American clocks with double dials, often referred to as “double dial” or “two-dial” clocks, were common in the 19th century.
There are two categories of double-dial clocks but first, let’s talk about the calendar clock. These clocks typically have one dial for the time and another for the calendar. The reason for this design was to provide both timekeeping and a calendar function in a single device.
Seth Thomas 8-day office calendar 1895
By integrating both time and calendar functions into a single clock, manufacturers provided a practical solution for the needs of households and businesses.
Welch 5-day calendar clock 1880
Moreover, before the widespread adoption of standardized timekeeping systems, local time could vary significantly from one place to another. Having a clock that displayed both local time and the date helped people coordinate activities and synchronize their schedules more effectively.
Fashion (Southern Calendar Clock Co.) and Ithaca were well-known makers of quality shelf and wall calendar clocks. Seth Thomas was a significant producer of office calendar clocks.
Ithaca 30-day calendar clock 1866
Less common are double-dial clocks that exhibit two separate times. A typical two-dial clock of this type would display railroad time and local time or railroad time and city time.
Seth Thomas double time #17 special order clock
When the two major US railway companies adopted Standard Time in 1883 the Seth Thomas Company began the manufacture of 8-day weight-driven clocks with two time dials. The clocks would come with an upper and lower plaque depicting local time and railroad time. Some clocks were production clocks while others like the #17 were special order clocks.
Seth Thomas double time clock#6, a production clock
Both dials are run by one movement with a connecting drive shaft between the upper and lower units. Once the upper movement is set up, the lower unit will display the relative difference. Moving the hands on the upper unit moves the hands on the lower unit accordingly.
Upper movement and the lower unit are connected by a drive shaft
Examples of the more prevalent #6 can be readily found, whereas the specialized #17 is exceptionally rare. Regardless, acquiring either double-time model would entail a significant investment of thousands of dollars.
A steeple clock is a type of clock designed to resemble a miniature church steeple or spire. This style of clock is often characterized by its tall and narrow structure.
These clocks gained popularity in the mid-19th century and were often produced in various styles. The design was influenced by the Gothic Revival architecture that was prevalent during that period.
Steeple clocks are relatively common in North America as thousands were produced in America particularly but rare in other parts of the world.
New Haven Gothic Steeple clock
In my collection, I own three steeple clocks – the first, crafted by the American manufacturer Elisha Manross, the second by the Hamilton Clock Company of Hamilton, Ontario, and the third by The New Haven Clock Company of America, made for export and sold by Thomas Spike Jewelers in Halifax, Nova Scotia in the 1880s.
All three share a commonality with their time and strike 30-hour spring-driven movements.
The Elisha Manross steeple clock stands out with its distinctive use of tempered brass mainsprings, marking a period between 1836 and 1847 when this material was the motive force for spring-driven clocks. It represents a technological glimpse into an important era in American clockmaking.
Alisha Manross steeple clock
However, it is the steeple clock from the Hamilton Clock Company that holds a special place in my collection. Being a Canadian collector, the clock not only adds historical charm to my collection but also carries significance because it is Canadian-made.
Crafted in Hamilton, Ontario, it embodies a piece of Canadian horological heritage, making it more than just a clock but a connection to the craftsmanship and legacy of clockmaking in Canada.
Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple clock
The Hamilton Gothic steeple clock stands out because of a religious inscription, “Cling to the Cross,” delicately etched onto the lower glass tablet. It is a rare clock from the Hamilton Clock Co., which manufactured a variety of clocks of every style over a very short period.
The historical weight of this 30-hour steeple clock is underscored in Jim Connell’s description in a video he produced several years ago. Connell, a figure renowned in Canadian clock circles, whose acknowledgment of the clock’s rarity adds an extra layer of importance to this find. Fun fact, Jim Connell invented salt and vinegar potato chips.
This clock carries whispers of a bygone era, a testament to the Hamilton Clock Co. which, between 1876 and 1880, made a valiant though short-lived attempt to compete with the growing number of common clocks coming from the USA.
Steeple clock discussion
The term “Gothic steeple clock” specifically refers to clocks that incorporate Gothic design elements, such as pointed arches, into their structure.
An unusual “ribbed” style steeple clock
Steeple clocks can vary in features, including different types of movements.
A trio of steeple clocks with an 8-day fusee clock in the middle
The vast majority were relatively simple designs that were spring-driven but there are some very rare examples of steeple clocks that are weight-driven and ones that incorporate fusee movements.
Unknown double steeple clock
R. Blakeslee, Jr. in or around 1850 made a 30-hour weight-driven clock with a lyre movement (not pictured). His clock also featured a compound pulley configuration on the time side, the time side weight being heavier than the strike side.
A fusee movement, unknown maker
Even more unusual are double-steeple clocks, a noteworthy example being a Birge and Fuller 8-day fusee-powered brass movement clock (not pictured) made in the mid-1840s.
During the same period, Elisha Manross made a double steeple shelf clock that had an 8-day time and strike strap brass fusee movement with a 12″ pendulum (not pictured). It features the original stenciled and painted tablets by William B. Fenn of Plymouth. William Fenn was one of the more prolific tablet makers of the mid-19th century.
By comparison to a conventional steeple clock that stands at about 20 inches, double steeples are over 6 inches taller.
Jerome & Co. New Haven, Conn, 1850 steeple with the portrait of Andrew Jackson
Jerome & Co. of Chauncey Jerome fame also produced a double steeple in 1850. The one pictured above features a portrait of the seventh President of the USA, Andrew Jackson.
Gallery-style gothic clock, a variation of a steeple theme
Steeple clocks are appreciated by collectors for their historical charm and unique aesthetic, reflecting the craftsmanship and design of the era in which they were produced. They also stand as tangible expressions of the artistry and cultural influences of their respective historical periods.
Elisha Manross, though less commonly known compared to American clockmakers such as Seth Thomas, New Haven, or Waterbury, played a significant role in the development of Connecticut clocks. In his book American Shelf and Wall Clocks Robert Ball listed Elisha Manross as being in business from 1827 -1849.
He was a prolific clockmaker and produced a variety of clocks but one of his more desirable clocks is a “double steeple” shelf clock with an 8-day time and strike spring strap brass fusee movement with a 12″ pendulum.
Manross was known as the clockmaker’s clockmaker because his products were used by many clock-manufacturing firms such as Boardman and Wells, Sperry and Shaw, and other well-known makers. Although my clock is a 30-hour version, Manross made 8-day weight-driven movements as well.
However, the focus of this article is a 30-hour gothic steeple made in the early 1840s that came to me as part of a collection of old clocks found in a barn 20 minutes drive from my home.
The completed clock, the hour, and the minute hand are replacements; the original ones would have been spade and spear
There were thousands of steeple clocks made by many American manufacturers at that time but it is unusual to find one with its original brass mainsprings intact as many have undergone replacements with steel mainsprings. The brass mainsprings in this clock have not only remained but also seem to be in excellent condition.
Cleaned brass mainsprings, notice how tight the brass is in the centre
Brass springs were developed in the E.C. Brewster shop in Bristol sometime around 1833-35 and patented in 1836. They were used by Seth Thomas, Brewster & Ingraham, and others.
Brass mainsprings were uncommon in American clocks, having a brief period of use from 1836 to about 1850. Domestically manufactured mainsprings were not available in the US until 1847. In 1847, the widespread adoption of tempered steel mainsprings began and soon replaced the use of brass mainsprings in clockmaking so ending the era of brass springs. Brass springs were used in Manross miniature Ogees, and shelf clocks.
The goal of servicing
Preserving the movement with the least intervention possible is the primary goal. There is a temptation to replace them with steel counterparts and put the brass springs aside. However, to maintain the historical authenticity of this clock, they will remain in the movement.
Elisha Manross movement, as found: Type S5.1 30-hour movement with centre mount count wheel
Working with brass mainspringsand addressing wear
Working with brass mainsprings requires careful handling; unlike steel, they cannot be stretched out for cleaning. After cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaner, and meticulous drying using strips of terry cloth worked into the coil, the results are impressive.
Upon inspecting the movement as a whole, I noticed certain pivot holes with punch marks around them. Punching was commonly used to close pivot holes then but is not considered an acceptable practice today. Despite being punched, they continued to function effectively.
To address the most significant wear, only the problematic pivot holes underwent bushing. Four bushings were added on the strike side, where wear tends to be more pronounced—a commonly encountered issue in clock restoration. There were no new bushings required on the time side.
Punch marks to close a hole
A past tooth repair resulted in a sturdy albeit somewhat rough appearance. It could have been filed down and polished but I left it as-is because it is part of the clock’s history.
Main wheel tooth repair
The final step involved returning the clock to its case, preserving not just its functionality but also its historical integrity.
Assessing the quality of mantel clocks, whether American or German, involves considering various factors such as craftsmanship, materials used, design, and overall reliability. Both American and German manufacturers have a rich history in clockmaking, and each has its own unique characteristics.
In my collection, I’ve assembled a diverse array of clocks, featuring both American and European examples. Drawing upon my experiences, I can confidently say that when it comes to overall quality, I find myself favouring a typical German clock over its American counterpart.
American mantel clocks are known for their diversity in design and style. Manufacturers like Seth Thomas, Ansonia, Waterbury, Sessions, and others have produced a wide range of mantel clocks with different aesthetic influences. The craftsmanship and attention to detail in many American mantel clocks are often praised. Some American manufacturers have a tradition of incorporating high-quality materials, such as solid wood and detailed finishes.
