This rather plain, box-like 8-day hour strike Rosewood veneered shelf clock is up for servicing. This is Part II of a two-part series. Go to Part I to read my notes and observations while disassembling the movement and the initial steps required to bring the clock to running condition.
The movement is in reasonably good condition but not without issues. It was running prior to cleaning (though not a full 8-day cycle) so I did not expect any further running issues after servicing and my principal goal was that it would run the full 8-day cycle.
I always take a number of photographs when I disassemble a movement. It is much easier than making diagrams and notes and best for future reference particularly when photos are archived.
This rather plain, box-like 8-day hour strike shelf clock is up for servicing. I wrote about first impressions in Sept 2019 and said at that time that the clock is in reasonably good condition, runs well, but needs a good cleaning.
When I attended the NAWCC Convention In June 2019 I bought this clock at the clock mart which is a unique opportunity to find that special clock among thousands offered for sale.
I have always equated E.N Welch with quality and this clock is no exception. I have one other Welch, the Whittier, a parlour clock, which is part of the “author” series, made in 1893. The seller knew nothing about this clock but it was attractive so I bought it.
8-day Welch movement with alarm
In 1902 the E. N. Welch Clock Co. was absorbed by the Sessions Clock Company. E N Welch had a long and glorious history and are best known for their “Patti” series of fine clocks since Patti clocks are named after famous opera stars of the time. This clock was made well before reorganization in the mid-1890s when it began producing clocks that were less expensive to manufacture, like the Whittier that had wider appeal. This clock is from about 1875.
Among common parlour clocks you will find few EN Welch clocks. There is a good reason for this. The company was absorbed by the Sessions Clock Company in 1903 so any Welch clock is 115 years old and older.
E N Welch Parlour clock, The Whittier circa 1897
This E N Welch time and strike parlour clock is the Whittier model. The clock was made some years after Welch established its reputation as a quality clock manufacturer with the Patti series. The Whittier model represents a period from 1897 onward when Welch re-organized following a bankruptcy and produced well made but inexpensive clocks for the masses.
I located the clock in an antique store in Kazabazua, Quebec in 2016 while my wife and I were on a day trip from our summer cottage. The seller said the strike side did not work and we negotiated a lower price.
The clock ran for several days but despite adjustments I was unable to get the strike side to run correctly. The stop/warning lever and the count/lifting lever were intact, so, I was puzzled; it should run. Straightening the levers might solve the problem.
You will not see Geneva stops on many clocks but if you do here is an explanation of how they work and how to set up the stops.
EN Welch Whittier parlour clock circa 1895, time and strike movement with Geneva stops
Most American clock movements do not use the middle portion of a long & powerful spring but use most, if not all of the mainspring. Geneva stops address this power issue. They are found on better quality antique movements made by American manufacturers. They are set so that when winding the mainspring you can only wind so far and then no further. As we know, clocks can’t be “over-wound” and this lets you know where the definite stopping point is.
On weight drive clocks Geneva stops are used to prevent undue force coming on the pendulum by jamming the weight against the seat board.
Stop works are used as a compromise by utilizing only the middle portion of a long and powerful spring, which varies too much in the amount of its power in the fully wound and completely released positions to get a good rate on the clock if all the force of the spring were utilized in driving the movement.
Removing the stops will do no harm to the movement but it will not release power as originally intended
You will notice a long “finger” (long point of upper star) on one of the Geneva stop gears and a wider gap (shallow groove of lower star) on the other. You set these up so that when the proper number of turns are completed the long finger meshes with the wide gap, thus preventing any further turning.
Strike side stop in lock when long point of upper star is engaged in shallow groove of lower starYou will need a letdown set to release the springs
Setting up the Geneva stop
Wind up the spring and then let it down slowly until the stop work is locked, counting the number of turns and writing it down. Then, hold the spring with your let down key and remove the stop from the plate; then count the number of turns until the spring is down and also write that down. Alternatively, wind the mainspring until it winds no further, release the mainspring with your letdown key one complete turn and set the stop. It may take more than one try to set it up correctly.
Don’t worry if they have been removed
On many antique clocks these have been removed because the repair person did not know what to do about properly setting them up.
Geneva stops removed
Removing the stops will do no harm to the movement but it will not release power as originally intended.
E. N. Welch Whittier parlour clockA very dirty, oily and rusty movement
This is perhaps the dirtiest movement I have ever worked on
This is perhaps the dirtiest movement I have ever worked on. The case, tablet and dial face are in beautiful condition and nicely preserved requiring little or no work at all to restore to its former glory but the movement is another story. A past owner either sprayed oil on the movement or dipped it in some kind of lubricant on more than one occasion. The oil was gooey, sticky and seemingly baked on. It required several washings, vigorous scrubbing with a brass brush, ultrasonic cleaning and even #0000 steel wool. I finally got most of the grime, dirt and rust off the movement.
