Mainsprings dilemma | To Replace or Not To Replace

As a clock repairer, there are several compelling reasons to keep the original mainsprings if they are still in good condition.

Keeping the original mainsprings ensures that the clock remains as close to its original condition as possible. Collectors and enthusiasts often value clocks with original parts, as they maintain the authenticity and historical significance of the clock.

Brass mainsprings for Manross clock — _{Older brass mainsprings are not replaceable}

Many older mainsprings were made with higher-quality steel and manufacturing techniques and modern replacements may not be of the same quality. Original springs, if well-preserved, may outperform modern equivalents in terms of durability and performance.

Consider the original design of the movement and how it is powered. The original mainspring is designed specifically for the clock’s movement, ensuring the proper balance of power delivery and running time. Replacements, even when sized correctly, may not deliver power consistently due to slight variations in material and design.

Modern mainsprings can sometimes deliver too much power, especially in delicate or vintage movements, leading to accelerated wear or damage to gears and pivots. Original springs are often “seasoned,” meaning they’ve been conditioned by years of use and may be gentler on the movement. Even replacements that have the same dimensions as the original are overpowered. Recommended replacement springs might overload the movement and lead to wear issues sooner rather than later.

Laurie Penman, who authors a regular feature in Clocks Magazine, stresses the importance of considering replacement springs in the September 2024 issue, stating “it bears repeating that if you fit a spring that approximates to the original nineteenth century the movement will be overloaded”.¹

If the original mainspring is functional, reusing it can save the cost of purchasing a replacement. In fact, finding an exact replacement for some older or rare clocks can be very challenging for the repairer.

That said, we certainly do not need to send more items to landfill sites. Reusing parts when possible reduces waste and the environmental impact of manufacturing new components.

Inspect the mainsprings during every servicing

Part of servicing a clock movement includes inspecting and cleaning the mainsprings. While open mainsprings are easier to inspect and work with, some repairers may be tempted to skip cleaning those encased in barrels. It’s important to learn how to open mainspring barrels for proper maintenance.

Over time, the mainspring(s) can accumulate old oil, dirt, rust, and debris, which can impede its smooth operation. Removing the mainspring from the barrel or open springs from a movement allows for proper cleaning and lubrication, ensuring the clock runs efficiently.

_{Open mainsprings that have been serviced}

Removing the spring also allows you to apply fresh mainspring oil evenly along the entire length of the spring. But that is not the only reason.

When Should You Replace the Mainsprings?

Removing the mainspring allows you to thoroughly inspect it for any signs of wear, fatigue, or damage that might require replacement. If the spring is in good condition but the hook end is cracked, it can be reused by cutting the spring and fashioning a new hook end. This will make the spring slightly shorter.

However, after a thorough cleaning, the movement will run more efficiently and require less power to run through its designed cycle, be it a day or a week, two weeks, and so, there may be little to no effect from a shortened mainspring. That said, the task of repairing a mainspring is best suited for an experienced clockmaker.

The most straightforward solution for the novice is simply to replace the spring.

_{Although they may appear set to some, this spring is perfectly usable}

As a clock repairer, I rarely replace a mainspring. Even if a mainspring appears “set,” it often still has functionality. The important step is to return the spring to the movement and test it to ensure it meets the required standard by completing its designed cycle. If there is a significant loss, a running time of 2-3 days for an 8-day clock, and if there are no other obvious issues the mainspring must be replaced.

For some, ensuring a clock runs while preserving its original parts might take priority, even if the original mainspring cannot power the clock through its designed cycle. It is therefore essential to balance preservation with functionality.

_{Using a spring winder while working on a spring within a barrel}

By carefully evaluating the mainspring’s condition and the specific needs of the movement, you can make an informed decision that respects both the clock’s history and its mechanical performance.

Clocks magazine, September edition ↩︎

December 3, 2024

Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik | Servicing an 8-day Countwheel Strike Movement – Part II

I am currently working on a mantel clock from the Hamburg American Clock Company. This is Part II in a two-part series. For Part I go here.

