Understanding Clock Pivot Wear and Bushing: Part II of Two-Part Series

Junghans front plate count wheel bushing

In Part I, I explained the importance of bushing to mitigate wear on a mechanical clock movement.

In summary, bushing involves replacing worn brass around a pivot by drilling a new hole and inserting a new bushing, either using a bushing machine or hand tools. Severely worn pivots may need re-pivoting, which involves installing new pivots using a lathe. Minor wear can be managed with filing, polishing, and burnishing. Proper bushing and pivot work are crucial for maintaining clock movements, extending their lifespan, and ensuring reliable operation.

Now that we understand bushing wear, it is time to proceed with the bushing process.

The process of bushing a mechanical clock plate involves several steps to restore the worn pivot holes to their original condition. Here’s a detailed description of the process:

Disassembly: The clock movement is carefully disassembled, and the clock plates are removed to access the worn pivot holes. Resist the temptation to immerse the entire movement in a cleaning solution. Although this might offer a temporary fix, it prevents proper assessment of the pivots and pivot holes for wear.

indicating wjehere bushings will be installed — _{Wood picks identify where bushings will be installed}

Cleaning of all parts: While manual cleaning with a solution is satisfactory, using an ultrasonic cleaner and a solution specifically designed for such a machine, yields better results by ensuring all dirt and grime are thoroughly removed from the brass and steel parts. The cleaning process also includes thoroughly drying all the parts.

Identifying Worn Holes: Each pivot hole is inspected for wear. Worn holes are typically oval-shaped due to the pivot’s repeated movement. I use a marking pen to identify those pivot holes that require a new bushing. I generally work on one train at a time, leaving the main wheels out during this process. I reassemble all the wheels of one train between the two plates, checking for wear by turning and pushing on the wheels. This allows me to observe any lateral movement and see how the gears mesh with each other.

_{A marking pen identifies a worn bushing hole}

Centering and Drilling: A bushing machine with a centering tool is used to precisely center the worn pivot hole.

Centering prior to drilling — _{Centering tool Centering is used to center the pivot hole}

A new, round hole is then drilled into the clock plate. This hole must be accurately positioned to ensure the clock’s gears will mesh correctly.

Drilling a hole with Bergeon bushing machine — _{Using a cutter to enlarge a hole in the plate}

Selecting the Bushing: An appropriately sized bushing is chosen to fit the newly drilled hole. The bushing is usually made of brass and should match the original hole dimensions but is made larger than the hole to ensure a tight fit. For the Bergeon Bushing Machine, Bergeon brass bushings are used.

Pressing or punching the Bushing: The selected bushing is pressed or punched into the newly drilled hole. This can be done using a bushing machine, which ensures the bushing is inserted straight and flush with the plate. If done by hand, reamers and smoothing broaches are used to achieve a similar result. A chamfering bit, which does not come with the Bergeon Machine, is used to gently cut the edge of the bushing hole to ensure that the bushing is punched or pressed in neatly.

Punching the bushing home — _{Positioning the bushing prior to punching the bushing home}

Reaming the Bushing: Once the bushing is in place, it is reamed to the correct internal diameter to fit the pivot. Reaming is achieved by using a five-sided reaming broach sized to fit the hole. Following the reaming process, a smoothing broach is used to smooth the walls of the bushing hole. A toothpick is then used to clean the hole and remove any debris left behind by the broaches. This entire process ensures that the pivot will rotate smoothly without excessive play.

Swiss made smoothing broaches — _{Swiss-made smoothing broaches}

Polishing and Burnishing: The pivot that will run in the new bushing is polished and burnished to reduce friction and wear. A metal lathe is an indispensable tool for this procedure. This step is crucial for the longevity of the repair.

Reassembly: The clock movement is reassembled, with the newly bushed pivot holes ensuring proper alignment and smooth operation of the gears. Clock oil is applied before the testing phase.

Testing: The reassembled clock is tested to ensure that it runs accurately and reliably. Any final adjustments are made to fine-tune the movement.

