Crispi Wall Clock Movement by Junghans | My Nemesis

I have never been completely happy with how the movement runs in this Junghans Crispi wall clock. When I got the clock in 2017, I jumped right into restoring the case because it was an interesting challenge to put the clock together from a bunch of parts.

_{Junghans wall clock, circa 1899, model – Crispi}

Now, eight years later, the clock continues to disappoint. The case remains in great shape, but the movement has been a consistent letdown.

Very dirty movement — _{Movement as found, about as dirty as it gets}

Let’s take a step back in time.

Winter 2017

After completing the work on the case, I turned my attention to the movement. During the disassembly and reassembly process, I accidentally broke not only the strike paddle but also a retention spring. In 2017, my skills weren’t advanced enough to repair the paddle and retaining spring myself, so I had the movement professionally serviced.

Junghans movement — _{Broken strike paddle}

During its 2017 service, the paddle was repaired and a new spring was installed. In addition, the movement had received extensive bushing work: six bushings on the front plate and six on the rear.

Three months later, I picked up the clock and hung it on my dining room wall. It ran perfectly for over two and a half years.

Spring 2020

For some undetermined reason, the strike became erratic—it would strike incorrectly, fail to strike at all or strike incessantly until the mainspring ran down.

I had a number of other clock projects on the go so I kept the time side going and left it on the wall until later that year.

December 2020

In December, I disassembled the movement and discovered a slightly bent arbor on the strike side cam wheel. All other pivots were straight, and there were no noticeably worn pivot holes—everything else appeared to be in good condition.

I did notice a small amount of dirty oil around many of the pivots. While I was initially a bit surprised, it’s not entirely unusual after more than two years of regular operation.

Unfortunately, disaster struck again. While manipulating the plates, I snapped the paddle arbor retention spring—again! This time, however, I was able to repair it myself.

There was just enough of the original spring left to reuse. The wire is very thin (0.5 mm), extremely brittle, and breaks easily under even light pressure. Using a micro drill with a 0.5 mm HSS bit, I carefully enlarged the existing hole in the plate, reinstalled the spring, and secured it with Threadlocker Red to bond it firmly in place.

The movement was reassembled and tested. After the testing period the movement was returned to its case and ran well until about 6 months ago.

Fall 2024

While the time side was running well, the erratic striking returned, and after a few weeks, the clock began stopping just before the warning phase. I wound both the time and strike sides again to replicate the problem, and each time it stopped at the warning point. Feeling frustrated, I left the clock on the wall, wound only the time side, and still it stopped. Since I had other projects to tend to, I decided to leave this one on the back burner for a while.

Junghans clock — _{The movement on a test stand}

Spring 2025

Since I was free of immediate projects, I removed the movement from its case and placed it on the test stand. As expected, the time side ran fine. It was serviced not so long ago. For the last couple of months, however, it has been striking erratically or not at all. It enters warning without issue, but seems to almost stall during the striking process. I want to address this issue, but I also want to disassemble the movement to clean up both the pivots and the bushing holes, as the oil is dirtier than I expected.

Judging from similar movements I’ve worked on, I believe there are three issues at play:

A power issue, which suggests the mainspring is weak.
One or more bent pivots, preventing the wheels from turning freely.
The paddle is not correctly positioned in relation to the star wheel. The hammer begins lifting immediately at the drop-off, which stalls the strike train. Once it gets going again, the hammer lifts easily and quickly. I’ll try repositioning the star wheel to allow more run time before the hammer paddle is engaged.

The first issue means replacing the strike-side mainspring. The second issue involves manipulating pivots. There is always a risk of breaking a pivot when attempting to straighten it, not a pleasant experience, as re-pivoting is necessary.

Check back later for an update on what I discovered—which of the three issues turned out to be the culprit, and whether I was finally able to fix a clock that, at times, seems determined not to be fixed.

April 29, 2025 2

Servcing a Family Heirloom – Refreshing the Clock Case

A German-made Mauthe time-and-strike wall clock, likely from the late 1940s, was gifted to my father-in-law—a physician in a small Nova Scotia town—by a grateful secretary, likely in the mid-to-late 1960s. It hung in the family home until 1997 when it was packed away during a move and eventually passed to the user’s brother-in-law. The clock was never displayed again and remained in storage for decades.

Recently, I was asked to restore it. My wife recalls the clock from childhood, confirming its presence in the home for many years. A service sticker inside the door, from “Time Center” in Amherst, Nova Scotia, suggests it was professionally serviced sometime between 1974 and 1996, most likely in the 1980s.

Now, after years of neglect, the clock is due for a full movement cleaning and cosmetic case touch-up.

I’ll cover the case restoration in this article. Surprisingly little must be done to the case, although it is dull with age and has a few minor scratches.

A word about Clock Cases

I’m firmly opposed to stripping and refinishing clock cases for two key reasons. First, it destroys the original patina—a quality many collectors value and appreciate in antique clocks. Second, the finishing techniques used when these clocks were made are nearly impossible to replicate today. As a result, refinishing often produces a sanitized look that lacks the character and authenticity of the original.

Instead, I will begin by cleaning the case and attempting to minimize the nicks and scratches that have accumulated over time through normal use, using a light coat.

The Case

The clock case was cleaned and given two light coats of Minwax wipe-on poly, with a light sanding between applications. For the final polish, 2500-grit sandpaper was used to achieve a smooth finish.

The poly finish helped conceal minor scratches, though some faint marks remain visible upon close inspection.

The glass was thoroughly cleaned, and the brass strips on the door were polished using Brasso.

The spun brass bezel was also polished with Brasso. While there is some minor wear visible on the dial face, I chose to leave it untouched, aside from a gentle cleaning with soap and water, as it is not particularly noticeable from a normal viewing distance.

While I was working on the case, the movement was undergoing testing. It’s now at the end of the first testing phase, and the next step is to reinstall it into the case and continue with testing.

The movement dial is attached to the movement using four pins, one at each corner. Once the dial is in place, the hands are installed—first the hour hand, followed by the minute hand.

Once the dial is mounted on the movement and attached to the seat board, the assembly can be slid into the channels in the case and screwed into place. Under the seat board are two thumbscrews used to secure the movement.

The main challenge was positioning the strike hammers so they rest about 1/8″ from the strike rods. This involved some trial and error, requiring the movement to be removed several times for fine adjustments. The hammer rods are somewhat pliable and can be carefully bent into the correct position.

Finally

This well-traveled Mauthe clock has finally returned to active duty, proudly ticking away once more after decades in storage. With both the case and movement restored, it now stands as a meaningful family heirloom and a fine example of mid-century German craftsmanship.

April 22, 2025 1

Servicing a Family Heirloom – A Sentimental Journey

Many years ago, my father-in-law received a gift from his secretary. As a physician in a small town in Nova Scotia, it was once common practice to accept small tokens of appreciation from fellow employees. The gift was a German-made Mauthe time-and-strike wall clock, often referred to today as a “box clock” and made sometime in the late 1940s.

It hung on the wall in my in-laws’ home until 1997, when they moved to a smaller house in the same town to downsize. The clock was packed away and never rehung in their new home. Instead, my brother-in-law took it to his home, about three hours away, presumably intending to display it. However, it remained in storage and was never hung.

Recently, he asked if I could service the movement and restore the clock, and I gladly agreed.

My wife remembers the clock from her childhood, recalling it from when she was a young girl. This suggests it was gifted in the mid-to-late 1960s. Her father proudly hung the clock in the family home, and I remember his weekly ritual of winding it.

It was evidently serviced at least once. Inside the clock’s door, there is a sticker from a clockmaker in Amherst, identifying the repairer as Time Center, 5 Westminster Ave, Amherst. However, an online search yielded no information about this business. The sticker includes a Canadian postal code, which indicates that the clock was serviced after 1974, when postal codes were introduced in Nova Scotia. This means the servicing took place sometime between 1974 and 1996, though I cannot pinpoint the exact year. It likely would have been serviced in the 1980s.

_{A jewelry shop in Amherst, Nova Scotia, circa 1940s}

After many years stored, it is long overdue for a cleaning. The plan is to service the movement and touch up a tired case.

Servicing the Movement

Before taking the clock apart, I wanted to see if it still worked. I removed the movement, oiled the pivots, and then placed the movement back into the case. I hung the clock on the wall in my office, wound it, attached the pendulum, and gave it a push. To my surprise, it ran for a while—despite having been in storage for years. Running the clock also reassured me that I likely wouldn’t encounter any significant mechanical issues.

_{The front plate is removed to show the two trains}

However, the only way to confirm any wear for certain would be to disassemble the movement, which I proceeded to do.

_{Second wheels with robust Leaf pinions}

I disassembled the movement, put all the parts in an ultrasonic cleaner, dried the parts after the cleaning, pegged the pivot holes, polished the pivots, and now checked for wear. I generally assemble the trains separately with the strike side first, since often it is the greater source of wear. I then move to the time side.

The movement looked to be in very good condition overall, though I noticed some wear in six of the pivot holes. The most worn appeared to be the third wheel on the backplate (or star wheel), and the second wheel on the time side backplate. In the end, I installed only two bushings—those pivot holes were in the worst condition.

This is a family clock, and I doubt it will see daily use; it’s more likely to serve as a decorative piece. If I were doing this as a professional repair, I would have addressed all signs of wear, which in this case might have meant installing up to six bushings.

_{Springs barrels with partially exposed mainsprings}

I’m also donating my time to this project, so if the clock stops after a couple of years, I’d have no problem servicing it again.

The mainsprings were serviced by removing them from their barrels, thoroughly cleaning them, and then applying fresh oil. The barrels and their caps were also cleaned to remove any residual oil and were placed in the ultrasonic cleaner for a deep clean.

Reassembly

Transitioning from a typical American antique clock movement to a German one is a significant step, primarily because you’re dealing with much smaller pivots, which greatly increases the risk of bending or breaking them. Those who have replaced pivots before know how challenging the process can be—and that it requires specialized equipment, such as a metal lathe. This is a case where it’s essential to resist the urge to force the pivots into their respective holes and instead exercise a great deal of patience.

A pivot locator is an essential tool that every clock repair person should have in their toolbox.

Assembling the movement begins with inserting the mainspring barrels onto the backplate. The third wheel on the time side is positioned between the barrels, which means the barrels go in first, then the third wheel and the three-wing retaining spring on the top are then secured in place. After that, all the other gears and put in place.

Once everything is where it should be, the front plate is positioned and secured in place by the two movement nuts on the barrel end, which helps prevent the plates from separating while aligning the pivots up the trains into their respective holes. On the strike side, I generally leave the fly and stop wheel out until the very last moment.

The escapement is worked in through the opening on the front plate after the movement is assembled and the two screws for the suspension spring bridge secure the escapement in place. Once they are in place, it is time to work on the front plate by installing the levers, the rack, and the snail.