The Hamburg American Clock Company is otherwise known as Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik or HAU and in many parts of the world, it is simply known as HAC.

In Part I, I described the steps taken so far which are disassembly, inspection, cleaning of the parts, and polishing of all pivots. The next steps are bushing work, reassembly, oiling (the mainsprings were oiled in a previous step), and finally, testing.

I believe this is the No. 36 movement by HAC.

The wheels that spin the fastest typically show the most bushing wear, but wear can also appear in other areas, such as the main wheels, which endure significant torque. For instance, I observed punch marks on the cap side of each mainspring barrel. While punching around any bushing hole is generally poor practice, it appears this was done at some point in the clock’s history and can’t be reversed. Nonetheless, the repair seems to have held up well.

Bushing Work

I have seen similar movements with much more wear than this one, but I felt that some bushing work was necessary to extend the clock’s lifespan.

Six Bergeon brass bushings were installed in total. For the time side (T), bushings were placed at T1 (front and back) and T3 (back). For the strike side (S), bushings were installed at S3 (back), S2 (front), and S4 (front). The numbers indicate the wheel location in the train beginning from the bottom. A couple of pivot holes were borderline, but I decided to leave them as they are.

Reassembly

It pays to be patient and methodical during reassembly. Rushing can lead to mistakes, such as missing steps or improperly aligning parts, which could cause malfunctions or even damage later. Taking the time to carefully double-check the placement of parts, and ensure everything is in its correct place will help ensure the reassembly is smooth and successful.

_{An older HAC movement, without the barrel cutouts}

Once the wheels are in place the lever and there is only one multi-arm ever that resides between the plates. Position it such that the long arm rests in one of the deep slots of the count wheel while a short arm is placed in the cut out of the cam wheel (as above).

Positioning the pivots is a delicate process, and any forceful handling can result in a bent or broken pivot. In this, as in all cases when aligning pivots, a pivot locator is your best tool.

My usual practice is to position all the wheels and the lever(s) on the plate with the movement posts, first. Once the wheels are correctly located, I lower the front plate onto the back plate. I secure two nuts to the mainspring end which prevents the movement plates from coming apart as I position the upper wheels in the train.

The pin-wheel, which is uppermost and one wheel removed from the fly on the strike side, is placed in approximately the 12 o’clock position, the warning position. At the same time the hammer paddle is positioned between two of the points on the star wheel. More than once I have had to go back in to make minor adjustments when the paddle hangs up on one of the star points. It looks like this one is also a candidate for that very adjustment.

_{A Timetrax machine is used to adjust the beat and the rate of the movement.}

The movement has been placed on a test stand and the time side Is in beat and running as it should according to my Timetrax machine. Curiously, the Timetrax manual lists only one HAU/HAC movement, a three-train one but this one is likely similar to Junghans bracket clock movements which runs at 164 bpm. Junghans is mentioned for comparison because, by 1930, the company had successfully taken full control of HAC.

Testing

The testing phase is crucial in the process of servicing a clock, often taking the most time because it ensures that the clock is functioning properly before it is reunited with its case.

During this phase, the clock is put through various operational checks to simulate real-time performance, which helps in identifying any issues that may not have been apparent during the initial servicing or cleaning process. Issues such over-tightened or loose components can present themselves as well as problems with the escapement mechanism.

The testing phase serves as an important diagnostic step to identify what further repairs or adjustments may be needed.

This concludes the servicing of an 8-day HAU/HAC movement. If you have any comments or feedback on any of the steps in the process, please feel free to share!

October 1, 2024

How to Service an Open Mainspring Without a Spring Winder – Step-by-Step Guide

In a previous article on servicing this clock, I mentioned the challenge I faced with the mainspring. With only minimal tools at my disposal and no spring winder, I was determined to find a solution and successfully service the mainspring.

