Tag: clock

Waterbury, New Haven or EN Welch – A true Frankenstein clock

E N Welch case

Is this attractive 30 hour weight driven Ogee a Waterbury, a New Haven or an E.N. Welch? All of the above, actually and perhaps more.

The older the clock and the greater the number of owners means there is an increased chance that there have been minor and even significant changes to the clock

Is it a marriage or a Frankenstein?

When horologists speak of a marriage they mean the clock in its entirety is not original. It generally means the movement is not original to the case but it can have other meanings as well. Various parts and components might have been added or changed over time. Over the life of a clock it has often been in the hands of many owners particularly if the clock is well over 100 years old. The older the clock and the greater the number of owners means there is an increased chance that there have been minor and even significant changes. Each owner may add or take away components in the interest of having a reliable clock while sacrificing authenticity. Functionality trumps aesthetics. When a clock goes well beyond the horologists definition of a marriage, it is called a Frankenstein.

A Frankenstein clock is made up of a mixture of clock parts from many makers. In this case, a previous owner acquired a number of non-working Ogee clocks, took what was salvageable from each one and constructed a working clock.

New Haven 30 hour movement

This clock was purchased at auction as a non-running example and cost the owner very little money. I was asked to take a look at it and perhaps “do something to make it run”. It came complete with weights for both sides missing only the pendulum bob and the correct key. The key that came with it was a #3 mantel clock key as the original would have been a crank style key. One weight was stuck in the right channel past its hook; the other was loose in the case; not a good way to transport a clock. Though difficult to tell if they are original to this clock, the weights are those typically found in a 30-hour brass time and strike movement.

The numbers have been repainted by the writer

The dial is not original to the case though it is correct for the period. There is a stamped impression in French on the back of the dial suggesting that the clock it was attached to was intended for export to France (Chauncey Jerome?).

Tablet design

The tablet is a nicely detailed floral design but has some loss as one would expect given its age. However, the tablet and the door do not appear to be original to the case. There are small blocks under each hinge suggesting the door was “made to fit” this case. Nails are used on one hinge and screws on the other.

Waterbury coil gong

The case is an E.N. Welch, the time and strike weight driven movement is New Haven and the coil gong is a Waterbury.

The aluminum spindle for the cable just above the movement on the right side is an curious touch.

Aluminum spindle

A wall hook at the top and back of the case suggests that it was hung rather than having sat on a shelf. Knowledgeable Ogee clock owners know that these clocks were never meant to be hung though many were displayed in that manner.

I took the movement out of the case, inspected it for wear and found it to be in very good condition with no obvious pivot, tooth, pinion or click wear. The verge and escape wheel similarly had little wear. The cables for the weights should be just long enough to bring the weight to the bottom of the case with a little to spare. On both sides the cables were twice as long as they should have been. The suspension spring and rod which is a later replacement, is too long as the bottom of the spring touches the crutch loop. The crutch loop had been incorrectly turned 90 degrees requiring a simple twist with pliers to correct it. How it ran is a puzzle since there was no impulse transmitted from the crutch to the pendulum rod. A previous owner, though well intentioned had little knowledge of how a movement functioned.

Incorrect grain direction on top piece

The rosewood veneer though dulled with age is in fair shape and had acceptable repairs with the exception of the flat horizontal strip on the top front, which upon closer inspection, is a replacement with simulated grain oriented in the wrong direction. Other issues are minor chips on the bottom edge of the case, two pieces of missing veneer on the right side and slight bubbling of veneer on the top left side panel.

Veneer issues

So, what is this clock exactly?

The answer is that it is a 30 hour Ogee clock. It is also an amalgam of many clock parts, a Frankenstein. From afar the entire clock looks very good, but closer examination immediately reveals it many sins. As they say, “Nice from afar but far from nice!”. A resourceful person took all the good parts from a variety of clocks and combined them to make a clock that actually runs and keeps good time.

Is it a keeper?

For discerning clock collectors this example is far from acceptable and certainly diminishes the value of a clock considerably even if it runs well. An expert looks for precisely these things prior to any decision and any serious collector of Ogee clocks would instantly walk away. For someone either interested in the history of clock production or those entering the world of clocks wanting a cheap clock to practice and learn with, it is certainly worth keeping.

The clock is running strongly and striking as it should following a cleaning and oiling. This 30 hour New Haven, Waterbury, E.N. Welch Ogee clock from the 19th century would fool most people.

It reminds me of that old expression….Caveat Emptor (Let the Buyer Beware)!

The first cuckoo clock in my collection – thank you Uncle Dave

Dave's cuckoo clock

When people ask about my clock collection their first comment is, “Do you have a cuckoo clock”. No, I say and their reply typically would be “You should have one!” I often wonder why folks think I should have one. I suppose many collectors have at least one in their collection. Now when they ask I can now say, “of course I do”.

sellers are interested in a sale and do not need to know anything about the clocks past

Thank you, Uncle Dave.

I have acquired most of my clocks at flea markets, auctions, word of mouth etc., even had a few given to me but I know little about their history. The sellers are interested in a sale and do not need to know anything about the clocks past; unfortunate but it is what it is.

On the other hand, I have several clocks which have a very interesting heritage; my Crispi wall clock by Junghans that survived the Halifax Explosion, my Ingraham Huron shelf clock that remained within in the same family for over 80 years or my Canadian Time wall clock by Arthur Pequegnat that hung in a railway station waiting room until 1993.

This is not any old cuckoo clock. This one is especially important……to me at least. This one can actually talk to me. I’ll explain.

My cousin Dave (we called him Uncle) died in 2017and his family knew that he loved his cuckoo clock. Rather than give or sell it to a stranger they decided to hand it over to the family clock guy…..me!  Dave was related through my father’s father and has a cottage next door to ours in the province of Quebec. Dave was a helluva a guy and he would do anything for you. He loved life and cherished it to the end.

From time to time you will find service dates written or stamped inside vintage or antique clock cases. These dates give you an indication of the age of the clock and how well it was cared for over the years

In the early 1970s, he and his wife went to Germany for a tour, returned to Canada and regretted not buying a German cuckoo clock. So, he promptly went to the Cuckoo Clock Shop in Ottawa (our nation’s capital) and bought one. He also wanted it in running order. Over the years whenever it stopped he had it promptly repaired.

Back of clock

he history of an object is a window to its past. This clock is a common 30-hour cuckoo clock made in West Germany in July of 1975 (photo below).) and thousands of these were made and sold all over the world. It has a Regula movement, still made to this day. Regula movements are made by SBS-Feintechnik, and are dated by a letter code. This one has the letter “V” which indicates that it was made in 2007.

German made 30-hour cuckoo clock

The clocks complete service history is recorded on the back panel. When I opened the back access door to inspect the movement and the condition of the bellows I found all the dates when the cock was brought in for repair. From time to time you will find service dates written or stamped inside vintage or antique clock cases. These dates give you an indication of the age of the clock and how well it was cared for over the years.

Detailed service history behind the access panel
  • Oct 10, 1978, clean oil adjust, major repair
  • Sept 22, 1988, CXO (clean and oil) adjusted by “AO”
  • October 30, 1990, new movement, repair by “AO”
  • Jan 1996, 5996 (job #) clean, oil & adjust
  • April 27, 2007, 9869 (job #) new movement and chains

From the service records, I observed that the clock is on its third movement. It is often simpler (and cheaper) to replace the movement in a cuckoo clock rather than to repair it. Attempting to repair a cuckoo clock is very time consuming, frustrating, and costly. In addition, if the entire clock had to be shipped, the case usually incurs extensive damage as it makes its travels. This is the reason most clockmakers no longer accept most cuckoo clocks for repair.

Regula 1-day movements typically cost less than CDN120. The cost of servicing a two-train clock locally is CDN225 and up, so, replacing the movement is a logical decision.

Cuckoo clock bellows on left and right.

I oiled the movement, installed the weights and now it is a lovely little 1-day clock that dutifully cuckoos on the hour.

