New to clock repair? Here are some errors to avoid

Clock repair and restoration can be a rewarding yet delicate process, requiring both skill and patience. Whether you’re working on an antique clock or a vintage movement, there are several common pitfalls that can easily derail your progress if you’re not careful. From handling mainsprings to ensuring proper oiling, small mistakes can lead to bigger issues down the road.

In this article, we’ll explore some of the most frequent mistakes made during clock repair and share tips on how to avoid them, ensuring your repairs are both successful and long-lasting.

Mainsprings

When working with mainsprings, always be cautious about how they are stored and handled. If two mainsprings are placed on top of each other, they may mate together in a way that makes it nearly impossible to separate them without damaging the springs. To avoid this, always position them so that they wind in opposite directions. This ensures they cannot interlock and will be easy to handle separately when the time comes.

Orientation of the Count Wheel

The count wheel plays a critical role in regulating the striking sequence of a clock. Different movements may have count wheels that rotate in opposite directions, so it’s essential to remember or note the orientation of the count wheel when removing it. If you fail to mark or track which way it goes, you may end up installing it incorrectly, which can result in malfunctioning strikes. Always take care to note the direction of rotation when removing any component like this.

Broken pressure washer on the count wheel

Helper Springs

Helper Springs may look like an add-on but are part of the original manufacturing process. Novices are tempted to leave them out when servicing a clock reasoning that they were added later during a repair.

Helper springs are vital for the correct functioning of certain levers and gears in a clock’s movement. If these springs are not properly attached, the levers may fail to operate as they should, and the springs can even interfere with other components, preventing them from working as intended. Make note of the orientation of the helper springs during disassembly and always check that all helper springs are in place and attached securely before reassembling the movement.

Take Special Care with Pivots

Patience is key when working on clock movements. If pivots are difficult to fit or the plates don’t seem to align correctly, it’s tempting to apply more force. However, applying too much pressure can bend or damage the pivots, which may be difficult to fix without professional tools or techniques. Instead of forcing components, carefully assess the situation, ensure everything is aligned, and use minimal force to avoid damaging the pivots.

An especially designed pivot locator can be your best friend.

Think twice before concluding a part is defective

It’s easy to jump to conclusions when diagnosing problems with a clock movement. You might assume that a part is defective or not functioning properly, but this is often not the case. Before replacing any parts, make sure you have thoroughly inspected the movement and confirmed that the part is indeed damaged or worn. Assumptions can lead to unnecessary replacements, costing both time and money. Always verify before proceeding.

Taking photos is a best practice

Taking pictures during disassembly is a common practice, but there’s a risk in doing this too early. If you take pictures before thoroughly understanding how the clock is put together, the images can become a source of confusion later on. You may forget specific orientations, parts, or connections, leading to problems when reassembling the movement. Instead, take the time to carefully observe and document each part’s position as you disassemble the clock. This will help ensure a smoother reassembly process.

Stop and Think Before Cleaning a Dial

Many a dial has been ruined by a repairer’s eagerness to clean it. If the dial needs cleaning, consider using a gentle hand-cleaning method (soap, water and a soft cloth will do) to avoid any damage like the damage to a UM Muller clock dial below.

Dials, especially antique ones, are delicate and can easily be damaged by the high-frequency vibrations in an ultrasonic cleaner. The cleaner may strip paint, damage decals, or even warp the dial if it’s not carefully handled. Always remove the dial before placing any components in the ultrasonic cleaner.

Proceed in a Safe Manner

When disassembling a clock movement, always ensure the mainsprings are securely restrained before you separate the plates.

_{Clamps for mainsprings ensure safety when working on movements}

If the plates are removed without securing the mainsprings, they could unwind suddenly, potentially causing damage or injury. Use a mainspring winder, clamps, or similar tools to restrain the springs before beginning the disassembly process to avoid any accidents.

When using a spring winder, it’s important to wear thick leather gloves and eye protection to safeguard yourself from potential surprises if a spring fails. These precautions help minimize the risk of injury from sudden, high-pressure releases.

Resist the urge to bend things

During repairs, it’s easy to inadvertently bend parts while trying to make them fit or forcing them into place. Parts of the striking mechanism, especially on the striking levers, are particularly prone to bending. Once bent, they can be difficult to straighten and may not work correctly afterward. Always handle parts with care, and if something does not fit easily, take the time to inspect the alignment or find the correct adjustment method rather than forcing it into place.

