Compact Tools to Assist in Clock Repair

It’s the little things that count in life. While this expression holds true in many aspects of our lives, it is equally true when it comes to antique and vintage clock repair.

This article highlights tools that can be invaluable for clock repair. Though not strictly essential, once you start using them, you’ll likely wonder how you ever managed without them. Additionally, these tools are relatively inexpensive and even more affordable on the used market.

Here is a list in no order of importance. Some of these items you will no doubt find more useful than others.

Magnetic flashlights

These tools are very handy for probing the dark corners of a clock case or troubleshooting the internals of a movement. They simply magnetically attach to the shaft of a screwdriver. The only drawback is the odd-sized batteries, which can sometimes be difficult to find.

The one on the left has two LED lights and turns on automatically when attached, meaning the battery drains if you forget to remove it. The one on the right, with one LED, has a push-button on/off switch. I like the one on the right.

This one is interesting because it features a telescoping magnet attachment, which is useful for illuminating an area when trying to retrieve a steel screw in a clock case, for example. It also uses readily available CR2025 button batteries.

Pivot Locator

I’ve seen a few different designs for pivot locators, but I find this one to be excellent for nudging and pulling those tiny pivots into place. If you’ve ever broken a pivot while reassembling a movement, you know how challenging it can be to fit a new pivot into an arbour. This little tool will avoid that agony.

And a closer view.

Movement Holder

I also have a set of four legs, otherwise called clamp assembly supports, that screw into the bottom plate when working on a movement, but I find they mar the corners of the movement and leave unsightly marks. A piece of 4-inch pipe cut from a plastic water or sewage pipe works perfectly.

Accessory Containers

A dollar store is a great place to find all sorts of practical containers that are both useful and very affordable. This one, with separate compartments, is ideal for storing an assortment of different-sized screws.

For storing brass and steel clock pins a camera filter container is perfect.

For storing all kinds of tiny items these containers can be purchased for a dollar or so per dozen.

Crucial for separating parts when disassembling a movement, they are also useful for preventing parts from going astray. Additionally, they are stackable and come in various sizes with the smallest size shown below.

Punch

I certainly do not advocate punching a clock plate to close a pivot hole, but a punch is useful for many other tasks. such as marking a spot for drilling, setting a reference point, or lightly shaping the edges of a part.

Precision Screwdrivers

They come in a multitude of sizes and head types, making them very useful for working with small screws on clock movements.

Slotted Screw Holding Driver

It’s called a driver, but its real purpose is to guide the screw into place.

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve dropped a screw into a case and spent time trying to fish it out while reinstalling a movement.

When I saw these, it felt like a miracle. While they can’t drive the screw all the way in, they allow you to turn it a couple of times, making it ready for a screwdriver to finish the job.

Compact tools and accessories may not be essential for clock repair, but they certainly make the work much easier and more efficient, offering valuable benefits. These tools are not only affordable but most are readily available, making them accessible for anyone looking to enhance their clock repair experience.

Whether you’re a seasoned professional or a hobbyist, investing in these practical, easy-to-find tools can make your work much less frustrating, helping you achieve better results with greater ease and fewer obstacles.

February 18, 2025 2

Best clock moments of 2018

2018 was a successful year for my horological hobby in many ways. I met interesting people with fascinating stories, discovered new antique clock sources and had fun along the way. The best clock moments, in no specific order, during 2018 were:

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton

Finding an Arthur Pequegnat Moncton double-spring time-only wall clock was a big plus. This clock has been on my wish list for 5 years and I finally found one in excellent condition and the price was within my budget. This brings to seven Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my collection.

Seth Thomas #2 Regulator

The Seth Thomas #2 has been on my wish list for 5 years as well. This single weight-driven, time-only wall clock is from the 1920s. It is Mahogany veneered and like the Moncton is in very good condition. It is now hung in my front entry way.

August Schatz & Sohne W3 shelf clock

In August 2017 I asked for help finding a case for my Schatz movement after locating it in an antique store. Little did I realize that I would eventually have that case.

This is the result when you ask a 90 year old cabinet maker and joiner from Virginia to make a case for an August Schatz & Sohne W3 triple chime movement.

A special thanks to all those who commented on articles and those who send me letters concerning their particular clock problem

Selling clocks

I sold two clocks this year not because I did not like or appreciate them but I must pare down my collection to allow space for new acquisitions. The Juba Schatz “bim-bam” time and strike mantel clock was one

and the other, a Mauthe Westminster mantel clock.