This clock was manufactured by New Haven and boasts a classic design with a twelve-inch Roman Numeral dial and a distinctive short drop style.

The softwood case is veneered in Rosewood veneer accents. The clock’s case must have been quite elegant at one time, but now it is showing much wear and tear.

Given the condition of the case, I anticipated that the movement would be just as well-worn. It was in better condition than I thought.

Let me point out that the servicing is being done under less-than-ideal conditions. I am at our summer cottage with only the basic tools for clock repair, so I must either improvise or skip certain procedures.

No spring winder | no problem

The movement had already been restrained with a heavy copper wire.

_{A heavy copper wire contains the mainspring}

First, partially reassemble the movement with only the main wheel and second wheels. Reattach the front plate and secure the movement with the 4 pillar nuts.

Attaching the second wheel allows the main wheel to be stabilized while the spring is wound using the ratchet.

Safety first

I strongly recommend wearing leather work gloves and eye protection. Handling mainsprings under tension can be hazardous, so prioritizing safety is crucial. Precautions are essential to protect yourself from potential injuries.

Next steps

The key is to hold onto the second wheel while winding the clock. Once fully wound the copper restraining wire can be removed. In the photo below the screwdriver is arresting the wheel while I take the photo.

Then, using a letdown tool, release the click by popping out the click spring from the rachet and allowing the mainspring to unwind. The main wheel with the relaxed spring can now be safely removed from the movement.

Servicing involves carefully removing the main wheel from the spring, manually inspecting and cleaning the spring, re-oiling it, and reconnecting it with the main wheel.

_{The mainspring is removed from the main wheel for cleaning}

Reassembly

After cleaning the main wheel and the spring, simply reverse the procedure. Reattach the click spring, join the main wheel and the mainspring, place them back in the movement along with the second wheel, wind the spring, and secure it again with the copper restraining wire. Once this is done, you can continue to reassemble the movement.

May not be suitable for all applications

This approach allows the main wheel to be cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner along with all the other movement parts.

While this method may not be suitable for all open mainspring designs, it might be the solution for you.

Servicing a mainspring without a spring winder isn’t ideal, it can still be done safely and effectively.

Servicing this movement is reminiscent of days gone by when Dad (or Mom) would gather tools from the shed to fix the family clock. The repair might not have been perfect, but the goal was always to keep the clock running reliably until the next time it needed attention.

August 2, 2024

Assessing the level of wear on your antique clock

You might be wondering whether or not your newly acquired 100-year-old clock requires maintenance even if it seems to be running well. The traditional saying “don’t fix what isn’t broken” may not be suitable for antique clocks because even a seemingly well-functioning clock may not disclose the full extent of its wear.

_{My first antique clock, Seth Thomas Adamantine C.1900}

Many years ago mechanical clocks were quite prevalent. However, as electric clocks gained popularity in the 1930s, the mechanical clock industry began to decline. Many renowned American and Canadian clock manufacturers, such as Seth Thomas, Sessions, and Ansonia, simply disappeared by the mid-1950s.

As electric clocks replaced mechanical ones in households, old mechanical clocks became decorative pieces, were stored away in attics, barns, and basements, or found their way to second-hand shops, antique malls, and flea markets. Consequently, the state and backstory of your clock may differ considerably based on the conditions under which it was stored after it stopped running.

Appearance tells a story

The external appearance of the clock and the level of care it has received can provide insights into its usage history. A heavily worn clock case often suggests that the clock movement inside has also experienced significant wear and tear.

On the other hand, a meticulously maintained clock case may house a movement that has enjoyed a lengthy lifespan and received consistent servicing over the years.

George H. Clark 30 hour Ogee — _{Both case and movement were in very good condition, George H. Clark 30-hour Ogee}

Whether it has run a few months or several years, is difficult to determine precisely unless it has been examined carefully for wear. The answer is complex, primarily because determining the clock’s exact history and how often it has been serviced is not as straightforward as it seems. There are many variables at play and unless you are aware of the clock’s history unraveling its past by examining the extent of wear can be complex.

