Pequegnat Jewel Dial Restoration | A Case For Inpainting | Part II

In Part I of this series, I shared my approach to restoring a clock dial through a process called inpainting. Inpainting is but one solution to the problem of a ruined dial. To restore a clock dial by bringing it back to its original state involves carefully mixing paint to match the original tones, gradually building up layers to cover exposed metal, and remedying prior modifications that detracted from the dial’s appearance. I also highlighted the challenges of repainting, emphasizing the precision and patience required. Part I concluded with the groundwork laid for further work on the dial.

The clock is an Arthur Pequegnat Jewel, manufactured before 1917. The exact year of manufacture is uncertain, as Pequegnat did not date stamp their clocks. The approximate period of manufacture is confirmed by the maker’s stamp, which includes “Berlin,” the original name of what is now Kitchener. The city’s name was changed in 1917 due to sentiments arising from the Great War. So, the clock was made somewhere between 1904, the first year of production for Pequegnat clocks, and 1916.

Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe mantel clock
Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe

This model shares the exact case dimensions as the Simcoe but lacks certain decorative elements, making it one of the more affordable mantel clocks in their range.

The clock case features a piecrust dial bezel like the Simcoe, which was later replaced by a plain bezel in later years.

Arthur Pequegnat Jewel time and strike mantel clock with stripped dial
Pequegnat Jewel as found

In terms of the dial restoration, Part II will build on the inpainting progress by applying additional coats, enhancing details like the numerals and chapter ring, and bringing the dial closer to its original elegance.

More Work Required on the Dial

After the second coat, the bare metal is still visible, indicating that at least one or two more coats will be necessary.

I decided to continue a shade darker for the next layer by adding a touch more brown, and after more thought, darker still for the next coat or two. Even at this stage, I’m beginning to notice a pleasant transformation in the dial, shifting from its stark metallic appearance to a more pleasing shade of cream.

Writer presenting the clock dial after a 3rd coat

For the third coat, I aimed to soften the yellow and achieve a more aged look. It’s rough at the moment, but I’m confident it will come together once I start applying black paint to the numerals. The good news is that the bare metal is no longer visible.

repainted clock dial
The dial is done, now for the numerals

When placed against the case, the repainted dial is an improvement, but it’s clear that I’ll never fully replicate the original dial, even with my try at aging it.

The fourth coat has fully concealed the tin beneath, so, I’ll stop here. Next, I will focus on the numerals, using an artist’s detail brush and a Sharpie Ultra fine-point pen to carefully restore them.

Bezel test fit

Since the stripping process compromised the original numbers, I’ll use my Simcoe as a reference to reshape and refine their appearance. I’ll allow the paint to cure fully before moving on to the next step.

After cleaning the bezel, I noticed a distinct difference between the glass surround and the dial bezel. The glass surround has a brassy gold appearance, while the dial bezel exhibits a bronze-like tone. Although brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, with variations in composition potentially explaining this difference, I suspect that’s not the case here. Instead, I believe the glass surround was painted gold, as small flakes of paint came off while I was cleaning it with a toothpick. The bottom line? Best to leave it as is. Or match the outer bezel to the inner one? I’d have to think about that.

Here is the final result after a few touch-ups with black paint and some light polishing of the glass and both bezels.

Is it an improvement?

While it does not hold up to close scrutiny, there’s no denying it looks much better when viewed from a comfortable distance.

With the dial restored and the case cleaned, the final step will be servicing the time and strike movement to bring the clock to its full potential. While the improvement comes with its compromises, it’s satisfying to see the progress so far, and I’m eager to have this clock run smoothly after servicing.

Pequegnat Jewel Dial Restoration | A Case For Inpainting | Part I

As I continue to build my Pequegnat clock collection, I always seize a good deal when I find one, and the Jewel was too good to pass up. You might be wondering, what exactly is a Pequegnat clock and where does the Jewel fit into their model lineup?

A Pequegnat clock refers to clocks produced by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company, a renowned Canadian manufacturer active from 1904 to 1941 in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada. These clocks are celebrated for their quality craftsmanship and distinct place in Canadian horological history. Pequegnat clocks were a common feature in many Canadian homes.

