually be screwed in place. The post not only attaches the crown to the top of the case but also supports the middle finial base (next photo).

The lion’s head on the crown has also been nailed in place using its existing holes.

The case has an unusual number of decorative nails and buttons. Fortunately most of these decorative trim items came with the clock. Everything you see in the photo above is original save for the upper two floral brass buttons. Years of grime and dirt has been removed from the original decorative buttons, nails and pins.

Crown in place with all three finials — Crown in place with all three new finials

The clock reflected the Victorian era (1837 to 1901) of showy complicated designs with an emphasis placed on bright and brassy surface decoration

The crown is in position although for the moment it is merely sitting in place. I have added two new decorative nails to the finial bases. Although they are not exactly in the style of the other decorative nails, they are in keeping with the period look of the clock. The two brass buttons on either side of the movement support bracket (above photo) are replacements. The buttons, nails and trim pieces on the top part of the case, are original and cleaned up nicely.

This is a full view of the case with all decorative nails, buttons and trim pieces attached. Below the movement support bracket and on the side columns are two half moon wood pieces (one round decorative pressed wood applique cut in half) that replicate the original detail.

The clock is very garish; some might even call it gaudy. Other clocks I have from this period (1899) are not as pretentious as this one. This look may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but it appeals to me. I am sure that it will always be an interesting conversation given its fascinating history. Overall, I would say that the clock accurately reflects the Victorian era (1837 to 1901) with showy complicated designs and an emphasis placed on bright and brassy surface decoration.

final look — Final look with crown attached and movement installed

The above photo shows the case with movement, pendulum, face, brass bezel and hands attached. At this point the clock is about 90% complete. The final steps in this project are securing the door to the frame with hinges purchased from a supplier, attaching the door catches, installing “new” glass, applying a protective top coat finish using Minwax semi gloss wipe-on poly and finding a way to replicate a wood trim insert piece on the left column just above the rectangular brass decorative piece.

The clock came without the glass and it obviously must be replaced. I managed to find an old glass window in my area with sufficient “waviness” to replicate the glass at the time. I will have the glass cut and installed by a repair shop locally.

In the final analysis is this a restoration, repair or a replication?

Much of the clock is original; the movement, the pendulum, coil gong and movement bracket as are the bottom base and top part of the case and the crown, the back board, the vertical columns and most of the decorative trim. What has been replaced is the box frame and the front piece that supports the right and left columns. The previous owner used contemporary materials and techniques to reconstruct the frame and front piece. Although not authentic, I have no real objection because much of what he has done is unseen. I have added or will have added some decorative trim pieces, new glass, 3 new finials, hinges and catches, finial bases, used yellow carpenter’s glue where absolutely necessary, stained the case and will remove the rust on the coil gong.

In the final analysis is this a restoration, repair or a replication? Perhaps all three. However, to the casual observer it is an attractive albeit brash, lovingly restored antique Junghans Crispi wall clock that fell off a wall, in Halifax, Nova Scotia on that fateful day, December 6, 1917.

I hope you enjoyed the series and if you have any comments, ideas or suggestions do not hesitate to leave me a message.

February 3, 2017

Hilarious and other interesting clock ads

I scour the online for-sale sites frequently and I am always amused by some of the clock ads that folks write. I wish I could post some pictures, some of the clocks are truly pathetic but copyright law prevents me from doing so but at least present the unique descriptions. None of the spelling errors are mine by the way.

Here we go:

“I have an old antique wined up clock works great runs real waits”

An ad for a Chinese wall clock similar to this Daniel Dakota

“Original Carillon 1960-70 antique 31-day winding clock perfect condition. Elegant design with brass hands and pendulum. Comes with original key. Selling to people with taste $300”

No this clock does not look good!

“I made this clock myself, looks pretty good I think. $10.00”

An ad for what looks like a bracket clock:

“red color wood, in nice shape, not working, needs guts”

Not sure I’d take a chance on this one.

“Great look needs clock looked at and bulb. If I get to fixing it it will be more”

This ebony Adamantine Seth Thomas similar to this Sessions better be made of gold.

$1750.00 Good Investment, Great Gift, Excellent Condition, 8 Day, Chimes on the hour, bell on half hour, very accurate. I have owned this clock for 9 years with no problems. Circa 1890. This range of Adamantine Clocks, are known to collectors as “Black Mantel Clocks”

Session Raven time and strike mantel clock

Ad from Value-Village. I thought one could always get great deals there but not any more. And for $600 wouldn’t you want to know the maker of the clock?

“Foreign Granddaughter’s clock, Art Deco – Solid Oak -8 day, quarterly chime , Slight damage to dial and hinge, Dimensions: 55″H x 9,5″@ x 9.5″ D , Price: was $899.00 Now: $599.00!”

And another stellar Value Village ad. Are they serious at Value Village? It looks exactly like this Forestville time and strike that I own:

“Forestville German Art Deco Clock , Wood, Westminster Chimes (quarterly), Key wind in good working condition. Ca 1920. Has some damage at top of Dial. Key, Dimensions: 22″W X 5″H Price: was $499.00 NOW $349.00!”

Forestville time and strike mantel clock

More ads

“royal adult on carriage clock; never used by bulova”

“Coo Coo Clock in excellant condition!”

“Beautiful antique crank clock. Still works great”

“Clock antique, brand new. Made out of wood, heavy and durable. Japan movement powered by one AA battery. Beautiful, antique, decorative. High 9 inch, wide 7 inch.
I live Dufferin x Finch $60”

“Antique Citizen wall clock in working condition. Comes with key. Made in Korea. Asking $125 or make my an offer!”

Chinese or Koren clock perhaps. These quite often sell for less that $50. I might consider a Korean or Japanese clock but I would never pay $150 for a Chinese one. I wonder what might happen if I offered less, would they threaten me!

“Vintage Beacon regulator 31 day keywind wall clock. They don’t make em like this anymore! Solid wood (not veneers) The movements keep excellent time. This clock is over 50 years old and works like new! We do not know the exact age as father in law brought it to Canada from Germany in the early 50s. Its in mint condition and works like new. Seriously nice sounding chimes Dimensions: 28in h x 16in w (at round face) x 6in deep Key included Serious enquiries only please. Price is NOT NEGOTIABLE! This means asking price of $150.00 is my final price.”

And others.

I have this clock but don’t have time to use it. Works fine.

Misfits clock works great from smoke free home

Jack Daniel’s promotional advertising wooden wall clock, would look great session room, rex room. Clock works $75 obo

January 30, 2017

Halifax Explosion and the Junghans Crispi clock – Part II – servicing the movement

Movement on test stand prior to cleaning

This is an antique German Junghans time and strike spring driven clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. It came to me as a box of parts. To some a box of clock parts and pieces is discouraging but to me it is a challenge.

Part II of a three part series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock.

This is Part II of a three part series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock. In Part I described the circumstances by which I came across this clock and it’s incredible story as a survivor of the Halifax Explosion of Dec 6, 1917.

This is a German count-wheel strike typically found in the lower lines of Mauthe, HAC and similar clocks. It is an open plate “bread and butter” movement, not of the highest of quality but well built and reliable. The count wheel is located to the rear between the plates and the mainsprings are enclosed in open barrels. There are no helper springs to worry about and all of the wheels are located in the centre and the upper side of the movement.

As you can see in the next two photos the movement was very dirty and I accepted the risk of running it for a day to see what issues might arise. I gave the pivots holes plenty of oil to mitigate any additional wear. What I found was a sticky hammer assembly that would malfunction intermittently which I attributed to dirt and grime buildup, otherwise the movement ran very well after not having run for 100 years. Imagine all that kinetic energy stored in the springs since 1917.

The movement is relatively easy to re-assemble but I had to install the lower centre wheel, the spring barrels and the centre cannon together with the top plate and then slide the gears in between the plates. Fortunately this process is not as difficult as it sounds but very different than laying the top plate right over the gears as you would in an American movement.

