Assessing Antique and Vintage Clock Values: Key Factors

Every clock owner wants to know what their clock is worth, and every seller hopes to sell for as much as possible. This guide offers a framework to evaluate antique and vintage clocks for both buyers and sellers, starting with insights into the unpredictable clock market.

The Unpredictable Clock Market

Determining the value of a clock is often challenging. The market fluctuates, and what you think your clock is worth today may not align with expert opinions or what buyers are willing to pay. Trends come and go, and the value of clocks can drop or rise unexpectedly.

For example, I once came across a mid-1990s Howard Miller grandfather clock listed on Facebook Marketplace for $3,000. After several days with minimal interest, the seller gradually lowered the price to $1,500, but it still did not sell. In reality, it was only worth around $500 on a good day.

This shows how subjective personal value can be, and the reality is that modern clocks, like many Ridgeway or Howard Miller models, often do not hold their original value. What you believe holds significant value may not align with what potential buyers are willing to pay.

Even an appraised value is just an educated opinion, reflecting current market conditions, the clock’s condition, and its collectibility. As market trends shift, the value of a clock can change significantly.

Factors in Assessing Clock Value

Is It Original?
Originality significantly impacts value. Clocks with replaced or missing parts tend to lose their appeal to collectors. Many “Vienna Regulators” found online, for example, are hybrids of mismatched cases and movements. In some instances, parts are missing altogether.

Clocks marketed as “complete and original” by sellers who admit they know little about clocks should be approached with extreme caution. Always verify the clock’s parts with an expert or a reputable auction house to ensure accuracy.

What Type or Style Is It?
The style or type of clock affects value. While common American mantel clocks may be worth little due to their mass production, specific models like the E.N. Welch “Patti” line or Seth Thomas Sonora clocks command high prices.

Wall clocks, especially those from the 19th century made in limited quantities, generally hold a higher value than mantel clocks which were produced in the thousands.

Grandfather clocks, also known as hall clocks, longcase, or tallcase clocks, can often be acquired for a fraction of their value, despite many that are 150+ years old. Tall clocks are bulky, requiring significant floor space. Many people don’t have the room or the inclination to accommodate such large items, especially in smaller or more modern living spaces.

A Label, Trademark, or Prominent Name adds Value
An intact label, trademark, or known maker adds value. A clock with a visible maker’s mark, such as an E. Howard or an original Willard banjo clock, is often sought after due to their craftsmanship and brand recognition.

A label, trademark, or maker’s mark verifies the clock’s authenticity, confirming that it is an original piece from a recognized manufacturer. This eliminates doubts about whether the clock is a reproduction or a mix of parts, which increases its value to collectors.

Canadian Time label — _{Pequegnat Canadian Time clock label}

A visible maker’s mark or label helps establish the clock’s provenance, providing important information about its origin, manufacturer, and production period. Clocks with clear histories, especially from reputable makers, are more desirable because they can be accurately placed within historical or stylistic contexts.

A clock’s history can boost its value. A story or historical significance attached to a clock, or a clock with a clear and documented background may attract more buyers and command a higher price.

Reproduction labels or unmarked movements raise red flags for serious collectors.

The Correct Period or a Reproduction?
Period authenticity is key. Many reproduction clocks closely resemble originals from the early 1900s but have far less value. For example, Seth Thomas reissued its famous Regulator #2 in the 1970s, but collectors prefer the originals from the late 1800s, which have clearer distinguishing features.

Reproduction clocks are often made with modern manufacturing techniques and less expensive materials, resulting in a lower quality product compared to hand-crafted originals. Collectors and buyers appreciate the craftsmanship of original clocks, which were made with more attention to detail and durability.

_{Some sellers would pass off this 1970s Jauch clock as an antique}

Original clocks from the early 1900s carry historical value due to their connection to a specific time period, reflecting the craftsmanship, design, and technology of that era. Reproduction clocks, even if they mimic the look of the originals, lack this historical significance, making them less valuable to collectors.

Novice collectors are often tempted by reproductions (particularly if the clock is passed off as original), and if they’re uncertain, they should consult a professional for guidance.

Age and Condition
A clock’s condition is crucial to its value. Clocks with missing pieces, broken hands, or poorly repainted dials are worth much less, even if they are from reputable makers. Age alone does not guarantee value—certain styles or makers, despite being centuries old, may not be popular among collectors.

Some buyers are specifically looking for clocks in original, unrestored condition, even with signs of wear. Restoration can eliminate the clock’s patina, which is often considered part of its historical appeal.

A well-functioning clock is more appealing to buyers. Properly repairing the movement restores its functionality, often increasing its resale value, as people are naturally drawn to a working clock.

In some cases, restoring a clock too thoroughly—by polishing, repainting, or replacing parts—can strip away its historical character. Over-restored clocks may look “too new,” which can detract from their antique charm and value.