I now have twelve Pequegnat clocks in my collection, consisting of several mantel clocks and three wall clocks.

Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe
Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe

In 2018, I purchased a Pequegnat Simcoe clock from a shop in Victoria, British Columbia, for nearly $200—a price I found fair at the time. More recently, I came across the Jewel model in an antique shop just 20 minutes from home. Though it was perched on a high shelf, I recognized it instantly. Given its significantly lower price, I couldn’t resist adding it to my collection.

An excellent price for a Pequegnat mantel clock

The case dimensions of both are exactly the same and each has the earlier Berlin-style piecrust dial.

Pequegnat Jewel

Three features differentiate the Jewel from the Simcoe. First, the Jewel was a less expensive clock. It is likely one of the least expensive mantel clocks in the Pequegnat mantel clock lineup, offering a more affordable option for many Canadian families.

Secondly, the Jewel lacks the lion’s head side handles and decorative feet found on the Simcoe.

Third, although the movement is identical to the Simcoe, the Jewel has a smaller gong block. A smaller gong block would still produce sound, but with a less resonant tone, which was considered an acceptable tradeoff for keeping production costs lower.

Condition of the dial

Unfortunately, the dial on the Jewel has been completely stripped of its paint. I’m willing to accept a dial with some imperfections—after all, the paint on the Simcoe’s dial is flaking, but that’s part of its aging process and what gives it its antique character.

A ruined dial

However, a dial completely stripped of its paint, aside from the chapter ring and numerals, is unsightly and distracting. I completely understand why this was done. More expensive Pequegnat clocks featured enamel dials, while the more common models had painted dials, which are prone to flaking after many years and this clock must have had extensive paint loss.

While some might have left the dial as it was, viewing it as part of the clock’s history, the extent of the modification made it impossible for me to leave it as is. The fact that the clock only cost me $45 also made me more willing to take the risk to remediate the dial.

Repainting a dial is usually a last resort for me, and I wouldn’t recommend it unless you have steady hands, plenty of patience, the necessary materials, or the option to outsource the work to an artist friend or an expert. Outsourcing might be a good choice, particularly for dials with sentimental value, as it ensures the work is handled with precision and care by an expert. Preserving the integrity and charm of a cherished clock often warrants entrusting the work to skilled hands such as The Dial House.

Some time ago, I restored the dial on a Seth Thomas clock using a technique called inpainting, and I was very pleased with the results. I also touched up the dial to a Pequegnat Canuck shelf clock with very satisfactory results.

A decision was made

As I considered my options, I decided that if the inpainting did not turn out as planned, I could always order a paper dial from an eBay supplier and place it over the original.

The paint was painstakingly scraped away, but the result was far from pleasing

However, the cost of the dial alone would exceed what I paid for the clock. Besides, I’m not particularly fond of paper dials.

I know that once I’m done with the dial, my artistic “talent” will be apparent upon close inspection. However, I’m confident it will be an improvement over its current state.

To carry out this procedure, the hands, dial/bezel must be removed. There are just two screws at 3 and 9 o’clock that hold the dial assembly in place. Once the assembly is removed, the glass and its bezel can be separated from the dial and set aside.

Once the dial was removed, I cleaned the stripped surface with isopropyl alcohol. It evaporates quickly and leaves no residue, and since the dial had no remaining paint aside from the chapter ring and numerals, I wasn’t concerned about damaging the finish and simply worked around the painted areas.

A small dab of yellow is enough

The dial was likely originally white but had aged to a darker cream color over time. To recreate this, I mixed a touch of canary yellow with cotton ball white to achieve the perfect shade. I used both a broad artist’s brush and a fine-point detail brush to apply the first coat. Multiple coats are necessary, but the first coat needs to be cured before adding another.

I’m using water-based acrylic paint, which is self-sealing and becomes permanent when baked at low heat however, this dial will not be spending time in an oven. Once another coat or two is applied I can use a pointed tip detail brush to reshape the numerals using black paint.

