How to Remove and Service a Mainspring Enclosed in a Clock Barrel

A clock spring barrel is a cylindrical component found in spring-driven clocks. Its primary function is to house the mainspring, which stores energy to power the clock.

The mainspring barrel works like this

The mainspring is a tightly coiled strip of metal that, when wound, stores potential energy. The barrel holds the mainspring in place and allows it to unwind in a controlled manner, releasing energy to drive the clock’s gears and ultimately the hands.

Mainspring barrel
Mainspring barrel

The arbour, a shaft running through the center of the barrel, is connected to the winding mechanism by means of a gear. One end of the arbour accommodates a key, used to wind the spring. The other end of the arbour connects to the movement plate. When wound, the arbour twists the mainspring, storing energy. As the mainspring unwinds, it turns the barrel, which transmits power to the clock’s gear train. And that’s it!

A time-only clock made by Empire with a single barrel

A typical clock may have one, two, or even three barrels.

In a clock with a single barrel, the mainspring powers only a timekeeping train. Clocks with two barrels use one to power the time train and the other for the strike train. In clocks with three barrels, each barrel powers a separate function: one for the time train, one for the strike train, and one for the chime function.

Why remove the mainspring

Part of servicing a clock movement involves checking and cleaning the mainsprings.

Over time, the mainspring(s) can accumulate old oil, dirt, and debris, which can impede its smooth operation. Removing the mainspring from the barrel allows for proper cleaning and lubrication, ensuring the clock runs efficiently.

Removing the spring allows you to apply fresh mainspring oil evenly along the entire length of the spring. But that is not the only reason.

Mainsprings can weaken, crack, or break after years of use.

Removing the mainspring from the barrel allows you to thoroughly inspect it for any signs of wear, fatigue, or damage that might require replacement. If the spring is in good condition but the hook end is cracked, it can be reused by cutting the spring and fashioning a new hook end. However, this will make the spring slightly shorter. This task is best suited for an experienced clockmaker. That said, the most straightforward solution is to simply replace the spring.

If the mainspring is no longer functioning properly (e.g., losing power too quickly, damaged, or completely broken), it must be removed and replaced.

Broken mainspring for barrel
Broken mainspring

Regular maintenance, including removing the mainspring when necessary, helps prolong the life of the clock and ensures reliable running.

Remove the barrel from the clock movement:

Complete disassembly of the movement is necessary before working on the mainspring barrels. However, it’s worth noting that some German clocks are designed to allow the barrel to be removed without fully disassembling the entire movement, provided that only a broken mainspring needs to be replaced/repaired.

Ensure the mainspring is fully unwound before proceeding. If it is still wound, use a let-down tool to gradually release the tension.

The letdown key
The letdown key

The barrel consists of a cylindrical case and a cap. The cap is press-fitted in place and must be removed.

Hold the barrel in a gloved hand with the cap facing your palm (and the arbour between fingers), then give it a quick tap against a block of wood. The shoulder on the arbour inside the cap is enough to be able to supply even pressure to the centre of the cap and pop it off. This method ensures that there is no damage, and no scratches, plus it’s very simple to do.

Exercise caution to prevent bending or damaging the barrel. Although a screwdriver can be used to pry open the barrel, the risk of bending the cap or causing unsightly scratches is too great.

A mainspring winder

Attach the mainspring to a mainspring winder by securing the inner end of the mainspring to the winding arbor of the tool.

Mauthe Horse Crown spring barrel in Olie Baker spring winder
Mainspring barrel in Olie Baker spring winder, collar readied for the spring

Wind the mainspring slightly to loosen it from the barrel walls. Insert an appropriately sized mainspring collar and slowly unwind the mainspring into the collar and then gently remove it from the barrel.

Use thick leather gloves to handle the mainspring

Wind the spring again to remove it from the collar and then relax the spring for servicing.

The mainspring is inspected for damage, dirt, or rust. I use a Scotch-Brite scouring pad to clean the mainspring of dirt and debris. After cleaning, I wipe the spring with a soft cloth to remove any residue, and then lubricate it with Keystone mainspring oil.

After servicing, it is time to reinsert the mainspring into the barrel. Wind the mainspring tightly, place the collar back on, and secure the spring within it. Insert the collared spring into the barrel, ensuring the hook end catches on the notch inside. Finally, remove the collar and carefully unwind the spring into the barrel.

Using a mainspring winder such as one made by Olie Baker is the safest and easiest method for removing and re-installing the spring, as it ensures controlled release.

A mainspring can be removed manually, and there are plenty of YouTube videos available that demonstrate how to do it “properly.”

In Summary

It’s important to mention that there are specific barrel issues, such as broken catches or bulging barrels, which fall outside the scope of this article.

The mainspring barrel houses the mainspring and enables controlled energy release to drive the clock’s gears and hands. Proper maintenance of the mainspring, including its removal for cleaning and inspection, is essential to prolong the clock’s life. Regular servicing, including checking for wear and replacing damaged mainsprings, helps maintain the clock’s performance and longevity.