Having so much solder on a movement is a little discouraging and I often wonder what problems lie beneath. There was solder on the centre plate nut, solder on the front and back plate, 4th wheel on the strike side and solder around the hour cannon. I decided to leave the solder on the hour cannon for now. However unsightly, I may not remove it.
Solder around fourth wheelMore solderSoldered washer around centre cannon
The solder was removed with a butane torch. Expecting bad bushing repairs and/or punch marks I found nothing! I also removed the solder around the centre nut and found that the nut was not stripped as I initially suspected. I am puzzled.
Solder removed front plateSolder removed back plate
Here is a video describing my plan to address bushing work.
In the video I mentioned the installation of eight bushings. I installed seven bushings initially but installed more later on as I discovered other power issues. One is always tempted to bush everything in a movement. Some clock-makers tend to bush everything because the one thing they do not want is the clock coming back. I understand that but I decided to take a cautious approach for this movement and bush what I felt was absolutely required.
Tapping the bushing home
After cleaning the movement the pivots were polished and pivot holes pegged. Next is assembly. I have mentioned this before that I do not have much luck getting the strike side to function on the first go-around. It usually takes me two or three attempts.
Day 2
Although I was unable to set up the strike setup correctly the principle problem was the poorly running time train. After 5-10 minutes it would stop. Suspecting a power issue I looked for bent arbours, troublesome trundles or worn gear teeth and found nothing.
However, I found considerable play in the centre arbour. Suspecting poor meshing of the main wheel with the centre arbour gear I installed the 8th bushing (back plate) then removed the strike side entirely to focus on the time train issue. The movement immediately ran but the beat was inconsistent.
A “drifting” beat (in beat and then drifts out of beat, then in-beat) usually indicates an issue with the escape wheel teeth or the escape wheel arbour. Some of the EW (escape wheel) teeth have slightly bent tips but before I straighten them I wanted to determine if there were other reasons for the stoppage.
Day 3
The clock ran for about 48 hours and suddenly stopped. I dis-assembled the movement (again) and installed three more bushings, one on the escape wheel bridge which I noticed had a fair amount of pivot wear, the other two on the third wheel, back and front mostly for insurance. I surmised that vertical motion of the EW might be causing the inconsistent beat leading to the eventual stoppage. Addressing the bent tips on the EW teeth may come later if these measures do not cure the problem.
Day 4
The time side is settling down and I am now able to get several days running without a stoppage. The beat is now consistent.
Day 5
I am going to let this clock run for a week or so before I reinstall the strike train just to be sure that there are no other power issues. I was hoping to wrap this service up fairly quickly but unanticipated problems are slowing me down.
I’ll give my final thoughts in a post in Part IV, two weeks time.
This is the Whittier model from Welch’s Authors series. Tran’s 2d ed. shows it from the 1893 catalogue. It is a half-hour strike clock. Though an alarm could be ordered this clock came without one.
It is solid walnut in construction, deep brown in colour and darkened by age. It stands 22 inches tall by 14 ½ inches wide and 5 inches deep. The crown is an ornate machine-cut design with a single bulls-eye. The Roman numeral dial face with inner brass ring is original but has been covered with a clear varnish.
Clock face in good condition
The spade hands with circular cut-outs also appear to be original. The tablet is in remarkable condition and features an embossed gold colored scene of two female child warriors on each side presumably guarding an older female warrior (laurel and spear), reminiscent of Greek or Roman mythology.
Barely readable labelBottom label with running instructions
There are two labels on the back panel, the top designates the model name which is barely readable; the bottom label has generic operating instructions for several types of clock models. Both labels appear to have been varnished over at some point. The upper area of the back panel has a hook for hanging the clock, added by a previous owner. However, this is a shelf or mantel clock, not meant to be hung on a wall. I doubt that the pendulum bob was this colour originally.
Though incorrectly termed a kitchen or gingerbread clock it is commonly referred to as a parlor or hall clock. Since the company last produced clocks in 1902 I would comfortably date this clock at between 1893-96 or perhaps a little later, 1901-02. The E. N. Welch Clock Company has a fascinating history (detailed in Part I of this series) and unfortunately not many of these well-made American clocks are still around.
Time and strike movement
In Part III I will describe the challenges of servicing the clock movement.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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