The process of bushing a mechanical clock plate involves disassembly, identification of worn bushing holes, precise centering and drilling, selection and insertion of appropriately sized bushings, followed by reaming, polishing, and burnishing of the pivot. Finally, the clock movement is reassembled and thoroughly tested to ensure accurate and reliable operation.

By following these steps, the worn pivot holes are restored, improving the clock’s performance and extending its lifespan.

June 11, 2024

Understanding Clock Pivot Wear and Bushing: Part I of Two-Part Series

Is your mechanical clock experiencing issues such as intermittent stopping or simply not running at all? This might be due to several issues with the movement, one of which could be pivot wear.

This is a two-part series. In Part I, I will explain why it is necessary to bush a clock movement, and in Part II, I will describe my method for bushing.

What are pivots?

Pivots are the ends of the axles, known as “arbours” in horology, that rotate in small holes drilled into the clock plates as the clock runs. They are the turned-down ends of the arbour. These, along with the holes they rotate in, can wear down over time causing enlarged holes that will contribute to poor running or stopping. The pivot hole must be perfectly round, and the pivots need a mirror-like polish to minimize friction within the train of gears. To protect the surfaces and reduce friction, approved clock oil acts as a barrier between the pivot and the pivot hole.

Worn pivots or pivot holes can cause the wheel to drift away from the pinion, eventually stopping the clock as the gears fail to mesh properly. Clocks in need of bushings may run erratically or stop altogether.

Worn Pivot hole — _{A very worn pivot hole}

Oiling a dirty or worn movement

If a clock movement isn’t routinely serviced (cleaned and oiled), the plates of the movement will experience wear at the pivot points. Applying new oil over old oil can free abrasive dirt and provide a temporary solution but accelerate wear on the steel pivot and brass bushing holes because the contaminated oil acts like a grinding paste.

Worn pivots are often found in clocks repeatedly oiled without proper cleaning. Proper servicing requires disassembling the movement, cleaning the parts, addressing wear issues, reassembling, and testing.

Punch marks

From time to time, there is evidence of punch marks located around the pivot hole which is an attempt to close worn pivot holes. While a common practice in the past, this is no longer considered an acceptable repair practice.

Bent pivot — _{A pivot} _{– in this photo, the pivot is slightly bent}

Pivots need periodic cleaning and polishing to turn freely in the clock movement plate hole. Worn pivot holes are easy to identify as they appear oval-shaped rather than round.

Close-up of bushing wear — _{Bushing wear – the left portion of the hole is elongated}

What is bushing?

“Bushing” is the process of replacing worn brass around the pivot so that the hole is round again. A new hole is drilled into the plate, and a new, appropriately sized bushing is pressed into place using a bushing machine like the Bergeon Bushing Machine.

Some clockmakers prefer to hand-bush using reamers and smoothing broaches, producing satisfactory results, though a machine simplifies the task and is more accurate.

Severely worn steel pivots must be replaced with new ones, a process called re-pivoting. This involves using a watch or clock lathe to drill into the end of the wheel arbor to install a new pivot made from pivot wire.

Minor wear is expected over a clock’s life and can be managed with careful filing, polishing, and burnishing.

In summary, bushing is an integral part of movement servicing. Well-maintained clocks may show minimal wear and may not require new bushings, while others, due to neglect or improper servicing, may require many bushings.

Proper pivot and bushing work can extend a clock movement’s lifespan, ensuring reliable operation for years.

In Part II of this two-part series, I will describe my method for bushing a clock movement

June 4, 2024

A smoothing broach completes the bushing process

Clock movements often require bushing for several reasons. Over time, the original brass bushings can wear out due to friction and other factors. When this occurs, the holes in the clock plates become enlarged and misshapen, resulting in a poor fit between the components that interact with each other. This wear and tear can lead to excessive play in the gears, causing the clock to run erratically or not at all.

