Tag: clock movement

Restoring the Balance of a Mauthe Horse Crown Vienna Style Wall Clock

Some clocks have a way of drawing you in immediately, and this Vienna-style wall clock made by Friedrich Mauthe was one of those pieces. The moment I saw it, I knew it had presence—it becomes part of the room.

With its rich walnut case, turned columns, and the distinctive horse finial crowning the top pediment, the clock reflects the late nineteenth-century taste for decorative wall regulators. These clocks borrowed heavily from the famous Vienna regulators but were produced by German makers for a wider market.

When I purchased the clock, I inspected it carefully enough, and everything appeared to be intact. It was not until I had it safely home and hanging on the wall that something seemed slightly off.

The clock didn’t quite look balanced.

At first glance, it was difficult to say exactly why, but the longer I looked at it, the more obvious it became. A closer inspection of the lower portion of the case revealed the problem: one of the decorative finials at the base was missing. There was clear evidence that a piece had once been there.

The likely explanation came from the seller when I contacted them later on. At some point in the clock’s journey from Germany to Canada, the lower finial had been snapped off so the case could fit inside a suitcase. Whether the piece was discarded or simply lost along the way remains a mystery.

Mauthe "horse crown" wall clock

Fortunately, aside from this small detail, the clock remained remarkably original.

Still, once you notice something like that, it becomes impossible to ignore.

Finding a Suitable Replacement

My first thought was that replacing the missing trim piece should not be too difficult. There are a number of suppliers that specialize in clock case hardware and decorative parts, and I began browsing through the usual clock parts sites in search of something that would suit the design.

There were several options, but eventually I chose the finial you see here.

It is flat on one side and comes without a peg, making it adaptable for installation on a variety of cases. Most importantly, its shape complements the overall style of the clock without drawing attention to itself.

When restoring an antique clock, the goal is often to restore balance rather than create perfection. The replacement does not have to be an exact replica as long as it harmonizes with the original design.

In this case, I think it strikes the right balance. It may not be precisely what the factory installed over a century ago, but it looks convincing enough that even a careful observer might assume it has always been there.

Matching the Finish

The trim piece arrived unfinished, which meant it needed to be toned to match the rest of the case. Examining the clock more closely, it appeared to retain its original walnut finish.

With that in mind, I applied several coats of stain until the color blended naturally with the surrounding woodwork. Matching old finishes can be tricky, but patience—and a few test coats—usually brings things into alignment.

Once installed, the difference was immediately noticeable, and balance has been restored.

Restoring the Clock’s Symmetry

Seen from a couple of meters away, the clock now looks exactly as it should. The case once again has the visual symmetry that its original designers intended.

Small decorative elements like these finials may seem minor, but they play an important role in the overall composition of a clock case. Remove one piece and the entire design can feel subtly incomplete.

The “Horse Crown” Vienna Case Style

The decorative horse finial that crowns the pediment is what collectors often refer to as a “Horse Crown” Vienna-style case. While traditional Vienna regulators made in Austria tended to be somewhat restrained in their ornamentation, German makers frequently added dramatic sculptural elements to appeal to export markets.

The rearing horse was a popular motif at the turn of the twentieth century and symbolized strength, motion, and vitality—fitting imagery for a mechanical clock. Mounted above the pediment, the figure gives the clock a distinctive silhouette and immediately draws the eye upward.

Combined with the turned columns, carved mask, and stepped base, the horse crown transforms what would otherwise be a fairly conventional wall regulator into a much more decorative statement piece. Often, you will find clocks offered for sale missing this critical decorative piece.

The movement inside the clock was produced by Friedrich Mauthe, one of the largest German clock manufacturers of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Founded in 1844 in Schwenningen in the Black Forest region, the company became known for producing reliable, well-engineered movements that were exported throughout Europe and North America.

The Mauthe Movement

Many Vienna-style clocks from German makers used spring-driven two-train movements with time and strike trains mounted between brass plates. These movements typically strike the hour and half-hour on a coiled gong and are known for their durability and relatively straightforward construction.

Clocks like this were produced in large numbers between about 1890 and the early 1920s, when Vienna-style regulators were still very popular in homes and offices.

A Small Piece, A Complete Clock

From a distance of a few meters, the clock now looks exactly as it should have all along. The case once again has the visual balance that its designer intended.

The replacement may not be identical to the original piece that once adorned the base, but it blends naturally with the rest of the case. Unless someone knows exactly where to look, they would likely never suspect that a small piece of trim once disappeared somewhere along the clock’s long journey from Germany to Canada.

And like many antique clocks, it carries with it not only the passage of time—but a bit of history and a story of its own.