Arthur Pequegnat fantop — _{Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf fantop restored case}

The cost of repairing or refinishing a clock may outweigh the potential increase in resale value. If the clock isn’t particularly rare or valuable, to begin with, investing heavily in restoration may not yield a return in the marketplace. Sellers often do not service their clocks, either because they lack the necessary skills or because the cost of repair doesn’t justify the potential profit.

Is the Clock Collectible?
Desirability can be influenced by rarity and regional interest. For instance, Arthur Pequegnat clocks are highly sought after in Canada but may fetch lower prices outside the country. True Vienna Regulators from the early 19th century are another example of rare clocks that remain valuable, especially when they are original and authentic.

The Mechanism Type
The complexity of a clock’s mechanism can impact its value. Clocks with a three-train mechanism (time, strike, and chime) tend to be more valuable than simpler two-train or one-train models.

Clocks with more complex mechanisms, such as those with three-train movements, demonstrate a higher level of craftsmanship. These mechanisms control multiple functions, like chiming, striking, and keeping time, requiring greater precision and skill in their design and assembly. As a result, clocks with such elaborate mechanisms are often considered superior and more desirable, elevating their market value.

More complex mechanisms, like three-weight Vienna Regulator Grande Sonnerie clocks, are generally rarer than their single- or two-train counterparts. The production of these complex movements required more skill and was often reserved for higher-end models or special commissions, making them less common and more sought after by collectors. Their scarcity in the market can drive up their value, especially when the clock is in good working condition with original parts.

Collectors often prioritize clocks with intricate mechanisms because they showcase the ingenuity and technological advancements of their time. The presence of a three-train mechanism, or a clock with additional complications like chiming or an alarm, indicates a higher level of mechanical achievement. These clocks are often seen as more valuable historical artifacts, and their complexity can make them the centerpiece of a collection.

On the flip side, clocks with more complex mechanisms can be harder and more expensive to repair or maintain, which may deter some buyers. A three-train movement has more moving parts that could potentially break down or require servicing, and specialized knowledge is often needed to repair them. However, collectors willing to invest in these repairs typically appreciate the value of the clock and understand that the effort is worth it.

Do Your Research and Meet the Seller In Person!

Before buying or selling a clock, check eBay listings, reputable auction houses, local buy-and-sell sites, antique shops, and online message boards. Prices can be volatile, and what may have sold for a high price years ago may be worth much less today. For example, some clocks that were once highly valued, are now relatively inexpensive due to oversupply.

Rural Nova Scotia antique shop — _{Antique shops are potential places for a good buy}

As a buyer, ask detailed questions and verify originality before making a purchase. Sellers should provide an honest and clear description of their clock, disclosing any replaced parts or modifications. Keep in mind that while the clock market may seem chaotic, high-end, sought-after clocks tend to retain their value over time.

Meeting the seller face to face is often the best approach. A personal meeting allows buyers to gauge the seller’s honesty and integrity, making them feel more secure in their purchase.

Seeing the clock in person allows the buyer to closely inspect its condition, functionality, and any potential issues that may not be apparent in photos. This firsthand assessment helps buyers make informed decisions about the clock’s value and condition. They can check for labels, trademarks, and other identifying features that may influence the clock’s value. Buyers can also evaluate the quality of craftsmanship and materials up close.

Face-to-face meetings provide a better opportunity for negotiation. Buyers can engage in real-time discussions, express their concerns, and potentially negotiate a fair price based on the clock’s condition and market value. In-person interactions often lead to more flexible negotiations than online communications.

Sellers who are passionate about their clocks can provide detailed information about the piece’s history, repairs, and provenance often enhancing the buying experience and adding value to the transaction.

Photos can be misleading, and details may be overlooked in written descriptions. Meeting the seller face to face reduces the risk of misrepresentation, as buyers can directly address any discrepancies they find during their inspection.

Meeting in person can eliminate the need for shipping, which can be costly and risky for fragile antique clocks. Buyers can transport the clock themselves, ensuring it arrives safely.

If you have any doubts or the answers you’re receiving from the seller seem uncertain, always—without exception—be prepared to walk away.

Now is a good time to buy or sell

Now is an excellent time to buy, as many bargains can be found with careful research. For sellers, patience and realistic expectations are key. Understanding the market, setting fair prices, and presenting items attractively will increase your chances of success. Whether buying or selling, doing your homework is essential to navigating this unpredictable landscape.

October 18, 2024

My Seth Thomas Regulator #2 Clock five years later

In 2018, while exploring Ontario (Canada), I came across a Seth Thomas Regulator #2 in an antique shop in Bloomfield, just a short drive from Picton, a prominent center in Prince Edward County known for its numerous wineries.

I had my eye on this clock when I viewed it online over the summer and carefully contemplated the purchase before finally acquiring it in the fall of 2018. These clocks are somewhat rare to find, but the price was reasonable, and the clock itself was in very good condition.

The Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was recognizable at one time as one of the most commonly seen regulator clocks in America. It graced many railway stations across both the US and Canada throughout the last century, a testament to its accuracy and reliability. It is a sturdy, precise, well-crafted timepiece that Seth Thomas produced from 1860 to 1950, an impressive 90-year production run. Few clocks can boast such longevity, making it an iconic American clock that every serious clock collector desires.

The design of the #2 remained largely unchanged over the years, but certain design characteristics can help in dating a specific clock. The identification guide below outlines characteristics of the dial and case that assist in estimating the year of manufacture. A clock colleague cautioned me against placing excessive trust in the chart, but I am satisfied with using rough estimates.

With the exception of its distinctive base, most #2s produced after the earliest versions had the pendulum mounted in the rear. The chart also mentions a limited reissue in 1976. While the reissue is well-crafted and aesthetically pleasing, most Seth Thomas enthusiasts would argue that it doesn’t quite compare to an authentic Regulator #2, and the prices for these versions reflect that sentiment. Nevertheless, those who own the reissue appear to be satisfied with their acquisition.

According to the chart, my clock was likely made between 1922 and 1929. It features a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2, Arabic numerals, and spade hands. The bow tie connecting the wood dial bezel and the drop is a single piece (earlier versions had a three-piece bow tie). The clock has a second hand positioned 2 inches above the center cannon, but it’s not a true second hand; it runs off the escapement, taking 80 beats to complete a “minute.” Standing at 36 ½ inches tall, it’s veneered in mahogany.

The bottom right of the movement bears the stamp “77A” with the letter “K” beneath it, although it lacks other distinctive markings. Unlike some versions of the 77 movement that have lantern pinions, this one has cut pinions. Whether one type of pinion is better than the other is open to debate.

As with any item nearly 100 years old, there were some issues with the clock. There is minor scuffing on the dial, no label, a finish that has lost its luster, and paint splatter on the top of the case (though not visible from most any angle). Taking down a clock while painting a room is a simple decision in my view, but some individuals prefer painting around it.

I transported this clock from Ontario to Nova Scotia by car, and removing the pendulum for transportation is not a straightforward process. If you are familiar with the pendulum arrangement on a typical weight-driven Vienna Regulator clock, this one is similar. Removing the weight is as simple as unhooking it from the cable wheel. Like Viennas, the pendulum is hung behind the movement, and both the weight and movement must be removed to access the pendulum since the pendulum must be removed for transport.

The steps to remove the pendulum are as follows. First, the clock hands are removed. The minute hand is secured with a nut, which must be released. The second hand is a friction fit and can be pulled straight off.

There are eight small screws holding the dial in place. Once the dial is off, two larger screws on the wooden second-hand rail can be removed to access the movement. Four cylindrical column posts secure the movement in place; unscrewing them, starting with the bottom two, allows the movement to be lifted/pulled out. Once the movement is out, the pendulum can be unhooked from its suspension spring. The entire process takes less than five minutes.

The trapezoid 77A movement in this clock appeared clean when I first opened the case. There were signs of previous work, such as punch marks around some pivot holes, a common practice frowned upon today. The deadbeat escapement was in good condition and did not require adjustment. Otherwise, the movement looked to be in very good condition.

Getting the clock to run reliably presented a challenge, and it took about a week to troubleshoot and resolve the issue. It eventually became clear that the issue lay in the positioning of the hands with the second hand obstructing the hour hand. I remounted the dial ensuring there was sufficient clearance between the second hand and the hour hand and it ran smoothly thereafter.

Regulating the clock is a relatively straightforward process, achieved by adjusting the rating nut on the bottom of the pendulum. This clock must be level and properly aligned to function correctly.

Time for servicing

In the spring of 2021, the clock began to stop intermittently. It would operate for 5-10 minutes before coming to a halt. I had replaced the suspension spring two weeks earlier and thought I had addressed the issue but clearly, I had not.

The clock’s apparent simplicity masks the tight tolerances it requires, and any signs of wear have the potential to cause the clock to cease functioning. Despite being a time-only movement with few gears I do not believe this is a good movement for the novice clock repairer.

I installed three bushings on the back plate; the second, and third wheels, and the escape wheel, and two on the front; third wheel, the escape wheel, and the verge pivot hole front plate.

At the time I also discovered a slightly bent third-wheel arbour that did not take much effort to straighten.

While the movement was out of the case I replaced the maintaining power spring. I’m unsure if I’ve resolved the clunking sound the clock produced when I wound it previously because I now must turn the key crank in the opposite direction for a quarter turn to adjust the maintaining spring to avoid the clunk.

I also replaced the old cable with a 3/64-inch brass-weight cable. One aspect of the brass cable that I particularly appreciate is its nylon core, which prevents it from coiling. Polishing the pendulum bob and weight enhanced its overall appearance.

Since 2021 it has been running very well and keeping accurate time.

While these clocks were constructed robustly and designed for demanding environments, running for extended periods without the need for maintenance, there is still a requirement for periodic servicing. When I obtained the clock, it quite likely had gone without servicing for a considerable duration, and the maintenance performed in 2021 was certainly long overdue.