We have a number of clocks in our summer cottage and my wife and decided that that is where it should hang. Everyone who visits marvels at the sound of the cuckoo clock, it is so distinctive. Now they say, “that’s a nice cuckoo clock, where did you get it?”.

It is not perfect. Sadly at some point in every cuckoo clock’s life, it needs the bellows replaced and these bellows are brittle and in poor condition. A cuckoo clock that does not cuckoo is, well, just another clock! The bellows is a cottage project for next summer.

And yes, provenance is important.

The Canada Clock Company (Hamilton Clock Co.) – a brief history

30-hour time and strike movement with clock company inscription on the bottom of the front plate

If one were to ask those with a keen interest in Canadian antique clocks, the word Pequegnat would immediately come to mind. Pequegnat produced clocks for close to 40 years and left an indelible mark on Canadian culture.

Predating Arthur Pequegnat is a lesser known clock maker (or clock-makers) that made clocks between 1872 and 1884. The Canada Clock Co, and the Hamilton Clock Co. struggled over a 12 year period to put Canada on the clock-making map. In 1872 the Canada Clock Co. established itself in Whitby, Ontario (Canada) but lasted just 4 years before failing, though largely due to a devastating factory fire.

Case is in fair condition, dial face has some flaking
Canada Clock Company cottage clock

Out of the ashes came another attempt in 1876 and key principles including manager John Collins moved to Hamilton and set up the Hamilton Clock Company. After 4 years this new company also failed and production halted in 1880. In late 1880 one more attempt was made to establish a new company called the Canada Clock Company resurrecting the old name. It is still based in Hamilton at the old Hamilton Clock Co. factory. Success was short-lived as the company declared bankruptcy in 1884 ending a dozen years producing clocks for the Canadian market.

Although both movements and cases were made in Canada they were copies American styles
Canada Clock Company, Prince of Wales parlour clock
Canada Clock Company, Prince of Wales parlour clock
Canada Clock Company, City of Hamilton parlour clock
Canada Clock Company, City of Hamilton parlour clock

I have grouped the clocks from the three companies and these are their characteristics. The most common clocks found today are the weight-driven, thirty-hour “Ogee” style, with colourful birds or flowers surrounded by a black background on the glass tablet. At least five different labels are known, four have a beaver on them. The large printed paper label was located inside the case on the lower back. Spring-driven mantel clocks with plain cases were also made with thirty-hour movements. Although both movements and cases were made in Canada they were obvious copies of American styles.

Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple clock
Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple clock with etched glass tablet
Loss on the clock label
Clock label showing the Hamilton Clock Company factory

Also produced was a spring-driven “school house” wall clock.

At least sixty models of spring-driven mantel clocks are known, with both thirty-hour and eight-day movements.  Most of the door tablets (Canada Clock Co.) have acid etched glass designs, unique to the two Hamilton-based companies and done in association with a local glass factory. Wall clocks are also found with the Canada Clock Company, Hamilton label.

The most desirable clocks are the ornate time and strike parlour clocks such as the City of Hamilton and Prince of Wales pictured above.

Unfortunately, a valiant attempt to grow a home-bred clock company failed miserably. However, the clocks of all three companies are highly sought after by Canadian collectors today.

Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock (The Pointed Top)

Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock

This is a Canadian made clock I bought at an antique store on Bloomfield, Ontario this past summer (2018).

Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock
This clock is affectionately known as the “Pointed Top”

The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. made clocks in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) from 1904 to 1941. Canadian clock collectors are very familiar with the name and associate Pequegnat clocks with solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs and nationalism since many clocks were named after towns and cities in Canada.

Pequegnat made mantel, shelf, hall clocks (Tall case) and wall clocks mostly of oak but some were mahogany veneered. The Kitchen clock or gingerbread clock as it is often called was very popular at the time and Pequegnat made an effort to keep up with current styles with a range called the Maple Leaf. There were six versions of the Maple Leaf clock made by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. Though the dimensions are similar they share two unique characteristics; all Maple Leaf’s have the distinctive maple leaf tablet and Maple Leaf pendulum. It is Pequegnat’s interpretation of a truly Canadian clock styled after American clocks.

Label found underneath the base

This clock is affectionately known as the “Pointed Top”. Maple Leaf clocks are easily found on auction & for-sale sites and can be had for a mere fraction of the cost of the more desirable hall and wall clocks.

Hammer and coil gong
Hammer and coil gong

I have several Pequegnat clocks in my collection, two of which are Maple Leaf’s, a “fan top” and now this, the “pointed top”. In my view, the pointed top is the best design of the series.

Made of quarter sawn golden oak, it is reminiscent of a Gothic steeple clock, with squared columns on either side and a pointed centre with stylistic applique above the 5 inch dial. The base is a simple angled pedestal sitting on a box frame.

Pendulum bob with Canadian Maple Leaf
Pendulum bob with Canadian Maple Leaf

Some clocks have something peculiar about them and this one is no exception. Most Pequegnat labels are found on the back board. The label on this clock is underneath the base which is an odd location for a Pequegnat. If this was a standard practice it looks original and has the usual amount of loss one would expect from a 100 year old clock label. While the name Berlin is on the dial, the label indicates that the clock was made in Kitchener, Ontario. There are two possible explanations; either the dial face is a replacement from a older clock or the clock was made during the transition period (1916) when the name of the city was changed from Berlin to Kitchener during the First World War.

The movement is a distinctive Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates and brass bushings pressed into the plates

The glass tablet is in excellent condition. It is not uncommon to find some loss especially a few missing maple leaves here and there but this is the best I have seen. The dial face has some flaking but is otherwise in good condition; the Roman Numerals are vivid and unfaded. The spade hands are correct for the clock and look original. The oak case is in great shape with no missing or split pieces. The finish is in excellent condition and the oak grain enhances the simple lines, in fact, this clock has aged very well.

Tablet is in excellent condition
Tablet is in excellent condition

I took the movement out of its case to inspect it. It is a distinctive Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates and brass bushings pressed into the plates. Not surprisingly it had been worked on in the past. One bushing on the front plate has punch marks around it otherwise the movement was tight and there appears to be little evidence of wear. There is one small issue however; the lever that activates the passing strike on the half hour is loose in the arbour and has turned to one side. Turning it to the correct position does little to fix the problem. At some point I will get in there with Lock-Tite to secure it.

The fact that it does not strike reliably on the half hour does not particularly bother me. I oiled the movement, reinstalled the movement into its case, set the beat, wound it and it maintains a full eight day cycle.

I am very pleased with this acquisition but I my search goes on for the more desirable 15-day Pequegnat Moncton wall clock and of course the Regulator #1.

Get it now before it’s gone – is this clock worth collecting?

Antique steeple clock. Battery operated. Has been refinished Very nice clock

Hmm, I wonder if they had batteries 100 years ago?

Holy Smokes, a grandfather clock

The ad simply says “Clock”.

It is working, very god condition

Must have been blessed by the Pope.

Why are antique & vintage clock prices all over the map?

Garish Victorian excess but I like it!

A few months ago I was following a NAWCC thread on the volatility of clock prices and thought I would echo comments from some of the posters as well as my own thoughts on why clock prices are seemingly all over the map.

Market conditions and demand play a significant role. I have watched sadly as prices for many early American clocks have plummeted yet high end clocks have retained their value. Theories abound including tough economic times and the newer generation’s rejection of anything old.

As one poster said, “How is a price arrived at? It is a murky and confusing process. People use a number of metrics including a price consistently achieved at auction and their own experience buying and/or selling. Most offer clocks for 2 to 3 times what they expect to receive knowing that they will be negotiated down because it is much harder to mark something up. It is a very inexact science and a source of much debate. An object is ultimately worth what someone is willing to pay.” That’s especially true of a truly rare clock for which there is no real comparison. The term “rare” is difficult to define but rare is what most “experts” generally agree upon.

However, what was once considered “rare” based upon the largely anecdotal experience of persons whether they are dealers, collectors or auctioneers has been changed by the “eBay effect” where rarity is challenged by many examples offered for sale. It has been a real game changer.

