Schatz and Sohne, the maker of this pretty little 8-day carriage clock may not have considered that one day their carriage clocks would require servicing. Did they make a throw-away clock? We’ll see.
Many were sold and typically gifted to family, friends, and business associates. Over the years they have either been tossed out, found their way to antique shops/flea markets, sold to people like me or sat on a shelf never to run again. Yet, they are nice looking clocks.
Does the beginning of this blog sound familiar? If you are a regular reader you will note that I wrote about this clock a few weeks ago. Not happy the first time, I decided to tackle the movement a second time hoping for a better result. My approach is to give every movement my best effort and up to this point I have lost very few patients so, I was not going to allow this one to get the best of me.
My initial efforts to fix the clock produced a result that was no better than when I got it. It ran about 4 days and after servicing I was unable to improve on the running time.
Was it worn? Everything looked very good except for the second wheel (middle plate) bushing hole which was very badly worn, not surprising since the second wheel accepts the full force of the main wheel.
The worst bushing wear I have seen in a while
The thin brass plates don’t help since they exacerbate wear. A new bushing was installed and it was a good fit, worked perfectly but was very close to the edge of the plate.
As good as it gets but very close to the edge of the plate
During the first run-through, I thought I had nailed it. It should have run for 8 days. It did not.
Escape wheel at the bottom of the movement
However, in that first servicing, I did not clean the mainspring.
This time the mainspring came out of the barrel. It was not an easy task to extract it as the barrel is very small, 35mm in diameter, and too tiny for my Olie Baker spring winder (why I did not tackle it in the first place). Compare the barrel size to the winding key in the next photo.
A very small mainspring barrelDuring testing
Once the barrel cap was off, and the winding arbour removed I snagged the mainspring in the centre with a pair of needle-nosed pliers and pulled it from the barrel. Gloves are necessary as you never know how much force a mainspring will have once released from any barrel.
It was dirty but was that enough to affect the running of the clock? Will servicing the mainspring improve things? Hmm!
While the mainspring was out of its barrel I gave it a good cleaning followed by a wipe-down with Keystone mainspring oil. Back in it goes. Easy enough to take out but very frustrating to put back into the barrel. A few curse words and some encouragement and the spring found its way into the barrel.
It will be tested without the case and dial attached. So far it looks good but it has run for only a few hours.
Will it run for 8 days?
2 weeks days later
Servicing the mainsprings might have given me the 8 days I was seeking but that might not have been possible without fine-tuning the hairspring escapement which I believe contributed equally to a better run time. An adjusting screw on the escape wheel allows for fine-tuning but I had to rely on trial and error to find the sweet spot. Success in the end.
My intention was never to make this clock a daily runner but it is nice to have something that runs according to its original design. My cost was one bushing and, of course, my time.
It will be displayed, and run occasionally. Oh, and about that mainspring; I cannot imagine anyone with arthritic hands trying to wind it once per week, that mainspring is so powerful.
These are very cute little carriage clocks and they can be successfully repaired but I would certainly not put a great deal of money into servicing one unless, of course, it has deep sentimental value.
My wife found this 8-day Schatz carriage clock while she was browsing for antiques on Facebook marketplace for what we both felt was an attractive price. I had dealt with the seller in the past and he is known for his honesty and selling clocks at a reasonable price. I do not believe his intention is to make a lot of money.
Schatz carriage clock
My wife likes it and when we picked it up we were not disappointed, it has a quality look. It was made in the 1970s and probably many thousands were given as gifts.
It is lighter than it looks and does not have the heft of a traditional antique carriage clock. The plates are thin, the brass casing is thin, the glass is not very thick although it is beveled and that accounts for the light weight. The winding key protrudes through the back glass panel, another nice touch.
View of the back panel
Schatz was likely looking for a certain price point and it was necessary to keep the costs down. Pretty, but not designed for long life. But after 40 years it is still running, to a point!
Side view
The seller said it runs for about four days and stops. It is not a big deal as far as I’m concerned but I am curious to take it apart to see if there are any issues beyond a good cleaning.
Clocks have been more than just timekeepers throughout history; they are reflections of art, culture, and technological innovation. Whether for practical use or decorative appeal, clock styles have evolved to match the tastes, craftsmanship, and technologies of their times. Here’s a look at some of the most iconic and varied clock styles.
The clock is an instrument designed to keep and indicate time. It is one of the oldest human inventions. The clock has evolved through the ages from sundials in ancient times to early tower clocks of the 14th century weight-driven clocks and finally spring-driven clocks from the 1840s to the 1970s.
The world of mechanical clocks encompasses a wide variety of styles, and distinguishing between them can often be confusing—such as understanding the difference between a shelf clock and a mantel clock. In this article, I’ll navigate through these terms and highlight the most common styles or types, using examples from my own clock collection to illustrate them.
Mantel Clock
Many auction sites and even professional websites use the word mantle. The correct terminology is “mantel”. A mantle is a shawl or coat worn by women, an important role passed on from one person to another or the earth’s crust. A mantel is the top framing of a fireplace or a shelf above a fireplace opening.
A mantel clock is designed to fit on top of a fireplace or shelf. A mantel clock can be time only, time and strike, or a chiming clock. Generally, if there are 2 winding arbours it is a time and strike clock, if the clock has 3 winding arbours is it a chiming clock that is, it will play a tune on the quarter hours, the most common being the Westminster chime.
Mantel clocks might also be referred to as shelf clocks or buffet clocks.
Kitchen Clock
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock
Kitchen clocks are often referred to as gingerbread clocks or parlour clocks. At times, it can be difficult to differentiate between a kitchen clock and a parlour clock. Gingerbread clocks are distinctive because their designs are typically created by steam-pressing the wooden front face. However, some clocks, like the one above, are made using a powered cutting saw but are still classified as kitchen clocks. Additionally, some of these clocks included alarm mechanisms. The terms gingerbread, kitchen, and parlour are often used interchangeably.
Another type of kitchen clock is shown below. This is an 8-day time-only delft wall clock made by Forestville.
Delft Clock from ForestvilleE. N. Welch Whittier model
A parlour clock is generally considered more ornate than a kitchen clock, although it may still be referred to as a kitchen clock. It is placed in front hallways, entryways, and so on. The designs are always cut and there may be finials, a mercury-filled pendulum or very ornate design, garish trim pieces, and a decorative tablet.
