Bushing a Jauch clock movement barrel

Over the past seven years, I’ve installed a number of bushings in clock movements, but I had never attempted to bush a clock spring barrel until now. While some clockmakers regularly bush barrels, this is the first time I’ve encountered a barrel mainspring in such poor condition. Despite being my first attempt at bushing a barrel, the process was largely successful.

Two years ago, I purchased a Jauch schoolhouse clock at auction for $50. It features a straightforward, time-only movement, making it an excellent choice for anyone new to clock repair.

Jauch drop octagon wall clock — _{Jauch movement}

German clock movements from the 1970s were not always built to the highest standards, often plagued by two key issues: plated pivots and soft brass. Softer steel pivots were used to prolong the life of cutting machines, with plating added to provide sufficient hardness. Unfortunately, this plating wears away over time, leaving the pivot significantly worn.

This particular movement does not have plated pivots. However, the second issue—soft brass—is evident. In this case, the steel arbor has caused significant wear to the brass cap and barrel.

_{Another shot of the enlarged hole on the cap}

During a previous servicing, I installed three bushings but did not address the mainspring barrel.

Since I purchased the clock, it has consistently run 10 minutes fast at the start of the 8-day cycle and 10 minutes slow by the end. There’s likely some underlying physics related to barrel slop that affects this erratic behavior, though the exact cause eludes me. Clearly, something unusual is at play. Will bushing the barrel and its cap improve the running characteristics of this movement? Time will tell.

A Challenging Repair

For the barrel repair, I chose a #60 Bergeon bushing to fit the reamed-out hole, as it was the largest size available in my bushing supply.

_{Largest Bergeon bushing with an outside diameter of 8.5mm}

_{The ratchet gear must be removed to work on the barrel arbour}

To remove the barrel arbor from the barrel, I first had to take off the ratchet gear. Lacking a gear puller, I placed the barrel in a vice, positioned two pieces of wood on either side beneath the ratchet, and gave the arbour a light tap with the nylon end of a brass hammer. The ratchet came off easily.

After popping off the barrel cap, I used my spring winder to remove the mainspring, allowing access to the barrel. I then restrained the spring with a collar. So far, everything was going smoothly.

_{Jauch mainspring barrel in Olie Baker spring winder, with capture collar on righ}t

I positioned the barrel in my Bergeon bushing machine and used the centering bit to establish the center. Using an 8.47mm cutter, I created a hole and installed the bushing. To secure it, I peened the bushing in place, forming a lip on both ends to ensure it stayed firmly seated. With the barrel complete, I moved on to the cap.

This is where things didn’t go quite as smoothly. I centered the cap as accurately as possible on my bushing machine, drilled through it, and installed a bushing of the same size. However, the arbour’s diameter on the cap side was larger than on the barrel side, so I used another reamer to enlarge the inside of the bushing. As I worked, I noticed the bushing wall was becoming quite thin. To preserve a sufficiently thick wall, I decided to reduce the diameter of the arbour. Using my metal lathe and a cutter, I trimmed the arbour to achieve a proper fit. Once satisfied, I peened the bushing in place.

When I reinstalled the barrel into the movement, I noticed that the cap could have been better centered. There is a slight tilt, which became apparent once the barrel was in place. I wondered whether the gear would properly mesh with the second wheel pinion as the barrel rotates or if it might rub against the second wheel. After a few days of observation, it seemed to function without issue.

Looking back, I realize it would have been better to bush the barrel side first, test it, and then move on to the cap side. It’s all part of the learning process!

Next time, taking extra care to pinpoint the exact center will undoubtedly lead to a better result. Given that this is a budget clock and not my finest work, I see it as a valuable experience.

July 13, 2019

Jauch wall clock – the end of an era

Jauch Vienna styled wall clock circa 1980

I was asked to take a look at this German made wall clock from the 1980s. The owner said it had not been running for 3 years. It is a German made Jauch wall clock from the late 1970s.

Sadly, the doors of the Jauch clock company closed many years ago. Jauch was not a notable supplier of whole clocks but Jauch did produce lots of clock movements after WWII to various assemblers. Many of these assemblers made clock cases or supplied kits with faces, hands and pendulum assemblies from other sources.

Continue reading “Jauch wall clock – the end of an era” →

May 27, 2019

Jauch Drop Octagon – one problem I cannot address…..yet!

We often cruise the HiBid sites. While they may be wholly Canadian I am sure there are similar sites in the US. HiBid are a hosting service for antique online auction companies and from time to time clocks come up on estate sales.

One day in early February 2017 we were on a Nova Scotia HiBid auction site and noticed a Jauch drop octagon with a PL42 movement. I made what I thought was a reasonably good bid. We had errands to run that day so I just left the bid, got home later and realized and surprised that I had won. It was a good purchase. After running for several weeks I opened the case up and discovered its hidden secret.