Sperry and Shaw New York style for $75
Sperry and Shaw New York style clock for $75

Another poster said, “Many people who deal in antiques and collectibles cannot know everything.” It is especially true in the blossoming low end line of antique shops which are no different than flea markets and junk shops. Many of these stores rely on impulse buying and clock experts are not their target customer.

The poster went on to say, “These clocks are not intended be sold to a serious collector, but the impulse buyer will make the clock purchase based on any number of factors – decorative; “That steeple clock would fit perfectly on the mantel” or “We don’t care that it might not work, it is for show only” or nostalgic; “We always wanted an old clock and we can now afford it”. You cannot discount the value of being able to see the object up close, smell it, touch it and hear it tick and or strike.”

A true clock store, usually with repair services, commands high prices for their wares, but the clocks usually come with a guarantee and the comfort of knowing that it will work well and will do so for years to come. Internet stores lack the fixed and variable costs (and reputation) that a brick and mortar establishment has and, all other things being equal, can offer their product at a lower cost. However, to make a true cost comparison, one should add the cost of shipping, packaging, handling and insurance that will need to be paid by the purchaser.

Rural Nova Scotia antique shop
Is this an antique store or a junk shop?

I cringe as I walk into some of these shops. Most antique malls that I’ve discovered charge a monthly rate plus a commission percentage that result in significant markups. I spotted a Mauthe box clock priced at $300.00. It had a marred dial, broken beveled glass panels and marked “as-is”. When I asked the dealer about a better price, his answer was to knock 10% off. I walked away shaking my head.

There is no true “standard” pricing for any vintage or antique clock. As with most objects there is a price range that most would consider reasonable. I have paid more for some clocks than they are worth but armed with increased knowledge I can now make more informed decisions in the future. Caveat Emptor is the principle which should guide every buyer. The buyer alone is responsible for checking the quality and suitability of goods before a purchase is made. Education is the key as an informed buyer will make much better choices.

New Haven – servicing a 30 hour spring-driven clock movement

Ogee New Haven clock

This is a 30 hour or 1-day New Haven Ogee shelf clock. 1875-80 seems to be the approximate period of manufacture for this smallish Ogee clock. The case measures 18 1/2 by 11 3/4 inches (47cm X 30cm) and the hour strike movement measures 3 1/2 by 5 inches (9cm X 12.7cm).

So, its a bit of a miss-match. Imperfect but attractive just the same

This 30 hour New Haven Ogee shelf clock looks nice from a distance but closer inspection reveals a number of issues regarding the condition of the case. Although the sides panels of the clock are veneered, the front veneer has been stripped likely because of significant loss or damage. Crude chisel marks on the left front of the case suggest that the veneer in this section was tough to take off. This is unfortunate, but I have no intention of re-veneering any part of this clock. There is also veneer loss on the top right side. From a distance the entire clock actually looks good and the casual observer would not notice the difference.

It takes a#3 key to wind the clock. It is probably the only American shelf clock I have that uses a key that small.

The movement looks original to the case and there are indications that it has been worked on in the past. There are punch marks surrounding several pivot holes, an common old-style repair to close the holes.

30 hour movement
30 hour movement, prior to cleaning

The coil gong is a replacement and is in a slightly different location than the original gong judging from screw holes to its right. The gong is probably from an E. N. Welch or a Gilbert. The clock dial face is a recent addition and the access door knob looks like it is a later addition.

So, its a bit of a miss-match. Imperfect but functional.

The movement was dis-assembled and the parts cleaned in my recently acquired Quantrex 140 ultrasonic cleaner. The movement parts came out shining particularly the lantern pinions.

Front plate removed
Front plate removed

The pivots were in very good shape and polished up well with my Butterworth Bushing Polishing System that I use with my multi-speed Dremel tool. I decided to tackle only the worst bushing holes; the centre canon, back plate and the escape wheel bridge. Four bushings were also installed on second and third wheels, front and back plates.

Movement test
Movement test
Testing in the clock case rather than on a stand
Testing in the clock case rather than on a stand

Some consider 30 hour clocks as a hassle because they must be wound once a day but I am okay with that. This 30-hour Ogee clock runs very well, keeps good time and I am pleased with the servicing.

Grandfathers old clock – now what do I do with it? Part II

 

Photo sent to me by my cousin

I posted Part I of a four-part article on this curious schoolhouse clock recently. In this, Part II I discuss the what I like and what frustrates me about this project.

I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. Now that I have it what do I do with it. I thought long and hard about what my next steps should be and considered advice from friends and family.

  1. Do absolutely nothing,
  2. Discard the case, buy a donor case and install the parts I have or,
  3. “Preserve” it, that is, not change it in a significant way but have a working clock.
I had hopes of restoring this clock to its former glory but after discovering a home-built case I have decided to proceed differently

The good stuff: The dial face is definitely showing its age. There is rust and pitting throughout but the Roman Numerals are fairly clear despite some fading. The Waterbury trademark is visible on the dial just above the centre arbour. The spade hands appear to be original, though rusted. The time and strike movement is intact sans suspension spring, pendulum rod and pendulum bob. There is a Waterbury trademark on the front plate of the movement with a patent date of September 22, 1874. Just how long Waterbury used this movement deserves some research but the clock works look to be from the 1890s. The coil gong is clearly marked Waterbury. The bottom line; there is strong evidence that the movement, dial, bezel, clock hands, and coil gong are all from the same clock.

When I picked up the clock I immediately discovered that it was twice as heavy as it should be
Plywood was not available as a general building material until 1928

The frustrating stuff: When I picked up the clock I immediately discovered just how heavy it was. Makers go to great lengths to make clocks as light as possible; this one is very hefty. The backboard and front face are constructed of ½ inch plywood. Plywood would not have been available in the 1890s or even some years afterwards. The centre frame appears to be 3/4 inch board. The movement sits high on a block of wood to bring the arbours closer to the dial but the result is that they protrude too far above the face. Robertson and Phillips screws (the former invented 1909, the latter in 1932) are used everywhere. The “newer” case is very sturdy and would likely last a long time but weighs twice as much as it should. It is an interesting homemade case.

Plywood construction, twice as heavy as a typical clock case should be

The handyman, be it my grandfather or someone who it was passed on to certainly had the best of intentions. The original pieces such as the dial, movement etc. were retained but the original case was discarded. My grandparents were poor and lived modestly. In those days if things wore out folks would go to great lengths to keep them running often resorting to home repairs with materials at hand. The goal was functionality not aesthetics.

The movement, coil gong, dial face, bezel and hands are all from the same clock

Four screw holes were drilled into the original brass dial bezel and at one point in its life it was painted red. The bezel would have been originally hinged to the front face of the clock. The dial glass is missing, perhaps discarded after it broke. Aside from the 4 screws holding the dial bezel, I counted 20 more screw holes once I lifted up the bezel.

Lastly, the short drop section is without an access door.

Next steps: I had hopes of restoring this clock to its former glory but after discovering a home-built case I have decided to take another course of action.

The dial, bezel, movement and coil gong are the important mechanical bits which are in good shape. Missing are the suspension spring, pendulum rod and pendulum bob, all easily available through any clock supplier. The movement wheels run free and the mainsprings are good; all the parts are there aside from those mentioned above and there is no reason why it should not run reliably after cleaning and servicing.

The clock is waiting for me on my cousins kitchen table

The case is what it is, it is part of my history, part of my family history. It will be sanded and stained dark walnut followed by a clear topcoat. I will affix a brass plaque in memory of my grandfather and proudly hang it on the wall.

But first: The first order of business is to clean up the clock including the brass dial face sections. Next, buy new glass for the dial and a hinge for the bezel plus the movement parts that are required. Finally, I will fashion a new drop door using old wood from a donor clock.

And that’s where it ends. It can be no more than what it is.

It may not be the prettiest clock in my home but it will be a great conversation piece and after 70 years it will finally tell the time. I can only imagine my grandfather standing under the clock, comparing the time with his pocket watch and deciding if he should make just one small adjustment.