Vienna Regulator
Gustav Becker two-weight Vienna regulator
There are many styles but most are of the single-weight or two-weight variety. The definition of a Vienna regulator is always open to debate but the consensus among collectors is that they are weight-driven, made in Austria/Germany, ornate in design, have porcelain dials, decorative crowns, large pendulums, and finials on the top and bottom.
The broad definition of Vienna Regulator includes those that are spring-driven. Though not defined as “regulators” it is acceptable among collectors to refer to them as a Vienna style.
Cottage Clock
Canada Clock Co Hamilton Cottage Extra
Sometimes called a mantel clock or a shelf clock, they are usually diminutive in size to occupy a smaller space. They are found in bedrooms and kitchens and are sturdily built since they are often designed to be portable. They come in time only, time and strike, or may have an alarm function.
Carriage Clock
French Carriage Clock
Carriage clocks are portable and were very popular around the turn of the 20th century. French-made carriage clocks are more collectible and fetch generally higher prices although American ones can be quite desirable. Carriage clocks are designed to be portable and are time-only but some are time and strike (with a repeater function) while others may have an alarm function.
Crystal Regulator
Ansonia Crystal Regulator
Crystal Regulator clocks are identified by a brass case with 4 crystals or glass panels. Porcelain dials, Roman or Arabic numerals, ornate in design but sometimes quite garish. Most are 10-12 inches in height though some are smaller. Makers are American and French though French crystal regulators are called four-glass clocks and tend to have higher value. Distinctive by their mercury or faux mercury pendulums. Some have visible Brocot escapements and the time and strike movements are always visible.
Cuckoo Clock
Cuckoo clock
These clocks are pendulum-regulated and make an automated sound like a cuckoo when it strikes the hours. Some can be very intricate with several animated characters. Desirable ones are antiques from the Black Forest region of Germany. Modern ones are generally frustrating to repair, cheaply built, and are poor timekeepers.
Lantern Clock
Converted lantern clock
A lantern clock is a type of antique weight-driven wall clock, shaped like a lantern. They were the first type of clock widely used in private homes. They probably originated before 1500 but only became common after 1600 and in Britain, around 1620. They became obsolete in the 19th century. The one pictured above has been converted into a fusee movement.
Alarm Clock
Baby Ben alarm clock with seconds hand
Alarm clocks are wound once per day and designed to do two things, wake you and display the time. They are cheap, and are average timekeepers but have long-lasting and reliable movements.
Desk Clock
Kienzle World Time clock
These sat on fancy office desks or credenzas in office locations. They are either time-only or time-and-strike. Most were time-only to minimize distractions in the office environment. Some are very attractive and have unique designs and are more decorative than utilitarian. This one above is called a World Time Clock by Kienzle.
Wall Clock
German Mauthe Box clock
A wall clock is broadly defined as any clock designed to be hung on a wall, making it a practical and visible timekeeping solution. Wall clocks come in various styles, from simple and functional designs to highly decorative pieces. This one by Mauthe is often described as a German “box” clock which became popular after the First World War and made into the 1940s.
Schoolhouse Clock
Ansonia schoolhouse clock
They are known as schoolhouse clocks because they hung in many schoolrooms in North America. Usually distinctive by their octagon shape and short or long drop feature with a glass door displaying a swinging pendulum. Many thousands were made; they had cheap mass-produced softwood cases and robust movements. Most were time-only though some were time and strike and others even included a calendar function.
When they were marketed years ago they were not called “schoolhouse clocks” but rather, clocks made for the schoolroom.
Novelty Clock
Chairman Mao Zetong waving as the clock ticks
These clocks are designed for the tourist trade with interesting features. In the case of the above clock, a smiling Mao Zedong has his little red book in hand and is waving “to the masses” as the clock ticks.
Ogee Clock
Waterbury OG clock
It is so-called because of the curved molded wood case. It might also be referred to as an OG clock. The design originated in the United States in the 1830s, distinguished by a case (usually pine) the front outer edges of which are curved into an S-shape (Ogee). This shape is formed by the union of a convex and a concave line. A mass-produced variant of the shelf clock, the Ogee clock typically stands about 30 inches (75 cm) high and is usually weight-driven. The movements were generally made of brass (earlier ones were made of wood) and ran for 30 hours or eight days. This is a 30-hour weight-driven version from the 1870s.
Tall Case Clock
Ridgeway Hamilton Country, Westminster chime
Tall case clocks are known by various names depending on the region. They are referred to as tall-case clocks in American terminology, long-case clocks in British terminology, hall clocks in Canada, and sometimes as floor clocks. However, the most commonly used term is “grandfather clock.”
They are usually weight-driven, with the weights on chains or cables, and are distinctive by their obvious height. They are always 6 feet or over but can be as high as 8 feet high (1.8 to 2.4 meters). They often feature elaborately carved ornamentation on the hood (or bonnet), the frames, the throat, and the dial or clock face. Older ones have 30-hour movements but all modern grandfather clocks run on an 8-day cycle.
Smaller clocks are called grandmother and granddaughter clocks. They are under 6 feet.
Anniversary Clock
Kundo standard size 400-day clock
These clocks are also called torsion clocks or 400-day clocks. 400-day clocks are torsion driven having a long suspension spring to which a weight oscillates back and forth. Typically these clocks operate at 8 beats per minute and run for long cycles on a single wind, up to 400 days. These clocks were popular as wedding gifts or gifts to mark special occasions. They are relatively simple to repair but can be finicky to set up. The newer quartz clocks are very accurate but do not replace the charm and curiosity of the older mechanical ones.
Some might call them purely decorative.
Tower Clock
Tower clock in Holguin, Cuba
In the early 14th century large mechanical clocks began to appear in the towers of Italian cities. There is no record of any working models preceding these public clocks that were weight-driven and regulated by verge-and-foliot escapements. They are referred to as Turret clocks in the UK.
In conclusion, while there are sub-categories for some of the clocks described above, this overview provides a general understanding of the commonly used terms. Having this knowledge can be especially helpful when shopping for a special gift or identifying the style of clock you may have in your possession.
While at an antique store in Kazabazua, Quebec my wife made an offer on one of these two carriage clocks. The other clock was found at an antique barn just outside of Campbell’s Bay, Quebec, literally an hour’s drive apart and about a week between the two purchases.
I was surprised to find two seemingly identical clocks not far from each other. At first I thought they were identical.
