New to clock repair? Here are some errors to avoid

Clock repair and restoration can be a rewarding yet delicate process, requiring both skill and patience. Whether you’re working on an antique clock or a vintage movement, there are several common pitfalls that can easily derail your progress if you’re not careful. From handling mainsprings to ensuring proper oiling, small mistakes can lead to bigger issues down the road.

In this article, we’ll explore some of the most frequent mistakes made during clock repair and share tips on how to avoid them, ensuring your repairs are both successful and long-lasting.

Mainsprings

When working with mainsprings, always be cautious about how they are stored and handled. If two mainsprings are placed on top of each other, they may mate together in a way that makes it nearly impossible to separate them without damaging the springs. To avoid this, always position them so that they wind in opposite directions. This ensures they cannot interlock and will be easy to handle separately when the time comes.

Orientation of the Count Wheel

The count wheel plays a critical role in regulating the striking sequence of a clock. Different movements may have count wheels that rotate in opposite directions, so it’s essential to remember or note the orientation of the count wheel when removing it. If you fail to mark or track which way it goes, you may end up installing it incorrectly, which can result in malfunctioning strikes. Always take care to note the direction of rotation when removing any component like this.

Broken pressure washer on the count wheel

Helper Springs

Helper Springs may look like an add-on but are part of the original manufacturing process. Novices are tempted to leave them out when servicing a clock reasoning that they were added later during a repair.

Helper springs are vital for the correct functioning of certain levers and gears in a clock’s movement. If these springs are not properly attached, the levers may fail to operate as they should, and the springs can even interfere with other components, preventing them from working as intended. Make note of the orientation of the helper springs during disassembly and always check that all helper springs are in place and attached securely before reassembling the movement.

Take Special Care with Pivots

Patience is key when working on clock movements. If pivots are difficult to fit or the plates don’t seem to align correctly, it’s tempting to apply more force. However, applying too much pressure can bend or damage the pivots, which may be difficult to fix without professional tools or techniques. Instead of forcing components, carefully assess the situation, ensure everything is aligned, and use minimal force to avoid damaging the pivots.

An especially designed pivot locator can be your best friend.

Think twice before concluding a part is defective

It’s easy to jump to conclusions when diagnosing problems with a clock movement. You might assume that a part is defective or not functioning properly, but this is often not the case. Before replacing any parts, make sure you have thoroughly inspected the movement and confirmed that the part is indeed damaged or worn. Assumptions can lead to unnecessary replacements, costing both time and money. Always verify before proceeding.

Taking photos is a best practice

Taking pictures during disassembly is a common practice, but there’s a risk in doing this too early. If you take pictures before thoroughly understanding how the clock is put together, the images can become a source of confusion later on. You may forget specific orientations, parts, or connections, leading to problems when reassembling the movement. Instead, take the time to carefully observe and document each part’s position as you disassemble the clock. This will help ensure a smoother reassembly process.

Stop and Think Before Cleaning a Dial

Many a dial has been ruined by a repairer’s eagerness to clean it. If the dial needs cleaning, consider using a gentle hand-cleaning method (soap, water and a soft cloth will do) to avoid any damage like the damage to a UM Muller clock dial below.

Dials, especially antique ones, are delicate and can easily be damaged by the high-frequency vibrations in an ultrasonic cleaner. The cleaner may strip paint, damage decals, or even warp the dial if it’s not carefully handled. Always remove the dial before placing any components in the ultrasonic cleaner.

Proceed in a Safe Manner

When disassembling a clock movement, always ensure the mainsprings are securely restrained before you separate the plates.

_{Clamps for mainsprings ensure safety when working on movements}

If the plates are removed without securing the mainsprings, they could unwind suddenly, potentially causing damage or injury. Use a mainspring winder, clamps, or similar tools to restrain the springs before beginning the disassembly process to avoid any accidents.

When using a spring winder, it’s important to wear thick leather gloves and eye protection to safeguard yourself from potential surprises if a spring fails. These precautions help minimize the risk of injury from sudden, high-pressure releases.