However, the American mantel clock market has seen fluctuations in quality over time. Some collectors and enthusiasts may argue that the mid-20th century saw a decline in craftsmanship as manufacturers faced increased competition and economic pressures.
I see this clearly in American mechanical clocks made in the 1920s and 1930s. There is a definite step downwards in quality and the goal of production seems to have been to maximize profits.
Germany has a long-standing reputation for precision engineering and quality craftsmanship, and this extends to its clockmaking industry. German mantel clocks, especially those produced by renowned manufacturers like Mauthe, Junghans, HAC, Kienzle, Gustav Becker, and others are often associated with precision movements and reliable timekeepers.
German mantel clocks are also known for their mechanical excellence and commitment to traditional clockmaking techniques. Many German clocks feature intricately designed cases and precise movements, often with a focus on accuracy and durability.
German clock manufacturers maintained their commitment to producing high-quality clocks well into the 1920s and 1930s. Instead of compromising on materials or craftsmanship, they opted to charge a premium for their clocks, ensuring that the level of quality remained consistently high.
A comparison
Let’s compare a common German mantel clock with its American counterpart. Both are in my collection.
Junghans bracket style mantel clock
The Junghans mantel clock features a design reminiscent of the popular bracket-style clocks that were fashionable several years before its production around 1915. It has a mahogany veneered case, a brass case handle, brass features below the dial, a solid brass dial bezel with beveled glass, and elegant brass feet. Its sturdy time and strike movement, known for its reliability during that era, adds to the clock’s appeal as a dependable clock for the home.
Seth Thomas time and strike with type 89 movement
The Seth Thomas clock, manufactured in the United States, showcases a case of inferior quality, a basic brass bezel, and a simulated wood veneer that imitates the appearance of exotic wood. Cost-saving to maximize profit was the ultimate priority during the period of manufacture of this clock from the early 1930s.
Despite this, the clock is equipped with the reliable and durable type 89 movement, which has proven to be bulletproof and dependable over time.
Servicing a German vs an American movement
There are pros and cons to servicing either type of movement. German time and strike movements can be a bit more intricate and finicky, especially when setting up the strike side, as lining up the parts correctly is crucial. Dealing with smaller pivots also increases the risk of damage, bending, or breaking.
Conversely, with American time and strike movements, the larger pivots minimize breakage and it requires brute strength to inflict any damage when manipulating the parts.
However crude an American movement might appear in a side-by-side comparison with a German movement, there is a notable advantage to the former. An American movement (generally speaking) can endure wear much better than a German movement, and it can continue to run effectively even when significantly worn.
That said, when both are set up correctly and any wear is mitigated both American and German movements function reliably for years.
In Summary
Both American and German mantel clocks can offer high-quality options, but individual preferences may vary based on factors like design preferences and specific features.
Collectors and enthusiasts often appreciate the historical context and craftsmanship associated with clocks from both regions.
Obviously, your source of clocks depends on where you live in the world as Canadian and American clocks are widely available to those living in North America whereas the opposite is true for European and Australian residents, for example.
One last thing to note is that precision regulators from both countries are of equal quality. Whether American or German, both exhibit equal precision and performance. They both adhere to the highest standards and can be trusted for accurate timekeeping. It’s worth noting, however, that achieving such precision comes with a correspondingly high price.
These viewpoints represent my personal opinions, and I encourage readers to delve into researching specific models and manufacturers. Making an informed decision should be based on individual preferences and priorities.
Seth Thomas is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history, and they produced a variety of clock movements over the years. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas between 1900 and 1938.
Seth Thomas mantel or shelf clock
The mantel clock in question features the Type 89 movement. Acquired in the summer of 2023, this clock boasts a simple and straightforward design.
The focus then shifted to the disassembly process and my examination of the widely-used Seth Thomas Type 89 clock movement.
My observations highlighted a replaced mainspring on the strike side, the necessity for bushing work, and indications of rust, all of which posed challenges that I committed to addressing in subsequent stages such as cleaning, bushing, oiling, and reassembly.
The focus of this blog post is the completion of servicing of this type 89 clock movement.
Front of the type 89 movementbefore disassembly
Cleaning of the mainsprings
There is always the temptation to do nothing with the mainsprings if they look acceptable. However, cleaning the mainsprings is an essential part of clock servicing. Uncoiling and wiping the dirt and grime from the mainsprings with a cloth is the preferred method, but cleaning them with an ultrasonic cleaner is also an option.
In Part I, I cleaned the mainsprings in my ultrasonic cleaner and provided a rationale for this decision. Before I go any further, I’d like to emphasize a crucial point regarding the cleaning of mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner. This practice is not recommended and should only be considered as a last resort.
While cleaning mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner has little impact on the surfaces or mechanism of the cleaner itself the oil removed from the mainsprings generates a black liquid that contaminates the cleaning solution, rendering it ineffective for future use.
Seth Thomas type 89 mainsprings, note the replacement spring on the right
Clamps have been applied to secure the mainsprings after oiling, and they’ve been set aside. Now, we move on to the next step: the bushing phase.
Backplate removed
Bushing the movement
As the movement is fully disassembled this is the stage where bushing work can be done. I commend individuals who choose to bush by hand, but personally, It is not for me.
Various systems exist for bushing, with KWM and Bergeon being the two most widely adopted. It’s worth noting that neither system is inherently superior to the other, as preferences tend to vary among enthusiasts. When referring to a “system,” it’s important to understand that the bushings from one system are not interchangeable with those from the other.
That said I use the Bergeon system.
Bergeon Bushing Machine
Before bushing, I identify all the locations requiring attention and mark them with a Sharpie. There is no permanent mark as rubbing alcohol will easily remove all traces of ink.
I have an excellent assortment of bushings and have all the required ones for this project.
An assortment of Bergeon bushings, #5488
Using cutters each hole is drilled out and chamfered, that is, removing the sharp edges to allow the pushings to be pressed in smoothly. As I insert each new bushing I test the fit by assembling the wheels to check how freely they move. This allows me to make small adjustments in the event the pivot is too tight in the bushing hole.
Cutting into a brass plate
Based on my initial assessment, the bushings for both the front and back plates of the escape wheel were the most worn. The next new bushing is the fourth wheel front plate, the one adjacent to the escape wheel. After three bushings everything looks good and the wear further down the train does not look too bad. A fourth bushing for the fourth wheel should be enough.
A cutting broach is used to enlarge any holes that are a tight fit for a pivot followed by a smoothing broach. To prepare for the wheels to go back in place all bushing holes are cleaned with pegs/toothpicks.
Test fitting the time-side wheels during the bushing process
In the photo above, the plates and gears look shinier after a session with the ultrasonic cleaner. However, it’s important to note that the main goal in clock repair isn’t to make everything as shiny as possible. The focus is on reducing wear and tear. Some dirt and grime on the plates might not come off completely during the cleaning process in every case and it is not something the clock repairer should be overly concerned with.
Back to bushing. There is a little bit of play on the second and third wheels but it is tolerable so, I think I will stop at this point.
Punching a bushing into the plate
Were I in the clock repair business I would bush everything on the time train, or the entire movement for that matter, but since I usually inspect movements in my collection every 2-3 years I can address any additional wear at that time.
On to the strike train. In the first article, I mentioned that there was not much wear on the strike side which might be attributable to that side not being wound as often. The only hole that must be addressed is the cam wheel bushing on the front plate. Why this bushing hole is worn much worse than the others is a bit of a mystery.
Okay, all the work is done for a total of five new Bergeon bushings. The holes have been pegged, and the movement is now ready to be reassembled.
The one hiccup encountered during the bushing process was the malfunction of my caliper tool. Fortunately, this isn’t a major problem, as all the Bergeon bushings are uniform at 3.5mm outside diameter, with inside diameters of either 1.4mm or 1.5mm so I knew what size to grab first.
Reassembly
When dealing with American 8-day time and strike movements, there are challenges in configuring the strike mechanism accurately. Occasionally, luck is on my side, and I manage to place the paddle in the deep slot, position the lever in the lowest part of the cam wheel, and align the warning wheel just right on the first attempt.
A useful tip. If the lever is in the lower part of the cam wheel and the paddle is not in the deep slot, simply move the toothed count wheel sideways so that it does not engage the pinon and reposition the wheel till the paddle finds the deep slot.
No luck setting up the strike this time! If the strike train does not lock correctly it will simply keep on running and you will know that soon enough.
The plates can be partially pried open without the risk of all the wheels and levers springing out. Repositioning the warning wheel involves moving the fly aside, carefully extracting the 4th wheel from its pivot hole, and rotating it a quarter turn or so to ensure the warning pin aligns with the stop lever.
Seth Thomas movement on the test stand
A minor issue with the hammer lever surfaced as it was not aligning correctly with the strike pins on the cam wheel. No disassembly of the movement is required for this adjustment. Simply loosen the bottom two nuts by the mainsprings, and the strike hammer can be removed to straighten it. After having been bent multiple times over the years, straightening it out resolved the issue.
Next, the movement is oiled with Keystone clock pivot oil and mounted on a test stand. After a week it is running and striking as it should.
And lastly, my new caliper arrived just as I was concluding the servicing on this clock.
Addendum
To properly configure the strike side, pay attention to the positioning of the levers as pointed out by the arrows.
ST movement
In the above photo, the lower arrow shows the paddle in the deep slot, and the upper arrow shows the drop lever in the indent of the cam.