German versus Italian made carriage clocks
The one immediate difference is readily apparent. The dial on the left has Arabic numerals whereas the one on the right has Roman Numerals. They have similar dimensions but if you look closely the bases are not the same height. Both are alarm clocks. Both have a “second” hand at the top and a set-time indicator at the bottom section of the dial. Both have seemingly identical carriage style cases made of very similar materials. Both I believe, are 30 hour clocks. There is an access panel on the back of each clock for winding and adjusting. However, that is where their similarities end.
Musical alarm on the left and bell strike on the right
Musical versus bell strike
I would estimate that they were both made sometime after the First War
The one on the right is made by Junghans or Kienzle, both German clock companies with long and illustrious histories. I tried comparing the plate design and dimensions to a database found here and the closest I could find was Kienzle. However, it is also very similar to Junghans “Joker” style clocks that I have seen for sale on EBay. At one time (around 1905) Junghans had a branch in Venice (Italy) likely a delivery depot for clocks made in Germany. But it is also possible that some assembly may have been done there hence, no definitive markings. I would estimate that they were both made sometime after the First War.
Side views
Back access panels
The one on the right is made by an Italian maker, Fratelli Borletti. Fratelli Borletti was the only clock factory in Italy prior to WWI and produced only alarm clocks. Fratelli Borletti was later renamed “Veglia Borletti” and produced many car instruments for Fiat, Lancia, Daimler and so on. Today, Veglia Borletti belongs to Magneti Marelli.
The Junghans or Kienzle clock is a musical alarm clock while the Fratelli Borletti clock has a bell type alarm with a striker, though the striker on this particular clock is missing.
One (the musical alarm clock) is working and remarkably clean, the other needs a lot of work. Two very unusual clocks found not far from each other.
Understanding the role of the clock key is essential for proper clock maintenance and operation. The clock key not only winds your antique or vintage clock but also plays a crucial part in ensuring it runs smoothly and efficiently. However, using the correct size key is just as important as the key itself. Using the wrong size can lead to damage or improper winding, affecting the longevity and performance of your clock.
In this article, we’ll explore the purpose of the clock key, why choosing the right size is vital, and provide a helpful chart to guide you in selecting the correct key for your clock.
Winding Mechanical clocks
Mechanical clocks require periodic winding. Some clocks need to be wound daily, such as 30-hour clocks, while others are wound once a week (8-day clocks). Some clocks run for 14 days, and anniversary clocks can run for up to 400 days on a single winding.
Most mechanical clocks have a winding hole located on the dial face, where the clock key is inserted. The key should fit snugly—neither too tight nor too loose—ensuring smooth operation when winding.
Why Key Size Matters
Except for the smaller regulating arbour on some clock faces, most winding arbours or winding points are the same size on the clock. This means one key will fit all of them. However, over time, a clock’s original key may go missing. If this happens, you can often use a key from another mechanical clock, and one of them will usually fit.
A micrometre is a useful tool to measure the thickness of a winding arbour. However, measuring the arbour’s size often requires removing the clock movement from its case. Once you’ve measured, you can order the correct key online.
Using a micrometre to check pivot diameter; this tool can be used to measure the thickness of a winding arbour
Different Types of Keys
In general, larger German movements use a #8 key, though some require a #7 key. Many 31-day clocks, or clocks made in Korea or China, use a #6 or #7 key. Many American mantel clocks require a #5 or #6 key.
Keys come in all shapes and sizes. In the photo below are keys from German and American movements. The two-pronged keys (4 and 5 prongs) are available at any clock supply house such as Perrin or Timesavers and will fit many clock winding arbours. Many other sizes can also be ordered. eBay, online marketplaces and antique stores are other sources for clock keys.
4 and 5 prong keys and singles
In the photo below you can see two types of double-ended keys
Double-ended keys
The one on the left is used for winding a typical American clock. The large end fits into the winding arbour while the small end is for adjusting the speed of your clock. Many clocks have a smaller arbour used for adjusting the speed of your clock and will have “S” and “F” (Slow/Fast) inscribed on the dial generally near the 12 o’clock position.
The key on the right is for a time-only carriage clock. The small end is used to advance the minute hand and the large end fits onto the mainspring arbour.
Speed adjustment arbour requires the small end of a two-ended key
Grandfather and Ogee Clocks
30-hour weight-driven Ogee clocks typically require a #4, #5, or #6 crank key. Many grandfather clocks use a #10 or #11 winding crank, and it’s important not to wind them with a conventional clock key. For clocks with weight cables, the winding crank is essential for raising the weights. Insert the crank into the arbour and carefully wind the weights up until they reach the top of the clock, ensuring they remain fully visible.
Some clock keys will also have a number stamped on them indicating their size.
Storing Your Clock Key
It’s important to keep your clock key in a safe, easily accessible place. Keys should be stored either beside the clock, within the front access door of a wall clock, or in a caddy inside the case. Mantel clocks with key caddies can be inconvenient, as you must move the clock to open the back door to access the key. However, for homes with small children, keeping the key in its caddy helps ensure it remains out of reach.
Key caddy behind the access door
Key Size Chart
Here is a chart that lists key sizes in millimetres for both American and Swiss movements, from small to large:
Key Size
American (mm)
Swiss (mm)
5/0
1.6
1.25
4/0
1.8
1.5
3/0
2.0
1.75
2/0
2.2
2.0
0
2.4
2.25
1
2.6
2.5
2
2.8
2.75
3
3.0
3.0
4
3.2
3.25
5
3.4
3.5
6
3.6
3.75
7
3.8
4.0
8
4.0
4.25
9
4.2
4.5
10
4.4
4.75
11
4.6
5.0
12
4.8
5.25
13
5.0
5.5
14
5.2
5.75
15
5.4
6.0
16
5.6
6.25
17
5.8
6.5
18
6.0
6.75
19
6.2
7.0
20
6.4
7.25
21
6.6
7.5
22
6.8
7.75
23
7.0
8.0
Winding crank in a miniature Vienna Regulator
There is no key required for weight-driven clocks that have weight chains. Winding involves pulling the weight(s) to the top of the clock once each week.
Choosing the correct clock key is essential for the proper functioning and longevity of your mechanical clock. Whether you’re winding an antique mantel clock, a grandfather clock, or a time-only carriage clock, using the right key size ensures smooth operation and prevents damage to the movement.