This movement has four strike hammers. It produces its distinctive bim-bam sound by having one hammer strike the outermost rod, while the other three simultaneously strike the remaining rods. The arrangement involves a paddle and “L” rod system (one hammer on the paddle and three on the “L” rod), and both must be positioned between two points of the star wheel.

_{“L” rod and paddle in the centre of the photo}

If not, one or the other may get caught on a star point and stop the strike. Sometimes, I’m successful on the first try; otherwise, I must open the plates and reposition the star wheel. In this case, I got it right the first time.

The only other adjustment to be mindful of is ensuring that the pin on the warning wheel—the uppermost gear on the strike side—is positioned roughly at the 12 o’clock mark. This ensures that the wheel spins enough to properly set up the warning.

Testing

I take a cautious step-by-step approach during the testing phase. I wind the time side first, observe the movement and the action of the escapement, and make any necessary adjustments to ensure that once the movement is level, the escapement is in beat. I then run it for 24 hours.

Once I’m satisfied that the time side will run reliably, I shift my focus to the strike side. I check the movement, ensure there aren’t any obvious obstructions, wind the strike side mainspring, and observe its action, taking care to note the position of the lever on the snail to ensure that all 12 hours strike properly. I did have to make one small correction. I adjusted the snail by removing it, repositioning it one cog to the left, and reinserting it to ensure it aligned properly with the flat sections.

I typically test for about 2 weeks or 2 eight-day cycles before I reinstall it into the case. Once in the case, I resumed testing for another two cycles.

Summary

I’ll cover the case restoration in a separate article. Notably, surprisingly little must be done to the case, although it is dull with age and has a few minor scratches.

This project is particularly rewarding because it’s a family clock. It has been in the family for nearly 60 years and was a source of pride for my father-in-law. Were he still with us, I’m sure he’d be pleased to know that it’s being carefully restored to its original condition.

April 18, 2025 6

Tick Talk Tuesday | What is This Clock Worth?

I receive a number of letters each day from clock enthusiasts, first-time buyers, and people who have inherited family clocks, among others. Typically, I share these letters—while keeping the writer’s identity and location confidential. However, in this case, I’ve chosen not to publish the letter, as doing so would reveal both the sender’s identity and the name of a specific clock repair shop.

Recently, I corresponded with a couple living in the northwestern United States. They inquired about the value of a 120-year-old German-made clock. A repairer had quoted them $2,500 for servicing and repairs, claiming the clock would then be guaranteed for 30 years and valued at $10,000. I asked them to send a photo for reference. While I won’t be posting their photo to protect their privacy, I will share an image of a very similar clock from my own collection.

Once I was sent the photo of the clock I was able to comment.

I replied,

Thank you for sharing the photo of your clock. Based on what I see, I wouldn’t date your clock as early as 1900. This type of clock is commonly referred to as “box clock” by collectors and enthusiasts. These time and strike wall clocks were produced in large quantities after the First World War and remained popular well into the late 1940s.

I’ve worked on many clocks of this type. The movements are generally well-engineered, and it’s rare to encounter serious mechanical issues. In my experience, the most significant problem you might run into is a broken mainspring. Even then, collateral damage to the time or strike train is uncommon.

If I may be candid, the repair cost you mentioned strikes me as quite high even if it included refurbishing the case. Also, it’s worth noting that no repair shop can realistically guarantee a clock movement for 30 years. Mechanical clocks typically need to be inspected and oiled every 3–5 years. Assuming the clock is running daily, a service interval of around five years is standard.

Regarding value: I’ve purchased several clocks of this type, and the most I’ve ever paid is $300.

If the clock has special provenance, that could certainly influence its assessed value.

And finally, my comments are based solely on the photo you provided. If the photo was sent in error and you’re referring to a different clock, please let me know.

Hope this helps.”

_{Common time and strike box clock movement}

Let me say at this point that what I might be willing to pay for a clock may not reflect the values typically seen on online auction sites. I’ve become quite skilled at spotting good value when it comes to clocks.

In any event, I received a reply—once again, I won’t share it verbatim—but it partly supported what I had said while also questioning my estimate of the clock’s value and its age. I will add the clock in question had an unmarked movement and no maker’s name on the dial.

I replied,

“Thanks again for sharing more about your clock and the estimate you received. It’s clear you’ve put a lot of thought into preserving it, which is always wonderful to see. As I mentioned, these German wall clocks were especially popular from just after the First World War through to the 1940s. They were well-made and produced in large numbers by respected manufacturers in the Black Forest region.

As I also noted, I’ve purchased several clocks of this type, and the most I’ve ever paid is $300. While they may command higher prices in some cases, it’s uncommon to see them valued in the range your clock repairer suggests. There are always exceptions—particularly if a clock has an unusual history or distinctive design—but most tend to fall within the hundreds of dollars rather than the thousands.

Additionally, makers such as Junghans, Gustav Becker, Kienzle, and HAC almost always stamped their movements with trademarks as a point of pride. It’s true that I’ve seen and worked on some unmarked German movements, but they’re the exception rather than the rule.

At the end of the day, it really comes down to which perspective you find more convincing—whether it’s the valuation provided by the repair shop or the experience of collectors who regularly see these clocks. I simply offer my observations based on years of hands-on experience with similar clocks. Whatever you decide, I sincerely hope the clock brings you lasting enjoyment.”

I received a polite “thank you”

Key Takeaway

The key takeaway for readers is that opinions on a clock’s value can vary widely. In fact, two experts may arrive at very different conclusions. Yet, when it comes to estimating the worth of an antique clock, those same experts might not be as far apart as it first seems.

I believe the person who wrote to me had some reservations about the information they received from the clock repair shop—likely the reason they sought a second opinion. This case is also a rather extreme example, and it is my hope the inquirer will ask serious questions of the individual/shop working on their clock.

If you have a clock in need of repair, and the cost of repair seems steep, it is always prudent to ask for a second opinion from a collector or another clock repair shop.

April 15, 2025 4

A Beginner’s Guide to Winding a Mechanical Clock

Sometimes, demonstrating a task is easier than explaining it. This 14-minute beginner’s guide covers the basics of winding a mechanical clock, which is perfect for those who have just purchased their first one and need guidance.

The video explains how to wind different types of antique and vintage clocks, including shelf clocks, tall case clocks, wall clocks, and mantel clocks.

_{How to wind a mechanical clock – a beginner’s guide}

It also covers the types of winding keys used and the importance of winding all necessary points. The guide begins with a brief introduction before demonstrating the winding process on various clock styles.

I’m no expert when it comes to making videos, but I try my best. If I missed a step, please let me know in the comments. Also, if there are more how-to videos you’d like to see, feel free to share your suggestions.

Check out my other clock-related videos as well.

April 11, 2025 5

How to Arrange Antique Clocks for Maximum Impact

For clock collectors, presentation is just as important as the clocks themselves. A well-arranged collection not only enhances a space but also invites conversation and appreciation. While some collectors prefer to distribute their clocks throughout their home, others opt to showcase them all in one dedicated space. Regardless of your approach, thoughtful arrangement can make a significant difference.

One general guideline is to avoid clustering too many clocks in one area, allowing each piece to stand out. However, if you prefer to group multiple clocks together, consider organizing them by maker, style, type, era, or country of origin. A collection arranged with a clear theme creates a cohesive and visually appealing display, whereas a more haphazard approach can feel cluttered and overwhelming.

Deciding How Many Clocks to Display

Many collectors set limits on how many clocks are displayed at one time—and how many are actually running. While I keep most of my displayed clocks running, I occasionally let some take a “break.” Changing a clock’s location from time to time can refresh a room’s look, though it’s important to remember that some clocks are sensitive to movement.

_{Ingraham Huron shelf clock on a Westinghouse floor model radio}

For example, in one of my larger rooms, I have four clocks, but they are spaced out so as not to compete for attention. The most striking piece is a 2-weight Gustav Becker Vienna regulator from 1902—at 51 inches tall, it naturally commands the space. On another wall is a Arthur Pequegnat wall clock, an Ingraham shelf clock that sits on an old Westinghouse radio, and a 1996 Ridgeway tall case to complete the arrangement. The layout ensures that each clock is showcased without overwhelming the room.

_{Gustav Becker and Ridgeway (foreground)}

Placement Considerations

Some collectors prefer to dedicate a single room to their clocks, creating a focused display, while others, like myself, enjoy integrating clocks throughout the home. Of course, what works best also depends on what your partner is willing to tolerate!

In my entrance hallway, for example, my Seth Thomas Regulator #2 greets the visitor to my home. Also in the hallway is an Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time wall clock.

On the second floor, a Pequegnat Brandon schoolhouse clock is positioned where it can be admired, but in keeping with a simple household rule—no striking clocks upstairs to ensure a peaceful night’s sleep.

In the dining room, a Gilbert shelf clock sits atop a 1947 Stromberg Carlson console radio, blending vintage charm with functionality.

The Art of Thoughtful Display

Arranging a clock collection takes more than just placing timepieces on a shelf—it requires an eye for balance, harmony, and practicality. A well-considered display not only highlights the beauty of each clock but also enhances the overall aesthetic of your home. Whether you prefer a carefully curated showcase or a more casual arrangement, the key is to strike a balance between functionality and visual appeal.

How do you display your collection? Do you prefer grouping clocks together, or spreading them throughout your home? Let me know your thoughts!

April 8, 2025 0

Tick Talk Tuesday | Jauch Clocks of Germany

I generally do not reveal the names of those who write to me when sharing their comments. I attempted to reach out to the author, but after several months without a response, I believe quoting their letter does not breach confidence, especially as I have also safeguarded their location.

It’s a sincere message, so here it is.

“I Just stumbled across your article. Theodor Jauch’s company was my grandfather’s. It was located in Deisslingen (not Schwenningen which is a nearby larger town). I grew up in Ireland, but as a boy, we visited my grandfather regularly, he lived in an apartment at one end of the U shaped factory building, to reach it one walked down a corridor with about 3 offices on each side, each with what seemed like 100 clocks in it, each chiming at different times.

Jauch wall clock — _{An example of a} _{Jauch clock, a time and strike wall clock}

After my grandfather’s death, it passed to my father and his older brother, soon thereafter as far as I know it was wholly owned by his brother when the estate was settled, but went bankrupt within several years (1976). I do know from my father, that while some clocks were sold in the USA, far more clock mechanisms were sold to US companies who put them into their own housing designs. I do of course have one of the wall clocks, with the 2 weights, on my living room wall (and recently brought another one from a family member in Germany, back to another family member in USA.”

_{A time-only calendar schoolhouse clock}

Thank you so much for reaching out and sharing such a personal and fascinating glimpse into your family’s history. I’m particularly intrigued by the vivid image of the factory building and the offices filled with clocks striking/chiming at different times—it must have been such a unique experience for a young boy to witness.