Seth Thomas movement
The upper arrow shows the position of the stop pin on the stop wheel. The lower arrow shows the locking lever.
Seth Thomas is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history, and they produced a variety of clock movements over the years. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas over the years. This type was made between 1900 and 1938.
I acquired this mantel clock during the summer of 2023. From a distance, it looked very good but upon closer inspection what I thought was a rosewood veneer finish was in fact, a thin wrapper, so a bit of a disappointment.
The simple lines of this clock was the main attraction
However, the focus of this blog post is not the clock’s case but the ubiquitous type 89 clock movement found within that made its way into thousands of Seth Thomas clocks.
Disassembly
The first step is to remove the hour and minute hands. Working from the back, four case screws release the movement from its case. Things will go along more smoothly if the coiled gong is removed as well.
Looking at the back plate, the suspension spring and rod must be removed first. Then comes the regulating adjustments screw and rod which consists of releasing 3 machine screws and then pulling out the spline gear which is operated through the clock face by the small end of a double-ended winding key. Once that hardware is removed it is on to the removal of the back plate.
Aview of the movement
There are 4 nuts (plus the pendulum rod retainer screw) to be removed, however, it is advisable to unhook the helper spring at the top and the hammer spring at the bottom before lifting up the plate. This will prevent the wheels from being dislodged as the back plate is removed.
If the wheels spring out, reassembling the wheels becomes a challenging task of guesswork to determine their correct locations, especially for beginners.
Brass helper spring hooked around a post
As each part is removed place them in a hobby tray or receptacle so that nothing will be lost or misplaced. No matter what the skill level, separating the time side gears from the strike side is always a good practice.
Findings
Upon lifting the back plate, my initial observation was the replacement of the mainspring on the strike side at some point in the clock’s life.
Whenever I encounter a replaced mainspring, my immediate focus shifts to inspecting potential damage to the main wheel teeth and the lantern pinions in the second and third wheels. This is because the force of a break occasionally causes secondary damage along the gear train. This is often referred to as collateral damage. Fortunately, the components up the train in this movement are undamaged.
Backplate removed
An initial inspection of wear indicates a need for five new bushings on the time side, while only one is necessary on the strike side. Further examination may reveal more once a more detailed assessment is conducted.
Interestingly, the strike side shows less wear, indicating that it was seldom wound. My assumption is that after the repair of the mainspring, the owner decided it wasn’t worth the risk of another mainspring break and chose not to wind it frequently or at all.
More concerning is evidence of rust on the movement posts, some pivots, and the lantern pinions. The clock was obviously stored in a humid location for a period.
Mainsprings
All parts were cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner and thoroughly dried.
Despite my best efforts, I could not separate the main wheels from the mainsprings. I opted to place both the wheel and mainspring in the ultrasonic cleaner. This is not a typical practice for me as it dirties the cleaning solution and limits resue, but I intend to dispose of the cleaning solution after this servicing.
Ultrasonic cleaner
That’s all for now
Despite encountering disappointment in the clock’s case, the disassembly and findings of the ubiquitous Seth Thomas Type 89 clock movement revealed a replaced mainspring on the strike side, a need for bushing work, and evidence of rust, presenting challenges that will be addressed in the upcoming stages of cleaning, bushing work, oiling, and reassembly.
I will conclude here and save the remaining details of the servicing for a subsequent post.
During the winter months, I teach part-time in a justice program at our local community college. The other day, I had a former student visit this blog and she commented on her admiration for one of my clocks, specifically a time and strike crystal regulator by Ansonia.
Thanks, Cate for allowing me the opportunity to profile this clock once again!
American-made 4-glass clocks are commonly referred to as crystal regulators
First a history of how I acquired the clock and what I know about it. While exploring an antique shop in Bloomfield, Ontario, my wife came across an intriguing find – an antique glass-cased brass time-and-strike American-made clock with an open Brocot escapement, manufactured by Ansonia.
This particular clock, featured in the 1905 Ansonia catalog under the name “Prism,” was priced at $29.00, a substantial sum for its time. It was the simplest design in the crystal regulator line and the lowest-priced model.
Collectors in the clock world frequently have discussions regarding the proper name for these clocks. Are they four-glass clocks or crystal regulators?
Ansonia Crystal Regulatorshowing the Brocot escapementwith jeweled pallets
A “four-glass clock” is a broader term referring to clocks with glass panels on all four sides, while a “crystal regulator” is a more specific subtype of mantel clock known for its transparent glass panels and often associated with high-quality craftsmanship. The primary differences lie in the design, purpose, and origin. The term “crystal regulator” is used specifically for American clocks that fall under the broader category of four-glass clocks, distinguished by transparent panels on all sides. Conversely, a French-made clock with a similar appearance is generally referred to simply as a four-glass clock.
The pendulum vials contain nickel slugs
While both types typically feature Brocot escapements, there’s a notable distinction in the pendulum design. Many four-glass French clocks incorporated mercury-filled pendulum vials, whereas American crystal regulators utilized nickel slugs within transparent vials.
American Crystal Regulators were essentially replicas of French regulators, boasting similar design elements such as a stylistic gong block, visible Brocot escapements, round movement plates, and beveled glass panels. However, they were an economical alternative to the French clock.
French regulators, crafted by high-profile makers like Japy, Marti, Vincenti, and Mougin, were highly esteemed and often included mercury pendulums. In the American market, Ansonia and Seth Thomas were prominent manufacturers of such clocks. They were not built to the higher standards of a French clock and were priced accordingly. Nonetheless, American Crystal Regulators have become sought-after by clock collectors.
American-made 4-glass clocks are commonly referred to as crystal regulators
The four glass panels of this clock are in very good shape, with only a small corner chip on one panel, which I discovered a few days after purchasing the clock. Fortunately, the chip is not visible from the front. The glass was likely damaged during a servicing session.
Overall, the clock is in good condition for its age and was made somewhere between 1905 and 1910. The brass, though tarnished, cleaned up nicely with the use of a cleaner. The brass was also lacquered to maintain its shine and protect it from deterioration.
On the bench and before disassembly
Upon acquiring the clock, it was not in running order, and my initial evaluation suggested that all it might require was a thorough cleaning and some bushing work. There was certainly a small amount of wear and the movement required 5 bushings, all on the front plate.
After disassembling, cleaning, and addressing wear, it ran without issue. Now, it’s one of several clocks that run weekly.
I would have to say it is one of the more unique clocks in my collection.
For years, my wife and I have been on the hunt for an elusive Arthur Pequegnat Hall clock, a prized possession among Canadian collectors. Recently, I stumbled upon what seemed like the jackpot—a seemingly authentic piece advertised for a mere $100. However, as I explored the deal further, doubts crept in, casting a shadow over my potential bargain.
Join me on this intriguing journey as we uncover the secrets of a clock that may not be what it initially appeared to be.
It certainly looks like a weight-driven clock
The clock is closely reminiscent of Pequegnat’s craftsmanship. It was a tempting find but a closer inspection raised eyebrows. The clock hands seemed out of place (for a Pequegnat), and the overall workmanship did not quite match the renowned Pequegnat build quality. Could this have been a misstep in our quest, or was there more to this story?
Undeterred I made an over-the-phone offer of $90 and embarked on a 90-minute journey to claim what could be a gem in disguise. The seller warned of a non-functioning clock but sweetened the deal by mentioning that it had weights—only to reveal later that the weights were, in fact, fake. On top of that, a spring-driven New Haven mechanical movement lay beneath the surface.
New Haven time and strike movement
The weight cans were empty shells, and the decent-quality ladder chains with acorn pull ends were crudely strung to mimic a weight-driven movement.
Brass weight shells
Further investigation unveiled a raised platform supporting the movement, yet no traces of a seat board that usually accompanies weight-driven mechanisms. The clock’s peculiarities extended to a tied cord on the strike lever, adding to the mystery. As questions piled up, it became clear that this clock’s origins were far from conventional.
The movement is stamped 27. This could be a date stamp but it is more likely the length of the pendulum in inches. The movement plates are pinned rather than held with screws or nuts suggesting an older square-aperture type New Haven movement. Judging from the build of the movement I would say that it is earlier than 1927. The heavy, solid wood case which comes apart in three sections is certainly just as old.
I removed the movement from its case and mounted it on a test stand. The movement runs at 72 bpm, not quite the 60 bpm one would typically expect from a hall clock and the slower beat rate explains the long pendulum rod.
The only plausible explanation was clear: I had purchased a kit clock, where an independently crafted case had been paired with a New Haven movement, dial face, hands, accessory weight cans, and ladder chains with acorn pull ends. It was likely a more cost-effective means of acquiring a tall case clock back in the day.
In its new location
Despite the oddities, I had, after all, secured the clock at a reasonable price. Now, armed with the knowledge of its peculiarities, I am content with it. Servicing the movement and restoring the case have been completed and after having stood in my work area for a couple of years it was time to move it to its permanent location.
And it looks pretty good! The combination of the separately crafted case with the New Haven movement, dial face, hands, and the accessory weight cans and ladder chains with pull ends came together quite well, offering an appealing and budget-friendly tall case clock.
The lesson in all of this is that in the world of clock collecting, sometimes unexpected discoveries and not value and authenticity are the ones that leave a lasting impression.
The Seth Thomas Clock Company, renowned for its long history dating back to the early 19th century, produced a variety of clock movements over the years, and among them is the Type 89 movement found in this clock.