With a variety of key sizes available, understanding your clock’s requirements and keeping the key in a safe, accessible location will help you maintain your timepiece in excellent working condition. By following the guidelines and chart provided, you can confidently select the correct key and enjoy the reliable performance of your clock for many years to come.
There is no maker’s mark anywhere on the case or the movement
The clock is an unsigned 8-day carriage clock in a rectangular brass case. This attractive little clock has a white enameled dial with Roman numerals, blued steel hands and a spring driven time-only movement with platform lever escapement visible through the top beveled glass. The brass case has 4 beveled glass panels complete with a fold-down travel handle.
In taking the movement apart to clean it I can see “73” stamped on the bottom of the case, the case handle, the door edge and 2 or three places on the movement and the letter “B” on the back of the front plate but no maker’s mark. What do the numbers mean? I think it is an internal production stamp. Thousands of these generic carriage clocks were made and I may never know the maker. The only taper pins on this movement are those that attach the dial face to the movement. However, judging from what see and its general construction I would comfortably date this clock to the 1880s.
The movement plates are secured by screws rather than taper pins. Older carriage clocks would have taper pins securing the movement plates. This clock would have been produced for the English market since it has “S”and “F” stamped on the escapement (Slow and Fast). The key has “France” inscribed on it so if it is original, then the clock is French.
Unsigned French Carriage Clock
Time-only carriage clocks are relatively easy to work on although the platform escapement takes a extra care. I chose not to service the escapement at this time.
First, let the mainspring down to release the power. If you take a wound clock apart it can injure you. Some of the compression points between cogs can have a very high gearing so even a weakly wound clock has the capacity to trap or pinch your fingers as well as throwing out and damaging components. I use a let down key that can be purchased at any clock supply house.
Carriage clock platform escapement
Movement side view, re-assembled
Taking the movement out of the case involves releasing 4 machine screws in the base. I use several elastic bands to keep the glass in place while I lift the sides and door off the base. When holding the clock firmly observe the effect of loosening the screws. The pillars have become loose and the glass can now move a little in the frame. If you unscrew all the screws completely without understanding that the glass is loose, it is too easy for the glass panels to slide out and break. They are not easy to replace! I’ll describe my work on glass cleaning later.
There are two screws which hold the base to the movement. Unscrew those and proceed to take off the front face. The enameled face is secured by 4 taper pins. In my case they were difficult to get out so I decided to take the back plate off the movement to allow my pliers inside to release the pins. Removing the platform escapement requires releasing 4 very tiny screws. A precision slotted screwdriver is absolutely necessary. It is best to unscrew all 4 together and leave them in place once off the movement so you do not have to fiddle with them when reattaching the escapement later, unless, of course, you intend to service the escapement.
Back plate after a cleaning
I then separate the plates and inspect the wheels, pinions, pivots and pivot holes. I found a little bit of play in two pivot holes only observable with a loupe but not enough for bushing work. I polished the pivots, pegged the pivot holes and cleaned the wheels, plates and other pieces except the platform escapement in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Assembly of the movement is relatively simple as there are so few gears. Attaching the hour hand was interesting, however. Both the hour and minute hands are pressure fit, but the hour hand was a challenge because I had to use a screwdriver to push the hour shaft forward (gently) through the clock face while simultaneously attaching the hour hand. It was very tight. After a number of tries I managed to press it in securely.
It is actually quite small
Back to the glass. It is also important to put each panel back where it belongs. I discovered that there is a top and bottom orientation to each glass panel, they are cut so fine! There is enough resistance if you try to put the wrong end into the channels you will encounter difficulty. Each glass panel is taken out and cleaned with Windex and, of course, put back exactly how they came out.
Once everything is assembled the clock is oiled, wound and the time is set. Polishing the brass case is the final step. Brasso was used to clean up the brass and bring the clock back to its former glory.
As a clock collector I have quite a few clocks in my home. Most are running daily. There are 34 clocks ticking away in my home as I write this blog article.
I have accepted them as normal sounds in my home
Some collectors have a dedicated clock room in their home but mine are scattered throughout the house. I try to arrange each one so that it fits more or less into the decor of the room. It is a big house and thankfully we have quite a few rooms in which I can display my clocks. I have all manner and styles of clocks including mantel, wall clocks, shelf clocks, carriage clocks, desk clocks, anniversary clocks but just one floor clock. My particular preference is wall clocks; I have 13 of them.
Kienzle clock on display with Ingraham Huron balloon style shelf clock
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator and Seth Thomas round top
Arthur Pequegnat Brandon in an upper hallway
Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock atop a Stromberg Carlson radio
So how do I put up with the cacophony of clock noises in the house? One, I thoroughly enjoy the sound of a mechanical clock and two, I have accepted them as normal sounds in my house.
However, there are rules in our house.
No striking or chiming clocks in or near the master bedroom.
No clocks in the bathrooms.
Clocks are stopped in those areas where guests are sleeping unless they do not object.
Are there clocks in the bedroom? Of course, three to be exact. Two are 400 day clocks like the one in the next photo and the third is a banjo clock.
9 inch miniature 400 day Kundo clock
The Ingraham Nordic banjo clock has a front-wind lever escapement and I would challenge anyone to hear this clock across a room. Is is no louder than an old alarm clock. The 400 day clocks are, of course, virtually silent.
We have a Mauthe box clock in our family room that makes such a wonderful sound that I actually pause the TV to listen to it
Ingraham Nordic Banjo Clock
This is my advice to those of you who love mechanical clocks but are bothered by the “noise”:
Some clocks are loud tickers and some are not. As a general rule American clocks tend to be much louder tickers than German or French clocks. Loud clocks should be placed in noisy areas
Avoid clocks that have a striking or a chiming train. If you are not fond of the sound of an hourly or quarter hour strike clock, simply search for a time-only clock.
Most chiming clocks (Westminster chimes are the most common) have a shut-off feature located on the dial face.
For time and strike clocks simply wind the time side only. However, purists would say that this is not good for the clock.
Carriage clocks, clocks with lever escapements (like the Nordic above) and 400 day clocks are exceptionally quiet and do not normally strike or chime (however, some carriage clocks do strike).
Locate your clocks in an area where you will not be bothered by them, a dedicated room, for instance.
Stop your clock or never wind it. Perhaps you can appreciate your clock as a piece of art or furniture rather than as a timepiece.
For the nostalgic, run your clocks only at certain special times of the year.
