Tag: pivot locator

New to clock repair? Here are some errors to avoid

Clock repair and restoration can be a rewarding yet delicate process, requiring both skill and patience. Whether you’re working on an antique clock or a vintage movement, there are several common pitfalls that can easily derail your progress if you’re not careful. From handling mainsprings to ensuring proper oiling, small mistakes can lead to bigger issues down the road.

In this article, we’ll explore some of the most frequent mistakes made during clock repair and share tips on how to avoid them, ensuring your repairs are both successful and long-lasting.

Mainsprings

When working with mainsprings, always be cautious about how they are stored and handled. If two mainsprings are placed on top of each other, they may mate together in a way that makes it nearly impossible to separate them without damaging the springs. To avoid this, always position them so that they wind in opposite directions. This ensures they cannot interlock and will be easy to handle separately when the time comes.

Orientation of the Count Wheel

The count wheel plays a critical role in regulating the striking sequence of a clock. Different movements may have count wheels that rotate in opposite directions, so it’s essential to remember or note the orientation of the count wheel when removing it. If you fail to mark or track which way it goes, you may end up installing it incorrectly, which can result in malfunctioning strikes. Always take care to note the direction of rotation when removing any component like this.

Broken pressure washer on the count wheel

Helper Springs

Helper Springs may look like an add-on but are part of the original manufacturing process. Novices are tempted to leave them out when servicing a clock reasoning that they were added later during a repair.

Helper springs are vital for the correct functioning of certain levers and gears in a clock’s movement. If these springs are not properly attached, the levers may fail to operate as they should, and the springs can even interfere with other components, preventing them from working as intended. Make note of the orientation of the helper springs during disassembly and always check that all helper springs are in place and attached securely before reassembling the movement.

Removing lever with helper spring

Take Special Care with Pivots

Patience is key when working on clock movements. If pivots are difficult to fit or the plates don’t seem to align correctly, it’s tempting to apply more force. However, applying too much pressure can bend or damage the pivots, which may be difficult to fix without professional tools or techniques. Instead of forcing components, carefully assess the situation, ensure everything is aligned, and use minimal force to avoid damaging the pivots.

An especially designed pivot locator can be your best friend.

Pivot locator

Think twice before concluding a part is defective

It’s easy to jump to conclusions when diagnosing problems with a clock movement. You might assume that a part is defective or not functioning properly, but this is often not the case. Before replacing any parts, make sure you have thoroughly inspected the movement and confirmed that the part is indeed damaged or worn. Assumptions can lead to unnecessary replacements, costing both time and money. Always verify before proceeding.

Taking photos is a best practice

Taking pictures during disassembly is a common practice, but there’s a risk in doing this too early. If you take pictures before thoroughly understanding how the clock is put together, the images can become a source of confusion later on. You may forget specific orientations, parts, or connections, leading to problems when reassembling the movement. Instead, take the time to carefully observe and document each part’s position as you disassemble the clock. This will help ensure a smoother reassembly process.

Stop and Think Before Cleaning a Dial

Many a dial has been ruined by a repairer’s eagerness to clean it. If the dial needs cleaning, consider using a gentle hand-cleaning method (soap, water and a soft cloth will do) to avoid any damage like the damage to a UM Muller clock dial below.

Dials, especially antique ones, are delicate and can easily be damaged by the high-frequency vibrations in an ultrasonic cleaner. The cleaner may strip paint, damage decals, or even warp the dial if it’s not carefully handled. Always remove the dial before placing any components in the ultrasonic cleaner.

Proceed in a Safe Manner

When disassembling a clock movement, always ensure the mainsprings are securely restrained before you separate the plates.

Clamps for mainsprings ensure safety when working on movements

If the plates are removed without securing the mainsprings, they could unwind suddenly, potentially causing damage or injury. Use a mainspring winder, clamps, or similar tools to restrain the springs before beginning the disassembly process to avoid any accidents.

When using a spring winder, it’s important to wear thick leather gloves and eye protection to safeguard yourself from potential surprises if a spring fails. These precautions help minimize the risk of injury from sudden, high-pressure releases.

Resist the urge to bend things

During repairs, it’s easy to inadvertently bend parts while trying to make them fit or forcing them into place. Parts of the striking mechanism, especially on the striking levers, are particularly prone to bending. Once bent, they can be difficult to straighten and may not work correctly afterward. Always handle parts with care, and if something does not fit easily, take the time to inspect the alignment or find the correct adjustment method rather than forcing it into place.