Bushing involves inserting new brass bushings into the worn-out holes of the clock plates. These bushings provide a precise and snug fit for the pivots, ensuring the gears move smoothly. Bushing prolongs a clock’s lifespan and maintains its accuracy over time.

This proactive approach to maintenance can help preserve the integrity of the clock movement and prevent more costly repairs in the future.

The smoothing broach – what it does and how it’s used

When bushing an antique clock movement, the bushing machine, such as the Bergeon 6200 bushing machine, enlarges the pivot holes using a cutter. This cutter is responsible for creating a hole large enough to accommodate a bushing of the appropriate size, which is then pressed or punched into the clock plate.

When choosing a bushing It is advisable to select a bushing that has a slightly smaller inside diameter for optimal performance. Once the bushing is installed, a cutting broach is employed to enlarge the hole just enough to ensure the smooth movement of the pivot.

Installing or punching a bushing — _{Punching or pushing a bushing into the plate}

A cutting broach typically resembles a slender, tapered metal rod with flutes or grooves along its length and is usually 5 sided. It is designed to remove material as it is rotated within a hole. The removal of the material enlarges the hole. The size of the cutting broach corresponds to the desired diameter of the hole being created or enlarged.

The final step is the smoothing process.

Smoothing broaches offer several advantages. Firstly, these broaches are designed to finish the holes in the clock plates, ensuring proper fitment of the bushings.

Smoothing broaches help to remove any remaining burrs, irregularities, or minor debris from the interior of the bushing holes, promoting the smoother operation of the gears and other components. This contributes to the overall performance and longevity of the clock.

Needless to say, smoothing broaches are specifically designed for clockmaking purposes, meaning they are engineered to withstand the demands of the job and provide consistent results when used time and time again. This reliability is essential when working on valuable and delicate antique timepieces. Investing in high-quality smoothing broaches is advisable to ensure the best results, particularly when working on valuable and delicate antique movements.

Smoothing broaches are available in various sizes, so it’s crucial to select the one that matches the inside diameter of the new bushing. Once the cutting broach has completed its task of creating a hole of the correct size, the smoothing broach takes over as a finishing tool. Carefully twist or rotate the smoothing broach while gently cleaning the hole, inserting it from the inside of the plate and then the outside to ensure the hole is cleaned thoroughly and evenly. After the broaching process, the last step in preparing the new bushing hole for the pivot involves cleaning the inside of the hole with a toothpick to eliminate any minute debris left from the smoothing process.

Overall, the use of smoothing broaches when bushing an antique clock movement ensures proper fitment, smooth operation, precision, and reliability, all of which are crucial for preserving the integrity and functionality of a clock movement.

Proper clock servicing requires a comprehensive arsenal of equipment, with smoothing broaches being just one essential component.

March 26, 2024

Wrapping up the servicing of a Seth Thomas type 89 movement

Seth Thomas is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history, and they produced a variety of clock movements over the years. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas between 1900 and 1938.

Seth Thomas mantel clock from the 1930s — _{Seth Thomas mantel or shelf clock}

The mantel clock in question features the Type 89 movement. Acquired in the summer of 2023, this clock boasts a simple and straightforward design.

In the first part of this two-part series, I discussed the disappointments I encountered with the clock’s case.

Seth Thomas type 89 movement showing dirt and rust — _{Seth Thomas type 89 movement, dirty and rusty}

The focus then shifted to the disassembly process and my examination of the widely-used Seth Thomas Type 89 clock movement.

My observations highlighted a replaced mainspring on the strike side, the necessity for bushing work, and indications of rust, all of which posed challenges that I committed to addressing in subsequent stages such as cleaning, bushing, oiling, and reassembly.

The focus of this blog post is the completion of servicing of this type 89 clock movement.

The front plate of a type 89 Seth Thomas movement — _{Front of the type 89 movement} _{before disassembly}

Cleaning of the mainsprings

There is always the temptation to do nothing with the mainsprings if they look acceptable. However, cleaning the mainsprings is an essential part of clock servicing. Uncoiling and wiping the dirt and grime from the mainsprings with a cloth is the preferred method, but cleaning them with an ultrasonic cleaner is also an option.