Mainspring barrel with years of dirt showing

I gave the pivots holes plenty of oil in the testing phase to mitigate any additional wear

I found everything within acceptable limits and decided that bushing work was not required

The accumulated grime of 100+ years came off following the ultrasonic cleaning. In fact I have never seen the ultrasonic solution so dirty. The plates cleaned up very well and I gave them an additional polishing with Brasso. After the parts came out of the ultrasonic I tested the movement for any evidence of excessive play and found everything within acceptable limits and decided that bushing work was not required. The pivot holes were pegged and the pivots were polished.

Springs were inspected and cleaned — Springs were inspected, cleaned and oiled

There were no cracks or unusual issues with the mainsprings though I found it curious that they were very clean with no rust. There was also very little lubricant remaining. The springs are somewhat tired as you might expect but I think there is enough power remaining for a full cycle so I decided not to replace them at this point. I applied Keystone mainspring oil to the springs once I returned them to their barrels.

With the movement back together, it is time to adjust the strike side. The strike wheels must be set up correctly with respect to each other ensuring that the third (hammer lifting star wheel) and fourth wheels (the strike cam) align with he count wheel. The warning pin on the last wheel (which actually protrudes from the plate) has to be high enough for sufficient rotation. In order to count the strikes properly this relationship must be right. Unfortunately, I can never get this correct the first time.

The servicing of the movement is not without headaches, however.

The servicing of the movement is not without headaches, however. I bent a pivot on the warning wheel which I managed to successfully straighten out. The hammer arbor paddle was barely touching the star wheel and while trying to adjust it, I accidentally snapped it off along with the retaining spring. Although the clock will go though the strike sequence the gong will obviously not sound. I don’t have the tools to put in a new paddle so I will have to get that attended to somehow. I managed to correctly adjust the strike side but the clock mysteriously stops after about an hour or so. Something is definitely amiss and more investigation is required.

I have had more success with the case restoration that you will read about in Part III. In the meantime I have to constantly remind myself that this movement has not been running in 100 years!

January 20, 2017

Halifax Explosion and the Junghans Crispi clock – Part I – the plan

This is what happens when you get a clock in a box. Call it a collection of parts, pieces and dust. This is an antique German Junghans time and strike spring driven clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. There is no serial number on the movement, dating the clock to 1899 or earlier (in 1900 Junghans began to number their movements). To some a box of clock pieces is discouraging but to me it is a challenge.

It was advertised on a local online for-sale site as a clock that fell off a wall during the Halifax Explosion and I thought, well, that’s an intriguing story! As most Canadians know, the Halifax Explosion was a significant event in Canada 100 years ago.

On the morning of 6 December 1917 the SS Mont Blanc a French cargo ship laden with high explosives and Benzol collided with the Norwegian vessel SS Imo in the Narrows, a strait connecting the upper Halifax harbour to Bedford Basin. A fire on board the French ship ignited her cargo, causing a large explosion that devastated the Richmond District of Halifax. Approximately 2,000 people were killed by blast, debris, fires and collapsed buildings, and an estimated 9,000 others were injured.

The result was the largest human-made explosion prior to the detonation of the first atomic bombs in 1945. Nearly all structures within an 800-metre (2,600 ft) radius, including the entire community of Richmond, were obliterated. This clock is a witness to that day. In 1918, Halifax sent a Christmas tree to the City of Boston in thanks and remembrance for the help that the Boston Red Cross and the Massachusetts Public Safety Committee provided immediately after the disaster. That tradition carries through to this day.

The case is cleaned up and we are visualizing where the parts go

It appears that the parts have literally sat in a box for the past 100 years.

The blast not only shattered the glass panels but heavily damaged the box frame. It appears that most of the parts have literally sat in a box for the past 100 years. I cannot imagine when the movement last worked, probably ticking its last on that fateful morning in December. Since the box frame was damaged beyond repair following the explosion, the seller, an amateur woodworker, built a new frame made of softwood and oak veneers some 30 years ago. You can see the lighter coloured pieces in the photo below that were never stained and finished. He admits that he knows nothing about clocks and eventually lost interest in the project. I am impressed with his skills since the work on the frame looks solid and well constructed.

Top centre final is missing as well as two other finials

The top centre final is missing, two other finials and some small trim pieces

Why was he letting it go? He said there had been a change in his life and it was time to move on. When I asked him about the history of the clock he said that his wife’s grandparents lived on Princess Place in North End Halifax. Princess Place is further south of the main area of devastation so houses in that area would have sustained heavy structural damage. The clock was blown off the wall by the blast wave. The clock remained in the family all these years, the seller having received it from his wife’s aunt.

I took it home stared at the box for a while trying to decided whether or not I made the right decision. I then set to determine what steps I should take to restore this fine clock. I poked through the box to see what was there and began to itemize the parts, arranging them on the case as best I could and proceeded to clean the case and determine the next steps. I was fortunate to have had someone send me the actual catalog image of the clock which you can see below.

The clock is called the Crispi by Yunghans. Yunghans is a reputable German clock-maker and continues in the watch business to this day. This is what the clock should look like and it will be a excellent guide for restoration. There will be obviously be some subtle differences between my clock and the clock in the catalog when the project is completed but to the casual eye it will look exactly the same.

The Crispi in the 1902 Yunghans catalog — The Crispi model in the 1902 Junghans catalog

I have ordered the following parts from Timesavers; 3 new finials in the style that best fits the clock, 2 door hinges, 2 door latches and some trim pieces. I will have to build the bases for the finials from scratch. The lower section of an oak spindle will do just fine. There are other trim items that are missing but I will strategically arrange the remaining trim pieces as best I can.

The best news is that the movement is complete and in working order. The movement ran for a day on a test stand before I stopped it. It needs a very thorough cleaning which will be the next step in this project.

In Part II I will describe cleaning the movement and any issues that may arise as a result of disassembly.

In Part III I will explain the procedures involved in the case restoration once the remaining parts arrive.

An exciting little project indeed!

January 15, 2017

The schoolhouse clock that was never called the schoolhouse clock

My recent acquisition of another schoolhouse clock stimulated my curiosity and prompted me to do some research on the origin of the name. In this article I will describe my thoughts on how the schoolhouse clock came to be and my most recent Sessions wall clock purchase.

During my research I found it very interesting that little can be found regarding the history of the schoolhouse clock. I realize that many older readers growing up in the rural areas of Canada and elsewhere in North American have fond memories of the one-room schoolhouse with a large clock in either the front or the back of a classroom. I did not live that experience rather, when I was young and attending a large urban school the Simplex master / slave clock is the one I remember best.

The schoolhouse clock that I bought recently adds to my modest collection of three schoolhouse clocks. Given that I spent many years as an educator, it seems only fitting that I would have an interest in schoolhouse clocks. My schoolhouse clocks are all a similar style; short drop octagon, constructed of oak, brass dial bezel, bottom glazed access sash, 12 inch dial or 9 inches as in this case of this clock and the Waterbury pictured below. Although 9 inch clocks were used in schoolhouses they were also found in office or workplace settings.

They were not called a schoolhouse clock when they were made

Schoolhouse clocks were the standard design for early North American school houses because of their larger, easy to read dials. These distinctive clocks were hung in many schools rooms across Canada. The majority had simple but tough time-only movements and some even came with a calendar function. Occasionally they were ordered with time and strike movements but the cheapest and most popular versions were time-only. This type of clock had a very utilitarian look and function.

They were not always called schoolhouse clocks. None of the labels on my clocks have the word “schoolhouse” written on them and are either described as a”drop Octagon” in the case of this Sessions or have a specific model name. The term schoolhouse clock was not applied to them when they were made but came to be known as a particular style of clock found in school settings by later collectors. If a particular style was ordered by a school authority makers might have informally described them as clocks for schools or “school clocks”. In any event, the term has become a permanent part of the clock collector language.

With a swinging pendulum visible from a distance the clock can easily be seen running and the open-door bottom access sash allowed for restarting and adjusting the rate. In some clock collecting circles it is said that schoolhouse clocks are a derivative of the English drop dial fusee clock, an example of which can be seen here. Drop dials were produced in the late 18th through to the 19th century and closely resembled the schoolhouse clock. Unlike spring-driven schoolhouse clocks, fusee clocks have conical construction from which a chain or gut-line is pulled by the mainspring barrel allowing the power of the mainspring to be released evenly thus assuring better accuracy.

When I am in the process of buying a clock I always ask the seller this question. “How much do you know about this clock?”