It’s also interesting to learn that Deisslingen, rather than Schwenningen, was the true home of the company. These details help paint a fuller picture of Jauch’s history, and I deeply appreciate you taking the time to share them.

The insight about clock movements being sold to U.S. companies aligns with the approach of many clock manufacturers of that era. This was a common practice.

It’s wonderful to hear that you’ve preserved a piece of this legacy with one of Jauch’s wall clocks on your living room wall, The connection to these clocks clearly goes beyond just their functionality—they’re a tangible link to your family’s story.

Thank you again for taking the time to share your memories. It’s been a privilege to hear your perspective, and I hope we can continue this conversation.

April 1, 2025 4

Is Your Clock a FrankenClock? Key Insights for Collectors

Have you ever come across the term FrankenClock in the world of clock collecting? If not, let me explain.

Imagine purchasing a clock, hoping that every mechanical component, finial, and piece of trim is original, only to later discover—through experience, research, or sheer luck—that it isn’t. How would that make you feel? Disappointed? Cheated? Many collectors have faced this reality. A clock with non-original or mismatched parts is often referred to as a FrankenClock.

A Case in Point -A Gustav Becker Two-Weight Vienna Regulator

To illustrate, let me share the story of my own Vienna regulator clock that I purchased in 2016. At a glance, it presents very well, keeps excellent time, and has undergone necessary restoration, thorough cleaning, oiling, and case repairs. But is it original in every way? No, not by a long shot.

When I purchased this clock, it was sold as a “project clock,” with the seller making no claims about its originality—a fair and transparent transaction reflected in what I determined to be a fair price in 2016. Over time, I uncovered several details that revealed its true history.

The following is what I now know concerning my Gustav Becker 8-day time and strike wall clock

The Glass Panels

When the clock arrived, I had no way of knowing whether the glass panels—the front door glass and side lights—were original. It became a moot point when they shattered during shipping. The case also sustained damage, though not severe enough to require new parts—mostly just glue failing and pieces coming loose. When I took the case to a glass installer, they asked two key questions: Why is the side glass thicker than the front glass? And why were finishing nails used to secure the panels? These details cast doubt on whether the glass that came with the clock was original. In any event, the panels were replaced with new glass.

What I had assumed to be original was, in fact, another chapter in the clock’s long journey.

The Weights

At first glance, the clock’s two weights appeared identical. However, closer inspection revealed a subtle difference in their hook designs. Given Gustav Becker’s reputation for precision, it seems unlikely that the factory would have issued mismatched weights. This suggests that at least one weight is a replacement (and probably both, for that matter).

The Movement

The movement appears appropriate for the period and case, but is it original? The seller had disclosed missing parts, including the star wheel/snail, strike hammer, and rod. Additionally, the gathering pallet was bent, preventing the strike side from functioning. It was evidently harvested for parts.

Determined to restore the clock, I sourced what I thought was an exact donor movement from Poland—specifically from Gustav Becker’s Braunau factory (as opposed to the Silesia factory). However, despite being only 16 years newer, the donor movement had subtle differences: thinner plates, redesigned lever springs, a slightly thicker minute arbour shaft, and incompatible strike components. Unfortunately, the replacement parts were not interchangeable with the original movement.

Though disappointed, I decided to swap the entire movement, though I kept the original movement for transparency. If I ever sell the clock, I will disclose this change along with all other modifications.

It gets better (or worse).

Gustav Becker 2 weight clock — _{Replacement hands and brass bezel}

Other Replacements and Repairs

The spun brass dial bezel is a period-correct replacement which I sourced because the original was bent during shipment.
Some trim pieces, such as the bottom finials may have been added later, though their exact origin remains uncertain.
The bottom center finial is a replacement. Interestingly, it has wormwood holes, whereas the case itself has no traces of worm damage.
The clock originally had Ogee clock hands rather than Vienna regulator hands. Ogee clock hands are not correct for this clock. After an extensive search through suppliers in Canada, the U.S., and Britain, I was surprised by the limited availability of Vienna regulator hands. Eventually, I sourced a set from Poland. Although they are not historically accurate and not the design that might have been on the clock face at the time, I eventually settled on sleeker hands that look appropriate and will suffice for now.

Lessons Learned

I hesitate to dig any deeper into this clock, fearing I will uncover even more shortcomings.

Despite its mix of original and replacement parts, this clock remains a valuable learning experience.

Many collectors unknowingly own FrankenClocks—clocks that have been altered with non-original or mismatched parts. While reputable auction houses often disclose repairs, replacements, or questionable components, online listings are far less reliable. Sellers on popular online marketplaces may not always be aware of a clock’s history or may choose to omit important details.

When buying a clock, especially online, approach with caution. Examine all available photos carefully, looking for inconsistencies in the case, dial, hands, movement, and other components. Ask the seller direct questions about originality, repairs, or missing parts, and request additional photos if something seems unclear. If possible, compare the clock to known examples from reference books, collector forums, online image searches, or auction archives.

Be particularly wary of listings that provide vague descriptions, low-quality images, or no mention of service history. A clock that looks pristine may have been heavily restored, while one advertised as “original” may contain replacement parts that significantly affect its value. If purchasing in person, inspect the clock thoroughly—check for signs of “over-restoration”, mismatched components, or modern hardware securing old parts. If I see a Robertson or Phillips screws on a 100+-year-old clock I immediately back away.

Ultimately, knowledge is your best defense. The more informed you are about a particular clock model, the better equipped you’ll be to recognize potential red flags before making a purchase.

March 28, 2025 3

My Antique Wall Clock Collection: A Quick YouTube Tour

Allow me to take 5 minutes of your time to watch my video of 19 wall clocks in my collection. Each wall clock is identified by its maker, where known. The video features background music throughout, with a brief segment of sound highlighting the winding of a Mauthe wall clock. Otherwise, there is no dialog.

My only requirement is that the clock must be in good working order and have an appealing appearance.

_{19 wall clocks in my collection}

My entire collection consists of 85 clocks. Many are on display in my home, and some are in the process of restoration or repair.

Check out my Pequegnat clock video as well.

March 25, 2025 7

Repairing The Dial bezel Hinge On A Pequegnat Bedford

While working on my Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock recently, I made an unexpected discovery about the dial and bezel. I had always assumed the six-inch dial was original to the clock, believing it to be an anomaly or a one-off, as every other Bedford I’ve seen features a five-inch dial.

Restored Athur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock — _{Arthur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock}

Adding to the intrigue, I noticed for the first time that the dial lacks the Arthur Pequegnat inscription on the bottom part of the dial—a detail I had previously overlooked. Every Pequegnat clock I have ever seen has the manufacturer’s inscription on the dial.

_{No Arthur Pequegnat inscription on the dial}

When I acquired the clock some years ago, the bezel door was broken, and as a result, the glass dial bezel was push-fitted into the brass bezel base. The hinge had broken off at some point in its history.

I always intended to fix it, but it just never made it to the top of my to-do list. Recently, I decided to wind the clock and check if it was still running properly. I grabbed the catch to open it, and—whoops!—the dial fell right off. Apparently, I had forgotten it was broken. Well, perhaps this was the day to fix it.

I’d always wondered why the hinge wasn’t working, and sure enough when I inspected the dial and bezel, applied a little heat to the soldered hinge, and pried it loose, I found that only half of the hinge was actually there. Classic!

What is equally amusing is that I completely restored the case four or five years ago and did not notice the replacement dial at the time.

I removed the dial bezel to repair the broken hinge, and I discovered there were no screw holes for the hinge on the clock case itself. Instead, I found three smaller diameter holes, which would have been used to mount a 5-inch dial. This confirmed that the current dial is a replacement. The original design featured an integrated assembly of the dial, bezel, hinge, and glass. This version, however, uses a two-piece dial and bezel, with a hinge that was supposed to be attached to the case.

When Parts Are Not Original

Finding non-original parts on an antique clock is not uncommon, as many clocks have undergone repairs or alterations over the years. These changes may include replacement dials, bezels, hands, or other components that were damaged or lost. While such modifications can affect the clock’s originality and value, they are often part of its history and serve as evidence of its use and care over time.

Whether or not to replace non-original parts depends on your goals as a collector. If preserving originality is a priority, you might seek authentic replacement parts from the same era. However, if functionality and appearance are your main concerns, modern replacements or custom solutions can be a practical choice.

There are times, like this one, when the discovery comes long after you’ve acquired the clock.

In any event, it is essential to document any changes for future reference, especially if the clock is sold, to ensure its history is transparent.

The Hinge Repair

_{Arthur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock}

I plan to reuse the bezel but will attach a new hinge. I went through my collection of hinges to find the one that would be the best fit and while not exact I found one that was close.

The first step is to remove the hinge from the glass/brass bezel. It came off easily with a solder gun. I am the first to admit that my soldering skills are not top notch but I am eager to do my best.

The next step is to attach the new hinge to the dial/brass bezel. Once attached, it is test-fitted with the glass/bezel to ensure there is sufficient clearance for the door to close. In this case, there is not enough clearance, so I will need to grind down a section of the dial bezel. What initially seemed like a simple job has now become more complicated.

March 11, 2025 0

Watch My Short Video on all the Arthur Pequegnat Clocks in My Collection

I have a collection of 11 Arthur Pequegnat clocks, including three beautiful wall clocks which you can view on this 5-minute YouTube video.

I have written extensively about the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company, but to summarize: the company was founded in Berlin, Ontario (renamed Kitchener in 1917) in 1904 and produced its final clock in 1941.

As regular readers know, I have been a passionate collector for 15 years, I take great joy in repairing and restoring old clocks. My collection has grown to 85 unique timepieces, each with its own story.

Background music and titles are provided only. If you have any questions about my Pequegnat collection or a specific clock, feel free to leave a comment.

For more about my journey and insights into clock collecting, explore my other blog articles.

February 21, 2025 8

On My Workbench | Type 89 Movement by Seth Thomas and a Strike Side Issue

The Seth Thomas Type 89 movement is a robust and well-regarded mechanical clock movement widely used in many of Seth Thomas’ mantel and shelf clocks from the early 20th century to 1938.

The movement was introduced in 1900 and became one of Seth Thomas’ most popular and enduring movements.

There are several variants (89A, 89C, 89D, etc.), each tailored to specific clock models. The differences often involve small design adjustments like the escapement, strike train, or gearing. For example, some had solid back plates, some cut out, and some had a passing bell on the half-hour.

All Type 89 movements are time and strike and eight-day running and most use a strip pallet deadbeat escapement or according to Seth Thomas’s literature a “half deadbeat” escapement which is reliable and relatively easy to service. The most striking difference between the half-deadbeat and a recoil escapement is that the escape wheel teeth slant forward into the direction of rotation. Advantages: it was cheap to produce and still has fairly decent time-keeping ability. This video (no sound) shows the action of the escapement.

I consulted a chart (below) describing all the variations of the 89 and from what I can deduce this one is a type 89C movement.