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Ten Years Later: An Odd Strike Issue in a Gustav Becker P27 Movement

Gustav Becker 2 weight clock

In 2016, my wife gifted me a two-weight Gustav Becker regulator wall clock. It was a much-appreciated gift, and I spent many hours restoring it, as it had been sold as a “project clock.” The case certainly had its issues, but the most challenging problems lay in the movement itself.

At the time, I was not familiar with Gustav Becker movements, and it did not immediately occur to me that several key components were missing—almost as if a previous owner had harvested parts for another clock. One example was the absence of the star wheel. I contacted the seller, who kindly sent several replacement parts, including a star wheel. Unfortunately, it did not fit.

Missing star wheel, which should be just below the minute wheel

It was then that I learned Gustav Becker had made design changes to these movements over time, meaning that not all parts are interchangeable. It appears the star wheel was sourced from a later model.

That led me to source a replacement movement, which I was able to obtain through an eBay seller. The price was more reasonable than I expected, and the movement arrived intact. Initially, I thought I could harvest parts from it for the original movement; however, as I had already learned with the star wheel, some parts did not fit.

Using replacement parts in antique clocks presents a number of challenges beyond simple fit and function. Even when parts appear correct, subtle differences in design, dimensions, or period manufacturing can affect performance and reliability.

From a collector’s perspective, non-original or mismatched components may also impact a clock’s historical authenticity and, in some cases, its market value. For the restorer, this often requires balancing mechanical integrity and long-term usability against the desire to preserve originality as much as possible. Of course, to the casual observer, the clock appears original.

I ultimately decided to abandon the 1902 movement and use the 1918 P27 one instead. The 1918 movement has been running flawlessly for the past 9 plus year and that is why the issue I am describing in this post surprises me. Or, should it!

Most people would be inclined to dismiss the problem by simply restarting the clock, which is what I initially did, but several hours later, the clock stopped again.

The problem is this: the warning lever, which drops into the warning wheel to stop the strike in warning, seems to freeze intermittently. For proper function, the strike release lever is lifted by the minute wheel pin to release the warning lever. I believe the issue occurs at the stop-wheel pin, where it appears to bind or stick. When I manually lift the warning lever to release the stop wheel, the strike train will run for a while, then stick again.

When I disassembled the movement, I checked for broken or bent teeth, bent pins, and the general condition of the pivots. Everything appeared to look good. However, given that the clock has been running for a long period, the issue now seems more consistent with wear than with a sudden component failure.

One issue could be that excess endshake may be allowing the stop wheel to move fore and aft, altering how the stop pin engages the warning lever. Additionally, many weight-driven warning levers rely purely on gravity for return; any increase in friction can cause the lever to hesitate or become caught on the edge of the pin. For these reasons, I believe this is a general wear issue rather than a broken or failed component.

By way of comparison, the average American-made movement produced a century ago could often continue to run reasonably well despite significant wear, whereas German movements—built with tiny pivots and very close tolerances—tend to be far more sensitive to wear, dirt, and minor loss of power. This difference should perhaps not be unexpected.

The movement is currently disassembled and, after many years of service, likely requires bushing work.

In short, the symptoms point to accumulated wear rather than a specific failed part. The movement will therefore receive full bushing work where needed, followed by a thorough cleaning, reassembly, and testing on the stand. Only once the strike operates consistently and reliably under full weight will the movement be returned to the case.

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Tick Talk Tuesday #58 | A Beautiful, But Not Perfect Clock

Tick Talk Tuesday

I receive a number of letters each day from clock enthusiasts, first-time buyers, and people who have inherited family clocks, among others. Typically, I share these letters—while keeping the writer’s identity and location confidential. However, in this case, I’ve chosen not to publish the letter, as doing so would reveal both the sender’s identity and the name of a specific clock repair shop.

I received a letter from DV from Australia who wanted to know more about a recent clock purchase.

DV Writes

We recently picked up a Mauthe Wall clock from an auction and were hoping you could help date and value it. I have attached some photos, but because of the signature, I was thinking around 1946 in accordance with the different trademarks.

Regards,

Mauthe wall clock

My Reply

What a wonderful clock, DV. I really like the lower glass treatment. The crown is stately, if overdone; such was the style at the time. The hunting motif is interesting, though usually it is carried over to the pendulum as well. The trademark name on the movement is Mauthe, a prolific and respected clockmaker in the early 20th century. Mauthe had many trademark styles, but the one on your clock was used after 1911, so, between 1911 and 1914, I would say. 

An ornate pendulum but possibly a mismatch

Clocks of this type are often missing pieces such as the finials, hands, and other case parts, though yours appears to be intact. It is a half-hour strike clock. Everything appears “nearly” correct, including the winding key. Usually, clocks like this will sell in the $300 to $500 range, but because it is original and unique, I would value it between $500 and $1000.