The first coat is acceptable, though a bit blotchy due to the uneven spread of paint across the dial. The tin was very visible, so I knew that more than one coat would be necessary.

I mixed the yellow and white paint the same way for the second coat, this time adding a touch of chocolate brown.

However, the bare metal is still visible, indicating that at least one or possibly two more coats will be needed. I’m considering going a shade darker for the next layer by adding a touch more brown, but I’ll take some time to think it over before deciding. I’m starting to notice a lovely transformation in the dial, shifting from its stark tin appearance to a more pleasing shade of cream.

That wraps up Part I of this two-part series. In Part II, coming in the new year, I’ll continue the restoration process by applying additional coats to the dials and refining the numerals and chapter ring. Stay tuned!

Pequegnat gingerbread clock and dial inpainting

In light of current world events the antiquevintageclock.com family wish to convey our sympathy and condolences to those effected by Covid 19

In this article, I will describe the steps taken to inpaint and restore the dial of an Arthur Pequegnat time and strike gingerbread clock.

But first, what is inpainting? And what does it have to do with clock dials?

Inpainting is a dial restoration or conservation process where damaged, deteriorating, or missing parts of a dial are filled in to present a complete image.

And what does the term dial restoration mean?

Dial restoration includes adhering loose flakes, filling areas of loss, cleaning, colour matching, repairing graphics, inpainting of decorative artwork and sealing. Some dials are easier to work on than others but generally speaking American antique clocks dials are good candidates. Dial inpainting can be hit and miss, and the final results can range from fair to excellent.

Here is an earlier project. The before photo shows the significant losses on the dial of an 1850s Seth Thomas column and cornice clock.

Before inpainting

And, after inpainting. In this example, restoring the floral spandrels and the chapter ring was the most challenging part of the project.

Working on a clock dial

I was pleased with the final result though these dials are among the easiest to work on.

After: Seth Thomas dial, column and cornice clock

Now let’s turn to a circa 1918 Arthur Pequegnat Canuck time and strike gingerbread clock. There was considerable paint loss, numerals in a script that is a challenge to reproduce and a chapter ring consisting of small dashes with a 4-dot pattern every 5 minutes. To make matters worse, a previous owner had made an attempt to paint in larger sections of the dial.

Given its poor condition, I was initially tempted to buy a replacement dial; $50.00 for paper-on-tin and $4.00 for a paper dial plus tax and shipping. However, I decided to attempt inpainting.

My supplies, which I have on-hand, consisted of:

  • Level 3 – 10/0 spotter artist’s paintbrush
  • #2 artist’s paintbrush
  • A selection of satin finish water-based acrylic paints; white, yellow, red, and blue
  • Black paint for numerals
  • Pitt artist’s pen, fine tip
  • Pencil eraser
  • Toothpicks for mixing paint
  • Q-Tips to remove over painted areas and polish brass bezel
  • Woodblock

Supplies

Occasionally I use a pencil eraser to remove dirt around the centre and winding arbour hole holes. It is very effective at removing years of dirt and grime.

White is the base paint. Others colours are mixed to replicate the aged finish. There is no magic to this. It takes trial and error to match the dial colour which had yellowed considerably over the years. An exact match is more luck than skill and there are a thousand shades of off-white. I suggest painting in warm light or natural light for best results. Arriving as close as possible to the aged finish was my objective.

The numbers were in reasonably good shape and it takes a steady hand to fill in the missing sections especially the dashes on the chapter ring. For very thin lines, I use a black artist’s pen with a fine tip.

Before and after

Of course, upon close examination, you can see the infilled areas and the touched-up numbers but from average viewing distance, it is difficult to tell.

About 1/2 meter away (the case had been cleaned earlier).

While I was working in the dial I cleaned the brass bezel with Q-Tips and Brasso.

Before (inset) and after

There are some dials I leave as-is since the age and patina of the dial is an important part of the character of the clock but if it is too far gone, as in these examples, inpainting is certainly an option.

All in all a very satisfying project. Now on to servicing the movement.

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