When I am in the process of buying a clock I always ask the question. “How much do you know about this clock?”. I always ask this question because I am interested in a clock’s provenance and some of the stories are quite intriguing. The seller, a man in his late fifties, thought about it for a moment and said, “Well, I’ve had it since I was 14”. The clock came out of a decommissioned one-room schoolhouse in a small town called Springhill, Nova Scotia (Canada). However, when I first saw the clock I said to him, “It looks like a nice office clock”. The seller quickly corrected me and said, “It’s a schoolhouse clock”. “It runs for a little bit and then stops, maybe you can do something with it”, he added.

It is a 1920’s vintage Sessions Drop Octagon wall clock. It has a solid medium dark oak case with original hands, ornate pressed brass pendulum bob, solid brass bezel, 80% of an intact label on backboard, tin dial pan and stenciled lower glazing on the sash. The paper dial is original but it is heavily “foxed”. The movement is 8-day time only. The dimensions of the clock are a 9″ diameter dial, 19″ high, 13 1/2″ wide by 4″ deep. It is in reasonably good condition given it’s age and for $20 it was quite a bargain. It is also intact; there are no missing or broken pieces.

sessions-drop-octogon time-only movement — Sessions time-only movement

I don’t think this clock has been run in quite some time.

I took it home, hung it on the wall and true to what the seller said it would run less than a minute and stop. I noticed a rubbing sound around the pendulum area as it was running. The pendulum bob was hitting against the inside front of the case. I took the movement out and observed a bent crutch rod, corrected it, put it on a test stand and it ran immediately. As expected the movement had quite a bit of grime and required attention but it ran for a day before I took it apart for a thorough servicing. I don’t think this clock has been run in quite some time.

I found it curious that the suspension spring was soldered where the spring hooks into the top block. It likely kept slipping off and solder was used to keep it in place. In any event, the spring cannot be taken out without first removing the solder! The clock is in very good overall condition for it’s age and the movement was not as dirty as I first thought. The pivots are in decent condition for the most part and there is minimal wear overall. The movement was disassembled, cleaned and in the process I decided to install two bushings for added insurance, one on the escape wheel (front plate) and the other on an intermediate wheel (front plate). The movement was tested, put in beat and reinstalled back into it’s case.

I may replace the paper dial but I am going to see if I can live with it for the time being.

The dial has many brownish spots as you can see in the next photo. The clock had to have been in a moist environment for a long period for the paper to discolour. My two options are, one, leave as is or, two, replace with a paper dial. I may replace the paper dial but I am going to see if I can live with it for the time being. The brass bezel cleaned up well but the exposed tin surrounding the paper dial has blackish areas which I managed to reduce with CLR but could not totally eliminate. Of course, I later learned that CLR is really not appropriate for this purpose as it is an acid.

The case has years of grime which was easily remedied with Murphy’s soap and water. It cleaned up very nicely. Following the cleaning I gave the case a light coat of shellac to restore the luster of the oak. It looks good and it runs well.

My other drop octagon clocks are a Waterbury Arion, an unknown Ansonia and an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II.

rs-bezel-and-glass-on-a-waterbury-_1 — This Waterbury Arion is 19 inches long

RS April 16 — Ansonia short drop octagon, model unknown, 12 inch dial

AP repaired_3 — Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II, 12 inch dial

Time-only movements are the easiest to work on and a very good movement to learn on.

Time-only movements are the easiest to work on and a very good movement to learn on. If you are a beginner in clock collecting and repair clocks such as this are satisfying clocks to work on and presents few challenges. I am happy that I managed to bring this particular clock back to it’s former schoolhouse glory.

The term schoolhouse clock is a term that was not applied when they were made but came to be known as a particular style of clock found in school settings by later collectors. The schoolhouse clock is such an endearing name that when one thinks of a schoolhouse clock the memory of these specific styles of clock immediately comes to mind.

January 4, 2017

2016 – Time to reflect, a year in summary

Pendulum bob for Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock

I am a retired college professor based in Nova Scotia Canada, live in a little village just outside Truro and collect vintage and antique clocks that I repair and maintain. I also write about horological areas of interest and of interesting clocks and clock stories that I encounter on my travels.

In the spring of 2015 I decided to write a blog about clocks. The first few months were a struggle to decide what material would be of interest to those who not only collect antique and vintage clocks but those few with just a passing interest. As the months went by I began to realize that the world of clock collecting and repair is incredibly vast and I discovered that there is a lot for me to learn. As I expand my knowledge of clock and collecting and repair I am also realizing that there is a lot I do not know.

This blog has given me an opportunity to profile my own clock collection, walk the reader through the challenges of restoring and repairing my clocks and the learning I have gained from the experience as well as talking about horological areas of interest.

My office showing clock repair tools — My office showing tools and my work area

Let’s review 2016.

Some statistics. As I write this article my blog has exceeded 17,000 views, 33% of which are from United States, 17% are from Canada and the remainder are from around the world including the United Kingdom, Australia, Romania, Germany, India, The Netherlands, South Africa, Malaysia and 80 other countries, even 5 visitors from Cuba (and I thought they did not have access to the internet). I receive between 40-50 comments per month on average. The top 5 articles this year were:

Mauthe Mantel Clock
Daniel Dakota Wall Clock
Sessions Westminster A Mantel Clock
Forestville Mantel Clock
U.M. Muller Box Clock

As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back.

As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back. My visitors view an average of 1.8 articles per visit and I have 50-60 views on a typical day. I am now receiving as many views per month as I did in the first 8 months of the blog. My goal is to to provide enough stimulating content so that visitors want to return. I post 8 articles a month, usually spaced 4-5 days apart, on various topics of interest. I also attempt to appeal to all facets of clock collecting and repair from profiling my own acquisitions and experiences restoring and repairing my clocks to articles of general interest usually with some historical horological context.

Time side spring is removed — Servicing an American clock, removing the time mainspring

Centering prior to drilling — Bushing a movement using a centering tool

I have welcomed all comments and inquiries. I have received a number of fascinating comments from people who typically ask me how much their clock is worth, particular problems they have with their clock, information about the history of their clock and suggestions for improving my workflow. I answer all questions to the best of my ability but I make no pretense that I am a trained professional though my general knowledge of clock collecting and repair is growing exponentially. I have also received comments from those who more knowledgeable than I am and I welcome their expertise and perspective. I especially welcome the wisdom and insights from popular commenters such as JC and Catalin at Blog Timbrofil.

If you are a regular reader you will continue to see a number of what I hope are interesting clock articles in the months to come

Now it is time to look to 2017. My intent is to write interesting articles about clocks in general as well as continuing to profile my modest but expanding collection of antique and vintage clocks. I also intend to explore special areas of interest particularly my growing fascination with lantern clocks and crystal regulators. If you are a regular reader you will continue to see a number of what I hope are interesting clock articles in the months to come.

Stay tuned and if there is an area of interest you would like to see me to explore, drop me a quick note.

Thanks for your support.

December 31, 2016

Why I love my Daniel Dakota wall clock

When I first started clock collecting and repair many people said to me, stay as far away as you can from those darned Chinese wall clocks. They are garbage! They have thin plates, are cheaply made with many stamped parts and they explode without warning. Not true! Oh, yes, they have thin plates and many stamped parts but they are actually quite reliable and don’t normally explode.

When I first heard the name Daniel Dakota many years ago I thought it must be some long established American company with a proud First Nations heritage. Whoa, was I wrong! It is a Chinese company and Daniel Dakota is a actually a registered trademark. This wonderful sounding American name no doubt eased this Chinese company’s penetration into the American market with tens of thousands of inexpensively made clocks that anyone could afford. Thousands of them are still working to this day despite the fact that many have never been serviced, a testament to just how tough they are.

The best thing about a Daniel Dakota clock is that you can pick one up for almost nothing. A barely running 1930s German box clock might set you back two or three hundred dollars but a perfectly preserved 1960s Chinese wall clock with “real wood” can be had for less than $50. I have two. I paid less than $40 for one and had the second one was given to me.

Of course, some folks think they are worth as much as a quality German antique clock. They often advertise them as antiques. Take these two ads on a online for-sale site?