Clock face depicting a hunting motif

The numbers on the left of the movement are pendulum length in cms and beats per minute. On the right is an inventory number.

Two small negatives are the beat scale, which should be attached below the pendulum, at or near the bottom, and a possible mismatch of the pendulum to the clock dial. If the pendulum is a mismatch, that would certainly affect the value. 

Of course, the clock movement is very dirty and needs an overhaul to run reliably in the future.

DV Writes Back

Thank you so much for the information. We just love it and it has found a wall in our house. 

I definitely see that the pendulum is a mismatch, now that you point it out, as it doesn’t make any sense to have a hunting theme mixed with signs of love.

The beat scale looks to be in its original location, as I can not find a hole at the bottom of the case. I guess it could be a reused case; this is a different movement, as the movement is very hard to move on the bracket.

Regardless, we love it and are grateful for the information you have been able to provide.

Have a good day/night, as it is only 0640 am here in Western Australia.

Regards,

Author’s Note

The beat scale appears to be a later addition, likely installed by someone unfamiliar with its proper placement within the case. While it is quite possible that the clock is a marriage, beauty remains in the eye of the beholder. Despite its imperfections, it is sure to be valued by its owner.

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Challenges of DIY Antique Clock Repair with Minimal Tools | Lessons and Limitations

My collection of wall clocks includes several schoolhouse models and I am continually impressed by their resilience despite their age.

While many of these clocks spent their lives in school rooms, some ended up in commercial establishments and offices, often neglected until they stopped working. I’ve seen clocks with bushing holes so enlarged it’s a miracle they still ran at all.

This particular clock, manufactured by New Haven, boasts a classic design with a twelve-inch Roman Numeral dial and a distinctive short drop style.

The softwood case is veneered in Rosewood veneer accents. The clock’s case must have been quite elegant at one time, but now it is showing much wear and tear.

Given the condition of the case, I anticipated that the movement would be just as well-worn.

Let me point out that the servicing is being done under less-than-ideal conditions. I am at our summer cottage with only the basic tools for clock repair, so I must either improvise or skip certain procedures.

Removing the movement

After removing the hour and minute hands, you will find that three screws hold the dial in place. Once these screws are removed, the next step is to take out two movement blocks that secure the movement. This is done by unscrewing the blocks (each held by two wood screws) and then pulling out the movement. Once out the blocks can be removed.

The movement is held by movement blocks

Disassembly and inspection

The first step is to contain the power of the mainspring. Since I did not have access to my standard equipment, I had to improvise. I would normally use a C-clamp to restrain the mainspring, but with none available, I used a stiff piece of copper wire and wrapped it around the mainspring. Not ideal but it works.

Safely restrained mainspring

The movement is in surprisingly good condition.

The top (front) plate is removed

Once the wheels are out it is time to visually inspect the components including the gear teeth, pivots, escape wheel pallets, the condition of the manispring, and lantern pinions.

The parts are laid out for inspection

Before placing the parts into the ultrasonic cleaner, I clean the pivot holes with toothpicks and wipe off any excess dirt and oil. Since I plan to reuse the ultrasonic cleaner several times, putting excessively dirty parts into the cleaning solution can shorten its lifespan.

Opinions vary on whether mainsprings should be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. I believe it’s a matter of judgment. If I am not planning to reuse the cleaning solution (mainspring oil can render the solution unusable) and can thoroughly dry the springs, I have had good results by placing them in the ultrasonic cleaner.

In this situation, I have opted not to clean the mainspring in a solution.

Next is the reassembly of the movement leaving out the main wheel and mainspring. Without tension on the wheels, this is a simple way of determining wear.

Wheels that move laterally suggest enlarged pivot holes. Lateral movement affects the meshing of the gears and with enough wear the gears do not mesh properly and the clock will stop.

Checking for lateral movement

In this movement, the third-wheel front plate shows the most wear. However, it is not worn enough to require a new bushing at this time. If I were in the clock repair business and this was a customer’s clock, I would definitely address the need for a new bushing. This is compounded by the fact that I do not have bushing tools with me.

The pivots exhibit no significant wear, as confirmed by the fingernail test, which revealed no ridges. If you feel any ridges, grooves, or irregularities, it indicates wear on the pivot. A smooth pivot suggests minimal or no wear. Although I had to use a portable power drill for cleaning/polishing, the cleaning process was satisfactory despite it not being the ideal method.

My main challenge is the mainspring. I’m currently working with minimal tools and would like to service the mainspring, but I don’t have a spring winder.

