As a clock enthusiast, collector, or someone simply looking to purchase a dependable antique or vintage clock, it’s natural to consider all your options. Chinese-made mechanical clocks are often attractively priced and readily available through online marketplaces like Facebook Marketplace and eBay, but before clicking “Buy Now,” it’s worth understanding why many horologists and repair professionals caution against these clocks—and why you may want to steer clear of them.
Inferior Craftsmanship and Materials
The most common criticism of Chinese-made mechanical clocks lies in their construction. Many are made using low-grade materials—cheap metals for gears, soft brass for plates, and low-tolerance machining. This results in movements that may run erratically, wear quickly, or fail outright after only a short period.
Chinese companies were producing them by the thousands.
Some of the most frequent problems reported include:
Misaligned pivots and poorly cut gears
Escapements are prone to failure
Strong mainsprings (31-day clocks) that are dangerous to work on
Inaccurate timekeeping, even after careful regulation
Unreliable striking or chiming mechanisms
These issues aren’t just frustrating—they often make the clock uneconomical to repair, since the labor involved exceeds the clock’s value.
A typical Chinese-made movement
Lack of Longevity and Serviceability
High-quality mechanical clocks from North America, Europe, or Japan can run for decades with proper care. By contrast, many Chinese-made mechanical clocks barely survive beyond a few years. The movements are often designed without repair in mind. In some cases, they’re riveted instead of screwed together, making disassembly and servicing impossible or impractical.
If you’re knowledgeable about clock repair, these clocks can be serviced; however, if the parts are excessively worn, replacement parts are virtually impossible to find.
You won’t find service manuals or replacement parts for most Chinese-made movements, and the quality is often so inconsistent that even parts from the same model can’t be interchanged reliably.
Few professional clock repairers will touch these clocks. Those who do will often try to convince you to replace the movement with a quartz one, and to be honest, that’s not a bad option, particularly if the case is in good condition.
Daniel Dakota wall clock
Knock-Off Designs and Deceptive Marketing
Many Chinese mechanical clocks mimic the outward appearance of high-end brands or antique designs. You’ll find skeleton clocks that resemble Hermle or Kieninger movements, regulator wall clocks styled like Vienna regulators, or “box” clocks with none of the refinement of the originals.
Some listings may even use phrases like “German-style movement” or “vintage design” to evoke a sense of quality or authenticity. Don’t be fooled—these are marketing tactics that mask low-grade manufacturing.
They Undermine the Clockmaking Tradition
Purchasing cheaply made mechanical clocks can inadvertently support an industry that values mass production over tradition, quality, and craftsmanship. When you buy from reputable makers or antique sources, you’re helping preserve centuries of horological heritage.
Brands and Labels to Approach with Caution
Western-sounding brand names were created specifically for export to make the products more appealing to North American consumers. While not every clock with a Chinese movement is inherently bad, the following brands and sellers are widely reported in horological forums and repair circles as problematic:
Citizen
Any clock that has “31 day” inscribed on the clock face
Any clock with directional winding arrows
Bulova
Daniel Dakota, the most well-known export brand, sold at big-box stores
Style House
Emperor Clock Company
Kingston
Andover
Tempus Fugit, not an actual brand, but commonly printed on dials of Chinese clocks
Regulator, like “Tempus Fugit,” many wall clocks were simply labeled “Regulator” with no brand
Alaron
Mirado
Elgin, pendulum wall clocks with faux weights or decorative fronts
Westclox / Ingraham (rebranded)
There are many other brands, of course. Many of these are rebranded or unbranded mechanical clocks that look appealing in photos but have disappointing performance.
What to Buy Instead
If you’re seeking a mechanical clock that’s beautiful, functional, and serviceable, consider these alternatives:
Antique or vintage clocks: Seth Thomas, Ansonia, Sessions, Gilbert, Waterbury, Arthur Pequegnat, Gustav Becker, HAC, Mauthe, Junghans, or Kienzle
Modern German makers: Hermle, Kieninger (now part of Howard Miller), Schneider
Japanese movements: Seiko, Rhythm (mostly quartz, but quality nonetheless)
North American producers: Howard Miller (uses German Kieninger movements), older Ridgeway clocks used Hermle and Urgos), Chelsea Clock (USA)
These makers have established reputations, better quality control, and are backed by communities of repair professionals and collectors.
Final Thoughts
The allure of a budget-friendly mechanical clock is understandable. But as with many things, you get what you pay for. A $40 box clock with a Chinese movement may seem like a deal, but when it fails in six months and can’t be fixed, the true cost becomes clear.
I must admit that in my early days of clock collecting and repair, when I was still on the learning curve, I dabbled in these inexpensive clocks, knowing that if the movement wasn’t repairable, I could simply throw it away without feeling guilty, given how little I had paid for it. I had two, one I gave away, and the other was converted to a quartz movement.
If you’re new to collecting or looking for your first mechanical clock, invest in something that has stood the test of time or comes from a manufacturer with a reputation for quality.
Back in 2017, I took on the restoration of a Junghans Crispi wall clock—a project that began with enthusiasm but has since tested my patience more than once. While the case restoration went smoothly, the movement has been another story. Despite professional servicing, bushing work, and later my own repair attempts, the strike side has never been entirely reliable.
Junghans Crispi wall clock, circa 1899
Over the years, the clock ran well for a while, then faltered, especially in the strike train. A broken lever spring, a bent arbor, erratic striking, and a few close calls with delicate repairs have all played a part. In late 2024, the clock began stalling just before the warning phase, prompting me to extract the movement from its case to determine the cause of the stoppage.
Now, in Spring 2025, I’ve returned to the movement with a fresh perspective. The time side still runs fine, but the strike side remains unreliable. Based on my experience with similar movements, I suspect a combination of issues: a weak strike mainspring, one or more bent pivots, and poor alignment between the paddle and star wheel.
Junghans movement with the rear plate removed
In this post, I’ll walk through the next phase of troubleshooting—cleaning the movement, inspecting the spring, inspecting pivots, and adjusting the star wheel—to see if this clock, stubborn as it is, can finally be brought into reliable service.
Junghans movement showing hammer and suspension components
The first part of this two-part series can be found here.
Minor issues, But Nothing Too Troubling
After having disassembled the movement, cleaning it thoroughly, and inspecting for pivot and bushing wear as well as the possibility of a broken lever spring and a bent pivot, I am now satisfied that there is nothing mechanically wrong with the movement.
I assembled it and ran the time side for several days. The time train ran smoothly. I then wound the strike side and discovered two issues. One, the stop wheel was not in the correct position. For warning to take place, it should rotate about half a turn, which will set up the strike. The locking pin should be in the 10 to 12 o’clock position. The photo below shows it in the 2 o’clock position.
The locking pin is at the 2 o’clock position when it should be between the 10 and 12 o’clock positions
To make this adjustment, there is no need to take the movement apart; simply loosen the movement nut nearest the fan as well as slightly loosen the nut on the time side. Of course, if in the process of testing the strike side, it is important to double-check that both mainsprings are let down before opening up the plate. Once the fly and the locking wheel are free, they can be positioned correctly. The locking point is also determined by the cam, and the lever must be in its slot while the adjustments are taking place.
The Strike Hammer Tail
The other issue is the strike hammer tail.
Once reassembled, I also discovered that the hammer tail was resting on one of the star points. At rest, the strike paddle must sit between two star points. When the hammer tail rests on a star point, it impedes the action of the strike train. The hammer tail must be clear of the lifting star at the end of each strike sequence.
Hammer tail is resting on one of the stars of the star wheel, the lever spring on the hammer arbour is shown
I believe I have found the problem with the strike side. However, there are two more adjustments that are needed before I put the movement on a test stand. One, the hammer lever spring is not providing any tension. I know that if I risk bending it, it will snap, but I will take that chance. I have repaired lever springs in the past, and it should be an easy fix if I break it. The other issue is a loose click on the strike side, which will require completely disassembling the movement to access the rivet from the inside. Once these two items are attended to, I can test the movement.
It’s still a work in progress, but I feel I’m very close to achieving a successful resolution to issues regarding the movement.
I receive a number of letters each day from clock enthusiasts, first-time buyers, and people who have inherited family clocks, among others. Typically, I share these letters—while keeping the writer’s identity and location confidential. However, in this case, I’ve chosen not to publish the letter, as doing so would reveal both the sender’s identity and the name of a specific clock repair shop.
I received a letter from DV from Australia who wanted to know more about a recent clock purchase.
DV Writes
We recently picked up a Mauthe Wall clock from an auction and were hoping you could help date and value it. I have attached some photos, but because of the signature, I was thinking around 1946 in accordance with the different trademarks.
Regards,
Mauthe wall clock
My Reply
What a wonderful clock, DV. I really like the lower glass treatment. The crown is stately, if overdone; such was the style at the time. The hunting motif is interesting, though usually it is carried over to the pendulum as well. The trademark name on the movement is Mauthe, a prolific and respected clockmaker in the early 20th century. Mauthe had many trademark styles, but the one on your clock was used after 1911, so, between 1911 and 1914, I would say.
An ornate pendulum but possibly a mismatch
Clocks of this type are often missing pieces such as the finials, hands, and other case parts, though yours appears to be intact. It is a half-hour strike clock. Everything appears “nearly” correct, including the winding key. Usually, clocks like this will sell in the $300 to $500 range, but because it is original and unique, I would value it between $500 and $1000.
Clock face depicting a hunting motif
The numbers on the left of the movement are pendulum length in cms and beats per minute. On the right is an inventory number.
Two small negatives are the beat scale, which should be attached below the pendulum, at or near the bottom, and a possible mismatch of the pendulum to the clock dial. If the pendulum is a mismatch, that would certainly affect the value.
Of course, the clock movement is very dirty and needs an overhaul to run reliably in the future.
DV Writes Back
Thank you so much for the information. We just love it and it has found a wall in our house.
I definitely see that the pendulum is a mismatch, now that you point it out, as it doesn’t make any sense to have a hunting theme mixed with signs of love.
The beat scale looks to be in its original location, as I can not find a hole at the bottom of the case. I guess it could be a reused case; this is a different movement, as the movement is very hard to move on the bracket.
Regardless, we love it and are grateful for the information you have been able to provide.
Have a good day/night, as it is only 0640 am here in Western Australia.
Regards,
Author’s Note
The beat scale appears to be a later addition, likely installed by someone unfamiliar with its proper placement within the case. While it is quite possible that the clock is a marriage, beauty remains in the eye of the beholder. Despite its imperfections, it is sure to be valued by its owner.
If you’re new to clock repair or restoration, one of the first hands-on steps you’ll encounter is removing the movement from its case. This process needs to be done with care to avoid damaging delicate components.