The clock is now on my project bench and I will post two more blog articles in November detailing the steps towards preserving this interesting clock.

Grandfathers old clock – I asked for it, now what do I do? Part I

 

Photo of my grandfather’s clock sent to me by my cousin

I’ve thought about this clock, dreamt about it, wondering where it was all these years…….and now I have it. Now, what do I do?

I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. After church on Sundays, my father would take us kids by for a visit; it was a weekly ritual. The house was stone quiet except for the sound of a clock ticking loudly in the kitchen. My grandfather was a veteran of WWI and was bothered by certain noises but did not mind the sound of a mechanical clock.

When I was a kid in the 1950s it looked gigantic and for some curious reason, it was painted yellow with red trim. What did I know, I thought old clocks came in all sorts of colours.

My grandfather, William George Joiner, taken during WWI

But he loved that clock. There is a story that my grandfather was fanatical about keeping the clock on time; he would constantly compare the time to his pocket watch and make adjustments, sometimes several times a day. They left the house on Olmstead Street in Eastview (now Vanier, Ontario, Canada) several years before his death and the clock was passed to a son (my uncle) and eventually handed down within his family. My grandfather passed away in 1962.

Movement is essentially intact except for the suspension spring, rod and pendulum.

A year ago I decided to track down the clock and learned that it had stayed within the family. My cousin sent a photo of the clock but upon examining it I could see that something was not quite right. It was missing parts, it looked pretty rough and that case looked homemade. At that time I replied,

Yes, it is indeed a Waterbury time and strike clock. Your description of it as a school clock is correct though it would not have been called a schoolhouse clock at the time. It would have been sold as an office clock. The patent date tells us that the clock was made after 1874 but likely manufactured in the 1890s to 1900.

In clock circles it would be described as a time and strike 8-day octagonal short drop wall clock, Roman Numeral dial face with spade hands. From the photo I can see that it is missing the pendulum (as you said) the hinged wooden drop access door which would have had a glass tablet and the brass/glass bezel which would have covered the dial. I assume these items are long gone.

It also appears to have been in a damp environment judging from the tarnished brass and the fact that the rust from the iron nails has bled through the wood. However, it is not unusual for a clock of this age to be in such a condition. I have seen far worse.

At a recent family get-together, my cousin said that if I wanted the clock I could have it. Yes, I said and I brought it home thinking about my next steps with my new clock project.

There are 4 posts in this series. Part II is in 4 days. In Part II I consider those next steps. Parts III and IV will be in November.

Let me know what you would do with this project.

Sessions Drop Octagon – a pint-sized schoolhouse clock

Sessions Drop Octagon

A working clock for $25? You can’t go wrong.

Found this little schoolhouse clock not 10 minutes from where I live. It is a Sessions Drop Octagon. It was manufactured in Forestville Conn. USA in the early 1920s and spent most of it’s life hung in a one-room schoolhouse near Springhill, Nova Scotia (Canada). The seller said that he had taken it out of the schoolhouse when it was decommissioned in the 1970s and it has been in storage ever since.

It is small, measuring 21 inches high by 13 1/2 inches wide and with a 7 inch Arabic dial.

Foxing

“It’s not running” he said. “Fine” I said. I took it home and had it running within 10 minutes. Although it ran strongly it required a good cleaning. I took the movement out of its case, dis-assembled it, cleaned all the parts in an ultrasonic cleaner, polished the pivots, cleaned and oiled the mainspring, installed 2 bushings, reinstalled the movement, tested it and set about cleaning up the case.

Time-only movement

After a Murphy’s Soap clean-up to the case I let it thoroughly dry then applied 2 coats of shellac to bring back the natural luster of the wood which was in otherwise good condition. The clock face had some foxing, which, in clock circles, means that some of the tin byproduct had leached through to the paper label and discoloured it. A little unsightly but I decided to live with it.  I hung it up over my desk as one of a trio of time zone clocks to remind me of the time where my kids live.

Time zone clocks
Time zone clocks, Session clcok on right

The clock is a loud ticker but it runs well and should be reliable for years to come.

Perspective on Horological (clock) Development

Need a quick primer on developments and inventions in horology. You have come to the right place.

18th Century shelf clock Porto, Portugal

Though by no means a definitive guide the following are some important dates in the history of the clock as gathered through a number of sources. The difficultly in affixing some dates with precision results from discrepancies among sources.

Horological developments during the centuries before the mechanical clock are left out altogether. Water (Clepsydra) and sun clocks of the middle ages and astronomical clocks of ancient China deserve special mention but are the subject of a separate discourse and are not included here.

Important dates in Horological Development

  • CA. 1300 – First mechanical verge clock, Europe
  • 1364 – Astronomical clock conceived by Giovanni de Dondi, Italy
  • 1386 – Tower (turret) clock Salisbury Cathedral, England
Salisbury cathedral clock, photo by Dr. Meghan Joiner
  • CA. 1400 – Fusee invented by Jacobs, Czechoslovakia
  • CA. 1450 – Table clock with spring and fusee, Phillip the Good of Burgundy, France
  • CA. 1500 – Mainspring invented, Germany
  • CA. 1510 – Watch invented by Peter Henlein, Germany
  • CA. 1560 – Spring driven portable clock, Germany
  • CA. 1570 – Oldest known clock with a second hand, Orpheus clock, Germany
  • 1637 – Galileo, swinging temple lamp, pendulum control conceived, Italy
  • CA. 1650 – First tower clock appears in Colonies, America
  • 1656 – Pendulum clock devised by Huygens, Holland
  • 1657 – Verge and foliot gives way to pendulum control, Huygens, Holland
  • 1658 – Long-case prototype made by Fromanteel adapted from lantern clock, England
  • 1660 – Balance wheel conceived by Hooke, England
  • CA. 1675 – Richard Towneley invents the dead-beat escapement, England
  • 1675 – Balance wheel with spiral spring invented by Huygens, Holland
  • CA. 1675 – Recoil escapement and crutch invented by Hooke in collaboration with Clement, England
  • 1676 – Rack striking developed by Barlow, England
  • 1680 – 1700 – famous horologists of this era were Arnold, Earnshaw, East, Graham, Knibb, Compion and Windmills of England; Berthoud, Breguet and LeRoy of France
  • 1701 – St Sulpice seminary tower clock (imported from France), Montreal, Canada
  • 1713 – Harrison invents marine chronometer, England
  • CA. 1715 – Break-arch dial introduced
  • 1715 – Graham perfects deadbeat escapement, regarded as the “father” of the dead-beat escapement
  • 1717 – First tower clock of America, Benjamin Bagnall, Boston
  • 1726 – Mercurial pendulum invented (temperature compensating pendulum), Graham, England
  • 1726 – Wall clock by Thomas Bennett, 8 day brass, weight driven, America
  • 1736 – Harrison’s marine chronometer tested at sea (accurately ascertaining longitude), England
  • 1770 – White dials appear in English longcase clocks
  • 1776 – Independent seconds train invented for watch, Pouzait, Switzerland
  • 1790 – Vienna regulator style case emerges in Austria
  • 1790 – American woodworks clocks begin to be appear
  • 1802 – Willard patents his banjo clock, America
  • 1806 – Terry introduces Pillar and Scroll clock, America
  • 1809 – Martin Cheney leaves America to set up a clock-making shop in Montreal, Canada
  • 1810 – Carriage clock (Pendule De Voyage) introduced by Breguet of France
  • 1818 – Heman Clark makes wrought brass movement for Pillar and Scroll case, America
  • 1825 – Rolled brass production begins in America
  • 1837 – Noble Jerome 30-hour brass movement patent approved, America
  • 1840 – American brass movements in mass production
  • 1842 – American brass movement clocks exported to England by Chauncey Jerome
  • 1845 – Wood-works movement production ends, America
  • 1850 – Westminster tower clock designed by Lord Grimthorpe and made by Dent, England
  • CA. 1850 – Brocot (pin-wheel) escapement and pendulum suspension introduced, France
  • CA. 1850 – American mass production of watches begins
  • 1860 – Junghans (Germany) sent to America to study American mass production techniques
  • 1870 – Decline in English long-case clocks
  • 1874 – Mass production of mantel and wall clocks begin in Whitby, Canada,
  • 1900 – American clock production is at its height; makers are Ansonia, Ingraham, Gilbert, Howard, New Haven, Seth Thomas, Waterbury, and Welch
  • 1904 – Arthur Pequegnat begins clock production in Berlin, Canada
  • 1906 – Eureka electric clock introduced, America
  • CA. 1910 – Torsion pendulum clock (400-day) introduced, Germany
  • 1920-40 – Decline in American mechanical clock production
  • 1941 – Arthur Pequegnat ceases production, Canada
  • CA. 1960-70 – End of mass produced mechanical clocks, America (though cheaper Japanese, Korean & Chinese mechanical clocks flood North America)
  • Present day – Some movement and clockmakers remain; Howard Miller (Ridgeway), Keininger, Hermle, Chelsea, Jaeger LaCoultre among others