Mainspring and first wheel

I am determined to service the mainspring and will find a solution within the next day or so, reporting on the procedures as I go. In the meantime, this is as far as I can proceed with this movement.

Wrapping up the servicing of a Seth Thomas type 89 movement

Seth Thomas is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history, and they produced a variety of clock movements over the years. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas between 1900 and 1938.

Seth Thomas mantel clock from the 1930s
Seth Thomas mantel or shelf clock

The mantel clock in question features the Type 89 movement. Acquired in the summer of 2023, this clock boasts a simple and straightforward design.

In the first part of this two-part series, I discussed the disappointments I encountered with the clock’s case.

Seth Thomas type 89 movement showing dirt and rust
Seth Thomas type 89 movement, dirty and rusty

The focus then shifted to the disassembly process and my examination of the widely-used Seth Thomas Type 89 clock movement.

My observations highlighted a replaced mainspring on the strike side, the necessity for bushing work, and indications of rust, all of which posed challenges that I committed to addressing in subsequent stages such as cleaning, bushing, oiling, and reassembly.

The focus of this blog post is the completion of servicing of this type 89 clock movement.

The front plate of a type 89 Seth Thomas movement
Front of the type 89 movement before disassembly

Cleaning of the mainsprings

There is always the temptation to do nothing with the mainsprings if they look acceptable. However, cleaning the mainsprings is an essential part of clock servicing. Uncoiling and wiping the dirt and grime from the mainsprings with a cloth is the preferred method, but cleaning them with an ultrasonic cleaner is also an option.

In Part I, I cleaned the mainsprings in my ultrasonic cleaner and provided a rationale for this decision. Before I go any further, I’d like to emphasize a crucial point regarding the cleaning of mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner. This practice is not recommended and should only be considered as a last resort.

While cleaning mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner has little impact on the surfaces or mechanism of the cleaner itself the oil removed from the mainsprings generates a black liquid that contaminates the cleaning solution, rendering it ineffective for future use.

Seth Thomas type 89 mainsprings, note the replacement spring on the right
Seth Thomas type 89 mainsprings, note the replacement spring on the right

Clamps have been applied to secure the mainsprings after oiling, and they’ve been set aside. Now, we move on to the next step: the bushing phase.

The back plate is removed on a type 89 Seth Thomas movement
Backplate removed

Bushing the movement

As the movement is fully disassembled this is the stage where bushing work can be done.
I commend individuals who choose to bush by hand, but personally, It is not for me.

Various systems exist for bushing, with KWM and Bergeon being the two most widely adopted. It’s worth noting that neither system is inherently superior to the other, as preferences tend to vary among enthusiasts. When referring to a “system,” it’s important to understand that the bushings from one system are not interchangeable with those from the other.

That said I use the Bergeon system.

Bergeon 6200 Bushing Machine
Bergeon Bushing Machine

Before bushing, I identify all the locations requiring attention and mark them with a Sharpie. There is no permanent mark as rubbing alcohol will easily remove all traces of ink.

I have an excellent assortment of bushings and have all the required ones for this project.

An assortment of Bergeon bushings, assortment #5488
An assortment of Bergeon bushings, #5488

Using cutters each hole is drilled out and chamfered, that is, removing the sharp edges to allow the pushings to be pressed in smoothly. As I insert each new bushing I test the fit by assembling the wheels to check how freely they move. This allows me to make small adjustments in the event the pivot is too tight in the bushing hole.

Cutting into the bushing hole with Bergeon bushing machine
Cutting into a brass plate

Based on my initial assessment, the bushings for both the front and back plates of the escape wheel were the most worn. The next new bushing is the fourth wheel front plate, the one adjacent to the escape wheel. After three bushings everything looks good and the wear further down the train does not look too bad. A fourth bushing for the fourth wheel should be enough.

A cutting broach is used to enlarge any holes that are a tight fit for a pivot followed by a smoothing broach. To prepare for the wheels to go back in place all bushing holes are cleaned with pegs/toothpicks.

Test fitting the time-side wheels during the bushing process, type 89 Seth Thomas movement
Test fitting the time-side wheels during the bushing process

In the photo above, the plates and gears look shinier after a session with the ultrasonic cleaner. However, it’s important to note that the main goal in clock repair isn’t to make everything as shiny as possible. The focus is on reducing wear and tear. Some dirt and grime on the plates might not come off completely during the cleaning process in every case and it is not something the clock repairer should be overly concerned with.

Back to bushing. There is a little bit of play on the second and third wheels but it is tolerable so, I think I will stop at this point.

Punching a 3.5 mm Bergeon bushing into a clock plate
Punching a bushing into the plate

Were I in the clock repair business I would bush everything on the time train, or the entire movement for that matter, but since I usually inspect movements in my collection every 2-3 years I can address any additional wear at that time.