Over-oiling is Never a Good Idea

As a person I knew once said; “if a little is good, a lot is better”. It’s tempting to apply generous amounts of oil when servicing a clock, but over-oiling can lead to a number of issues.

Excess oil can attract dust and dirt, which will gunk up the movement and cause it to run less smoothly. It can also seep into areas where it shouldn’t be, like on the dial or outside of the movement, leaving unsightly stains. Always use an approved clock oil sparingly, and only in the areas where it’s needed. A little goes a long way, and it’s better to apply no more oil than necessary rather than risk over-oiling the movement.

To Summarize

Clock repair requires not only skill but also a cautious approach to avoid common mistakes that can lead to damage or injury. By taking the necessary precautions—such as properly handling mainsprings, ensuring parts are correctly installed, and using minimal force—you can prevent costly errors and ensure a successful repair. Patience and attention to detail, will make all the difference in restoring a clock to its full functionality, allowing it to run smoothly for years to come.

Suggestions and tips for novices? Join the conversation.

December 10, 2024

Understanding Clock Pivot Wear and Bushing: Part I of Two-Part Series

Is your mechanical clock experiencing issues such as intermittent stopping or simply not running at all? This might be due to several issues with the movement, one of which could be pivot wear.

This is a two-part series. In Part I, I will explain why it is necessary to bush a clock movement, and in Part II, I will describe my method for bushing.

What are pivots?

Pivots are the ends of the axles, known as “arbours” in horology, that rotate in small holes drilled into the clock plates as the clock runs. They are the turned-down ends of the arbour. These, along with the holes they rotate in, can wear down over time causing enlarged holes that will contribute to poor running or stopping. The pivot hole must be perfectly round, and the pivots need a mirror-like polish to minimize friction within the train of gears. To protect the surfaces and reduce friction, approved clock oil acts as a barrier between the pivot and the pivot hole.

Worn pivots or pivot holes can cause the wheel to drift away from the pinion, eventually stopping the clock as the gears fail to mesh properly. Clocks in need of bushings may run erratically or stop altogether.

Worn Pivot hole — _{A very worn pivot hole}

Oiling a dirty or worn movement

If a clock movement isn’t routinely serviced (cleaned and oiled), the plates of the movement will experience wear at the pivot points. Applying new oil over old oil can free abrasive dirt and provide a temporary solution but accelerate wear on the steel pivot and brass bushing holes because the contaminated oil acts like a grinding paste.

Worn pivots are often found in clocks repeatedly oiled without proper cleaning. Proper servicing requires disassembling the movement, cleaning the parts, addressing wear issues, reassembling, and testing.

Punch marks

From time to time, there is evidence of punch marks located around the pivot hole which is an attempt to close worn pivot holes. While a common practice in the past, this is no longer considered an acceptable repair practice.

Bent pivot — _{A pivot} _{– in this photo, the pivot is slightly bent}

Pivots need periodic cleaning and polishing to turn freely in the clock movement plate hole. Worn pivot holes are easy to identify as they appear oval-shaped rather than round.

Close-up of bushing wear — _{Bushing wear – the left portion of the hole is elongated}

What is bushing?

“Bushing” is the process of replacing worn brass around the pivot so that the hole is round again. A new hole is drilled into the plate, and a new, appropriately sized bushing is pressed into place using a bushing machine like the Bergeon Bushing Machine.

Some clockmakers prefer to hand-bush using reamers and smoothing broaches, producing satisfactory results, though a machine simplifies the task and is more accurate.

Severely worn steel pivots must be replaced with new ones, a process called re-pivoting. This involves using a watch or clock lathe to drill into the end of the wheel arbor to install a new pivot made from pivot wire.

Minor wear is expected over a clock’s life and can be managed with careful filing, polishing, and burnishing.

In summary, bushing is an integral part of movement servicing. Well-maintained clocks may show minimal wear and may not require new bushings, while others, due to neglect or improper servicing, may require many bushings.

Proper pivot and bushing work can extend a clock movement’s lifespan, ensuring reliable operation for years.

In Part II of this two-part series, I will describe my method for bushing a clock movement

June 4, 2024

Oiling your mechanical clock – a quick guide

Like a car engine, oil is the lifeblood of a clock. A correctly oiled clock will ensure a long life. Oil is the “lifeblood” of the car engine, the same applies to a clock. Just as a car engine relies on oil to keep its moving parts running smoothly and efficiently, a clock depends on oil to reduce friction and wear between its delicate components, such as gears, pivots, and arbors.

