Last summer (2017) my sister asked me to look at her newly acquired Ansonia time-only 1-day cottage clock (circa 1895). “How much did you pay for it”, I said. “Only $25 but it doesn’t work, something is wrong with it,” she said without being specific. And she was correct.
The clock would have not cost much at the time, perhaps a dollar or so but today people collect small clocks such as this and prices can be higher than the more common mantel clock. In those days for an extra 50 cents you could buy a time and strike cottage clock with an alarm feature but his one is pretty basic. They were cheaply built, somewhat disposable since very few made their way to the repair shop and not as many have survived.
Several months have gone by and I thought I should take a look at the clock, repair the movement, spruce up the case and dial face and return it to my sister in working condition. Having completed a number of other projects I decided I had time to tackle this one.
Time-only 30 hour movement
It was dirty as expected and the gears generally loose, particularly the winding arbour. It was clear something around the mainspring was amiss. The click was loose and would not engage every time.
The top plate is removed
Time-only movements are the simplest to work on and this is no exception. If you are starting out in the world of mechanical clocks this is the movement to begin with. The movement is very small in comparison to mantel or kitchen clocks and measures only 2 inches wide by 3 inches tall. Despite its diminutive size, it is easy to work on. The case itself is only 9 1/2 inches tall by 7 inches wide by 3 1/2 inches deep.
The movement had been worked on before. The click anchor screw was stripped and there were punch marks on the escape wheel bridge.
New bushing but 2 punch marks are visible
The most troubling issue was the main wheel arbour which had detached from the gear. It took a few punches on the brass shroud to push it in back into place and secure the wheel to the arbour. Not the prettiest of repairs but very functional. The click was also loose and would barely engage the ratchet. It took a couple of hits with a hammer on the holding pin to secure it tightly in place.
The arbour is now secured to the wheel and the click has been repaired
Four bushings were installed, the centre arbour (rear), the rear of numbers 2 and 3 wheels and the escape wheel bridge.
Centering prior to drilling a hole for a bushing. You can also see how small the plate is
The clock was mounted on the test stand and run for several days without issue. Once testing was completed it was returned to its case.
The numbers on the dial were somewhat faded. I decided to address the numbers with a little paint.
Faded numerals on the dial face
I was concerned about being too invasive when touching up the dial but I thought the numerals should stand out a little more. I used a number 2 paintbrush and touched them up using flat black acrylic metal paint and a Sharpie pen for the small lines. The effect is subtle without being over the top.
After touching up the numbers with paint and using a Sharpie and straight-edge for the thin lines
The case was cleaned up with a toothbrush and Murphy’s Soap. There is some finish loss on top but I will leave that as-is.
Here is the completed project. The movement is now back in its case.
Assembled, in beat and ticking away strongly
The hands, which appear original, are attached and the clock is running better than it has in years.
I am sure that my sister will be pleased when the clock is returned to her.
As regular readers know I am a fan of Arthur Pequegnat clocks not just because they were made in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada but they are attractive, well made and hold their value well (in Canada!).
Eddy’s photo of the clock
I have had clocks given to me in the past but this was a rather unusual situation. As readers know I publish at least seven or eight articles a month in order to provide interesting content on all aspects of mechanical clocks. I publish a regular feature called Tick Talk Tuesday in which I profile the mail I receive from readers. The mail is private email and not comments after a blog article. I receive many emails you will not find on my blog. Some people prefer writing to me privately and that is perfectly fine.
I received one such email some time ago from Eddy who lives in the Quebec City area (Province of Quebec, Canada). Eddy was researching my blog and discovered that I admired and collected Canadian-made Arthur Pequegnat clocks. He wondered if I would have an Arthur Pequegnat clock added to my collection.
Because it was an Arthur Pequegnat I was immediately interested but I did not expect a reply. To my surprise Eddy answered with five photos of the clock from various angles. It was a mantel clock in pretty rough shape and after seeing his photos I was still curious even though it likely required a lot of work to restore it.
Top of the clock
In his email Eddy explained that he was having serious health issues and was taking stock of his life. He had a number of antique and vintage items that his father and grandfather had left him and he felt they should be passed on to someone who would appreciate having them. As Eddy explained, “My father had that clock as a trade against work done for people he helps with their house and lawn chores. He gave it to me since he’s got too many, just like my grand-father did. He was okay with me parting with it.”
I wrote back and told him that a meeting was indeed possible. We would be passing through the Quebec City area in the next few days on our way to our cottage in Quebec to open it up for the summer. We (my wife and I) had even planned to stay in that area for the night. We could stop by to have a look at the clock. Eddy then provided me with his address and telephone number. A meeting day and time was set up.
After nine hours of driving we arrived at his door. He invited us in and we spent a very pleasant two hours getting to know each other, discussing my collection of clocks, talking about the clock in question, his fathers hobby of searching out old antiques and finally, matters related to his struggle with a serious illness.
broken brass hinge
I was a little confused. Was he was actually giving me the clock or did he expect money in return so I decided to ask him straight out. No, he said, you can have it. he then brought out three other clocks to the kitchen table, a cottage clock, a steeple clock and a swinger. He asked me if I wanted those as well and I thanked him for the offer but declined. While they were very nice clocks I felt awkward taking all of them for nothing. So, we left with just one clock.
We walked out the door with clock in hand and for the next hour of our drive we talked about Eddy and his gift of an Arthur Pequegnat clock.
The clock was complete with original hands, pendulum bob, coil gong and of course, the signature Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates. The only visible sign of an issue with the movement was the time side mainspring which, as Eddy explained, could not be wound with a key. Damaged veneer, side trim pieces splitting open was clear evidence that at some point the clock had been dropped or fallen hard. The impact point was the very top of the clock. Yes, it was in rough shape!
A challenge to repair? Yes, but I graciously accepted the clock knowing that I would have to spend several hours putting it right.
Both sides and the trim front were coming apart
Thanks to Eddy I am now the new owner of an Arthur Pequegnat, Bedford model that I will add to my collection of four other Pequegnat clocks. In a later post I will detail the repairs to this fine Canadian made clock.
Eddy suggested that instead of offering him money that we donate to a charity and so a cheque went to the Canadian Cancer Society. I have never given names to my clocks but this one will always be called Eddy in honour of a individual who felt strongly that a family treasure should go to an appreciative owner.
Ogee clock prices seem to be at their lowest level in years. If you have your heart set on an Ogee clock, there is probably no better time to buy than now.
Ogee clock; clock design that originated in the United States in the 1830s, distinguished by a case (usually pine) the front outer edges of which are curved into an S-shape (ogee). This shape is formed by the union of a convex and a concave line. A mass-produced variant of the shelf clock, the ogee clock stands about 30 inches (75 cm) high and is usually weight-driven. The movements were usually made of brass and were made to run for 30 hours or eight days. (Brittanica.com)
Earlier this year (2018) I bought three Ogee clocks at an estate auction. There were about a dozen clocks up for bid, some gingerbreads, a couple of mantel clocks and a few Ogee clocks. Fearing that the auction would bring out collectors I surmised that the clocks would fetch somewhat higher prices. Though there were many clocks there were few aficionados. I scored three clocks, all were in very good condition though they were running poorly.
Daniel Pratt reverse ogee and splat clock
This Daniel Pratt Jr clock caught my eye. It is reverse ogee and splat, time and strike with wood movement made in the mid-1830s. My winning bid was a mere 30CDN. Ogee clocks with wood movements have sold for at least 200CDN in years past and eBay asking prices for Daniel Pratt Jr. clocks are typically between 60US and 200US. Although Ogee clocks have hit rock bottom in Canada the same may not be true elsewhere.
Wooden movement, time and strike
I have written about the decline in clock prices in a previous post. There is a legion of unwanted clocks out there. EBay and other online sites are flooded with ordinary antique clocks though special interest clocks still command higher prices. Many reasons are attributed to the decline though the poor economy in recent years is a major factor. Since 2008 clock prices have been dropping steadily and an upward direction in the near future looks dim. Prices are at or near the bottom. As the economy improves and antique buyers return to the marketplace we will see an uptick in values. In the meantime, now is certainly the time to buy.
Clocks, manufactured and warranted by Daniel Pratt Jr
I paid 60CDN each for the other two Ogee clocks, one a Chauncey Jerome 30 hour time and strike, circa 1857, the other, a George H. Clark 30 hour time and strike, circa 1860.
Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee clockGeorge H Clark 30 hour Ogee clock
Sellers are posting inflated prices but a clock is only worth what the buyer will pay. Do your research and learn to shop with a critical eye and you be rewarded.
The other day I decided to explore my humble beginnings and realized that 240 posts ago was post number one. Three years ago I had recently retired and I decided to look into blogging, something I always wanted to do. I never considered myself a great writer. I do not have that natural flair that some people seem to have for writing but I wanted to give it a try. I had some thoughts and ideas that I wanted to communicate with an audience that was looking for something a little different.
I attended a WordPress session at my local college and was very impressed with how easy it was to set up a blogging site. Anyone can do it said the facilitator and I wasted no time getting started. WordPress impressed me as a very intuitive package then and after 3 years I am still impressed with the power of the product.
This year as some of you know I decided to buy a domain name which I think is a great name and says everything it needs to, antiquevintageclock.com and a 1-year automatically renewable subscription. I won’t go into the additional benefits of the new package suffice to say the time was right for a change. The result has been a slight uptick in hits and exposure to more powerful options within WordPress.
Just a note about hits. In the first week or so of my new domain name my hits dropped dramatically, something to do with Google’s ranking analytics and not unusual for a brand new domain name. Of course, after I hit the migrate button and saw my hits drop I found an article that spoke directly to making preparations beforehand to avoid low hits after migration but too late for me. It would have been nice for a WordPress warning box to pop that would have read, “Oh, before you do that you may want to read this”
So, here is what I said three years ago. It was a short article and I remember at the time what a real struggle it was to put those first few words together.
I am no more than a clock collector and tinkerer. I am not a trained horologist nor do I have a great talent for clock repair or even getting a simple clock back to working order, but I find the world of horology to be quite fascinating.
It is a relatively new hobby for me which began with the purchase of a Daniel Dakota 2-train wall clock about 3 years ago.
The clock that started my collection, a humble Chinese clock that still ticks today.