The clock is one of mans greatest achievements. The development of instruments to tell time is the unwavering toil of brilliant minds from many disciplines who, over 800 years, worked tirelessly to create, innovate and improve methods for telling the time.

Horology is not only the study of time but the synergy of art, joinery, fashion, design, décor, physics, engineering, metallurgy and mathematics. Indeed, the study of the mechanical clock is a microcosm of our society.

Time rules life – like it or not.

Back from a little break – now for more clocks

Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1 is still on my wish list

Lots of exciting news over the summer. Six new clocks, three of which have been on my wish list for a while. One, a Cuckoo clock, is my first. Another is an Ansonia crystal regulator, two more Pequegnat clocks, a curious Waterbury wall clock and more. I will be writing about my new acquisitions in the weeks to come.

I also managed to expand my clock library as I have found several interesting books on horology which I will report on in a future article.

For those who wrote to me over the summer, thanks and again I apologize for the delay in getting back to you.

It is good to be back.

Tick Talk Tuesday #18 – Is my Mauthe balance wheel fixable?

Tick-Talk Tuesday
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

BJ writes,

“What did you do to fix the balance on the older Hermle movement?  My local clock man would not repair and I love the sound of my clock.  The spring has come away from the top – ok, I took out to try to adj the inner ring and dropped it.  ( it was  losing an hour a day.)  anyhow, the fork also looks to have been bent.

Is this fixable?  I’ve seen a few clocks on-line but did not know if they can be used to repair my movement easily.”

Hermle balance wheel escapement
Hermle balance wheel escapement

My reply,

“Platform escapements and balance wheels are the work of watch-makers. I am not surprised your clock maker would not repair it. In my case I did not have to re-attach the spring but did have to adjust it. If the spring has pulled through the upper block, you could try threading it back in and in give it a little solder to hold it. If it is snapped off, that is much more difficult. Even  if you were to get it back in, that would change the dynamics of the helical spring which is now slightly shorter. You can easily bend the fork back to where it was.

You have some options.

  • Find a donor movement on eBay or Craigslist. If it is exact, and the same model number the parts are interchangeable. However the fact that it is on eBay may mean that the clock is worn and you are no further ahead.
  • Go to a site such as Clockworks and compare your model number to the best fit for a new movement (if you are prepared to go in that direction) or
  • check Timesavers to see if they have a replacement balance wheel.

If you should get it up and running or if you find a donor movement you may find the above article to be of some help.”

BJ writes back,

“Thanks for the article. I wonder if I can get a watch maker to take a look.  Good idea.”

 

 

 

 

Antique Grandmother Clock in Immaculate Condition

Chinese time and strike wall clock
Chinese time and strike wall clock that seller calls a grandfather clock

Antique Grandmother Clock in Immaculate Condition

I am selling my wife’s grandmother clock because it does not suit the decor of our new home. She has treasured this antique for years and doesn’t want to part with it. Please make my execution as painless as possible and buy this clock quickly. Keeps perfect time and has no scratches on the cabinet.

This ad will be removed when I am executed…………..actually just before ,,,,,so purchase this clock now

This is a Chinese clock with a calendar feature, circa the 1960s. The ad refers to it as an antique. It is not!. Vintage, perhaps. The ad refers to it as a grandmother clock. It is not!

CraftLine grandmother clock
Grandmother clock by CraftLine circa 19780; a little shorter than a grandfather clock

The seller is asking $150, five times more than it is worth. It’s probably fairly reliable, looks well cared for and I would take it if it were given to me.

“Executed”.  Is that funny?

Tick-Talk Tuesday #17 – Can you tell me something about my Mauthe wall clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, questions about its origin, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
Mauthe time and strike box clock
Mauthe time and strike box clock

RC writes,

“I was looking online for information on the exact Mauthe Box clock you have.  I am going through my late fathers estate & trying to find out what it’s worth. It belong to my great uncle and passed onto my dad. Every since I was a little boy I can remember this clock being at my great uncles home.

Any information you could give me would be greatly appreciated. I have attached a picture of the clock.”

This is my box clock.

Box clock
Mauthe time and strike Box clock

My reply,

“You have a time and strike box clock. These have excellent movements and should run for years. A servicing would be due, however.

It might have the 3-rod “Divina gong” which, according to the standard German reference, Hans-Heinrich Schmid’s (2005) Lexikon der Deutschen Uhrenindustrie 1850-1980, is a Mauthe trade-name registered in 1912. It would have a pleasant two-tone, bim-bam sound. Unmarked box clocks like mine were likely sold as a Solar house brand by Eatons. Your is marked and was likely bought from a jeweler.

Thousands of German “box clocks” were made in the first third of the 20th century. The box clock replaced the classic “Vienna Regulator” after the First World War and reflected a minimalist approach to clock design. Most were made in Germany. I would date your to about the 1930s.

The following is excerpted from one my blog posts.

Mauthe clocks have had a long and illustrious history in Germany.  In 1844 Friedrich Mauthe and his wife Marie founded the company in Schwenningen to produce watch parts. At the end of the 1860s Mauthe began to produce their own wall clocks (and movements). The Mauthe sons Christian (1845-1909) and James (1847-1915) took over in 1876. In 1886 Mauthe began manufacturing its own springs. Around 1900, alarm clocks, pendulum wall clocks, grandfather clocks, office clocks and so called “Buffet Uhren” or “Buffet clocks” were offered. In 1904 the 3rd generation took over (Eugene Schreiber (1877-1939) – son of Christian Mauthe, Dr. Fritz Mauthe (1875-1951) – son of Jacob and Mauthe Alfred (1879-1911) – son of Jacob Mauthe to build on the base of the company.

In 1925 Mauthe announced a new trademark. It shows a right-looking eagle with outstretched wings, holding in its talons a three-part round plate with the letters F, M and S.
In the  1930s the company at its peak produced about 45.000 clocks per week.  About 60% were produced for export markets such as England. In the Mid-30s Mauthe started to manufacture their first wrist watches and some were supplied to the German Army (“Wehrmacht”). From 1946 on Mauthe re-started with the production of wrist watches. Shortly after that the company eventually fell into decline.

As to value, Mauthe wall clocks are currently in the $200 and $500 range depending on condition. A serviced clock would fetch more.

I would clean it up, service it and proudly display it.”

 

Daylight Savings Time – let’s get rid of it!

Trio of clocks
Front room collection
Front room collection

We call it Daylight Saving Time (DST), the British call it “British Summer Time” and “summertime” in other areas. It is the practice of advancing clocks during summer months so that evening daylight lasts longer while sacrificing normal sunrise times. Typically, regions that use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time. We have a little expression, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.

Mauthe buffet clock
Mauthe buffet clock

The idea was proposed by George Hudson in 1885 and first implemented by the Austrian Empire in 1916. Some countries do not recognize it in all regions. In Canada, for example, most of Saskatchewan does not change clocks spring and fall, it technically observes DST year round. Parts of Nunavut remain on Eastern Standard Time throughout the year. In the USA (which has 11 time zones) most areas observe DST with the exception of Arizona and Hawaii. Florida has recently applied to get rid of DST.