Still, I am happy with the purchase of this clock. At present, it adorns the front hallway of our home, adding a touch of elegance to the entrance.

This clock is a splendid addition to our home’s front entrance, with a rich and storied history. While its exact whereabouts over the past 100 years remains a mystery, it remains a remarkable clock.

October 3, 2023

Pendulum clocks and Temperature compensation

In this post I will acquaint the reader with temperature compensation and what it means for maintaining the accuracy of a mechanical clock.

Almost all materials expand noticeably with heat and contract when cooled.

Temperature compensation is a critical factor to consider when it comes to the maintenance and repair of antique mechanical clocks. Clocks are precision instruments that rely on a delicate balance of mechanical components to keep accurate time. Any changes in temperature can cause the metal components of the clock to expand or contract, leading to inaccuracies in timekeeping.

To combat these fluctuations, many antique clocks were designed with temperature compensation mechanisms. These mechanisms are intended to counteract the effects of temperature changes on the clock’s accuracy. One common method of temperature compensation is the use of a bi-metallic strip, which is a strip of two different metals that are bonded together. As the temperature changes, the metals expand and contract at different rates, causing the strip to bend and adjust the balance of the clock.

Wood was a commonly used material for antique clock pendulum rods because it has a low coefficient of thermal expansion, meaning it is less likely to expand or contract with changes in temperature, which is crucial for maintaining the accuracy of timekeeping in clocks. Wood is relatively lightweight and easy to work with, making it a practical choice for clockmakers.

However, not all antique clocks were designed with temperature compensation mechanisms.

_{Clocks that have no temperature compensation may need seasonal adjustments}

For those that lack these features, it’s important to keep the clock in a stable environment with minimal temperature fluctuations. However seasonal changes in heat and humidity may require periodic adjustments. Exposure to extreme temperatures or rapid changes in temperature can cause damage to the clock’s components and negatively impact its accuracy.

_{Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator with wood pendulum}

Temperature compensation is a critical factor to consider when it comes to antique mechanical clocks. While some clocks were designed with built-in temperature compensation mechanisms, others may require more careful maintenance and storage to ensure accurate timekeeping over time.

Having said the above not every pendulum design that appears to provide temperature compensation actually serves that purpose. In certain instances, pendulum rod designs may be purely decorative (such as the Mauthe wall clock below) and lack temperature compensation functionality altogether.

If your clock is experiencing inaccuracies in timekeeping, there are various adjustments that can be made. However, if you lack the necessary expertise, it is advisable to consult a professional clock repairer. They can thoroughly examine the clock’s mechanisms, identify any problems, and make the necessary adjustments to ensure precise and accurate timekeeping.

June 20, 2023

Understanding the Function and Importance of Beat Scales in Clocks

If you’ve ever examined a pendulum-driven wall clock, you might have noticed a small plaque affixed to the back panel just below the pendulum. This plaque is commonly known as a beat plaque or beat scale indicator. Although the presence of a beat scale on a clock does not always indicate its value, it does perform a significant role.

Most beat scales have I and II markers on either side and when the pendulum swings, it should swing beyond the indicator I marker and close to the II.

The amplitude of the pendulum swing can reveal the health of the clock’s movement.

If there is very little amplitude in the pendulum’s swing, it could indicate wear or issues with the movement. In such cases, it may be necessary to investigate the movement, make pallet adjustments, or mitigate any wear issues.

When the pendulum swing is too large or excessive, it may indicate an issue with the clock’s movement. Swinging too far beyond the II marker on the beat scale could suggest that the clock’s mechanism has a problem, which could include a loose pallet or an escapement that has worn out. In this case, it may be necessary to make adjustments or repairs to the clock’s mechanism to address this issue.

Ideally, the pendulum of the clock should align with the center of the beat scale when the pendulum is stopped. It may not align correctly because of several reasons, such as wear and tear in the clock’s movement, changes in the environment that affect the clock’s components, improper installation, or adjustments made to the clock’s pendulum or beat scale.

If the beat scale appears off-center when the clock is stopped, it may also indicate that the clock is not squared correctly on the wall.

_{Arthur Pequegnat Moncton 15 day wall clock}

The presence of a beat scale does not necessarily imply that a clock is of high quality. Certain high-quality clocks were produced without a beat scale, while others were designed with a beat scale as a guide or an ornamental feature. In some cases, beat scales may have been added to clocks after their manufacture for decorative purposes.

If a clock has a beat scale, it assumes several conditions.

These include;

the assumption that the beat scale is original to the clock and was applied dead center,
that the scale has never been removed,
that the clock’s case has not undergone any environmental changes such as warping or high humidity,
that the pendulum rod and bob have not experienced similar environmental changes.
and that the clock’s movement, pendulum, and bob have not required any repairs or maintenance that could adversely affect the dead center between the beat scale and the pendulum.

The beat scale was originally designed and manufactured as a high-tech object and while they do serve a practical purpose in some clocks in many cases beat scales are purely decorative.