Now I know what you are thinking. Why start with a Chinese made clock which most would consider inferior to almost any other clock in the world. Well, it was pretty cheap and it piqued my interest in collecting. From there I moved on to a Ridgeway grandfather clock and to my current collection of Mauthe, Seth Thomas, Hermle, Forestville, Sessions, Smiths Enfield, Muller and Pequegnat clocks.
I intend to profile my clocks both old and newly acquired on this blog and describe my attempts to repair and maintain my modest collection. I might even solicit a little help from my fellow clock enthusiasts.
Some of the nicer things about clock collecting are that is a great conversation starter and it allows me to combine my other passions, photography and traveling. Finding good clocks means traveling around the province of Nova Scotia, meeting interesting people along the way and is some cases getting fabulous deals. All the photos on this site are my own. I will try to capture the beauty of these old mechanical clocks and talk about the pedigree if I can learn anything about the history of any of these clocks..
Stay tuned. It is all a learning experience and as I bravely go further into the hobby I will be able to share my many experiences.
Well, I am still doing what I set out to do, profile my modest collection and pass on the clock repair techniques I have learned to the novice and intermediate clock repairer. Do I know more than I knew then? Sure, isn’t that what learning is all about? I am still tuned in and I hope you are too.
I wasn’t on the lookout for another steeple clock but when I discovered this on a local online for-sale site I just could not pass it up.
Let’s clear something up from the outset. The Hamilton Clock Co in the United States and the Hamilton Watch Co were probably associated with each other in some way but the Hamilton Clock Co. located in Hamilton Ontario, Canada which operated between 1876 and 1880 was not in any way affiliated with the American company.
I bought his Hamilton Clock Co. 30-hour time and strike steeple clock from a local seller. I am sure the seller thought he did well with the sale as he did not budge from the 100CDN he was asking. However, I consider this a win-win situation. We were both pleased because clocks from the Hamilton Clock Co. are sought after by Canadian collectors and this example would easily fetch much more than the price I paid. I was particularly intrigued by the etched tablet with, “Cling to the Cross” a religious phrase that was popular at the time. It is the larger of two versions at 19 ¼”. The Hamilton Clock company made the only true steeple clocks and very few survive.
The 30-hour time and strike movement is appropriately stamped HAMILTON CLOCK CO. HAMILTON ONT. The suspension spring is mounted higher up than a photo I saw on the Canadian Clock Museum site which shows the suspension spring mounted below the hour cannon. There is also a pin through what looks like the intermediate gear on this movement. There had to be some variations over the period the movement was made.
The clock is not without issues, after all, it was made between 1876 and 1880 and some wear and tear is expected for a 140-year-old clock. Everything seems to be there and it is in good shape including the “Cling to the Cross” inscription on the tablet. The etched glass tablet was the result of an association with glass factories in the Hamilton area and unlike anything offered by other companies. There were a whole series of clocks made with similar religious messages.
30-hour time and strike movement with clock company inscription on the bottom of the front plate
The original dial face is faded/worn, the hands are original and the 30-hour movement has the correct pendulum. There are minor veneer losses here and there consisting mostly of chips. The right steeple is also missing its tip.
Veneer chips on the left side of the double-curved base
The label is not complete but is quite readable.
Loss on the clock label
Half the label is missing but enough to clearly identify the clock-maker
A complete label should look like this better example
The clock runs surprisingly well but requires a thorough cleaning and repair work on the time side ratchet click which slips when the arbour is wound. Generally, the clock appears to be in reasonably good shape.
I am always intrigued by clocks made entirely in Canada. The following information is taken from the Canadian Clock Museum located in Deep River Ontario (Canada). A must visit if you are in Canada, love clocks and are especially interested in Canadian makers.
“This company was established in 1876, after the failure of the Canada Clock Company in Whitby, Ontario.
The machinery and other tools and equipment were purchased and moved to Hamilton by two business men, James Simpson and George Lee. Simpson, born in Scotland, had been active in Hamilton for years as a partner in a wholesale grocery business. He assumed the title of President of the clock company. Lee, born in Ireland, was also active in food wholesaling, and the operation of hotels, and restaurants. He became the Business Manager. Neither man had any prior experience with factory operations or clock making.
Technical expertise was provided by John F. Collins, who had previously acted as Manager of the Canada Clock Company in Whitby and had been instrumental in equipping and operating that enterprise. He was brought from Whitby along with the equipment and given the title of Mechanical Superintendent.
Collins utilized tools, dies and designs he had created at Whitby, so the Hamilton company was really a continuation of his previous efforts. He was able to broaden the range of movements and case styles, and hence to offer a more complete line of merchandise. Unfortunately, after a few years, he appears to have fallen out with the new owners and left the company in 1879.
George Lee, in turn, suffered health problems and was obliged to leave around 1880.
This left James Simpson as sole proprietor. He ended production under the name Hamilton Clock Company and proceeded to make major changes. The factory and equipment were retained, but a completely updated product line was developed. Simpson found new investors and incorporated the firm as a public company that was renamed The Canada Clock Company Limited.
The Hamilton Clock Company appears to have made a valiant effort to provide clocks for the Canadian market, in competition with the huge U.S. clock factories that already dominated the market. Hamilton clocks matched competitive products in appearance and their quality was quite adequate. The volume achieved, however, was never very large and the product line was simple and limited. No catalogs or printed material have ever been found from the company and our opinions can only be based on an examination of surviving clocks. Perhaps, like the attempt in Whitby, the available capital and ‘know-how’ were insufficient to ensure a major success.”
There is nothing novel or unusual about Hamilton Clock Co. clocks. They had movements and cases similar to American made clocks but since the production was limited to 4 years, fewer were made, they are rare and therefore more desirable for collectors.
I have always had a fascination with clocks. As a young boy I can remember the schoolhouse clock in my grandparents’ kitchen and the ticking sound it would make that echoed through the entire house.
Seth Thomas Adamantine time and strike mantel clock, circa 1913
We all have busy lives and despite my interest in clocks over the years it was not until the year 2000 that I started building my collection, first with a Seth Thomas Adamantine clock and later with more mantel clocks, wall clocks and finally a grandfather clock in 2012. My collection has expanded to include virtually every style of clock though my interest lies specifically with American and European wall and shelf clocks. As I write there are about 35 clocks ticking away in my home.
In my blog I stress that I am not a trained horologist but have accumulated enough knowledge over the years that I feel capable of addressing general clock issues
Clock repair came a little later. I began with general understanding of the cleaning and oiling of clock movements in order to keep my little collection running. As I acquired clock repair tools and equipment I progressed to servicing pinions, bushings, verge repairs, cleaning of mainsprings and case restoration.
In 2015 I decided to write a blog about collecting and servicing vintage and antique clocks. There are some excellent clock blogs but many are commercial sites or professional horologists selling their services. I decided to design a blog that would appeal to the amateur clock collector/repairer. In my blog I stress that I am not a trained horologist but have accumulated enough knowledge over the years that I feel capable of addressing general clock issues. Therefore, my blog is not aimed at the professional repairer or restoration expert but the individual looking for specific information about a certain clock, those who have a particular problem with their clock and finally those who have a general interest in clock collecting and repair.
Fully restored Junghans time and strike wall clock, circa 1899Time and strike movement on a test stand after servicing
I publish an average of seven blog articles per month on a variety of clock topics. I appeal to a wide change of subjects; some articles have a philosophical perspective, some detail the challenges of working on a specific clock, some present simple repair techniques for the beginner, general maintenance tips as well as articles of general interest. As a history buff I try to include a background history or provenance of the specific clock I am profiling or information about its maker.
A micrometer is used to size a bushing for an escape wheel pivot
Blogging has also allowed me to combine my other interests, that of photography and traveling. My wife and I have had many interesting adventures seeking out unique clocks for my collection.
In the early spring, my wife and I travelled to Portugal and Spain. We attended our daughter’s destination wedding in Sintra, Portugal and we decided to expand our stay, visit Spain and see the sights in Barcelona and Montserrat. Spain has always been on our bucket list and it did not disappoint.
Being a clock enthusiast I did a little research beforehand to find out if there were any clock museums along our travel route. Alas, we travelled to places that were very distant from the well know clock museums. Clocks in Europe were made in specific regions and that is where you will find clock museums. Here are a few clocks that I found in various places in Spain (Barcelona) and Portugal. I will let the photos tell the story.
Tall case clock in a Barcelona cathedralLittle card on the side simply said “High box clock, school clock”, BarcelonaA marriage of movement and case found in a shop in Sintra, PortugalTown clock in downtown Sintra, PortugalA very ornate clock in poor condition, Pena Palace, Sintra, PortugalPena Palace, Sintra, PortugalTivoli Hotel, downtown Sintra. Unknown tall-case clockThe most ornate clock I found is this working example at the Porto basilicaUnknown mantel clock, Tivoli Hotel, Sintra, PortugalUnknown gallery clock. I could not find an opening on this clock. No arbour holes on the clock face. Found on an estate in Sintra, PortugalFlea market clock. Time and strike English or German clock, the 1960sFlea market clock. Time and strike French clock with matching candelabraUsed goods store, time and strike wall clock, possibly French
I was not specifically looking for these clocks but as we visited churches, museums, shops and public places I photographed any I discovered in our travels.
I am not a huge collector of steeple clocks but I was intrigued by one I found in an old barn. I bought 4 clocks as part of a barn find this past winter (2018). Two including this one are salvageable. The two others are for case and works parts only.
$5 for a clock is a real bargain. This antique American Elisha Manross 30 hour time and strike steeple clock is an interesting variant of the sharp Gothic steeple clock. It looks fairly plain today but it was a striking style for its time. The early Steeple clocks of the 1840s influenced the design of later steeple clocks which were produced in large numbers up to the end of the 19th century.
A unique feature is the 30 hour brass movement with 2 brass mainsprings. Brass mainsprings were used in American clocks between 1836 and 1850. When affordable steel mainsprings arrived the brass mainspring disappeared into history. This clock was made in the Elisha Manross factory in Bristol, Connecticut (USA) August of 1843. 30 hour movements are immediately recognizable because of the proximity of the winding holes to the centre cannon. Eight day movements, which are taller, would have much lower winding arbours.
The dial face is in reasonably good shape with some losses on the edges and corners
The good and the bad
The good: the movement, coil gong and dial face are original as is the pendulum bob. The label is in very good condition for the age of the clock. The upper glass tablet is original and shows the waviness you would expect with visible imperfections. The movement works but needs a thorough cleaning. The movement looks good though I will know more once I disassemble it for cleaning.