I advocate a move to “permanent daylight saving time” that is, staying on summer hours all year with no time shifts

DST clock shifts sometimes complicate timekeeping and can disrupt travel, billing, record keeping, medical devices, heavy equipment, and sleep patterns. Computer software often adjusts clocks. Radio controlled clocks adjust the time automatically which is very convenient. We have two modern Sony clocks in our home which do exactly that.

My only tall-case clcok, Ridgeway, Hamilton Country
My only tall-case clock, Ridgeway, Hamilton Country

But for the 35 clocks that I have running at any given time, that means making a manual adjustment twice a year which is time-consuming and an unnecessary hassle.

There is a constant dispute about the benefits and drawbacks. Proponents say that it conserves energy and has a psychological benefit of extending the daylight hours. Opponents say that the energy arguments are inconclusive. People must remember to change their clocks which is a time-consuming exercise, particularly for antique and vintage mechanical clocks that cannot be moved backward safely.

For most of my clocks I either simply let them complete their cycle, stop them and when the correct time shows on the clock, I start them up. There is less wear and tear on the movement and I think my clocks are happier for it.

But why go through this nonsense; let’s just get rid of DST! I advocate a move to “permanent daylight saving time” that is, staying on summer hours all year with no time shifts. My clocks will appreciate it and yours will too!

What is this clock thing for? #2 – the strike rod lock

Strike rod stabilzer

If you ever need to transport a German box clock or a similar style wall clock there are several steps you must take before you remove it from the wall.

German "box" clock by Mauthe
German “box” clock by Mauthe, sold under the Solar or Forestville name in Canada

One of these procedures is to secure the strike rods. The gong or strike rods are screwed into the gong block. If allowed to move during transport there is a risk that the rod(s) will break. Although they are strong and withstand years of striking they are also brittle and can easily snap. Clock-makers have several solutions for securing the rods. This is one of them. Yours may be similar.

Gong block
The gong block

On some clocks, you may find a fork-like device that turns to secure the rods.

Strike rod stabilzer
Strike rod stabilizer

By turning it clockwise the three gong rods will fit into the forks as shown in the next photo.

Rod Stabilizer
The pendulum is removed and rods are now locked in place

Once the rods are secured in place and you have removed the pendulum rod and bob as well as secure the access door, you can now safely remove your clock from the wall.

Vintage alarm clock – they say rust never sleeps

Vintage Alarm Clock. Other than the rust, everything about it appears to be intact. May still work, just leaving it as is

Yeah, about that rust!

What is this clock thing for? #3 – the let-down key

Some folks collect clocks without actually working on them. Collecting clocks and repairing them are two very different things. I know people who would gladly send their clocks out for servicing and don’t seem to mind the extra cost. I like to do my own work.

If you work on your own clocks or service clocks for others you know how important it is to ensure safety at all times. Servicing a clock movement requires that you disassemble it completely and safely. There are specific tools designed not only to make life easier as a clock repair person but will ensure your safety at the same time.

Before taking the pins or nuts from the movement plates there are important steps you must follow to ensure your safety working with movements. There is a minimal threat of injury working with weight driven clocks (unless a weight drops on your foot) so the following information pertains to spring driven clocks be they open mainsprings or springs contained in a barrel. The let-down tool is designed specifically for spring driven clocks.

Click replaced
Click, click spring and ratchet
The letdown key
The letdown key is engaged prior to releasing the click

Some clock movements from French, English and German clocks, for example, contain mainsprings within a barrel, safer than open mainsprings. If the spring lets go in a barrel there is still a risk of damage to the gear teeth and wheels however the break will be contained within the barrel itself. The letdown key is used to release the power of the mainspring into its barrel.

The flat clamps (upper left in photo below) are for those open mainsprings which do not leave a lot of working room. Otherwise, the round clamps are good for most applications. Prior to working on a movement the mainsprings must be letdown or restrained in their clamps.

C-clamps used to contain the power of the mainspring

A flat C-clamp is wrapped around the mainspring as you can see in the next photo.

Mainspring contained in a clamp
Mainspring contained in a C-clamp

Once the mainspring is safely contained you can work on it with a spring winder, like this spring-winder from Olie Baker .

Mainspring servicing
Mainspring servicing using a Olie Baker spring winder

Here’s how it works. There are four pieces in the let-down set. There are 3 chucks in sizes #5-6, #7-8 and #10-12 plus the handle. Choose the size that fits the winding arbour of your movement. Then insert the let-down end with chuck into the winding arbour. Turn it until the mainspring is compressed. Fit a clamp around the mainspring. Once the clamp is secure around the mainspring release the click spring with a small screwdriver and push it out of the way. Once the click spring is out of the way move the click away from the ratchet while firmly holding the let-down key. The power of the spring will be transferred to the key. Allow the spring to gradually release its power by letting the key handle spin gently within your hand. There, the mainspring power has been restrained and you will be able to proceed with dis-assembly.

Your journey into the world of clock repair requires essential tools The let-down set should at the top of the list. Always minimize the risk of injury by restraining the power of the mainsprings. The letdown key is the safest method of letting down the mainsprings.

My antique clock stopped, what do I do?

Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe mantel clock

An antique clock stopping unexpectedly can be frustrating, especially if it has been running smoothly for years. However, a stopped clock doesn’t always signal a major problem. In many cases, the issue can be resolved with a little troubleshooting and basic maintenance. Whether it’s a cherished family heirloom or a recent addition to your collection, understanding the possible reasons behind its stoppage can help you decide on the best course of action to bring it back to life.

Perhaps you’ve recently acquired a mechanical clock—whether inherited, gifted, purchased at an antique store, bought online, or one you’ve had for a while—and, for no clear reason, it has stopped working.

Categories of Clocks

There are four general categories of clock movements; quartz, electro-mechanical, electric, and mechanical. This post focuses on mechanical clocks, whether antique or vintage and if your mechanical clock has stopped, I may be able to help you get it working again.

Running Time

It may surprise some that mechanical clocks require regular winding. Eight-day clocks need to be wound once a week, while 30-hour clocks require daily winding. 31-day clocks only need winding once a month, and 400-day clocks, also known as anniversary clocks, are wound once a year. Additionally, many German and a small number of American clocks run for 14 days before needing a wind.

Kundo standard size 400 day clock
Kundo Standard 400-day clock winds with a key once per year
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, 14-day time-only clock

Winding a Clock Movement

What does winding a clock actually mean? It means providing enough power to a mechanism that will allow it to run for its designed cycle.

For example for clocks with mainsprings, winding a mainspring implies turning the key until the clock winds no further. Time and strike clocks will have two winding arbours, chiming clocks generally have 3 winding arbours.

Clocks with weights have one, two, or three winding points. Absent the odd exception, a time-only clock will have one winding point, a time-and-strike clock will have two, and a chiming clock will have three. If there are no winding holes on the clock face, it is a weight-driven clock and the weights must be pulled up by hand.

In the case of clocks with mainsprings that provide the motive power for the time, strike, and chimes, wind each arbour until resistance is met and you cannot wind any further.

One key will fit all the arbours except the regulator arbour (on clocks that have this feature) which requires a smaller key. Clocks that have a regulator arbour originally came with a double-ended key; the smaller key is for the regulator.

Clocks generally wind clockwise but it is also common to find winding arbours that must be wound counterclockwise.

Over-winding

The idea of overwinding a clock is a myth. If a clock stops after being fully wound, it typically indicates that dirt, old oil, or grime on the mainspring has caused it to seize. Even if the mainspring, once unseized, has enough power, it still needs cleaning, which requires disassembling the movement and checking for other potential issues.

A clock in good working condition should complete its full cycle, whether that’s 30 hours, 8 days, 14 days, 31 days, or any other duration.

Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows)
Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows). The arbour over the 6 requires a smaller key to regulate the clock

Why Has My Clock Stopped

First and foremost, all clocks require motive power. Winding a clock stores potential energy in the mainspring, which is gradually released over a designed period of time. This energy is regulated by the escapement, a mechanism that controls the release of the energy in small, consistent increments, ensuring the clock keeps accurate time. Weights resting on the bottom of the baseboard will stop a clock and a completely unwound spring-driven clock will not run.

Is the clock in beat?  Put your clock on a level surface. Listen to the tick and the tock of your clock. Try to minimize the sounds in the room you are in so that you can listen closely to its rhythm. It is in beat when its ticks and tocks are even….tick…tock…tick…tock…, and is out of beat when they are uneven, either, tick….. tock or tock tick…… Put another way, there must be an equal amount of time between the ticks and the tocks. When a clock is out of beat, it will not run, or it will run for a short time and stop. A clock’s beat must be regular to work properly.

Is the clock level? There are two ways to put a clock in beat. The first is to tilt the clock sideways, one way or the other, and listen for the beat to even out. When the beat is even, prop the clock to stay tilted that way. If it is a wall clock move the bottom section from side to side till you hear a steady beat. Now it will run in beat but it will obviously not look good.

Adjusting the crutch Adjust the crutch to one side or the other until the beat is even. The crutch is the rod that extends down from the pallets which rock back and forth on the escape wheel. The pendulum rod passes through either a loop (called a crutch loop) or a forked foot at the end of the crutch as indicated in the photo below. Incidentally, that rod needs to be in the middle of the crutch loop and can’t be tight inside the loop nor too loose. The crutch is attached to the pendulum leader which is then attached to a post with a suspension spring. Other mantel clocks require similar adjustment to the crutch and instructions may be provided on a label or a pamphlet that came with the clock. A clock with a balance wheel or lever-type escapement rather than a pendulum will operate on a non-level surface.

American made time and strike
American made time and strike

Have repairs been done recently? Unless you had a friend fix your clock most reputable clock-makers will offer a warranty, typically 6 months to a year. If your clock stops within that time frame, contact the clock-repairer who may offer a few suggestions in the form of adjustments, over the phone before taking it back to the shop. If it still does not work have that person take a look at the clock.

Do you have the correct pendulum? Other than the winding key, it seems to be the item that gets lost the most. If lost or misplaced, ensure you buy a pendulum that is correct for your clock. One too light may mean that it does not run at all, too heavy and the centre of gravity is lowered and the clock might run too slowly. Clock suppliers such as Perrin or Timesavers will have the correct pendulum for your clock.

pendulum bob with adjuster
Pendulum bob with an adjuster for a French time and strike

Something is broken? If there is no resistance when turning the winding key, the mainspring has broken or a click has let go. If the mainspring winds but releases in your hand, the most common cause is a broken or worn click spring. This is a repair that requires removing the movement from its case, taking it apart, and replacing the worn or damaged part. If you are skilled with that kind of repair, go ahead and fix it, if not, a specialist is required.

A loud BANG when you turn the key indicates the mainspring has broken or let go. It may not be as simple as replacing the mainspring. If the mainspring breaks it might have taken out other parts with it such as pinions and gear cogs. This is called collateral damage. An inspection and a full servicing of the movement is the only solution. Occasionally a broken mainspring is the only problem but the broken spring must come out of the barrel. Some movement designs allow the barrel to be removed without disassembling the mechanism. Whether the barrel is removable or not, a correct mainspring must be sourced to replace it and installed in the barrel which is a job for an expert.

The mainspring inside the barrel may also have become unhooked. This could occur if the clock was wound backward or if the hooked end of the mainspring is split or broken. To address this, the clock will need to be disassembled, the spring barrel opened, and the cause of the unhooking identified. In some cases, a replacement mainspring may be necessary.

For time and strike clocks with open mainsprings, the break may be on one mainspring or both. The clock must be completely disassembled, mainsprings replaced, the movement inspected for other issues, reassembled, and tested.

Sessions click, brass spring, and ratchet

Why does my weight-driven clock stop? Ensure that the weights are in their correct location. If it is a new acquisition of a grandfather clock the three weights have a specific location. Look underneath the weight shells for marks indicating their location “L”, left side, “C”, center and “R”, right side. If there are no markings, use a scale to determine the one that is the lightest weight and put that on the left side.

Ridgway grandfather clock

When bringing up the weights to the top of the clock be careful that they are not run past their stops. You should have a full view of the weights on a weight-driven clock once wound.

Antique Ogee clocks and other weight-driven shelf clocks often lack their original weights, as these have been lost or misplaced over time. Eight-day clocks typically have heavier 8 or 9 lb weights while 30-hour clocks have lighter 2 1/2 lb or 3 lb weights. Incorrect weights for these clocks will cause them to stop.

Is the weight cord or the brass cable binding in any way? The cord or cable should be just long enough to accommodate the weights. A cord or cable that is too long will bind while being wound and stop the clock.

Gustav Becker two-weight wall clock requires a winding crank

Some clocks like weight-driven Vienna Regulators can be adjusted by a transverse regulating screw assembly where the crutch inserts into a slot in the pendulum. Turning a screw in one direction or the other will correct the beat.

Final thoughts

In conclusion, if you encounter a unique issue not addressed here, it’s advisable to consult a professional clock repairer or someone with expertise in mechanical clock repairs. Working with mechanical clocks carries a certain level of risk, as the power stored in the mainsprings can cause injury if not handled carefully. On the other hand, weight-driven clocks generally present less risk.

Although this article may not cover every possible scenario, I hope it has provided you with a clearer understanding of your clock’s issue and how to approach its resolution.

Tick Talk Tuesday #16 – I would like to sell my clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

 

GJ writes

“My name is GJ and I live in Lancashire, England.  When my father died I ended up with this clock! It works so we put it up on the hall wall for a while and years later redecorated and the clock no longer has a home, it just does not fit in with the surroundings.  However, somebody will love it, but we don’t know who to contact in order to find someone who would buy it with a view to using it.  Do you have any contacts in England that we could offer it to?  It is a forlorn hope, but we have to try.”

My reply,

“High GJ. Thanks for coming to my blog. What you have is a New Haven American Victorian drop clock (made in USA). It is a time and strike clock which means that it strikes the appropriate time on the hour and strikes once on the half hour. It looks like it has good wood inlay and the dial face is original but you are missing two carved side wings and the original reversed painted glass door which would affect its value. I would keep it for sentimental reasons but it sounds like you are ready to part with it. I do not have any contacts in England but you could try Gumtree, eBay or your local clock-maker.”

GJ writes back.

“Hello again, Ron.  Thank you for your reply.  I will try to find a good home for my clock.  Actually, now it has been dusted it looks a lot better! Thanks again for your information and help.”

 

Arthur Pequegnat Bedford – bringing a handsome mantel clock back to life – Part II

Restored Athur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock

This is Part II of a two part series in which I describe the final finishing of an Arthur Pequegnat Bedford clock case.

In Part I I described the challenges of repairing the clock case and the minor repairs to the movement.

In the first part of the series I also described how I acquired this Arthur Pequegnat mantel/shelf clock during my travels to Quebec this spring.

The red oak veneered clock is complete with pendulum bob, a good label on the inside back of the access panel, coil gong and of course, the signature time and strike Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates.

Nickle-plated plates with brass bushings
Nickle-plated plates with brass bushings

It is the “Bedford” model. Online research informs me that two Bedford models were produced. This one, which is the later version, measures 9 ¾ inches high by 8 ¾ inches wide by 5 ½ inches deep. It has a silvered 6 inch dial with Arabic numerals with no Pequegnat inscription on the bottom of the dial face, spade hands surrounded by a thick brass bezel and concave base moulding. It has a passing ½ hour strike on a coiled gong.

The earlier model has a 5 inch enameled dial with stylized Arabic numerals and Pequegnat inscription on the dial face, spade hands, oak veneered case, a thinner brass bezel and convex base moulding. The case measurements are identical. The time and strike movement differs from the later model by having a ½ hour passing strike on a bell.