Mauthe Box clock
I rarely hear my clocks. Yes, I am aware of the ticking if I stop and listen. By and large I am not at all bothered by the sounds of my clocks. In fact, we have a Mauthe box clock in our family room that makes such a wonderful bim-bam sound that I actually pause the TV to listen to it.
Regulating your clock is the process of making repeated, precise adjustments to its mechanism with the goal of enhancing its accuracy and ensuring it functions as a reliable timekeeper over an extended period.
The running of your mechanical clock is influenced by three key factors: neglect, friction, and the environment. These elements will determine whether your clock can maintain accurate timekeeping. The article ends with tips on regulating your clock and the effects of mainspring power on timekeeping.
Let’s look at each factor.
Neglect
Neglect is easy to understand: without proper care, a clock will lose its reliability as a timekeeper. Placing a clock in a sunny spot, especially in a hot window, can cause the case to age prematurely and dry out the movement. Setting a clock near a heat source, like a heating vent, can affect its performance. Transporting a weight-driven clock without securing the weights can result in broken case parts and shattered glass. Moving a pendulum clock without removing the pendulum can cause internal damage.
Additionally, turning the hands backward should be avoided unless the manufacturer specifically permits it in the clock’s instructions.
Using a winding crank
Friction
Each moving part of a clock must be in optimal condition. The gear train should move freely, but excess friction will negatively impact the clock’s performance. Regular lubrication is crucial to prevent this. Friction causes wear, and over time, wear can lead to costly and time-consuming repairs. As bushing wear accelerates, the clock’s functionality will deteriorate, eventually causing it to stop.
Close-up of bushing wear; the pivot hole is oval when it should be circular
It’s good practice to inspect your clock’s movement every year or two and add oil if the pivots are dry. If you notice a buildup of thick, dirty oil around the pivot holes during your inspection, it’s time to service the clock’s movement. This can be done either by you, if you have the necessary skills, or by a clock specialist.
Six bushings installed on the back plate of a Sessions Westminster A mantel clock movement
Once the lubricating oil is used up or dries out the clock continues to run but the wheels are running without lubrication in their pivots holes. Once the pivot holes are enlarged (see above) the gears begin to run too deep into each other and the clock eventually stops. In clock circles the proper function of one gear operating with another, smoothly is referred to as “meshing”. Once wear becomes a factor, winding the springs no longer helps, as the springs lack sufficient power, or the gears fail to mesh properly, preventing them from overcoming friction in the gear train.
This leads some owners to think the clock is stopping due to being “over-wound,” when in reality, it’s simply worn out, or there is so much debris and dried oil in the mainspring that it sticks and refuses to unwind.
Preventative maintenance can help avoid costly repairs.
Servicing a clock is a separate topic altogether but black or green oil around or in the pivot holes is an indication that re-oiling will be ineffective; dis-assembly and cleaning of the movement is necessary.
Mixing old, dirty clock oil with new oil will speed up wear, and adding more oil won’t improve its performance.
Environment
Changes in the ambient temperature of your environment will affect it’s timekeeping rate. It is quite common to make seasonal adjustments to your clock. If you are in a temperate climate such as my part of the world, humidity, and temperature changes have a noticeable effect on the rate-keeping of any clock. Increasing the ambient temperature will slow it down, from the expansion and lengthening of the pendulum rod (unless it has a compensating type pendulum).
Clocks perform better in the more controlled environment of a home, but damp basements, window sills, bathrooms, areas above heating elements or vents, garages, and other humid spaces are unsuitable for mechanical clocks. Harsh environments can damage both the movement and the case, leading to issues like cracks, fading, and detached veneer in addition to a myriad of problems with the movement.
Pendulum bob with regulating adjustment
Regulating your Mechanical Clock
Regulating a clock often means making incremental changes to the length of the pendulum by means of a rate adjustment screw located at the end of the pendulum, or as in the case of a French clock pendulum (above) a rating screw inside the bob. Turning the rating screw clockwise shortens the pendulum (faster) and counterclockwise lengthens (slower) it.
Usually, one full turn of the screw means adding or subtracting a minute per week. To simplify the process some clocks have a rate adjustment arbour on the dial, typically at the 12 o’clock position. That way you do not have to open the access door at the back of the clock to adjust the rating nut on the pendulum.
Rate adjustment arbor
If you have a double-ended key, the smaller end is used for the rate adjustment arbour. The “S” (slow) and “F” (fast) settings correspond to adjusting the clock’s speed—slowing it down or speeding it up. Clocks may have either one of these adjustments, but sometimes both (adjustable pendulum and rate adjustment arbor), as on this French shelf clock.
French mantel clock
Rate adjustment is a trial-and-error process and typically takes a week or longer. If you can adjust your mechanical clock within a minute or two per week you are doing well. You will gradually gain a feel for the kind of adjustment required to regulate your particular clock.
Clocks without pendulums are those that have lever escapements, floating balance escapements, or balance wheel escapements. Regulation is achieved by moving a lever from slow to fast (as indicated on a wheel for instance) or adjusting weights in one direction or another on the escape wheel. There are specific directions on how to this and it is best to consult the instruction manual on your clock or search for resources online.
Mainspring Power and Regulation
When winding a spring-driven clock you are winding a sturdy coiled metal spring. The mainspring is an energy storage system or a power source. When you turn the key the winding gets tighter until you cannot turn the key any further. This stored energy (or potential energy) is now ready to be released but because a clock has reduction gears and an escapement (method for energy to escape) the energy is designed to be released at a steady and controlled rate. The purpose of the gear train is to convert the slow rotation of the main wheel into the faster rotation needed to tell the time. Each wheel in the train turns faster than the previous one.
A spring-driven clock tends to release most of its energy at the beginning of a cycle and releases less energy towards the end of it’s winding cycle which is typically an 8-day period. Most clocks will run longer than eight days but will lose more time as the spring supplies less power.
Regulating some spring-driven clocks can be challenging due to the way they release their power, though this can vary depending on the clockmaker. If your vintage or antique spring-driven mantel or wall clock is accurate to within 1-2 minutes per week, it’s performing quite well.
Sessions Beveled No 2 tambour style clock and French carriage clock
My Sessions time and strike tambour-style clock typically runs about one minute fast at the start of the week and around one minute slow by the end of the week. This is normal.