On to the strike train. In the first article, I mentioned that there was not much wear on the strike side which might be attributable to that side not being wound as often. The only hole that must be addressed is the cam wheel bushing on the front plate. Why this bushing hole is worn much worse than the others is a bit of a mystery.

Okay, all the work is done for a total of five new Bergeon bushings. The holes have been pegged, and the movement is now ready to be reassembled.

The one hiccup encountered during the bushing process was the malfunction of my caliper tool. Fortunately, this isn’t a major problem, as all the Bergeon bushings are uniform at 3.5mm outside diameter, with inside diameters of either 1.4mm or 1.5mm so I knew what size to grab first.

Reassembly

When dealing with American 8-day time and strike movements, there are challenges in configuring the strike mechanism accurately. Occasionally, luck is on my side, and I manage to place the paddle in the deep slot, position the lever in the lowest part of the cam wheel, and align the warning wheel just right on the first attempt.

A useful tip. If the lever is in the lower part of the cam wheel and the paddle is not in the deep slot, simply move the toothed count wheel sideways so that it does not engage the pinon and reposition the wheel till the paddle finds the deep slot.

No luck setting up the strike this time! If the strike train does not lock correctly it will simply keep on running and you will know that soon enough.

The plates can be partially pried open without the risk of all the wheels and levers springing out. Repositioning the warning wheel involves moving the fly aside, carefully extracting the 4th wheel from its pivot hole, and rotating it a quarter turn or so to ensure the warning pin aligns with the stop lever.

Seth Thomas movement on the test stand
Seth Thomas movement on the test stand

A minor issue with the hammer lever surfaced as it was not aligning correctly with the strike pins on the cam wheel. No disassembly of the movement is required for this adjustment. Simply loosen the bottom two nuts by the mainsprings, and the strike hammer can be removed to straighten it. After having been bent multiple times over the years, straightening it out resolved the issue.

Next, the movement is oiled with Keystone clock pivot oil and mounted on a test stand. After a week it is running and striking as it should.

And lastly, my new caliper arrived just as I was concluding the servicing on this clock.

Addendum

To properly configure the strike side, pay attention to the positioning of the levers as pointed out by the arrows.

Seth Thomas movement
ST movement

In the above photo, the lower arrow shows the paddle in the deep slot, and the upper arrow shows the drop lever in the indent of the cam.

Seth Thomas movement
Seth Thomas movement

The upper arrow shows the position of the stop pin on the stop wheel. The lower arrow shows the locking lever.

Disaster strikes a Junghans movement

My apologies for the wordplay in the title. I recently encountered an issue with the striking mechanism in a German clock I’m currently repairing, and in this article, I would like to describe my experience with the repair.

I have to admit it is a frustrating problem that could have been a disaster but I came up with a solution that should work.

Junghans B11 movement on the test stand
Junghans movement on the test stand

The other day I was investigating why the strike side of a Junghans time and strike movement was not functioning correctly and discovered a portion of a small stamped metal part on the exterior of the movement had bent.

I had simply pried too hard when unbending a part of the stamped metal piece and it snapped off, which surprised me. It was a very small piece and when it flew off it was hidden in the clutter of my work area but I was successful in retrieving it. Without that small piece, I was not certain I could make the repair.

Junghans movement in the clock case
The movement in the case

Perhaps I do not have the correct name for the part that bent but let’s call it the strike actuator. The strike actuator when activated lifts a lever to begin the strike process. The activator is attached to the front plate with a small machine screw and is free to move.

On the center arbor is a star cam. The 2 points on the star cam rotate every 30 minutes until a star point pushes the strike actuator to begin the strike sequence. A protruding piece of metal, the contact piece for the star point on the actuator, is the part that broke as I was attempting to unbend it.

Side view of the Junghans time and strike movement
Junghans movement side view

Needless to say, I was crestfallen. What do I do now!

There are essentially three ways of addressing a situation like this.

If I had enough spare parts, the straightforward fix would be to replace the problematic part by taking it from a donor movement. However, whereas I have an ample supply of spare American movements for American clock repairs, unfortunately, I lack spare German movements for parts.

To my knowledge, there is no established source for Junghans clock parts. While clock parts suppliers offer various components for common repairs like escapements and mainsprings, smaller parts like this are typically not readily available in their inventory.

The second solution is to simply have a nonfunctioning strike side but a clock that at the very least, tells the time.

The third alternative involves undertaking a repair, as there appears to be a potential for some sort of restoration. So, I chose to fix it. Although I cannot assure the repair’s absolute success, my intention is to conduct thorough testing to assess its effectiveness.