Resist the urge to bend things

During repairs, it’s easy to inadvertently bend parts while trying to make them fit or forcing them into place. Parts of the striking mechanism, especially on the striking levers, are particularly prone to bending. Once bent, they can be difficult to straighten and may not work correctly afterward. Always handle parts with care, and if something does not fit easily, take the time to inspect the alignment or find the correct adjustment method rather than forcing it into place.

Over-oiling is Never a Good Idea

As a person I knew once said; “if a little is good, a lot is better”. It’s tempting to apply generous amounts of oil when servicing a clock, but over-oiling can lead to a number of issues.

Excess oil can attract dust and dirt, which will gunk up the movement and cause it to run less smoothly. It can also seep into areas where it shouldn’t be, like on the dial or outside of the movement, leaving unsightly stains. Always use an approved clock oil sparingly, and only in the areas where it’s needed. A little goes a long way, and it’s better to apply no more oil than necessary rather than risk over-oiling the movement.

To Summarize

Clock repair requires not only skill but also a cautious approach to avoid common mistakes that can lead to damage or injury. By taking the necessary precautions—such as properly handling mainsprings, ensuring parts are correctly installed, and using minimal force—you can prevent costly errors and ensure a successful repair. Patience and attention to detail, will make all the difference in restoring a clock to its full functionality, allowing it to run smoothly for years to come.

Suggestions and tips for novices? Join the conversation.

December 10, 2024

Gilbert time and strike – why I am putting the movement aside for now

ome clockmakers are not fond of putting Gilberts back together

While antiquing some time ago I came across boxes of clock movements in a shop. Some were fairly new though I found a Gilbert time and strike date stamped 1906 which piqued my interest. In the box was the key, the coil gong, clock hands, pendulum and movement mounting screws. A movement without a case. Hmm, interesting! Here’s what I’m thinking.

You dig up an old clock from the basement. It was your mothers and you were immediately reminded of the soothing sound of the clock when you were a kid. Wouldn’t it be nice to get that old clock running again. You fiddle with it and despite your best efforts you just cannot get the thing going. Why not bring it to the local clock-maker? He takes a look at it and explains that it is worn out. It will cost much more than the clock is worth to repair it, he says. But there is a solution. Take the works out and replace the movement with a reliable quartz one and all for less than half the cost of a repair. It sure would be nice to get that old clock running again and who would know that a new quartz movement is inside. The clock-maker takes the movement out, asks the customer if they want it, puts it in a box on a shelf and uses it for parts on the next clock. I’ll bet I’m close.

It is a Gilbert time and strike with a passing bell strike on the half hour. It has a distinctive 24 hour count wheel meaning that the count wheel rotates just once every 24 hours, each half with slots for 12 hours.

Gilbert time and strike date stamped 1906

It sat in a box in my office for several months. The other day I placed the movement on a test stand to determine its condition, wound the time side and BANG, the mainspring blew apart. A nice clean break! Luckily it did not take me or any other parts with it. The break was so far from the loop end that the mainspring was not salvageable. You can see the snapped section of the left mainspring in the photo above. Determined to see this movement in running condition I ordered a new spring from a clock supply house.

When I dis-assembled the movement it was worn but repairable. However, all pivots were in very good condition except one, the second wheel on the time side, front plate. It was worn at the shoulder as you can see in the next photo.

Was this enough to stop the clock and why just one? Perhaps a combination of factors. It is the second wheel and under the most axial load or probably a contaminated pivot hole with enough embedded detritus that would have ground away at the pivot shoulder.

There are only two solutions, fashion a new pivot or turn down the pivot and polish it. Fashioning a new pivot is a lot of work. However, there is enough steel left after it is turned down to give me a strong pivot. I chose the second option and installed a new bushing to fit the new pivot size which is much easier than re-pivoting. I put the wheel on a lathe and ground the pivot down to the size I wanted and then gave it a polish.

New bushing that had to be punched to stay in place — New bushing had to be punched to stay in place

The second issue was an old bushing that had been installed at some point in the clocks life. I drilled out the old bushing knowing that the replacement bushing would be loose. Alas, it slipped out too easily. The solution, two punches adjacent to the bushing to secure it in place. Punching a brass movement is rarely a good idea but this was a solution that was appropriate to the situation.