This one-weight Vienna wall clock is accurate to within 30 seconds a week
On the other hand, weight-driven clocks are more accurate since they release power at a constant rate through the winding cycle. Weight-driven clocks are generally more reliable timekeepers and are easier to regulate.
Junghans Crispi wall clock with compensating pendulum
Neglect, friction, and environmental factors play a significant role in a clock’s ability to keep accurate time. By ensuring proper maintenance, placing your clock in a location free from heat and humidity, and regularly checking for adequate lubrication, you can extend its lifespan, maintain its value, and enjoy dependable performance for years to come.
I am always intrigued by the language of the clock world. Here are some terms that I have learned in the past year.
Foxing:
Clock face showing brown staining
This is a more common problem than I thought. It is unsightly feature of clock dial faces and might be a cause for concern to some collectors. This phenomenon is caused by mold growth on paper in high (over 50%) humidity. Over time the brown spots coalesce to form large areas of brown. Treatment with chlorine bleach is probably ill-advised, because it will cause metal corrosion. CLR is also not recommended because CLR is an acid. Paper conservators treat this with sodium boro-hydride, or with borax (which needs to be washed out).
Verdigris:
Bright bluish-green encrustation
Verdigris is a bright bluish-green encrustation or patina formed on copper or brass by atmospheric oxidation, consisting of basic copper carbonate. You can see the greenish hue on the back of this century old antique carriage clock. Immersing the movement pieces in diluted Horolene is said to be one effective solution.
End Shake
End Shake is a term used to describe the movement of the pivot within a pivot hole. If the pivot is too tight there will excessive friction and the clock will not run. There must be some perceptible end-play (end shake) and when released the arbor should drop back down to rest against the bottom plate. A too tight pivot hole can be remedied with a smoothing broach available at any clock supplier.
“Normandy Chimes” are reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy, France
Normandy strike
A clock, made by Gilbert, that strikes the hours and halves on two chime rods. Gilbert called this the “Normandy Chime” as it was reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy (Corneville) in France and it was the precursor to the Bim-Bam clock.
Harfen gong
A patented 4-hammer gong by Gustav Becker that has four rods tuned to give a medium-deep “harp” sound when struck, the origin of the gong name “Harfen (Harp) Gong”. The Gong Base has “Oest. Pat” cast into the metal showing the specific patent for this design was Austrian.
Pilasters
Columns or posts that are found on the sides of a tall shelf clock or tall clock running vertically. These are decorative, but also add strength to the cabinet.
Tribology
The study of friction, wear, lubrication, and the design of bearings; the science of interacting surfaces in relative motion. This is the reason why engine oil and many other kinds of oil should not be used on a clcok. Engine oil is designed to be hydrophilic (absorb or dissolve in water) and coat internal parts which is the opposite of what clock oil is designed to do.
Spandrels
The almost triangular space between one side of the outer curve of an arch found on clock faces.
Four spandrels surrounding the chapter ring on this Hermle bracket clock
Rathburn Bushings
Bushing a clock without disassembling is never a good thing. For most purposes Rathburn Bushings are no-no and for those who are really desperate they are at best, a band-aid treatment. I have read about them and seen photos but have never actually seen one in a clock but for about $8 on that old familiar auction site you can buy a package of 10. To install, one places a Rathburn bushing over a worn pivot hole and screw or solder onto the plate. Not my preferred choice for clock repair.
Helper springs
I am clear on the function of helper springs/wires but what I have learned is that the gauge of wire is a function of where the spring is located on the movement. Let’s begin by describing the purpose of helper springs. They might look like they have been added later but they are actually part of the original manufacture and their purpose is to maintain tension on lifting levers, locking levers and hammers. What I did not realize until recently is that the gauge of wire is important for the amount of strength required for a particular lever. Lower gauge (thicker) wire is used for hammer levers because it is stronger and more tension is required to strike the gong/rod and higher (thinner) gauge wire is used for maintenance levers which require less tension. In the photo below you can see a thin helper wire that looks like it was wound by hand (not by me) on the lever arbor.
Helper wire (indicated by arrow) for Sessions movement
Chinoserie: is the European interpretation and imitation of Chinese and East Asian artistic traditions, especially in the decorative arts, garden design, architecture, literature, theater, musical performances and clocks. The pagoda style bonnet in this Scottish made Hugh Gordon long-case clock is a good example of a chinoserie influence.
Hugh Gordon long-case clock in the Chinoserie style
There you have it. These are just a few of the terms I learned in the past year. Clock collecting and repair is such a fascinating hobby; it expands ones vocabulary and is a source of new and interesting words every day.
It is a question many clock owners face when confronted with a nonfunctional antique or vintage clock. Whether it’s a handed-down family heirloom, a vintage find from a flea market, or a sentimental gift, deciding whether to invest in repairs can feel daunting. Beyond its monetary value, a clock’s worth often lies in its history, craftsmanship, or the memories it holds. In this article, we’ll explore key factors to consider—such as the clock’s condition, sentimental significance, and potential repair costs—to help you determine whether restoring your clock is the right choice for you.
1) Sentimental value:
An antique clock passed down through generations often carries more than just the weight of its years; it holds the stories, traditions, and memories of a family or a special person. Such a clock may be destined to continue its legacy with future generations.
Similarly, a clock might hold personal significance as a cherished anniversary present, a thoughtful retirement gift, or a token of friendship. In these cases, the emotional value far outweighs its replacement value, making the clock truly “one of a kind” and irreplaceable. Repairing a clock with this kind of sentimental importance is unquestionably worthwhile. When entrusted to a trusted, professionally certified repair person (horologist), the restoration ensures its continued presence in your life, regardless of its resale value.
For instance, my 114-year-old Gustav Becker two-weight Vienna Regulator, a retirement gift from my wife, holds immense sentimental value. Initially purchased as a project clock on eBay, it required substantial investment to function correctly. Today, it looks stunning and runs beautifully, but repairing it wasn’t about the cost; it was about preserving something irreplaceable. In such cases, the expense of repair becomes less of an investment and more of a necessary operating cost to keep a beloved treasure alive.
Gustav Becker two weight regulator, a retirement gift from my dear wife
I own a Ridgeway grandfather clock that I plan to pass down to my children. It holds deep sentimental value, reminding me of a clock my wife and I nearly purchased over 30 years ago. At the time, we decided not to proceed with the deal but made a promise that we would one day own a grandfather clock like it. That promise was fulfilled in 2012 when we found a Ridgeway Hamilton Country grandfather clock, made in 1996 and in pristine condition. If and when it eventually requires repair, the cost may equal its market value, but to me, the repair would be well worth it. Its sentimental significance far outweighs any monetary considerations.