Two Important strike-side Issues

The movement was in good condition overall. It was cleaned up and three new bushings were installed. The escape wheel bushings front and back were the most worn. The next was the fourth wheel front plate, adjacent to the escape wheel.

One minor hiccup when reassembling was dealing with a broken helper spring on the lifting lever. Shortening the spring by taking one coil off the arbour did not pose any running issues.

_{Taken directly from the case on the day of purchase}

However, once the cleaning and wear issues were addressed two other problems remained. The strike would not go into warning and the hammer did not move when the strike side was pushed to run.

It seems that whoever previously worked on it did not properly set up the strike side, likely neglecting to position the stop wheel correctly to ensure the strike mechanism would go into warning. Warning refers to a brief preparatory phase in the strike mechanism. This occurs just before the clock strikes. When the time approaches a strike point (such as the hour or half-hour), the movement enters the warning phase to prepare for the strike sequence. The warning phase is essential for ensuring the clock strikes consistently and on time. Improper setup of the warning phase can lead to the strike train failing to run.

While reassembling the movement, position the paddle lever in one of the indents on the cam while ensuring the paddle itself rests in a deep slot of the count wheel. The paddle should be straight into the deep slot without touching either side and pointed directly at the main wheel arbour.

The warning wheel can be adjusted after reassembly. Once all the wheels and levers are in their respective locations, carefully separate the plates slightly at the flywheel corner, ensuring no other components shift out of place. Then, when the pivot is out of its hole and the lantern pinion is disengaged from the adjacent gear, rotate the stop wheel until its pin meets the stop lever. If the levers are correctly positioned, the movement will enter the warning phase.

_{The stop wheel is at the upper right,} _{with the pin}

The second issue involved the hammer strike. A previous repairer had over-bent the strike rod, creating alignment problems. On the opposite side of the strike cam wheel are two striking pins, which the strike rod must reach to activate the hammer and sound the coiled gong. In this case, the rod had been positioned too close to the center, preventing it from contacting the strike pins. After some trial and error and careful bending of the strike rod, the movement is now properly aligned and able to sound the strike.

The final step is thorough testing. Placed on the test stand, the movement will be carefully monitored over the next several days to ensure everything functions smoothly and reliably.

A Special Note

I would also like to recognize Saint Valentine’s Day (February 14th) and I hope that everyone takes the time to cherish those around them, whether through a kind word, thoughtful gesture, or simply appreciating the moments that make life special. Happy Valentine’s Day!

February 14, 2025 2

Restoring a Vintage Mauthe Clock | Evoking Family Memories | Part I

It’s been about two years since I last worked on a Mauthe time and strike movement. While Mauthe clocks are fairly common, my attention has been directed toward other types of clocks and clock projects in recent years.

This is the first installment of a two-part series, offering initial impressions and background history of the clock, as well as outlining the plan for servicing the movement and addressing minor issues with the case.

This isn’t just any Mauthe box clock—it carries a significant family history. It was given to my father-in-law in the 1970s by his secretary, whose father originally owned it. I can still vividly recall the warm, familiar sound of its two-toned strike echoing through my in-laws’ home on Rupert Street in Amherst, Nova Scotia. Those gentle tones bring back fond memories of family gatherings at special times of the year. The house was eventually sold in 1996.

_{The house on Rupert; the original owners were the Tennant family}

Both the clock movement and the case are in surprisingly good condition, especially considering my father-in-law’s knack for being a bit rough around the edges and heavy-handed regarding repairs. His endearing awkwardness somehow spared this clock, which has stood the test of time remarkably well. It’s clear he went the extra mile with this clock because, upon disassembling the movement, I discovered evidence of servicing by a professional clock specialist.

German "box" clock by Mauthe — _{German “box” clock by Mauthe}

Although the clock was carefully stored it has not run in over 25 years. It is long overdue for a cleaning.

According to several online databases, the design of the trademark stamp suggests it was used by Mauthe after 1946. This places the clock’s production in the late 1940s to early 1950s.

Condition of the movement

To remove the movement from its case, start by unhooking the pendulum. Next, loosen the two screws securing the seatboard. Once these screws are released, the movement can slide out from the front. Detach the seatboard by unscrewing the two thumbscrews located on underneath and either side of the seatboard. Additionally, a unique pair of angled pieces that also hold the movement in place, fastened with wood screws, must also be removed.
This setup may seem a bit excessive, but it provides a secure and stable mounting for the movement.

After removing the seatboard, I examined the movement and was struck by how clean it remained despite years in storage. The pivots were completely dry, so I applied a small amount of oil to test its functionality—and it ran smoothly. A little oil is no substitute for a cleaning and I proceeded with disassembling the movement by first releasing the power of the mainsprings.

I’ll conclude here for now. Join me in my next article as I disassemble the movement, discuss what needs attention, and explore some of the issues and challenges associated with it as well as addressing minor issues with the clock case.

January 31, 2025 3

Troubleshooting A Strike Issue on a HAC/HAU Movement

The maker of the movement is HAU or HAC. The familiar cross arrows trademark of the maker is stamped on the movement, in the middle of the backplate.

HAC was formed in Germany in 1873 by Paul Landenberger and Phillipp Lang and was originally called Landenberger & Lang Uhrenfabrik. The company changed its name to Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik (HAU)/Hamburg American Clock Company (HAC) in 1883. The famous crossed-arrows became their trademark in 1892. In 1926 the company went into a cooperative with Junghans and in 1930 they finally merged with Junghans.

HAC/HAU clocks can be difficult to date prior to Junghans acquisition of HAC/HAU in 1930. Once Junghans and HAC began their collaboration in 1926 some of the movements were date coded.

Now on to the adjustment of the movement that is the subject of this article.

Strike Adjustment Required

Earlier in the fall this time and strike mantel clock was serviced. During the servicing six new bushings were installed, all components were cleaned, the mainsprings serviced and the clock reassembled and tested.

_{The movement has been cleaned and serviced}

However, during testing, the movement did not strike correctly. While there can be several causes, the most common of which is a misalignment of the hammer tail with the star points on the star wheel. This issue frequently arises during the reassembly of this type of clock movement.

Taking the time to carefully double-check the placement of parts, and ensure everything is in its correct place will help ensure the reassembly is smooth and successful. Once the wheels are in place there is only one multi-arm ever that resides between the plates. Position it such that the long arm rests in one of the deep slots of the count wheel while a short arm is placed in the cut-out of the cam wheel.

My usual practice is to position all the wheels and the lever(s) on the plate that has the movement posts, first. Once the wheels are correctly located, I lower the front plate onto the back plate. I secure two nuts to the mainspring end which prevents the movement plates from moving around as I position the upper wheels and their pivots in the train.

Setting up the strike side can be tricky. The wheels and levers must be set up correctly or the strike will not function. For instance, the width of the slots on the count wheel tells us that there is no “passing strike” on this movement. In some count wheel movements, for example, in many American-made movements, the half-hour is actuated by a cam on the centre arbour.

The pin-wheel, which is uppermost and one wheel removed from the fly on the strike side, is placed in approximately the 10 to 12 o’clock position, called the “warning” position. This allows for a half-turn to set up the strike.

To make the adjustment of the star wheel there is no need to completely disassemble the movement. Loosen the nuts on the strike side and gently lift the plate taking care not to dislodge the wheels on the time side. Disengage the star wheel from the adjacent wheel and rotate it slightly so that the hammer tail is in the middle of two of the star tips.

_{Tail and star point (arrows), in this photo, the tail is almost resting on the star point which is not the optimal position}

The adjustment was made. On the test stand, the hammer tail isn’t perfectly centered between two of the star points, but it should function adequately.

If the hammer tail is in contact with the star point at the end of the strike sequence, it will hold in the raised position and the strike may not function at all from that point onward. While you are making this adjustment, ensure that the strike lever spring (which is a straight wire) is on the outside of the strike arbour.

In Sum

Adjusting the strike mechanism on an HAC movement requires patience, precision, and attention to detail. By carefully aligning the hammer paddle, star wheel, and other components, you can restore the clock’s striking functionality and ensure reliable performance. While challenges such as this are common when reassembling these movements, a systematic approach and an understanding of the mechanism’s function can make the process smoother.

January 28, 2025 0

Why I Changed My Mind About the Dial Bezel on a Pequegnat Jewel Mantel Clock

After working on the dial of a Pequegnat Jewel mantel clock, I was very pleased with the results of the repaint. While the detailing may not withstand close scrutiny, the clock looks excellent from a comfortable distance.

When I brought the clock home, it appeared that a previous owner, frustrated by the loss of some or most of the paint on the dial, chose not to source a replacement but instead stripped the paint entirely, leaving only the numerals.

_{Photo taken on the day the clock was purchased}

Someone had gone to great lengths to meticulously scrape away all the paint, but the result is far from appealing.

Something Still Troubled Me

I decided to address the missing paint on the dial by repainting it and touching up the numerals, and the results met my expectations.

_{After repainting the dial and retouching the numerals}

It continued to bother me that the glass surround had a brassy gold appearance, while the dial bezel exhibited a bronze-like tone.

Although brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, with variations in composition potentially explaining this difference, I suspect that’s not the case here.

Instead, I believe the glass surround was originally painted gold, as small flakes of paint came off while I was cleaning it with a toothpick and cloth. Should I leave it as-is or match the outer bezel to the inner one? I’d have to think about it—a two-toned dial looked odd.

A Decision Was Made

Since the dial and surround had already been altered, I decided to take it a step further and repaint the inner bezel as well. With the right shade of acrylic paint on hand, I went ahead and tackled the task.

Some might argue that I went too far with the repainted dial and bezel, believing that any changes made to the clock over time are part of its history. However, I don’t share that perspective. To me, a poor repair from the past justifies taking steps to set things right. Leaving a damaged dial on a clock case that is otherwise in near-perfect condition would be a shame.

I have no regrets about my decision—if anything, I’ve now contributed to its history.

By correcting such mistakes, I believe I honour the intent and skill of the original maker. Restoring a clock to a condition closer to its authentic appearance helps preserve its aesthetic value for future generations.

What do you think?

January 17, 2025

Reflections on a Year of Clock Collecting and Less Time Repairing

As we enter a new year it is time to look back on the adventures and milestones I’ve experienced in the world of antique and vintage clock collecting and repair in the past year. 2024 has been one of discovery, growth, and deepening appreciation for the art of horology.

Over the past year, I have been shifting the focus of my collection. While I have acquired clocks from various countries, my interest has increasingly centered on Canadian clocks and those with a Canadian connection. This focus is evident in my acquisitions of the following clocks this year.

Adding to the Collection

My collection of Arthur Pequegnat clocks grew significantly this year with the addition of some standout pieces.

The Dandy and Hamilton Tall models were particular highlights, each offering unique insights into the craftsmanship and history of the Pequegnat Clock Company.