Acquiring new tools

Aside from small hand tools acquired this year, the most significant purchase was an L&R Ultrasonic cleaner which does a terrific job of cleaning clock parts.

Setting up and organizing my workshop

I managed to create space in my basement for an area to work on clock cases and other related woodworking tasks. A new drill press is on the far bench to the left.

Cuckoo clock

My first cuckoo clock was a gift from my cousin this past year. It is in good working order but it will need a new set of bellows which will be one of my summer projects in 2019.

Antiquevintageclock.com

I am pleased that my blog has also been very successful with over 93,000+ total views. I would like to thank all those who commented on articles and those who sent me letters concerning their particular clock issue.

I look forward to this new year and I am sure that 2019 will be an equally successful year as I further my horological pursuits.

January 3, 2019

Gene’s Movement Test Stand extension for clock movements

Every horologist should have sturdy clock stand for testing clock movements.

If you have Gene’s movement test stand to test your clock movements you have chosen one of the best stands for clock repair. It is well-built, adjustable and simple to use. It is one of the best test stands I have ever used but it is not perfect.

While Gene’s test stand is excellent for mantel and shelf clock movement testing it is not ideal for most wall clock testing. I was tired of propping the movement stand up with books and pieces of wood to gain height so I decided to address the problem by constructing a cheap and effective extension for testing those movements with long pendulum rods which includes many wall clocks that I enjoy working on. I initially thought about building an entirely new stand for wall clock movements but building an extension to Gene’s stand made much more sense.

Although this extension addresses a shortcoming of Gene’s movement test stand, should you require something taller for grandfather clock movements you can easily modify this one to suit your needs. I do not work on grandfather clocks; the size is right for my purposes.

Frame constructed of plywood and spruce board

The extension consists of four legs, three of which are braced approximately midway on each side and the back with a lower brace along the bottom front. It has a plywood platform on the top where Gene’s stand rests.

Gene's stand is mounted atop the frame — Gene’s stand is mounted atop the extension

The extension has no adjustments although leveling can still be achieved on the Gene’s stand by means of the 4 adjustment bolts on the bottom part of the stand

A clamp (or 2) secures the stand to the extension

The extension has no adjustments although leveling can still be achieved on the Gene’s stand by means of the 4 adjustment bolts on the bottom part of the stand. The legs are 1/2″ by 1 1/4″ spruce. The extension measures 18 1/4″ high by 9″ deep by 9 1/4″ wide. I used carpenter’s glue and for extra rigidity and 1″ screws (pre-drilled holes) to secure all the pieces together. I sanded it and applied a clear topcoat to give it an attractive finish. This is a project that took me less than two hours.

Simply attach the extension when you need it. A clamp or two can be used to secure the stand to the extension but I might design something more effective later.

You need some form of stand to test movements and if you do not have one, I highly recommend Gene’s Movement stand. The extension makes it even better. Let me know what you think.

November 10, 2018

The ultrasonic cleaner – an essential cleaning tool for clock repair

The ultrasonic cleaner is an essential tool for clock repair. Yes, you can get along just fine without one but if you have some spare cash you will not be disappointed.

Ultrasonic cleaning machines are used by a wide variety of professionals where cleanliness is of paramount concern. They are used in many industries including Dental/Medical, Industrial, Firearm, Jewelry/Watch/Clock, automotive repair and so on.

For the past two years I have been struggling with a Harbor Freight “special”, a light duty machine that does a less than average job of cleaning clock parts. It was inexpensive and I thought it was all I needed. Now I am done with it. It was frustrating to use, the cleaning cycle was a short 6 minutes, the heater produced lukewarm water, there was no drain, the basket was made of plastic and at the end of the day it did a poor job of cleaning clock parts. It was time for a replacement.

My research included visiting manufacturers websites, looking at a myriad of models on on eBay and Amazon and seeking the opinions of clock enthusiasts on Facebook and the NAWCC forum site. There are a plethora of Chinese made machines at very attractive prices. They offer powerful heaters, large basket capacity and the ability to drain the solution from the tank. I have no idea of the reputation of these companies and I could have just as well bought a machine which would fail on delivery or fail in 6 months to a year. I would then be faced with spending another few hundred dollars to replace it. I also dreaded the thought of chasing after a Chinese company for warranty work.