Ansonia Crystal Regulator clock – Part I – disassembly

This is Part I of a three (3) part series. In Part I I discuss disassembly and servicing the mainsprings. In Part II, the movement and in Part II restoring the brass case.

My wife found this 1910 Ansonia Crystal Regulator in the late summer 2018 while antique shopping. In the 1905 Ansonia Crystal Regulator catalogue it is listed as the Prism at a price of $29.00 which would have been a hefty sum at that time. (Flash is required to open the catalogue)

What a great choice! We were in a hurry and should have asked the proprietor to show us that it worked. We returned home and to our dismay, it was not running. As I said in an article published in Dec 2018:

A gentle push of the pendulum produces a few ticks and then it stops. I am not familiar with Brocot escapements and before I do anything I will research the movement before I disassemble it and give it a thorough cleaning.

Brocot visible escapement; in this photo, the brass is very tarnished

Just days old but I thought I would polish the brass

This is a truly beautiful clock with a visible escapement. What I have learned is this; don’t mess with a Brocot escapement. The stone pallets, which are made of garnet are very delicate and breaking one or both is a huge issue. The pallets are held together by melted shellac and cleaning them in an ultrasonic will loosen them as they are position sensitive.

It is now April (2019) and I have put this project off long enough. So let’s begin.

This not a particularly easy clock to work on. The pivots are smaller than a typical American time and strike movement which means closer tolerances. The strike side is rack and snail, that is, there are no helper springs and only one combination lever between the plates. Most strike parts are located outside the plates and the final assembly for the Brocot escapement also occurs outside the plates. There are two wheels with stop pins for the strike side. Setting them up can be a challenge.

Dissembling the case

To disassemble the case I wrapped two strips of painters tape on all four sides. Doing so prevents the glass from falling out. Beveled glass panels are difficult to replace and exercising care when working with the case will prevent accidents. Each glass panel can be as much as $75 by the time shipping is included and turnaround time can be as much as 2 months.

The first to come out is the gong assembly. One large nut secures the gong to the case and is accessible from underneath the base.

I chose to disassemble the entire case though it is possible to remove the movement without doing do. There are three screws at the 1-2, 10-11 and 6 o’clock positions though a long skinning screwdriver is required to get at them.

There are 4 large screws on the bottom and 4 on top. Unscrew the bottom 4 screws first. Once the base is off you will quickly realize the importance of the painter’s tape. To access the top screws there is one small screw underneath the top plate that must be released to access the 4 top corner screws. Patience is key if you work slowly the chance of error is reduced. Put the brass pieces and the glass panels in a safe place while working on the movement.

Mainsprings

The mainsprings are in barrels. The barrels are secured to the movement plates with 4 screws. The great wheel and the arbour are one piece. With a twist, the arbour can be removed from the mainspring.

There are three ways to service the mainsprings.

1) Find a temporary winding arbor and use it to unwind the mainspring on a spring winder.

2) Hold the barrel in one hand and pull the spring out with the other being careful not to kink or bend the spring. Once the spring is released from the barrel, unhook it and you are free to clean the spring. To put it back together, use a thick leather glove to hold the barrel, hook the hole end, and carefully rewind the spring back into the barrel.

3) Partially disassemble the great wheel and use the arbour without the gear in place. Special tools are required to separate the arbour from the wheel.

Olie Baker spring winder
Olie Baker spring winder

Front of movement showing visible escapement

Back of movement showing rack and snail, hammer and rate adjuster

In Part II I discuss servicing the movement and in Part III, restoring the brass case.

Clock Repair Tools

RS Brandon
Arthur Pequegnat Brandon time only wall clock

It is time to buy the tools I need for clock repair. I already have a number of basic tools to get me started; pliers, letdown chucks, screwdrivers, etc.

However, my first significant tool is an Ollie Baker Mainspring Winder which arrived from the USA today. It is pictured below. The Ollie Baker comes with an assortment of collars for every size of mainspring.

Olie Baker spring winder
Olie Baker spring winder

The spring winder will enable me to inspect, clean, and re-install barreled or open springs on all the clocks I will be servicing. My first impression is that it is a robust and well-machined tool that will give years of service. Indeed, one of the most important tools for clock repair enthusiasts is the spring-winder.

I also ordered bushing kit #5488 from Perrins today which will enable me to have the bushings I need in order to use the Bergeon Bushing Machine that I will purchase later on this year.

The Bergeon Bushing tool is “Swiss made” and exudes quality. In every clock, due to considerable wear, the plates have to be bushed from time to time. This tool allows the bushing of plates of various sizes. The kit includes driving punches, centering bit, stakes, and reamers.  I can bush by hand which some folks do by using appropriate reamers and files but I know that a bushing machine is a must-have. The first photo shows a clock movement that I had professionally bushed. It required 5 bushings in all in addition to cleaning and oiling and it runs very well.

With these tools, I can progress more seriously into this most interesting hobby.

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