In Part I, I cleaned the mainsprings in my ultrasonic cleaner and provided a rationale for this decision. Before I go any further, I’d like to emphasize a crucial point regarding the cleaning of mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner. This practice is not recommended and should only be considered as a last resort.

While cleaning mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner has little impact on the surfaces or mechanism of the cleaner itself the oil removed from the mainsprings generates a black liquid that contaminates the cleaning solution, rendering it ineffective for future use.

_{Seth Thomas type 89 mainsprings, note the replacement spring on the right}

Clamps have been applied to secure the mainsprings after oiling, and they’ve been set aside. Now, we move on to the next step: the bushing phase.

The back plate is removed on a type 89 Seth Thomas movement — _{Backplate removed}

Bushing the movement

As the movement is fully disassembled this is the stage where bushing work can be done.
I commend individuals who choose to bush by hand, but personally, It is not for me.

Various systems exist for bushing, with KWM and Bergeon being the two most widely adopted. It’s worth noting that neither system is inherently superior to the other, as preferences tend to vary among enthusiasts. When referring to a “system,” it’s important to understand that the bushings from one system are not interchangeable with those from the other.

That said I use the Bergeon system.

Bergeon 6200 Bushing Machine — _{Bergeon Bushing Machine}

Before bushing, I identify all the locations requiring attention and mark them with a Sharpie. There is no permanent mark as rubbing alcohol will easily remove all traces of ink.

I have an excellent assortment of bushings and have all the required ones for this project.

An assortment of Bergeon bushings, assortment #5488 — _{An assortment of Bergeon bushings, #5488}

Using cutters each hole is drilled out and chamfered, that is, removing the sharp edges to allow the pushings to be pressed in smoothly. As I insert each new bushing I test the fit by assembling the wheels to check how freely they move. This allows me to make small adjustments in the event the pivot is too tight in the bushing hole.

Cutting into the bushing hole with Bergeon bushing machine — _{Cutting into a brass plate}

Based on my initial assessment, the bushings for both the front and back plates of the escape wheel were the most worn. The next new bushing is the fourth wheel front plate, the one adjacent to the escape wheel. After three bushings everything looks good and the wear further down the train does not look too bad. A fourth bushing for the fourth wheel should be enough.

A cutting broach is used to enlarge any holes that are a tight fit for a pivot followed by a smoothing broach. To prepare for the wheels to go back in place all bushing holes are cleaned with pegs/toothpicks.

Test fitting the time-side wheels during the bushing process, type 89 Seth Thomas movement — _{Test fitting the time-side wheels during the bushing process}

In the photo above, the plates and gears look shinier after a session with the ultrasonic cleaner. However, it’s important to note that the main goal in clock repair isn’t to make everything as shiny as possible. The focus is on reducing wear and tear. Some dirt and grime on the plates might not come off completely during the cleaning process in every case and it is not something the clock repairer should be overly concerned with.

Back to bushing. There is a little bit of play on the second and third wheels but it is tolerable so, I think I will stop at this point.

Punching a 3.5 mm Bergeon bushing into a clock plate — _{Punching a bushing into the plate}

Were I in the clock repair business I would bush everything on the time train, or the entire movement for that matter, but since I usually inspect movements in my collection every 2-3 years I can address any additional wear at that time.

On to the strike train. In the first article, I mentioned that there was not much wear on the strike side which might be attributable to that side not being wound as often. The only hole that must be addressed is the cam wheel bushing on the front plate. Why this bushing hole is worn much worse than the others is a bit of a mystery.

Okay, all the work is done for a total of five new Bergeon bushings. The holes have been pegged, and the movement is now ready to be reassembled.

The one hiccup encountered during the bushing process was the malfunction of my caliper tool. Fortunately, this isn’t a major problem, as all the Bergeon bushings are uniform at 3.5mm outside diameter, with inside diameters of either 1.4mm or 1.5mm so I knew what size to grab first.