I also came across a rare find — a 30-hour Ogee clock by the Canada Clock Co., a true testament to Canadian clockmaking heritage. An interesting feature of this clock is the faux grain finish on the wood case, which was evidently a cost-saving measure by the company to make their prices competitive with American manufacturers at the time.

One of my most memorable acquisitions was an Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe clock (not pictured), purchased in 2018 from a shop in Victoria, British Columbia, for close to $200. This year, I added the Jewel model to my collection after spotting it on a high shelf at a local antique shop. Its price was surprisingly modest, coming in at less than a quarter the cost of the Simcoe making the find all the more satisfying. The addition of legs and side handles distinguishes it from the Simcoe.

My most interesting acquisition was not a Canadian clock but a German-made Kienzle wall clock, which was given to me by a gentleman in Ontario (Canada).

The clock had been passed down from his grandfather, and the seller hoped to find someone who would truly appreciate it. He contacted me for advice and asked about its value. I offered some insights and mentioned that if he was unable to sell it, I would be happy to take it off his hands. Honestly, I never expected to hear back from him after that.

Several months later, he reached out to tell me that he would be gifting it to me. We arranged a hand-off in a small village in Quebec, and it has since become part of my collection. It is a handsome clock with a resonant two-tone strike that is one of the most “complete” clocks in my collection (for more on this clock go here).

Repairing and Restoring

In 2024, I spent less time repairing and servicing clock movements, instead focusing on my blog, researching clocks and clock companies and their histories, and maintaining my collection.

On the repair front, I tackled several challenging yet rewarding projects, including a Seth Thomas Type 89 time and strike and a HAC/HAU time and strike movement. These were standard servicing tasks that presented minimal issues.

Generally, my servicing philosophy is to avoid replacing original components as much as possible but I always test and ensure they meet the clock’s functional requirements. This year reinforced my belief that preserving original parts is vital to maintaining a clock’s authenticity.

_{HAC (Hamburg American Clock Co.) movement with plate removed}

Among the repairs waiting their turn is the Danby model by Arthur Pequegnat which has been placed on the back burner due to other priorities. With three other movements to finish first, the servicing of those clocks plus the Danby will be projects for later in 2025.

Another project I’ll be tackling in 2025 is a family clock. This past year, I received my father-in-law’s clock for repair. It was passed down to my wife’s brother and has been out of service for over 25 years. I plan to return it fully serviced, and I hope that this stately Mauthe wall clock will take a prominent place in my brother-in-law’s home as a sentimental reminder of my wife’s father.

Sharing the Passion

This year celebrates seven years of blogging about clock collecting, repairs, and restoration. My blog has become a platform to share knowledge and stories, blending my love of writing, photography, and horology. Though I took a break for the holiday season, I look forward to returning this year with fresh content and inspiration.

One of the goals of this blog is to introduce antique and vintage clocks to younger generations and inspire an appreciation for these remarkable mechanical devices from the past. In today’s modern age of a throw-away culture, how many items can you think of that still function flawlessly after more than a century? It is a short list indeed!

A Special Milestone

In 2025, I will celebrate the remarkable milestone of reaching 1 million views, and I’ll be publishing a special article to mark the occasion. This achievement highlights the significant impact and reach of my content, demonstrating that my blog has resonated with a broad audience and built a dedicated following over time. Reaching this level of engagement is a testament to the value and quality of the information I share, making it an incredibly rewarding accomplishment as a creator.

A Broader Perspective

My collecting journey has always been intertwined with a sense of history and nostalgia. Yet, I’ve also faced the reality that interest in antique clocks is waning among younger generations. While my children may not share my passion, I find joy in preserving my clocks for future collectors or enthusiasts who might rediscover their charm. I hope that a younger generation will emerge and find value in collecting these old treasures.

My tastes and collecting habits are evolving, and I am increasingly focusing on Canadian-made clocks or those with a significant Canadian connection. This year, I may sell some of my more common clocks, which will reduce my collection to a more manageable size while still preserving my collection of 15 Canadian-made clocks.

Looking Ahead

As the New Year is upon us, I’m excited about the possibilities. My trip to the UK in 2024 provided opportunities to explore horological treasures, visit museums, and reconnect with my British heritage. Whether acquiring new clocks or deepening my understanding of their history, I’m eager to see where future journeys take me.

To all fellow enthusiasts and readers of my blog: thank you for your support and shared passion for these timeless pieces of history. Here’s to another year of celebrating the art and craft of clocks!

January 14, 2025

Pequegnat Jewel Dial Restoration | A Case For Inpainting | Part II

In Part I of this series, I shared my approach to restoring a clock dial through a process called inpainting. Inpainting is but one solution to the problem of a ruined dial. To restore a clock dial by bringing it back to its original state involves carefully mixing paint to match the original tones, gradually building up layers to cover exposed metal, and remedying prior modifications that detracted from the dial’s appearance. I also highlighted the challenges of repainting, emphasizing the precision and patience required. Part I concluded with the groundwork laid for further work on the dial.

The clock is an Arthur Pequegnat Jewel, manufactured before 1917. The exact year of manufacture is uncertain, as Pequegnat did not date stamp their clocks. The approximate period of manufacture is confirmed by the maker’s stamp, which includes “Berlin,” the original name of what is now Kitchener. The city’s name was changed in 1917 due to sentiments arising from the Great War. So, the clock was made somewhere between 1904, the first year of production for Pequegnat clocks, and 1916.

Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe mantel clock — _{Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe}

This model shares the exact case dimensions as the Simcoe but lacks certain decorative elements, making it one of the more affordable mantel clocks in their range.

The clock case features a piecrust dial bezel like the Simcoe, which was later replaced by a plain bezel in later years.

Arthur Pequegnat Jewel time and strike mantel clock with stripped dial — _{Pequegnat Jewel as found}

In terms of the dial restoration, Part II will build on the inpainting progress by applying additional coats, enhancing details like the numerals and chapter ring, and bringing the dial closer to its original elegance.

More Work Required on the Dial

After the second coat, the bare metal is still visible, indicating that at least one or two more coats will be necessary.

I decided to continue a shade darker for the next layer by adding a touch more brown, and after more thought, darker still for the next coat or two. Even at this stage, I’m beginning to notice a pleasant transformation in the dial, shifting from its stark metallic appearance to a more pleasing shade of cream.

Writer presenting the clock dial after a 3rd coat

For the third coat, I aimed to soften the yellow and achieve a more aged look. It’s rough at the moment, but I’m confident it will come together once I start applying black paint to the numerals. The good news is that the bare metal is no longer visible.

repainted clock dial — _{The dial is done, now for the numerals}

When placed against the case, the repainted dial is an improvement, but it’s clear that I’ll never fully replicate the original dial, even with my try at aging it.

The fourth coat has fully concealed the tin beneath, so, I’ll stop here. Next, I will focus on the numerals, using an artist’s detail brush and a Sharpie Ultra fine-point pen to carefully restore them.

Since the stripping process compromised the original numbers, I’ll use my Simcoe as a reference to reshape and refine their appearance. I’ll allow the paint to cure fully before moving on to the next step.

After cleaning the bezel, I noticed a distinct difference between the glass surround and the dial bezel. The glass surround has a brassy gold appearance, while the dial bezel exhibits a bronze-like tone. Although brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, with variations in composition potentially explaining this difference, I suspect that’s not the case here. Instead, I believe the glass surround was painted gold, as small flakes of paint came off while I was cleaning it with a toothpick. The bottom line? Best to leave it as is. Or match the outer bezel to the inner one? I’d have to think about that.

Here is the final result after a few touch-ups with black paint and some light polishing of the glass and both bezels.

Is it an improvement?

While it does not hold up to close scrutiny, there’s no denying it looks much better when viewed from a comfortable distance.

With the dial restored and the case cleaned, the final step will be servicing the time and strike movement to bring the clock to its full potential. While the improvement comes with its compromises, it’s satisfying to see the progress so far, and I’m eager to have this clock run smoothly after servicing.

January 7, 2025

Pequegnat Jewel Dial Restoration | A Case For Inpainting | Part I

As I continue to build my Pequegnat clock collection, I always seize a good deal when I find one, and the Jewel was too good to pass up. You might be wondering, what exactly is a Pequegnat clock and where does the Jewel fit into their model lineup?

A Pequegnat clock refers to clocks produced by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company, a renowned Canadian manufacturer active from 1904 to 1941 in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada. These clocks are celebrated for their quality craftsmanship and distinct place in Canadian horological history. Pequegnat clocks were a common feature in many Canadian homes.

I now have twelve Pequegnat clocks in my collection, consisting of several mantel clocks and three wall clocks.

In 2018, I purchased a Pequegnat Simcoe clock from a shop in Victoria, British Columbia, for nearly $200—a price I found fair at the time. More recently, I came across the Jewel model in an antique shop just 20 minutes from home. Though it was perched on a high shelf, I recognized it instantly. Given its significantly lower price, I couldn’t resist adding it to my collection.

_{An excellent price for a Pequegnat mantel clock}

The case dimensions of both are exactly the same and each has the earlier Berlin-style piecrust dial.

Three features differentiate the Jewel from the Simcoe. First, the Jewel was a less expensive clock. It is likely one of the least expensive mantel clocks in the Pequegnat mantel clock lineup, offering a more affordable option for many Canadian families.

Secondly, the Jewel lacks the lion’s head side handles and decorative feet found on the Simcoe.

Third, although the movement is identical to the Simcoe, the Jewel has a smaller gong block. A smaller gong block would still produce sound, but with a less resonant tone, which was considered an acceptable tradeoff for keeping production costs lower.

Condition of the dial

Unfortunately, the dial on the Jewel has been completely stripped of its paint. I’m willing to accept a dial with some imperfections—after all, the paint on the Simcoe’s dial is flaking, but that’s part of its aging process and what gives it its antique character.

However, a dial completely stripped of its paint, aside from the chapter ring and numerals, is unsightly and distracting. I completely understand why this was done. More expensive Pequegnat clocks featured enamel dials, while the more common models had painted dials, which are prone to flaking after many years and this clock must have had extensive paint loss.

While some might have left the dial as it was, viewing it as part of the clock’s history, the extent of the modification made it impossible for me to leave it as is. The fact that the clock only cost me $45 also made me more willing to take the risk to remediate the dial.

Repainting a dial is usually a last resort for me, and I wouldn’t recommend it unless you have steady hands, plenty of patience, the necessary materials, or the option to outsource the work to an artist friend or an expert. Outsourcing might be a good choice, particularly for dials with sentimental value, as it ensures the work is handled with precision and care by an expert. Preserving the integrity and charm of a cherished clock often warrants entrusting the work to skilled hands such as The Dial House.

Some time ago, I restored the dial on a Seth Thomas clock using a technique called inpainting, and I was very pleased with the results. I also touched up the dial to a Pequegnat Canuck shelf clock with very satisfactory results.