I installed two more bushings on the strike side second wheel back plate and third wheel front plate and one more on the time side, second wheel, back plate.

With the new mainspring installed and the repairs completed, it was time to assemble the clock and test it. I cannot count the number of times when I have re-assembled an American time and strike only to find that the strike setup was slightly out of adjustment. You know you have a problem when the clock strikes until the mainspring winds down. Placing the lever in the maintenance cam while the count lever is directly into the deep slot and hoping that the warning wheel pin locks at just the correct moment is always fun. I have cursed a few times when I cannot get it right. In this case it was first time lucky, the stop pin was in the right location on my first try.

On the test stand, bell is now fixed in place

Toothpicks reminding of the location of the bell lever — As an aid in re-assembly toothpicks remind me of the location of the bell lever

The clock has been running but does not seem to be able to get past 5 days of an 8-day cycle. I realize that there are some things I need to address before I get this clock running a full cycle but I have other projects on the go. Since this movement does not have a case I took it off the test stand, put it in a box on a shelf, included some notes, and will address it at a later date when and if I ever get a case.

Gilbert Notes — Notes about the movement reminding me what needs to be done

So, I’ll wait for that illusive case but in the meantime into storage it goes.

June 30, 2018

New Haven Ogee clock – attractive but not without issues

Lower tablet shiowing reverse paintiung of flowers

Ogee New Haven clock — Mini Ogee by New Haven, the gaps in the door indicate that the front was once veneered and later stripped

This spring driven 30 hour New Haven Ogee clock is a loud ticker and rapid striker so distinctive that I can hear the ticking outside the room it is in like a mischievous puppy who wants to remind you where it is.

Judging from other New Haven clocks I have researched from this period, 1875 seems to be the approximate date of manufacture. The case measures 18 1/2 by 11 3/4 inches (47cm X 30cm) and the movement measures 3 1/2 by 5 inches (9cm X 12.7cm); a small ogee styled clock some would call a mini.

The clock is a mere reflection of its former self but not unattractive

The New Haven clock Co. has had a long and illustrious history. In 1853 the Haven Clock Company was founded in New Haven, Connecticut by Hiram Camp (1811‑1892) and other clock-makers. The company’s mission was to mass produce inexpensive brass clock movements for use in clocks. In April, 1856 The New Haven Clock Company bought out a competitor’s company, the Jerome Clock Company. They moved their production to the former Jerome factory and New Haven began making clocks under their own trademark. In 1870 some of New Haven’s clocks were marketed under the Jerome & Co. brand.

In 1885 the company stopped selling clocks other than their own New Haven brand. In 1890 the company developed serious financial problems and efforts were made to keep it solvent until 1897 at which time the company emerged after reorganization. In 1902 Walter Chauncey Camp (1859-1925) began to turn the company around. In 1923 Walter Camp stepped down as head of the company and is succeeded by Edwin P. Root.

In 1929 Richard H. Whitehead replaced Root as president of the company but New Haven again faced financial difficulties compounded by the Great Depression in November, 1929. Whitehead was able to keep the company afloat during these troubled times and the firm regained profitability. From 1943 to 1945 the company turned to the war effort, producing products almost exclusively for military use. In March of 1946 The New Haven Clock and Watch Company became the new name of the firm after it reorganized once again. It returns to what it did best before the War, making clocks and watches.

The 1946 reorganization eventually leaves the company vulnerable to foreign investors and it lost control to a consortium of Swiss watchmakers. The man who had successfully shepherded the company through the hard times of the Depression years, resigned as president. In 1956 the New Haven Clock and Watch Company filed Chapter 10 bankruptcy in a U.S. court. Its fortunes have declined precipitously since Whitehead’s departure and it never recovered. In 1960 the company went out of business and the production lines closed. The facilities were sold through a combination of public auction and private negotiation in March of 1960.

Coiled gong - a replacement? — Coiled gong – a replacement from an E. N. Welch or a Gilbert.