Lubrication is essential to the efficient running of any mechanical clock movement.

_{German time and strike clock movement}

The primary purpose of lubrication is to reduce wear. By creating a protective film between moving parts, it allows them to glide smoothly against each other, reducing resistance, improving efficiency, and minimizing energy loss.

Proper lubrication ensures smoother operation of components, which helps maintain accurate timekeeping by preventing irregular behaviour caused by increased friction. Additionally, it prolongs the lifespan of gears, pivots, and other moving parts by minimizing stress and wear.

A Quick Guide Including Some Dos and Don’ts

Avoid using spray lubricants like WD-40 on clocks, as they are unsuitable for precision mechanisms. WD-40 is a water displacement agent, not a true lubricant, and for that matter spraying any kind of lubricant can harm the clock, especially since some parts, such as wheel teeth and levers, must remain dry. Instead, use a specialized product like Keystone clock oil, specifically designed for clock mechanisms.

Clock pivot oil — _{Keystone clock pivot oil}

When applying oil, use a small amount—about the size of a pinhead—at each lubrication point. Tools such as a toothpick, small wire, needle dipper, or a clock oiler are ideal for precise application. Avoid over-oiling, as excess oil attracts dust, which can mix with the lubricant to form a paste that increases wear. Less is more which means less of something—a smaller amount of it—can at times be better than a large amount of it.

Focus on oiling the following areas:

The pivots of all wheels and the anchor or lever arbor on both front and back plates. In clockmaking, a pivot is the slender, polished tip of a wheel or arbor (the shaft that supports and drives the wheel) that rotates within a hole or bearing in the clock’s plate. Pivots are critical components in the mechanism as they allow wheels and arbors to spin smoothly and with minimal friction.

The crutch loop where it contacts the pendulum rod. The crutch loop is a part of the clock’s crutch, a thin, typically metal component connected to the escapement mechanism. The crutch transfers the motion from the escapement to the pendulum, keeping it swinging back and forth.

The escapement pallets. The escapement regulates the release of energy from the clock’s power source (mainspring or weights) to drive the gear train and maintain the pendulum’s motion.

recoil escapement — _{Escapement pallet}

The clicks. The clicks are small, rotating components in a clock’s winding mechanism. They play a vital role in ensuring that the clock’s mainspring or weight-driven system remains securely wound and does not unwind uncontrollably.

Pulley axles on weight-driven clocks. In weight-driven clocks, the pulley axles are the central shafts around which the pulleys rotate. These pulleys are part of the weight system that powers the clock.

When to Oil

Oiling a movement without first dissembling and cleaning is not recommended unless following a visual inspection the mechanism is free of black oil and the pivot holes are simply dry. Otherwise, the addition of new lubricant to old will mix with the dirt and grime to form a grinding paste which acts as an abrasive hastening pivot and pivot hole wear.

If the pivots are dry and show no residue, a small amount of oil can be applied without the need for disassembly.

During servicing, ensure the mainsprings are oiled with specialized mainspring oil. Apply the oil by drizzling it along the sides of the coiled spring, allowing it to wick between the coils, and wipe away any excess.

When oiling avoid dipping directly into the oil bottle; pour a small amount into an oil cup for easier application and to prevent contamination of the oil in the bottle.

Don’t leave the oil in a sunny window. UV rays will break down the oil and degrade its chemical structure over time. UV rays cause a process called photo-oxidation, where the oil reacts with light and oxygen. The degraded oil may become thicker, stickier, or form a residue, making it unsuitable for precise lubrication.

Cover the oil when not in use.

Routine Clock Inspection and Oiling

I inspect my clocks every 2-3 years and if the movement is free of dust and the pivot holes are dry I will apply fresh oil. If there is blackened oil around any pivot hole it is time to disassemble the movement, clean it, and apply new oil once reassembled.

Refer to this handy guide whenever your clock requires oiling to ensure proper maintenance and smooth operation. Regular attention to lubrication will help extend the life of your clock and keep it running efficiently for years to come.