However, as noted above, the presence of a beat scale alone is not necessarily indicative of a clock’s value or quality.

May 2, 2023

The time-only clock – simplicity without the noise

People often tell me that they could never have an old-fashioned antique clock in their home because of the noise. And by noise, they are not so much disturbed by the ticking sound as they are about the sound a clock makes on the quarter, half, or on the hour, in other words, a striking or a chiming clock.

But, the ticking sound might also be bothersome. Some of my clocks are loud tickers, they can easily be heard in the next room. Some, on the other hand, are silent tickers, and the only way to determine if they are running is to approach them or observe the movement of the minute hand.

I completed work on a German Jauch time-only clock the other day and could not believe how quiet it was. This is not an expensive clock by any means. So cheap in fact that I only paid $1.65 for it, but that’s another story. It is not rare either, thousands were made but it was engineered to be very quiet.

Of the 90+ clocks I have in my collection, 20 are time-only, that is they are not striking or chiming clocks, they simply tell the time. And it is their simplicity that intrigues me. Many are wall clocks, a couple are calendar clocks, most are antiques and some are vintage. Clocks in and around bedrooms are time-only and all 4 kitchen clocks are time-only as well.

_{Three clocks located in our kitchen that are set to 3 time zones}

Here are eight of my time-only clocks (starting with the Jauch above) and a story behind each one.

This is probably one of the more expensive wall clocks in my collection. It is an unnamed Vienna-style regulator.

It is in its original finish. The finials on top might have been added but it is difficult to tell. Otherwise, the clock is complete. It was found on a local online for-sale site and the seller did not budge much from his asking price but it is one of my favorite clocks. Sadly, I do not know anything about its history.

I picked up this clock while on vacation in the USA. It was found in an antique mall in Michigan. A very simple clock, cheap and it runs very well though because it is spring driven it is not one of my better timekeepers. The ticking is just soft enough to be soothing which is why it is the only clock running in our bedroom.

_{Federal-style banjo clock, possibly John Sawin CA.1840}

This Federal-style weight-driven banjo clock was discovered at a yard sale near my home. The seller was trying to steer me toward a 30-hour clock for an outrageous price that I knew was worthless but they obviously did not know the value of this Federal-style banjo clock so I bought it instead for a ridiculously low price.

It was a family clock held by a collector in Wolfville, Nova Scotia (Canada) for a number of years until he passed away. It is a weight-driven clock, very accurate, very well constructed, and very well preserved. The dial glass was broken and other than that, it came as you see it in the photo.

This 8-day time-only clock came from a business establishment in Toronto, Ontario (Canada). It was well cared for, serviced regularly, and very accurate. The Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was also a popular choice for train stations across North America.

_{Arthur Pequegnat Moncton; 15-day clock CA.1930}

This mahogany-cased gem is an Arthur Pegugant Moncton 15-day double spring time-only clock that was a popular choice for business establishments. It is also from the Toronto area.

_{Gilbert Admiral with calendar CA.1895}

Found in a local antique shop locally this Gilbert Admiral calendar clock looks great on any wall. Unfortunately, I know nothing about it. It could have been either an office or a schoolhouse clock.

Highly sought after this Kienzle World Time clock commands high prices on auction sites. This example is in pristine condition and runs but has not been serviced. It was found in an antique shop in Kazabaszua, Quebec. The clock was designed by Heinrich Möller, chief designer for Kienzle Clock Co. of Germany, and it was considered a higher-end big desk office clock that displays world time zones. I can only imagine an important import-export dealer with this on their desk barking orders to send things here and there.

From a repairer’s point of view, time-only clocks are the simplest clocks to work on since there is not much to them. There is only one train and any repairs are straightforward and far less complicated than clocks with two or three trains. On the whole, they are more accurate, particularly weight-driven varieties because they lack the complexity of all those additional wheels and levers which only serve to add friction to any movement. Perhaps its simplicity is its greatest attraction.

My advice. If you are looking for an antique clock and plan to run it but might be bothered by the noise, consider a time-only clock. You will thank me.

Simplicity without the noise.

November 18, 2022

Do I really need a clock timer?

I have had my eye a clock timing machine for a while but I was recently encouraged to accelerate my plan to buy one. My Timetrax model 50 beat amplifier stopped running for some reason. Okay, I dropped it and it made a strange rattling noise when I picked it up. Now it doesn’t work!

_{Model 50 beat amplifier}, _{now broken}

Do I need a timer? Up to now, I got along fine without it and generally speaking anyone repairing clocks can certainly get by without one. But I can now see that this little device can be quite practical and can save a lot of time and frustration.

What does it do?

It is a Timetrax model 185 made by Adams Brown. It works by analyzing the mechanical vibration of a clock and converting the vibration or tick and tock to an electrical signal that is amplified within the timer producing a readout that is compared to an included clock train table.