A decision was made

As I considered my options, I decided that if the inpainting did not turn out as planned, I could always order a paper dial from an eBay supplier and place it over the original.

_{The paint was painstakingly scraped away, but the result was far from pleasing}

However, the cost of the dial alone would exceed what I paid for the clock. Besides, I’m not particularly fond of paper dials.

I know that once I’m done with the dial, my artistic “talent” will be apparent upon close inspection. However, I’m confident it will be an improvement over its current state.

To carry out this procedure, the hands, dial/bezel must be removed. There are just two screws at 3 and 9 o’clock that hold the dial assembly in place. Once the assembly is removed, the glass and its bezel can be separated from the dial and set aside.

Once the dial was removed, I cleaned the stripped surface with isopropyl alcohol. It evaporates quickly and leaves no residue, and since the dial had no remaining paint aside from the chapter ring and numerals, I wasn’t concerned about damaging the finish and simply worked around the painted areas.

The dial was likely originally white but had aged to a darker cream color over time. To recreate this, I mixed a touch of canary yellow with cotton ball white to achieve the perfect shade. I used both a broad artist’s brush and a fine-point detail brush to apply the first coat. Multiple coats are necessary, but the first coat needs to be cured before adding another.

I’m using water-based acrylic paint, which is self-sealing and becomes permanent when baked at low heat however, this dial will not be spending time in an oven. Once another coat or two is applied I can use a pointed tip detail brush to reshape the numerals using black paint.

The first coat is acceptable, though a bit blotchy due to the uneven spread of paint across the dial. The tin was very visible, so I knew that more than one coat would be necessary.

I mixed the yellow and white paint the same way for the second coat, this time adding a touch of chocolate brown.

However, the bare metal is still visible, indicating that at least one or possibly two more coats will be needed. I’m considering going a shade darker for the next layer by adding a touch more brown, but I’ll take some time to think it over before deciding. I’m starting to notice a lovely transformation in the dial, shifting from its stark tin appearance to a more pleasing shade of cream.

That wraps up Part I of this two-part series. In Part II, coming in the new year, I’ll continue the restoration process by applying additional coats to the dials and refining the numerals and chapter ring. Stay tuned!

December 20, 2024

The Rare Brass Mainsprings of Elisha Manross Clocks

When discussing American clocks, the name Elisha Manross might not come to mind as readily as prominent makers like Seth Thomas, New Haven, or Waterbury. However, Elisha Manross (1792–1856) played a pivotal role as a pioneer in the development of Connecticut clockmaking.

In 1812, at the age of 20, Elisha Manross, along with John Cowls, opened a shop in Bristol, Connecticut. Initially focused on woodturning, Manross did not set out to be a clockmaker. In 1825, he began making clock parts for other clockmakers. By 1835, Bristol was home to over a dozen clock factories producing woodworks clocks, and that year, Manross started producing clocks of his own. The 1837 depression marked the decline of wooden movement clocks and the rise of brass movements, particularly those invented and produced by Jerome¹.

In the early years of clock production, materials were limited, and brass was commonly used for most components.

Brass mainsprings are exceptionally rare, and a clockmaker could easily go their entire career without encountering one. This is because brass mainsprings were only used for a brief period in American clockmaking history. Although carbon steel springs were used in Europe as early as the 1760s this technology was not used in America until the late 1840s.

From 1836 to 1850, brass was relatively inexpensive and readily available as a mainspring material due to the high cost of steel at the time. Brass is certainly not the best material to use as a mainspring since it is not as strong as steel and it loses its elasticity over time.

_{Tempered brass mainspring, American Clock and Watch Museum, Bristol Connecticut, June 2019}

In 1847, the tempered steel mainspring, designed for everyday clocks, was introduced. This innovation quickly rendered brass mainsprings obsolete, relegating them to a niche chapter in horological history.

It is common for 30-hour time-and-strike Gothic steeple clocks, like this one by Elisha Manross, to feature steel mainsprings. Why? Because the original brass mainsprings broke and were replaced. The fact that this clock retains its original brass mainsprings in excellent condition suggests that it has led a relatively gentle life despite evidence of other repairs made to the movement over the years.

_{Elisha Manross 30 hour movement, as found}

While some might consider replacing the brass with steel mainsprings, my priority was to maintain the originals. These brass mainsprings represent a significant chapter in the history of American clockmaking and deserve to remain in the movement where they belong.

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December 17, 2024

Relocating A Shelf Clock To A…Well, A shelf

For years, my Seth Thomas column and cornice clock rested atop an antique radio in our living room. However, after redecorating the space with hardwood flooring in place of the carpet, the radio and clock no longer suited the updated space.

Seth Thomas column and cornice "Empire" style time and strike shelf clock — _{Seth Thomas column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike weight driven shelf clock}

I did not want to relegate the clock to storage, so I opted to find it a new spot in our home. Since most of the other rooms already had plenty of clocks, I decided to display it in my office.

This lovely Seth Thomas time and strike eight-day weight-driven column and cornice clock with hour strike features an attractive veneer case with cove molded crest, lyre movement, three-quarter columns in painted gold, and two glass doors, one with a reverse painted design, opening to the interior clock works which reveal a tin painted dial and the original printed and illustrated Seth Thomas clock makers label. It is 32″ tall, 18″ wide and 5“ deep.

The clock has one unique detail: while the lower tablet is original, the upper tablet was recreated from a photograph of hanging fruit, modified to complement the design below. Additionally, the dial, which had suffered some losses in the corners and chapter ring, was repainted.

The painted tin Roman Numeral dial has hand-decorated flower spandrels in all four corners with the centre portion of the brass lyre movement visible through the dial.

Among collectors an appropriate descriptor for this clock is “column and cornice” but it is also generally classified as a shelf clock. This particular clock features a hook on the top of its case, likely intended by a past owner for installation that way. While I have seen similar clocks mounted like this online, they were never originally designed to be hung.

However, the hook might serve an additional purpose. Given that these clocks can become top-heavy when fully wound, the hook could be an effective way to secure the clock to a wall, especially in areas where it might be easily bumped.

Building the Shelf

The first step was to build a shelf to accommodate the clock. I had some leftover 8-inch-deep pine boards from a previous project, which were ideal for this purpose. I purchased extra pine braces some time ago, and they turned out to be perfect for completing the project. I cut a piece about 22 inches long and painted it a shade of beige. The base of the clock is 18 inches leaving 2 inches on either side.

The next step was to mount the braces to the wall. Knowing the room had studs spaced 16 inches apart, I used a stud finder to locate the first stud and then measured 16 inches to find the second one.

Once the braces were mounted and made level I installed the shelf using wood screws.

Checking for the Correct Beat

Now to determine if the shelf is level and the clock is in beat. Using a Timetrax Clock Timing Machine I switched to the BAL feature to check the beat.

_{Timetrax microphone attached to the winding arbour}

A beat adjustment was unnecessary as the clock was already leveled. If leveling were needed, it would simply involve slightly bending the crutch incrementally to find the beat. While checking the beat can easily be done by ear, it made sense to use my Timetrax device for greater precision.

According to the Timetrax instruction manual If the beat is within plus or minus 20 the clock is in beat. In this case, it was almost dead on.

_{Seth Thomas clock mounted on a shelf (note repainted dial)}

Once the beat is confirmed, the weights are replaced, the hands and dial can be reattached, and the pendulum is given a slight push.

After confirming the beat the clock was ready to be displayed in its new spot. This Seth Thomas column and cornice clock, with its exquisite veneer case and distinctive features, now takes pride of place in my office, where it brings an added touch of elegance to the room. Moreover, since the room houses many spring-driven clocks, a weight-driven clock will provide a more accurate reference for timekeeping.

I’m pleased to have found a new location for it, as it truly deserves to be on display.

December 6, 2024

The Art of Minimal Invasive Clock Preservation

Kienzle clock on display with Ingraham Huron

The term minimal invasive intervention refers to the delicate decision-making process regarding how much work should be done to repair, restore, or conserve a clock without significantly altering its original character. It encapsulates a challenge many collectors face: balancing preservation with functionality.

Some argue that any work performed on an antique clock detracts from its value, much like installing new fenders on an antique car. While it may improve appearance or functionality, it might make the piece less desirable to purists. So, at what point does intervention—however well-intentioned—compromise a clock’s value?

When original parts, particularly the movement or key aesthetic features, are replaced with non-original or modern components, the clock often loses collector value. Authenticity is a cornerstone of desirability for collectors. Replacing a worn movement with a reproduction or modern equivalent significantly reduces value, even if it restores functionality.

Excessive restoration, such as refinishing to a like-new condition, can erase the patina, wear, or other marks of age that contribute to the clock’s historical character. Collectors value the evidence of a clock’s journey through time.

Alterations that cannot be undone, such as resizing a case, changing its design, or permanently altering the movement, reduce value. Reversibility is crucial in maintaining collector interest.

Intervention may not compromise value if the repair restores function without altering original materials or craftsmanship. Rebushing and cleaning are interventions but are generally considered acceptable practices.

I always maintain that there should be Respect for Provenance, that is, preserving historical repairs, markings, documentation, and patina when they tell the clock’s story through the ages. In addition, using methods and materials appropriate to the clock’s era maintain authenticity.

Let’s look at some definitions.

Repair, Restoration, and Conservation Defined

Repair involves correcting faults or addressing prior poor repairs, often resulting in changes to a clock’s form or function. Repair in a museum context typically addresses specific problems to restore mechanical function or structural integrity while still respecting the clock’s historical value and authenticity.
Restoration seeks to return the clock to an “as new” condition, sometimes requiring reconstruction of parts of the movement or case. Restoration in a museum context involves returning an antique clock to a state that reflects its original appearance or function, often as close as possible to how it was when first made.
Conservation focuses on preserving the clock in its current state while protecting it from further deterioration. This approach aims to maintain the clock as close to its original condition as possible for as long as possible. Conservation in this context prioritizes maintaining the clock’s historical authenticity and ensuring it can be studied and appreciated by future generations. This approach is guided by principles of reversibility, documentation, and respect for the original materials and craftsmanship. A reversible repair means future conservators can undo them if needed.

Some amount of intervention is often necessary and even desired by collectors, but how much is always a delicate balance.

A Case in Point: 1878 E. Ingraham Huron Clock

_{E Ingraham Hurons were made between 1878 and 1880}

Take, for example, an 1878 E. Ingraham Huron time-and-strike balloon clock from my collection. The 16-inch high rosewood case is remarkably well-preserved for its 146 years, with no breaks, cracks, or missing pieces. The hands, pendulum bob, sash, and bezel hardware are all original, as is the movement. The case has been gently cleaned with soap and water and given a light coat of shellac for protection.

The clock face retains a layer of grime that contributes to its aged character, which I chose to leave untouched. However, the movement has suffered from less-than-professional repairs, likely due to the lack of skilled clockmakers in small-town Nova Scotia (Canada) during the clock’s early life. These repairs include soldered joints and realigned gears with pivot holes drilled directly into the plates—techniques probably applied in the 1940s, when soldering guns became more accessible.