The bad: the mahogany veneered case is in poor condition with nicks, scratches and gouges on the entire surface. The very tip of the left steeple is broken off. There is a large piece of veneer missing on the right side on the clock base but that piece was found inside the clock and later glued in place. The most critical issue is the missing right steeple and base. The lower tablet is missing. There would have been a Fenn or similar design. Clear glass has been installed in its place. It is also missing the minute hand.
This side piece of veneer was found inside the case glued in place but there is still a small section that needs veneering
Work to be done
My first task is to clean the case and determine how I should approach finishing the clock case. I decided not to strip the case because there is a certain patina I would like to preserve.
My goal is the have a running clock in presentable condition and that includes replacing the right steeple. Ordering the missing parts from a clock supply house would seem to be a simple solution but unfortunately these parts must be hand made. To address the steeple base and spire I had some decisions to make. I took careful measurements of the left steeple base, cut a piece of pine stock to the same dimensions and clad it in crotch mahogany.
Pine cut and test fit for right steeple base
A relatively simple task of veneering took three days as I had to veneer each side, clamp, wait till it dried and trim off the excess before tackling the next side. Hide glue was used for this project. Hide glue is appropriate because it is an organic adhesive and it is the type of glue that would have used at the time.
The steeple base is the middle block of woodSides and top are veneered, now the front
Once all sides were completed the spire was next. I have never made a finial before so this was a very interesting learning experience. The spire was somewhat more challenging since it involved patterning it off the left spire. As I discovered it is much harder than it looks. I do not have a wood lathe so my metal lathe had to do. I bought a set of wood lathe chisels at my local hardware store at a reasonable price though I discovered that they require sharpening prior to use.
Taig lathe with 1/4 hp motor
The result was something closer than I expected. Not perfect but until I improve my skills this will do for now. Working with softwood is relatively easy but working with hardwood would be a much greater challenge would think.
This is the first application of red mahogany stain on the steeple but how to get rid of the distracting wood grain!
The grain in the spire is certainly distracting and it is something I did not anticipate. One more application of stain concealed some of the grain but it is still visible at certain angles. Will a clear coat over the stain bring me the result I am looking for? Hmm!
Second application of red mahogany stain, grain is disappearing
After thoroughly cleaning the case with Murphy’s soap and Orange Oil I applied a very thin coat of red mahogany stain on the entire case, left it on for only one minute and wiped off all the excess residue. Again, my aim was to preserve the original patina as much as possible but hide numerous scratches. The stain filled in the scratches and I am satisfied with the end result. With the addition of the right final base and spire, the clock now looks complete.
Now to address the spire one more time. I decided that Minwax Poly Wipe was not working very well. The clear coat absorbed into the wood after two applications and still left a dull finish. I then selected a clear spar varnish and it finally gave me the results I was looking for.
The screws holding the movement were so loose they had to be replaced with bolts. The coil gong and base were cleaned and stripped of years of rust. I then oiled the movement, put the clock in beat and attached the dial face. The moon hands look good but are not original to the clock. While I have the hour hand the original needle type minute hand is long gone.
The clock is assembled and running
With the cased cleaned and with the addition of the right spire base and steeple the clock now looks presentable. Although I was able to make the spire on a metal lathe it it has certain limitations and I now see the value in using a wood lathe. I am also pleased that the movement is running but at some point it must be cleaned and properly serviced. At the moment there are just too many other projects standing in the way.
A great little project and a test of my veneering and woodworking skills.
Daniel Pratt reverse ogee and splat clock with mirrored tablet
This Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse Ogee shelf clock was made in Reading, Massachusetts, c. 1832-38. It has a splat-top mahogany case with half (?) reverse Ogee moldings flanking the door, painted wooden Roman numeral dial and mirrored lower tablet.
Clocks, manufactured and warranted by Daniel Pratt Jr
The label inside states in part.
Clocks manufactured and warranted by Daniel Pratt Jr. Reading Mass, U.S. Sold in any quantities on reasonable terms
The label is a ink drawing of a clock merchants shop and is printed by Dickinson and Co. 52 Washington St. Boston.
Wooden movement, time and strikeWooden Roman numeral dial with missing grommet on right arbor hole
Daniel Pratt (1797-1871), Jr., clock-maker, banker, town clerk, legislator, lived in the town of Reading, Massachusetts, in the 1800s. Reading is a suburb twelve miles north of Boston. Pratt did not contribute much to clock-making and was regarded as an entrepreneur rather than an innovator. He made wooden movements in his plant, as well as wooden cases. The clocks they sold during the 1832-35 period were typically wooden movement, weight driven, 30 hour, wood-cased, “looking glass” shelf clocks.
This Pratt clock measures 28 inches high, 14 3/4 inches wide, and has a depth of 5 inches. It is covered with mahogany veneer over pine. The square dial is of painted wood, 9 inches wide by 8 1/2 inches tall, with Roman numerals with floral spandrels. The dial is in good condition for the age of the clock. This clock was produced during the heyday of wood movements which were eventually phased out when cheaper but more reliable brass movements were introduced after 1839.
The memory of this successful man is continued by the quiet, even beat of his many clocks which have survived to this day — truly a great honour indeed.
I bought four clocks at an estate auction several weeks ago, this and three other Ogee clocks plus a parlour clock. This clock is no less interesting than the others but I was lucky enough to research its maker and date it fairly accurately. I wish I knew its provenance but nevertheless it is an excellent example and has been well cared for over the years.
It is a Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee weight driven time and strike clock. No-one can deny that Chauncey Jerome had made a historic contribution to the American clock industry in the 18th century when he substituted brass works for wooden works and was said to be “the greatest and most far-reaching contributor to the clock industry.” Although he made a fortune selling his clocks, and his business grew quickly his company failed in 1856.
Chauncey Jerome one-day movement type 1.314
The number 11 Ogee was the last of the Jerome clocks made in 1855. Mike Bailey, a Chauncey Jerome clock collector has an excellent blog in which he meticulously details and dates Jerome cases and movements. After researching his site I was able to determine that my clock is a number 11 Ogee made just before the Jerome bankruptcy, 1855. It has the Jerome patent 30 hour brass movement number 1.314 which is likely original to the case.
Type 1.314 movement, very dirty
There were some issues with the movement as you would expect from a 156 year old clock. There were a number of punch marks here and there, but specifically on the first wheel and the second wheel time side. The movement had years of dirt. The repairs over the years are typical for this type of clock. Punching to close pivot holes would have been the preferred approach to repairing a worn clock. With the advent of the modern bushing machine repairs are much simpler.
Eight bushings were installed. The first wheel strike side, the second wheel strike side plus the fly, the lower gear off the centre cannon, rear plate and 3 bushings on the time side.
Punch marks on first wheel, strike side
A piece came off the wood support for the movement when I disassembled the movement. Dry-rot perhaps. I had leftover hide glue from a previous project, applied the glue and clamped it for 24 hours.
Broken movement support
The retainer clip for the count wheel was riveted in placed and prevented me from taking it apart.
Retainer clip for count wheel riveted in place, not nice!
Some were punched very close to the pivot hole as you can see in this next photo. I left that as-is and decided to take a second look in a year or two.
Looks like a large pivot hole but actually punched very close to the hole
After eight bushings were installed (4 in the front and 2 in the rear) and an ultrasonic cleaning, the parts are test fit to check the smooth running of the gears. The rope for the weights looked re-usable, they were not replaced. The suspension spring also looked to be in good shape. The crutch wire has had bending and twisting over the years but it was also re-usable.
Test fitting parts after cleaning30 hour movement servicing, oiled, movement in the caseC Jerome 30 hour movement testing in the case
Now to regulate the movement. The clock is ticking away nicely and in beat. There are always challenges setting the strike side and this movement is no exception. However, through trial and error the strike side is functioning as it should.
These are very simple clocks to service and a great movement to hone your clock repair skills.
This is a fine example of a Seth Thomas column and cornice clock with sleigh front made prior to 1867 and sold by the R.W. Paterson Company of Canada West. Both the lower and upper tablets appear to be original and are in very good condition. Unfortunately this antique American column and cornice time and strike Seth Thomas clock is not mine and if it were I would proudly display it.
My clock, though similar is missing its upper tablet and a few other items that I wish to address in stages.
Missing upper tablet on an American Seth Thomas clock
This blog article concerns one aspect of the clock, it upper and lower tablets. The lower tablet appears to be original and shows a cluster of fruit. Not as stately or ornate as the one in the first photo but quite appropriate for this style of clock. A quick online search shows that there were an endless number of reverse tablet painting designs ranging from birds, flowers, pastoral scenes, stately structures, eagles, parrots, berries, flags, drapery, crests and the list goes on.
Because there is a missing top tablet, the clock does not look complete. The clear glass is certainly not correct. As is typical for most clocks this age, things go missing over the years.
To address the missing upper tablet there are a number of options to consider;
Do nothing,
Attempt to find a decent quality reverse painted set from the same period,
Try my hand at painting a new tablet,
Buy a photo reproduction set online
Find a complimentary design and reproduce it on my home photo printer.
Finding a decent quality reverse painted set from that era is quite difficult and a search would take a long time. I am no artist, so, painting a tablet is out of the question. Buying a reproduction set online is a possibility but how much am I prepared to spend on something I could potentially do myself. After analyzing the options my first thought was to explore the possibility of buying a reproduction set online.
A search on EBay revealed sellers who make reproductions of the original tablets. They are essentially a “replacement picture set” of the clock tablets. They are as one ad put, “Exact copies of a set of Seth Thomas 8 day “Column” model sleigh front clock ca. 1880. They are printed on photo stock and mounted on mat-board that when put behind antique glass they are very hard to tell from the original and make a Seth Thomas column clock with plain or damaged pictures into a super looking clock.” I have seen them offered from 15USD to 45USD + shipping.
Hmm, I can do this myself!
Following a search of my photo collection I found a cluster of hanging fruit that complimented the lower tablet. Using PaintShopPro X6 by Corel I chose a water-colour effect, removed some fruit, changed the orientation of the image, adjusted the back lighting to match the tone of the lower tablet, cloned the deleted areas and darkened the stem and black-berries.
The first photo shows the source photo converted to a water-colour. The next shows the adjustments made to the “water-colour”. The third shows my first attempt without back-light darkening.
Using my wide carriage Epson Stylus 1400, here is my first attempt.