Inspect for wear

To assess the condition of your clock accurately, you must inspect the movement for signs of wear. Wear is a clear indicator of the clock’s condition and suggests how much time it has spent in operation without maintenance. Only by disassembling the movement can the full extent of wear be ascertained.

_{Rusted and worn movement, likely stored in a damp environment}

Signs of wear could include worn bushings, worn bushing holes, punch marks adjacent to bushing holes, bent arbours, broken or repaired teeth on clock gears, broken or tired mainsprings, cracked pinions, loose clicks, excessive oiling, traces of solder as well as missing or damaged case pieces, and worn clock faces.

Date markings on the case or the movement that have been inscribed with a sharp tool or pencil provided evidence of when the clock was serviced. Marks such as these indicate that the clock has been serviced, though not necessarily always by a skilled professional.

Buying privately provides some assurances

It is highly unlikely that an antique mall dealer would have much information on a clock’s history as such sellers typically focus on the sale of items rather than their historical backgrounds.

Private sales of antique clocks can indeed offer valuable insights into their usage and history.

In private sales, you often have the opportunity to interact directly with the clock’s current or previous owners. They can provide firsthand information about the clock’s origin, how long it has been in their possession, and any maintenance or repairs it may have undergone.

Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site — _{A well-preserved E Ingraham Huron bought from a private seller}

Antique clocks passed down through generations within a family may come with stories and documentation that shed light on their usage. Some private sales may include original documentation, such as purchase receipts, service records, or even old photographs featuring the clock. These documents can be invaluable in understanding the clock’s history.

Private buyers often have the opportunity to physically inspect the clock before purchase. This close examination can reveal wear patterns, repair marks, or other signs of usage and maintenance that might not be apparent in online listings or auctions.

Sellers of antique clocks in private sales are often enthusiasts or collectors themselves. They may possess an understanding of the clock’s history, design, and significance, which they are willing to share with prospective buyers.

_{A vintage Hermle wag on a wall clock that had been in the same family for generations}

In some cases, private sales may come with provenance—a documented history of ownership and past sales. This can provide a clear lineage of the clock and offer valuable information about its previous owners and usage.

An amateur or professional repair

It’s important to distinguish between amateur and professional repairs. Amateur repairs are often quick fixes to get the clock running again and are usually visibly apparent. In contrast, professional repairs are thorough and aimed at extending the clock’s lifespan, with minimal visible alterations.

_{An amateur repair on a time and strike movement}

In your search, you may come across clocks that have been serviced multiple times and others that have never received maintenance. Clocks in the latter category can range from heavily worn and non-functional to surprisingly well-preserved due to factors like limited use or professional servicing at regular intervals.

_{A regulating gear discovered after disassembly}

You might come across clocks with multiple services or those never serviced yet still in good condition. While your 100-year-old clock may have run continuously, it likely underwent several servicing sessions, either by skilled professionals or enthusiasts. Conversely, some clocks in excellent condition may have seen minimal use, despite never receiving maintenance.

Punch marks on a movement — _{Punch marks used to close a bushing hole, not an acceptable practice today}

While the complexity of assessing antique clocks’ wear can be daunting, it adds to the allure and fascination. Whether it has run continuously and been cared for throughout its life, or is one step closer to the garbage bin, each clock tells a unique story that adds to its charm.

September 22, 2023

Restoring Antique Clocks according to Customer wishes

While I do not operate a clock business I have, in the past, worked on other people’s clocks.

The customer’s perspective and preferences are always paramount when it comes to repairing and restoring antique clocks. As an antique clock blogger and clock repairer, I believe it is crucial to respect and understand the wishes of the clock’s owner. Each customer may have their own unique vision for their clock, and it is important to provide them with options while also offering expert advice.