This 30 hour New Haven Ogee looks good from a distance but closer inspection reveals a number notable issues. The movement appears original to the case and the case is in fair condition having been reconditioned at one time. Although the sides of the clock are veneered, the veneer on the front has been stripped off presumably because there was too much loss/damage. There is also some veneer loss on the top right side. Crude chisel marks on the left front indicate that the veneer in that area might have been more difficult to strip off. Unfortunate, but I have no intention of re-veneering the front. From a distance it still looks good and the casual observer will hardly know the difference.

The coil gong is a replacement and is in a slightly different location than the original gong judging from screw holes to the right. I can only surmise that the original gong somehow broke. This gong is probably from an E. N. Welch or a Gilbert.

30 hour movement - front plate — 30 hour movement – front plate showing factory installed oil cups

There are oil sinks on the front but not the back plate. The sinks on the front plate are stamped by the factory and were made to look like a more expensive clock since most would not see the rear plate. An odd decision by the manufacturer but a common practice.

Side view of 30 hour movement showing count wheel and cam wheel

The plates are pinned (rather than the newer bolts or screws) and there are two solid gear wheels suggesting that it is an earlier version of this particular 30 hour movement. The suspension spring and leader are a replacement as expected given the age of the clock. The pendulum bob is a replacement and so is the dial face.

I took the movement from its case, inspected it for wear and applied clock oil. The clock is running well and does not require immediate servicing.

The clock is a mere reflection of its former self but not unattractive.

January 20, 2018

E. N. Welch Whittier model parlor clock Part III – more issues than anticipated

E. N. Welsh Whittier model — E. N. Welch Whittier parlour clock

A very dirty and oily movement. — A very dirty, oily and rusty movement

This is perhaps the dirtiest movement I have ever worked on

This is perhaps the dirtiest movement I have ever worked on. The case, tablet and dial face are in beautiful condition and nicely preserved requiring little or no work at all to restore to its former glory but the movement is another story. A past owner either sprayed oil on the movement or dipped it in some kind of lubricant on more than one occasion. The oil was gooey, sticky and seemingly baked on. It required several washings, vigorous scrubbing with a brass brush, ultrasonic cleaning and even #0000 steel wool. I finally got most of the grime, dirt and rust off the movement.

Having so much solder on a movement is a little discouraging and I often wonder what problems lie beneath. There was solder on the centre plate nut, solder on the front and back plate, 4th wheel on the strike side and solder around the hour cannon. I decided to leave the solder on the hour cannon for now. However unsightly, I may not remove it.

Washer around centre cannon — Soldered washer around centre cannon

The solder was removed with a butane torch. Expecting bad bushing repairs and/or punch marks I found nothing! I also removed the solder around the centre nut and found that the nut was not stripped as I initially suspected. I am puzzled.

Here is a video describing my plan to address bushing work.

In the video I mentioned the installation of eight bushings. I installed seven bushings initially but installed more later on as I discovered other power issues. One is always tempted to bush everything in a movement. Some clock-makers tend to bush everything because the one thing they do not want is the clock coming back. I understand that but I decided to take a cautious approach for this movement and bush what I felt was absolutely required.

Punching the bushing home — Tapping the bushing home

After cleaning the movement the pivots were polished and pivot holes pegged. Next is assembly. I have mentioned this before that I do not have much luck getting the strike side to function on the first go-around. It usually takes me two or three attempts.

Day 2

Although I was unable to set up the strike setup correctly the principle problem was the poorly running time train. After 5-10 minutes it would stop. Suspecting a power issue I looked for bent arbours, troublesome trundles or worn gear teeth and found nothing.

However, I found considerable play in the centre arbour. Suspecting poor meshing of the main wheel with the centre arbour gear I installed the 8th bushing (back plate) then removed the strike side entirely to focus on the time train issue. The movement immediately ran but the beat was inconsistent.

A “drifting” beat (in beat and then drifts out of beat, then in-beat) usually indicates an issue with the escape wheel teeth or the escape wheel arbour. Some of the EW (escape wheel) teeth have slightly bent tips but before I straighten them I wanted to determine if there were other reasons for the stoppage.

Day 3

The clock ran for about 48 hours and suddenly stopped. I dis-assembled the movement (again) and installed three more bushings, one on the escape wheel bridge which I noticed had a fair amount of pivot wear, the other two on the third wheel, back and front mostly for insurance. I surmised that vertical motion of the EW might be causing the inconsistent beat leading to the eventual stoppage. Addressing the bent tips on the EW teeth may come later if these measures do not cure the problem.

