Smiths Enfield Mantel Clock

Restoring and repairing antique clocks is a rewarding and sometimes challenging journey, and my latest project has been no exception. I recently acquired a time-and-strike mantel clock from the Enfield Clock Company, a British manufacturer known for its utilitarian designs, especially post-war.

Smiths Enfield time and strike mantel clock

In this article, I will share my experiences as I continue to restore this time-and-strike mantel clock, detailing the steps I’ve taken so far, the challenges I’ve faced, and what I’ve learned along the way.

The Enfield Clock Co. & Association with Smiths

The Enfield Clock Company’s history is as intriguing as the clocks they produced. Established in 1929, Enfield became known for its mass-produced timepieces, manufactured using modern assembly line techniques inspired by American factory systems.

By the early 1930s, Enfield was manufacturing clock movements that were sold wholesale, eventually leading to the formation of the Smiths Enfield brand after the company was sold to Smiths Industries in 1933. The clocks, particularly those produced in the 1950s, reflected the utilitarian, post-war aesthetic of the time.

Initial Observations

When I first examined the clock, I could tell that it had been worked on by someone with a tinkerer’s touch, rather than a skilled clockmaker. Although its striking mechanism sounded great and the clock was visually appealing, I knew it required a thorough service to restore its functionality.

This clock occasionally stopped for no apparent reason and was difficult to keep in beat, prompting me to learn more about clock repair. The movement was relatively simple, with two trains, so I set out to clean and service it. As I worked through the process, I encountered some challenges, including an unhooked mainspring and worn pivot holes, but I made progress nonetheless. Though I had to delay some repairs due to my limited experience, I gained valuable insights into the inner workings of this timepiece and look forward to continuing the restoration.

Two pivot holes on the back plate were a little worn but not enough to cause any issues at this time. However, since I know very little about bushing work at this point I think it wise to put off repairs until I know how to do the work. A bushing machine is on the horizon but limited funds do not permit me to tackle those more in-depth repairs just yet. Anyway, back to the movement.

Movement showing hammer, and pendulum leader and bob

While reassembling the strike side the mainspring unhooked. I am not sure why. I was prepared to disassemble the movement to reattach the mainspring but a little wiggling corrected the problem.  Once the parts were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner and the parts were dried, the movement was assembled and oiled. There are two adjusting two screws on either side of the verge that determine the correct height between the pallets and the escape wheel. Through trial and error, I was able to get a good pendulum swing and a steady beat.

Tricky clip

I decided not to re-attach the 2 clips just yet since it would not take much to break them. Only after the clock has been running reliably and striking correctly will I reattach the clips.

Two ratchets

Not a good design in my view and I wonder if these clocks were ever meant to be worked on after they left the factory.

In the next article, I will share my experiences as I continue to restore this time-and-strike mantel clock, detailing additional steps I’ve taken so, the challenges I’ve faced with this project, and what I’ve learned along the way.

Dugena Mantel Clock Progress

 

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Dugena mantel clock

If you are following the progress on my Dugena mantel clock project it seems to be going fairly well though there have been some minor issues.

I had no trouble taking the movement apart and cleaning all the parts to the best of my ability. Everything seemed to be in good order with minimal wear. My initial method months ago of dunking the assembled clock in a solution clearly did not work. The clock did not run at all after that procedure. So, I put the clock aside to decide what to do. Dis-assembly is the only way to do the job correctly as I am learning. After a thorough cleaning comes re-assembly.

I have learned from taking apart movements that getting it back together means that once the back plate is on it is better to work from the bottom up, by getting the barrels in place, the main wheel and then working up to the top of the clock. Once I have the barrels in place I put on the lower nuts. I am not sure if that is the correct procedure but it works for me. I then use a pair of tweeters to carefully move the pivots in their proper place.

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The hammer assemblies are on the right side

The hardest part was re-aligning the hammer assemblies since the hammer wires are located outside the back plate. You can see this in the photo. I later learned that even when the clock is fully assembled the barrels will come out by simply removing the winding arbors and sliding them out. It’s all good learning!

It took a lot of fiddling to position the hammer assembly properly. With time (no pun intended) it all came together. Once the back plate was on securely next came the balance wheel escarpment and aligning the fork correctly which I think I did. I then put the clock in beat, oiled it and started it up. It did not run. Whoops, it needs power and had to be wound. I immediately noticed that the time barrel spring would not wind at all. I am guessing that the spring had, at some point become un-clipped from the barrel. I say un-clipped because I did not hear a broken spring sound. I switched barrels (#8S spring barrel) since they are the same for both time and strike. Once I got the barrels switched I gave the spring a few turns with the key, gave the balance wheel a little shove and the clock has been running for 24 hours as of this writing.

Does it keep time, I have no idea at this point? I suspect it does with a little adjustment. As for the strike side, if I can re-attach the mainspring within the barrel I am on my way to re-installing the movement back into it’s case. I know the strike side is working properly because when I had the good spring on that side for a brief period the strike assembly seemed to be working as it should.

Should I try to fix the mainspring or buy a new (or NOS) barrel and mainspring? I am not keen on fixing a mainspring because of potential injury but if I can scour around and get a used 8S barrel and mainspring for a reasonable price that would be the better option in my view.

As I said, it’s all good learning!

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