The Repair

To repair the actuator there is no need to disassemble the movement. One small slotted screw holds it in place. Release the screw and it is ready to be worked on.

To repair the actuator, I used a high-temperature butane torch along with a solder containing a significant amount of silver. It comes in spools and looks much like aluminum wire.

Silver solder is known for its higher melting point compared to other solder types, ensuring greater durability and reducing the risk of weld cracking.

Using hobby alligator clamps, I securely held together the broken piece and the actuator, eliminating the need to handle the pieces manually. After securing them, I dabbed flux in the weld area and then applied heat until the metal changed color and then proceeded to apply the solder.

The stamped metal part (in black) is the actuator and here you can see the successful repair
The stamped metal black part is the actuator and here you can see the successful repair

The challenging part involved aligning the fractured piece onto the actuator. I had to carefully maneuver the clamps to ensure they were positioned correctly for the welding process. The actual soldering was the easy part and literally took seconds.

After a few minutes, I reattached the actuator. I then wound both the strike and time side of the movement and observed the action of the actuator as it went through the strike sequence. It worked!

I plan to keep the movement on the test stand for a couple of weeks or more but after running it for four days the weld has held.

Final thoughts

Tackling the repair of the actuator in this Junghans clock posed its challenges, particularly in aligning and securing the broken piece onto the actuator. Importantly, in any clock servicing, mistakes may occur, but it’s crucial to remember that there are ways to address and rectify many errors. Whether through additional adjustments, alternative techniques, or seeking guidance, the learning process in clock repair involves both successes and challenges.

In the end, the commitment to problem-solving enhances one’s skills, making each repair experience a valuable lesson in the pursuit of clock repair.

Ansonia cottage clock servicing but is the end near for this old clock?

It is a $10 cottage clock my sister picked up in a yard sale several years ago and gave to me after I serviced one of her ogee clocks. There is a label on the inside that says it is made by Ansonia Brass Co. and I would date it to around the early 1880s.

It likely cost no more than 50 cents in its day, the most inexpensive of mechanical clocks but enough to provide for a family of modest needs.

Ansonia cottage clock

Not many survive to this day as they were tossed out when they stopped working. When they do survive they are often in poor condition such as this one. So, it is not surprising that time-only cottage clocks, in very good condition, are sometimes worth more and have greater collector value than larger American time and strike parlour or kitchen clocks.

A very simple time-only movement

So, why is this clock not worth much more than my sister paid for it? It’s had a hard life and has likely been altered in several ways. Original movement? It’s hard to say as there are no markings on it. Well worn? Yes! Pendulum, crutch, the mainspring, pallets; probably replacements. And why the notches on the rear of the access door?

Notches on either side of door

My wife and I love the sound of a ticking clock when we sleep at night. We both find it very soothing. And this one ticks just loud enough to be heard over our window air conditioner.

Unfortunately, the movement cannot quite run its intended 30 hours, and either the mainspring is too weak, or it needs a good cleaning. It is certainly not worth replacing a mainspring that would exceed the value of the clock so, a good cleaning is what it will get.

Time-only movements are the simplest to work on. There is only one train with three wheels plus the escape wheel. It is a matter of letting down the mainspring (a clamp is not necessary) releasing the 4 pins that hold the plates together which exposes the wheels and then taking the parts out.

Bent and worn main wheel teeth

Two issues immediately tell me that this movement does not have a lot of time left. The main wheel and the centre cannon teeth are slightly bent and it is only a matter of time when one or more break. There is not a lot of stress produced by the mainspring on the wheels of a 30-hour clock so it could take years, or perhaps even tomorrow. In any event, a repair of the wheel teeth is just not worth it.

The movement is not especially dirty but there is blackened oil in some of the pivot holes necessitating remediation. A clean in the ultrasonic followed by rinsing the parts, drying them, and then reassembly, oiling, and testing. That is it.

It is clean and I hope it will run 30 hours after the cleaning. Will it last? Well, for as long as the wheel teeth hold out. Let’s hope they do!

Welch marine clock – two issues addressed before servicing the movement

A couple of weeks back I featured this Welch marine style wall clock. A marine clock can also refer to a ships’ bell clock. Ship’s bell time originated in sailing ship days, when the crew of a vessel was divided into Port and Starboard Watches, each on duty four hours, then off four hours. One stroke of the ship’s bell indicates the first half hour of the watch. Then an additional bell is struck for each succeeding half hour for a total of 8 bells.

E. N. Welch marine clock

This is not a ship’s bell clock. However, this is a clock that can be used at sea or in a rail car that simply tells the time. Lever and balance wheel escapement clocks are ideal for ship or train applications because pendulum clocks on do not work in those environments.