Ridgeway Hamilton Country Westminster chime tall clock
2) A decorative item: The second type of clock is one with no emotional value—purely a decorative piece that no longer works. Perhaps it was a flea market find you got running for a time, but now it has stopped. In this case, you have two options: let it sit as a decorative item or repair it. When considering repairs, the replacement value of the clock should play a key role in your decision. If the repair costs exceed the cost of replacing the clock, it may make more sense to simply replace it.
However, if you have the tools and skills to repair it yourself, weigh the cost of new parts against your time and effort. For quality clocks, even a full overhaul of the movement may cost less than the clock’s actual value. With common antique clocks, such as American mantel or wall clocks, repair costs often approach or even exceed their market value. For rare or unusual clocks, however, repairs are typically more economical relative to their value, making the investment worthwhile.
3) Collector value: The third category includes clocks with collector value.
If a clock has been purchased as an “investment,” for resale, or simply as part of a collection, the repair costs should not exceed its overall value. For high-grade clocks requiring repair, especially if parts are unavailable, it’s important to carefully consider whether repairing it is worthwhile. When selling a clock, remember that buyers almost always prefer one in working condition, and as original as possible, so minimal repairs may enhance its appeal and value.
For example, I recently acquired a miniature Vienna Regulator. Not only is it in good working order, but it is also in exceptional condition—an impressive feat for a clock that is 145 years old.
One-weight Vienna miniature wall clock, circa 1870
For collectors, determining a clock’s value can be challenging, especially with the significant fluctuations in clock prices in recent years. However, certain types of clocks, such as high-quality French bracket clocks, English lantern clocks, carriage clocks, and jeweler’s regulators, have managed to retain their value. Clocks that are unique, exquisitely crafted, low-production, or one-of-a-kind are typically far more valuable than common, mass-produced examples.
4) Quick re-sale: The final category includes clocks purchased for quick resale.
Many individuals buy and sell antique and vintage clocks purely for profit, often through online marketplaces or specialized sales. When acquiring a clock with the intent to resell, it’s important to factor in both the time and cost of repairs or parts needed to make it marketable. Since buyers almost always prefer a functioning clock, a fully serviced clock is not only more desirable but can also command a higher price than one left unserviced.
This Ingersoll-Waterbury mantel clock (photo above) was purchased at a flea market for a very reasonable price and has since been fully serviced. If I were to sell it, I would need to recover the initial purchase price along with the cost of my time and supplies.
It’s worth noting that many clocks sold on online marketplaces are marketed to unsuspecting buyers. Sellers often claim the clock is in “excellent running condition” while adding a caveat that it “may require adjustment after shipping.” If you’re involved in buying and selling, keep in mind that buyers are often looking for a bargain. Additionally, you may not always achieve the price you believe your clock is worth, so pricing realistically is essential.
Final thoughts
There are many reasons why people acquire antique and vintage clocks. Deciding whether they are worth keeping or repairing ultimately depends on your purpose—whether it’s for profit, sentimental value, or a passion for collecting, as it is for me. Each clock has its own story and value, and understanding your connection to it will guide your decision.
Sadly the number of antique shops in Nova Scotia is dwindling. We were antiquing in the city of Halifax (Nova Scotia, Canada) this past spring and one of the store owners remarked that there used to be dozens of antique shops in the city, now only a few remain. There are still a few antique shops left in the rural areas and one of our favorites is located in Great Village, Nova Scotia. We decided on a little drive to Great village on a sunny fall Sunday. We were not disappointed in the variety of clocks we discovered. Although I saw all the following clocks during our day of antiquing I bought only one, the Kern “diamond face” 400 day clock (see photo below).
Window display
Unknown French clock
I want to give readers a sense of what is out there if you are collector like myself or you are new to collecting. Now is an excellent time to buy. There are certainly deals to be found and plenty of clocks in the shops. My personal experience is that the antique stores are great places to buy clocks but it can be bit of a gamble. For example, the Kern 400 day clock was advertised for a very fair price complete with glass dome. I asked the store owner if they knew anything about clocks and they said “no, nothing at all”. Sometimes that is a very good answer! The tag on the clock said “as is”. The owner evidently thought the pendulum balls were seized. Prior to the purchase I discovered, that they were, in fact, in their locked position. I got the clock home, unlocked it, gave a little push and it has been running for the past week.
Stamps for sale
You can get a “steal” of a deal, a clunker or something in between in an antique shop. In this same shop two years ago I bought an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon wall clock for under $200. The case is in excellent shape as is the dial but the movement, though barely running, required servicing. Even though I had to put a little more money into the clock I still consider it a great deal!
Having some knowledge of clock models, styles and types in particular is an advantage. Or, perhaps you might have a good sense that what you are looking at is a good deal. In the case of the Kern 400 day clock I inspected it beforehand and found that it was not only complete but in excellent condition. The $58 Garrard time and strike (photo below) might be a good deal but if it is missing the pendulum you are going to have to search long and hard for a replacement or buy one which adds to the cost. You might ask yourself, what else is missing and how much more money would I have to put into it? The Garrard was missing the front glass and I could not figure out how it was attached so I passed on it. Those are some of the factors to consider when you see something at an attractive price.
A doomed Ogee
In the case of the carriage clock (first photo) the seller wants $120 but the day I was there they were offering a 20% discount which works out to $96. There is a jewelers inscription on the front which says Ryrie Bros. Toronto. Ryrie Bros was a jeweler in Toronto and was incorporated in 1905 with James Ryrie as president and W.M. Birks as vice president. In 1924 the firm changed it’s name to Ryrie Birks and finally in 1933 became Birks. As any Canadian knows Birks (Maison Birk) is one of the premier jewelers in this country. One could comfortably date this clock at between 1905 and 1924. Although the tag says that it is French it is likely American. It might be desirable however there are two bothersome issues that I could see right away with this carriage clock. One, the left side beveled glass panel has a chip in the lower back corner and two, there are noticeable hairline cracks in the upper two corners of the face. The tag said it was in working order. $96 may not be a bad price when you consider that comparable clocks fetch upwards of $130 or more + shipping on Ebay. If it is still there before Christmas I might take a second look.