First attempt, a little brighter than what I was looking for but close
Colour-matching the lower tablet is a real challenge. More adjustments are required to get the right effect but I think I am on the right track.
If you have any suggestions on how I can improve my workflow I would love to hear from you.
I acquired four old clocks in a barn find. Two, a 30 hour Ogee and a mantel clock were totally unsalvageable although I managed to take off some veneer, case parts, a movement, boards, case hardware and a few other items.
Elisha Manross 30 hour steeple clock
Two others were worth a second look. One is an Elisha Manross 30 hour Gothic steeple clock that is worth restoring and the other, an Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock, the subject of this article.
There are a number of variations of the Ansonia Drop Extras and the one most sought after is the time, strike and calendar version. This is merely a time-only version and would fetch a price in the lower end of the range.
The largely intact label says,
Eight-day and thirty hour brass clocks, pendulum clocks, a variety of……., Also sole manufacturers of Jeweled Marines and eight-day gilt time pieces, Ansonia Brass and Copper….Ansonia Conn.
This clock was manufactured by the Ansonia Brass & Copper Co. around 1880. It is 26 inches high, 16 inches wide and 5 inches deep. It has a 16 inch round wood door bezel on a large 2 inch hinge. The drop section has serpentine sides and teardrop finials. The bottom access drop door opens downwards. Other Drop Extra access doors open to the side.
Much has been written about the Ansonia clock company. The company history can be found here. Formed in 1844, the Ansonia Clock Company went into receivership just before the stock market crash in 1929. The machinery and dies were sold to a Russian Company in 1931 thus ending the long reign of a glorious American clock manufacturer.
The Lima (Ohio) News gave this account in a March 12, 1931 news report:
“…there came an order to supply the Soviet union with men and machines to make watches and clocks, neither of which products ever had been manufactured there. Representatives of Amtorg went to the Ansonia Clock Company in Brooklyn and to the Duber Hampden Watch Company of Canton, Ohio, and bought them lock, stock and barrel. Then they hired most of the skilled employees of the plants to go to Russia and operate the familiar machines. These have been installed in a new, many-windowed building in Moscow, where Russian apprentices are beginning to master the trade.”
The time-only movement appears unusual because of the oversize 2nd and 3rd wheels. The dial glass is original as is the painted dial which is 11 1/2 inches wide. The painted zinc dial has black Roman numerals, is flaked in some areas and requires stabilization. The flaking dial could use some work if only to arrest the deterioration of the finish. In the meantime the numerals have been touched up with black metal paint.
Ansonia Extra short drop wall clockSeized time-only movement
The clock is in generally poor shape, what I would consider a diamond in the rough. A challenging project? Yes, because there are so many missing parts. Missing are the brass dial bezel, clock hands, pendulum bob, verge, drop access door with its hardware, right tear drop finial and 3 hinges. The finish is completely gone, down to the bare veneer. The veneer has some minor losses that are in hidden from view but for the most part the case is in good condition.
The movement was rusty and the wheels were seized. Obviously the clock had not been running in a number of years. After applying some WD-40 I managed to free the gears. In addition, two bent wheels (2nd and 3rd) had to be straightened. The rust was removed and the movement cleaned up surprisingly well. Only one bushing was required on the escape wheel bridge. The movement is presently installed in the clock and running well with the addition of a new verge, pendulum rod and bob.
There is nothing special about bringing the veneer back to life. After a thorough cleaning with Murphy’s soap I applied three coats of shellac lightly sanding after each coat. The photo shows the clock after the third application of shellac.
Ansonia backboard with partial label & movement mount blocks
A section on the right side of the backboard was missing. I salvaged a piece of board from a donor Waterbury Ogee from about the same period and traced a pattern to fit the missing piece. Replacing the entire backboard might have been an option but I felt it necessary to preserve most of the label. Hide glue was used to bond the two boards which were then clamped for 24 hours. The gaps were filled with a combination of hide glue and sawdust one day later.
Ansonia movement running and installed in the case
Unfortunately, this is as far as I can go with this project. Unless the previous owner finds the missing pieces which is doubtful or I find another clock to marry the two together this clock will simply be a curiosity on a wall. In the meantime I have contacted some clock suppliers and have had no luck so far. My inquiries on clock oriented social media sites have also produced no results.
Rosewood veneered dial bezel in position
The movement has been running reliably for a full 8-day cycle and has run for the past 4 weeks. Despite not having the parts I require to complete the project there is a certain satisfaction in making a clock run that has not run in years.
Antique and vintage clocks evoke a time when life was simpler than the hectic times we live in today. Those nostalgic times when the things we bought and cherished were living memories of people and places that are gone but not forgotten. Antique clocks should be passed down from one generation to the next. Judging from the online marketplaces unfortunately many are not handed from father to son at all as so many have left their original owners. Is sentimentality lost on this generation?
Two such clocks have a story
Not including the the nine clocks I have in my home office there are 35 clocks displayed throughout our home. It saddens me to think that for many of my clocks I know absolutely nothing about them though I wish they all could talk. What stories they could tell.
Two such clocks have a story.
One of my clocks survived the Halifax Explosion in 1917. I know this because the people I bought it from had the clock in their family for over 100 years. It was certainly not in the condition you see here. It was a box of parts and I imagine they felt they had held onto it long enough and it was time to let it go. After I restored the clock I called back the previous owner and told him what I had done with the clock and would I kindly send him a photo of it restored to its former glory. I did and heard nothing afterwards. Sellers remorse, perhaps. I often look at the clock and try to imagine that fateful day when it fell of the wall in a modest home in North Halifax on December 6, 1917.
Junghans Crispi wall clock
Story number two. You have to feel something for some of the previous owners. This Ingraham Huron shelf clock (circa 1878) is a real gem and fairly rare, you just do not see it come up for sale very often. Some would call it a balloon clock. It was bought in a little village outside Bridgewater, Nova Scotia. My wife and I are about 2 hours away and we decided to make a trip out of getting the clock, having lunch nearby and doing a little shopping.
Do you know anyone who wants Jeff Gordon memorabilia?
Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site
We arrived at the sellers home, a modest nondescript bungalow. I was greeted at the door by an elderly couple. They had previously told me on the phone a day earlier that after consultation with their son they had decided on a fixed price for the clock and the price seemed very fair to us.
I asked how long they had the clock and the gentlemen who I would say was in his early seventies said that he could remember the clock in this grandmother’s home when he was quite young. He extended his hand palm down to about a meter from the floor and said, “I was this tall when I can first remember it in my grandmother’s home”. After a conversation with the couple I had discovered that they were parting ways, an amicable separation it seemed and the wife had decided to live in an apartment minutes away in Bridgewater. The husband was left with the home and his workshop in the back of the property. “He spends a lot of time out there anyway and besides, we need to get rid of stuff”. “Do you know anyone who wants Jeff Gordon memorabilia?” “No”, I said and left with the clock. It is sad that they had to part with such a memory but people change.
Seth Thomas column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike shelf clock
I guess sentimentality has a dollar value or people live with things so long that they eventually tire of having them. Deciding to get rid of things is about relieving yourself of all the stuff you’re hanging onto from past relationships and past memories. Secondly, our desire to hold onto piles and piles of old mementos can often be blamed on nostalgia. That’s because reminiscing about the past makes us feel good. It can lead to increased feelings of familial or social connectedness. If I have an old clock, looking at it can elicit positive emotions. Or, perhaps it was not an especially happy memory and getting rid of it expunges that memory.
I often wonder what will happen to my collection when I meet my fellow clock-makers in the sky. My wife knows that I have no real attachment to some of my clocks since I merely purchased them to learn how to repair them and to grow my hobby. Yes, you can have too many mantel clocks!
However, there are about ten clocks in my collection that I hope will be passed down to my kids. My four Arthur Pequegnats, two Vienna regulators, a Seth Thomas Empire style clock, my Sessions Beveled No. 2, my Ingraham Huron shelf clock and my Junghans Crispi wall clock. For some I appreciate their history and admire the folks who had them and for others they have become sentimental attachments because I spent so much time restoring them.
I bought four wonderful clocks at an estate auction several weeks ago, this and three other Ogee clocks plus a parlour clock. This clock is no less interesting than the other three but I was lucky enough to research its maker and date the manufacture to within a year or two.
Noble Jerome’s invention showed that with the one-day brass movement, clocks could be mass produced economically and in great quantities
I wish I knew its provenance, how many hands it passed through, where it has been, what homes it has been in and even its last owner. All that is a mystery to me, nonetheless this clock is an excellent example of the classic Ogee weight driven shelf clock and a well-cared-for time-keeper.
Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee clock with J.C. Brown house in lower tablet
Chauncey Jerome: The greatest and most far-reaching contributor to the clock industry
Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee weight driven time and strike clocks are not a rarity. Thousands upon thousands were made. However, no-one can deny Chauncey Jerome’s historic contribution to the American clock industry in the 18th century when he substituted brass works for wooden works. He was “the greatest and most far-reaching contributor to the clock industry.” Although he made his fortune selling his clocks and his business grew quickly his company eventually failed in 1856.
Chauncey Jerome (1793–1868) was one of many pioneer American clock-makers. Jerome began his career in Waterbury, Connecticut (USA), making dials for long-case clocks. Jerome learned what he could about clocks, particularly clock cases, and went to New Jersey to make seven-foot cases for clocks. In 1816 he went to work for Eli Terry making “Patent Shelf Clocks,” and learned how to make previously handmade cases using machinery. His venture into business for himself eventually led to making cases and trading them to Terry for wooden movements.
In 1822 Jerome moved his business to Bristol, Connecticut opening a small shop with his brother Noble, producing 30-hour and eight-day wooden clocks. By 1837 Jerome’s company was selling more clocks than any of his competitors. A one-day wood-cased clock with wood movement sold for six dollars and had helped put the company on the map. A year later his company was selling that same clock for four dollars. As profits began falling combined with a general malaise in the manufacturing sector, it was not long before Noble Jerome’s patented clockwork innovation, the 30 hour brass weight driven movement introduced in 1839 changed clock making in America. The design was proposed by Chauncey in response to the 1837 nationwide depression that closed many clock factories. Noble’s invention showed that with the one-day brass movement, clocks could be mass produced economically and in great quantities.
Jerome also made clocks according to what he termed the “systematic approach” where selected workers made one part of a clock while other workers simultaneously constructed other parts in the same factory, a precursor to the assembly line method of manufacture.