When working on a customer’s clock, it is customary to present various options for repairing the movement and addressing any case issues. While some clocks may have significant provenance or historical value, necessitating minimal intervention, others may benefit from repairs and cleaning to bring out their full potential. However, it is ultimately the customer’s decision on how they want their clock to be treated.

In a recent experience, I had the opportunity to work on a clock with a non-functioning movement and a beautifully designed case. When discussing the options with the customer, they expressed a desire to prioritize making the clock run and replacing the broken hands, while leaving the case untouched. Although I believed that cleaning the case and applying a fresh coat of shellac would enhance its appearance, I respected the customer’s wishes and proceeded accordingly.

In the realm of antique clocks, the customer’s satisfaction is of utmost importance. While as a clock restorer and enthusiast, I may have my professional opinions and recommendations, it is essential to remember that the customer’s vision and preferences take precedence. By offering different choices and providing expert guidance, we can ensure that the customer’s clock not only functions well but also aligns with their aesthetic sensibilities and personal attachment to its history.

The customer’s desires should be respected when working on antique clocks. While expert advice can be offered regarding repairs and restoration, the final decision lies with the customer.

By presenting various options and considering their input, a functional clock that meets their expectations and preserves the integrity of the clock’s history and design while preserving the relationship between the repairer and the customer is the ultimate goal.

July 7, 2023

More advanced clock repair tools for the budget minded and those of you who can afford the extra cost

_Antique clocks are not only valuable as historical artifacts but also as complex machines that require precise repair and maintenance. To ensure their longevity and functionality, clock repairers need to have access to advanced tools that can help them diagnose and fix various issues. From ultrasonic cleaners to digital calipers, the modern clock repairer has an array of high-tech tools at their disposal that can make the restoration process more efficient and accurate.

In this article, we will explore some of the most advanced tools used in antique clock repair and how they are used to restore these valuable timepieces to their former glory.

Some of these tools may or may not break the bank depending on your financial situation or budget restrictions. Should you be prepared to invest heavily and cost is no object there are a number of options. For those of you who are budget minded, are looking for value, and are handy around wood-making tools, there are options for very little money.

For those specialized tools that will assist you in building and designing your own movements, such as a wheel/pinion cutter, the depthing tool, and advanced testing machines, please look elsewhere, this is not the place for you.

In my last article, I focused on what is needed for more advanced repairs but kept the budget at under 400 USD. This time the outlay grows a little but it can be controlled if you make careful decisions.

Beyond the basics – more advanced tools for clock repair

_{See this article for more advanced tools}

As in life, there are many ways of accomplishing the same task which means a number of options are available:

Purchase new tools
Substitute hand tools for machine tools
Make the tools
Buy on the used market
Improvise

For each category area, there are options for budget-minded and those with unlimited funds.

On a personal note, my first major tool was a spring winder. Next was a bushing machine followed by an ultrasonic cleaner and finally, a metal lathe. The purchases were made over the space of four years and working within a limited budget. Your mileage may vary.

Let’s get started.

Spring winder

Joe Collin’s spring winder for the budget-minded

Olie Baker spring winder

The Olie Baker spring winder is designed for hole or loop end mainsprings. It has a unique tailstock feature that safely stabilizes and secures your mainspring so it will not slip off. It also comes with nine mainspring sleeves.

It is American-made and approximately 280 USD. An extra cost Mainspring Let-down Set or a comparable tool is required to operate the Ollie Baker Winder. The KWN spring winder, which is equally capable, competes with the Olie Baker.

_{You will need a letdown for the Olie Baker spring winder}

Bushing Methods

Drill press

Bushing work can be accomplished on a drill press but a cheaper unit will have poor runout. Runout is the amount of “wobble” that is found in the drill press (the drill bit specifically) when it is rotating. A machine with a poor runout will produce a larger and more imperfect hole than the size of the drill bit used. My inexpensive Canadian Tire drill press has a visible runout and is not acceptable for bushing work. Higher-priced machines have less runout and can operate at very low speeds. A low-speed drill is optimal for bushing work.