Solder repair on an Ingraham Huron — _{Solder repair on the Huron} _movement

The clock ran for two or three days before stopping, and even nudging the pendulum provides only a temporary fix. On removing the movement from its case, the extent of these invasive repairs becomes more apparent. Even more apparent was the need for a full servicing.

Deciding on the Right Approach

After consulting a certified horologist, we discussed the options: repair, restore, or conserve? He shared an example of a customer’s kitchen clock (or “Gingerbread clock”), a common family heirloom. While these clocks are rarely of high monetary value, they often hold deep sentimental significance.

He typically repairs such clocks but occasionally replaces irreparable movements with period-correct ones—an option acceptable to many owners, but one that collectors generally frown upon and approach I did not care for.

In the case of my Huron, replacing the movement would significantly reduce its value as a collector’s item. Restoring the original movement, however, would maintain its authenticity and desirability. That is the route we took.

Guiding Questions for Intervention

When deciding how to proceed with any antique or vintage clock, I consider the following:

Does undoing damage from a previous poor repair qualify as overly invasive?
If the repair was performed soon after the clock was made and is historically documented (e.g., markings inside the case), should it remain untouched?
Does the poor repair add or subtract from the clock’s historical provenance, making it part of its story?
Would restoring the movement to its original state be considered a repair or a restoration?
Does removing all solder work qualify as a minimally invasive intervention?
Will the repair enhance or detract from the clock’s value?
Would leaving the clock unrestored qualify as conservation?

The poor repair needed to be addressed. I believe that correcting a subpar repair will always restore the clock’s functionality without diminishing its value. Since only minimal work was done on the case and nothing was done to the dial, I would classify this approach as a repair plus conservation.

The Collector’s Dilemma

Collectors often value clocks that remain as untouched as possible. A pristine, unaltered antique clock that runs is exceedingly rare. However, some intervention is inevitable if the goal is to preserve function, as long as it respects the clock’s historical and aesthetic integrity.

In my view, conservation and repair align most closely with minimal invasive intervention and restoration is inherently more intrusive. Deciding how far to go with a clock involves weighing its historical significance, its condition, and your goals as a collector or caretaker.

When I acquire a clock, the first question I ask is: what outcome am I aiming for based on the price I paid? For inexpensive mantel clocks, I’m willing to undertake extensive case repairs, recognizing that a clock purchased cheaply likely won’t gain significant value. However, for more desirable clocks, I adopt a more cautious approach, carefully determining the minimal work needed to restore functionality and enhance the case’s appearance.

I’d like to hear your views on this subject and how you approach this delicate balance!

November 29, 2024

Why Nova Scotia Should Eliminate Daylight Saving Time

When local daylight time approaches Sunday, November 3, 2024, at 2:00 AM, clocks will be set back one hour to 1:00 AM local standard time instead. As a result, on November 3, 2024, sunrise and sunset will occur approximately one hour earlier than the previous day. This change means there will be more daylight in the morning and less in the evening, which may be viewed positively or negatively depending on your perspective on whether to maintain daylight saving time or eliminate it altogether.

While DST was initially implemented to save energy by extending daylight hours, studies have shown that the actual energy savings are minimal, and in some cases, it may even lead to increased energy consumption due to factors like air conditioning usage. Businesses may face disruptions during the transitions due to scheduling conflicts and decreased productivity, as employees adjust to the time change.

Some argue that the original environmental benefits of DST are no longer relevant due to changes in modern energy consumption patterns and lifestyles.

Spring Forward | Fall Back

“Spring Forward – Fall Back” is a phrase most often heard in the USA and Canada. In North America the word “fall” is used to denote the season, while other English-speaking countries call it autumn. Set your clocks forward 1 hour in the spring at the start of DST (Daylight Saving Time), and 1 hour back in the fall when DST ends.

Records show that the phrase “spring forward, fall back” has been in use at least as far back as the early 20th century. It is the practice of advancing clocks during summer months so that evening daylight lasts longer, while sacrificing normal sunrise times.

Not all regions observe DST, which can create confusion and complications for scheduling across time zones, particularly for businesses and travel.

Let’s eliminate DST!

I suggest everyone contact their local government representative to advocate for this change.

I have recently written my government representative to address this matter.

Dear Sir,

I hope this letter finds you well. As a constituent in your riding, I would like to raise a matter of public interest that I believe would benefit many people across our province: the elimination of Daylight Saving Time (DST) in Nova Scotia.

While originally introduced with the intention of conserving energy, there is growing evidence that Daylight Saving Time no longer serves this purpose effectively. Studies have shown that the energy savings are minimal, if not non-existent, in modern times. Moreover, the biannual time changes disrupt sleep patterns, negatively affect mental and physical health, and contribute to increased workplace and road accidents in the days immediately following the switch.

Many regions across the world have already moved to eliminate DST, recognizing the advantages of maintaining a consistent time schedule year-round. In Canada, several provinces, including British Columbia and Ontario, have considered or are already making steps towards abandoning the practice. The province of Quebec is also probing the time change drop.

Nova Scotians, like others, would benefit from this shift. Adopting a consistent time schedule year-round would improve productivity, support public health, and reduce confusion for businesses and individuals. Additionally, many people today are calling for more stability in their routines, which this change would support.

As my MLA, I encourage you to advocate for the discontinuation of Daylight Saving Time in Nova Scotia. I believe this move would be widely appreciated by many residents, and I am hopeful that it can become a part of the legislative agenda in the near future.

Thank you for your time and attention to this matter. I look forward to hearing your thoughts on this issue and any steps that may be taken in this direction.

Sincerely,
Ron Joiner

November 1, 2024

Exploring a 30-hour Ogee clock from the Canada Clock Co. (Hamilton)

I recently had the opportunity to expand my collection with more Canadian-made clocks, including a 30-hour Ogee clock produced by the Canada Clock Co. at their Hamilton plant between 1880 and 1884.

Canadian clock companies have historically struggled to survive due to fierce competition from American manufacturers. Companies like Westclox in Peterborough survived largely due to their connections with U.S. parent companies, while smaller firms like Pequegnat persevered independently for as long as possible until the market and materials eventually declined.

Clockmaking in Whitby & Hamilton, Ontario

From 1872 to 1884, a group of Canadian clockmakers sought to compete with American companies by producing locally-made clocks designed for the Canadian market.

The Canada Clock Co. (Whitby, Ontario), the Hamilton Clock Co. (Hamilton, Ontario), and the Canada Clock Company (Hamilton, Ontario) faced significant challenges in the 19th century during a 12-year span as they sought to establish Canada’s presence in the clock-making industry.

The Canada Clock Co. was founded in Whitby, Ontario, in 1872, but its operations ceased after just four years, largely due to a catastrophic factory fire.

In 1876, key figures from the failed company, including manager John Collins, relocated to Hamilton to form the Hamilton Clock Co. Despite this renewed effort, the company folded after four years, halting production in 1880.

Later that year, another attempt was made to revive the industry with the creation of a new Canada Clock Co., reusing the old name and operating out of the former Hamilton Clock Co. factory. Unfortunately, success remained elusive, and the company declared bankruptcy in 1884, marking the end of a dozen turbulent years of clock production in the Canadian market.

Movements were made in Canada though they were essentially copies of American movements, most notably those manufactured by the Waterbury Clock Company. Case styles were also “borrowed” from Waterbury, Ansonia, and New Haven. Made in Canada, yes, original designs, no!

30-hour Ogee Clocks

Fortunately, many clocks from the three companies have survived to this day and occasionally they show up on online auction sites and other for-sale sites.

I have one other Ogee clock from this group of companies, one from the Hamilton Clock Company. It is exactly the same dimensions as a typical American Ogee of that time and mirrors the clock’s dimensions described in this article.

The brass movement of the Hamilton clock is a 30-hour time and strike and weight driven. Of particular interest is the use of an etched tablet that resembles a silk screen technique.

I have four other 30-hour Ogee clocks, two from Chauncey Jerome, a George H. Clark, and a Waterbury. All share the same dimensions as my two Canadian-made clocks.

Why were they so popular?

They were popular in the 19th century for a number of reasons. Most households did not need clocks with extended run times, and daily winding became a routine part of life, so the 30-hour duration was not seen as a disadvantage.

They were more affordable to produce and purchase, making them accessible to a broader audience. The weight-driven mechanism was simple, reliable, and required little maintenance. Unlike steel springs, which were expensive to manufacture in the early days, the weights were cheap to produce, further reducing costs.

Finally, the Ogee clock’s distinctive double-curved molding often made with exotic veneers was visually appealing and complemented the furniture styles of the period.

Canada Clock Company Ogee

My latest Ogee was made between 1880 and 1884 at the Canada Clock Co. factory in Hamilton, Ontario.

This clock has several intriguing features. First, it is the only one in my Ogee collection that includes an alarm function. Before the widespread availability of affordable alarm clocks or reliable pocket watches, many people relied on their household clock to wake them up in the morning. This was especially helpful in agrarian societies, where waking up early was essential for tending to livestock or starting farm work.

Second, the glass tablet showcases a unique cherub figure that differs from any designs I have encountered on similar clocks from the three companies. Unfortunately, the cherub has partially faded over time.

Third, the clock features an imitation wood-grained finish that I have not encountered on other Ogee clocks. Genuine exotic or high-quality wood, such as mahogany or rosewood, was expensive. By using cheaper, locally available wood like pine or basswood and applying a faux wood grain finish, clockmakers could mimic the look of luxurious woods at a fraction of the cost.

_{Overall the imitation grain looks good}

While most of the “grain” is still intact, some of it has worn away in the Ogee section on the right side. Although it requires cleaning, I must be careful to preserve the “grain.”

Fourth and final, it is one of the few Ogee clocks I have encountered that still has the dust blocks for the pulleys intact. There are two, one on each side located on the top of the case. These are frequently lost at some point in the clock’s life.

The label is mostly intact missing the bottom left-hand corner section. A clock’s label includes the name of the manufacturer. This helps identify where the clock was made and by whom, which is essential for authentication. This is particularly important when there is no maker’s stamp on the movement.

Servicing and Cleaning

This might turn into a winter project since I have several clocks waiting for servicing. However, I’d like to focus on the case first to preserve the faux grain. The plan is to give it a light cleaning and apply a coat or two of traditional shellac to help protect the finish.

I noticed that the hammer lever (strike-side) got stuck when I briefly ran the clock. It’s probably just a small adjustment, but I’ll need to disassemble the movement regardless. While I’m at it, I will also take care of any wear issues.

October 11, 2024

Dandy by Pequegant | An Affordable, Everyday Clock

I recently added two more Pequegnat clocks to my collection: the Hamilton Tall which you can read about here and the Danby model, which I will be profiling in this article. This brings my total to 12 Arthur Pequegnat clocks.