Despite the absence of a specific year stamp, the clock’s design and construction suggest a manufacturing date in the mid to late 1930s. Upon initial inspection, it was evident that the clock was not functioning, a common issue with old clocks that have not run in years.
From afar the wood finish is striking
Typically, clock movements face challenges related to low power output caused by wear and tear over time. The gradual deterioration of clocks during years of operation is often attributed to factors such as dirt accumulation, inadequate lubrication, and the lack of proper adjustments.
Although dirt accumulation can persist in a movement, causing friction and wear, I decided to see if I could get the clock to run. The process involved removing the hour and minute hands, releasing four screws securing the movement to the front of the case, removing the strike block, and taking the movement out of its case.
Type 89 movement
An initial inspection revealed no visible issues with either the time or the strike side. Both mainsprings were found to be wound tight and seemingly ceased, likely due to the accumulation of glue-like dirt between the coils that will prevent the clock from running.
Seth Thomas time and strike 8-day movement
To reduce tension on the mainsprings and provide the necessary energy for the clock to start running, an unwinding of the mainspring was performed using a let-down set. Oil was also applied to the pivots, as a temporary solution. Mixing new and old oil is never a good idea as a harmful abrasive paste is produced that could accelerate wear on the pivots and bushing holes. The plan, therefore, was not to run the clock for an extended period but merely to see if it could run.
While relaxing the mainsprings enabled the movement to run strongly, an issue persisted on the strike side, necessitating further investigation. Despite this, no major issues were anticipated, and the next steps will involve disassembly, thorough cleaning, any remediation, reassembly, and testing.
But first, let’s look at the case.
The case
This clock caught my eye at a thrift shop in Renfrew, Ontario, Canada, primarily due to its attractive appearance with what seemed to be rosewood veneer. Intrigued and encouraged by the reputable Seth Thomas trademark, I decided to make the purchase, especially given the appealing price.
However, upon closer inspection at home, I discovered that what I initially believed to be genuine rosewood was actually a thin layer of faux wood wrapping, and to my disappointment, some of it was peeling off in a couple of very visible areas, the worst by the bezel catch.
The worn and peeling section is adjacent to the bezel catch
There might be speculation about whether the movement was reinstalled in a newer case, but my inclination is that this is how it originally left the factory. What the Seth Thomas company might have considered new and improved and would likely fool most consumers was but a cheap imitation.
It is clearly a cost-cutting measure rather than a later modification. Many clock companies faced financial difficulties during the Depression Years of the 1930s, leading them to seek cost-saving measures but honestly, this discovery is rather disheartening.
Nevertheless, the clock holds value because of the movement, which still has many years left. Join me later as we dismantle the clock movement and address any required repairs.
In the first segment of this two-part series, I detailed the assessment process of this Sessions time-only movement, which can be accessed here. This article explores the next steps in the servicing of this clock movement. I will also offer in-depth observations regarding the case’s condition and comment on any additional issues that have emerged subsequent to the assessment phase.
Sessions Schoolhouse clock
Two years ago, I acquired this Sessions schoolhouse clock at an auction with the intention of adding it to my collection of similar 19-inch clocks. The purpose behind this acquisition was to create a set of “time zone” clocks, as my children are scattered across the country. This setup allows me to easily glance up and determine the time in their respective areas.
The back of the movement
In the initial assessment of the movement, I anticipated no significant surprises or wear due to the prior work done on it.
To disassemble for inspection, I removed the movement from the case. Using a let-down key, I restrained the mainspring with a C-clamp and then removed the 4 bolts holding the movement together. After taking out the mainspring, I inspected the remaining parts for wear. I observed slight elongated wear on the second wheel bushing hole but found no major issues requiring remediation. Further examination revealed minimal grime in the pivot holes and a lack of lubricating oil. Overall, the movement showed little wear.
And now, on to servicing the movement.
Using an emery board to polish the pivots
Using my Taig lathe I polished each of the pivots. Polishing methods may differ but I prefer to use a fine-grain emery board. Emery boards are affordable and ideal for the task at hand. I slide the emery board horizontally while the pivot rotates within the lathe and clean off any residue on the pivots with a soft cloth.
All components are immersed in the ultrasonic cleaner, and after approximately 15 minutes in the cleaning solution, the parts are removed and thoroughly dried using a gentle cloth and a hairdryer to eliminate any remaining water within the lantern pinions.
Since there’s no requirement for bushing work, the procedure remains straightforward, and the components are reassembled after the drying is completed.
Once all the parts are together the pivots, entrance & exit pallets, saddle pin, mainspring arbour, and crutch loop are oiled using Keystone clock oil.
After assembly, the movement undergoes a testing period, which may extend for days or even weeks. However, for this particular time-only movement, because of its simplicity, the testing duration is shorter.
The case and dial
The case is very well-preserved, devoid of the typical dents and marks often encountered on clocks from this time period. Cleaning with soap and water will suffice.
I only realized that the entire dial face, except for the chapter ring, had been repainted after I started loosening the screws for the dial bezel. I hadn’t noticed this previously and had assumed it was a replacement dial because it appeared to be in such good condition. Achieving this required a steady hand, and as a result, it looks very well done.
Repainted dial face
Despite the care and attention given to preserving the movement and case, it is noteworthy that the hands are incorrect. Sessions would have originally used solid spade hands instead of pierced ones, and, naturally, both the hour and minute hands are too short.
On the test stand
The test stand
While on the test stand, I had to make two adjustments to the recoil escapement. The entry and exit pallets were too far from the escape wheel which necessitated moving the saddle slightly in towards the escape wheel. This is the drop most often referred to and it can be visualized as the airspace between the leading corner of a tooth point and the part of the pallet it is about to fall on. The other is a crutch adjustment to bring the movement to the correct beat.
Two days on the testing stand prove to be adequate, and the final step involves reinstalling the movement back into its case.
Two years ago, I acquired this Sessions schoolhouse clock at an auction with the intention of adding it to my collection of similar 19-inch clocks. The purpose behind this acquisition was to create a set of “time zone” clocks, as my children are scattered across the country. This setup allows me to easily glance up and determine the time in their respective areas.
Three time zone clocks. The centre clock is the subject of this article
In this blog series, I will first guide readers through the assessment process, providing a detailed account of my findings. In the second part, the next blog article, I will walk you through the movement’s servicing and testing phase.
This clock belongs to the schoolhouse clock style. The origin of the name “schoolhouse clock” is not well-documented, and it appears that the term was not used during the time these clocks were made. Instead, it was later coined by collectors to describe a particular style of clock commonly found in school settings.
Sessions Drop Octagon bob
Schoolhouse clocks were the standard design for early North American schoolhouses due to their larger, easy-to-read dials. They were widely hung in schoolrooms across Canada and often had simple time-only movements, although some versions included a calendar function or time and strike movements. These clocks had a utilitarian look and were known for their durability.
The design of schoolhouse clocks is believed to be influenced by English drop dial fusee clocks, which were produced in the late 18th and 19th centuries. Drop dials closely resembled schoolhouse clocks and featured conical constructions with a chain or gut line pulled by a mainspring barrel, providing even power release for improved accuracy. Complicated movements such as these did not find their way into inexpensive mass-produced American and Canadian schoolhouse clocks.
Label on the back of the clock
However, not all of these clocks spent their lives in schoolhouses. The back label bears the stamp “Office,” indicating that in addition to school settings, these clocks were also used by small businesses in retail areas or in office settings.
Assessing the condition of the movement
The clock was in working order when I received it. When I removed the dial which is held by 4 brass screws I was delighted to find the movement to be very clean and in very good condition overall.
The movement has been worked on in the past as there are 2 new bushings on the back plate, the number 3 wheel, and the escape wheel bushing. On the front, one bushing on the escape wheel bridge was replaced.
In addition the click spring, both click and wire have been replaced. A note to those working on Sessions time-only and Sessions time and strike clocks from this era: it’s important to be aware of the company’s history of poorly designed click springs. Therefore, it’s not unexpected to find this one replaced.
Back of movement
The suspension spring and pendulum leader have also been replaced. The mainspring has the letters MB stamped on the arbour loop which leads me to believe that it may be a replacement. In all, the work was completed by a competent repairer, in my view.
There is no oil remaining in the pivot holes as the oil has dried up completely. Further running of this movement as-is is a recipe for accelerated wear. Finding the right balance is crucial when applying oil. Excessive oil can attract dust and dirt, transforming it into grinding paste, whereas too little can lead to premature drying of the pivots. In general, however, the old adage holds true: less is more!
Disassembly
In view of the work done on this movement in the past, I am not expecting any further surprises or appreciable wear as I disassemble the movement.
To disassemble the movement, first remove the movement from its case. There are 4 screws holding the movement to the backboard and once released the movement easily comes out. Using a let-down key, the mainspring is restrained by a C-clamp and the 4 bolts holding the movement together can be easily removed with a slotted screwdriver. The mainspring is then taken out after which a further inspection takes place.
Next, I check for wear by removing the mainspring and reattaching the top plate with all wheels, including the escape wheel, in place. By spinning the wheels I can visualize how each wheel interacts with the adjacent one. There were no surprises but there is very slight elongated wear on the second wheel bushing hole, back plate but not enough to be concerned about at this point.
Before cleaning the movement in the ultrasonic machine I begin by pegging the holes using toothpicks. My objective at this point is to determine how much dirt and grime are present in the pivot holes. Not surprisingly there was very little grime but again the absence of any lubricating oil. I then checked each pivot for unusual signs of wear and in the case of this movement, there was little, if any, wear.