Coil gong, polished, incorrect position in this photo
In 1842 Jerome moved his clock-case manufacturing operation to St. John Street in New Haven, Connecticut. Three years later, following a fire that destroyed the Bristol plant, Jerome relocated the entire operation to Elm City. Enlarging the plant, the company soon became the largest industrial employer in the city, producing 150,000 clocks annually. In 1850 Jerome formed the Jerome Manufacturing Co. as a joint-stock company with Benedict & Burnham, brass manufacturers of Waterbury. In 1853 the company became known as the New Haven Clock Co., producing 444,000 clocks and timepieces annually. Jerome’s future should have been secure but in 1855 he bought out a failed Bridgeport clock company controlled by P.T. Barnum, (a good read, it is a very tangled story) which wiped him out financially, leaving the Jerome Manufacturing Co. bankrupt in 1856. Jerome never recovered from the loss. By his own admission, he was a better innovator and inventor than a businessman.
In the years following he traveled from town to town and took jobs where he could, often working for clock companies that had learned the business of clock making using Jerome’s inventions. Returning to New Haven near the end of his life, he died, penniless, in 1868 at age 74.
The ticking of a clock is music to me, and although many of my experiences as a business man have been trying and bitter, I have satisfaction of knowing that I have lived the life of an honest man, and have been of some use to my fellow men
Chauncey Jerome 1860
This the number 11 Ogee was the last of the Jerome clocks made no later than the fall of 1855 when Jerome Manufacturing Co. failed. Mike Bailey, a Chauncey Jerome clock collector has an excellent blog in which he meticulously details and dates Jerome cases and movements. After researching his site I was able to determine that my clock is a number 11 Ogee made just before the Jerome bankruptcy in 1855. It is the Jerome patent 30 hour brass movement number 1.314. The movement appears to be original to the case.
Chauncey Jerome one-day movement type 1.314, yes, very dirty
The clock has a zinc dial and an image of JC Brown’s house in the lower tablet. Jerome was the first to introduce the zinc dial. It might have originally had a mirrored lower tablet. However it now features the JC Brown’s home. The J.C. Brown home in Forestville was featured on the tablet of many of his (Brown) Ogee clocks and it is unclear why it is on this clock. From 1847-1855 Brown conducted business without partners as the Forestville Manufacturing Company or the Forestville Clock Manufactory.
Rear of zinc dial
On the back of the zinc dial are inscriptions that I can barely make out. It says 1860 April 9??? on the top of the dial and 1866, Feb 2 and UPO 477 on the bottom. I tried to enhance it as best I could. Could this dial be a later replacement?
Overall the veneer is in excellent condition though it has been covered at some point with a clear coat of varnish. The weights appear original with the strike side having the slightly lighter weight as one would expect. The pendulum bob is consistent with the age of the clock and the label is largely intact. This was the last label Jerome used before his company went bankrupt.
Label showing Benham Printer, 55 Orange Street, New Haven at bottom center
The movement is not running reliably. It is very dirty and long overdue for a cleaning, plus, the movement has had some poor repairs over the years.
Much of the information for this post is from Chauncey Jerome’s autobiography entitled History of the American Clock Business for the Past 60 Years, a free copy which you can find here.
Next up is servicing the movement which I will cover in a separate post.
This is Part III and the final part of a three part series on my first venture into veneer repair on an antique clock. Prior to beginning this project I spent many hours researching veneer repair, watching YouTube videos and seeking advice from my knowledgeable colleagues at NAWCC.
A recent acquisition, this is an 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice time and strike shelf clock with sleigh front. It has a Plymouth (Hollow) lyre movement with a Thomaston Conn. label which means that the clock was made shortly before the incorporation of Thomaston in the early 1870s.
ST column and cornice, as foundAn example of veneer loss
I assessed this clock in Part I and described the steps in preparation for the veneer repair. In Part II I described the process of applying veneer. Part III concerns the final finishing. Once the case work is complete I will focus my attention on servicing the movement, addressing the dial issues and replacing the clear glass with a floral pattern in the upper tablet.
The lighter coloured sections in the next photo are new veneer pieces. New veneer is found on the top of the cornice, the left cornice base, the right column support and sections of the bottom base.
Veneer repairs (light areas) are complete
Finishing is the final phase of this project. In many respects this can be the most challenging phase of the project because once the hard work of applying veneer is complete the job means nothing if the new veneer does not match the old veneer. Although it can never be a perfect match the goal is to come as close as possible.
One finish seemed to stand out above the others
I conducted an experiment on leftover Brazilian Rosewood.
I selected three stains/finishes, Minwax Rosewood gel stain, Wipe-On Polyurethane satin clear coat and yellow shellac. I utilized various light sources to see the effect colour temperature had on the results and came to the conclusion that there was one finish that seemed to stand out above the others.
In the photo below there are three swatches on a piece of leftover veneer; Rosewood gel stain on the left, Wipe-On Polyurethane in the middle and on the right is yellow Shellac. Wipe-On Poly initially struck me as the best of the three; it is subtle while bringing out the character of the Brazilian Rosewood veneer while keeping that “aged” look but it is too muted. Rosewood gel is reddish and quite dark and looked very striking compared to the original Rosewood.
I concluded that yellow shellac was the best choice. Shellac darkens the veneer and accentuates the red tones nicely. Shellac would have been been the original finish when the clock was made and it is still the finish of choice today.
Comparing the three stains
Although veneering is a challenge, it is very rewarding work and I eagerly await my next project
New veneer above cornice. The base of right cornice is original though it looks newerAfter two coats of shellacAfter three coats of shellac, the case is completeWith dial and doors re-attached, movement is out of the case at this stage
Although veneering is a challenge, it is very rewarding work and I eagerly awaiting my next veneering project.
Lyre movement serviced and oiled
With the veneer repairs completed and the movement serviced there is still work to be done on this clock. I have decided that the gesso columns will stay as-is. Next is perfecting a tablet design for the access door to replace the clear glass, and finally, making a decision regarding the dial face; whether to leave as-is, find a suitable replacement or buy a new one from a clock supplier.
Seth Thomas column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike shelf clock
Lessons learned:
Allot a significant portion of time for the project, it is time-consuming and meticulous.
For an authentic repair hide glue must be used; avoid white or yellow carpenters glue though I would think there are rare times when it would be considered.
Hide glue:
must be a certain consistency to work properly. It should drip off the brush like honey. My hide glue was too thin at the start of the project.
will last a while in the fridge. Don’t cap the glue while it cools; condensation will hasten mold growth
Stay away from plastic based modern stains and finishes and go with shellac or any finish that would have been used at the time.
Some use filler to smooth the gaps between pieces of veneer, I did not use filler for this project; it is something I might consider next time.
A light sanding of the veneer is all you need, aggressive sanding will destroy the veneer (lesson learned).
Apply painters tape on the veneer before cutting; doing so eliminates ripping and tearing.
Use a sharp hobby knife
In future I would consider replacing larger sections rather than a patchwork of small pieces though that largely depends on how much veneer you have to work with.
Clamps are essential. Get various sizes of clamps and use wax paper between the clamp and the veneer, you will thank me!
Leave the area clamped for 24 hours. Although hide glue bonds quickly clamping for a day will ensure maximum adhesion.
This was a great project and I am confident that my next veneer project will be even better. Time, patience and perseverance are keys to a successful veneering project.
This is Part II of a three part series on my first venture into veneer repair on an antique clock. Prior to beginning this project I spent many hours researching veneer repair, watching YouTube videos and seeking advice from my knowledgeable colleagues at NAWCC.
This is an 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice time and strike shelf clock with sleigh front. It has a Plymouth Lyre movement with a Thomaston Conn. label. The clock was made in the early 1870s.
Part I explores the steps in preparation for veneer repair.
The focus of this, Part II, is the selection of the correct veneer, working with hide glue, as well as cutting, applying and trimming the veneer.
Although one is tempted to use readily available yellow or white carpenters glue the only authentic product to use is hide glue
The veneer
I am not an expert in wood finishes and determining the type of veneer was my first major task. To do this I had to rely on expertise to tell me that I had Rosewood veneer. Once I discovered the type of veneer, I had to determine the quantity and the specific repairs that are required for this clock. My research revealed that the veneer used at the time was Brazilian Rosewood. An exotic wood, Rosewood would have been used extensively by clock-makers of that era and it is the correct veneer for this project. A clock friend (thanks JC) sent me two 7 X 8 inch pieces of Rosewood veneer, more than enough for the job.
The very worst sections were the top and bottom of the case and the column bases as one would expect given wear and tear over the years. Most of the cornice veneer is in good shape as are the door sections, door surrounds and the sleighs just above the feet.
Hide glue
One is tempted to use readily available yellow or white carpenters glue but the only authentic adhesive for clock case applications is hide glue. Hide glue is the glue of choice and it would have been utilized at the time the clock was manufactured. I chose pearl hide glue which is a type of hide glue rated at 150g Bloom strength. It takes takes a little longer to gel and with the longer working time it is better for applications like this when you need time to fit, but where high strength is not absolutely essential.
If you have never worked with hide glue, it is best to start with a small batch. My first batch was larger than I needed and too thin. Simply put 2 tablespoons (30ml) of glue in a heat-resistant glass container, cover with 1 tablespoons (15ml) of cold water and let soak for about an hour or until the glue softens and becomes gelatinous. Less is more and I recommend making small quantities. For about 20CDN you can buy a supply that will last a long time.
Place the container with the gelatinous glue in a bath of water in a pot especially designed for hide glue or a double boiler which I found worked just as well. Heat to approximately 140°F (60°C) and maintain the temperature. A candy thermometer is ideal to keep the glue at an even temperature.
Home-made double boiler with temperature maintained on a hot plate
Tools
Clamps, weights, tweezers, wax paper, a sharp knife, a metal straight-edge, painter’s tape, a micrometer, sand paper, palm sander and whatever you choose to use as a double boiler complete the list of tools.
A micrometer is an indispensable tool for accurate measurements. Accurate measurements ensure a good fit, minimize the use of fillers and lessen waste.
A micrometer ensures an accurate cut
Cutting, trimming & clamping
Cutting veneer can be tricky. Veneer is thin, brittle and can easily tear. Veneer today is different than veneer used 100+ years ago, it is very thin. On some clocks you may need to double-up, that is layer the veneer to approach the height of the original veneer.