Over-oiling is Never a Good Idea

As a person I knew once said; “if a little is good, a lot is better”. It’s tempting to apply generous amounts of oil when servicing a clock, but over-oiling can lead to a number of issues.

Excess oil can attract dust and dirt, which will gunk up the movement and cause it to run less smoothly. It can also seep into areas where it shouldn’t be, like on the dial or outside of the movement, leaving unsightly stains. Always use an approved clock oil sparingly, and only in the areas where it’s needed. A little goes a long way, and it’s better to apply no more oil than necessary rather than risk over-oiling the movement.

To Summarize

Clock repair requires not only skill but also a cautious approach to avoid common mistakes that can lead to damage or injury. By taking the necessary precautions—such as properly handling mainsprings, ensuring parts are correctly installed, and using minimal force—you can prevent costly errors and ensure a successful repair. Patience and attention to detail, will make all the difference in restoring a clock to its full functionality, allowing it to run smoothly for years to come.

Suggestions and tips for novices? Join the conversation.

Five essential tools for antique and vintage clock repairers on a budget

Screw drivers, clock tools

Thinking about clock repair? Does the high cost of tools keep you from diving deeper into the hobby? Here are a few basic tools to get you started on clock repair.

These are also the five tools that I use almost every day in clock repair. The tools together are well under $100 and are essential when working on antique and vintage mechanical clocks. The most expensive is a letdown set which can cost anywhere from about $45 for a 4-piece set or approximately $65 for a 6-piece set. The other tools are less than $10 each.

So let’s begin.

The let-down set

The letdown set’s main use is to wind or release mainsprings in clock movements. It can be used on its own or in combination with a spring winder. It can also be used as a key gauge The 4-piece set includes a plastic handle and 3 chucks in sizes: #5-6, #7-8, and #10-12.

Broom handle let down tool

If you don’t mind sweeping the kitchen floor with a shorter broom handle you can make one of these and save even more money.

Letdown set
Four-piece letdown set

The safe release of powerful springs on any clock will save you from broken and bruised fingers, trust me!

The letdown key
The letdown key in action: letting mainsprings down on a German movement

The pivot locator

This tool is 8″ long with a knurled handle. The business end is the pivot locator which is used to gently push and pull pivots into their holes lining up wheel pivots between the plates when assembling clocks. It is long enough to go deep between the movement plates and is useful when working on either small or large movements.

Never try to muscle pivots into their bushing holes since it will lead to disastrous results such as broken and bent pivots. This tool is designed to allow you to carefully position pivots into their holes without the risk of damage to the wheels and gears. Every clockmaker I know has this tool.

Pivot locator

Flat nose smooth pliers

Below is an assortment of pliers, always good to have but the green handle one (center) has a spring action, a flat nose, and smooth jaws to prevent the marring of surfaces and is the first one you should buy. Smooth jaw pliers are also useful for releasing taper pins on clock minute hands. Others include needle-nose and wire clippers.

Assorted pliers
Assorted pliers but the flat nose type (centre) are the ones used the most

Box wrench

The photo below shows the small size of the box wrench among other tools. It is used for releasing nuts on movements. It grips better than pliers and spares the nuts from unnecessary abuse.

Screwdrivers and box wrench
Screwdrivers and box wrench; the blue handle slotted screwdriver is one of my top tools

Screwdriver

The blue handle screwdriver is of the slotted type. Before the days of the Robertson or Phillips screw, flat head or slotted screws were used in clock making, especially case construction. Begin with the small size and gradually acquire an assortment for all your clock needs.

Beyond the basic tools, it all depends on how far you want to pursue clock repair as a hobby or a vocation. Obviously, the costs begin to escalate as you acquire more complex tools but follow my advice; determine the need for the tool first before you put down your money, establish a budget, avoid buying everything at once, and become an expert on each tool you acquire and shop on the used market when possible.

Forestville mantel clock servicing – not fun when things go wrong! Part I

Forestville mantel clock
Forestville mantel clock

This post is about a mantel clock made by the Forestville Clock Company of Canada and some challenges servicing the movement.