Well, that is all for now.
An upcoming article will delve deeper into the ongoing process of servicing this clock movement. Additionally, I will provide insights into the condition of the case and address any other issues that might have surfaced during the assessment stage.
Recently, I acquired a gallery clock in exchange for another clock. I favour wall clocks over other types due to their convenient wall placement, eliminating the need for a shelf or mantel. Additionally, they tend to draw more attention compared to other clock varieties.
The clock I traded, a rare Canadian cottage clock, held significant value, but overall, I am content with the exchange.
Gilbert gallery clock
Gallery clocks are often called pub clocks, canteen clocks, or office clocks.
Gallery clocks are often found in public galleries and exhibition spaces, where they serve both functional and decorative purposes. They are usually placed on prominent walls and are designed to be easily visible to visitors. These clocks can vary in style, ranging from antique designs with Roman numerals to more modern and contemporary styles with sleek, minimalist features.
This time-only gallery-style clock made by the Gilbert Company of USA is nondescript and quite ordinary looking. There is nothing special or distinctive about it.
The casing of the clock is relatively light in weight and based on the wood’s coloration, it seems to be made of cherry wood. A previous owner meticulously refinished the case, and while the result is impressive, it appears almost too flawless.
The clock has a 12″ Arabic dial and is 16 1/2″ across with spade hour hand and minute hand with a heavy brass dial bezel. The dial is constructed from paper and lacks a metal backing, clearly indicating a cost-saving measure.
A 12-inch dial is considered the standard size for a gallery clock and a 12-inch dial would have been the maximum size for a domestic environment. I own a smaller 10″ gallery clock, crafted in England, equipped with a conventional spring-driven movement, specifically designed for placement in a compact office setting. Larger 14″ and 16″-inch” gallery clocks on the other hand would have been found in public areas, factories, and post offices.
At first glance, it’s easy to mistake this conventional spring-driven pendulum clock for a fusee clock. Upon closer inspection, however, its features set it apart from the traditional fusee clock, revealing its true identity as an ordinary mass-produced spring-driven time-only American-made clock.
Movement as seen from the trap door
The winding arbour sits just below the central cannon, and above the centre cannon, you’ll find the Gilbert trademark. Interestingly, the winding arbour is positioned in the same location as that of a typical fusee gallery clock.
This specific movement is present in other Gilbert time-only clocks and is almost identical to the one used in the Gilbert Admiral calendar clock.
Time-only movementGilbert Admiral with calendar
A trap door on the bottom provides access to the pendulum. When the clock is hung on the wall, attaching the pendulum to the pendulum rod is nearly impossible. I discovered that laying the clock on its back, attaching the pendulum bob to the hook, and then carefully mounting the clock on the wall is a slightly easier method.
The trap door opens to reveal the pendulum bob
The previous owner found the clock in Virginia and brought it to Canada. The clock was lacking its original glass, but a replacement was included as part of the exchange deal. In addition, the clock was completely serviced, one bushing hole was found to be enlarged and a new bushing was installed.
Two other gallery clocks
The two other gallery clocks in my collection are a clock with a 10″ dial made by a British maker, Empire, and a 12-inch (dial) fusee clock, maker unknown but likely British.
12 ” Fusee clock10″ gallery clock made in England by Empire
Given that the Gilbert clock underwent a thorough servicing and the missing glass was replaced, my only task remained to find a suitable spot to display it.
During its prime, the Seth Thomas company produced exquisite clocks, and in my view, clocks from the 1870s stand out as the pinnacle of their craftsmanship. This particular clock embodies the design aesthetics of its era, lending it a timeless and enduring appeal.
Seth Thomas round topwith its vibrant Rosewood case
The clock boasts a sizable round top design, measuring 15 inches in height, 10 inches in width at the base, and 4 inches in depth. Encased in a visually appealing Rosewood veneer, and it features a mirrored rectangular lower tablet. Some variants have clear glass, but the original design likely incorporated mirrored glass.
The wood grain is exceptionally bold and eye-catching. A missing sliver of veneer between the 9 and 12 o’clock positions on the bezel, which was absent when I acquired the clock in 2019 at an NAWCC clock convention in the United States, has been faithfully restored.
The clock’s distinctive charm is amplified by its unique stylized hands, adorned with an “S” on the minute hand and a “T” on the hour hand. The clock dial seems too well-preserved to be original although the replacement (?) dial displays the Seth Thomas trademark just below the centre cannon.
8-day Lyre movement tightly mounted in its case
What truly sets this clock apart is its elegant lyre 8-day time and strike spring-driven movement, accompanied by a bell gong with an alarm function. This movement, seemingly stuffed into the case, reveals its intricate workings when the dial mount is removed. The remarkable engineering of the movement is a testament to its adaptability, enabling it to be mounted in a wide variety of clock cases. Nevertheless, as mentioned, it is a tight fit.
The movement proudly bears the die-stamped inscription “S. Thomas, Plymouth Conn.” and is equipped withGeneva stops (or stop-works)for enhanced timekeeping accuracy, a feature often absent in many antique clocks of that period.
Unlike many contemporary clocks, the movement plates are held together with taper pins, reflecting a common practice of the era. The alarm mechanism, situated just below and to the left of the movement is wound by the small end of a double side key. There is an alarm adjustment wheel on the centre cannon with a cam that activates the alarm and once set runs the alarm spring down till the alarm stops which necessitates rewinding each night. The alarm emits a piercing shrill as it strikes the iron bell gong. As the average household had just one clock the sound of the alarm was designed to resonate throughout the entire home.
The movement is mounted on the back of the case using wooden blocks at the top and bottom. To access the movement, the rear panel must be unscrewed, revealing the internal workings.
8-day Lyre movement with Geneva stops
Inside the case, a well-preserved label declares, ”Spring Brass Eight Day Clocks”, “Made and Sold by Seth Thomas, Thomaston, Connecticut”. While slightly weathered in the lower right corner due to minor water staining, the label predominantly remains intact, adding good context to this attractive shelf clock.
After being stored away for 2 years, I recently dusted off the clock and applied a layer of Minwax finishing paste wax. The plan is to display the clock prominently in my home once again.
Undoubtedly, this simple time and strike clock with alarm stands out as one of the most captivating pieces in my collection, embodying the artistry and ingenuity of Seth Thomas clocks from the latter part of the 19th century.
In 2018, while exploring Ontario (Canada), I came across a Seth Thomas Regulator #2 in an antique shop in Bloomfield, just a short drive from Picton, a prominent center in Prince Edward County known for its numerous wineries.
I had my eye on this clock when I viewed it online over the summer and carefully contemplated the purchase before finally acquiring it in the fall of 2018. These clocks are somewhat rare to find, but the price was reasonable, and the clock itself was in very good condition.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
The Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was recognizable at one time as one of the most commonly seen regulator clocks in America. It graced many railway stations across both the US and Canada throughout the last century, a testament to its accuracy and reliability. It is a sturdy, precise, well-crafted timepiece that Seth Thomas produced from 1860 to 1950, an impressive 90-year production run. Few clocks can boast such longevity, making it an iconic American clock that every serious clock collector desires.
The design of the #2 remained largely unchanged over the years, but certain design characteristics can help in dating a specific clock. The identification guide below outlines characteristics of the dial and case that assist in estimating the year of manufacture. A clock colleague cautioned me against placing excessive trust in the chart, but I am satisfied with using rough estimates.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2 ID chart
With the exception of its distinctive base, most #2s produced after the earliest versions had the pendulum mounted in the rear. The chart also mentions a limited reissue in 1976. While the reissue is well-crafted and aesthetically pleasing, most Seth Thomas enthusiasts would argue that it doesn’t quite compare to an authentic Regulator #2, and the prices for these versions reflect that sentiment. Nevertheless, those who own the reissue appear to be satisfied with their acquisition.
According to the chart, my clock was likely made between 1922 and 1929. It features a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2, Arabic numerals, and spade hands. The bow tie connecting the wood dial bezel and the drop is a single piece (earlier versions had a three-piece bow tie). The clock has a second hand positioned 2 inches above the center cannon, but it’s not a true second hand; it runs off the escapement, taking 80 beats to complete a “minute.” Standing at 36 ½ inches tall, it’s veneered in mahogany.
The bottom right of the movement bears the stamp “77A” with the letter “K” beneath it, although it lacks other distinctive markings. Unlike some versions of the 77 movement that have lantern pinions, this one has cut pinions. Whether one type of pinion is better than the other is open to debate.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2 showing some marks on the face
As with any item nearly 100 years old, there were some issues with the clock. There is minor scuffing on the dial, no label, a finish that has lost its luster, and paint splatter on the top of the case (though not visible from most any angle). Taking down a clock while painting a room is a simple decision in my view, but some individuals prefer painting around it.
I transported this clock from Ontario to Nova Scotia by car, and removing the pendulum for transportation is not a straightforward process. If you are familiar with the pendulum arrangement on a typical weight-driven Vienna Regulator clock, this one is similar. Removing the weight is as simple as unhooking it from the cable wheel. Like Viennas, the pendulum is hung behind the movement, and both the weight and movement must be removed to access the pendulum since the pendulum must be removed for transport.
Seth Thomas #2 movement in place
The steps to remove the pendulum are as follows. First, the clock hands are removed. The minute hand is secured with a nut, which must be released. The second hand is a friction fit and can be pulled straight off.