Bushing by hand

Hand-reaming with KWM or Bergeon cutters is an art in and of itself. Hand reamers usually come as a set of 5 Reamers, 1 Chamfering Cutter, and a handle. A hand reamer set is an economical method of reaming bushing holes so that brass bushings are pushed into place once the hole is reamed out.

The Bushing machine

The KWM Bushing Tool is used with KWN bushings. Used units, which are a fraction of the cost, can only use KWN’s own bushings however, a new design makes it now possible to use all the original KWM brass brushings but also all brass and bronze bushings by Bergeon.

The Bergeon bushing machine is the second option. The Bergeon Bushing machine Includes 2 plate clamps, 10 reamers, 3 pushers, 4 drilled stakes, 1 undrilled stake, 1 centering tool, 1 chamfering cutter, 1 centering stake, and instructions and is made in Switzerland.

As far as bushing machines are concerned one is no better than the other. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. There is a legion of fans on either side.

Cutting and smoothing broaches

Cheap cutters and smoothing broaches will certainly work but it is worth spending a little money on better-quality tools.

_{Junghans front plate count wheel bushing}

Regardless of whether you subscribe to Bergeon or KWN bushings a set of bushings of various sizes is essential.

Drilling a hole with Bergeon bushing machine — _{Drilling a hole using a cutter on a Bergeon bushing machine}

Polishing pivots

Taig metal lathe

For repairing broken pivots a metal lather is essential. For polishing pivots, a lathe is very useful but not essential. The Taig metal lathe is a popular choice for hobbyists and professionals alike due to its accuracy, rigidity, and durability. With a range of attachments and accessories available, the Taig lathe is capable of tackling a variety of machining tasks with ease.

Portable drill

During the early days of clock repair, I used a portable drill to polish pivots. It is relatively cheap as one usually has a portable drill around the house. Combined with emery boards it is an effective polisher.

Clock Reference Books, how-to guides, and manuals

The essential clock repair library according to Antiquevintageclock.com

_{Go here for all the books I recommend}

It is becoming increasingly challenging to find good hard-cover clock repair books. Check out my article above for my choices for clock repair resources.

Cleaning choices

Ultrasonic cleaner

Using an ultrasonic cleaner is a highly effective way to clean small clock parts and components without causing damage or introducing harmful chemicals. The high-frequency sound waves generated by the cleaner can dislodge dirt, grime, and other contaminants from even the most hard-to-reach areas.

There are a wide variety of ultrasonic cleaners. A Chinese-made cleaner will work well (and is cost-effective) but for reliability and longevity, it is best to spend a little extra money on a quality machine.

_{Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R and Poly-Chem Deox 007 is a very effective combination}

Of course, if you prefer not to go the ultrasonic route, hand cleaning is perfectly acceptable. You will not have the shiny brand-new look that an ultrasonic cleaner will give you but in most cases the movement is hidden and aesthetics are not absolutely required.

Important extras

Comfortable chair

Using a comfortable chair for antique clock repair can help reduce fatigue and improve concentration during the restoration process. A well-designed chair can provide proper support and comfort for extended periods of work, which can be particularly beneficial for complex and time-consuming repair projects. Do not underestimate the value of a comfortable chair.

Leather gloves

Mainsprings, when they break or let go can leave ugly cuts and bruises. A good pair of leather gloves will be your best friend.

Work area

Using a dedicated work area for clock repair is essential for creating a safe, organized, and efficient workspace. Having a designated area for repair work can help prevent accidents, minimize distractions, and ensure that all tools and materials are within easy reach. It can also help maintain the integrity of the clock being worked on by minimizing the risk of damage or contamination.

I am sure I left out a few things but these are the essentials and again if your budget permits, better-quality tools will make all the difference.