If the dial is a replacement, it is a Pequegnat and someone took the trouble to install larger (and correct) spade hands

I initially thought that the larger dial might make this a one-of clock but after working on the case I am inclined to believe that the dial might be a replacement. I observed two sets of screw holes, one for the larger dial and one presumably for a smaller one. A factory switch or perhaps a clock-maker replaced the dial at a later time for whatever reason. After looking at a photo of the Bedford taken at the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario (Canada) you can easily see the smaller dial and thinner bezel.

Bedford clock on display at the Canadian Clock Museum
Bedford clock on display at the Canadian Clock Museum

Arthur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock, assembled, cleaned and working but before case refinishing

I do not think the larger dial overpowers the look of the clock, in fact, it gives it a more contemporary presence. If the dial is a replacement, it is a Pequegnat and someone took the trouble to install correctly sized spade hands. Unfortunately, the previous owner is unaware of the difference.

The task of clamping and gluing the case took several days as each section of the case required attention. And now to the final finish.

Gluing and clamping took time
Gluing and clamping took time

Before the case restoration. Yes, the clock was in sad shape.

Dirty case
Very dirty case with years of grime and no grain visible

After giving the case a good cleaning I applied one thin coat of Minwax red oak stain to hide the bare areas and rough edges. I let the stain sit for 5 minutes and wiped off the excess with a cotton cloth. I allowed the case to thoroughly dry for 24 hours before the first sanding. For the final finish I chose Minwax PolyWipe for two reasons, one, it is simple to apply since it is easily wiped on and secondly, I wanted to avoid the amber tone of a lacquer which might result in concealing the grain. I applied six coats of PolyWipe and used 400 grit emery paper between each coat.

After cleaning, sanding and two coats of PolyWipe this is the result.

PolyWipe applications
After two PolyWipe applications

I am pleased that the grain came up very nicely, reminding me of what it must have looked like many years ago.

Finished clock
Finished clock, after 6 coats of PolyWipe

After six thin coats of PolyWipe the result is a revitalized finish that is durable, attractive and will last for years.

The brass door has me puzzled. What I thought was a broken hinge was actually folded into the bezel and soldered.

7/8 inch hinge is soldered back into the bezel
7/8 inch hinge is soldered back into the bezel

Why? I am reluctant to remove the solder because I risk breaking the glass by bending the retaining tabs. They are in very tight. As it stands the glass door will friction fit onto the dial bezel. Not the best but it will do for now. I will give it a second look, perhaps I can de-solder that hinge without removing the glass.

A project that is well worth the time and effort. It is always satisfying saving an old clock and bringing it back to life.

Tempus Fugit – what you need to know about the worlds fastest growing clock company

Daniel Dakota wall clock, one of Tempus Fugits more popular models

Now for a little tongue in cheek.

The Tempus Fugit Clock Company must be doing exceptionally well. Tempus Fugit clocks are everywhere, online for-sale sites, eBay, Kijiji and the like. Type “Tempus Fugit” in the eBay search box and dozens of wall clocks, grandfather clocks and mantel clocks will pop up.

Not only can the Tempus Fugit clock-makers pump out quality clocks they have also maintained a level of quality that is unmatched in the industry

The other day I found this 32″ clock (next photo) for the paltry sum of $30. What a deal! A truly inexpensive entry point for an exquisitely designed Tempus Fugit clock made by some of the worlds foremost craftsmen that you can add to your collection today.

A Tempus Fugit clock for only $30
A Tempus Fugit clock on an online for-sale site for only $30

Tempus Fugit clock-makers pump out quality clocks and they have also maintained a level of quality that is unmatched in the industry.

The factory is located in Timeville, Canada. I had a chance to visit the factory this spring and was able to converse with the owners, I said to Mr. Tempus and Mr. Fugit, “Your building could use a paint job”, to which Mr Fugit replied, “Don’t worry about it, clock-making is our strength”

Tempus Fugit Clock Co.
Tempus Fugit Clock Co. factory in Timeville Canada

They graciously permitted me to install C and AA batteries in some of the movements on the factory floor. What a thrill! I really got a charge out of it. The 40,000 sq ft 400 sq ft factory floor is abuzz with activity. Placards of inspiration are everywhere such as “Time is on your side”, Time marches on” and “Time Flies”. The company also makes mechanical clocks. Here, a worker has all the movement parts laid out prior to assembly.

Putting it all together at Tempus Fugit
Putting it all together at Tempus Fugit

Gustav Becker and E. Howard might be great names in the clock world but Tempus Fugit always rises above them.

Anyway, back to repairing and restoring clocks. As they say at Tempus Fugit, “Time Flies” ……..or is it “Time Flees”?

What does bushing a clock mean?

Bergeon Bushing Machine

American Sessions time and strike clock showing a gear pivot and the build-up of dirt in the pivot hole

Is your mechanical clock not running as well as it should? Does it stop intermittently or not run at all? There may be a number of issues with the movement and among them pivot wear.

Pivots are the ends of the axles (the horological term is “arbours”) that spin in small holes drilled in the clock plates as the clock runs. They are reduced or turned down end of an arbour. These, along with the holes themselves, can become worn. The pivot hole must be perfectly round and the pivots must have a mirror-like polished surface in order to minimize friction within the train of gears. The two surfaces must be protected and the barrier between the pivot and the pivot hole is clock oil.

A badly worn pivot

A worn pivot or worn pivot hole causes the gear to slowly move away from the pinion and it will eventually stop when the gears no longer mesh properly. A clock that is in need of bushings runs erratically or stops altogether.

If a clock movement is not serviced (cleaned and oiled) routinely there will be wear in the plates of the movement where the pivots come through. If new oil is applied over the old il it will free up abrasive dirt and keep grinding away at the steel and the brass bushing hole. Worn pivots are typically found in clocks that have been oiled over and over again and not properly cleaned. The term “properly cleaned” implies disassembly of the movement, cleaning the parts, addressing wear issues, reassembly, and testing.

Occasionally you will see punch marks made to close the pivot hole. Though not an accepted practice today this was a common method of repair employed by past clock repairers

Pivots must be cleaned and polished periodically to ensure they can turn freely within the hole in the clock movement plate. A worn pivot hole is easy to observe as they are oval-shaped instead of round as you can see in the next photo.

Close-up of bushing wear
Close-up of oval-shaped bushing wear. The circle shows what the hole should look like

The process of bushing consists of replacing the worn brass around the pivot so that the hole is round again. A new hole is drilled into the plate. A new, properly sized, the bushing is punched or pushed into the plate using a bushing machine such as a Bergeon Bushing Machine.

Some clock-makers prefer to hand bush using reamers and smoothing broaches and the results are entirely acceptable but a machine simplifies the task.

Badly worn pivots which are made of steel must be replaced with new pivot. This is called re-pivoting in clock circles. A watch or clock lathe is used for re-pivoting which involves drilling into the end of the wheel arbour with a high-speed bit and installing a new pivot made from pivot wire.

Drilling a hole with Bergeon bushing machine
Drilling a hole with a cutting reamer

Punching the bushing home
Punching the bushing home using a Bergeon Bushing machine

Using a micrometer to check pivot
Using a micrometer to check pivot diameter

Minor wear is tolerable and expected over the life of a clock and can be addressed by careful filing, polishing, and burnishing.

X marks pivot holes that need to be bushed
X marks pivot holes that must be bushed

Clock pivot oil
Clock pivot oil

Looks like a large pivot hole but actally punched close to the hole
Punch marks near the pivot hole. This was a common practice of past clock repairers

Bushing is an integral part of movement servicing. Some clocks that have been well-cared for may have minimal wear and may not require new bushings while others, through neglect or improper servicing, may require many bushings.

Bushing a clock is one of the most fundamental tasks of the clock-maker. Pivot and bushing work performed correctly will extend the life of a clock movement while ensuring that a clock runs reliably for years.

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