In 2013 we were on a visit to the Thousand Islands and stopped at an antique store in Gananoque, Ontario. As my wife and I were strolling through the store and she noticed this mantel clock made by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto. Somewhat plain in style it seemed to be in great shape and it was exactly what we were looking for at the time.

History of the Blackforest Clock Co. and Forestville Clock Co. of Toronto

The Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto, Ontario was founded by Leopold and Sara Stossel in 1928.  Both clock movements and complete clocks were imported from Germany and sold through department and jewelry stores across Canada. Their son Ed Stossel started working part-time with his parents’ company in the 1930s and later became a full-time employee in the late 1940s.

Some assembly work was carried out in their Wellington Street East factory. Initially imported mantel clock and grandfather clock movements were installed in cases made in Kitchener (home of the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company), but later the complete mantel clocks were imported from Germany. This arrangement was interrupted by the Second World War, which also led to a name change to the Forestville Clock Company in 1941.  During the war years, the company imported its clock movements from England, the United States, and France. However, starting in the mid-1950s German factories again became the source of most Forestville clocks, with Mauthe being a major supplier.

The Forestville Clock Company was very successful during the middle decades of the twentieth century. Its grandfather clock cases and some of the wall clock cases were made in Canada. Ed Stossel retired in 1979 and unfortunately, the company survived just a few more years without his leadership.

Most Blackforest and Forestville mantel clocks still have their paper labels tacked inside the back door. This one does not.

My Forestville mantel clock

This clock movement and case are imported from Germany in the 1960s. There is a serial number on the backplate but no database exists online to date this clock. I am thinking that the  movement is made by Mauthe

The pivots and bushings appear to be in good condition at first inspection. The clock keeps good time and there is a simple speed adjustment on the hairspring escapement to regulate the clock. This mantel clock is handsome, has good lines and reflects the style of the period.

Servicing the movement

After 7 years I have put off servicing the movement far too long. The rack and snail movement is relatively simple to work on with all the adjustment wheels, save the warning pin, on the outside. The mainspring barrels can be removed separately for servicing, common for movements of the 60s,

The hairspring escapement is something I will not attempt to clean. They can be finicky to work on and if the movement has been running beforehand, like this one, there is no pressing need to fool with it. It is well protected by a plastic shroud. Three screws unhook it from the movement.

While there is some wear on the time side I see at least 3 new bushings required, two on the front plate and one on the back.

Hairspring escapement

When working with German and French movements one must always be very careful of the delicate pivots. Normally when I work on these clocks I am aware of how easy it is to bend or break a pivot and this clock was no exception. However, I had the movement apart and was reinstalling the gears to determine bushing wear and went about repositioning the center gear when I noticed its centre cannon front plate pivot had sheared off.

Arrow indicates center wheel with broken pivot (strike barrel removed)

I was not even aware that I was putting undue pressure on the pivot as I was carefully guiding each pivot in place with a pivot locator. However, either I applied too much pressure or it was ready to go because I broke a pivot. To give a sense of how small it is, here it is beside a pair of tweezers.

Broken pivot

My experience with pivot repair is very limited. This is not like a broken or worn pivot on an American clock which is less challenging to repair because they are simply much bigger. This pivot is small, perhaps 0.5mm or so. Although I have bushings that size I do not have pivot wire that small and had to make do with a piece from my assortment of 0.85mm to 1.10mm wire.

Repairing a broken pivot, pivot wire is glued in place and left on the lathe overnight

I centred the arbour with a centring bit and then using a high-speed bit, drilled to about 4 or 5mm into the shaft, enough to anchor the pivot wire. Once the wire was inserted, I used high-strength Permatex Thread Locker Red to secure the wire which takes 24 hours to cure. The next day I installed a bushing in the front plate and put the gears back together to check the action of the new pivot. It is working okay. I was not convinced the repair would work but I will reserve judgment until the other 3 bushings on the time side are installed.

Can’t wait to find out if the repairs are successful? It’s a long wait but on November 25th, I will present the results.

What is this clock thing for? #5 – the pivot locator

I want to talk about one of the most useful tools in clock repair, the pivot locator.

As an avid horology enthusiast for the past 9 years, I have been steadily building my knowledge of clock repair and with it a selection of essential clock tools.

Continue reading “What is this clock thing for? #5 – the pivot locator” →

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