It also has a beat amplifier and a balance control that will help determine the beat of a clock. It will certainly ease the process of regulating a clock, detect potential problem areas and perhaps eliminate or certainly reduce the lengthy time it takes to adjust a clock beyond a trial and error approach. I will learn more as I explore its many features.

It runs on batteries and unfortunately there is no way of hooking it up to an external power source. Don’t we have enough things that run on batteries in our homes!

I connected it to my Seth Thomas regulator #2, which is weight driven.

I checked the beat. It is roughly set by ear at first and fine-tuned by the machine. A clock is in beat when the time between ticks is even.

Switch the controller to BAL or “balance” to put the clock in beat.

The screen then displays a magnitude of numbers. I am over simplifying things a bit but a new number positive or negative is displayed as the movement ticks and a clock is in beat when the magnitude of numbers is minimized. The ideal reading is a succession of zeros which is almost impossible but the closer one gets to the zeros the better and the clock is now in beat or as close as possible to being in beat. Values under 20 are the goal.

Now for the beat timing. A Seth Thomas #2 runs at 80 beats per minute. So, 80bpm X 60 is 4800 beats per hour. The escape wheel has 40 teeth, so in this case the best numbers for a preset average is 80 (a doubling) and by clicking the beat cycle plus-minus button one arrives at the required number. The result for the ST2 was 4798 beats per hour. I am losing 2 beat per hour and compounded over one week it means a loss of mere seconds per week which in my view is very acceptable for a mechanical clock. It is not surprising that these clocks were originally designed for train stations.

I am sure I will discover other uses for this machine but for the moment I am pleased with its capabilities.

May 10, 2022

If it says Regulator on your clock it is likely NOT a Regulator?

A century ago, clock manufacturers understood the power of marketing, and the word “Regulator” became a key tool in their strategy to boost sales. By simply labeling a clock with “Regulator,” they could make it appear more precise and desirable, even if it wasn’t a true regulator. But did this marketing gimmick work? Let’s take a closer look.

By definition, a regulator clock was, and still is, a clock used as a standard for setting other clocks. Regulators were commonly found in businesses, railroad stations, public buildings, even churches and tower clocks, where townsfolk would adjust their personal clocks based on a clock that was trusted to be accurate. Early regulator clocks played an essential role in keeping communities synchronized in their daily routines.

Take, for example, the Gilbert calendar clock shown below. Advertised as a “Regulator,” it does not fit the true definition. With a spring-driven, time-only movement, it is accurate to within a minute or two per week, which is typical for spring-powered clocks. While the calendar feature is useful and the clock is attractive, it lacks the precision of a true regulator and would not be relied upon for setting other clocks. Still, it had the appearance of an accurate clock.

_{This Gilbert calendar clock is not a Regulator}

Are there exceptions to this rule? As always, there are exceptions. The Welch Spring and Company produced a clock from 1874 to the mid-1880s certified for use in train stations. This double-weight, time-only clock, reminiscent of the well-regarded Seth Thomas Regulator #2, was stenciled with “Regulator” on its access door.

Given its constant weight-driven power and deadbeat escapement, it was likely a very accurate timekeeper and well-suited to any environment where accuracy was critical, such as a train station, business office, or public square.

_{Double-weight time-only Welch clock} _{– is it a regulator?}

This particular Welch clock, now a museum piece at the American Watch and Clock Museum in Bristol, Connecticut, has been meticulously restored. When it was received, the lower tablet was missing, leading to questions about whether it originally came with the word “Regulator” on the access door. The answer is yes, some did, and some didn’t—there was a tick box on the order form for this feature.

So, while the use of “Regulator” on a clock often served as a marketing tactic to imply precision, there are instances where it genuinely signified accuracy. As a general rule, though, it’s safe to assume that many clocks labeled “Regulator” were more about selling an image than offering precise timekeeping.

In the world of clocks, the term “Regulator” was often used as a clever marketing strategy to sell more timepieces by suggesting greater accuracy. While some clocks with this label were indeed precise, many were simply designed to look the part.

As a buyer, it’s important to look beyond the label and evaluate the clock’s true functionality and history before assuming it lives up to its name.

The Arthur Pequegnat Regulator No. 1: A Canadian Collector’s Dream

My Seth Thomas Regulator #2 Clock five years later

The Quirky Charm of a Vienna Regulator Clock

Vienna Regulator – the pinnacle of clock artistry

January 26, 2022

Servicing clocks and dealing with clock suppliers

I want to share my experiences dealing with clock suppliers and let me begin by saying that my experiences have been largely positive.

I have been repairing and restoring clocks for the past 10 years and since I live in Canada I generally deal with one mechanical clock parts supplier out of Toronto, Ontario, Perrin. They are excellent for most of my needs, but they do not have everything and from time to time I must locate special or unique parts through other suppliers such as Merritts, Timesavers, and Ronell from the USA and Meadows and Passmore in England.