Day 4

The time side is settling down and I am now able to get several days running without a stoppage. The beat is now consistent.

Day 5

I am going to let this clock run for a week or so before I reinstall the strike train just to be sure that there are no other power issues. I was hoping to wrap this service up fairly quickly but unanticipated problems are slowing me down.

I’ll give my final thoughts in a post in Part IV, two weeks time.

October 25, 2017

Canada Clock Co. – a cottage clock from the early 1880s

Half hour bell strike, those nuts are not original

Case is in fair condition, dial face has some flaking, piece broken on left side of base

We have a couple of antique stores in our small town. Calling them antique stores is a bit of a stretch because there is usually more junk inside than actual antiques. We were shopping in the area of one of those “antique” stores and my wife turned to me and said, “Let’s go in”. I replied, “You know, all they have is junk”.

I thought, I might have found something important

I acquiesced. While she continued her shopping I went on ahead to look around the store and in the very back I saw a very sad looking clock that at I took for an old Sessions or a Waterbury. As I neared the clock it piqued my interest and I began to see that it was quite old. I picked it up, looked for any markings on the dial face, found none then checked the back of the clock and discovered most of an intact label revealing a what I consider to be a significant find.

Back label in good condition for the age of the clock

It is a clock from the Canada Clock Company. The Hamilton Cottage Extra was one of a range of clocks in their Metropolitan line.

This is an important discovery. The owner of the store knew nothing about clocks. He was asking $99 but after a bit of haggling, we settled on $40. I knew that it was worth much more.

Here is an excerpt on the Canada Clock Co. found at the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River Ontario (Canada).

This company was the last of three sequential attempts to produce clocks by factory methods in Canada during the 1872 – 1884 period. The original effort by the Canada Clock Company in Whitby, Ontario was basically unsuccessful and only limited production was achieved.

In 1876, the equipment was relocated to Hamilton, Ontario to begin a second attempt as the Hamilton Clock Company, with new investors. This attempt was more successful and a fairly wide range of clocks was produced. However, sales were not very large and some of the investors left the company by 1879. At that point the president, James Simpson, ended production and proceeded with a major reorganization.

The company subsequently became the Canada Clock Company using the old Hamilton Clock Company factory and resumed production in 1880 but as a result of poor sales closed its doors in 1884.

For more go to this page at the museum site.

Clocks from the Canada Clock Co.are sought after by collectors. For international readers this represents a rare find because the 1870s to the mid 1880s was a very important period for clock production in Canada. Apart from several independent clock-makers in Quebec and eastern Canada two notable companies made wholly Canadian clocks, The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. of Kitchener Ontario made clocks up to 1941 and Martin Cheney of Montreal made finely crafted clocks in the early 1820s. This clock was made at the Hamilton, Ontario factory which produced clocks from 1880 to 1884.

Original time and strike 30 hour movement — Original count wheel time and strike 30 hour movement

The 30-hour time and (bell) strike movement is in remarkably good condition and fairly clean. The back label in good condition for the age of the clock and there is a stamp on the top of the label which says, “…A Hill &Co.”. If any Hamiltonians are reading this I would be grateful if you could make inquires about this small retailer.

My preliminary examination reveals that this clock has had very few repairs over the years. I have not taken the movement out of its case to check bushing/gear wear and other issues but I am initially encouraged. The case reflects the age of the clock but I would judge the clock to be in just fair condition. There is a wooden piece that needs to be re-attached on the right side of the base. Fortunately that piece was tucked inside the clock case.

100+ years of grime came off easily; etched glass on the bottom part of the tablet is distinctive

The crudely made case is not overly decorative and reflects a muted Victorian style of the times. The lower part of the tablet has an etched glass floral design typically found in Canada Clock Company clocks. The door clasp is original. The dial face is flaked in places and not in the best of condition though the 2 floral designs on each bottom corner are nicely preserved. The hands are original. The case is not heavy and made of pine with a deep walnut stained finish. It was grimy and dirty as expected. It cleaned it up nicely with Murphy’s soap and a sharp hobby knife was used to remove the numerous paint drops on the clock. Why folks do not put something over the clock when painting a room amazes me.