August 19, 2022

Ansonia 30-hour parlour clock with a very worn movement

I acquired a number of clocks at auction this past winter (2022). All were antiques and all were in poor to fair condition but each one had potential. The auction notes simply said the movements were untested which can mean just about anything from a failed, irreparable movement to something that might have been serviced recently.

One of the four from the auction is an attractive clock with nice clean lines and from the look of the case, which is in decent shape, I would have expected a well-cared-for movement which turned out not to be the case when I removed it.

Those with a keen eye will notice something missing on the case – the topper or crown, but no worries, I have all the pieces, it is just a matter of gluing them back on.

I located a clock exactly like it online with a description that was no help at all other than the fact that it was made by the Ansonia Clock Co. However, the design of the base is identical to the “Alaska” found in the 1886 Ansonia catalog so, I would estimate the clock was made around that time, give or take a year or two.

Beyond a well-worn movement is that it has a 30-hour run time. A clock with a 30-hour movement is a tough sell based on my experiences these past 10 years. The alarm feature might attract some buyers or others might be simply looking for a decorative piece.

The movement

The one-day or 30-hour movement with alarm is made by the Ansonia Clock Co. The date June 13, 1882, is stamped on the front plate and refers to a patent date. Digging a little deeper I found Letters Patent No. 259,505 by W.D. Davies for a striking mechanism for clocks, registered in Brooklyn, New York January 31, 1882. Naturally, the clock could not have been made before that date.

The patent has a unique lifting lever, called a “turn back” (fig 4) that allows the hands to be turned back past the hours eliminating a second spindle that would otherwise be used by other manufacturers to allow the hands to be turned back.

The movement

It is a run-of-the-mill 30-hour movement. It is as small as one would expect for the run time. It has been worked on in the past as there are plenty of punch marks around the pivot holes, more so on the time side than the strike side which I will explain later.

I have spring retention clamps for all sizes of mainsprings but none that would fit this movement exactly. My smallest would not fit because there is a steel post in the way on the strike side but wire works just as well though I was able to get a clamp around the mainspring on the time side.

_{Strike side wheels, a wire holds the mainspring}

As it is a 30-hour movement the mainsprings are not as powerful as one would find in an 8-day clock although I always use care when working with mainsprings and wear thick work gloves.

Every pivot on the strike side looked like the one below. Dirty yes, but very little wear.

The time side was an entirely different matter.

Every pivot was in very poor condition, the worst is shown below.

_{The escape wheel pivot is too thin to be salvageable}

The worst pivots were both ends of the escape wheel and the third wheel. I was able to grind down most of the pivots, including the 3rd wheel since there was enough usable steel to carry the load through the train. Not so for the escape wheel.

_{New escape wheel pivot,} _{front plate}

It required re-pivoting.

_{The third wheel pivot on the time side,} _{this one is salvageable}

A sizable portion of the brass was chewed away on the escape wheel bushing, backplate. As wear accelerates over time, the clock would eventually “grind” to a halt.

As for the difference in wear on both sides, there are two possible reasons. Some folks do not like the sound of a striking clock in a home. The clock will still run with only the time side wound but the result is disproportionate wear. The second is that the patented design does not allow room for error during setup and perhaps it was too frustrating getting the strike side to run reliably.

Using a mini lathe I began with a centering bit and then with high-speed bits drilled holes in both ends of the escape wheel to a sufficient depth to anchor the pivot wire. I have a good supply of pivot wire and it was a matter of selecting the correct size, which in this case is 1.35mm wire.

The shot above shows the new escape wheel pivot supported in place and it will remain on the lathe in this position until the Permatex Threadlocker Red has cured (24 hours).

With that kind of wear, I am surprised the clock ran as well as it did although American clocks will typically continue to run despite being well worn, wear that would certainly stop a German or French clock.

Assembly and testing

_{The strike side wheels are left out for testing (beat timer is attached)}

Normally I would assemble the entire movement after completing the bushing work but since I installed two brand new pivots I realized that I would have to make minor escape wheel/pallet adjustments and having fewer wheels to deal with makes it less frustrating taking it apart again. A new suspension spring and leader also replaced the original one.

After 30 hours the movement continues to run strongly. I tested the movement a day or two more before installing the remaining wheels and levers.

Now to refresh the case.

May 7, 2022

Forestville mantel clock servicing – not fun when things go wrong! Part I

This post is about a mantel clock made by the Forestville Clock Company of Canada and some challenges servicing the movement.