For example, I recently completed the restoration of an Ingraham Grecian shelf clock, circa 1871, and it required a new set of hands. The hour hand that came with the clock was too short and the minute hand was the incorrect style. My goal in this case is a clock that is as authentic looking as possible and incorrect hands always takes away from a clocks appearance.

My Canadian supplier did not have the correct hands and eventually my search brought me to an out-of-country supplier, Timesavers.

Ingraham Grecian Harris and Sons auction photo

Ingraham Grecian with correct sized moon hands

Had I ordered just a set of hands the shipping cost would have been substantial.

In order to justify the purchase I added additional parts; 2 smoothing broaches, a Seth Thomas #2 maintaining spring, brass weight cable, a riffler set, and a bob wire set. The total came to $36US. The shipping and processing fee is $24US. Factoring in the rate of exchange the order cost me $82CDN.

If my Canadian supplier had everything I needed the cost would have been $20 less. It was not a significant difference in this case but it was worth it to find the correct hands.

What are the costs?

The sourcing of parts from various suppliers especially outside Canada can be expensive when administrative costs, shipping fees, exchange rates and import duty are included.

Some suppliers, however, require a minimum order. Others apply a credit card fee for international transactions, still others apply a processing fee and occasionally there is import duty. In almost every case the cost is higher and in some cases, it may not be worth it.

There are a number of choices for shipping but the cheapest method is not always “cheap”. Ground shipping in Canada is fairly inexpensive. Many out-of-country suppliers ship by air and the cost can be significantly higher.

That little $2.99 part can easily cost $20 or more after all costs.

Parts Availability

Not every supplier is going to have what you want. There are similarities from one supplier to another but there are also differences. For example, one is likely to find brass carriage clock feet from an English supplier because bracket and carriage clocks are much more common in that part of the world. English suppliers will also carry more tall case, and carriage clock parts and obviously, American suppliers will have many parts for clocks made in the USA.

The upside is that by knowing the various suppliers and their inventories I am able to satisfy most of my clock parts needs. If I only need one part I will always add additional items to justify the shipping and other costs.

My strategy for sourcing parts

If I were in the clock business and required one part, I would pass all costs on to the customer. I do not run a repair service and can afford to put a project aside if it needs parts and wait till I can justify an order.

I build a list of parts using an Excel spreadsheet, and when I feel there is enough to justify an order I pull the trigger. I can afford to wait.

As far as prices are concerned, companies such as Timesavers in the US have locked in their prices till 2022 while prices for some items at Perrin, a Canadian supplier, have increased marginally in the past year. Still, I buy Canadian when I can.

When ordering, if there is an offer of a free parts catalogue I always ask for one.

I also take advantage of every opportunity when I find pendulums, clock keys and other sundry items in flea markets and antique shops and snap them up, IF the price is less than I would buy from a supplier.

Clock parts are not cheap. If you are looking at clockmaking as a hobby factor in the cost of basic and more advanced tools but know that consumables can cost much more in the long run.

From my experience, most suppliers are excellent to deal with are and the service is speedy and professional. Just be mindful of all those other fees. It can really add up!

May 15, 2021

Seth Thomas #2 has stopped – cleaning and bushing work should put it right

Perhaps recognizable as one of the most common regulator clocks in America, the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was found in many railway stations, offices. libraries and other public places across America during the last century, a testament to its accuracy and dependability. It is a robust, accurate, well-engineered, and dependable timepiece that was made by Seth Thomas from 1860 to 1950, a run of 90 remarkable years. Few clocks can claim that kind of longevity.

It is an iconic American clock and every serious clock collector wants one.

This particular clock was made between 1922 and 1929 and has a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2. It has Arabic numbers with spade hands. The bow-tie between the wood dial bezel and the drop is one piece while earlier versions had a 3-piece “bow-tie”. It has a seconds hand 2 inches above the center cannon. However, it is not a true seconds hand and runs off the escapement taking 80 beats to complete the “minute”. All but the earliest #2s had the pendulum mounted in the rear.

It is 36 ½ inches tall and veneered in mahogany. It has 77A stamped on the bottom right of the movement with the letter “K” underneath and has a small ST stamp near the middle of the front plate. Some versions of the 77 have lantern pinions while this has cut or leaf pinions.

It has stopped – it needs a cleaning and perhaps a bushing or two

Lately, the clock has been stopping intermittently. I would nudge the clock along and it would run 5-10 minutes at a time and stop. I replaced the suspension spring and all seemed good as the clock ran for a couple of weeks. I thought I had addressed the issue but it began to stop again!

I bought the clock three years ago. It was oiled shortly after I received it but it has not been serviced and now it is telling me that servicing is long overdue.

The movement is relatively simple in that it has 4 wheels. I disassembled the movement, pegged the pivot holes, and re-assembled it. There is wear but I have seen far worse in clocks that continue to run well. However, It appears that this movement does not tolerate wear.

Very disturbing are the aggressive, deep punch marks around most of the pivot holes. Punching around pivot holes to close them might have been an acceptable practice many years ago, but not today. The repair is crude and unprofessional.