Cutting can be a challenge since you must follow the grain and those narrow strips can break very easily. Painters tape is a true friend since it prevents tearing and it is easily removed from the veneer prior to application.
Painters tape ensure a rip free cutPainters tape easily peels off
You will never have enough clamps
I chose to work one area at a time moving from the bottom of the case to the top. The next photos shows veneer sections glued and clamped into place. Clamps are essential for veneer repair but when clamps do not work other methods such as weights can be employed. You will never have enough clamps! Although a clamp need only be in place for a few hours, having it on for a 24 hours is best for maximum adhesion.
Clamping cornice veneerDoor piece and corner base piece is clamped
The upper left cornice presented a unique challenge. A section was missing just above the cornice. Fashioned out of softwood it was glued in place.
A piece of pine was cut to fitStrip of veneer glued in place; prior to trimming and sanding
In this photo the piece for the curved part of the veneer is applied. The top area of the front cornice is now ready for staining and finishing.
Small angular cornice piece on left is glued in placeTop section is almost complete except for a left side cornice section (not visible in this shot)
As with any other project there will always be a slight colour variance as one would expect over the course of a century or more but the goal is to come as close to the original finish as possible
As mentioned the worst areas were the very top and very bottom of the case, expected after years of wear and tear. Another area which had veneer loss were the column bases. When possible I used old veneer to repair small areas but I found it very brittle and hard to work with. From my research I discovered that there are methods of softening old veneer but that can wait until the next project.
Right column base, prior to sanding and trimming
After many hours the veneer work is now complete The next step is colour matching the new to the existing veneer. As you can see in the following photo the chip held by green tape shows that Rosewood Minwax Gel stain is a close match to the older veneer. My experimentation did not end. Part III explores other finishing options.
As with any other project such as this there will always be a slight colour variance as one would expect over the course of a century or more. The goal is to be as close as possible to the original finish.
Colour matching test: the green tape is holding a chip that has one coat of Rosewood stain
Now that the veneer work has been applied the next and final stage is finishing. Stay tuned for Part III in a few days time.
This is Part I of a three part series on my first venture with veneer repair on an antique clock. Prior to beginning this project I spent many hours researching veneer repair, watching YouTube videos and seeking advice from my knowledgeable colleagues at NAWCC.
Repairing veneer on a clock case is inevitable. As much as I love old clocks I will eventually purchase clocks that need a little TLC in the case department. This is that day. Collecting and repairing clocks is not only about cleaning and servicing the movement but the care and repair of clock cases. Aesthetics are equally important in clock work. A clock not only must run as it should but it must be appealing as well. Many of the clocks in my collection are in excellent condition and have required very little case restoration, nothing more than a touch up here and there. I have avoided clocks that need too much work. For example this 30-hour Waterbury Ogee required extensive movement repairs but the clock case was in exceptional condition.
The veneer on this Waterbury 30 hour Ogee is in excellent condition
The Seth Thomas case is in generally poor shape, has some crude repairs along with many corner chips and missing veneer sections here and there
One of my latest clocks offered me my first opportunity to learn the art of veneering. I really wanted this 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice time and strike shelf clock and I was willing to overlook the veneer issues.
The clock is from the American Empire period which defined the early and mid nineteenth century design movement in American architecture. It has a Plymouth lyre movement with a Thomaston Conn. label. It has the two original 8.5 lb weights and pendulum bob. The lower tablet is original but the upper tablet which would have had a complimentary design is missing and replaced by clear glass. The dial is original having been introduced in the late Plymouth Hollow era circa 1862 up to about 1879 according to this site. The clock was made between 1875 when Thomaston was incorporated to 1879.
The case was intact save for one trim missing piece on the top section of the left cornice. There have been a number of crude repairs over the years which made the restoration somewhat frustrating but the veneer work was certainly within the limits of my capabilities.
Seth Thomas 8-day column and cornice with sleigh feetPlymouth ST 8-day lyre movementCornice trim piece made from pineNew pine piece replaces missing section
The case is in relatively good shape but has some crude repairs along with many corner chips, missing veneer pieces here and there over the entire case save for most of the front cornice veneer and the sleighs which have stood up very well. The gesso columns have some finish loss but they will be left as is. The dial face has loss on the corners, barely visible floral designs on each corner, loss around the chapter ring and a large area of missing paint on the lower left bottom. There are three options for the dial face; a replacement dial, a repaint or leave as-is though this is a decision to be made at a future date. The clock did not come with hands but I have a spare set of Ogee hands that are appropriate for this clock.
Structurally the case is sound with no loose or moving parts save for a left side cornice which has let go and held on loosely by a small screw. The back panel looks secure though Robertson screws were used to re-attach it, a later repair since Robertson screws were not invented until 1908.
Dial in generally poor conditionLoss of veneer on the corniceAnother view of the same cornice showing a poor attempt at a repair
The photos show that a previous owner tried unsuccessfully to hide the damaged veneer by applying a “matching” paint. I found wood filler beneath the paint which was used to raise the painted area to the level of the veneer. An appalling attempt at a repair.
Chipped veneer below sleigh footCloser view of left foot with veneer chipped off
The bottom left foot had corner veneer damage as one would expect after years of wear and abuse. On the left edge of the foot you can see the same dark paint used to hide the cornice damage.
Having reviewed the work to be done it is now time to move to the next step in the restoration of this clock case.
The art of veneering is a steep learning curve
The art of veneering is a steep learning curve. Part of that requires acquiring new skill-sets and acquiring an understanding of protein adhesives and finishes.
Part II, in one weeks time, will describe the steps in the application of veneer, trimming and sanding. Part III will detail the final finishing.
Canadian clock collectors are passionate about Arthur Pequegnat clocks. In private sales and online for-sale sites most sellers are knowledgeable enough to know that they are very desirable. A Pequegnat will sell for many times more than a comparable mantel clock, that is, in Canada.
Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe model mantel clock
The Arthur Pequegnat clock company had an illustrious albeit short history
The Simcoe is my fourth Arthur Pequegnat clock. It is very similar in dimensions and style to the Jewel. Whereas the Jewel is basically a unadorned box the Simcoe has a piecrust dial bezel, claw feet on each corner and lions head handles on each side. It has a coil gong for the hour strike and a bell for the half-hour passing strike.
To collectors it is referred to as a”Berlin” clock. Although it is impossible to date Pequegnat clocks precisely the name Berlin distinguishes clocks made before 1917 and those made after and up to 1941 when the factory finally shut its doors. Clocks made prior to 1917 were inscribed “Berlin”, Ontario on the dial face since Kitchener was known as Berlin until midway through World War I. From 1854 until 1912 it was the town of Berlin and City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916. Because the name Berlin had a negative association with the war against Germany the city administration chose the name Kitchener. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario (Canada).
Time and strike movement with steel plates, a common feature with Pequegnat clocks
The Arthur Pequegnat clock company had an illustrious albeit short history. Arthur Pequegnat, a watchmaker by training, was born in Switzerland in 1851. Arthur immigrated to Berlin, Ontario Canada in 1874 with his wife, parents, brothers and sisters; a grand total of 18 family members.
Arthur Pequegnat clocks such as a simple mantel clock you see here can command hundred of dollars in Canada
By the late 1870’s Arthur was operating a jewelry store and watch repair in Southern Ontario. By the middle 1880’s Arthur and his brother Paul were operating a shop in Berlin, Ontario. After ten years the brothers went their separate ways, both operating successful jewelry shops in Southern Ontario.
In 1897 Arthur expanded his Berlin jewelry shop to include the manufacture of Bicycles. However, by 1904, with the decrease in the demand for Bicycles, Arthur began to re-focus on the clock industry, by manufacturing his own clock movements at his Berlin Bicycle Manufacturing plant. Arthur obviously visualized a profit in clock making as many clocks at the time were imported from the United States. At first the wooden clock cases were made by local furniture makers, however in time he manufactured his own clock cases. Although the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company was widely regarded as the only true Canadian clock company, lesser known companies such as the Hamilton Clock Company and the Canada Clock Company, though not as successful, predated it.
The Simcoe is a relatively nondescript clock. I passed by it in the antique store without realizing that it was a Pequegnat. My wife spotted it and I returned to take a second look. Sure enough, a Pequegnat!
The yellow oak case is in very good condition with one or two small scratches and a chip just above the top of the bezel. The dial pan has had an ugly repair, there are two brass tabs at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock protruding though the front of the dial.
Piecrust bezel
The dial face has some crackling but is otherwise in good condition. The piecrust bezel is in very nice shape as are the claw feet and lions heads.
Lions head on case side
The movement looks very clean with little evidence of wear. There is an inscription on the back dated Jan 10, 1970. It was likely serviced on that date. In any event it does not appear to have had much running since then. Unfortunately, there is no label.
Ornate front feet
The movement was taken out of its case, inspected for wear and found to be in very good condition. The movement was oiled, returned it to its case, the beat was set and it is running strongly. The clock will be inspected in one years time to determine if servicing is required.
Clocks have been more than just timekeepers throughout history; they are reflections of art, culture, and technological innovation. Whether for practical use or decorative appeal, clock styles have evolved to match the tastes, craftsmanship, and technologies of their times. Here’s a look at some of the most iconic and varied clock styles.
The clock is an instrument designed to keep and indicate time. It is one of the oldest human inventions. The clock has evolved through the ages from sundials in ancient times to early tower clocks of the 14th century weight-driven clocks and finally spring-driven clocks from the 1840s to the 1970s.
The world of mechanical clocks encompasses a wide variety of styles, and distinguishing between them can often be confusing—such as understanding the difference between a shelf clock and a mantel clock. In this article, I’ll navigate through these terms and highlight the most common styles or types, using examples from my own clock collection to illustrate them.
Mantel Clock
Many auction sites and even professional websites use the word mantle. The correct terminology is “mantel”. A mantle is a shawl or coat worn by women, an important role passed on from one person to another or the earth’s crust. A mantel is the top framing of a fireplace or a shelf above a fireplace opening.
A mantel clock is designed to fit on top of a fireplace or shelf. A mantel clock can be time only, time and strike, or a chiming clock. Generally, if there are 2 winding arbours it is a time and strike clock, if the clock has 3 winding arbours is it a chiming clock that is, it will play a tune on the quarter hours, the most common being the Westminster chime.
Mantel clocks might also be referred to as shelf clocks or buffet clocks.