I will put the clock aside until I can determine my next steps. Do I pursue a full restoration including renewing the dial face or leave the clock largely in as-found condition? In the meantime I will re-attach the wood piece on the left side of the base.

What would you do?

October 7, 2017

E. N. Welch Whittier model parlor clock Part II – a description

The Whittier Model

This is the Whittier model from Welch’s Authors series. Tran’s 2d ed. shows it from the 1893 catalogue. It is a half-hour strike clock. Though an alarm could be ordered this clock came without one.

It is solid walnut in construction, deep brown in colour and darkened by age. It stands 22 inches tall by 14 ½ inches wide and 5 inches deep. The crown is an ornate machine-cut design with a single bulls-eye. The Roman numeral dial face with inner brass ring is original but has been covered with a clear varnish.

The spade hands with circular cut-outs also appear to be original. The tablet is in remarkable condition and features an embossed gold colored scene of two female child warriors on each side presumably guarding an older female warrior (laurel and spear), reminiscent of Greek or Roman mythology.

There are two labels on the back panel, the top designates the model name which is barely readable; the bottom label has generic operating instructions for several types of clock models. Both labels appear to have been varnished over at some point. The upper area of the back panel has a hook for hanging the clock, added by a previous owner. However, this is a shelf or mantel clock, not meant to be hung on a wall. I doubt that the pendulum bob was this colour originally.

Though incorrectly termed a kitchen or gingerbread clock it is commonly referred to as a parlor or hall clock. Since the company last produced clocks in 1902 I would comfortably date this clock at between 1893-96 or perhaps a little later, 1901-02. The E. N. Welch Clock Company has a fascinating history (detailed in Part I of this series) and unfortunately not many of these well-made American clocks are still around.

In Part III I will describe the challenges of servicing the clock movement.

September 28, 2017

E. N. Welch Whittier model parlor clock Part I – E. N. Welch history

Among the most common parlor clocks, E.N. Welch clocks are relatively scarce. A key reason is that the company was absorbed by Sessions in 1903. The history of Welch is intriguing, as Welch, Spring & Co. initially focused on producing high-end clocks but eventually shifted to manufacturing cheaper, heavily discounted mass-market clocks—a move that likely contributed to its decline.

This time-and-trike American clock with a count wheel strike is an antique store find. I found it at what I would call a higher-end antique store in a small village in Quebec during one of our day travels from our summer cottage. I liked it so much I bought it. Because the strike side did not function there was a slight reduction in price.

The clock ran for several days and kept good time, but it was in desperate need of a cleaning. I was unable to get the strike side to run, though I hoped to fix it eventually. All the strike-side parts appeared to be present, but someone had clearly tampered with the levers, bending them significantly. It’s impossible to fully assess the situation until I take the movement apart.

History of E N Welch

The E. N. Welch Mfg. Co. was formed on July 6, 1864 to succeed an older private firm making clocks under the name of E. N. Welch. Elisha N. Welch (1809 to 1887) had been making clocks at a factory site on East Main Street at Forestville, Conn. since taking over the bankrupt business of J. C. Brown in about 1856.

A movement shop was established in 1869, adding to the two factories already in use by the firm. Between 1868 and 1884, a subsidiary firm called Welch, Spring & Company was formed to produce a more expensive line of clocks. The company was formed by three clock enthusiasts; Welch, Solomon Crosby Spring and Benjamin Bennet Lewis. The Welch firm was well known for its handsome rosewood cases, though in 1885, with changing styles in furniture, the surviving firm began to introduce new models with solid walnut cases and discontinued some of the older rosewood veneered cases.

Elisha Welch was enamored of a lovely (but very liberal-thinking) diva of the day from Spain by the name of Adelina Patti. He named his best quality movement after her, called the “Patti” movement. Clocks with this movement are highly sought after by serious collectors. However, Examples of “Patti” clocks at any of the international auction sites are rare.