The movement was made for the E. N. Welch Clock Co. and I would date it around 1860, so, a 162 year old time-only clock with a balance wheel escapement and a seconds bit running off the second wheel.

The clock was bought at auction earlier this year.

The case is dirty but there are no veneer issues

From the photo above the case appears to be very stressed but under that grime and blackish tarnish could be a jewel of a clock.

Tarnished brass

The exterior of the clock has probably not been cleaned in decades or perhaps not at all.

In the old days folks cared for their furniture with weekly or monthly waxing/wiping/dusting or polishing of brass. That was simply the accepted practice. Items were not designed to be thrown-away and it was common to hold onto possessions as long as practicable.

This little clock has certainly been neglected over the years although there is nothing missing, the movement runs just fine and the open spade hands are likely original. Yes, it is dirty! You might call it patina and many collectors would accept the wear and tear over the years as part of the character of the clock. I take the view that it was meant to be shown and a little bit of intervention is perfectly acceptable.

I don’t have time to service the movement and it can wait till later this year but I was able to clean the case and polish the brass.

The brass took a lot of elbow grease and I am sure I went through half a bottle of Brasso but I like the final result. The case required cleaning with Murphy’s soap and one coat of traditionally prepared shellac.

Before

Since it is a 30-hour clock I doubt I will be running it much and servicing the movement can wait.

After

In the meantime I have an Empire gallery clock that I would like to service for summer cottage duty.

HAC/HAU movement servicing

HAC movement
The arrangement of the gears should be familiar to anyone working on German clocks made in the first quarter of the twentieth century

Bought on an online estate auction site earlier this year, servicing the movement is the subject of this post. Once the movement is serviced, the next step is to address dirt and grime on the case and see what I can do to improve the look of the dial although I am not very hopeful that I can do much to improve it.

For those unfamiliar with the HAC acronym, it stands for Hamburg American Clock Company, a well known German company acquired by Junghans in the late 1920s. It is otherwise known as Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik or HAU. Kind of a strange name for a German clock company but that is how the original investors wanted it named.

I have a number of German clocks including familiar makers such as Junghans, Mauthe, Hermle, Jauch, Gufa, and Gustav Becker but this is the first HAC clock in my collection.

HAC clock
HAC clock circa 1900-1910

Assessment of the movement

It is a typical 14-day German time and count-wheel strike circa 1900 to 1910. It is a robust and almost industrial looking movement and perhaps made early in this series of movements. It could be the type #21 although I can find nothing to confirm it.

The arrangement of the gears should be familiar to anyone working on German clocks made in the first quarter of the twentieth century. This movement has slightly thicker plates, no cutouts, and no extraneous holes and looks sturdy.

HAC clock movement
HAC clock movement, dirty and very tarnished

It has been worked on in the past, the strike side mainspring having been replaced at some point in the clock’s life. The time side has the HAC cross arrows stamped on the mainspring and appears to be original.

HAC clock movement
HAC clock movement, no cutouts

It doesn’t look as though there were issues at the time when the mainspring was replaced, no punch marks around the pivot holes or new bushings, for example, but there are wear issues now and that is to be expected in a 100+ year old clock movement.

In total the movement required 9 bushings, 6 on the strike side and 3 on the time side; 4 on the backplate, and 5 on the front plate. A couple of pivot holes are questionable and exhibit some wear and out of an abundance of caution I bushed them and why not while I have the movement apart. As expected there is more wear on the lower parts of the trains.

The bushing work went as expected. Some of the pivots are quite small and required 2.50mm OD bushings which I don’t often use but have plenty of them in my supply.

Ultrasonic cleaning did not do much to brighten up the brass plates, but to me aesthetics is unimportant. My goal, as always, is simply to have a properly serviced movement that runs well.

Assembly and testing

The movement was assembled and oiled. Both the strike and the time side are running well. There were no particular problems setting up the strike side other than a couple of attempts setting up warning before I got it right.

HAC movement
HAC movement on the test stand

It continued to run well during the next couple of weeks.

It is a 14-day movement but I find with these German movements that winding them once per week ensures more accurate timekeeping.

Junghans bracket clock – servicing the movement

Junghans bracket style clock, tilted to adjust the beat

I posted the first look at this clock a while back.

The Regency style veneered mahogany case of this Junghans time and strike bracket clock is in reasonably good shape save for a small piece of veneer missing on the front right corner and replacement chrome feet which look decidedly out of place.

The movement ran briefly after I got it home but after a short while refused to run despite adjustments. The seller says he had had the clock for two years and never had it running so I was sure it needed a good cleaning. In any event, my plan was to service the movement.

The movement is has a maker’s mark with B11 just below it. This refers to the approximate date of manufacture, the latter part of 1911.