Kitchen Clock
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock
Kitchen clocks are often referred to as gingerbread clocks or parlour clocks. At times, it can be difficult to differentiate between a kitchen clock and a parlour clock. Gingerbread clocks are distinctive because their designs are typically created by steam-pressing the wooden front face. However, some clocks, like the one above, are made using a powered cutting saw but are still classified as kitchen clocks. Additionally, some of these clocks included alarm mechanisms. The terms gingerbread, kitchen, and parlour are often used interchangeably.
Another type of kitchen clock is shown below. This is an 8-day time-only delft wall clock made by Forestville.
Delft Clock from ForestvilleE. N. Welch Whittier model
A parlour clock is generally considered more ornate than a kitchen clock, although it may still be referred to as a kitchen clock. It is placed in front hallways, entryways, and so on. The designs are always cut and there may be finials, a mercury-filled pendulum or very ornate design, garish trim pieces, and a decorative tablet.
Vienna Regulator
Gustav Becker two-weight Vienna regulator
There are many styles but most are of the single-weight or two-weight variety. The definition of a Vienna regulator is always open to debate but the consensus among collectors is that they are weight-driven, made in Austria/Germany, ornate in design, have porcelain dials, decorative crowns, large pendulums, and finials on the top and bottom.
The broad definition of Vienna Regulator includes those that are spring-driven. Though not defined as “regulators” it is acceptable among collectors to refer to them as a Vienna style.
Cottage Clock
Canada Clock Co Hamilton Cottage Extra
Sometimes called a mantel clock or a shelf clock, they are usually diminutive in size to occupy a smaller space. They are found in bedrooms and kitchens and are sturdily built since they are often designed to be portable. They come in time only, time and strike, or may have an alarm function.
Carriage Clock
French Carriage Clock
Carriage clocks are portable and were very popular around the turn of the 20th century. French-made carriage clocks are more collectible and fetch generally higher prices although American ones can be quite desirable. Carriage clocks are designed to be portable and are time-only but some are time and strike (with a repeater function) while others may have an alarm function.
Crystal Regulator
Ansonia Crystal Regulator
Crystal Regulator clocks are identified by a brass case with 4 crystals or glass panels. Porcelain dials, Roman or Arabic numerals, ornate in design but sometimes quite garish. Most are 10-12 inches in height though some are smaller. Makers are American and French though French crystal regulators are called four-glass clocks and tend to have higher value. Distinctive by their mercury or faux mercury pendulums. Some have visible Brocot escapements and the time and strike movements are always visible.
Cuckoo Clock
Cuckoo clock
These clocks are pendulum-regulated and make an automated sound like a cuckoo when it strikes the hours. Some can be very intricate with several animated characters. Desirable ones are antiques from the Black Forest region of Germany. Modern ones are generally frustrating to repair, cheaply built, and are poor timekeepers.
Lantern Clock
Converted lantern clock
A lantern clock is a type of antique weight-driven wall clock, shaped like a lantern. They were the first type of clock widely used in private homes. They probably originated before 1500 but only became common after 1600 and in Britain, around 1620. They became obsolete in the 19th century. The one pictured above has been converted into a fusee movement.
Alarm Clock
Baby Ben alarm clock with seconds hand
Alarm clocks are wound once per day and designed to do two things, wake you and display the time. They are cheap, and are average timekeepers but have long-lasting and reliable movements.
Desk Clock
Kienzle World Time clock
These sat on fancy office desks or credenzas in office locations. They are either time-only or time-and-strike. Most were time-only to minimize distractions in the office environment. Some are very attractive and have unique designs and are more decorative than utilitarian. This one above is called a World Time Clock by Kienzle.
Wall Clock
German Mauthe Box clock
A wall clock is broadly defined as any clock designed to be hung on a wall, making it a practical and visible timekeeping solution. Wall clocks come in various styles, from simple and functional designs to highly decorative pieces. This one by Mauthe is often described as a German “box” clock which became popular after the First World War and made into the 1940s.
Schoolhouse Clock
Ansonia schoolhouse clock
They are known as schoolhouse clocks because they hung in many schoolrooms in North America. Usually distinctive by their octagon shape and short or long drop feature with a glass door displaying a swinging pendulum. Many thousands were made; they had cheap mass-produced softwood cases and robust movements. Most were time-only though some were time and strike and others even included a calendar function.
When they were marketed years ago they were not called “schoolhouse clocks” but rather, clocks made for the schoolroom.
Novelty Clock
Chairman Mao Zetong waving as the clock ticks
These clocks are designed for the tourist trade with interesting features. In the case of the above clock, a smiling Mao Zedong has his little red book in hand and is waving “to the masses” as the clock ticks.
Ogee Clock
Waterbury OG clock
It is so-called because of the curved molded wood case. It might also be referred to as an OG clock. The design originated in the United States in the 1830s, distinguished by a case (usually pine) the front outer edges of which are curved into an S-shape (Ogee). This shape is formed by the union of a convex and a concave line. A mass-produced variant of the shelf clock, the Ogee clock typically stands about 30 inches (75 cm) high and is usually weight-driven. The movements were generally made of brass (earlier ones were made of wood) and ran for 30 hours or eight days. This is a 30-hour weight-driven version from the 1870s.
Tall Case Clock
Ridgeway Hamilton Country, Westminster chime
Tall case clocks are known by various names depending on the region. They are referred to as tall-case clocks in American terminology, long-case clocks in British terminology, hall clocks in Canada, and sometimes as floor clocks. However, the most commonly used term is “grandfather clock.”
They are usually weight-driven, with the weights on chains or cables, and are distinctive by their obvious height. They are always 6 feet or over but can be as high as 8 feet high (1.8 to 2.4 meters). They often feature elaborately carved ornamentation on the hood (or bonnet), the frames, the throat, and the dial or clock face. Older ones have 30-hour movements but all modern grandfather clocks run on an 8-day cycle.
Smaller clocks are called grandmother and granddaughter clocks. They are under 6 feet.
Anniversary Clock
Kundo standard size 400-day clock
These clocks are also called torsion clocks or 400-day clocks. 400-day clocks are torsion driven having a long suspension spring to which a weight oscillates back and forth. Typically these clocks operate at 8 beats per minute and run for long cycles on a single wind, up to 400 days. These clocks were popular as wedding gifts or gifts to mark special occasions. They are relatively simple to repair but can be finicky to set up. The newer quartz clocks are very accurate but do not replace the charm and curiosity of the older mechanical ones.
Some might call them purely decorative.
Tower Clock
Tower clock in Holguin, Cuba
In the early 14th century large mechanical clocks began to appear in the towers of Italian cities. There is no record of any working models preceding these public clocks that were weight-driven and regulated by verge-and-foliot escapements. They are referred to as Turret clocks in the UK.
In conclusion, while there are sub-categories for some of the clocks described above, this overview provides a general understanding of the commonly used terms. Having this knowledge can be especially helpful when shopping for a special gift or identifying the style of clock you may have in your possession.
Mini Ogee by New Haven, the gaps in the door indicate that the front was once veneered and later stripped
This spring driven 30 hour New Haven Ogee clock is a loud ticker and rapid striker so distinctive that I can hear the ticking outside the room it is in like a mischievous puppy who wants to remind you where it is.
Judging from other New Haven clocks I have researched from this period, 1875 seems to be the approximate date of manufacture. The case measures 18 1/2 by 11 3/4 inches (47cm X 30cm) and the movement measures 3 1/2 by 5 inches (9cm X 12.7cm); a small ogee styled clock some would call a mini.
The clock is a mere reflection of its former self but not unattractive
The New Haven clock Co. has had a long and illustrious history. In 1853 the Haven Clock Company was founded in New Haven, Connecticut by Hiram Camp (1811‑1892) and other clock-makers. The company’s mission was to mass produce inexpensive brass clock movements for use in clocks. In April, 1856 The New Haven Clock Company bought out a competitor’s company, the Jerome Clock Company. They moved their production to the former Jerome factory and New Haven began making clocks under their own trademark. In 1870 some of New Haven’s clocks were marketed under the Jerome & Co. brand.
In 1885 the company stopped selling clocks other than their own New Haven brand. In 1890 the company developed serious financial problems and efforts were made to keep it solvent until 1897 at which time the company emerged after reorganization. In 1902 Walter Chauncey Camp (1859-1925) began to turn the company around. In 1923 Walter Camp stepped down as head of the company and is succeeded by Edwin P. Root.
In 1929 Richard H. Whitehead replaced Root as president of the company but New Haven again faced financial difficulties compounded by the Great Depression in November, 1929. Whitehead was able to keep the company afloat during these troubled times and the firm regained profitability. From 1943 to 1945 the company turned to the war effort, producing products almost exclusively for military use. In March of 1946 The New Haven Clock and Watch Company became the new name of the firm after it reorganized once again. It returns to what it did best before the War, making clocks and watches.
The 1946 reorganization eventually leaves the company vulnerable to foreign investors and it lost control to a consortium of Swiss watchmakers. The man who had successfully shepherded the company through the hard times of the Depression years, resigned as president. In 1956 the New Haven Clock and Watch Company filed Chapter 10 bankruptcy in a U.S. court. Its fortunes have declined precipitously since Whitehead’s departure and it never recovered. In 1960 the company went out of business and the production lines closed. The facilities were sold through a combination of public auction and private negotiation in March of 1960.
Coiled gong – a replacement from an E. N. Welch or a Gilbert.
This 30 hour New Haven Ogee looks good from a distance but closer inspection reveals a number notable issues. The movement appears original to the case and the case is in fair condition having been reconditioned at one time. Although the sides of the clock are veneered, the veneer on the front has been stripped off presumably because there was too much loss/damage. There is also some veneer loss on the top right side. Crude chisel marks on the left front indicate that the veneer in that area might have been more difficult to strip off. Unfortunate, but I have no intention of re-veneering the front. From a distance it still looks good and the casual observer will hardly know the difference.
The coil gong is a replacement and is in a slightly different location than the original gong judging from screw holes to the right. I can only surmise that the original gong somehow broke. This gong is probably from an E. N. Welch or a Gilbert.
New Haven 30 hour movement, back plate
30 hour movement – front plate showing factory installed oil cups
There are oil sinks on the front but not the back plate. The sinks on the front plate are stamped by the factory and were made to look like a more expensive clock since most would not see the rear plate. An odd decision by the manufacturer but a common practice.