“Original Daniel Dakota 1960-70 antique 31-day winding clock perfect condition. Elegant design with brass hands and pendulum. Comes with original key. Selling to people with taste $300”.

Well, people with taste and any knowledge of vintage/antique clocks would certainly pass on this one. This next ad is for a clock that is exactly like the one in the following photo.

“Beautifully Crafted Wood Pendulum Clock. Chimes on Hour & Once on the Half-Hour. Includes Winding Key.31 Day.Keeps perfect time, nice sounding chimes. Asking $250.00”

Converted from a mechanical clock — Daniel Dakota time and strike, sticker on bottom left says, “real wood”

I could go on and on. I see these ads almost every day. Yes, they are pretty and very plentiful but they are certainly not quality clocks. Do they last? If you take the time to service a 1960s or 1970s vintage mechanical one, thoroughly clean it and oil it, the clock will give you years of faithful service. It might not be the prettiest or the most accurate clock in your home but it is both reliable and dependable. The workmanship is, well, Chinese, which means that it is reasonably well put together (with real wood!) but there is zero evidence that a skilled craftsman spent hours toiling over your clock.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA — Daniel Dakota 31 day time and strike, my office clock

One feature I really like is winding the clock. Which way do I turn the key? Well, if you have a Daniel Dakota clock you can find little arrows which indicate the direction to turn the key above the winding arbours. What could go wrong!

Unless you know how to service your Daniel Dakota clock you might be deeply disappointed if you bring it in to a clock repair person (horologist). Many will refuse to touch it. I think it’s a snob thing. They will take one look at your prized clock, look at you sympathetically and say,

“it will cost far more than it’s worth to repair”

“I can’t get the parts”, or

“Would you like me to put a quartz movement in it?”

I have taken apart my two Daniel Dakota clocks many times. They have provided me with an excellent learning experience and they are a great entry point into the world of mechanical clocks because, well, if you make a mistake you can always salvage the parts for another or toss it out without feeling you’ve lost much on your investment. However, I doubt that I will acquire more Daniel Dakota clocks despite the fact that I like them. I will keep the two I have knowing that if I had to sell them I would get absolutely nothing for them and that’s perfectly fine with me.

I chuckle when I see those ads though.

December 17, 2016

Minimal Invasive intervention – repair, restore or conserve? The Ingraham Huron | A Case in Point

How Far Do You Go to Repair or Restore a Clock?

How far should one go to repair, restore, or conserve a clock without changing it in a significant way? Minimal invasive intervention is a term I “borrowed” from a clock forum I frequent. Some collectors argue that any work done on an antique clock detracts from its value—much like replacing the motor on an antique car. It may look nice, but it’s ultimately less desirable.

At the end of this article, I’ve included several questions that collectors might consider when faced with this dilemma.

When does performing too much work on a clock affect its collector value? If you go too far, does it lose its attraction as a collectible item? A true collector is often more interested in a movement that has never been touched than one that has been repaired or restored. But just how far should one go with a non-working vintage or antique clock? While it’s always desirable to have a running clock, most understand that getting a movement to actually function requires at least some invasive intervention—such as bushing or pivot reconstruction.

Repair implies correcting faults or poor servicing that may alter a clock from its original form.
Restoration involves rebuilding parts of the movement or case to return it to an “as-new” condition.
Conservation focuses on protecting and preserving a clock using effective methods to maintain its originality for as long as possible.

Some degree of intervention is not only necessary but, for some collectors, even desirable.

The Case of the Ingraham Huron Shelf Clock

To illustrate, let’s look at my 1878 Ingraham Huron time-and-strike shelf clock, an American-made piece with a uniquely designed rosewood case. For a 147-year-old clock, the case is in remarkable condition and always draws attention. The hands, pendulum, sash, and bezel hardware are all original. There are no cracks, breaks, or missing pieces. The case was cleaned with Murphy’s Oil Soap and water, followed by a light coat of shellac. The dial shows a natural buildup of grime that, while some may see it as unsightly, contributes to its authentic character—and that, I will not touch.

RS April 12th — _{Ingraham Huron shelf clock circa 1878}

The movement is original but bears evidence of poor past repairs. In small-town Nova Scotia, access to professional clockmakers was limited, so people often relied on local tinkerers to get their clocks running again. In those days, a clock was an appliance—something that needed to work, not a collector’s treasure. Quick and inexpensive fixes were the goal, and as a result, questionable methods were sometimes used. This movement shows plenty of solder, with misaligned gears and new pivot holes drilled into the plates. The soldering was likely done in the 1940s, when soldering guns became common.

RS Ingraham movement (2) — _{This lantern pinion has plenty of solder}

When I got it, the clock ran for two or three days on a full wind before stopping. A gentle nudge of the pendulum gets it going again, but it soon stops once more. From the front, little seems wrong, but once the movement is removed from the case, the problems become clear—particularly the invasive solder repairs.

Repair, Restore, or Conserve?

I brought the clock to a certified horologist, and we discussed which approach to take: repair, restore, or conserve? He shared a story about a customer who brought in a kitchen clock (also known as a “gingerbread” clock)—a family heirloom they wanted running again. These clocks are common today; thousands were made, and few have significant market value. Yet sentimental value often outweighs monetary worth. In such cases, he repairs the clock to the customer’s satisfaction but if the movement is beyond repair, he recommends replacing it with a period-correct one. Most customers accept this solution, but collectors recognize that a clock with a replacement movement holds little or no collector value.

RS Ingraham movement (4) — _{Piece added to the plate, second arrow shows new pivot hole}

In my case, the horologist advised that my Ingraham Huron’s movement should not be replaced. Instead, it should be carefully restored to its original condition.

Collectors are always on the hunt for untouched examples, but finding an antique clock that has never been altered is rare. Using this clock as an example, a repair might reduce its originality—and thus its value—while a proper restoration could increase both its appeal and desirability.

Questions for the Collector

When deciding how to approach an antique or vintage clock that needs work, I ask myself the following:

Is undoing the “damage” caused by an earlier poor repair considered an overly invasive procedure?
If the repair was done shortly after the clock was made and clearly documented, should it be left untouched?
Is a poor repair part of the clock’s historical provenance, and should it remain as-is?
Would bringing the movement back to its original state be considered a restoration or a repair?
In the case of the Ingraham Huron, does removing all the solder qualify as minimal invasive intervention?
Will the repair enhance or diminish the clock’s value?
Would choosing not to repair or restore it be considered conservation?

In my view, conservation represents the least invasive form of intervention, while repair and restoration involve progressively greater degrees of change.

So, how far would you go?

In the end, the question of how far to go in repairing or restoring a clock echoes the ancient Ship of Theseus paradox. When every part of a clock has been repaired, replaced, or renewed, does it remain the same clock? Perhaps the answer lies not in its parts but in its essence—the story it tells, the hands that have wound it, and the generations who have listened to it mark the passing of time. Whether we choose to repair, restore, or conserve, each decision reflects our own philosophy of preservation: what we value more—the clock’s originality, or its ability to keep time once again.

December 12, 2016

Is my clock worth fixing?

It is a question many clock owners face when confronted with a nonfunctional antique or vintage clock. Whether it’s a handed-down family heirloom, a vintage find from a flea market, or a sentimental gift, deciding whether to invest in repairs can feel daunting. Beyond its monetary value, a clock’s worth often lies in its history, craftsmanship, or the memories it holds. In this article, we’ll explore key factors to consider—such as the clock’s condition, sentimental significance, and potential repair costs—to help you determine whether restoring your clock is the right choice for you.

1) Sentimental value:

An antique clock passed down through generations often carries more than just the weight of its years; it holds the stories, traditions, and memories of a family or a special person. Such a clock may be destined to continue its legacy with future generations.

Similarly, a clock might hold personal significance as a cherished anniversary present, a thoughtful retirement gift, or a token of friendship. In these cases, the emotional value far outweighs its replacement value, making the clock truly “one of a kind” and irreplaceable. Repairing a clock with this kind of sentimental importance is unquestionably worthwhile. When entrusted to a trusted, professionally certified repair person (horologist), the restoration ensures its continued presence in your life, regardless of its resale value.

For instance, my 114-year-old Gustav Becker two-weight Vienna Regulator, a retirement gift from my wife, holds immense sentimental value. Initially purchased as a project clock on eBay, it required substantial investment to function correctly. Today, it looks stunning and runs beautifully, but repairing it wasn’t about the cost; it was about preserving something irreplaceable. In such cases, the expense of repair becomes less of an investment and more of a necessary operating cost to keep a beloved treasure alive.

Gustav Becker two weight regulator, a retirement gift from my dear wife

I own a Ridgeway grandfather clock that I plan to pass down to my children. It holds deep sentimental value, reminding me of a clock my wife and I nearly purchased over 30 years ago. At the time, we decided not to proceed with the deal but made a promise that we would one day own a grandfather clock like it. That promise was fulfilled in 2012 when we found a Ridgeway Hamilton Country grandfather clock, made in 1996 and in pristine condition. If and when it eventually requires repair, the cost may equal its market value, but to me, the repair would be well worth it. Its sentimental significance far outweighs any monetary considerations.

RS Ridgeway clock_2 — Ridgeway Hamilton Country Westminster chime tall clock

2) A decorative item: The second type of clock is one with no emotional value—purely a decorative piece that no longer works. Perhaps it was a flea market find you got running for a time, but now it has stopped. In this case, you have two options: let it sit as a decorative item or repair it. When considering repairs, the replacement value of the clock should play a key role in your decision. If the repair costs exceed the cost of replacing the clock, it may make more sense to simply replace it.

However, if you have the tools and skills to repair it yourself, weigh the cost of new parts against your time and effort. For quality clocks, even a full overhaul of the movement may cost less than the clock’s actual value. With common antique clocks, such as American mantel or wall clocks, repair costs often approach or even exceed their market value. For rare or unusual clocks, however, repairs are typically more economical relative to their value, making the investment worthwhile.

3) Collector value: The third category includes clocks with collector value.

If a clock has been purchased as an “investment,” for resale, or simply as part of a collection, the repair costs should not exceed its overall value. For high-grade clocks requiring repair, especially if parts are unavailable, it’s important to carefully consider whether repairing it is worthwhile. When selling a clock, remember that buyers almost always prefer one in working condition, and as original as possible, so minimal repairs may enhance its appeal and value.

For example, I recently acquired a miniature Vienna Regulator. Not only is it in good working order, but it is also in exceptional condition—an impressive feat for a clock that is 145 years old.

For collectors, determining a clock’s value can be challenging, especially with the significant fluctuations in clock prices in recent years. However, certain types of clocks, such as high-quality French bracket clocks, English lantern clocks, carriage clocks, and jeweler’s regulators, have managed to retain their value. Clocks that are unique, exquisitely crafted, low-production, or one-of-a-kind are typically far more valuable than common, mass-produced examples.

4) Quick re-sale: The final category includes clocks purchased for quick resale.

Many individuals buy and sell antique and vintage clocks purely for profit, often through online marketplaces or specialized sales. When acquiring a clock with the intent to resell, it’s important to factor in both the time and cost of repairs or parts needed to make it marketable. Since buyers almost always prefer a functioning clock, a fully serviced clock is not only more desirable but can also command a higher price than one left unserviced.

This Ingersoll-Waterbury mantel clock (photo above) was purchased at a flea market for a very reasonable price and has since been fully serviced. If I were to sell it, I would need to recover the initial purchase price along with the cost of my time and supplies.

It’s worth noting that many clocks sold on online marketplaces are marketed to unsuspecting buyers. Sellers often claim the clock is in “excellent running condition” while adding a caveat that it “may require adjustment after shipping.” If you’re involved in buying and selling, keep in mind that buyers are often looking for a bargain. Additionally, you may not always achieve the price you believe your clock is worth, so pricing realistically is essential.

Final thoughts

There are many reasons why people acquire antique and vintage clocks. Deciding whether they are worth keeping or repairing ultimately depends on your purpose—whether it’s for profit, sentimental value, or a passion for collecting, as it is for me. Each clock has its own story and value, and understanding your connection to it will guide your decision.

December 8, 2016

Antiquing on a Sunday afternoon

Carriage clock with Jeweler's inscription — Carriage clock with Jeweler’s inscription

Sadly the number of antique shops in Nova Scotia is dwindling. We were antiquing in the city of Halifax (Nova Scotia, Canada) this past spring and one of the store owners remarked that there used to be dozens of antique shops in the city, now only a few remain. There are still a few antique shops left in the rural areas and one of our favorites is located in Great Village, Nova Scotia. We decided on a little drive to Great village on a sunny fall Sunday. We were not disappointed in the variety of clocks we discovered. Although I saw all the following clocks during our day of antiquing I bought only one, the Kern “diamond face” 400 day clock (see photo below).

rs-great-village-antiques_3 — Window display

I want to give readers a sense of what is out there if you are collector like myself or you are new to collecting. Now is an excellent time to buy. There are certainly deals to be found and plenty of clocks in the shops. My personal experience is that the antique stores are great places to buy clocks but it can be bit of a gamble. For example, the Kern 400 day clock was advertised for a very fair price complete with glass dome. I asked the store owner if they knew anything about clocks and they said “no, nothing at all”. Sometimes that is a very good answer! The tag on the clock said “as is”. The owner evidently thought the pendulum balls were seized. Prior to the purchase I discovered, that they were, in fact, in their locked position. I got the clock home, unlocked it, gave a little push and it has been running for the past week.

You can get a “steal” of a deal, a clunker or something in between in an antique shop. In this same shop two years ago I bought an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon wall clock for under $200. The case is in excellent shape as is the dial but the movement, though barely running, required servicing. Even though I had to put a little more money into the clock I still consider it a great deal!

Having some knowledge of clock models, styles and types in particular is an advantage. Or, perhaps you might have a good sense that what you are looking at is a good deal. In the case of the Kern 400 day clock I inspected it beforehand and found that it was not only complete but in excellent condition. The $58 Garrard time and strike (photo below) might be a good deal but if it is missing the pendulum you are going to have to search long and hard for a replacement or buy one which adds to the cost. You might ask yourself, what else is missing and how much more money would I have to put into it? The Garrard was missing the front glass and I could not figure out how it was attached so I passed on it. Those are some of the factors to consider when you see something at an attractive price.

In the case of the carriage clock (first photo) the seller wants $120 but the day I was there they were offering a 20% discount which works out to $96. There is a jewelers inscription on the front which says Ryrie Bros. Toronto. Ryrie Bros was a jeweler in Toronto and was incorporated in 1905 with James Ryrie as president and W.M. Birks as vice president. In 1924 the firm changed it’s name to Ryrie Birks and finally in 1933 became Birks. As any Canadian knows Birks (Maison Birk) is one of the premier jewelers in this country. One could comfortably date this clock at between 1905 and 1924. Although the tag says that it is French it is likely American. It might be desirable however there are two bothersome issues that I could see right away with this carriage clock. One, the left side beveled glass panel has a chip in the lower back corner and two, there are noticeable hairline cracks in the upper two corners of the face. The tag said it was in working order. $96 may not be a bad price when you consider that comparable clocks fetch upwards of $130 or more + shipping on Ebay. If it is still there before Christmas I might take a second look.

This unknown “marble” desk clock was very interesting and quite heavy. It had an alarm clock style movement with a key wind and an adjustment for the time, and what appears to be brass bird (duck?) on it’s right side.

As I mentioned I bought this Kern 400 day “diamond face” clock. It is in excellent condition; unlocked the pendulum, oiled the movement, gave it a gentle push of the pendulum and now running very well.

Could be Session, Ingraham, Ansonia — Could be Sessions, Ingraham, Ansonia

In decent shape, 1873 it said on the label, but the seller wanted too much, $450 if I recall. The seller claims it is running, according the tag. Is it a Sessions, Ingraham, Ansonia or …..?

This clock looked to be in decent shape, the strike side appeared to be working properly. The case is oak but when I picked it up to examine it more closely, the construction, fit and finish had a cheap feel. There was a card inside describing a servicing performed in 1994. $68 – a little high, I thought but there may not be a lot wrong with it.