I found L&R Ultrasonics. They have been making commercial quality ultrasonic cleaners for a number of years. They offer a range of sizes. I chose one near the bottom of the line, the Q140. The Q140 is approximately 10 inches long by 6 1/2 inches wide by 8 1/2 inches deep. It has a .85 gallons capacity (3.2L). It has a heater, a mechanical timer that sounds like an egg timer, a drain and it operates at 43kHz. It is made in the USA and costs twice as much as a comparable Chinese cleaner. It is a robust, well made machine backed by a 2 1/2 year warranty and something that should give me piece of mind for many years. A little money can be saved by buying an ultrasonic cleaner without a heater and preheating your solution in a microwave oven but the heater is a nice bonus.

One negative, it did not come with a stainless steel wire basket which I had to purchase separately from another supplier. The L&R basket was over CDN200! For a fifth of the price I opted for an after market stainless steel mesh basket by Cambridge Time that is designed to fit the Q140.

Enough room for clock plates and the gears — Enough room for Gilbert time and strike plates plus the gears

Back of unit showing fuse, drain hose and clip for plastic hose — Back of unit showing fuse, drain hose and clip for plastic drain hose

Overall, it is well designed, quiet (reasonably), portable, simple to use and well constructed. It uses a basic 60 minute mechanical timer and a simple on-off switch for the heater. One downside is that it is smallish and will accommodate only one movement.

Can you get along without one? Yes, but it makes life so much easier.

November 6, 2018

What does bushing a clock mean?

American Sessions time and strike clock showing a gear pivot and the build-up of dirt in the pivot hole

Is your mechanical clock not running as well as it should? Does it stop intermittently or not run at all? There may be a number of issues with the movement and among them pivot wear.

Pivots are the ends of the axles (the horological term is “arbours”) that spin in small holes drilled in the clock plates as the clock runs. They are reduced or turned down end of an arbour. These, along with the holes themselves, can become worn. The pivot hole must be perfectly round and the pivots must have a mirror-like polished surface in order to minimize friction within the train of gears. The two surfaces must be protected and the barrier between the pivot and the pivot hole is clock oil.

A worn pivot or worn pivot hole causes the gear to slowly move away from the pinion and it will eventually stop when the gears no longer mesh properly. A clock that is in need of bushings runs erratically or stops altogether.

If a clock movement is not serviced (cleaned and oiled) routinely there will be wear in the plates of the movement where the pivots come through. If new oil is applied over the old il it will free up abrasive dirt and keep grinding away at the steel and the brass bushing hole. Worn pivots are typically found in clocks that have been oiled over and over again and not properly cleaned. The term “properly cleaned” implies disassembly of the movement, cleaning the parts, addressing wear issues, reassembly, and testing.

Occasionally you will see punch marks made to close the pivot hole. Though not an accepted practice today this was a common method of repair employed by past clock repairers

Pivots must be cleaned and polished periodically to ensure they can turn freely within the hole in the clock movement plate. A worn pivot hole is easy to observe as they are oval-shaped instead of round as you can see in the next photo.

Close-up of bushing wear — Close-up of oval-shaped bushing wear. The circle shows what the hole should look like

The process of bushing consists of replacing the worn brass around the pivot so that the hole is round again. A new hole is drilled into the plate. A new, properly sized, the bushing is punched or pushed into the plate using a bushing machine such as a Bergeon Bushing Machine.

Some clock-makers prefer to hand bush using reamers and smoothing broaches and the results are entirely acceptable but a machine simplifies the task.

Badly worn pivots which are made of steel must be replaced with new pivot. This is called re-pivoting in clock circles. A watch or clock lathe is used for re-pivoting which involves drilling into the end of the wheel arbour with a high-speed bit and installing a new pivot made from pivot wire.

Drilling a hole with Bergeon bushing machine — Drilling a hole with a cutting reamer

Punching the bushing home using a Bergeon Bushing machine

Using a micrometer to check pivot diameter

Minor wear is tolerable and expected over the life of a clock and can be addressed by careful filing, polishing, and burnishing.

X marks pivot holes that need to be bushed — X marks pivot holes that must be bushed

Looks like a large pivot hole but actally punched close to the hole — Punch marks near the pivot hole. This was a common practice of past clock repairers

Bushing is an integral part of movement servicing. Some clocks that have been well-cared for may have minimal wear and may not require new bushings while others, through neglect or improper servicing, may require many bushings.