Reassembly

When dealing with American 8-day time and strike movements, there are challenges in configuring the strike mechanism accurately. Occasionally, luck is on my side, and I manage to place the paddle in the deep slot, position the lever in the lowest part of the cam wheel, and align the warning wheel just right on the first attempt.

A useful tip. If the lever is in the lower part of the cam wheel and the paddle is not in the deep slot, simply move the toothed count wheel sideways so that it does not engage the pinon and reposition the wheel till the paddle finds the deep slot.

No luck setting up the strike this time! If the strike train does not lock correctly it will simply keep on running and you will know that soon enough.

The plates can be partially pried open without the risk of all the wheels and levers springing out. Repositioning the warning wheel involves moving the fly aside, carefully extracting the 4th wheel from its pivot hole, and rotating it a quarter turn or so to ensure the warning pin aligns with the stop lever.

_{Seth Thomas movement on the test stand}

A minor issue with the hammer lever surfaced as it was not aligning correctly with the strike pins on the cam wheel. No disassembly of the movement is required for this adjustment. Simply loosen the bottom two nuts by the mainsprings, and the strike hammer can be removed to straighten it. After having been bent multiple times over the years, straightening it out resolved the issue.

Next, the movement is oiled with Keystone clock pivot oil and mounted on a test stand. After a week it is running and striking as it should.

And lastly, my new caliper arrived just as I was concluding the servicing on this clock.

Addendum

To properly configure the strike side, pay attention to the positioning of the levers as pointed out by the arrows.

In the above photo, the lower arrow shows the paddle in the deep slot, and the upper arrow shows the drop lever in the indent of the cam.

The upper arrow shows the position of the stop pin on the stop wheel. The lower arrow shows the locking lever.

February 2, 2024

Exploring Factors Behind the Recent Increase in Clock Equipment Prices

While there has been a minimal uptick in clock prices, at least as far as the garden variety of common antique clocks is concerned, the cost of clock repair equipment had increased dramatically.

The increase in the cost of clock repair equipment can be attributed to several factors that may contribute to the significant rise in prices. Following a discussion of the factors I will present a case in point.

Rarity and Specialization

Clock repair equipment, especially those designed for antique and specialized clocks, may have limited production or availability at any given time. However, during the Covid years demand for specialized equipment virtually evaporated. Given the lull in manufacturing the restart costs of producing new equipment have increased. Scarcity and specialization will drive up prices. The relatively small market size can contribute to higher prices as manufacturers may need to recover their expenses with a limited number of sales.

Manufacturing Costs

The cost of raw materials, labour, and overhead expenses involved in producing clock repair equipment has risen over time. Factors such as inflation, increased demand for certain materials, the scarcity of raw materials, and changes in manufacturing processes contribute to the overall increase in costs.

Technological Advancements

As technology advances, new tools, and equipment are developed to cater to modern clock repair techniques. These advanced tools often come with higher price tags due to research and development costs, as well as the incorporation of improved functionality.

Import Costs and Tariffs

Clock repair equipment may be sourced from various regions or countries. Fluctuations in import costs, including tariffs, taxes, and shipping expenses, can impact the final price of the equipment. Changes in trade policies and international relations have influenced the cost of importing these products.

A case in Point

While browsing a Canadian clock supplier’s website in June 2023, I couldn’t help but notice a significant increase in the cost of the Bergeon 6200 Bushing Machine that comes with a toolset. Comparing prices from my previous purchase in 2016, the difference is striking. Back then, I was able to purchase a brand new Bergeon machine with hammers and cutters for around $1200, whereas today, the same machine is priced at $2126, a 77% increase (the 6200 has not been changed significantly), which also includes the reamers and hammers. One might be found at a reduced price of around $1900 on eBay, still a significant jump in price.