I like this clock but know very little about crystal regulators. What I do know is that most American companies made them, from simple brass and glass cases to elaborate cases with cast and gilt ornaments. Equivalent French examples seem to be more valuable than American ones. They can be highly expensive. Generally, the more elaborate the case, the more expensive the clock, even though the simple cases could easily be considered more tasteful. I remember seeing a very ornate one on Antique Roadshow which was valued at $8000. Condition is very important with these clocks, including the condition of the beveled glass, dials, and original finish (generally gilt) on the case ornaments. Is the pendulum supposed to be filled with anything? Mercury? These cylinders looked empty. The seller claims the clock is running and wants $365. A fair price? I don’t know. It needs a thorough cleaning though.

This English Garrard clock had a well constructed case and appeared to have a well-made, robust movement but was missing its front glass. I have been to this particular shop several times and nobody seems to be interested in the clock though the price has not changed.

rs-great-village-antiques_6 — Seth Thomas made by Talley Industries

I noticed a Seth Thomas mantel clock in a dark corner. This particular example is one that I would not recommend to anyone unless you are a fan of Talley Industries. It is a Seth Thomas Westminster chime mantel clock made by Talley Industries, Peterborough, Ontario in the early seventies with what appears to be an imported West German Hermle movement. This clock was cheaply constructed (corners were chipped), likely has the dreaded plated pivot problem and has absolutely no collector value. Those in the clock collecting world familiar with Seth Thomas know that it was a reputable clock maker for many years and produced many fine clocks but the Talley Industries era must have been a very dark period for the company!

rs-great-village-antiques_8 — A unique clock design

I hope this blog article gives the reader some ideas when it comes to antique shop clock shopping. It certainly pays to do your research. Although I love browsing the shops I do not limit my shopping to them. I acquire many of my clocks from a variety of sources including Ebay, Kijiji, and word of mouth but I like browsing through antique shops because there are always other interesting items that catch the eye.

December 4, 2016

One weight Vienna Regulator miniature

My quest for a one-weight Vienna Regulator ended this past week and I am now in possession of a miniature rather than a traditional antique Vienna wall clock. Here are first impressions back in 2016.

Top showing face and crown detail — Top showing face, hands and crown detail

This attractive unmarked Vienna Regulator one-weight (time-only) clock is 34 inches long 4.75 inches deep and 11 inches at it’s widest point and 8.5 inches at the waist. There are no markings on the movement. My research tells me that very few Austrian clocks have markings on the back plates. There are indications that the lines and style suggest Austro-Hungary, about 1870. The maker, however is unknown.

I believe that this clock is a transitional clock that forms the link between the simplicity of the earlier styles and the extravagance of the latter. Where the earlier pieces rarely have columns on the side of the door, the transitional clocks have either broken columns (tops and bottoms of columns with hanging finials) or slender, elegant columns. In comparison, the hallmarks of the Alt Deutsch clocks were full, and typically fluted columns with Corinthian pediments and rectangular panels at the base. The four-posted keyhole mounts were common throughout the transitional period. Most dials are two-piece porcelain with spun-brass bezels.

Transitional Vienna Regulators typically have wooden pendulum rods and brass bobs with zinc backs. The cases were typically made with walnut, cherry and other fruit wood veneers. There are not as many ebonized or faux (false-grained) finishes in the transitional style cases.

This is a high quality clock housed in a beautiful walnut wood veneered case. The case is in excellent condition save for a few scratches near the door catch from the small brass hook moving back and forth and two small pieces of veneer missing on the uppermost right side that are not visible when looking at the clock head on.

The case is adorned with an attractive crown that is part of the clock unlike similar clocks that have removable toppers. Two finials finish the top. The finals do not appear to be original but are consistent with the style and age of the clock. The twin pillared tapered columns on either side start at the top and narrow towards the bottom of the case, an unusual feature and evidence of skilled craftsmanship. Curiously the left corner rectangular column piece is slightly longer than the right piece. The case is correctly finished on the bottom with a middle and corner finials. On the sides are two brass screws (or standoffs) for leveling adjustment.

rs-miniature-vr_24 — One of two standoffs

Top finial might have been larger originally — Top finials originally might have been larger

Inside the case is a porcelain beat scale and large pendulum. All of the glass is original and in good shape. The interior glass clips used to secure the glass to the inside of the frame appear to be a later addition. The front glass which shows characteristic waviness and small imperfections are consistent with the age of the clock.

Bottom showing beat plate and finial detail, notice waviness of glass

The simplicity of the time-only movement is what makes them last so long and remain easy to maintain. The four-posted key-hole mount is typical of a Germanic or Austrian clock. The Graham deadbeat escapement assures accurate timekeeping.

rs-miniature-vr_39 — Four-posted key-hole mount

rs-miniature-vr_43 — Side view of movement showing deadbeat escapement and gear train

Case showing mounting bracket and suspension spring slot

The brass weight is hung from a brass pulley by mean of catgut cable. The dial is a two piece porcelain with inner and outer brass bezels surrounded by roman numerals with bold but delicately styled hands. The winding arbour is framed in brass. There is some crazing on the dial consistent with aging.

rs-miniature-vr_45 — Slight crazing on the porcelain dial

The original clock key is a winding type with wooden handle.

There are stylistic elements that suggest that the clock is Germanic or Austrian such as the elaborate clock hands, the tapered pillars, and integrated crown. So, is this clock a Germanic, Austrian or Austro-Hungarian regulator? I am very pleased with my purchase and I believe that I bought a quality clock that, according to my research, was made in or about 1870. If you know the answer or can point me in the right direction I can be one step closer to solving this mystery.

November 27, 2016

Clock repair in days gone by

rs-annapolis-royal-oct-16_21-42 — Clock shop in rural Nova Scotia

I had a discussion with David, a horologist acquaintance who is currently working on my 138 year old Ingraham Huron mantel clock (pictured above) about clock repairs in days gone by. He said he had happened to have a conversation a few days ago with an 82 year friend who had been in the clock repair business most of his life who said that times were very different in the “olden days”.

Imagine a Canadian home in the 1920s or the 1930s. In those days a clock was like a refrigerator or a washing machine; it was an appliance. The clock was generally inexpensive and purchased for one reason, to tell the time. Quite often it was the only timekeeping device in the home for common folk. Despite the fact that they were relatively poor timekeepers, people in those days did not demand accuracy in a clock, not like today. If it was correct within a minute or two a week that was just fine. Not only was the clock cheap, it was sturdy, functional and withstood a certain amount of abuse. My Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock, for instance, sold for $5 when it was new in 1912. Five dollars was a lot of money when the average person such as a a railway employee might have made $662 a year or about $12.75 per week, but the home had to have a clock.

Arthur Pequegnat kichen clock — This Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock sold for $5 in 1912

There was always someone in the community that tinkered with clocks and for very little money, or a trade for services, the “appliance” was repaired and promptly returned to it’s owner. The tinkerer was usually someone who fixed things in their spare time rather than fix clocks as a profession. In larger urban centres clock repair persons (trained horologists) set up professional shops but in rural Nova Scotia those services were expensive and few and far between.

When the day came and the clock stopped running, it had to be fixed, and quickly. Often the request was, “just make it work”. The repair did not have to be pretty so long as the clock functioned and the cost of the repair was reasonable. Specialized clock tools were expensive and difficult to acquire so the tinkerer relied on tools they had lying around in the garage or the basement; a hammer, a pair of pliers, a punch, a file, a screwdriver and so on. The self-trained tinkerer did the best he could to make his neighbours’ clocks run often using questionable methods. Since brass bushings were not available the tinkerer would use a punch to close a pivot hole. In the 1940s when the soldering gun was commercially available and inexpensive, it too was added to the toolkit and often a piece of brass was soldered (or riveted) to the plate to accommodate a new pivot hole. They might also soak the movement in a bucket of gasoline overnight and then oil it with something like 3-in-1 oil. Sometimes this would be enough to clean out the gunk and allow the clock to run again, the costumer would be happy because their clock came back working and the tinkerer would charge very little for their “services”. The clock was not worth a great deal and the customer would not have had the money to pay a professional anyway. Common short-term solutions such as these often led to more frequent repairs and eventually replacement of the clock.