The leaf pinions are in very good condition, wheel teeth look good and the verge has minimal wear.

Servicing the movement

In total up to 6 bushings are required.

I also discovered a slightly bent third-wheel arbour that did not take much effort to straighten.

Despite its apparent simplicity the parts are made to close tolerances and any wear has the potential to stop the clock. I don’t think this is a good movement for the novice clock repairer.

I installed three bushings on the backplate; the second, third wheels, and the escape wheel, and two on the front; third wheel, the escape wheel, and the verge pivot hole front plate.

The movement is clean, shiny, and mounted in the case for testing and minus the motion works gears.

Despite the fact that I have 4 movement test stands, none are appropriate for this movement because of the iron bracket onto which the movement and pendulum are mounted. I suppose I could probably adapt something. For now, into the case it goes for testing.

After three weeks the clock is running very well.

While the movement was out of the case I replaced both the maintaining power spring and the old cable with 3/64 inch brass weight cable. The brass cable has one feature I really like, a nylon core that prevents it from coiling. I also gave the pendulum bob and weight a polishing.

Cleaning and bushing work put the clock right. After the wear issues were addressed the clock not only runs better but polishing the brass improves its appearance.

April 9, 2021

Replacing a suspension spring on a Seth Thomas #2 Regulator

It should have been an easy fix but often when working with clock movements unexpected issues occasionally crop up.

The clock was purchased in the fall of 2018. This Seth Thomas #2 Regulator has had little done to it except oiling the movement and cleaning up the case. It is one of the most accurate mechanical clocks in my collection which is no surprise since these clocks were originally designed for offices and railways.

According to an online database, the lower section of the case was redesigned in 1922. This allows me to date the clock somewhere between 1922 and 1929. 77 weight-driven movements are very common. They were made sometime after 1915 and well into the 1940s. Perhaps the letter “K” under the 77A stamp on the movement is a clue as to exactly when it was manufactured.

It has a very attractive mahogany finish and it is a real conversation piece. There are probably more oak regulators than any other type of wood, so, mahogany, although not rare, is uncommon.

The suspension spring

A suspension spring is a thin band of steel called a “spring” by horologists by which the pendulum of a clock is suspended. It separates the pendulum rod and bob from the mounting post. Its purpose is to assist in controlling the rate of the pendulum swing.

The suspension spring looked tired when I first inspected the clock in 2018 and it was time for a replacement, sourced from my go-to Canadian supplier, Perrins.

What should have taken minutes stretched to an hour or more

Removing the movement prior to replacing the spring

Removing the movement consists of first removing the hands. A screw secures the minute hand while the hour hand is a friction fit and pulls straight out. The second hand also pulls off. Eight screws hold the face in place; 6 outside the chapter ring and two on either side of the second hand. Once the face is removed there is a wood crossbar, held by two larger screws in front of and either side of the movement, that must be removed.

Then the weight, which is hooked onto the pulley, is removed. There are 4 posts on the front of the movement, inboard on the bottom and above the plate screws on the top. They do not come out entirely but once unscrewed, the movement is released from an iron mounting bracket.

Next, the pendulum/rod which is hooked onto the suspension spring on the bracket is lifted out and put aside.

bracket for Seth Thomas #2 — The movement is mounted on a heavy cast iron bracket

Replacing the suspension spring

Once the bracket was exposed I thought it would be a simple matter of swapping out the old suspension spring for the new one. If it was not original, it is, nevertheless, quite old and likely weak with age. It probably can be done in place but it is much easier simply removing the cast iron mounting bracket which is held in place by 4 wood screws.

Laying the bracket out flat simplifies pushing out the pin holding the suspension spring.

I have come to learn that replacement parts from a supplier often must be made to fit and the suspension spring I bought is no exception. Using a pair of pliers, the pin was pushed out of the block. Once out I reamed the hole so that I did not have to struggle to install it. Except that the new pin did not fit the smaller hole in the post. So, rather than use the old pin a tapered brass pin replaced it.

Re-installation and testing

The bracket is then screwed back into the case with the suspension spring in place. The pendulum attaches to the end of the horizontal pins of the suspension spring but it is important to ensure that the end of the crutch wire, which has a 90-degree bend and hangs down from the movement goes through the opening in the pendulum.

The movement, face, and hands go back onto the clock. Push the hour hand in far enough, otherwise, it will rub against the minute hand and stop the clock.

There is very little space between the hour hand and the second’s hand. This is by design, and if you do not push the second’s hand in far enough you will know soon enough when interference stops the clock.

Level the clock case on the wall and observe the action of the pendulum.

What should have taken minutes stretched to over an hour. Now that the new suspension spring is in place, I have had a chance to look over the movement and it will be scheduled for a full servicing in the next month or so.

In the meantime, the clock is running well; there is slightly more amplitude in the pendulum swing than previously and it is keeping excellent time.

March 19, 2021

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What should have taken minutes stretched to an hour or more

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