In conclusion, the world of antique clock repair has come a long way in recent years with the development of advanced tools and technologies. These tools have made it possible for repairers to restore valuable timepieces with greater precision, efficiency, and accuracy.

While traditional repair methods and techniques will always have their place, the use of advanced tools has enabled repairers to tackle even the most challenging restoration projects with confidence. The use of advanced tools and techniques can help preserve these historical treasures for generations to come.

March 17, 2023

Finial replacement on a Junghans wall clock

In January 2017 I took a chance, plunked down $75 and bought a project clock which consisted of a box of clock parts.

Junghans clock in pieces (notice bottom finial)

I took it home, stared at the box for a while trying to figure out what to do and how far I would get with this project. I itemized the parts, arranging them on the case as best I could and put together a plan. At least I had something to go on when someone sent me the actual catalog image of the clock.

The clock is called the Crispi by Junghans, Ca. 1899. Junghans is a reputable German clock-maker that made all styles of clocks for over 100 years in Germany and continues in the watch business to this day.

There are subtle differences between my clock and the clock in the catalog but to the untrained eye it looks much the same.

What I did not change at the time was the bottom centre finial. Most who are familiar with clock case design would agree that the bottom centre finial is actually one of the top crown finials and was re-positioned in a previous repair. I left it as-is as I went about restoring the rest of the clock.

After completing a number of other clock projects during the Pandemic as well as addressing an errant strike issue with this clock, I decided it was time to replace the finial with something more in keeping with the original design.

Here is the clock (next photo) when I finished with the case. That bottom centre finial always bothered me but, as I said, I let it be.

This is a clock that I took to a professional clockmaker to have repaired in the days when I did not have the skills to service a clock.

It worked well for about two years or more and then the strike side became very erratic. It would either strike incorrectly on the half hour or strike until the mainspring wound down. I cannot blame the repairer as these movements can be finicky to work on but my knowledge of clock repair has improved such that I can better diagnose and repair most clock issues today.

The problem was twofold. One, the paddle was not quite in the correct position in the deep slot of the count wheel at the end of the strike and the strike paddle ended the strike sequence by hanging off one of the star points of the strike wheel.

It took several attempts through trial and error but eventually I was victorious and the movement now strikes correctly.

Crispi clock back from the horologist — Top finial placed on the bottom by a past repairer

Now, let’s get back to the case. As you can see the clock had been returned to its former glory and is quite faithful to the original except for that bottom finial.

I chose a flat back unfinished 2 1/2″ by 2 3/4″ hardwood finial that is available from most clock parts suppliers. I matched the stain to the case and applied three coats of shellac. Using a drill press I made a hole to accommodate a piece of dowel in the base and finial to secure it to the lower base section. I applied yellow carpenters glue to secure it and here is the result. The cost to rectify it was minimal.

The shape, size and style is now appropriately suited to the case.

The seller had the clock in his family for many years, perhaps as long as the clock is old. Anyway, he would not budge from the $75 but he asked me to send a photo of the clock when it was completed. I did, and received no acknowledgement. I don’t think he ever thought it would look quite like this.

August 15, 2021

Seven steps to servicing an antique or vintage clock movement

Why does a mechanical clock movement require servicing? The answer is fairly straight forward.

Keeping your clock in good running condition requires maintaining the movement’s working parts and maintaining the working parts reduces wear. Ideally, most clocks should be serviced every three to five years to maximize longevity and ensure proper functioning.

This article describes the 7 steps that I typically follow when servicing an antique or vintage clock movement. A common American 8-day time and strike, pendulum-driven movement is used as an example.

Continue reading “Seven steps to servicing an antique or vintage clock movement” →

March 1, 2020

When Should You Replace the Mainsprings?

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Bushing Work

Reassembly

Testing

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Spring winder

Bushing Methods

Polishing pivots

Clock Reference Books, how-to guides, and manuals

Cleaning choices

Important extras

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