In the 1930s the synchronous electric clock began to replace the mechanical clock. Yet, homeowners in the rural areas who had no electricity hung on to them and kept them running, but eventually the electric clock gradually replaced the mechanical clock. Although, many of those old clocks were trashed, sent to the garage, the basement, or the attic, some were passed down to family members and are cherished keepsakes to this day. Not long after, the tinkerers in many communities began to disappear.

Today we covet our prized antique and vintage clocks that adorn our homes. When they are ticking away we marvel at the inventors and innovators of the past and when we want that certain clock, cost is no object. To repair them we employ all manner of modern technology; bushing machines, broaches, special files, clamps, spring winders and lathes to ensure that the “job is done right”, the clocks end up lasting years and are “better than ever”. But it was not always like that.

We look down upon those tinkerers of the past and the repairs they made without really understanding what it was like during those times. “What butcher worked on this?” I hear some people saying. Well, I have said it myself, but after talking to David I now have a better understanding of the clock tinkerers of past and the important work they did for their communities.

November 20, 2016

The French Carriage clock

I have in my collection an unsigned 8-day carriage clock in a moulded rectangular brass case. This attractive little clock has a white enamel dial with Roman numerals, blued steel hands and a spring driven movement with platform lever escapement visible through the top beveled glass. The moulded brass case has beveled glass panels on all sides complete with a fold-down travel handle and two sided key.

Although my knowledge of carriage clocks is somewhat limited, searching the origin of the carriage clock on the net reveals that this type of clock was a very popular item for well-to-do travelers in days gone by. Carriage clocks were spring driven clocks popular in the late 19th and early 20th century designed for travel. It’s golden age was somewhere between 1860 and 1900. The first carriage clock made by Abraham Louis Breguet was designed exclusively for Emperor Napoleon of France in 1812. More information about this fine inventor and horologist can be found here. Many came with a sturdy leather carrying case with one hinged panel that opened to check the time. Mine came without one.

The movement plates in my clock are secured by screws rather than pins suggesting that it was made at a later period. This clock would have been produced for the English market since it has “S”and “F” stamped on the escapement. If one assumes that the key which has “France” inscribed on it is original, then the clock is French. There are no markings on the outside of the clock save for the number “73” stamped twice on the inside access door and once on the bottom of the carrying handle. There are numbers visible on the inside of the plates that I can barely see but once I get the clock apart I can determine if they mean anything and report in a subsequent blog entry if I find anything of significance.

It’s diminutive size, 3 inches wide by 4 1/2 inches tall (without the handle) and 2 1/2 inches deep makes it exceptionally portable. If it is to be displayed on a mantel, a shelf or a desk, it is small enough to be placed anywhere in the home without dominating a room.

The balance and spring-driven platform jeweled escapement that comprised the working mechanism of the carriage clock made it ideal for transportation. The fact that it needed to be transported means it was more robust in dealing with jostling and movement than any other type of clock in it’s day. They were built to last which is why so many of them survive in very good condition to this day. Many had time and strike mechanisms, some with a repeater function, but this is a simpler time-only version.

I managed to revitalize the case as you can see in the first two photos. However, the back plate shows a significant amount of oxidization though one hopes that the movement itself is in good condition. This oxidation is called Verdigris. Verdigris is a bright bluish-green encrustation or patina formed on copper or brass by atmospheric oxidation, consisting of basic copper carbonate.

Although the clock came to me in running condition the movement is very dirty and requires disassembly and a thorough cleaning. I am encouraged by the fact that the clock ran through an eight day cycle so I must assume that the jewels in the escapement are in good condition. Repairing jeweled escapements is not something I can do at this stage.

At the moment I see two issues with my clock. One, there is a small break in the lower corner of the beveled glass on the left side which is barely visible and two, the pull handle on the access door is slightly bent. There may be other issues once I get it apart but we’ll cross that bridge when it comes. I might even find that missing piece of beveled glass trapped somewhere in the movement.

During my research concerning the repair and servicing of carriage clocks I have discovered that letting down the mainspring is critical prior to disassembling. I read about a case where the platform escapement was taken off without letting down the mainspring and the result was the contrate wheel (having teeth that are at right angles to the plane of rotation) below the escapement was seriously damaged. I want to avoid that.

At the moment I have too many other clock projects on the go. However, in the meantime, that won’t keep me from displaying this beautifully crafted timepiece in a prominent location.

In a future blog I will report on the steps I will take to bring this clock to a healthy running condition.

November 11, 2016

Clocks I discovered on my summer travels (2016)

Once a year we travel to central Canada and since I am always on the lookout for clocks when I am on the road, they can show up in the strangest of places.

We stopped a a boutique hotel in downtown Quebec City and came across this Snider Starburst clock in the dining area. Many folks do not realize that Snider clocks are distinctively Canadian. According to the Canadian Clock Museum, “the Snider Clock Corporation, was set up in 1950 by Harry Snider, who operated a wholesale jeweler business on Yonge Street at the time. The company name was changed in 1957 to the Snider Clock Mfg Co. Limited. Over a period of more than twenty-five years until 1976 there were hundreds of models of Snider mantel, TV lamp, and wall clocks designed and manufactured in Toronto”.

In the same boutique hotel beside the Snider clock was a wine vending machine. How cool is that!

This fine looking Scottish Hugh Gordon tall-case clock located in a home near Montreal, was made somewhere between 1760 and 1770. The clock is majestic and certainly defines the room though I wish it were in my room! The cabinet is in excellent condition but the movement requires attention that can only be provided by professional horologist.

Smiths Enfield Art Deco style mantel clock circa 1949

I like the lines of this clock. In fact, I liked it so much that I bought it. This Smiths Enfield Art Deco clock was discovered at this antique shop in Haliburton, Ontario and it has become our newest cottage clock.

I am not a fan of pillar clocks although I do have a couple. This six pillar Sessions time and strike seems to be in good shape though the dial may need replacing or restoration. Some would leave it as-is. I am personally not a fan of replacing a dial but if the numbers are unreadable it can be an option.

What is it? Is it French, is it British? Could even be American. There are no markings on the dial face. I am leaning towards French.

I saw this in an antique store and hummed and hawed over whether I should buy it or not. We were with friends and they loved it. I thought about it, went back a week later, made an offer and now it is sitting on a buffet at home. It works well, runs a full eight days but has a jeweled movement which concerns me. I am not comfortable having this clock run continuously until I know how to service it. Heck I can’t even find a way to open it up to inspect it. For the moment I will run it only on special occasions until my skill level improves enough to allow me to investigate further.

Possible Ansonia or French mantel clock — Possibly Ansonia or another French mantel clock

The above clock, another find in an antique store is possibly French or American. I believe Ansonia made clocks very similar to this. I am going to call it an Ansonia.

Collection of beehive, six pillar Seth Thomas and Waterbury wall clock

A Seth Thomas Beehive and a Waterbury time and strike wall clock. Both are in very good condition but a tad on the pricey side.

My wife took a quick cell phone shot of this clock in another antique shop. Not the best image.

Kienzle Weschester Chime — Kienzle Winchester Chime

It is a Kienzle 3-train German clock and no matter how hard I look I cannot find another like it. Could be a one-of. If you know anything about it please drop me a line.

That’s about it. I found another tall-case clock in a restaurant in Quebec City. It looked like a combination of several clocks although the cabinet was nice. So, somebody messed with it. Should have taken a photo!

November 9, 2016

Ingraham Huron – off to the shop for restoration!

I have related the story of this most interesting Ingraham Huron mantel clock in an earlier blog which you can read about here. I purchased it at what I believe was a reasonable price from an older couple near Bridgewater, Nova Scotia who were in the midst of downsizing. It had been in their family for a very long time and although it was cherished for many years it was time to let it go.

Because it is such a unique design you don’t often see this style of clock in any of the antique stores and they rarely come up at the finer online auction houses. The last one I saw on EBay sold for US895.00 a year and a half ago.

The case is actually in very good condition for a 138 year old clock but the movement suffered at the hands of a butcher. The clock will run for about 2-3 days on a full wind and then stop. Nudging the pendulum will get it going again but only for about a couple of hours. To anyone who knows anything about clocks there is an serious power loss in the movement and it is not difficult to determine why once you see the photos. After taking the face off there is little to indicate that there are any issues with this clock.