There are eight small screws holding the dial in place. Once the dial is off, two larger screws on the wooden second-hand rail can be removed to access the movement. Four cylindrical column posts secure the movement in place; unscrewing them, starting with the bottom two, allows the movement to be lifted/pulled out. Once the movement is out, the pendulum can be unhooked from its suspension spring. The entire process takes less than five minutes.
The trapezoid 77A movement in this clock appeared clean when I first opened the case. There were signs of previous work, such as punch marks around some pivot holes, a common practice frowned upon today. The deadbeat escapement was in good condition and did not require adjustment. Otherwise, the movement looked to be in very good condition.
Seth Thomas #2 with escapement removed. Observe the numerous punch marks
Getting the clock to run reliably presented a challenge, and it took about a week to troubleshoot and resolve the issue. It eventually became clear that the issue lay in the positioning of the hands with the second hand obstructing the hour hand. I remounted the dial ensuring there was sufficient clearance between the second hand and the hour hand and it ran smoothly thereafter.
Regulating the clock is a relatively straightforward process, achieved by adjusting the rating nut on the bottom of the pendulum. This clock must be level and properly aligned to function correctly.
Time for servicing
In the spring of 2021, the clock began to stop intermittently. It would operate for 5-10 minutes before coming to a halt. I had replaced the suspension spring two weeks earlier and thought I had addressed the issue but clearly, I had not.
Seth Thomas #2 suspension spring
The clock’s apparent simplicity masks the tight tolerances it requires, and any signs of wear have the potential to cause the clock to cease functioning. Despite being a time-only movement with few gears I do not believe this is a good movement for the novice clock repairer.
I installed three bushings on the back plate; the second, and third wheels, and the escape wheel, and two on the front; third wheel, the escape wheel, and the verge pivot hole front plate.
Seth Thomas #2 movement
At the time I also discovered a slightly bent third-wheel arbour that did not take much effort to straighten.
While the movement was out of the case I replaced the maintaining power spring. I’m unsure if I’ve resolved the clunking sound the clock produced when I wound it previously because I now must turn the key crank in the opposite direction for a quarter turn to adjust the maintaining spring to avoid the clunk.
I also replaced the old cable with a 3/64-inch brass-weight cable. One aspect of the brass cable that I particularly appreciate is its nylon core, which prevents it from coiling. Polishing the pendulum bob and weight enhanced its overall appearance.
Since 2021 it has been running very well and keeping accurate time.
While these clocks were constructed robustly and designed for demanding environments, running for extended periods without the need for maintenance, there is still a requirement for periodic servicing. When I obtained the clock, it quite likely had gone without servicing for a considerable duration, and the maintenance performed in 2021 was certainly long overdue.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
Still, I am happy with the purchase of this clock. At present, it adorns the front hallway of our home, adding a touch of elegance to the entrance.
This clock is a splendid addition to our home’s front entrance, with a rich and storied history. While its exact whereabouts over the past 100 years remains a mystery, it remains a remarkable clock.
Why does a mechanical clock movement require servicing? The answer is quite straightforward. Maintaining your clock’s movement is essential to ensure it continues to function properly and extends its lifespan.
Regular servicing reduces wear and tear, ultimately preserving the clock’s functionality. Ideally, most clocks should undergo servicing every three to five years to maximize longevity.
Seth Thomas mantel clock C.1930
This article outlines the seven steps I typically follow when servicing an antique or vintage clock movement, using a common American, pendulum-driven movement as an example, Seth Thomas’s Type 86 8-day time and strike movement.
Step 1 – Initial Assessment: Upon receiving a clock, my first task is to determine if it runs. I assess whether it runs and strikes correctly and completes its full 8-day cycle. If it operates for fewer than 8 days, there may be an underlying power problem, which could stem from various factors like weakened mainsprings, worn bushing holes, bent arbours, and so on but more often than not a good cleaning will improve its run time even if there is some wear in the movement.
The movement is mounted to the front of the clock
Step 2 – Addressing non-running clocks: When the clock does not run, I conduct an examination to identify potential issues such as missing or broken components, bent wheel assemblies, and arbours, damaged or worn gear teeth, worn pinions, snapped mainsprings, and broken or broken clicks along with any missing parts like suspension springs or pendulum bobs.
Nevertheless, when all components are intact and the mainsprings appear to be in good condition, I take measures to ensure the clock is properly adjusted for an even beat.
I’ve observed that on many occasions, the mainsprings are wound tightly, and relieving this tension tends to address the problem (albeit temporarily), allowing the clock to operate relatively smoothly. However, if it stops running soon after starting, I note the problem areas and set it aside for servicing.
Step 3 – Disassembly and assessment: After removing the hands, dial face, and taking the movement out of the case (4 screws hold the type 86 in place), I conduct a thorough visual inspection. This step involves checking for damage, dirt, and excess oil, and determining the extent of cleaning required.
Type 86 time and strike movement
I use retaining clamps to safely secure the mainsprings’ power and then proceed with disassembling the movement. Disassembly includes removing outboard parts such as the crutch and suspension rod, releasing the four or five bolts holding the plates in place, and proceeding to remove the wheels and levers.
I assess wear in various areas, including pinions, pivot holes, arbor conditions, and connections between plates and pillars. I also look for tool marks and indications of previous servicing.
Step 4 – Cleaning the parts: Cleaning the clock movement parts is crucial, and I prefer using an ultrasonic cleaner. I use a mildalkaline, biodegradable degreaserconcentrate for cleaning. I organize the parts in compartments for easy identification, with strike parts separated from time-side parts.
Deox 007 is a concentrate.
For open-loop mainsprings such as the type 86, I detach them from the main wheel before cleaning. To guarantee that the mainwheels and springs are reinstalled in their original spots, I mark them with either “T” or “S” for clear identification.
Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R
Drying the parts promptly is vital to prevent rust formation. I use shop towels and a portable hair dryer to ensure all areas are dry. Lantern pinions tend to be especially difficult to dry and a hair dryer is an ideal tool to remove excess water.
After cleaning, I inspect the cleaning solution and, if suitable, reuse it.
Step 5 – Polishing pivots: The next step involves polishing the pivots. If the pivots are in good condition, a few passes with an emery board are sufficient. A small metal lathe is ideal but a portable drill will do.
Taig lathe with 1/4 hp motor
For pitted pivots, more aggressive cleaning and polishing may be necessary, and in extreme cases, pivot replacement may be required. Cleaning and wiping the pivots with a soft cloth is essential, followed by bushing if needed.
Step 6 – Bushing, broaching, and pegging pivot holes: I determine which pivot holes need bushing by assessing lateral pivot movement and marking each one (with a black marker) to be bushed.
Bergeon Bushing Machine
I use a Bergeon bushing machine known for its precise work. After making the bush hole, I clean it from chips and burrs, followed by broaching if necessary. In the process, bothcutting and smoothing broaches are used to ensure an optimum fit.
A hole is enlarged with acutter to accommodate a new bushing
All pivot holes are pegged with toothpicks until no residue remains.
Step 7 – Making necessary repairs: Other potential repairs include re-pivoting, straightening or replacing wheel teeth, sourcing parts, making new parts, and addressing issues with worn lantern pinions and escapement components.
Step 8 – Reassembly, testing, and adjustment: Finally, I reassemble the clock movement, carefully securing the gears and levers in place. I use a pivot locator to move the pivots to their correct location. Once reassembled, the movement goes through a testing process and adjustment on a test stand, ensuring it is in beat and properly regulated. This testing phase can take up to a month before returning the movement to its case.
A movement on a test stand. Attached is a microphone for a beat amplifier
In conclusion, servicing antique or vintage clocks significantly extends their lifespan. These seven steps provide a general guideline for clock movement servicing, though some steps may require further explanation, and individual procedures may vary among clockmakers.
The Seth Thomas Clock Company is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history dating back to the early 19th century. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas over the years. This type was made between 1900 and 1938.
This is a first look at the movement of a Seth Thomas time and strike mantel clock with a type 89 movement. Since there is no year stamp on the clock movement I am surmising that this clock was manufactured in the mid to late 1930s judging from its design and construction.
Discovered at a thrift shop in Renfrew, Ontario, the clock was not functioning initially.
Generally speaking, a clock movement faces issues with low power output caused by friction resulting from wear over time. The primary issue with aging clocks is their gradual deterioration due to extended periods of operation. Common culprits are dirt accumulation, insufficient lubrication, and lack of proper adjustments, although these are unlikely to be the reasons for the malfunction.
Interestingly, a dirty movement often continues to function even without lubrication if it’s in decent condition. There is no doubt that this movement requires bushing work to address accelerated wear, yet regrettably, I do not currently have access to the necessary bushing tools for the task as I am on holiday.
Despite the accumulation of grime, and potential wear-related concerns, I opted to put the movement into action, primarily with the goal of uncovering underlying issues. Doing this required removing the hour and minute hands, releasing 4 screws holding the movement to the front of the case, removing the strike block, and taking the movement out of its case.
Once on the work bench an initial inspection of the movement did not reveal any obvious issues with either the time or the strike side, so, it was safe to proceed further. When found both mainsprings on this time and strike movement were wound tight and appeared ceased likely as a result of the build-up of glue-like dirt between the coils of the mainsprings.
I have found that in some cases gently unwinding the coils of mainsprings with a let-down set can often relieve enough tension to provide a clock with the necessary energy to start running but there was one more step in the process.