Similarly, a box of Bergeon bushings that cost $150 in 2016 now carries a price tag of $325. These price increases have made sourcing a used machine with a toolset at around $700, a more appealing option for someone entering the field of clock repair. However, if the reamers are worn and need replacement, the cost alone would be several hundred dollars if purchased new (all Canadian prices).

When evaluating pricing trends in the clockmaking industry, clockmakers and enthusiasts must take into account the changing market dynamics to stay updated.

July 11, 2023

More advanced clock repair tools for the budget minded and those of you who can afford the extra cost

_Antique clocks are not only valuable as historical artifacts but also as complex machines that require precise repair and maintenance. To ensure their longevity and functionality, clock repairers need to have access to advanced tools that can help them diagnose and fix various issues. From ultrasonic cleaners to digital calipers, the modern clock repairer has an array of high-tech tools at their disposal that can make the restoration process more efficient and accurate.

In this article, we will explore some of the most advanced tools used in antique clock repair and how they are used to restore these valuable timepieces to their former glory.

Some of these tools may or may not break the bank depending on your financial situation or budget restrictions. Should you be prepared to invest heavily and cost is no object there are a number of options. For those of you who are budget minded, are looking for value, and are handy around wood-making tools, there are options for very little money.

For those specialized tools that will assist you in building and designing your own movements, such as a wheel/pinion cutter, the depthing tool, and advanced testing machines, please look elsewhere, this is not the place for you.

In my last article, I focused on what is needed for more advanced repairs but kept the budget at under 400 USD. This time the outlay grows a little but it can be controlled if you make careful decisions.

Beyond the basics – more advanced tools for clock repair

_{See this article for more advanced tools}

As in life, there are many ways of accomplishing the same task which means a number of options are available:

Purchase new tools
Substitute hand tools for machine tools
Make the tools
Buy on the used market
Improvise

For each category area, there are options for budget-minded and those with unlimited funds.

On a personal note, my first major tool was a spring winder. Next was a bushing machine followed by an ultrasonic cleaner and finally, a metal lathe. The purchases were made over the space of four years and working within a limited budget. Your mileage may vary.

Let’s get started.

Spring winder

Joe Collin’s spring winder for the budget-minded

Olie Baker spring winder

The Olie Baker spring winder is designed for hole or loop end mainsprings. It has a unique tailstock feature that safely stabilizes and secures your mainspring so it will not slip off. It also comes with nine mainspring sleeves.

It is American-made and approximately 280 USD. An extra cost Mainspring Let-down Set or a comparable tool is required to operate the Ollie Baker Winder. The KWN spring winder, which is equally capable, competes with the Olie Baker.

_{You will need a letdown for the Olie Baker spring winder}

Bushing Methods

Drill press

Bushing work can be accomplished on a drill press but a cheaper unit will have poor runout. Runout is the amount of “wobble” that is found in the drill press (the drill bit specifically) when it is rotating. A machine with a poor runout will produce a larger and more imperfect hole than the size of the drill bit used. My inexpensive Canadian Tire drill press has a visible runout and is not acceptable for bushing work. Higher-priced machines have less runout and can operate at very low speeds. A low-speed drill is optimal for bushing work.

Bushing by hand

Hand-reaming with KWM or Bergeon cutters is an art in and of itself. Hand reamers usually come as a set of 5 Reamers, 1 Chamfering Cutter, and a handle. A hand reamer set is an economical method of reaming bushing holes so that brass bushings are pushed into place once the hole is reamed out.

The Bushing machine

The KWM Bushing Tool is used with KWN bushings. Used units, which are a fraction of the cost, can only use KWN’s own bushings however, a new design makes it now possible to use all the original KWM brass brushings but also all brass and bronze bushings by Bergeon.

The Bergeon bushing machine is the second option. The Bergeon Bushing machine Includes 2 plate clamps, 10 reamers, 3 pushers, 4 drilled stakes, 1 undrilled stake, 1 centering tool, 1 chamfering cutter, 1 centering stake, and instructions and is made in Switzerland.

As far as bushing machines are concerned one is no better than the other. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. There is a legion of fans on either side.

Cutting and smoothing broaches

Cheap cutters and smoothing broaches will certainly work but it is worth spending a little money on better-quality tools.

Regardless of whether you subscribe to Bergeon or KWN bushings a set of bushings of various sizes is essential.

Polishing pivots

Taig metal lathe

For repairing broken pivots a metal lather is essential. For polishing pivots, a lathe is very useful but not essential. The Taig metal lathe is a popular choice for hobbyists and professionals alike due to its accuracy, rigidity, and durability. With a range of attachments and accessories available, the Taig lathe is capable of tackling a variety of machining tasks with ease.

Portable drill

During the early days of clock repair, I used a portable drill to polish pivots. It is relatively cheap as one usually has a portable drill around the house. Combined with emery boards it is an effective polisher.

Clock Reference Books, how-to guides, and manuals

The essential clock repair library according to Antiquevintageclock.com

_{Go here for all the books I recommend}

It is becoming increasingly challenging to find good hard-cover clock repair books. Check out my article above for my choices for clock repair resources.

Cleaning choices

Ultrasonic cleaner

Using an ultrasonic cleaner is a highly effective way to clean small clock parts and components without causing damage or introducing harmful chemicals. The high-frequency sound waves generated by the cleaner can dislodge dirt, grime, and other contaminants from even the most hard-to-reach areas.

There are a wide variety of ultrasonic cleaners. A Chinese-made cleaner will work well (and is cost-effective) but for reliability and longevity, it is best to spend a little extra money on a quality machine.

Of course, if you prefer not to go the ultrasonic route, hand cleaning is perfectly acceptable. You will not have the shiny brand-new look that an ultrasonic cleaner will give you but in most cases the movement is hidden and aesthetics are not absolutely required.

Important extras

Comfortable chair

Using a comfortable chair for antique clock repair can help reduce fatigue and improve concentration during the restoration process. A well-designed chair can provide proper support and comfort for extended periods of work, which can be particularly beneficial for complex and time-consuming repair projects. Do not underestimate the value of a comfortable chair.

Leather gloves

Mainsprings, when they break or let go can leave ugly cuts and bruises. A good pair of leather gloves will be your best friend.

Work area

Using a dedicated work area for clock repair is essential for creating a safe, organized, and efficient workspace. Having a designated area for repair work can help prevent accidents, minimize distractions, and ensure that all tools and materials are within easy reach. It can also help maintain the integrity of the clock being worked on by minimizing the risk of damage or contamination.

I am sure I left out a few things but these are the essentials and again if your budget permits, better-quality tools will make all the difference.

In conclusion, the world of antique clock repair has come a long way in recent years with the development of advanced tools and technologies. These tools have made it possible for repairers to restore valuable timepieces with greater precision, efficiency, and accuracy.

While traditional repair methods and techniques will always have their place, the use of advanced tools has enabled repairers to tackle even the most challenging restoration projects with confidence. The use of advanced tools and techniques can help preserve these historical treasures for generations to come.

March 17, 2023

Tick Talk Tuesday #32 – Advice on learning how to bush a movement

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face, a clock you would like me to profile, my advice on your particular clock concern or a general clock question. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

KB writes, “Hi Ron, I have been following your blog with interest, I have a a interesting collection of clocks, longcase, carriage and mantle. I am now in the process of restoring them. I need some help with bushing, can you please tell me how you do this.
Many Thanks”

My reply

“You can hand bush, use a drill press or a bushing machine such as the Bergeon Bushing machine as demonstrated in this video. The bushing work is at the 6:40 point of the video if you want to skip ahead.

Otherwise, this article might be of help.

Use the keyword in the Search box on my blog to find more articles on bushing a movement.

Hope this helps.

Ron”

May 18, 2021

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Spring winder

Bushing Methods

Polishing pivots

Clock Reference Books, how-to guides, and manuals

Cleaning choices

Important extras

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