Time only movement — Time-only Jauch movement

The clock easily runs a full 8-day cycle but it gains about 5-7 minutes at the beginning of the cycle and loses the same at the end of the cycle. A dramatic difference! A properly functioning clock is designed to run at an acceptable rate of + or- 1 minute per week but this depends on adequate power to the escapement with very little fluctuation in that power.

Scored pivots and worn barrel arbor holes are real issues for this movement. The pivots are small, a light touch with a buff stick and a minimal polish along with pegging and round broaching the holes should be the first steps in reviving this clock. Bushing work is also quite possible. The barrels are another matter. If worn, they require bushing. The cap is too thin to bush without making a thin flange or leaving the bush a bit proud and peening both sides. The barrel is narrow and it is said that they really get the wobbles when worn.

This is an inexpensive German movement but finely made and well engineered. An overhaul should result in a good long run.

I took the movement apart and discovered two things. One, it needs at least 3, perhaps 4 bushings and secondly, there is a significant gap in the barrel cap as seen in the photo below.

Barell showing a very wide gap — Barrel cap showing a wide gap caused by wear around the arbour, weak point of this movement

Front plate is removed showing going train

The real issue for me is the barrel cap. I can attempt to bush the cap but the bushing would likely not hold unless it is peened. The gap is causing an unbalance in power transmitted through the gears as a result of the wear. The soft brass barrel cap is definitely a weakness of this movement. The result is the erratic running described above and a wobble in the pendulum. I contacted a gentleman in Arizona who would be prepared to correct the wear by installing two new bushings on the gear side and cap of the barrel. The cost is 1 1/2 times the value of the clock so I have decided against that option. It is just not worth it!

1 Day Later

I installed 3 bushings. The front side of the escape wheel arbour, the front side of the second wheel and the minute shaft. I re-assembled the movement, oiled it, adjusted the pallets, reinstalled the worn barrel and have put the movement back into its case. It is now running and in the next week or two I will see what effect new bushings will have on the running of the clock. My hope is a marginal improvement given the worn barrel.

A barrel repair will have to wait until I have the proper tools.

June 30, 2017

German “schoolhouse clock” by Gebruder Jauch?

The Germans would not have called them schoolhouse clocks, rather, short drop octagon wall clocks. The term “schoolhouse clock” is typically an American description.

The stylistic features of the Jauch reminds me of my Canadian made Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II wall clock

We often cruise the HiBid sites. I am not sure if they are wholly Canadian but may be in the US as well. HiBid are a hosting service for antique online auction companies and from time to time clocks come up on estate sales on various sites. One day in the past week (early February 2017) we were on a Nova Scotia HiBid auction site and noticed a Jauch drop octagon with a PL42 movement and I made what I thought was a reasonably small bid. We had errands to run that day so I just left the bid, got home later and realized that I had won. It was a good purchase.

The stylistic elements of the Jauch reminds me of my Canadian made Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II wall clock pictured here.

AP repaired_3 — Brandon II by the Arthur Pequegnat Company of Kitchener Ontario, Canada

I picked the clock up yesterday (mid February 2017). There is very little wrong with it. I took the movement out of it’s case, inspected it, noticed that it was not very dirty, gave it some oil, and put it on the wall and it ran like a charm. Since it is not in dire need of disassembly and cleaning I decided to leave that for another day.

It has some unusual features. The case is solid oak, no veneers and surprisingly heavy for a clock made in 1976. The finish is light oak. The case measures 15 inches wide by 23 inches long, 5 1/4 inches deep. The movement is a time only, typical spring driven recoil escapement stamped PL42, is heavy and is well constructed with quality gearing. The date of manufacture for the movement is September, 1976. The dial bezel is hinged at the top and the spade hands are what you would typically find on this style of clock. The dial is paper on tin. The pendulum has a large and heavy nut on the back of the bob that may not be original to the clock and I am inclined to think it is a replacement. The bob can be seen through a glazed lower access panel. The previous owner made a crude “adjustment” to the case to accommodate the pendulum swing (last photo). One of two wall stabilizer screws can be seen in the fourth photo below. There is a missing top section access panel on the back of the clock that I may or may not replace.

Solid oak construction — Well made solid oak construction

The clock is a Gebruder Jauch wall clock. Gebruder Jauch was a clock company from Schwenningen, Deisslingen, Germany. The Gebruder Jauch company manufactured hall, wall, and mantel clocks. They made movements for the trade, both spring and weight driven. In the late 1970’s the company fell victim to curtailed exports and the last recorded year of operation was 1978. The year they began is unclear but 1912 seems to be the consensus. Otherwise, I could find very little on this clock company. Perhaps someone can enlighten me.

February 11, 2017

A Challenging Repair

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