Removing the movement

To remove the movement remove the hands, first the minute and then the hour hand. Open the rear access door to release two thumbscrews screws underneath the movement seat board. Move the gong assembly aside (or take it out completely by releasing a screw on the bottom of the case) and remove the works.

Junghans time and strike movement, B11 is under the Junghans trademark

Assessing the movement

This is a well-made movement. Early Junghans movements were robust and strong runners. I have heard stories of Junghans clocks from this era running well despite being very worn. Junghans’s movements are a cut above Mauthe, Hermle, HAC, and other mass-produced German clocks made during this period, in my view. The movement exudes quality with solid front and back plates though lantern pinions are favoured over cut pinions.

The movement has been serviced at least once, so far as I can determine. There is an “S” mark on the strike side barrel cap, helpful when returning the barrels to their correct location. I did not measure the mainsprings but the strike side spring is notably longer than the time side. There are two possible reasons, one that the strike side mainspring was replaced at some point in the clock’s life, or two, there is more load on the strike side requiring a stronger spring.

Junghans movement top view, strike side

The mainsprings are in good condition and there is plenty of power though there is more oil than necessary within the barrels. After assessing the movement I could see that there had been no significant repairs in the past. The crutch has been bent in several places in an attempt to adjust the beat but otherwise, everything looks reasonably good for the age of the clock.

Junghans movement, plate removed

Disassembly

Separating the plates was more difficult than it should have been. I had to remove all four pillars (secured by screws on both ends) to determine what was sticking. I discovered that the motion works centre arbour pivot was “stuck” in the backplate. By “stuck” I mean that although the wheel was moving freely the end of the pivot had been flattened. Why I don’t know. Had the pivot been punched in an attempt to enlarge it, had someone hammered the pivot end for whatever reason, had the pivot been replaced or it is possible that the plates had never been separated and that is how it came from the factory? Once the pivot was pried from the plate I rounded the end with a file and it now fits perfectly.

Junghans B11 movement
I use a screwdriver to point out any washer I find on a movement

All parts were cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner which removed a considerable amount of accumulated grime. As always the ultrasonic cleaner does a great job with lantern pinions and the lantern pinions, on all 6 wheels, are in excellent condition.

There has been no bushing work done on the movement. The only punch mark I observed was just below the escape wheel outside the plate where an attempt was made to close the hole.

To bush or not to bush

After cleaning the movement, pegging the holes, and polishing the pivots the next step is deciding whether or not to bush the movement.

I could see that some bushings may be required, 4 on the backplate where there is more load on the wheels and 2 on the front plate for a total of 6, 2 on the strike side, and 4 on the time side but I will make a final decision once I have checked the entire movement further.

I installed all the wheels and checked for pivot movement within their respective pivot holes. The wear was not excessive. However, after much thought, I decided there is enough lateral movement of the pivots in their holes to affect its running. Besides, I wanted to place the clock in a prominent area of the house and by addressing wear issues now the clock would run well for some time without another servicing.

Seven bushings were installed, 3 on the time side, and 4 on the strike side. The largest one, which I did not include in my initial assessment, was a 4.5mm (OD) bushing for the count wheel.

Junghans front plate count wheel bushing
Junghans front plate new count wheel bushing

Re-assembly and testing

Once all the pivot work is complete and the holes pegged out again it is time for re-assembly. Setting up the strike side of the count wheel strike means ensuring that the warning pin is sitting just off the locking lever (12 o’clock position), the drop lever is sitting on the flat section of the cam wheel, and the count lever is in one of the deep slots of the count wheel.

Testing the Junghans movement; beat amplifier attached

Only this time it was not all roses. The strike train consistently missed the half-hour strike because the count lever would drop in the middle part, not the beginning of the deep slot, occasionally missing the half-hour strike. Plus, the count lever did not completely rest on the cam. I cannot remember spending as much time correcting the strike side on a German movement as I did on this one. On one occasion I had everything together to discover that the paddle was hanging off one of the points of the star wheel. Having too much load at the beginning of the strike either will stop the strike or add one more strike to the indicated hour.

I must have taken the movement apart 5 times, and of course, each time I reassembled the movement I was wary of damaging those tiny pivots. Eventually, everything worked out. Sometimes when working with German countwheel strikes everything falls into place the first time. Not so much this time.

While on the workbench, I replaced the old tired suspension spring with a new one.

Junghans clock dial
Junghans clock dial numbers have been retouched

So, after a long-overdue cleaning and a few new bushings, the movement is oiled and is on the test stand. After several small adjustments to the beat, it is now running and striking as it should.

Now to see how we can address a grimy silvered dial. Join me in a couple of weeks as I take you through cleaning the dial face.

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