A letdown set is required in order to release the mainsprings
Although there was a noticeable amount of dirt around the pivots, I applied oil to each one. However, it’s important to be cautious about mixing new and old oil, as their interaction can result in the formation of a harmful abrasive paste, which can speed up wear on both the pivots and the bushing holes.
Thus, while oiling a dirty movement is a temporary solution, it’s not a replacement for proper disassembly, thorough cleaning, and addressing wear issues.
As a result of releasing the mainspring, oiling the pivots, and putting the movement in beat, it now runs strongly. However, there is something amiss with the strike side and further investigation is required. Despite this, I am not anticipating major issues with this movement.
The next step is disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, and testing. Should it require bushing work, that step will have to wait a while longer.
I have every confidence that this movement will run very well once serviced.
During my visit to a fellow enthusiast of antique and vintage clocks, I was graciously presented with a complimentary schoolhouse clock.
New Haven time-only schoolhouse clock
Although I wasn’t anticipating it to be in pristine condition, I gladly accepted the schoolhouse clock as a project, knowing that it would require some restoration work.
I own multiple wall clocks, among them are several schoolhouse clocks, and am amazed that they run so well after many decades. These clocks, known for their durability, continue to function reliably even in well-worn condition.
The clock’s manufacturer is New Haven, and it is a time-only clock featuring a twelve-inch Roman Numeral dial and a short drop design. What makes it particularly interesting is the reverse painted glass that allows the moving pendulum bob to be visible.
As for the construction, the clock’s case is crafted from softwood, elegantly adorned with Rosewood veneer on all the visible sections.
A robust time-only movement
During my holiday, I had limited time to work on the clock, but I did take the opportunity to inspect its movement and clean the case. I found the movement to be in very good condition with minimal wear. However, I did notice that there was an absence of lubricating oil. To ensure the clock’s optimal performance and to minimize further wear, I took the necessary step of re-oiling it before placing it back into its case.
The clock does have some veneer issues, especially noticeable in the bottom section of the short drop. I plan to address and repair these veneer problems when I have both the time and the necessary resources to do so properly.
Additionally, there are minor losses on the dial face, but I’ve decided to leave them as they are for now. While they may be imperfections, they also add character and a sense of history to the clock, so I believe preserving them in their current state will maintain the clock’s unique charm.
As my holiday schedule didn’t allow for a comprehensive repair, I made a mental note of wear issues that require attention. Upon my return when I have more time available, I intend to address these wear issues, particularly focusing on one or two bushings that need immediate attention. This approach will help maintain the clock’s accuracy and prevent any further damage.
Once I have the opportunity and means to address these repairs and restorations, I will ensure the clock regains its original beauty and functionality while retaining the traces of its past that make it special.
Approximately two years ago, I stumbled upon a weight-driven banjo clock listed on Facebook Marketplace. Before finalizing the purchase, I engaged in a conversation with the seller, who appeared to have limited knowledge about the clock’s value. The clock was among several items that the seller’s family was parting with, and it was evident that they didn’t have any sentimental attachment to it, despite it being in their possession for several decades.
To my surprise, the clock was remarkably intact, with only minor veneer issues. Apart from routine servicing of the movement, the clock required repairing the small sections of veneer and mounting it securely on the wall.
Banjo clock attributed to John Sawin of Boston 1840
I only needed to replace one bushing in the movement, and that resolved the only wear issue.
New bushing
However, the hands of the clock posed some challenges on a couple of occasions. Firstly, the minute hand became loose and wouldn’t advance properly. Upon investigation, I discovered that the hand was not securely attached to the minute wheel. I resolved this by using a slightly larger taper pin to tighten it.
Banjo clock
Later on, the hour hand started causing problems as well. It became loose and wouldn’t advance correctly. The minute hand, the hour hand doesn’t have a collar as you would find on a conventional mass-produced American clock and relies on friction to fit onto the top section of the hour pipe. There isn’t much room to work within this area, and it’s either too tight or too loose. Tightening the hour hand requires carefully punching the inside of the hole to make it smaller. Once again, due to the limited space available, this was a challenging task.
The hands stayed in place and now to test the movement for any issues.
While I do not operate a clock business I have, in the past, worked on other people’s clocks.
The customer’s perspective and preferences are always paramount when it comes to repairing and restoring antique clocks. As an antique clock blogger and clock repairer, I believe it is crucial to respect and understand the wishes of the clock’s owner. Each customer may have their own unique vision for their clock, and it is important to provide them with options while also offering expert advice.
When working on a customer’s clock, it is customary to present various options for repairing the movement and addressing any case issues. While some clocks may have significant provenance or historical value, necessitating minimal intervention, others may benefit from repairs and cleaning to bring out their full potential. However, it is ultimately the customer’s decision on how they want their clock to be treated.
In a recent experience, I had the opportunity to work on a clock with a non-functioning movement and a beautifully designed case. When discussing the options with the customer, they expressed a desire to prioritize making the clock run and replacing the broken hands, while leaving the case untouched. Although I believed that cleaning the case and applying a fresh coat of shellac would enhance its appearance, I respected the customer’s wishes and proceeded accordingly.
1-day Ogee from the 1860s
In the realm of antique clocks, the customer’s satisfaction is of utmost importance. While as a clock restorer and enthusiast, I may have my professional opinions and recommendations, it is essential to remember that the customer’s vision and preferences take precedence. By offering different choices and providing expert guidance, we can ensure that the customer’s clock not only functions well but also aligns with their aesthetic sensibilities and personal attachment to its history.
Customer clock
The customer’s desires should be respected when working on antique clocks. While expert advice can be offered regarding repairs and restoration, the final decision lies with the customer.
By presenting various options and considering their input, a functional clock that meets their expectations and preserves the integrity of the clock’s history and design while preserving the relationship between the repairer and the customer is the ultimate goal.
As a Canadian clock blogger, it’s essential for me to recognize and appreciate readers in the United States who are celebrating Independence Day, July 4th. In the spirit of unity and shared appreciation for history and tradition, this article aims to acknowledge and honour my American readers as they commemorate their significant day.
Just as Canada Day symbolizes the birth of a nation, Independence Day serves as a reminder of the extraordinary courage and resilience displayed by the American people throughout their history. Antique clocks, with their enduring craftsmanship, mirror the tenacity and independence that have shaped the United States. By acknowledging this common thread, we can celebrate the shared appreciation for freedom and self-determination that unites us all.
American Heritage
Independence Day is an occasion for Americans to honor their country’s rich heritage and the values upon which it was founded. As an antique clock blogger, I acknowledge the significance of American clockmaking traditions and the contributions made by skilled artisans throughout their nation’s history. By recognizing and showcasing the unique heritage of American clockmaking as much of my collection consists of American-made clocks, we can celebrate the ingenuity and craftsmanship that have made a lasting impact on the world of horology.
Connecting Through Time
Antique clocks have a remarkable ability to transcend borders and connect individuals across time and space. Those connections consist of many letters received from my American friends.
On American Independence Day, we can reflect on the profound impact that historical events have had on shaping both nations. By acknowledging our American readers and their celebration of independence, we foster a sense of unity and understanding, forging a connection that transcends geographical boundaries and embraces the collective appreciation for history and heritage.
Celebrating Freedom and Progress Together
Independence Day is a time for Americans to celebrate the hard-fought freedoms they enjoy today. It is also an opportunity to acknowledge the progress made over the years and to envision a future that upholds the values of independence, equality, and unity, values that are cherished in my country, Canada. By celebrating both the freedoms gained and the advancements achieved, we pay homage to the spirit of independence and progress that define our shared human experience.
As our neighbour observes Independence Day, I extend my appreciation to our American readers and acknowledge the significance of their celebration.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is dedicated to addressing readers’ letters and comments related to clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. In cases where the comments and questions are particularly challenging, I seek advice from my fellow clock enthusiasts to provide the most accurate and helpful response.
DS writes
Morning, Ron –
I’ve wanted to let you know how much I’ve enjoyed these blog posts.
What a nice work area you have there, too.
I’ve had my eyes on a marvelous Wm. Van Tassel sleigh-front, or “Triple Decker” Seth Thomas manufactured for the Canadian market for some time. I’ve been fascinated with these old clocks for many years, and in particular the triple-deckers. I’ll attach an image or two of the Van Tassel I’m interested in. It is perhaps the finest sleigh-front I’ve ever seen, in terms of condition & originality.
I only have a modest collection of some cottage clocks of the various Connecticut makers, and several “Ogees.” My only real “Problem” is finding time enough to spend with them!
Thanks again for these interesting, well-written articles.
Take care…
Wm. Van Tassel sleigh-front
I write
Thanks for your email, DS
That is a very nice clock. Some would call it a column and cornice but as you said often referred to as a triple-decker. I like the two-door feature. I have a similar Seth Thomas. My only thought is whether or not the tablets (or at least one of them ) are original. The cornice and the base are often beat up with wear and tear and it is nice to see one so unmolested. It is a clock I would take a serious look at.
In this post I will acquaint the reader with temperature compensation and what it means for maintaining the accuracy of a mechanical clock.
Almost all materials expand noticeably with heat and contract when cooled.
Temperature compensation is a critical factor to consider when it comes to the maintenance and repair of antique mechanical clocks. Clocks are precision instruments that rely on a delicate balance of mechanical components to keep accurate time. Any changes in temperature can cause the metal components of the clock to expand or contract, leading to inaccuracies in timekeeping.