Bushing a clock is one of the most fundamental tasks of the clock-maker. Pivot and bushing work performed correctly will extend the life of a clock movement while ensuring that a clock runs reliably for years.

July 20, 2018

Waterbury 30 hour Ogee clock – servicing Part II

Waterbury OG clock — 30-hour Waterbury Ogee with a beautiful veneered case

This 30 hour Ogee clock was purchased in the fall of 2017. I was eager to add this clock to my collection as it is the one particular style of clock that I do not have. From my research on Waterbury clocks I determined that it was made in or around 1870.

I decided to turn the worn trundles inward and seal them with Permatex (medium strength thread-locker) so they are fixed rather than rolling; not ideal but reversible

While the case is in remarkable condition for the age of the clock the movement has suffered the ravages of time.

Simple 30 hour movement, top plate removed

Testing over the course of a day or so revealed that clock would not run for more than a few minutes. The movement was taken out of its case and inspected to determine what needed to be done to get it to running condition.

I expected punch marks and there were a number. In the old days clock-makers would attempt to address pivot wear by closing the pivot holes with a stake or punch. Not ideal but a common practice. Bushing work was definitely required. The pivots, on the other hand, were in very good shape and polished up nicely.

My first task was to address the bushings. Ten bushings were installed, 5 on each plate. The front bushing work included the escape wheel bridge, always a challenging spot to bush. Next I addressed the other serious wear issue – the trundles on all of the lantern pinions.

The trundles on the lantern pinions were in bad shape as you can see in the photo above. The wear seen here was identical on all 4 lantern pinions. Notched trundles were not what I expected.

The trundle work was certainly the most interesting part of the repair. My experience with lantern pinion work is zero. After some research the method I selected was to hand drill through the top shroud to release the worn trundles.

Drilling through the shroud to release worn trundles; I used a smaller bit than the one pictured here

After releasing the worn trundles I used 1.10mm pivot wire which is ideal for this purpose and matched the worn trundles precisely.

Test fitting of pivot wire before the wire is cut to proper length

I began with the fly. I drilled into the top shroud. I then cut 1.10mm pivot wire into the required lengths then rounded the ends with a cut-off disc on a Dremel. After the fly was completed I addressed two more lantern pinions in the same way. I staked the shroud ends to seal the trundles inside.

With three done the escape wheel lantern pinion was next and that is when I ran into a snag. The escape wheel shroud is reversed (see photo below), so I cannot drill into the top shroud without a lot of guess work. Using needle nose pliers I decided to turn the worn trundles inward and seal them with Permatex (medium strength thread-locker) so they are fixed rather than rolling. This is not ideal but it is reversible.

There does not appear to be a definitive answer as to whether the trundles should be free-moving or fixed although I suppose they are designed to roll with the gear teeth. At some future point the trundles on this wheel will need to be replaced.

The clock did not come with a pendulum bob so, a new one was attached. The suspension spring and leader was replaced to address a crimped spring that resulted in a wobbling pendulum bob. I used .09mm suspension spring in the correct length. The clock now runs well and it has completed a number of 30-hour cycles.

I suspect that this will be a clock that will not be run daily, the inevitable hassle of constantly winding a 30 hour clock but I am pleased that it is back in running order and I will ensure that is runs on special occasions.

January 2, 2018

So you want to fix a mechanical clock – Part I – a beginner’s toolkit

Tools are essential for clock repair because they enable precision and accuracy, which are critical when working with delicate mechanisms and intricate components. Let’s identify the key reasons.

Antique and vintage clocks can lose significant value if repaired improperly. Using the right tools minimizes the risk of damage, preserving their historical and monetary worth. The right tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, and tweezers, allow you to handle small parts without causing damage. Specialized tools ensure components are handled carefully and correctly.

Proper tools make the repair process faster and more straightforward. For beginners, having the right tools helps build confidence and competence. They allow you to focus on understanding clock mechanisms without being hindered by improper equipment.

This article will describe some of the tools required to tackle the repair and/or cleaning of mechanical clocks.

Based on years of clock repair experience, I recommend the following essential tools for any beginner’s toolkit. While some of these tools can be sourced from your local hardware store, specialty items will need to be ordered from clock supply companies such as Timesavers (USA), Perrin (Canada), or Meadows and Passmore (UK).