Side view of 30 hour movement showing count wheel and cam wheel
The plates are pinned (rather than the newer bolts or screws) and there are two solid gear wheels suggesting that it is an earlier version of this particular 30 hour movement. The suspension spring and leader are a replacement as expected given the age of the clock. The pendulum bob is a replacement and so is the dial face.
I took the movement from its case, inspected it for wear and applied clock oil. The clock is running well and does not require immediate servicing.
The clock is a mere reflection of its former self but not unattractive.
30-hour Waterbury Ogee with a beautiful veneered case
This 30 hour Ogee clock was purchased in the fall of 2017. I was eager to add this clock to my collection as it is the one particular style of clock that I do not have. From my research on Waterbury clocks I determined that it was made in or around 1870.
I decided to turn the worn trundles inward and seal them with Permatex (medium strength thread-locker) so they are fixed rather than rolling; not ideal but reversible
While the case is in remarkable condition for the age of the clock the movement has suffered the ravages of time.
Simple 30 hour movement, top plate removed
Testing over the course of a day or so revealed that clock would not run for more than a few minutes. The movement was taken out of its case and inspected to determine what needed to be done to get it to running condition.
I expected punch marks and there were a number. In the old days clock-makers would attempt to address pivot wear by closing the pivot holes with a stake or punch. Not ideal but a common practice. Bushing work was definitely required. The pivots, on the other hand, were in very good shape and polished up nicely.
Punching the bushing home
My first task was to address the bushings. Ten bushings were installed, 5 on each plate. The front bushing work included the escape wheel bridge, always a challenging spot to bush. Next I addressed the other serious wear issue – the trundles on all of the lantern pinions.
Lantern pinions on the escape wheel
The trundles on the lantern pinions were in bad shape as you can see in the photo above. The wear seen here was identical on all 4 lantern pinions. Notched trundles were not what I expected.
The trundle work was certainly the most interesting part of the repair. My experience with lantern pinion work is zero. After some research the method I selected was to hand drill through the top shroud to release the worn trundles.
Drilling through the shroud to release worn trundles; I used a smaller bit than the one pictured here
After releasing the worn trundles I used 1.10mm pivot wire which is ideal for this purpose and matched the worn trundles precisely.
Test fitting of pivot wire before the wire is cut to proper length
I began with the fly. I drilled into the top shroud. I then cut 1.10mm pivot wire into the required lengths then rounded the ends with a cut-off disc on a Dremel. After the fly was completed I addressed two more lantern pinions in the same way. I staked the shroud ends to seal the trundles inside.
With three done the escape wheel lantern pinion was next and that is when I ran into a snag. The escape wheel shroud is reversed (see photo below), so I cannot drill into the top shroud without a lot of guess work. Using needle nose pliers I decided to turn the worn trundles inward and seal them with Permatex (medium strength thread-locker) so they are fixed rather than rolling. This is not ideal but it is reversible.
There does not appear to be a definitive answer as to whether the trundles should be free-moving or fixed although I suppose they are designed to roll with the gear teeth. At some future point the trundles on this wheel will need to be replaced.
So, how do you get at those trundles?
The clock did not come with a pendulum bob so, a new one was attached. The suspension spring and leader was replaced to address a crimped spring that resulted in a wobbling pendulum bob. I used .09mm suspension spring in the correct length. The clock now runs well and it has completed a number of 30-hour cycles.
I suspect that this will be a clock that will not be run daily, the inevitable hassle of constantly winding a 30 hour clock but I am pleased that it is back in running order and I will ensure that is runs on special occasions.
I am a retired educator living in Nova Scotia Canada. I collect vintage and antique clocks that I repair and maintain. I also write about horological areas of interest, interesting clocks and clock stories when I search for new acquisitions.
As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back
Baby Ben alarm clock with seconds hand
In the spring of 2015 I began my journey into blogging. The first few months of writing about clocks, clock collecting and repair were very challenging. How could I interest those who not only collect antique and vintage clocks but have just a passing interest? As time went by I began to realize that there was plenty to write about, that the world of clock collecting and repair is incredibly vast and that there is much to learn.
This blog has given me an opportunity to profile my own clock collection, walk the reader through the challenges of restoring and repairing my clocks and the knowledge gained from those experiences.
Cuckoo clock
As I write this article my blog has over 49,000 total views, 33% from United States, 17% from Canada and the remainder from around the world including the United Kingdom, Australia, Romania, Germany, India, The Netherlands, South Africa, Malaysia and 80 other countries. The top 5 articles this year were:
Mauthe Mantel Clock
Daniel Dakota Wall Clock
What is my clock worth?
How to wind a mechanical clock
U.M. Muller Box Clock
As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back. In the past year alone viewership has doubled. My visitors average 1.8 articles per visit with an average of 88 views on a typical day in 2017. November and December peaked at 100+ views per day.
Swiss made smoothing broaches
Providing enough stimulating content so that visitors want to return is always a challenge. I post 7 articles a month, sometimes one or two extra, usually spaced 4-5 days apart, on various topics of interest. I also attempt to appeal to all facets of clock collecting and repair from profiling my own acquisitions and experiences restoring and repairing my clocks to articles of general interest. I also inject historical horological context as much as possible.
I receive about 30+ comments per month on average. All comments and inquiries are welcomed. Interesting comments come from people who typically ask me how much their clock is worth, particular problems they have with their clock, strategies for repair and information about the history of their clock. All questions are answered to the best of my ability but I make no pretense that I am a trained professional.
Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock, circa 1870
In 2018 my intent is to continue to write interesting articles about clocks in general as well as profiling my modest but expanding collection of antique and vintage clocks. I also plan to explore special areas of interest.
Future articles include, “Letting a clock sit without running”, “Mercedes clock – not made by the car folks”, my 4th Arthur Pequegnat clock, a second installment of the Waterbury Ogee 30 hour clock, a mini New Haven Ogee that has some curious modifications, how to set up your grandfather clock, “What style clock do I have?” and more Crazy Clock Ads.
Ingraham Huron mantel clock circa 1878
Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock
Stay tuned and if there is an area of interest you would like to see me to explore, drop me a quick note. If you like what you are reading express “Like” it at the end of each article.
Thanks for your comments, your encouragement and your continued support.
My hope was that it would be a relatively straight forward exercise
This is Part 1 of servicing this 30 hour Waterbury time and strike movement. I honestly thought it would be relatively straight forward exercise. Dis-assemble, clean the parts, polish the pivots, do a little bushing work and voila! Not so.
I have worked on many clock movements but I have never seen quite the extent of wear that I found on this movement. 150 years certainly takes its toll.
Ogee clock showing replacement pendulum bob
Some time ago I profiled this Ogee clock. To reiterate, in 1839 the first prototype movement was produced for Chauncey Jerome by his brother Noble in Connecticut, USA. Jerome thought that a simple one-day clock could be produced far more cheaply than those with wooden movements at the time. Brass movements were more robust, could be transported easily and were unaffected by humidity. The simple case added to the movement was the Ogee named for its “S” shaped moldings. The success of the Ogee clock convinced other makers that there was money to be made in clock production.
This particular 30 hour time and strike Waterbury Ogee clock was produced at the height of Ogee clock production (1870s) and many thousands were sold. This is a very fine example. Absolutely nothing needs to be done to the case; it is in exceptional condition. The movement, well, that’s another story. This was not a working clock when I got it.
Waterbury clock movement
After disassembling the movement I discovered two things. One, there was evidence that it had been worked on before – as expected. There were punch and stake marks on the movement plates to close pivot holes and there was considerable wear in the lantern pinions.
Front plate has been removed
Four of the wheels have lantern pinions, with 5 trundles apiece. Trundles are the loose wires within the 2 shrouds. Dust and dirt as well as misalignment of wheel and pinion due to worn pivot holes can exacerbate the wear issue. The trundles on all 4 lantern pinions are very worn as you can see in the next two photos. I discovered why this clock does not run. When the gear teeth hits two worn trundles at precisely the right angle it locks the gear and stops the clock.
Worn trundles within lantern pinion
Another wheel with worn trundles within the lantern pinion
Professional clock-makers encounter these issues fairly regularly. Indeed, one of the most common operations in clock repair is replacing bent, broken or worn trundles. There are different methods of performing this service and the method I will employ is to drill into the shroud, extract the worn trundles, cut new ones out of pivot wire, insert them and re-knurl the shroud.
In the meantime bushing work was performed; 10 bushings were installed, 5 on the back plate and 5 on the front, including one on the escape wheel bridge. I re-assembled the movement knowing that the trundles had to be replaced, but despite new bushings the movement ran only marginally better.
Part II (Jan 2nd) details the procedure I followed to replace the trundles in the lantern pinions. Stay tuned.
Halifax (Nova Scotia, Canada) was devastated on 6 December 1917 when two ships collided in the city’s harbour.
Taken from the Dartmouth side
Results of the deadly blast
Today marks the 100th anniversary of the Halifax Explosion.
On Dec. 6, 1917, the Belgian relief ship Imo rammed into the French munitions vessel Mont-Blanc, which was carrying TNT through the narrowest part of Halifax harbour. A fire on board the French ship ignited her cargo, causing a devastating explosion. The Mont-Blancexploded at 9:04:35 a.m., sending out a shock wave in all directions, followed by a tsunami that washed violently over the Halifax and Dartmouth shores. More than 2.5 square km of Richmond were totally levelled, either by the blast, the tsunami, or the structure fires caused when buildings collapsed inward on lanterns, stoves and furnaces.
Two thousand people were killed in the Halifax Explosion and another 9,000 were injured. The explosion is the worst man-made disaster in Canadian history.
Seconds later a Junghans Crispi wall clock fell off a wall in a house on Princess court, North End Halifax. The following is the story of that clock.
I bought the remains of the clock from a gentleman in Halifax who related the story of how this clock was passed down to him through his wife’s family. It was important to him that someone who had a love and an appreciation of old clocks should continue with the restoration after he had rebuilt the frame some 30 years ago.
Thus began the six month journey of restoring the clock to its former glory. During the restoration I was able to obtain an old catalog image (supplied by a member of NAWCC) to guide me through the rebuilding process. Some of the smaller trim pieces were missing and because they are impossible to locate they had to be either purchased from a clock supply house or handcrafted.
How the clock came to me
Four Junghans clocks, the Cripi is second from the left
Junghans Crispi wall clock
It is now a wonderful tribute to that terrible tragedy on December 6, 1917.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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