Let’s start with some background on the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. and its significance in Canadian clockmaking.

The Pequegnat Clock Company, founded by Swiss immigrant Arthur Pequegnat in 1904 in Kitchener, Ontario (then Berlin), operated until 1941. Initially a jewelry shop, Pequegnat expanded into bicycle manufacturing in 1897. However, as demand for bicycles declined, he shifted to clockmaking, utilizing his existing plant for producing clock movements. The company’s motto, “Buy Canadian – Pequegnat clocks are better than foreign-made ones,” appealed to Canadian consumers.

Pequegnat initially sourced wooden clock cases from local furniture makers before producing its own, earning a reputation for high-quality, reliable clocks in various designs, including wall, mantel, and hall clocks. Unfortunately, the brass shortage during the Second World War signaled the end of the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co.

The Danby

While the Hamilton Tall is considered a prestigious parlour clock, the Danby occupies the opposite end of the spectrum. This is reflected in its auction price, making it one of the least expensive Pequegnat clocks I have purchased.

According to the general definition of a mantel clock, the Danby can be classified as a shelf clock. It measures 4.5″ x 21″ x 9.5″, with its movement housed in a walnut veneered case.

The Danby was directly competing with an influx of mantel clocks from American companies, and to remain competitive, they must have sold it with minimal profit margins and this is reflected in its build quality.

While some of the last Danbys showcased an Art Deco dial, this particular model features the simpler tin painted dial. Notably, the name “Pequegnat” is positioned one-third of the way up from the center arbor on the dial face. At that time, thanks to its brand recognition, it wasn’t necessary to display the entire company name on the dial.

Additionally, the movement lacks a regulating feature, so to adjust the clock’s speed, you must change the length of the pendulum bob. In short it is as simple as it gets for a Pequegnat 8-day time and strike clock. Notably, it has a tuned rod gong which would have been considered an upgrade.

A common feature of Pequegnat movements is their nickel-plated front and back plates, which provided a polished, attractive finish that appealed to customers.

Initially, the Pequegnat Clock Company used steel plates for their clock movements but transitioned to brass plates. Steel plates were more prone to rust and corrosion, while brass offered better resistance and was easier to machine, making it a more suitable choice for clockmaking. Pequegnat continued to nickel-plate the movements to enhance the clock’s perceived quality.

Numerous Pequegnat models were produced over the extended period from 1904 to 1941, making it difficult to determine the exact manufacturing dates for specific clocks. However, I feel confident in stating that this clock was made in the months leading up to the closing of the factory in 1941.

Overall Condition of the Case

The case is dark walnut veneered, which was a common practice for “everyday” clocks during the pre-war period. This construction method helped reduce production costs. It’s also possible that by this time, Pequegnat had resumed the practice of outsourcing their cases as there were several companies in Toronto, notably Walter Clocks and the Blackforest Clock Co. that produced cases for clock movements imported from England, Germany and France.

The case has been refreshed, and aside from requiring a cleaning, it looks presentable. However, the dial is in rough condition, with both the numerals and the surface having faded from wear and tear. I may touch up the numerals with black paint but there is not much I can do about the face itself.

I’m uncertain about the dial bezel; it should be brass but has a more copper-like colour. The bezel did not age well given the amount of tarnishing.

There is a good label, but it isn’t attached to the case. I may tape it to the inside of the door, as gluing a label with impregnated oil on wood is challenging.

The Plan

I have several other movements to work on before I can get to the Danby, which may remain on the back burner for a few months.

In the meantime, I noticed an issue right away: the center arbour cam hangs on the “J” hook, forcing it against the time side mainspring, which stops the clock. It won’t release unless I advance the minute hand. The movement will need to be completely disassembled to reposition the hook, but that will have to wait for another day.

October 8, 2024

Exploring the Iconic Hamilton Tall Clock by Pequegnat

I recently added two more Pequegnat clocks to my collection: the Dandy model and the Hamilton Tall, the latter of which I will be profiling in this article. I now have a total of 12 Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my possession.

For those unfamiliar with the Pequegnat name, the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company is arguably the most iconic antique clockmaker in Canada. No Canadian antique clock collection would be complete without a Pequegnat piece.

The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company

The Pequegnat Clock Company was a Canadian clock manufacturer that operated from 1904 to 1941. It was founded by Arthur Pequegnat, a Swiss immigrant who brought his family to Canada in search of a new beginning.

Pequegnat, a skilled clockmaker and entrepreneur, saw an opportunity to establish his own clock company in Kitchener, Ontario (then known as Berlin). However, the story of the Pequegnat clocks begins even before 1904.

In 1897, Arthur expanded his Berlin jewelry shop to include bicycle manufacturing. By 1904, with declining demand for bicycles, he shifted focus to clockmaking, using his Berlin Bicycle Manufacturing plant to produce clock movements. The company’s motto, “Buy Canadian – Pequegnat clocks are better than foreign-made ones,” resonated with Canadian consumers.

_{Taken at The Canadian Clock Museum, Deep River, Ontario}

Initially, Pequegnat sourced wooden clock cases from local furniture makers, but eventually, the company began producing its own cases. The Pequegnat Clock Company became known for high-quality, reliable clocks, offering a wide range of designs, including wall clocks, mantel clocks, and hall clocks.

The Hamilton Tall

Cashing in on Canada’s identity as a nation, Pequegnat saw the value in naming clocks after Canadian cities, cities such as Stratford, London, Toronto, Moncton, Montreal, and, of course, Hamilton. This marketing strategy undoubtedly struck a tone with buyers.

Interestingly, there are two models named Hamilton, which collectors differentiate as the “Tall” model and the “Wide” model (or shorter and taller by some). Among the two, the Tall model is considered more desirable by collectors.

Another model, which could have been a variant of the Hamilton but instead named St. Thomas, shares an identical case. However, it has a mission-style dial, which, in my opinion, complements the case more effectively. In the photo below, the St. Thomas is shown in the bottom left corner.

_{St. Thomas on the bottom left, photo taken at The Canadian Clock Museum}

Berlin, Ontario, was renamed Kitchener in 1916, due to anti-German sentiment during World War I. This change provides a useful reference when dating Pequegnat clocks, as labels, movements, or dials marked “Berlin” indicate the clock was made in 1916 or earlier, while those marked “Kitchener” were produced after 1916. However, many Pequegnat models were produced over an extended period, making it challenging to pinpoint exact manufacturing dates for specific clocks.

_{Time and strike movement with a two-toned strike}

A common characteristic of Pequegnat movements is the nickel-plated front and back plates. Nickel-plated movements had a more polished, attractive finish, further appealing to customers.

The Pequegnat Clock Company initially used steel plates for their clock movements but later transitioned to brass plates, with the shift occurring around 1907-1908 (though this date is unconfirmed). Steel plates were more susceptible to rust and corrosion, whereas brass offered greater resistance to corrosion and was easier to machine, making it a more suitable material for clockmaking. Despite this transition, Pequegnat continued to nickel-plate the movements to further protect against wear and enhance the perceived quality of the clocks.

The heavy brass-sheathed pendulum bob is visible through a glass panel on the front of the case.

Two Issues

Two factors keep this clock from being in perfect condition. First, a keen eye will notice that it has two strike hammers but only one rod gong. At some point, the second rod broke off. Tuned rods, considered an upgrade in a Pequegnat clock, contribute to a rich and vibrant sound. I have not investigated the movement closely but it appears that the half-hour strike is meant to strike the rod that is missing.

I spoke with the previous owner, who had the clock for several years, and he mentioned that it was already in that condition when he acquired it. He had been in the process of sourcing a new gong block and rod, but due to personal issues, he was forced to sell off his collection before completing the repair.

_{Rod block on the upper right of the photo}

The second is the lack of a label. Labels often contain artwork, company logos, or slogans, adding to the clock’s aesthetic and historical charm. A clock with an intact, legible label is often considered more desirable and can command a higher price than one without.

That said, the case is in very good condition, and despite minor imperfections—such as one or two nicks and a slightly dented lower left front corner—it has held up remarkably well for a 110-year-old clock.

Case Construction and Condition

The case is made of quarter-sawn oak and stained dark oak. Quarter-sawn oak is not a type of oak but is created by cutting the wood logs at a specific angle—perpendicular to the growth rings. Quarter-sawn oak is more stable and less prone to warping, splitting, or twisting over time compared to flat-sawn wood. This makes it an ideal material for long-lasting clock cases.

The enemy of a clock case—moisture—is effectively mitigated by using quarter-sawn oak.

Most importantly, quarter-sawn oak enhances the grain in any clock case. The dark stain has a rich, elegant appearance, but it requires cleaning and polishing to restore it to its original condition.

_{A portion of the interior is unstained}

For reasons unknown to this writer the company chose not to stain the entire interior of the case. It is not just this clock but other Hamiltons I have seen online.

_{The Pequegnat name with Berlin as the place of manufacture is on the bottom part of the dial}

The clock was available with two types of dials: a plain spun-brass dial and a piecrust dial. This particular clock features a simpler, more understated dial. The dial itself appears to be enamel-coated, distinguishing it from the painted dials typically found on their less expensive models. All Hamiltons had spade hands.

A notable feature is the two flanking quarter columns adorned with wood-carved capitals.

A Prestigious Clock for the Times

Arthur Pequegnat manufactured a range of clocks for the general public, but for those who could afford it, more ornate and visually appealing options were available. These luxurious designs conveyed a sense of status and sophistication, making them highly attractive parlour clocks.

Two challenges

In the coming weeks, I will be exploring options for the missing rod gong. Should I look for a replacement gong block and rods, or should I consider finding a second rod?

The second challenge is the case. The case appears to be in good condition and is definitely not a candidate for refinishing; however, a light sanding and waxing might be all it needs to give it a refreshed look.

The previous owner did not service the movement, so it will require cleaning. In the meantime, it runs well, keeps accurate time, and strikes—though only on one gong—on the hour.

October 4, 2024

Winter 2017

Spring 2020

December 2020

Fall 2024

Spring 2025

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A word about Clock Cases

The Case

Finally

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Servicing the Movement

Reassembly

Testing

Summary

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Key Takeaway

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Deciding How Many Clocks to Display

Placement Considerations

The Art of Thoughtful Display

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A Case in Point -A Gustav Becker Two-Weight Vienna Regulator

The Glass Panels

The Weights

The Movement

Other Replacements and Repairs

Lessons Learned

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When Parts Are Not Original

The Hinge Repair

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Two Important strike-side Issues

A Special Note

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Condition of the movement

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Strike Adjustment Required

In Sum

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Something Still Troubled Me

A Decision Was Made

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Adding to the Collection

Repairing and Restoring

Sharing the Passion

A Special Milestone

A Broader Perspective

Looking Ahead

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More Work Required on the Dial

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Condition of the dial

A decision was made

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Building the Shelf

Checking for the Correct Beat