Whenever possible, avoid purchasing tools from craft shops, as their prices are often significantly higher. They are ideal for paint and quality paintbrushes but they tend to charge much higher prices for general-purpose tools. A ball peen hammer bought at a hardware store, for instance, costs half as much as one found in a craft shop.

A suggested list of items

Keys: clock keys come in many different sizes. You must use the correct key for the winding arbours of your clock. The pronged keys in the photo below will fit a multitude of arbours.

Magnifier: They are available in various strengths and allow a much closer view of your work.

Work light: Illuminates your work, this one articulates and has a magnifier. I have since replaced this light with an LED one. The lamp burnt out and the cost of the fluorescent lamp was more than the entire lamp. Plus the new LED lamp has light temperature and intensity controls.

Pliers: A variety of pliers to hold onto your work, release taper pins, tighten nuts, and cut wires. The green handle pliers are non-serrated (flat-nose).

Hammers: A ball peen hammer is very useful (not pictured). The craft clip holder is useful for steadying items that are to be soldered.

Files: Variety of sizes to help shape or file down anything on a movement. Avoid inexpensive Chinses files and spend a little more on quality ones.

Tweezers: Getting into tight situations, grabbing small parts, and positioning parts into place are typical uses for tweezers

Level: To find the correct beat the movement (clock) must be level.

Spring clamps: To restrain the power of the mainspring. The flat clamp (upper right) is for those mainsprings which do not leave a lot of working room. Otherwise, the other round clamps are good for most applications. I prefer the flat clamps.

Screwdrivers: Always handy to remove movements from cases, loosen bolts, and pry parts.

Letdown set: Before working on a movement the mainsprings must be let down or restrained in their clamps. The letdown key is the safest method of letting down the mainsprings. Inserts cover most arbour sizes.

Hand reamers and broaches (cutting and smoothing): For bushing clocks when you cannot afford the luxury of a bushing machine. Cutting and smoothing broaches are useful for enlarging a new bushing when tight tolerances are required. They come in assorted sizes.

Cotton swabs: A variety of cleaning uses.

Clock oil: Once the movement is apart and cleaned it must be re-assembled and then oiled before use. The oil, whether it is conventional or synthetic, must be specifically designed for a clock movement.

Toothpicks: For cleaning and “pegging out” bushings on a movement

Clock stand: Once the movement has been re-assembled it is tested outside the case for a short period. Gene’s movement stand is a fully adjustable test stand.

Clock movement stand — _{Gene’s clock movement stand}

For those handy with a hammer and saw a stand can be made at home with whatever lumber is at hand.

Testing the Kienzle movement on a makeshift test stand — _{Testing a movement on a home-built test stand}

Camera: At every part of the process a digital camera can record critical stages in assembling and disassembling a movement. I use a 50mm macro lens for close work. A cellphone is a perfectly acceptable alternative but one with good macro capabilities is preferred.

Electronic Caliper: Indispensable for measuring the thickness of anything be it springs, pivots, plates, and so on. Available at a clock supply house or save a little money and buy the same tool from a retail outlet such as Canadian Tire in Canada.

Pivot locator: It is an excellent tool for aligning pivots with their holes during assembly.

Build your set of tools little by little to spread the cost. You may already have some of the items I’ve mentioned but buy what you need when you need it. As for those specialized tools, broaches for example, it pays to spend a little extra for better quality.

These are the tools you require to start your journey into clock repair. If you have a tool (or tools) you feel is indispensable for the beginning clock-maker please let me know.

In Part II I will describe tools for those who would wish to advance their skills in clock repair.

October 29, 2017

Magnetic flashlights

Pivot Locator

Movement Holder

Accessory Containers

Punch

Precision Screwdrivers

Slotted Screw Holding Driver

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A special thanks to all those who commented on articles and those who send me letters concerning their particular clock problem

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The extension has no adjustments although leveling can still be achieved on the Gene’s stand by means of the 4 adjustment bolts on the bottom part of the stand

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Occasionally you will see punch marks made to close the pivot hole. Though not an accepted practice today this was a common method of repair employed by past clock repairers

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I decided to turn the worn trundles inward and seal them with Permatex (medium strength thread-locker) so they are fixed rather than rolling; not ideal but reversible

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A suggested list of items

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