Back of the movement — Front of the movement

However, as you can see in the next four photos there are some interesting issues with the movement which undoubtedly contribute to it’s poor running. In the first photo you can see that the escape wheel arbour is at an extreme angle relative to the other arbours. In the next three photos arrows are pointing to solder that was used to “correct” various problems with the movement. The result is that although the clock will operate for a period of time on a full wind, it cannot and will not run the full 8-day cycle.

rs-ingraham-movement-9 — The escape wheel is at a precarious angle

rs-ingraham-movement-3 — A new pivot hole has been made and a lantern gear “repaired”

rs-ingraham-movement-1 — A solder “fix” for the fan

Is this a repair job or a restoration? I brought it in to a certified horologist nearby who said that in situations such as this if the movement is likely beyond repair he recommends to the customer that the movement be replaced with a period movement correct for the clock. He agrees with me that this movement must stay with the clock to preserve it’s provenance and it’s authenticity, therefore restoration for this antique clock is required.

Why am I not doing this myself? Many of the clocks I have worked on require minimal adjustment/repair to get them to run reliably again and I am still in a learning phase. I have disassembled many clocks, cleaned them and even installed/replaced bushings but this is a job that must be left to someone who is familiar with clocks that have had very poor repairs such as this one.

It will take two or three months but at the end of the day this will be a properly restored timepiece. Once I get it back I will report on the steps it took to restore this clock.

November 7, 2016

What the term a “fully serviced” clock really means

Everybody appreciates a serviced clock when they are making a purchase. However, there is no acceptable definition for the term “Fully Serviced”. Fully serviced may mean one thing for the amateur clock collector and repairer and another to a professional clock repair shop.

The other day I was responding to a FaceBook post which offered a mantel clock for sale. The owner said that the clock, a 100+ year old antique, had been “fully serviced” so I asked him what he meant by that since I was curious. He said the clock was ultrasonically cleaned, the pivots were inspected, and the clock was oiled. He did not actually state that the clock was disassembled before cleaning but I assume that it was done properly although dunk and swish (or duncan swish) techniques are used more often that we realize. Dunk and swish involves immersing the entire unassembled movement into a cleaning solution and calling it “cleaned”. However, no reputable clock repair person (horologist) would employ this method. By using the term “fully serviced” the seller naturally expects to get several tens of dollars more for the clock.

No doubt who ever buys the clock will get a couple of years of service before it again needs attention. My concern is the state of the bushing holes and of course the pivots in a 100 year old clock and chances are it was not serviced properly in it’s past life.

I have disassembled and serviced a few clocks in my limited experience and my observation is that the older the clock the more the need for bushing and other repairs. My definition of servicing is this; disassemble and totally strip down, ultrasonically clean, springs unwound, inspected and oiled, pivots inspected and polished, pivot holes pegged and bushings installed / replaced if necessary, other parts inspected and addressed and the movement tested and regulated before re-installing in the case. My servicing also includes a case refresh. I serviced a 1920s Sessions Beveled No. 2 clock this spring (2016) that required 12 bushings.

Sessions Beveled No. 2 case — Sessions Beveled No. 2 time and strike in as-found condition

My Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock pictured here was professionally serviced in 2015 by a reputable clock shop and also required 12 bushings.

RS Pequegnat fan top (3) — Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock in as-found condition

I am currently working on a 1940s Ingersoll Waterbury which was not too badly worn but still required 3 new bushings.

This American Ingersoll Waterbury clock, circa 1940, required 3 bushings,

If you poke around some of the clock for sale sites you will see a description that reads something like this, “all of our clocks are fully serviced and tested to ensure reliable running”. But if you bring up the profile on any one of the clocks offered for sale they generally do not describe how it was serviced and / or the actual service done on the clock.

I see plenty of antique and vintage clocks on the local online for-sale sites. Many have not been serviced as you would expect but some sellers claim that their clock has been fully serviced without providing any detail about what was actually done or whether it was a backyard tinkerer who did the servicing or a professional shop. The Juba Schatz mantel clock you see in the first photo might even be described as “serviced” but all I did was take the movement out of it’s case, inspect the pivots and other parts, oil the movement and return it to its case which took about 10 minutes.

“Fully serviced” to me means defining the term when selling a clock. A reputable for sale site should say something like this, ” has been fully serviced, having been totally stripped down, ultrasonically cleaned, reassembled, runs the full length of the wind and keeping excellent time, +/- 2 minutes per 7 day period”. A little more detail would be beneficial such as specific areas that needed to be addressed or particular repairs made if required but that is about as close as you will get and for those serious about a clock purchase it might be good enough.

Fully serviced means different things to different people. Always ask before you buy.

October 26, 2016

A Pig in a Poke

“A pig in a poke” is an old expression but it still has relevance in the clock world today. What does it mean? It means something that is bought or accepted without knowing its value or seeing it first. Or, another way of putting it, a deal that is foolishly accepted without being examined first. If you have been to a live auction you might have experienced winning a bid on that seemingly expensive hall table, for example, only to find it was made in Indonesia.

My own personal example. I bought an antique wall clock (100+ years old) on EBay a year ago and from the write-up it looked great. I was eager to see it. When it arrived I began to notice a few things right away and little details later on despite the description that it was “all original”. The glass on all three sides was said to be original, clearly it was not. The clock hands were off of an Ogee clock and poorly attached, The movement was made during the same period the clock was made however the pendulum sits very low in the case leading me to believe that it (the movement) may not be original. The rod gong was probably added later. Normally the gong is in back of the pendulum. There are two different styles of weights though the differences are almost imperceptible. I could go on but the point is this: do not trust any seller absolutely in your online dealings. Luckily for me the clock works and shows well.

Typically sellers will describe just about everything they feel the buyer needs to know but leave out essential details. This is called omission. It means that something in the description is deliberately left out for whatever reason. Is it unethical? Perhaps. However, sellers do not have an obligation to tell you everything about an item you are interested in since there are no disclosure laws in online dealing. That is why it is important to ask questions, lots of questions prior to any purchase.

The other day I followed postings on Facebook regarding a clock purchase. The person was quite proud of the fact that he had an attractive Art Deco clock coming in the mail. He provided only one photo of the clock showing its face and base. The style was similar to this clock.

It was the only photo provided by the seller and with good reason. It was advertised as an 8-day clock because that is what it said on the clock face. It arrived several days later. This individual thought he was getting a mechanical clock but discovered when it arrived that the original movement had been taken out and replaced with a cheap quartz movement. Naturally he was dismayed. Caveat Emptor some would say but in this case the seller could have been more forthright. However, let me reiterate, the time to ask key questions is before the purchase.

The other day, again on Facebook, a fellow had bought a German box clock very similar to this one from my collection. When it arrived he proudly showed off his new acquisition.

after a good cleaning (4) — U M Muller German “box clock”, time and strike

The clock was keeping great time though the pendulum was very high up in the box and could barely be seen through the front glazing. It looked very odd. When he presented a photo of the inside of the clock it was clear that the seat board was handmade and it was obvious that the movement was originally mounted within a much smaller case.

Some weeks ago I was looking for banjo clock and I saw a couple on a local for-sale site. One was very intriguing. The only photo was of the outside of the clock; nothing showing the movement. I thought if it is weight driven it would be an excellent deal. I contacted the seller by email and I asked if it were weight driven and he said he thought so but he also mentioned that it came with a winding key for the spring. Thanks I said.

Let the buyer beware. If you buy something you take responsibility to make sure it is what you intended to buy. Ask enough questions so that you are absolutely satisfied you know what you are getting otherwise you may be getting a pig in a poke.

Let me know if you have had similar experiences.

October 5, 2016

Winding Arbours or Winding Points and Their Function

The Difference Between the Terms Strike and Chime

Where Winding Points Are Located

The Running Time or Cycle of a Clock

Clock Keys

Key Size and Type

Over-winding a clock is a common myth. A clock which “appears” to be over-wound seizes because of a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil

Winding Your Mechanical Clock

Clocks with Weights

Final thoughts

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When I am in the process of buying a clock I always ask the seller this question. “How much do you know about this clock?”

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How Far Do You Go to Repair or Restore a Clock?

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Questions for the Collector

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