Unknown “marble” desk clock
This unknown “marble” desk clock was very interesting and quite heavy. It had an alarm clock style movement with a key wind and an adjustment for the time, and what appears to be brass bird (duck?) on it’s right side.
Kern diamond face 400 day clock
As I mentioned I bought this Kern 400 day “diamond face” clock. It is in excellent condition; unlocked the pendulum, oiled the movement, gave it a gentle push of the pendulum and now running very well.
Could be Sessions, Ingraham, Ansonia
In decent shape, 1873 it said on the label, but the seller wanted too much, $450 if I recall. The seller claims it is running, according the tag. Is it a Sessions, Ingraham, Ansonia or …..?
Sessions shelf clock in oak case
This clock looked to be in decent shape, the strike side appeared to be working properly. The case is oak but when I picked it up to examine it more closely, the construction, fit and finish had a cheap feel. There was a card inside describing a servicing performed in 1994. $68 – a little high, I thought but there may not be a lot wrong with it.
I like this clock but know very little about crystal regulators. What I do know is that most American companies made them, from simple brass and glass cases to elaborate cases with cast and gilt ornaments. Equivalent French examples seem to be more valuable than American ones. They can be highly expensive. Generally, the more elaborate the case, the more expensive the clock, even though the simple cases could easily be considered more tasteful. I remember seeing a very ornate one on Antique Roadshow which was valued at $8000. Condition is very important with these clocks, including the condition of the beveled glass, dials, and original finish (generally gilt) on the case ornaments. Is the pendulum supposed to be filled with anything? Mercury? These cylinders looked empty. The seller claims the clock is running and wants $365. A fair price? I don’t know. It needs a thorough cleaning though.
Garrard mantel clock
This English Garrard clock had a well constructed case and appeared to have a well-made, robust movement but was missing its front glass. I have been to this particular shop several times and nobody seems to be interested in the clock though the price has not changed.
Seth Thomas made by Talley Industries
I noticed a Seth Thomas mantel clock in a dark corner. This particular example is one that I would not recommend to anyone unless you are a fan of Talley Industries. It is a Seth Thomas Westminster chime mantel clock made by Talley Industries, Peterborough, Ontario in the early seventies with what appears to be an imported West German Hermle movement. This clock was cheaply constructed (corners were chipped), likely has the dreaded plated pivot problem and has absolutely no collector value. Those in the clock collecting world familiar with Seth Thomas know that it was a reputable clock maker for many years and produced many fine clocks but the Talley Industries era must have been a very dark period for the company!
A unique clock design
I hope this blog article gives the reader some ideas when it comes to antique shop clock shopping. It certainly pays to do your research. Although I love browsing the shops I do not limit my shopping to them. I acquire many of my clocks from a variety of sources including Ebay, Kijiji, and word of mouth but I like browsing through antique shops because there are always other interesting items that catch the eye.
I have in my collection an unsigned 8-day carriage clock in a moulded rectangular brass case. This attractive little clock has a white enamel dial with Roman numerals, blued steel hands and a spring driven movement with platform lever escapement visible through the top beveled glass. The moulded brass case has beveled glass panels on all sides complete with a fold-down travel handle and two sided key.
Next to a Sessions Beveled No. 2
Although my knowledge of carriage clocks is somewhat limited, searching the origin of the carriage clock on the net reveals that this type of clock was a very popular item for well-to-do travelers in days gone by. Carriage clocks were spring driven clocks popular in the late 19th and early 20th century designed for travel. It’s golden age was somewhere between 1860 and 1900. The first carriage clock made by Abraham Louis Breguet was designed exclusively for Emperor Napoleon of France in 1812. More information about this fine inventor and horologist can be found here. Many came with a sturdy leather carrying case with one hinged panel that opened to check the time. Mine came without one.
The movement plates in my clock are secured by screws rather than pins suggesting that it was made at a later period. This clock would have been produced for the English market since it has “S”and “F” stamped on the escapement. If one assumes that the key which has “France” inscribed on it is original, then the clock is French. There are no markings on the outside of the clock save for the number “73” stamped twice on the inside access door and once on the bottom of the carrying handle. There are numbers visible on the inside of the plates that I can barely see but once I get the clock apart I can determine if they mean anything and report in a subsequent blog entry if I find anything of significance.
It’s diminutive size, 3 inches wide by 4 1/2 inches tall (without the handle) and 2 1/2 inches deep makes it exceptionally portable. If it is to be displayed on a mantel, a shelf or a desk, it is small enough to be placed anywhere in the home without dominating a room.
The balance and spring-driven platform jeweled escapement that comprised the working mechanism of the carriage clock made it ideal for transportation. The fact that it needed to be transported means it was more robust in dealing with jostling and movement than any other type of clock in it’s day. They were built to last which is why so many of them survive in very good condition to this day. Many had time and strike mechanisms, some with a repeater function, but this is a simpler time-only version.
Back plate showing winding arbour and lever for speed adjustment, with verdigris present
I managed to revitalize the case as you can see in the first two photos. However, the back plate shows a significant amount of oxidization though one hopes that the movement itself is in good condition. This oxidation is called Verdigris. Verdigris is a bright bluish-green encrustation or patina formed on copper or brass by atmospheric oxidation, consisting of basic copper carbonate.
Although the clock came to me in running condition the movement is very dirty and requires disassembly and a thorough cleaning. I am encouraged by the fact that the clock ran through an eight day cycle so I must assume that the jewels in the escapement are in good condition. Repairing jeweled escapements is not something I can do at this stage.
At the moment I see two issues with my clock. One, there is a small break in the lower corner of the beveled glass on the left side which is barely visible and two, the pull handle on the access door is slightly bent. There may be other issues once I get it apart but we’ll cross that bridge when it comes. I might even find that missing piece of beveled glass trapped somewhere in the movement.
During my research concerning the repair and servicing of carriage clocks I have discovered that letting down the mainspring is critical prior to disassembling. I read about a case where the platform escapement was taken off without letting down the mainspring and the result was the contrate wheel (having teeth that are at right angles to the plane of rotation) below the escapement was seriously damaged. I want to avoid that.
At the moment I have too many other clock projects on the go. However, in the meantime, that won’t keep me from displaying this beautifully crafted timepiece in a prominent location.
In a future blog I will report on the steps I will take to bring this clock to a healthy running condition.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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