Pendulum with dissimilar metal rods
To combat these fluctuations, many antique clocks were designed with temperature compensation mechanisms. These mechanisms are intended to counteract the effects of temperature changes on the clock’s accuracy. One common method of temperature compensation is the use of a bi-metallic strip, which is a strip of two different metals that are bonded together. As the temperature changes, the metals expand and contract at different rates, causing the strip to bend and adjust the balance of the clock.
Wood was a commonly used material for antique clock pendulum rods because it has a low coefficient of thermal expansion, meaning it is less likely to expand or contract with changes in temperature, which is crucial for maintaining the accuracy of timekeeping in clocks. Wood is relatively lightweight and easy to work with, making it a practical choice for clockmakers.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2 with wood pendulum rod
However, not all antique clocks were designed with temperature compensation mechanisms.
Clocks that have no temperature compensation may need seasonal adjustments
For those that lack these features, it’s important to keep the clock in a stable environment with minimal temperature fluctuations. However seasonal changes in heat and humidity may require periodic adjustments. Exposure to extreme temperatures or rapid changes in temperature can cause damage to the clock’s components and negatively impact its accuracy.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator with wood pendulum
Temperature compensation is a critical factor to consider when it comes to antique mechanical clocks. While some clocks were designed with built-in temperature compensation mechanisms, others may require more careful maintenance and storage to ensure accurate timekeeping over time.
Having said the above not every pendulum design that appears to provide temperature compensation actually serves that purpose. In certain instances, pendulum rod designs may be purely decorative (such as the Mauthe wall clock below) and lack temperature compensation functionality altogether.
Mauthe wall clock circa 1895
If your clock is experiencing inaccuracies in timekeeping, there are various adjustments that can be made. However, if you lack the necessary expertise, it is advisable to consult a professional clock repairer. They can thoroughly examine the clock’s mechanisms, identify any problems, and make the necessary adjustments to ensure precise and accurate timekeeping.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is dedicated to addressing readers’ letters and comments related to clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. In cases where the comments and questions are particularly challenging, I seek advice from my fellow clock enthusiasts to provide the most accurate and helpful response.
JZ writes
I ran across your website trying to find info on some old clocks. My husband passed away in February and left me several. I have no desire to keep them but also have No knowledge of what to do with them.
I’m sending you pics of a few. I realize it’s difficult from pics to provide much but anything is more than I have at the moment.
U/K parlour clock
My reply
I am sorry for your loss. I’ll begin by saying that I have no interest in any of the clocks.
With respect to the clocks left behind by your husband, there are a few options you might consider.
American time and strike clockwith a French look
First, consider selling the clocks. If you have no desire to keep them you might be able to sell them to a collector as a lot or individually. You can also locate a reputable auction house or sell them online through websites like eBay or Etsy. Selling them locally through Facebook Marketplace avoids the hassle of packaging and shipping a clock to its new owner.
Donating the clocks to a local museum or historical society is another option. The clocks can be appreciated by those who have a passion for clocks.
Having the clocks appraised is another avenue to pursue but you run the risk of paying more for the expert opinion than the clocks are worth.
Antique items can certainly be worth a lot of money, but it is important to note that just because something is old or antique does not automatically make it valuable.
Electric clockfrom the 1940s
I am not a clock valuation expert and cannot physically inspect their construction, repair status, and overall condition and any estimate I offer from information provided to me by email regarding the clock’s value would be approximate.
Likely a Hermle Westminster chiming clock
If any of the clocks have a distinct history (provenance) or the maker is highly regarded, its value will be significantly higher but you have not provided enough information to suggest that.
The value of an antique clock depends on various factors such as rarity, condition, historical significance, the reputation of the maker, and finally market demand. Unfortunately, the market for antique clocks is not as strong as it once was though certain rare or highly sought-after antique clocks can still hold significant value in the market.
Judging from the photos alone I do not believe that any one of these clocks is worth more than $200, and some significantly less.
Repurposing old antique clock parts can offer numerous benefits. For clock repair persons, these parts can serve as a convenient source for replacement components.
All clock repair persons consider this to be a best practice because it is sustainable, reduces waste, and conserves valuable resources.
Repurposing also provides an affordable means of obtaining rare and elusive parts for clock repair or restoration projects.
A case in point
Some years ago, I stumbled upon a seller who had four clocks for sale for just $20. It was a barn find in the true sense of the word.
I talked to the seller by phone and purchased them without knowing their condition. Upon inspection, I found that three of them had cases in poor condition but intact mechanical movements, making them well worth the purchase alone.
Although none of the clocks were particularly valuable, they were found in the same barn, all dusty and rusty, cast aside many years ago. In the eyes of the seller, the clocks were one step closer to the trash bin.
I considered resurrecting an Ansonia wall clock, which would have been a project for another day but there was a spring-driven time and strike steeple clock that was essentially intact so I decided to service it instead. The steeple clock movement was serviced and the case was refreshed. The results were quite satisfying.
It was a lucky find because the two mainsprings happened to be crafted from brass, which was utilized as a power source for clocks from roughly 1836 to 1840. Though rare the clock is not particularly valuable.
Elisha Manross steeple clock
While the Waterbury mantel clock was beyond repair and had to be discarded, there were still many parts from the Welch ogee clock that had the potential for future use. I removed the movement, pulleys, glass, hinges, iron nails, and door catch. The rosewood veneer was stripped from the case and set aside for a future project.
$20 for what some would consider trash
The salvaged veneer was used to create a new finial base for the Elisha Manross steeple clock pictured above and to cover the finial bases on the top crown of an 1850s Scottish tall case clock. In time the salvaged veneer was used for a number of other projects.
Scottish tall-case clock
Some clock parts are not difficult to source
There is actually a considerable assortment of new components available for antique and vintage clocks, which can be procured through numerous suppliers.
Examples are clock hands, pendulum bobs and leaders, feet, hinges, finials, bezels, hand nuts, case parts, and so on but by keeping old clock parts, clockmakers have access to replacement components that are no longer produced or readily available.
Trash or treasure?
As time passed, I revisited the Ansonia wall clock. The Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock shown above was in a disassembled state and the heavily corroded movement might have been deemed irreparable by some.
Ansonia time-only movement as found
I could have salvaged the veneer and wooden components and saved the movement for potential future use, but I chose to rise to the challenge and reassemble the clock instead.
The crucial brass dial bezel was absent from the clock, and while I initially believed I could find a replacement at a later time (I never could), I opted to reinsert the movement into the refurbished case.
Though clearly missing a few cosmetic parts the clock has proven to be a reliable runner to this day.
Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock
There is value in saving old parts
Retaining old clocks for spare parts not only helps to maintain the legacy of clockmaking but also serves as a dependable resource for those elusive components that can be challenging to come by.
Beyond everything else, the parts tell a story about the manufacturing process, the materials used, and the craftsmanship involved in creating a clock. By saving and reusing these parts, clockmakers help to ensure that the knowledge and skills of traditional clockmaking are not lost.
Saving old clock parts is not only practical but also beneficial for preserving history, maintaining authenticity, and ensuring the longevity of antique timepieces.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is dedicated to addressing readers’ letters and comments related to clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. In cases where the comments and questions are particularly challenging, I seek advice from my fellow clock enthusiasts to provide the most accurate and helpful response.
DH writes
I am the executor of an estate and am dealing with a Grandfather clock that will be sold outside the normal auction process to one of the children. I have attached a picture of the clock and a description of the movement inside the clock. The clock was built by Hanson Heffler of Cherry Run, WV. He only built a couple of clocks and those were for family, so he is not a known clock builder. How can I get a valuation done for Estate purposes? What other information do I need to obtain? What fees will need to be paid to get the valuation? Any assistance you may provide is appreciated.
Custom clock with Mason and Sullivan movement
My reply
You are certainly entitled to consult an expert to determine the value of the clock, however, let me offer a few words of advice.
I am not a clock valuation expert and cannot physically inspect its construction, repair status, and overall condition and any estimate I offer from information provided to me by email regarding the clock’s value would be approximate.
The clock appears to be from the 1970s to the 1980s. While the case is custom-made, as you say, the movement is sourced from Germany which was very common during that period. The clock movement may say Mason and Sullivan but the maker is Hermle of Germany. Mason and Sullivan simply put their stamp on it suggesting to the buyer that it is American-made. Whether a clock was custom-made or factory produced as in grandfather clocks from Howard Miller or Ridgeway during that period, for example, the practice was to install German-made movements which is not a bad thing since German-made movements are robust and reliable.
Movement is stamped Mason and Sulivan
That said, many of these clocks are difficult to sell because nobody wants them for a number of reasons. One, they generally cost more to repair than they are worth. If the clock has not been serviced in quite some time, at the very least the movement would require inspection and oiling by a professional clock repair person. In addition, ongoing repairs and maintenance can add up over time. Two, they take up space. Homes are typically smaller today and space is often at a premium and the size of the clock often puts off buyers. Three, transporting and setting up these clocks can pose a challenge if the buyer lacks the familiarity with setup. Four, the clock has a period look and may not fit with the style of a modern home or may clash with other furnishings.
If the clock does not have a distinct history (provenance) or the maker is not highly regarded, its value will be significantly lower than the original purchase price.
Typically a clock of this style and vintage would fetch something in the neighbourhood of $500 to $600.
While it is recommended to seek the advice of an expert to obtain an accurate valuation of the clock, their estimate may not deviate significantly from the one I have given.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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