Sessions Beveled #2mantel clock
Start by taking several clear photos of the clock from all angles—front, back, sides, and inside. These images will be your reference when it’s time to reassemble everything. Next, gently remove the pendulum by unhooking it from the suspension spring or leader. Set it aside somewhere safe.
Removing a movement through the rear access door
I highly recommend using small containers to store any clock parts, screws, or retainers removed during disassembly—there’s no greater frustration in clock repair than losing a tiny screw.
Next, remove the hands. Unscrew the hands nut or remove the brass or steel taper pin holding the minute hand in place. There may also be a brass compression spacer attached to the minute hand. Lift and remove it and the minute hand. The hour hand is friction-fit on the hour pipe; simply pull it off.
The movement is removed from the front after taking off the dial and hands
In some designs, such as those requiring the removal of the movement through a rear access door, lay the clock flat to get better access. As a precautionary measure, it is advisable to remove the glass dial in advance, since placing the clock face down while working on the movement may result in the glass cracking (yes, that has happened to me). If the dial is removed, watch for tiny screws, clips, or pins—and keep track of how it was attached.
If the springs are open and relaxed inside the case, it may be difficult to remove the movement. Wind both mainsprings tightly.
Now locate the movement’s mounting hardware. Most movements are secured with case screws—usually at least four, one at each corner. On some clocks, you must remove the strike block before the movement can be taken out. This block is typically held in place by a large screw on the bottom of the case. In German wall and floor clocks, the movement is often mounted to a seat board and secured with two thumb screws. Simply unscrew the thumb screws and slide the movement forward to remove it.
At this point, you should be able to gently slide or lift the movement out of the case. There are times when the access door is so small that the movement must be carefully maneuvered to remove it.
Once everything is removed and stored properly, you’re ready to inspect the movement for cleaning, bushings, or further repair.
If the clock is spring-driven and still wound, always let the power down using a let-down tool set. However, before doing so, wind the springs, insert a clamp, or wrap a wire around the mainspring to secure it. If the spring is housed in a barrel, letting it down allows the mainspring to relax safely within the barrel. This ensures safety during the removal process and prevents damage from a sudden release of tension.
The movement is removed from the case and is ready for inspection
And now you are ready for the next steps.
Taking it slow and staying organized will save you time (and frustration) later on.
I have never been completely happy with how the movement runs in this Junghans Crispi wall clock. When I got the clock in 2017, I jumped right into restoring the case because it was an interesting challenge to put the clock together from a bunch of parts.
Junghans wall clock, circa 1899, model – Crispi
Now, eight years later, the clock continues to disappoint. The case remains in great shape, but the movement has been a consistent letdown.
Movement as found, about as dirty as it gets
Let’s take a step back in time.
Winter2017
After completing the work on the case, I turned my attention to the movement. During the disassembly and reassembly process, I accidentally broke not only the strike paddle but also a retention spring. In 2017, my skills weren’t advanced enough to repair the paddle and retaining spring myself, so I had the movement professionally serviced.
Broken strike paddle
During its 2017 service, the paddle was repaired and a new spring was installed. In addition, the movement had received extensive bushing work: six bushings on the front plate and six on the rear.
Three months later, I picked up the clock and hung it on my dining room wall. It ran perfectly for over two and a half years.
Spring2020
For some undetermined reason, the strike became erratic—it would strike incorrectly, fail to strike at all or strike incessantly until the mainspring ran down.
I had a number of other clock projects on the go so I kept the time side going and left it on the wall until later that year.
December 2020
In December, I disassembled the movement and discovered a slightly bent arbor on the strike side cam wheel. All other pivots were straight, and there were no noticeably worn pivot holes—everything else appeared to be in good condition.
I did notice a small amount of dirty oil around many of the pivots. While I was initially a bit surprised, it’s not entirely unusual after more than two years of regular operation.
Unfortunately, disaster struck again. While manipulating the plates, I snapped the paddle arbor retention spring—again! This time, however, I was able to repair it myself.
There was just enough of the original spring left to reuse. The wire is very thin (0.5 mm), extremely brittle, and breaks easily under even light pressure. Using a micro drill with a 0.5 mm HSS bit, I carefully enlarged the existing hole in the plate, reinstalled the spring, and secured it with Threadlocker Red to bond it firmly in place.
The movement was reassembled and tested. After the testing period the movement was returned to its case and ran well until about 6 months ago.
Fall 2024
While the time side was running well, the erratic striking returned, and after a few weeks, the clock began stopping just before the warning phase. I wound both the time and strike sides again to replicate the problem, and each time it stopped at the warning point. Feeling frustrated, I left the clock on the wall, wound only the time side, and still it stopped. Since I had other projects to tend to, I decided to leave this one on the back burner for a while.
The movement on a test stand
Spring 2025
Since I was free of immediate projects, I removed the movement from its case and placed it on the test stand. As expected, the time side ran fine. It was serviced not so long ago. For the last couple of months, however, it has been striking erratically or not at all. It enters warning without issue, but seems to almost stall during the striking process. I want to address this issue, but I also want to disassemble the movement to clean up both the pivots and the bushing holes, as the oil is dirtier than I expected.
Judging from similar movements I’ve worked on, I believe there are three issues at play:
A power issue, which suggests the mainspring is weak.
One or more bent pivots, preventing the wheels from turning freely.
The paddle is not correctly positioned in relation to the star wheel. The hammer begins lifting immediately at the drop-off, which stalls the strike train. Once it gets going again, the hammer lifts easily and quickly. I’ll try repositioning the star wheel to allow more run time before the hammer paddle is engaged.
The first issue means replacing the strike-side mainspring. The second issue involves manipulating pivots. There is always a risk of breaking a pivot when attempting to straighten it, not a pleasant experience, as re-pivoting is necessary.
Check back later for an update on what I discovered—which of the three issues turned out to be the culprit, and whether I was finally able to fix a clock that, at times, seems determined not to be fixed.
A German-made Mauthe time-and-strike wall clock, likely from the late 1940s, was gifted to my father-in-law—a physician in a small Nova Scotia town—by a grateful secretary, likely in the mid-to-late 1960s. It hung in the family home until 1997 when it was packed away during a move and eventually passed to the user’s brother-in-law. The clock was never displayed again and remained in storage for decades.
Recently, I was asked to restore it. My wife recalls the clock from childhood, confirming its presence in the home for many years. A service sticker inside the door, from “Time Center” in Amherst, Nova Scotia, suggests it was professionally serviced sometime between 1974 and 1996, most likely in the 1980s.
Now, after years of neglect, the clock is due for a full movement cleaning and cosmetic case touch-up.
I’ll cover the case restoration in this article. Surprisingly little must be done to the case, although it is dull with age and has a few minor scratches.
A word about Clock Cases
I’m firmly opposed to stripping and refinishing clock cases for two key reasons. First, it destroys the original patina—a quality many collectors value and appreciate in antique clocks. Second, the finishing techniques used when these clocks were made are nearly impossible to replicate today. As a result, refinishing often produces a sanitized look that lacks the character and authenticity of the original.
Instead, I will begin by cleaning the case and attempting to minimize the nicks and scratches that have accumulated over time through normal use, using a light coat.
Cleaning and touch-ups
The Case
The clock case was cleaned and given two light coats of Minwax wipe-on poly, with a light sanding between applications. For the final polish, 2500-grit sandpaper was used to achieve a smooth finish.
The poly finish helped conceal minor scratches, though some faint marks remain visible upon close inspection.
The glass was thoroughly cleaned, and the brass strips on the door were polished using Brasso.
The spun brass bezel was also polished with Brasso. While there is some minor wear visible on the dial face, I chose to leave it untouched, aside from a gentle cleaning with soap and water, as it is not particularly noticeable from a normal viewing distance.
While I was working on the case, the movement was undergoing testing. It’s now at the end of the first testing phase, and the next step is to reinstall it into the case and continue with testing.
The complete clock
The movement dial is attached to the movement using four pins, one at each corner. Once the dial is in place, the hands are installed—first the hour hand, followed by the minute hand.
Once the dial is mounted on the movement and attached to the seat board, the assembly can be slid into the channels in the case and screwed into place. Under the seat board are two thumbscrews used to secure the movement.
The main challenge was positioning the strike hammers so they rest about 1/8″ from the strike rods. This involved some trial and error, requiring the movement to be removed several times for fine adjustments. The hammer rods are somewhat pliable and can be carefully bent into the correct position.
Finally
This well-traveled Mauthe clock has finally returned to active duty, proudly ticking away once more after decades in storage. With both the case and movement restored, it now stands as a meaningful family heirloom and a fine example of mid-century German craftsmanship.
Many years ago, my father-in-law received a gift from his secretary. As a physician in a small town in Nova Scotia, it was once common practice to accept small tokens of appreciation from fellow employees. The gift was a German-made Mauthe time-and-strike wall clock, often referred to today as a “box clock” and made sometime in the late 1940s.
It hung on the wall in my in-laws’ home until 1997, when they moved to a smaller house in the same town to downsize. The clock was packed away and never rehung in their new home. Instead, my brother-in-law took it to his home, about three hours away, presumably intending to display it. However, it remained in storage and was never hung.
Mauthe time and strike box clock
Recently, he asked if I could service the movement and restore the clock, and I gladly agreed.
My wife remembers the clock from her childhood, recalling it from when she was a young girl. This suggests it was gifted in the mid-to-late 1960s. Her father proudly hung the clock in the family home, and I remember his weekly ritual of winding it.
It was evidently serviced at least once. Inside the clock’s door, there is a sticker from a clockmaker in Amherst, identifying the repairer as Time Center, 5 Westminster Ave, Amherst. However, an online search yielded no information about this business. The sticker includes a Canadian postal code, which indicates that the clock was serviced after 1974, when postal codes were introduced in Nova Scotia. This means the servicing took place sometime between 1974 and 1996, though I cannot pinpoint the exact year. It likely would have been serviced in the 1980s.
A jewelry shop in Amherst, Nova Scotia, circa 1940s
After many years stored, it is long overdue for a cleaning. The plan is to service the movement and touch up a tired case.
Servicing the Movement
Before taking the clock apart, I wanted to see if it still worked. I removed the movement, oiled the pivots, and then placed the movement back into the case. I hung the clock on the wall in my office, wound it, attached the pendulum, and gave it a push. To my surprise, it ran for a while—despite having been in storage for years. Running the clock also reassured me that I likely wouldn’t encounter any significant mechanical issues.
The front plate is removed to show the two trains
However, the only way to confirm any wear for certain would be to disassemble the movement, which I proceeded to do.
Second wheels with robust Leaf pinions
I disassembled the movement, put all the parts in an ultrasonic cleaner, dried the parts after the cleaning, pegged the pivot holes, polished the pivots, and now checked for wear. I generally assemble the trains separately with the strike side first, since often it is the greater source of wear. I then move to the time side.
The movement looked to be in very good condition overall, though I noticed some wear in six of the pivot holes. The most worn appeared to be the third wheel on the backplate (or star wheel), and the second wheel on the time side backplate. In the end, I installed only two bushings—those pivot holes were in the worst condition.
This is a family clock, and I doubt it will see daily use; it’s more likely to serve as a decorative piece. If I were doing this as a professional repair, I would have addressed all signs of wear, which in this case might have meant installing up to six bushings.
Springs barrels with partially exposed mainsprings
I’m also donating my time to this project, so if the clock stops after a couple of years, I’d have no problem servicing it again.
The mainsprings were serviced by removing them from their barrels, thoroughly cleaning them, and then applying fresh oil. The barrels and their caps were also cleaned to remove any residual oil and were placed in the ultrasonic cleaner for a deep clean.
Mauthe clock dial
Reassembly
Transitioning from a typical American antique clock movement to a German one is a significant step, primarily because you’re dealing with much smaller pivots, which greatly increases the risk of bending or breaking them. Those who have replaced pivots before know how challenging the process can be—and that it requires specialized equipment, such as a metal lathe. This is a case where it’s essential to resist the urge to force the pivots into their respective holes and instead exercise a great deal of patience.
A pivot locator is an essential tool that every clock repair person should have in their toolbox.
Pivot locator
Assembling the movement begins with inserting the mainspring barrels onto the backplate. The third wheel on the time side is positioned between the barrels, which means the barrels go in first, then the third wheel and the three-wing retaining spring on the top are then secured in place. After that, all the other gears and put in place.
Once everything is where it should be, the front plate is positioned and secured in place by the two movement nuts on the barrel end, which helps prevent the plates from separating while aligning the pivots up the trains into their respective holes. On the strike side, I generally leave the fly and stop wheel out until the very last moment.
The escapement is worked in through the opening on the front plate after the movement is assembled and the two screws for the suspension spring bridge secure the escapement in place. Once they are in place, it is time to work on the front plate by installing the levers, the rack, and the snail.
This movement has four strike hammers. It produces its distinctive bim-bam sound by having one hammer strike the outermost rod, while the other three simultaneously strike the remaining rods. The arrangement involves a paddle and “L” rod system (one hammer on the paddle and three on the “L” rod), and both must be positioned between two points of the star wheel.
“L” rod and paddle in the centre of the photo
If not, one or the other may get caught on a star point and stop the strike. Sometimes, I’m successful on the first try; otherwise, I must open the plates and reposition the star wheel. In this case, I got it right the first time.
The only other adjustment to be mindful of is ensuring that the pin on the warning wheel—the uppermost gear on the strike side—is positioned roughly at the 12 o’clock mark. This ensures that the wheel spins enough to properly set up the warning.
Testing
I take a cautious step-by-step approach during the testing phase. I wind the time side first, observe the movement and the action of the escapement, and make any necessary adjustments to ensure that once the movement is level, the escapement is in beat. I then run it for 24 hours.
Once I’m satisfied that the time side will run reliably, I shift my focus to the strike side. I check the movement, ensure there aren’t any obvious obstructions, wind the strike side mainspring, and observe its action, taking care to note the position of the lever on the snail to ensure that all 12 hours strike properly. I did have to make one small correction. I adjusted the snail by removing it, repositioning it one cog to the left, and reinserting it to ensure it aligned properly with the flat sections.
I typically test for about 2 weeks or 2 eight-day cycles before I reinstall it into the case. Once in the case, I resumed testing for another two cycles.
Summary
I’ll cover the case restoration in a separate article. Notably, surprisingly little must be done to the case, although it is dull with age and has a few minor scratches.
This project is particularly rewarding because it’s a family clock. It has been in the family for nearly 60 years and was a source of pride for my father-in-law. Were he still with us, I’m sure he’d be pleased to know that it’s being carefully restored to its original condition.
I receive a number of letters each day from clock enthusiasts, first-time buyers, and people who have inherited family clocks, among others. Typically, I share these letters—while keeping the writer’s identity and location confidential. However, in this case, I’ve chosen not to publish the letter, as doing so would reveal both the sender’s identity and the name of a specific clock repair shop.
Recently, I corresponded with a couple living in the northwestern United States. They inquired about the value of a 120-year-old German-made clock. A repairer had quoted them $2,500 for servicing and repairs, claiming the clock would then be guaranteed for 30 years and valued at $10,000. I asked them to send a photo for reference. While I won’t be posting their photo to protect their privacy, I will share an image of a very similar clock from my own collection.
Once I was sent the photo of the clock I was able to comment.
I replied,
Thank you for sharing the photo of your clock. Based on what I see, I wouldn’t date your clock as early as 1900. This type of clock is commonly referred to as “box clock” by collectors and enthusiasts. These time and strike wall clocks were produced in large quantities after the First World War and remained popular well into the late 1940s.
I’ve worked on many clocks of this type. The movements are generally well-engineered, and it’s rare to encounter serious mechanical issues. In my experience, the most significant problem you might run into is a broken mainspring. Even then, collateral damage to the time or strike train is uncommon.
If I may be candid, the repair cost you mentioned strikes me as quite high even if it included refurbishing the case. Also, it’s worth noting that no repair shop can realistically guarantee a clock movement for 30 years. Mechanical clocks typically need to be inspected and oiled every 3–5 years. Assuming the clock is running daily, a service interval of around five years is standard.
Regarding value: I’ve purchased several clocks of this type, and the most I’ve ever paid is $300.
If the clock has special provenance, that could certainly influence its assessed value.
And finally, my comments are based solely on the photo you provided. If the photo was sent in error and you’re referring to a different clock, please let me know.
Hope this helps.”
Common time and strike box clock movement
Let me say at this point that what I might be willing to pay for a clock may not reflect the values typically seen on online auction sites. I’ve become quite skilled at spotting good value when it comes to clocks.
In any event, I received a reply—once again, I won’t share it verbatim—but it partly supported what I had said while also questioning my estimate of the clock’s value and its age. I will add the clock in question had an unmarked movement and no maker’s name on the dial.
I replied,
“Thanks again for sharing more about your clock and the estimate you received. It’s clear you’ve put a lot of thought into preserving it, which is always wonderful to see. As I mentioned, these German wall clocks were especially popular from just after the First World War through to the 1940s. They were well-made and produced in large numbers by respected manufacturers in the Black Forest region.
As I also noted, I’ve purchased several clocks of this type, and the most I’ve ever paid is $300. While they may command higher prices in some cases, it’s uncommon to see them valued in the range your clock repairer suggests. There are always exceptions—particularly if a clock has an unusual history or distinctive design—but most tend to fall within the hundreds of dollars rather than the thousands.
Additionally, makers such as Junghans, Gustav Becker, Kienzle, and HAC almost always stamped their movements with trademarks as a point of pride. It’s true that I’ve seen and worked on some unmarked German movements, but they’re the exception rather than the rule.
At the end of the day, it really comes down to which perspective you find more convincing—whether it’s the valuation provided by the repair shop or the experience of collectors who regularly see these clocks. I simply offer my observations based on years of hands-on experience with similar clocks. Whatever you decide, I sincerely hope the clock brings you lasting enjoyment.”
I received a polite “thank you”
Key Takeaway
The key takeaway for readers is that opinions on a clock’s value can vary widely. In fact, two experts may arrive at very different conclusions. Yet, when it comes to estimating the worth of an antique clock, those same experts might not be as far apart as it first seems.
I believe the person who wrote to me had some reservations about the information they received from the clock repair shop—likely the reason they sought a second opinion. This case is also a rather extreme example, and it is my hope the inquirer will ask serious questions of the individual/shop working on their clock.
If you have a clock in need of repair, and the cost of repair seems steep, it is always prudent to ask for a second opinion from a collector or another clock repair shop.
Sometimes, demonstrating a task is easier than explaining it. This 14-minute beginner’s guide covers the basics of winding a mechanical clock, which is perfect for those who have just purchased their first one and need guidance.
The video explains how to wind different types of antique and vintage clocks, including shelf clocks, tall case clocks, wall clocks, and mantel clocks.
How to wind a mechanical clock – a beginner’s guide
It also covers the types of winding keys used and the importance of winding all necessary points. The guide begins with a brief introduction before demonstrating the winding process on various clock styles.
I’m no expert when it comes to making videos, but I try my best. If I missed a step, please let me know in the comments. Also, if there are more how-to videos you’d like to see, feel free to share your suggestions.
For clock collectors, presentation is just as important as the clocks themselves. A well-arranged collection not only enhances a space but also invites conversation and appreciation. While some collectors prefer to distribute their clocks throughout their home, others opt to showcase them all in one dedicated space. Regardless of your approach, thoughtful arrangement can make a significant difference.
Seth Thomas in an entrance hallway
One general guideline is to avoid clustering too many clocks in one area, allowing each piece to stand out. However, if you prefer to group multiple clocks together, consider organizing them by maker, style, type, era, or country of origin. A collection arranged with a clear theme creates a cohesive and visually appealing display, whereas a more haphazard approach can feel cluttered and overwhelming.
Deciding How Many Clocks to Display
Many collectors set limits on how many clocks are displayed at one time—and how many are actually running. While I keep most of my displayed clocks running, I occasionally let some take a “break.” Changing a clock’s location from time to time can refresh a room’s look, though it’s important to remember that some clocks are sensitive to movement.
Ingraham Huron shelf clock on a Westinghouse floor model radio
For example, in one of my larger rooms, I have four clocks, but they are spaced out so as not to compete for attention. The most striking piece is a 2-weight Gustav Becker Vienna regulator from 1902—at 51 inches tall, it naturally commands the space. On another wall is a Arthur Pequegnat wall clock, an Ingraham shelf clock that sits on an old Westinghouse radio, and a 1996 Ridgeway tall case to complete the arrangement. The layout ensures that each clock is showcased without overwhelming the room.
Gustav Becker and Ridgeway (foreground)
Placement Considerations
Some collectors prefer to dedicate a single room to their clocks, creating a focused display, while others, like myself, enjoy integrating clocks throughout the home. Of course, what works best also depends on what your partner is willing to tolerate!
In my entrance hallway, for example, my Seth Thomas Regulator #2 greets the visitor to my home. Also in the hallway is an Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time wall clock.
On the second floor, a Pequegnat Brandon schoolhouse clock is positioned where it can be admired, but in keeping with a simple household rule—no striking clocks upstairs to ensure a peaceful night’s sleep.
In the dining room, a Gilbert shelf clock sits atop a 1947 Stromberg Carlson console radio, blending vintage charm with functionality.
The Art of Thoughtful Display
Arranging a clock collection takes more than just placing timepieces on a shelf—it requires an eye for balance, harmony, and practicality. A well-considered display not only highlights the beauty of each clock but also enhances the overall aesthetic of your home. Whether you prefer a carefully curated showcase or a more casual arrangement, the key is to strike a balance between functionality and visual appeal.
Our Kitchen clock
How do you display your collection? Do you prefer grouping clocks together, or spreading them throughout your home? Let me know your thoughts!
I generally do not reveal the names of those who write to me when sharing their comments. I attempted to reach out to the author, but after several months without a response, I believe quoting their letter does not breach confidence, especially as I have also safeguarded their location.
It’s a sincere message, so here it is.
“I Just stumbled across your article. Theodor Jauch’s company was my grandfather’s. It was located in Deisslingen (not Schwenningen which is a nearby larger town). I grew up in Ireland, but as a boy, we visited my grandfather regularly, he lived in an apartment at one end of the U shaped factory building, to reach it one walked down a corridor with about 3 offices on each side, each with what seemed like 100 clocks in it, each chiming at different times.
An example of aJauch clock, a time and strike wall clock
After my grandfather’s death, it passed to my father and his older brother, soon thereafter as far as I know it was wholly owned by his brother when the estate was settled, but went bankrupt within several years (1976). I do know from my father, that while some clocks were sold in the USA, far more clock mechanisms were sold to US companies who put them into their own housing designs. I do of course have one of the wall clocks, with the 2 weights, on my living room wall (and recently brought another one from a family member in Germany, back to another family member in USA.”
A time-only calendar schoolhouse clock
Thank you so much for reaching out and sharing such a personal and fascinating glimpse into your family’s history. I’m particularly intrigued by the vivid image of the factory building and the offices filled with clocks striking/chiming at different times—it must have been such a unique experience for a young boy to witness.
It’s also interesting to learn that Deisslingen, rather than Schwenningen, was the true home of the company. These details help paint a fuller picture of Jauch’s history, and I deeply appreciate you taking the time to share them.
The insight about clock movements being sold to U.S. companies aligns with the approach of many clock manufacturers of that era. This was a common practice.
It’s wonderful to hear that you’ve preserved a piece of this legacy with one of Jauch’s wall clocks on your living room wall, The connection to these clocks clearly goes beyond just their functionality—they’re a tangible link to your family’s story.
Thank you again for taking the time to share your memories. It’s been a privilege to hear your perspective, and I hope we can continue this conversation.
Have you ever come across the term FrankenClock in the world of clock collecting? If not, let me explain.
Imagine purchasing a clock, hoping that every mechanical component, finial, and piece of trim is original, only to later discover—through experience, research, or sheer luck—that it isn’t. How would that make you feel? Disappointed? Cheated? Many collectors have faced this reality. A clock with non-original or mismatched parts is often referred to as a FrankenClock.
A Case in Point -A Gustav Becker Two-Weight Vienna Regulator
To illustrate, let me share the story of my own Vienna regulator clock that I purchased in 2016. At a glance, it presents very well, keeps excellent time, and has undergone necessary restoration, thorough cleaning, oiling, and case repairs. But is it original in every way? No, not by a long shot.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator
When I purchased this clock, it was sold as a “project clock,” with the seller making no claims about its originality—a fair and transparent transaction reflected in what I determined to be a fair price in 2016. Over time, I uncovered several details that revealed its true history.
The following is what I now know concerning my Gustav Becker 8-day time and strike wall clock
The Glass Panels
When the clock arrived, I had no way of knowing whether the glass panels—the front door glass and side lights—were original. It became a moot point when they shattered during shipping. The case also sustained damage, though not severe enough to require new parts—mostly just glue failing and pieces coming loose. When I took the case to a glass installer, they asked two key questions: Why is the side glass thicker than the front glass? And why were finishing nails used to secure the panels? These details cast doubt on whether the glass that came with the clock was original. In any event, the panels were replaced with new glass.
What I had assumed to be original was, in fact, another chapter in the clock’s long journey.
The Weights
At first glance, the clock’s two weights appeared identical. However, closer inspection revealed a subtle difference in their hook designs. Given Gustav Becker’s reputation for precision, it seems unlikely that the factory would have issued mismatched weights. This suggests that at least one weight is a replacement (and probably both, for that matter).
The Movement
The movement appears appropriate for the period and case, but is it original? The seller had disclosed missing parts, including the star wheel/snail, strike hammer, and rod. Additionally, the gathering pallet was bent, preventing the strike side from functioning. It was evidently harvested for parts.
Determined to restore the clock, I sourced what I thought was an exact donor movement from Poland—specifically from Gustav Becker’s Braunau factory (as opposed to the Silesia factory). However, despite being only 16 years newer, the donor movement had subtle differences: thinner plates, redesigned lever springs, a slightly thicker minute arbour shaft, and incompatible strike components. Unfortunately, the replacement parts were not interchangeable with the original movement.
Though disappointed, I decided to swap the entire movement, though I kept the original movement for transparency. If I ever sell the clock, I will disclose this change along with all other modifications.
It gets better (or worse).
Replacement hands and brass bezel
Other Replacements and Repairs
The spun brass dial bezel is a period-correct replacement which I sourced because the original was bent during shipment.
Some trim pieces, such as the bottom finials may have been added later, though their exact origin remains uncertain.
The bottom center finial is a replacement. Interestingly, it has wormwood holes, whereas the case itself has no traces of worm damage.
The clock originally had Ogee clock hands rather than Vienna regulator hands. Ogee clock hands are not correct for this clock. After an extensive search through suppliers in Canada, the U.S., and Britain, I was surprised by the limited availability of Vienna regulator hands. Eventually, I sourced a set from Poland. Although they are not historically accurate and not the design that might have been on the clock face at the time, I eventually settled on sleeker hands that look appropriate and will suffice for now.
Lessons Learned
I hesitate to dig any deeper into this clock, fearing I will uncover even more shortcomings.
Despite its mix of original and replacement parts, this clock remains a valuable learning experience.
Many collectors unknowingly own FrankenClocks—clocks that have been altered with non-original or mismatched parts. While reputable auction houses often disclose repairs, replacements, or questionable components, online listings are far less reliable. Sellers on popular online marketplaces may not always be aware of a clock’s history or may choose to omit important details.
When buying a clock, especially online, approach with caution. Examine all available photos carefully, looking for inconsistencies in the case, dial, hands, movement, and other components. Ask the seller direct questions about originality, repairs, or missing parts, and request additional photos if something seems unclear. If possible, compare the clock to known examples from reference books, collector forums, online image searches, or auction archives.
Be particularly wary of listings that provide vague descriptions, low-quality images, or no mention of service history. A clock that looks pristine may have been heavily restored, while one advertised as “original” may contain replacement parts that significantly affect its value. If purchasing in person, inspect the clock thoroughly—check for signs of “over-restoration”, mismatched components, or modern hardware securing old parts. If I see a Robertson or Phillips screws on a 100+-year-old clock I immediately back away.
Ultimately, knowledge is your best defense. The more informed you are about a particular clock model, the better equipped you’ll be to recognize potential red flags before making a purchase.
Allow me to take 5 minutes of your time to watch my video of 19 wall clocks in my collection. Each wall clock is identified by its maker, where known. The video features background music throughout, with a brief segment of sound highlighting the winding of a Mauthe wall clock. Otherwise, there is no dialog.
My only requirement is that the clock must be in good working order and have an appealing appearance.
19 wall clocks in my collection
My entire collection consists of 85 clocks. Many are on display in my home, and some are in the process of restoration or repair.
I have a collection of 11 Arthur Pequegnat clocks, including three beautiful wall clocks which you can view on this 5-minute YouTube video.
I have written extensively about the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company, but to summarize: the company was founded in Berlin, Ontario (renamed Kitchener in 1917) in 1904 and produced its final clock in 1941.
As regular readers know, I have been a passionate collector for 15 years, I take great joy in repairing and restoring old clocks. My collection has grown to 85 unique timepieces, each with its own story.
Background music and titles are provided only. If you have any questions about my Pequegnat collection or a specific clock, feel free to leave a comment.
For more about my journey and insights into clock collecting, explore my other blog articles.
Buying your first clock is an exciting journey, but it can also feel a bit daunting. In this article, I’ll share some practical tips and advice to help you choose your first clock and discuss the various types of clocks to consider.
One of the goals of this blog is to introduce antique and vintage clocks to younger generations and inspire an appreciation for these remarkable mechanical devices from the past. In today’s modern age of a throw-away culture, how many items can you think of that still function flawlessly after more than a century? It is a short list indeed!
Before we get started, let me clarify two key assumptions. First, I’m assuming you’re not purchasing your first clock with the goal of turning a profit. If profit is your motive I won’t be much help to you. Having collected clocks for many years, I can tell you that buying and selling clocks rarely yields significant financial returns. Of course, there are always exceptions.
Second, this guide focuses on mechanical clocks rather than electric, quartz, or electro-mechanical models. While some of the latter are certainly attractive, there are other resources available for learning more about these types of clocks.
An antique mechanical clock operates through a system of metal gears and levers, powered by weights or springs, wound manually, and displays the time. These clocks were essential for daily life in the past, providing reliable timekeeping that helped people manage their routines, coordinate activities, and regulate work, particularly before the advent of modern electrical or digital timekeeping devices.
Let’s explore why you would want an antique or vintage clock.
Choosing an Antique or Vintage Clock
Is the clock for decoration, an expression of your new interest in horology, or are you starting a collection? Your motivation for acquiring your first clock is important, as it involves an investment of your money.
Establishing a budget is essential to guide your decision. If your primary goal is to use the clock as a decorative piece, the condition of the case may take priority, and whether the movement works might not be a concern. However, if you want a functional clock and the one you choose is not in working condition, you’ll need to account for potential repair or restoration costs in your budget.
When considering the clock’s condition, it’s important to assess whether it’s running or in need of repair. A case that shows significant wear often indicates that the movement may also be in poor condition. Some damage can be repaired, but other types of damage may be expensive to fix, and if the clock was inexpensive to begin with, the cost of repairs may outweigh the value. An example of this is pieces of veneer missing on a clock. While small imperfections may be acceptable, large areas of missing veneer can significantly affect the clock’s appearance. Replacing large sections of veneer should be left to a professional restorer.
The case requires new sections of veneer
Clocks with an interesting provenance may not only be more desirable to collectors but can also serve as fascinating conversation starters. Understanding who made the clock and where it was produced is crucial. A clock from a renowned manufacturer or region known for quality craftsmanship can be more valuable.
A clock with a well-documented ownership history, especially if it has been in the hands of notable individuals or has an intriguing backstory, can make it more desirable. If it was owned by a historical figure or used in a significant event, this can greatly enhance its appeal.
Look for original labels, receipts, or certificates of authenticity that confirm the clock’s origin, age, and maker.
If the clock has thorough documentation, be prepared to pay a premium price. Look for a clock with a known history of quality repairs or restorations, especially if these were done by reputable professionals.
The location and placement of the clock can influence your choice of type and size. For example, in a 600-square-foot apartment, a grandfather clock might not be the best option. A small mantel or novelty clock can be placed almost anywhere, while wall clocks don’t take up valuable floor or shelf space.
Antique and vintage mechanical clocks require periodic care and upkeep because their components are subject to wear and aging over time. The materials used in older clocks, such as metal gears, springs, and wood, can degrade or become less effective without regular maintenance. This should be taken into account when making your decision.
An emotional connection is important. You should select a clock that you genuinely connect with, as it will become a lasting part of your environment. Purchasing a clock simply because it’s inexpensive, but not to your taste, may lead to regret.
And finally, consider starting with a straightforward, reliable clock before diving into more complex or high-maintenance pieces.
Here are the Types of Clocks to Considerand Why
Mantel Clocks are compact clocks designed to sit on a mantelpiece or shelf. They often feature a strike while some might also feature a chiming mechanism such as Westminster chimes.
A mantel clock is a good entry point for beginners due to its manageable size and the many different styles and designs. In North America, popular examples come from manufacturers such as Seth Thomas, Ingraham, New Haven, Gilbert, and Pequegnat.
Wall Clocks are designed to hang on walls, ranging from simple schoolhouse styles to ornate regulator clocks. These clocks are ideal for those with limited floor space and looking for a functional piece. Look for clocks that are complete, with no missing parts, and inspect hands, glass, and the movement for any problems.
Grandfather Clocks otherwise known as Longcase Clocks, Tall Case Clocks, or Hall Clocks are tall, freestanding clocks often over six feet tall, with pendulums, often featuring intricate mechanisms and chimes. These clocks are statement pieces suitable for those with ample space.
Maintenance can be more demanding, and many of these clocks especially from the 1980s and 1990s have movements that are near the end of or at the end of their service life. A gently used tall case clock can provide many more years of service. While these clocks are undeniably charming, their sound might be a bit too loud for some individuals.
Cuckoo Clocks are typically from Germany, these whimsical clocks are known for their animated cuckoo bird and decorative carvings. These clocks are great for a touch of old country charm and fun, often appealing to families. All inexpensive ones require winding once per day and the cuckoo sound can be annoying for some. Look for an eight-day model instead.
Cuckoo clock
Ogee Clocks are classic 19th-century weight-driven clocks with a simple yet elegant design. They are an affordable entry into antique clocks and often come with a rich history. Ensure the glass and reverse-painted artwork are intact, as these are defining features. Shelf space is required as these clocks are not meant to be hung.
Most are 30-hour clocks that require winding once per day which some might regard as an annoyance if the intent is to have them running daily. Eight-day clocks are preferable since they require winding once per week. For a shelf clock, they are quite large and space could be a factor to consider.
Shelf Clocks are a broader category encompassing small to medium-sized clocks that fit on shelves or desks. They are practical and versatile, with a range of styles to suit different tastes.
Fancy clocks with intricate visible designs display beautifully and can serve purely decorative purposes.
HAC mantel clock
Anniversary Clocks feature mechanisms that can run a year or more, have glass domes, and feature a rotating pendulum. They make a striking display and serve as fascinating conversation pieces. Historically, they were often presented as wedding gifts.
Novelty Clocks are clocks with unique designs, animations, or themes. They add personality and character to any room often sparking conversations. They can be as small as an alarm clock and can be placed just about anywhere in a room.
Buying your first clock is a rewarding experience that combines history, craftsmanship, and personal taste. By considering factors such as your budget, the clock’s condition, provenance, and placement, you can make an informed decision and choose a piece that brings lasting enjoyment.
Remember to select a clock that resonates with you personally, as it will become a cherished part of your space. With thoughtful planning and care, your first clock can be the start of a lifelong appreciation for the art and beauty of horology.
It’s been about two years since I last worked on a Mauthe time and strike movement. While Mauthe clocks are fairly common, my attention has been directed toward other types of clocks and clock projects in recent years.
This is the first installment of a two-part series, offering initial impressions and background history of the clock, as well as outlining the plan for servicing the movement and addressing minor issues with the case.
This isn’t just any Mauthe box clock—it carries a significant family history. It was given to my father-in-law in the 1970s by his secretary, whose father originally owned it. I can still vividly recall the warm, familiar sound of its two-toned strike echoing through my in-laws’ home on Rupert Street in Amherst, Nova Scotia. Those gentle tones bring back fond memories of family gatherings at special times of the year. The house was eventually sold in 1996.
The house on Rupert; the original owners were the Tennant family
Both the clock movement and the case are in surprisingly good condition, especially considering my father-in-law’s knack for being a bit rough around the edges and heavy-handed regarding repairs. His endearing awkwardness somehow spared this clock, which has stood the test of time remarkably well. It’s clear he went the extra mile with this clock because, upon disassembling the movement, I discovered evidence of servicing by a professional clock specialist.
German “box” clock by Mauthe
Although the clock was carefully stored it has not run in over 25 years. It is long overdue for a cleaning.
According to several online databases, the design of the trademark stamp suggests it was used by Mauthe after 1946. This places the clock’s production in the late 1940s to early 1950s.
Condition of the movement
To remove the movement from its case, start by unhooking the pendulum. Next, loosen the two screws securing the seatboard. Once these screws are released, the movement can slide out from the front. Detach the seatboard by unscrewing the two thumbscrews located on underneath and either side of the seatboard. Additionally, a unique pair of angled pieces that also hold the movement in place, fastened with wood screws, must also be removed. This setup may seem a bit excessive, but it provides a secure and stable mounting for the movement.
After removing the seatboard, I examined the movement and was struck by how clean it remained despite years in storage. The pivots were completely dry, so I applied a small amount of oil to test its functionality—and it ran smoothly. A little oil is no substitute for a cleaning and I proceeded with disassembling the movement by first releasing the power of the mainsprings.
I’ll conclude here for now. Join me in my next article as I disassemble the movement, discuss what needs attention, and explore some of the issues and challenges associated with it as well as addressing minor issues with the clock case.
Regularly dusting a clock was once a key part of the cleaning routine in days gone by. The clock was an important feature in the home, and maintaining its appearance was a significant part of regular housekeeping. It often held a place of pride in the household.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator
While modern homes may generate less dust than those of the past, occasional dusting is still necessary to keep items clean.
Caring for your clock’s case is an essential part of maintaining its overall condition and preserving its appearance. Caring for your clock’s case is crucial because it helps maintain its visual appeal. The case protects the movement from dust, dirt, moisture, and physical damage. Over time, neglecting the case can lead to fading, cracking, or warping of the wood, which may affect the clock’s value. Regular cleaning, polishing, and protection from environmental factors such as sunlight and humidity can extend the life of the clock and preserve its historical and collectible value.
Your Cleaning Routine
Regular dusting is crucial, and using a soft, dry microfiber cloth is recommended to gently remove dust. Dust buildup can damage finishes over time, so it makes sense to make cleaning a regular practice.
Avoid using paper towels or rough cloths that may scratch the surface. Harsh chemicals and abrasive cleaners should also be avoided, as they can damage the finish. If necessary, a mild soap solution with water can be used, but always test it in an inconspicuous area first.
For wooden clock cases, use a high-quality furniture polish suitable for the wood type, such as wax or cream polish. Minwax Paste Finishing Wax works very well and ensures a durable long-lasting finish. Apply a small amount to a soft cloth and always rub in the direction of the grain. Be cautious not to over-polish, as it can build up residue.
If your clock has a glass door or side panels, clean it with a glass cleaner or a vinegar-water solution, spraying it on a soft cloth to avoid streaks, scratches, or spillover. Care should be taken not to get cleaner on the wood.
Additionally, protect the clock’s finish by keeping it out of direct sunlight, as prolonged exposure can cause fading or cracking. Avoid placing it near heat sources such as a register or heating vent or in overly humid areas.
Periodic servicing is important to ensure the clock case retains its original beauty, especially if the clock is older or of significant value. Over time, even with careful use, wood can become dry or scratched, finishes may dull, and joints may weaken. Regular cleaning, conditioning, and minor repairs can prevent these issues and help the case maintain its luster.
Call in a Professional, Perhaps
For higher-value or antique clocks, professional restoration might be necessary. This could involve refinishing the case, repairing cracks or veneer, and restoring or replacing any intricate details that might have worn over time. Professional restorers have the expertise and access to the right materials to ensure that the case is repaired or restored while maintaining its historical integrity. Proper restoration not only enhances the appearance but can also increase the clock’s market value by preserving its authenticity.
All the Metal Parts
When it comes to caring for metal parts in clocks, there are two main schools of thought.
One approach involves minimizing contact with oils and polishes, particularly on brass components. The idea behind this method is that applying oils or polishes can attract dust and grime, which could cause damage or wear over time. Additionally, frequent polishing of brass parts might cause the metal to lose its patina, which many collectors see as an important part of the clock’s character. In this approach, cleaning is done only when absolutely necessary, with a focus on preserving the natural finish of the metal.
The other school of thought advocates for the regular application of oils and polishes. A light coat of oil or polish helps protect metal parts, such as brass, from tarnishing and corrosion. This approach maintains the clock’s aesthetic appeal by preventing oxidation and keeping the metal parts shiny. Some prefer to polish brass regularly to maintain its lustrous appearance and use specialized oils to lubricate moving parts, ensuring smooth operation and reducing friction within the mechanism.
It’s Your Decision
Proper care and maintenance of your clock case are essential for preserving its beauty and functionality. Regular dusting, gentle cleaning, and using the right products can prevent damage to both the wood and metal components. Whether you prefer a more natural approach to preserving the patina or choose to regularly polish the wood and the metal parts, it’s important to prioritize the long-term health of your clock.
By following these simple guidelines, you can ensure that your clock continues to be a prized feature in your home for years to come, maintaining its historical charm and operational integrity.
As we enter a new year it is time to look back on the adventures and milestones I’ve experienced in the world of antique and vintage clock collecting and repair in the past year. 2024 has been one of discovery, growth, and deepening appreciation for the art of horology.
Over the past year, I have been shifting the focus of my collection. While I have acquired clocks from various countries, my interest has increasingly centered on Canadian clocks and those with a Canadian connection. This focus is evident in my acquisitions of the following clocks this year.
Adding to the Collection
My collection of Arthur Pequegnat clocks grew significantly this year with the addition of some standout pieces.
Arthur Pequegnat Hamilton Tall
The Dandyand Hamilton Tallmodels were particular highlights, each offering unique insights into the craftsmanship and history of the Pequegnat Clock Company.
Arthur Pequegnat Dandy
I also came across a rare find — a 30-hour Ogee clock by the Canada Clock Co., a true testament to Canadian clockmaking heritage. An interesting feature of this clock is the faux grain finish on the wood case, which was evidently a cost-saving measure by the company to make their prices competitive with American manufacturers at the time.
Canada Clock Co. Ogee
One of my most memorable acquisitions was an Arthur Pequegnat Simcoeclock (not pictured), purchased in 2018 from a shop in Victoria, British Columbia, for close to $200. This year, I added the Jewelmodel to my collection after spotting it on a high shelf at a local antique shop. Its price was surprisingly modest, coming in at less than a quarter the cost of the Simcoe making the find all the more satisfying. The addition of legs and side handles distinguishes it from the Simcoe.
Arthur Pequegnat Jewel
My most interesting acquisition was not a Canadian clock but a German-made Kienzle wall clock, which was given to me by a gentleman in Ontario (Canada).
Kienzle time and strike wall clock
The clock had been passed down from his grandfather, and the seller hoped to find someone who would truly appreciate it. He contacted me for advice and asked about its value. I offered some insights and mentioned that if he was unable to sell it, I would be happy to take it off his hands. Honestly, I never expected to hear back from him after that.
Several months later, he reached out to tell me that he would be gifting it to me. We arranged a hand-off in a small village in Quebec, and it has since become part of my collection. It is a handsome clock with a resonant two-tone strike that is one of the most “complete” clocks in my collection (for more on this clock go here).
Repairing and Restoring
In 2024, I spent less time repairing and servicing clock movements, instead focusing on my blog, researching clocks and clock companies and their histories, and maintaining my collection.
On the repair front, I tackled several challenging yet rewarding projects, including a Seth Thomas Type 89 time and strike and a HAC/HAU time and strike movement. These were standard servicing tasks that presented minimal issues.
Generally, my servicing philosophy is to avoid replacing original components as much as possible but I always test and ensure they meet the clock’s functional requirements. This year reinforced my belief that preserving original parts is vital to maintaining a clock’s authenticity.
HAC (Hamburg American Clock Co.) movement with plate removed
Among the repairs waiting their turn is the Danby model by Arthur Pequegnat which has been placed on the back burner due to other priorities. With three other movements to finish first, the servicing of those clocks plus the Danby will be projects for later in 2025.
Mauthe wall clock
Another project I’ll be tackling in 2025 is a family clock. This past year, I received my father-in-law’s clock for repair. It was passed down to my wife’s brother and has been out of service for over 25 years. I plan to return it fully serviced, and I hope that this stately Mauthe wall clock will take a prominent place in my brother-in-law’s home as a sentimental reminder of my wife’s father.
Sharing the Passion
This year celebrates seven years of blogging about clock collecting, repairs, and restoration. My blog has become a platform to share knowledge and stories, blending my love of writing, photography, and horology. Though I took a break for the holiday season, I look forward to returning this year with fresh content and inspiration.
One of the goals of this blog is to introduce antique and vintage clocks to younger generations and inspire an appreciation for these remarkable mechanical devices from the past. In today’s modern age of a throw-away culture, how many items can you think of that still function flawlessly after more than a century? It is a short list indeed!
A Special Milestone
In 2025, I will celebrate the remarkable milestone of reaching 1 million views, and I’ll be publishing a special article to mark the occasion. This achievement highlights the significant impact and reach of my content, demonstrating that my blog has resonated with a broad audience and built a dedicated following over time. Reaching this level of engagement is a testament to the value and quality of the information I share, making it an incredibly rewarding accomplishment as a creator.
A Broader Perspective
My collecting journey has always been intertwined with a sense of history and nostalgia. Yet, I’ve also faced the reality that interest in antique clocks is waning among younger generations. While my children may not share my passion, I find joy in preserving my clocks for future collectors or enthusiasts who might rediscover their charm. I hope that a younger generation will emerge and find value in collecting these old treasures.
My tastes and collecting habits are evolving, and I am increasingly focusing on Canadian-made clocks or those with a significant Canadian connection. This year, I may sell some of my more common clocks, which will reduce my collection to a more manageable size while still preserving my collection of 15 Canadian-made clocks.
Looking Ahead
As the New Year is upon us, I’m excited about the possibilities. My trip to the UK in 2024 provided opportunities to explore horological treasures, visit museums, and reconnect with my British heritage. Whether acquiring new clocks or deepening my understanding of their history, I’m eager to see where future journeys take me.
To all fellow enthusiasts and readers of my blog: thank you for your support and shared passion for these timeless pieces of history. Here’s to another year of celebrating the art and craft of clocks!
Every clock owner wants to know what their clock is worth, and every seller hopes to sell for as much as possible. This guide offers a framework to evaluate antique and vintage clocks for both buyers and sellers, starting with insights into the unpredictable clock market.
The Unpredictable Clock Market
Determining the value of a clock is often challenging. The market fluctuates, and what you think your clock is worth today may not align with expert opinions or what buyers are willing to pay. Trends come and go, and the value of clocks can drop or rise unexpectedly.
For example, I once came across a mid-1990s Howard Miller grandfather clock listed on Facebook Marketplace for $3,000. After several days with minimal interest, the seller gradually lowered the price to $1,500, but it still did not sell. In reality, it was only worth around $500 on a good day.
This shows how subjective personal value can be, and the reality is that modern clocks, like many Ridgeway or Howard Miller models, often do not hold their original value. What you believe holds significant value may not align with what potential buyers are willing to pay.
Scottish tall case clock
Even an appraised value is just an educated opinion, reflecting current market conditions, the clock’s condition, and its collectibility. As market trends shift, the value of a clock can change significantly.
Factors in Assessing Clock Value
Is It Original? Originality significantly impacts value. Clocks with replaced or missing parts tend to lose their appeal to collectors. Many “Vienna Regulators” found online, for example, are hybrids of mismatched cases and movements. In some instances, parts are missing altogether.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator
Clocks marketed as “complete and original” by sellers who admit they know little about clocks should be approached with extreme caution. Always verify the clock’s parts with an expert or a reputable auction house to ensure accuracy.
What Type or Style Is It? The style or type of clock affects value. While common American mantel clocks may be worth little due to their mass production, specific models like the E.N. Welch “Patti” line or Seth Thomas Sonora clocks command high prices.
Wall clocks, especially those from the 19th century made in limited quantities, generally hold a higher value than mantel clocks which were produced in the thousands.
Seth Thomas #2 wall clock
Grandfather clocks, also known as hall clocks, longcase, or tallcase clocks, can often be acquired for a fraction of their value, despite many that are 150+ years old. Tall clocks are bulky, requiring significant floor space. Many people don’t have the room or the inclination to accommodate such large items, especially in smaller or more modern living spaces.
A Label, Trademark, or Prominent Name adds Value An intact label, trademark, or known maker adds value. A clock with a visible maker’s mark, such as an E. Howard or an original Willard banjo clock, is often sought after due to their craftsmanship and brand recognition.
A label, trademark, or maker’s mark verifies the clock’s authenticity, confirming that it is an original piece from a recognized manufacturer. This eliminates doubts about whether the clock is a reproduction or a mix of parts, which increases its value to collectors.
Pequegnat Canadian Time clock label
A visible maker’s mark or label helps establish the clock’s provenance, providing important information about its origin, manufacturer, and production period. Clocks with clear histories, especially from reputable makers, are more desirable because they can be accurately placed within historical or stylistic contexts.
A clock’s history can boost its value. A story or historical significance attached to a clock, or a clock with a clear and documented background may attract more buyers and command a higher price.
Reproduction labels or unmarked movements raise red flags for serious collectors.
The Correct Period or a Reproduction? Period authenticity is key. Many reproduction clocks closely resemble originals from the early 1900s but have far less value. For example, Seth Thomas reissued its famous Regulator #2 in the 1970s, but collectors prefer the originals from the late 1800s, which have clearer distinguishing features.
Reproduction clocks are often made with modern manufacturing techniques and less expensive materials, resulting in a lower quality product compared to hand-crafted originals. Collectors and buyers appreciate the craftsmanship of original clocks, which were made with more attention to detail and durability.
Some sellers would pass off this 1970s Jauch clock as an antique
Original clocks from the early 1900s carry historical value due to their connection to a specific time period, reflecting the craftsmanship, design, and technology of that era. Reproduction clocks, even if they mimic the look of the originals, lack this historical significance, making them less valuable to collectors.
Novice collectors are often tempted by reproductions (particularly if the clock is passed off as original), and if they’re uncertain, they should consult a professional for guidance.
Age and Condition A clock’s condition is crucial to its value. Clocks with missing pieces, broken hands, or poorly repainted dials are worth much less, even if they are from reputable makers. Age alone does not guarantee value—certain styles or makers, despite being centuries old, may not be popular among collectors.
Some buyers are specifically looking for clocks in original, unrestored condition, even with signs of wear. Restoration can eliminate the clock’s patina, which is often considered part of its historical appeal.
A well-functioning clock is more appealing to buyers. Properly repairing the movement restores its functionality, often increasing its resale value, as people are naturally drawn to a working clock.
In some cases, restoring a clock too thoroughly—by polishing, repainting, or replacing parts—can strip away its historical character. Over-restored clocks may look “too new,” which can detract from their antique charm and value.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf fantop restored case
The cost of repairing or refinishing a clock may outweigh the potential increase in resale value. If the clock isn’t particularly rare or valuable, to begin with, investing heavily in restoration may not yield a return in the marketplace. Sellers often do not service their clocks, either because they lack the necessary skills or because the cost of repair doesn’t justify the potential profit.
Is the Clock Collectible? Desirability can be influenced by rarity and regional interest. For instance, Arthur Pequegnat clocks are highly sought after in Canada but may fetch lower prices outside the country. True Vienna Regulators from the early 19th century are another example of rare clocks that remain valuable, especially when they are original and authentic.
The Mechanism Type The complexity of a clock’s mechanism can impact its value. Clocks with a three-train mechanism (time, strike, and chime) tend to be more valuable than simpler two-train or one-train models.
Clocks with more complex mechanisms, such as those with three-train movements, demonstrate a higher level of craftsmanship. These mechanisms control multiple functions, like chiming, striking, and keeping time, requiring greater precision and skill in their design and assembly. As a result, clocks with such elaborate mechanisms are often considered superior and more desirable, elevating their market value.
More complex mechanisms, like three-weight Vienna Regulator Grande Sonnerie clocks, are generally rarer than their single- or two-train counterparts. The production of these complex movements required more skill and was often reserved for higher-end models or special commissions, making them less common and more sought after by collectors. Their scarcity in the market can drive up their value, especially when the clock is in good working condition with original parts.
Collectors often prioritize clocks with intricate mechanisms because they showcase the ingenuity and technological advancements of their time. The presence of a three-train mechanism, or a clock with additional complications like chiming or an alarm, indicates a higher level of mechanical achievement. These clocks are often seen as more valuable historical artifacts, and their complexity can make them the centerpiece of a collection.
On the flip side, clocks with more complex mechanisms can be harder and more expensive to repair or maintain, which may deter some buyers. A three-train movement has more moving parts that could potentially break down or require servicing, and specialized knowledge is often needed to repair them. However, collectors willing to invest in these repairs typically appreciate the value of the clock and understand that the effort is worth it.
Do Your Research and Meet the Seller In Person!
Before buying or selling a clock, check eBay listings, reputable auction houses, local buy-and-sell sites, antique shops, and online message boards. Prices can be volatile, and what may have sold for a high price years ago may be worth much less today. For example, some clocks that were once highly valued, are now relatively inexpensive due to oversupply.
Antique shops are potential places for a good buy
As a buyer, ask detailed questions and verify originality before making a purchase. Sellers should provide an honest and clear description of their clock, disclosing any replaced parts or modifications. Keep in mind that while the clock market may seem chaotic, high-end, sought-after clocks tend to retain their value over time.
Meeting the seller face to face is often the best approach. A personal meeting allows buyers to gauge the seller’s honesty and integrity, making them feel more secure in their purchase.
Seeing the clock in person allows the buyer to closely inspect its condition, functionality, and any potential issues that may not be apparent in photos. This firsthand assessment helps buyers make informed decisions about the clock’s value and condition. They can check for labels, trademarks, and other identifying features that may influence the clock’s value. Buyers can also evaluate the quality of craftsmanship and materials up close.
Face-to-face meetings provide a better opportunity for negotiation. Buyers can engage in real-time discussions, express their concerns, and potentially negotiate a fair price based on the clock’s condition and market value. In-person interactions often lead to more flexible negotiations than online communications.
Sellers who are passionate about their clocks can provide detailed information about the piece’s history, repairs, and provenance often enhancing the buying experience and adding value to the transaction.
Photos can be misleading, and details may be overlooked in written descriptions. Meeting the seller face to face reduces the risk of misrepresentation, as buyers can directly address any discrepancies they find during their inspection.
Meeting in person can eliminate the need for shipping, which can be costly and risky for fragile antique clocks. Buyers can transport the clock themselves, ensuring it arrives safely.
If you have any doubts or the answers you’re receiving from the seller seem uncertain, always—without exception—be prepared to walk away.
Now is a good time to buy or sell
Now is an excellent time to buy, as many bargains can be found with careful research. For sellers, patience and realistic expectations are key. Understanding the market, setting fair prices, and presenting items attractively will increase your chances of success. Whether buying or selling, doing your homework is essential to navigating this unpredictable landscape.
I often wonder about the stories behind my clocks.
Antique and vintage clocks evoke a time when life seemed simpler, a stark contrast to today’s frenetic pace. Old clocks serve as living memories, cherished relics of people and places that are long gone but not forgotten.
Ideally, they should be passed down through generations. Yet, when I look at online marketplaces, it’s clear that many clocks no longer stay within their original families. I can’t help but wonder—has sentimentality lost its place in today’s world?
Out of the 35 clocks displayed throughout our home (a small part of my collection), I wish I knew the stories behind every single one of them. If only they could talk! What tales they would share.
Still, two of my clocks come with stories that I hold dear to my heart.
Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock
One of my clocks survived the 1917 Halifax Explosion. It is a Junghans Crispi wall clock. I know this because the previous owner had kept it in their family for over 100 years. It wasn’t in the condition you see it in today, though. It came to me as a box of parts, and I imagine they decided it was time to let it go after holding onto it for so long. They hoped that whoever bought it would bring it back to its former glory.
After restoring the clock, I contacted the former owner to show them what I’d done, sending them a photo of the clock in its restored state. I never heard back and I assume they experienced a bit of seller’s remorse.
However, I often look at the clock and try to imagine that fateful day, December 6, 1917, when it fell from the wall in a modest North Halifax home and broke into dozens of pieces.
Ingraham Huron shelf clock
Another story belongs to my Ingraham Huron shelf clock (circa 1878). It was a rare find considering it was made between 1878 and 1880. Some might call the style a balloon clock. It came from a small village outside Bridgewater, Nova Scotia. My wife and I made a day of the trip, enjoying lunch and some shopping after picking up the clock from an elderly couple who were in the process of separating.
The clock’s story unfolded when we met the couple selling it. The gentleman, in his early seventies, recalled seeing the clock in his grandmother’s home when he was a child. After some conversation, we learned that the couple was separating amicably, with the wife planning to move into an apartment nearby. “We need to get rid of a lot of stuff,” he told us. It was a bittersweet moment, knowing they were parting with something tied to childhood memories. My wife and I left with the clock, reflecting on how our connection to objects, even sentimental ones, can change over time.
It seems sentimentality can have a price. People grow tired of the things they once cherished or feel the need to unburden themselves of objects tied to past relationships and memories. Nostalgia can bring comfort, but for some, it may not be enough to hold onto the past.
I often wonder what will happen to my clocks when I’m gone. My wife knows that I’m not emotionally attached to all of them. Some were simply acquisitions that served to give me projects that helped me grow as a hobbyist. Yet, there are several clocks that I hope my children will keep—the ones I’ve spent countless hours restoring, the ones with stories and history.
Among them are my twelve Arthur Pequegnat Canadian-made clocks, two Vienna regulators, a Seth Thomas Empire-style clock, a Sessions Beveled No. 2, my Ingraham Huron, and my Junghans Crispi wall clock.
These clocks represent a blend of history, personal connection, and the passion I’ve poured into them. I think my kids will appreciate that.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is a special time when I respond to readers’ letters and comments about clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. When the comments and questions are especially complex, I consult with fellow clock enthusiasts within my circle to ensure I offer the most precise and helpful answers possible.
RK writes:
I am working on an almost identical clock movement as the one shown on your website above. It was made by Frederick Mauthe. I have restored the movement, inserted many bushings, etc., and during testing have realized that the movement is gaining an hour a day. I don’t think the pendulum is original and I suppose I am on a quest for a replacement.
Mauthe wall clock
Here is the case. The finial has been re-glued and altered at the top, and that is another story. Here is the current pendulum: it weighs 0.139 kilos; the distance from the top hook to the bottom of nut under the pendulum is 220 mm. The diameter of the bob 100 mm. I believe this is too light and too short, but there is no more room in the case.
Mauthe movement showing 2 critical numbers
Do you know what the correct dimensions are for the original pendulum? (Weight and length)
This movement is now working so well and it would be a pity not to be to use it just because I cannot find a replacement pendulum.
Front of Mauthe movement
Thanks for your time.
RK
My reply:
Hi and thanks for your email, RK. On the back of the movement, on the lower left of the last photo, are two numbers. 34 refers to the measurement in centimeters from the top of the suspension spring post to the bottom of the pendulum regulating nut. The second number refers to the beats per minute. Measure the pendulum you have and compare it to the first number.
Regarding the pendulum’s bob weight, I won’t have access to the clock until mid-September. However, I can get the measurements you need at that time if they’re still required.
A museum is an institution dedicated to the display of objects of lasting interest and historical value. While museums can showcase a wide variety of items, The Canadian Clock Museum, located in Deep River, Ontario, (Canada) focuses specifically on Canadian clocks and clocks with a Canadian connection.
I first visited the museum in 2013, and this year marked my eighth visit. Each visit has offered a new learning experience, and this one was no different.
Despite its modest size, the museum offers a relaxing experience, with a well-organized flow that guides visitors through displays of various manufacturers and themes.
The informational cards beside each clock provide just enough detail to captivate visitors without overwhelming them. Many of the clocks have fascinating stories, which Curator Allan Symons is more than happy to share, although, sadly, some histories have been lost over time as clocks change hands.
Proof I was there!
A charming feature is the check-in and check-out punch clock cards, done on a Blick Time Recorder clock, that every guest gets to experience to record their visit. Blick Time Recorders was a London, England-based company but they had a Canadian branch that sold them for factories in Ontario, and elsewhere. The reproduction card was created by a summer student about fifteen years ago from card design options in the Blick Canadian catalog.
Blick Time Recorder
The collection primarily features mechanical clocks, but the museum also boasts the most extensive collection of Snider electric and battery-operated wall and shelf clocks (in the world?), manufactured in Toronto. Harry Snider’s two business names in Toronto covered the periods 1950-1957 and 1957-1976. His pink and turquoise wall and TV lamp clock designs date to the 1950s (when those colours were popular for fridges, stoves, and bathtubs in homes).
A fraction of the Snider clocks on display
During my visit, a couple arrived at the museum to donate a Snider starburst wall clock with a brass and walnut finish. Curator Symons was grateful for the donation and gave them a personal tour of the museum as a gesture of appreciation.
Although many items are acquired through auction sites and online sales, the museum also receives some pieces as gifts. For items that align with the museum’s theme, shipping costs are covered.
Extensive collection of research material
Though some exhibits remain unchanged over the years, Curator Allan Symons continues to expand and refresh the collection with new and intriguing clocks of all kinds.
So, what’s new this year?
Notably, in the past two years, the museum has acquired a large tall case clock, a wall clock with special historical significance, and IBM time recorder punch clock in addition to other interesting pieces.
Martin Cheney, Montreal Clockmaker
The clock that captured my attention most was a time-only, weight-driven tavern-style wall clock made by Martin Cheney in the 1820s.
Martin Cheney wall clock with “Montreal” printed on the dial
In 1809, Martin Cheney relocated to Montreal from Vermont, where he lived for about twenty-one years. In 1817, he partnered with J. A. Dwight, and together they operated under the name Cheney & Dwight at 104 St. Paul Street, Montreal. The business produced movements, cases, wall and tall case clocks, and banjo clocks. Their partnership lasted until 1830.
This remarkable piece was donated to the museum and stands as a testament to early Canadian craftsmanship. In my view, no serious Canadian clock collection would be complete without a Cheney clock.
IBM Time Recorder
Another notable and unusual piece is the IBM time recorder, which was commonly used in factories and workplaces from the 1920s onward. The employees’ time recorder was made by IBM around 1930 in their Toronto factory. According to the donor, his late father acquired it when he retired from the General Electric factory in Peterborough, Ontario.
This departmental clock was designed to handle up to 100 employees, so large factories would typically have several of these clocks. It is a large and imposing piece, with a robust design that reflects its practical role and the industrial era in which it was used.
IBM time recorder used up until the 1960s
It immediately brought to mind my days as a part-time clerk in an Ottawa department store, where starting the workday was marked by the ritual of clocking in. In my case, it was an electric punch clock, unlike the mechanical one now on display at the museum.
IBM dial
Pequegnat Hall clock
Most Pequegnat clock enthusiasts do not realize that the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company of Kitchener, Ontario, sold kits containing the movement, hands, dial numerals, weights, chains, and pendulums, allowing customers to build custom-sized cases to fit them. And so it is, with a special Pequegnat tall case (hall) clock.
This tall and imposing hall clock case stands out as far more ornate than what you’d typically see on a Pequegnat clock. Its design evokes a strong love-it-or-hate-it reaction, but there’s no denying the intricate craftsmanship of the case.
The clock was donated in October 2023 by a woman in the Montreal area when she was preparing to relocate.
Pequegnat hall clock with an unusual feature
There is more to offer at the museum
For those with a casual interest in clocks, the museum offers a variety of intriguing displays, including an antique phonograph from the Victor Talking Machine Company of Camden, New Jersey, a clockmakers/watchmakers workbenchs, alarm clocks, several fascinating Tramp clocks, a choice of “fun in time” teaching clocks for children, clock radios, and a small collection of Girotti wall clocks (St. Catharines, Ontario) that were popular in the 1960s and ’70s.
The Girotti clocks are not my cup of tea, but they are an interesting interpretation of the 1970s modernistic sculptured style and provide a glimpse into the culture of the late 20th century.
Whether you are a clock enthusiast or just curious about the allure of any museum this one is well worth a visit. Returning visitors will always find something new and fascinating to enjoy. And if you can’t make it in person, Allan offers a virtual tour that will inspire a future visit.
Martin Cheney is not typically the first name that comes to mind when considering the impact of clockmakers on Canadian horology.
Martin Cheney, born in 1778, was part of a prominent American clock-making family. He was one of four sons of Benjamin Cheney (1725-1815) and Elizabeth Long Cheney, who hailed from East Hartford, Connecticut. Benjamin likely trained all his sons in clock-making. The oldest, Asahel, born in 1759, later moved to Vermont. Elisha, born in 1770 and passing in 1847, settled in Berlin, Connecticut.
Dial face, M. Cheney, Montreal
The youngest, Russell, eventually relocated to Putney, Vermont. Martin’s uncle, Timothy Cheney (1731-1795), was also a notable clock-maker in East Hartford, working closely with Benjamin.
By 1803, Martin had moved up the Connecticut River to Windsor, Vermont, where he advertised fine English watches, watch keys, chains, and seals for sale. The majority of the tall case clocks I’ve found online come from his shop in Windsor, Vermont. Based on my research, most of his clocks show a Boston influence.
In the early 1800s, political events in the United States prompted several families to migrate to the British colony of Lower Canada, now known as Canada. In 1809, Martin relocated to Montreal, where he lived for about twenty years. In 1817, he partnered with J. A. Dwight, and together they operated under the name Cheney & Dwight at 104 St. Paul Street, Montreal. The business produced movements, cases, wall and tall case clocks, and banjo clocks. Their partnership lasted until 1830.
In 1827, Martin advertised in a Burlington, Vermont newspaper seeking a journeyman clock-maker to join him in Montreal. Although Cheney continued to craft clocks into the 1830s, little is known about his life beyond that decade. He spent his remaining years in Montreal till his death in 1855 (unconfirmed).
Martin Cheney wall clock
Cheney clocks are highly sought after and command high prices at auction. Their exceptional craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail are evident in every piece.
Adjustable pendulum bob
Until August 2024, I had never seen a Cheney clock in person but, during a recent visit to TheCanadian Clock Museum, curator Allan Symons proudly introduced me to one of his most prized acquisitions: a Martin Cheney time-only weight-driven wall clock, crafted in Montreal, Canada in the 1820s.
I didn’t get a chance to examine the movement, but I’m assuming it’s a banjo-style similar to the one in the photo below.
Banjo style movement
Encountering a Martin Cheney clock in person was an experience that deepened my appreciation for the craftsmanship and historical significance of his work particularly during the time he spent in Canada.
The rarity and value of Cheney clocks, combined with their intricate details and the story they tell of early North American clock-making, make them treasures for any horology enthusiast.
While owning such a piece may be well out of reach, the opportunity to see one firsthand was an unforgettable reminder of the skill and character of early Canadian clockmaking.
In a previous article on servicing this clock, I mentioned the challenge I faced with the mainspring. With only minimal tools at my disposal and no spring winder, I was determined to find a solution and successfully service the mainspring.
This clock was manufactured by New Haven and boasts a classic design with a twelve-inch Roman Numeral dial and a distinctive short drop style.
The softwood case is veneered in Rosewood veneer accents. The clock’s case must have been quite elegant at one time, but now it is showing much wear and tear.
Given the condition of the case, I anticipated that the movement would be just as well-worn. It was in better condition than I thought.
New Haven 8-day time-only movement
Let me point out that the servicing is being done under less-than-ideal conditions. I am at our summer cottage with only the basic tools for clock repair, so I must either improvise or skip certain procedures.
No spring winder | no problem
The movement had already been restrained with a heavy copper wire.
A heavy copper wire contains the mainspring
First, partially reassemble the movement with only the main wheel and second wheels. Reattach the front plate and secure the movement with the 4 pillar nuts.
Attaching the second wheel allows the main wheel to be stabilized while the spring is wound using the ratchet.
Safety first
I strongly recommend wearing leather work gloves and eye protection. Handling mainsprings under tension can be hazardous, so prioritizing safety is crucial. Precautions are essential to protect yourself from potential injuries.
Next steps
The key is to hold onto the second wheel while winding the clock. Once fully wound the copper restraining wire can be removed. In the photo below the screwdriver is arresting the wheel while I take the photo.
Then, using a letdown tool, release the click by popping out the click spring from the rachet and allowing the mainspring to unwind. The main wheel with the relaxed spring can now be safely removed from the movement.
The letdown tool is on the right
Servicing involves carefully removing the main wheel from the spring, manually inspecting and cleaning the spring, re-oiling it, and reconnecting it with the main wheel.
The mainspring is removed from the main wheel for cleaning
Reassembly
After cleaning the main wheel and the spring, simply reverse the procedure. Reattach the click spring, join the main wheel and the mainspring, place them back in the movement along with the second wheel, wind the spring, and secure it again with the copper restraining wire. Once this is done, you can continue to reassemble the movement.
May not be suitable for all applications
This approach allows the main wheel to be cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner along with all the other movement parts.
While this method may not be suitable for all open mainspring designs, it might be the solution for you.
Servicing a mainspring without a spring winder isn’t ideal, it can still be done safely and effectively.
Servicing this movement is reminiscent of days gone by when Dad (or Mom) would gather tools from the shed to fix the family clock. The repair might not have been perfect, but the goal was always to keep the clock running reliably until the next time it needed attention.
My collection of wall clocks includes several schoolhouse models and I am continually impressed by their resilience despite their age.
While many of these clocks spent their lives in school rooms, some ended up in commercial establishments and offices, often neglected until they stopped working. I’ve seen clocks with bushing holes so enlarged it’s a miracle they still ran at all.
This particular clock, manufactured by New Haven, boasts a classic design with a twelve-inch Roman Numeral dial and a distinctive short drop style.
The softwood case is veneered in Rosewood veneer accents. The clock’s case must have been quite elegant at one time, but now it is showing much wear and tear.
Given the condition of the case, I anticipated that the movement would be just as well-worn.
Let me point out that the servicing is being done under less-than-ideal conditions. I am at our summer cottage with only the basic tools for clock repair, so I must either improvise or skip certain procedures.
Removing the movement
After removing the hour and minute hands, you will find that three screws hold the dial in place. Once these screws are removed, the next step is to take out two movement blocks that secure the movement. This is done by unscrewing the blocks (each held by two wood screws) and then pulling out the movement. Once out the blocks can be removed.
The movement is held by movement blocks
Disassembly and inspection
The first step is to contain the power of the mainspring. Since I did not have access to my standard equipment, I had to improvise. I would normally use a C-clamp to restrain the mainspring, but with none available, I used a stiff piece of copper wire and wrapped it around the mainspring. Not ideal but it works.
Safely restrained mainspring
The movement is in surprisingly good condition.
The top (front) plate is removed
Once the wheels are out it is time to visually inspect the components including the gear teeth, pivots, escape wheel pallets, the condition of the manispring, and lantern pinions.
The parts are laid out for inspection
Before placing the parts into the ultrasonic cleaner, I clean the pivot holes with toothpicks and wipe off any excess dirt and oil. Since I plan to reuse the ultrasonic cleaner several times, putting excessively dirty parts into the cleaning solution can shorten its lifespan.
Opinions vary on whether mainsprings should be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. I believe it’s a matter of judgment. If I am not planning to reuse the cleaning solution (mainspring oil can render the solution unusable) and can thoroughly dry the springs, I have had good results by placing them in the ultrasonic cleaner.
In this situation, I have opted not to clean the mainspring in a solution.
Next is the reassembly of the movement leaving out the main wheel and mainspring. Without tension on the wheels, this is a simple way of determining wear.
Wheels that move laterally suggest enlarged pivot holes. Lateral movement affects the meshing of the gears and with enough wear the gears do not mesh properly and the clock will stop.
Checking for lateral movement
In this movement, the third-wheel front plate shows the most wear. However, it is not worn enough to require a new bushing at this time. If I were in the clock repair business and this was a customer’s clock, I would definitely address the need for a new bushing. This is compounded by the fact that I do not have bushing tools with me.
The pivots exhibit no significant wear, as confirmed by the fingernail test, which revealed no ridges. If you feel any ridges, grooves, or irregularities, it indicates wear on the pivot. A smooth pivot suggests minimal or no wear. Although I had to use a portable power drill for cleaning/polishing, the cleaning process was satisfactory despite it not being the ideal method.
My main challenge is the mainspring. I’m currently working with minimal tools and would like to service the mainspring, but I don’t have a spring winder.
Mainspring and first wheel
I am determined to service the mainspring and will find a solution within the next day or so, reporting on the procedures as I go. In the meantime, this is as far as I can proceed with this movement.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
You must be logged in to post a comment.