In 2013 we were on a visit to the Thousand Islands and stopped at an antique store in Gananoque, Ontario. As my wife and I were strolling through the store and she noticed this mantel clock made by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto. Somewhat plain in style it seemed to be in great shape and it was exactly what we were looking for at the time.

History of the Blackforest Clock Co. and Forestville Clock Co. of Toronto

The Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto, Ontario was founded by Leopold and Sara Stossel in 1928. Both clock movements and complete clocks were imported from Germany and sold through department and jewelry stores across Canada. Their son Ed Stossel started working part-time with his parents’ company in the 1930s and later became a full-time employee in the late 1940s.

Some assembly work was carried out in their Wellington Street East factory. Initially imported mantel clock and grandfather clock movements were installed in cases made in Kitchener (home of the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company), but later the complete mantel clocks were imported from Germany. This arrangement was interrupted by the Second World War, which also led to a name change to the Forestville Clock Company in 1941. During the war years, the company imported its clock movements from England, the United States, and France. However, starting in the mid-1950s German factories again became the source of most Forestville clocks, with Mauthe being a major supplier.

The Forestville Clock Company was very successful during the middle decades of the twentieth century. Its grandfather clock cases and some of the wall clock cases were made in Canada. Ed Stossel retired in 1979 and unfortunately, the company survived just a few more years without his leadership.

Most Blackforest and Forestville mantel clocks still have their paper labels tacked inside the back door. This one does not.

My Forestville mantel clock

This clock movement and case are imported from Germany in the 1960s. There is a serial number on the backplate but no database exists online to date this clock. I am thinking that the movement is made by Mauthe

The pivots and bushings appear to be in good condition at first inspection. The clock keeps good time and there is a simple speed adjustment on the hairspring escapement to regulate the clock. This mantel clock is handsome, has good lines and reflects the style of the period.

Servicing the movement

After 7 years I have put off servicing the movement far too long. The rack and snail movement is relatively simple to work on with all the adjustment wheels, save the warning pin, on the outside. The mainspring barrels can be removed separately for servicing, common for movements of the 60s,

The hairspring escapement is something I will not attempt to clean. They can be finicky to work on and if the movement has been running beforehand, like this one, there is no pressing need to fool with it. It is well protected by a plastic shroud. Three screws unhook it from the movement.

While there is some wear on the time side I see at least 3 new bushings required, two on the front plate and one on the back.

When working with German and French movements one must always be very careful of the delicate pivots. Normally when I work on these clocks I am aware of how easy it is to bend or break a pivot and this clock was no exception. However, I had the movement apart and was reinstalling the gears to determine bushing wear and went about repositioning the center gear when I noticed its centre cannon front plate pivot had sheared off.

Arrow indicates center wheel with broken pivot (strike barrel removed)

I was not even aware that I was putting undue pressure on the pivot as I was carefully guiding each pivot in place with a pivot locator. However, either I applied too much pressure or it was ready to go because I broke a pivot. To give a sense of how small it is, here it is beside a pair of tweezers.

My experience with pivot repair is very limited. This is not like a broken or worn pivot on an American clock which is less challenging to repair because they are simply much bigger. This pivot is small, perhaps 0.5mm or so. Although I have bushings that size I do not have pivot wire that small and had to make do with a piece from my assortment of 0.85mm to 1.10mm wire.

Repairing a broken pivot, pivot wire is glued in place and left on the lathe overnight

I centred the arbour with a centring bit and then using a high-speed bit, drilled to about 4 or 5mm into the shaft, enough to anchor the pivot wire. Once the wire was inserted, I used high-strength Permatex Thread Locker Red to secure the wire which takes 24 hours to cure. The next day I installed a bushing in the front plate and put the gears back together to check the action of the new pivot. It is working okay. I was not convinced the repair would work but I will reserve judgment until the other 3 bushings on the time side are installed.

Can’t wait to find out if the repairs are successful? It’s a long wait but on November 25th, I will present the results.

October 19, 2020

Mainsprings

Orientation of the Count Wheel

Helper Springs

Take Special Care with Pivots

Think twice before concluding a part is defective

Taking photos is a best practice

Stop and Think Before Cleaning a Dial

Proceed in a Safe Manner

Resist the urge to bend things

Over-oiling is Never a Good Idea

To Summarize

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A Quick Guide Including Some Dos and Don’ts

When to Oil

Routine Clock Inspection and Oiling

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