After the death of Elisha Welch in 1887, the firm steadily declined, selling off some of its assets and issuing new stock to raise much needed capital. A new line of clocks was introduced for 1893, which were cheaper in quality than their already discounted line. In May of that year the factory was closed down and a receiver was appointed The receiver spent nearly two years selling off stock and settling the debts of the firm. It was not until 1896 that the firm resumed production.

In 1899, two fires, one in March and a second in December reduced most of the Welch manufacturing complex to ashes. Despite the completion of a new brick factory in 1900, the company could not meet its liabilities. Meanwhile, members of the wealthy Sessions family were buying out former stockholders and eventually took control of the firm in 1902. They changed the name to the Sessions Clock Company on January 9, 1903.

E. N. Welch clocks made before 1880 are considerably more desirable as these represent the height of the company’s clock-making. Clocks made before 1880 generally command higher auction prices. Compared to companies like Seth Thomas and Waterbury instances of E. N. Welsh clocks coming up on auction sites are becoming quite uncommon.

Stay tuned for more! In Part II, I will describe the Whittier and highlight some of its interesting features. In Part III, I will share my progress and discuss any challenges I encounter while servicing the movement.

September 21, 2017

More fascinating terms – the language of clocks

Regular reader and contributor JC suggested a few more clock terms I thought readers and fellow horologists might find interesting.

My source for this article is the Watch and Clock Encyclopedia by Donald de Clarke, published by Bonanza Books (1984) which is still available on Amazon.

Gridiron pendulum: A pendulum consisting of alternating steels and brass rods coupled together to compensate for downward expansion so that the centre of oscillation of the pendulum remains consistent with changes in temperature, invented by John Harrison in 1725.

final look — Gridiron pendulum on a Junghans Crispi wall clock

Broaches: To broach is to open and enlarge a hole. A Broach is a steel cutting or smoothing tool with a tapered or parallel sided edge used to cut or “finish” holes in a clock plate. Used to enlarge and then finish (smooth) a newly installed bushing on a clock plate.

Swiss made smoothing broaches — A set of Swiss made smoothing (or finishing) broaches

Motion Works: The train or wheels of a clock directly connected with the hour and minute hand.

Great wheel: The teeth that form part of the barrel of the going barrel. It is also the wheel to which the mainspring is attached.

The motion works of a clock; the largest wheel on this movement is the great wheel (Pequegnat Clock Co.)

Maintaining Power: A method to maintain the driving power while the weight is being lifted or mainspring with fusee is being wound. In effect keeping the mechanism going while winding.

Weight driven movement with maintaining power, (unmarked Vienna Regulator)

Huygens Endless Rope Drive: It is a method of providing maintaining power to drive the clock while the weight was being raised. The endless cord passes over pulley A which is attached to the great wheel and supports the driving weight B, it then passes over pulley C which has a ratchet to support small weight D. As cord E is pulled down to wind the clock ratchet C turns under it’s click to raise weight B which continues to drive the clock as it supplies torque to wheel A. This ingenious system is found in some 18th century long-case clocks.

Locking Wheel (or Count Wheel): A count wheel is the wheel that determines the number of blows to be struck in striking mechanisms.

The left wheel with notches is the count wheel

Ratchet wheel: A toothed wheel into which a click engages permitting the wheel to revolve in one direction only.

Click replaced — Toothed ratchet wheel and click

Cam: Usually a disk so that upon revolving it transmits movement to or exerts pressure upon a connecting unit.

Arrow showing location of a cam, the fly is located in the upper right

Fly: Often called the governor or controller of a chime or strike train. It is the last piece in a train of wheels.

The language of the clock world always amazes me. There are a plethora of other clock terms that I will be happy to explore in future blogs.

June 23, 2017

Mainsprings

Orientation of the Count Wheel

Helper Springs

Take Special Care with Pivots

Think twice before concluding a part is defective

Taking photos is a best practice

Stop and Think Before Cleaning a Dial

Proceed in a Safe Manner

Resist the urge to bend things

Over-oiling is Never a Good Idea

To Summarize

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

The clock is a mere reflection of its former self but not unattractive

Rate this:

Share this:

This is perhaps the dirtiest movement I have ever worked on

Rate this:

Share this:

I thought, I might have found something important

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this: