spring winder

_Antique clocks are not only valuable as historical artifacts but also as complex machines that require precise repair and maintenance. To ensure their longevity and functionality, clock repairers need to have access to advanced tools that can help them diagnose and fix various issues. From ultrasonic cleaners to digital calipers, the modern clock repairer has an array of high-tech tools at their disposal that can make the restoration process more efficient and accurate.

In this article, we will explore some of the most advanced tools used in antique clock repair and how they are used to restore these valuable timepieces to their former glory.

Some of these tools may or may not break the bank depending on your financial situation or budget restrictions. Should you be prepared to invest heavily and cost is no object there are a number of options. For those of you who are budget minded, are looking for value, and are handy around wood-making tools, there are options for very little money.

For those specialized tools that will assist you in building and designing your own movements, such as a wheel/pinion cutter, the depthing tool, and advanced testing machines, please look elsewhere, this is not the place for you.

In my last article, I focused on what is needed for more advanced repairs but kept the budget at under 400 USD. This time the outlay grows a little but it can be controlled if you make careful decisions.

Beyond the basics – more advanced tools for clock repair

_{See this article for more advanced tools}

As in life, there are many ways of accomplishing the same task which means a number of options are available:

Purchase new tools
Substitute hand tools for machine tools
Make the tools
Buy on the used market
Improvise

For each category area, there are options for budget-minded and those with unlimited funds.

On a personal note, my first major tool was a spring winder. Next was a bushing machine followed by an ultrasonic cleaner and finally, a metal lathe. The purchases were made over the space of four years and working within a limited budget. Your mileage may vary.

Let’s get started.

Joe Collin’s spring winder for the budget-minded

Olie Baker spring winder

The Olie Baker spring winder is designed for hole or loop end mainsprings. It has a unique tailstock feature that safely stabilizes and secures your mainspring so it will not slip off. It also comes with nine mainspring sleeves.

It is American-made and approximately 280 USD. An extra cost Mainspring Let-down Set or a comparable tool is required to operate the Ollie Baker Winder. The KWN spring winder, which is equally capable, competes with the Olie Baker.

_{You will need a letdown for the Olie Baker spring winder}

Bushing Methods

Drill press

Bushing work can be accomplished on a drill press but a cheaper unit will have poor runout. Runout is the amount of “wobble” that is found in the drill press (the drill bit specifically) when it is rotating. A machine with a poor runout will produce a larger and more imperfect hole than the size of the drill bit used. My inexpensive Canadian Tire drill press has a visible runout and is not acceptable for bushing work. Higher-priced machines have less runout and can operate at very low speeds. A low-speed drill is optimal for bushing work.

Bushing by hand

Hand-reaming with KWM or Bergeon cutters is an art in and of itself. Hand reamers usually come as a set of 5 Reamers, 1 Chamfering Cutter, and a handle. A hand reamer set is an economical method of reaming bushing holes so that brass bushings are pushed into place once the hole is reamed out.

The Bushing machine

The KWM Bushing Tool is used with KWN bushings. Used units, which are a fraction of the cost, can only use KWN’s own bushings however, a new design makes it now possible to use all the original KWM brass brushings but also all brass and bronze bushings by Bergeon.

The Bergeon bushing machine is the second option. The Bergeon Bushing machine Includes 2 plate clamps, 10 reamers, 3 pushers, 4 drilled stakes, 1 undrilled stake, 1 centering tool, 1 chamfering cutter, 1 centering stake, and instructions and is made in Switzerland.

As far as bushing machines are concerned one is no better than the other. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. There is a legion of fans on either side.

Cutting and smoothing broaches

Cheap cutters and smoothing broaches will certainly work but it is worth spending a little money on better-quality tools.

_{Junghans front plate count wheel bushing}

Regardless of whether you subscribe to Bergeon or KWN bushings a set of bushings of various sizes is essential.

Drilling a hole with Bergeon bushing machine — _{Drilling a hole using a cutter on a Bergeon bushing machine}

Polishing pivots

Taig metal lathe

For repairing broken pivots a metal lather is essential. For polishing pivots, a lathe is very useful but not essential. The Taig metal lathe is a popular choice for hobbyists and professionals alike due to its accuracy, rigidity, and durability. With a range of attachments and accessories available, the Taig lathe is capable of tackling a variety of machining tasks with ease.

Portable drill

During the early days of clock repair, I used a portable drill to polish pivots. It is relatively cheap as one usually has a portable drill around the house. Combined with emery boards it is an effective polisher.

Clock Reference Books, how-to guides, and manuals

The essential clock repair library according to Antiquevintageclock.com

_{Go here for all the books I recommend}

It is becoming increasingly challenging to find good hard-cover clock repair books. Check out my article above for my choices for clock repair resources.

Cleaning choices

Ultrasonic cleaner

Using an ultrasonic cleaner is a highly effective way to clean small clock parts and components without causing damage or introducing harmful chemicals. The high-frequency sound waves generated by the cleaner can dislodge dirt, grime, and other contaminants from even the most hard-to-reach areas.

There are a wide variety of ultrasonic cleaners. A Chinese-made cleaner will work well (and is cost-effective) but for reliability and longevity, it is best to spend a little extra money on a quality machine.

_{Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R and Poly-Chem Deox 007 is a very effective combination}

Of course, if you prefer not to go the ultrasonic route, hand cleaning is perfectly acceptable. You will not have the shiny brand-new look that an ultrasonic cleaner will give you but in most cases the movement is hidden and aesthetics are not absolutely required.

Important extras

Comfortable chair

Using a comfortable chair for antique clock repair can help reduce fatigue and improve concentration during the restoration process. A well-designed chair can provide proper support and comfort for extended periods of work, which can be particularly beneficial for complex and time-consuming repair projects. Do not underestimate the value of a comfortable chair.

Leather gloves

Mainsprings, when they break or let go can leave ugly cuts and bruises. A good pair of leather gloves will be your best friend.

Work area

Using a dedicated work area for clock repair is essential for creating a safe, organized, and efficient workspace. Having a designated area for repair work can help prevent accidents, minimize distractions, and ensure that all tools and materials are within easy reach. It can also help maintain the integrity of the clock being worked on by minimizing the risk of damage or contamination.

I am sure I left out a few things but these are the essentials and again if your budget permits, better-quality tools will make all the difference.

In conclusion, the world of antique clock repair has come a long way in recent years with the development of advanced tools and technologies. These tools have made it possible for repairers to restore valuable timepieces with greater precision, efficiency, and accuracy.

While traditional repair methods and techniques will always have their place, the use of advanced tools has enabled repairers to tackle even the most challenging restoration projects with confidence. The use of advanced tools and techniques can help preserve these historical treasures for generations to come.

A short while ago I received a letter from one of my readers. The writer asked if I knew the size of a Junghans B11 mantel clock spring. That was it. No mention that the spring was weak or broken, just one sentence with no explanation.

My reply: “I do not have the mainspring size”.

I went on to say: “I rarely if ever replace mainsprings in a German clock or any clock for that matter, especially ones that were made over 100 years ago. I do not measure the springs unless I plan to replace them. The reason is that the steel used for the mainsprings at the time the clock was made is of higher quality than the mainsprings sold today.”

Junghans movement work — _{Junghans B11 movement} _{with top plate removed}

And then I said, “you don’t mention if the mainspring is broken or not. If you suspect it is weak, it may not the mainspring but there may be friction losses up the train preventing the clock from running its designed cycle, so, the reason for the poor performance must be found, plus the movement needs to be cleaned and bushed, if necessary.”

Junghans Corner feet finished — _{Junghans bracket clock with B11 movement}

The reply stunned me. “That’s the strangest thing I’ve ever heard come from a clock repair person. You cannot expect a 100-year-old mainspring to still have the proper power. ANY proper clock repair person would be replacing mainsprings. It’s crucial to proper service.” I replied that if the customer requests that the springs be replaced or if they are broken, they are replaced.

He replied back, “No it’s because it is needed, bud. Spring steel loses its power after so many years. Springs also become set. I have countless pictures showing this and there is irrefutable evidence of this from clock masters worldwide. Sorry but you not replacing mainsprings is doing clock repair a disservice.”

“Bud”, you say!

I refused to be drawn into a protracted argument that would resolve nothing and the correspondence ended at that point but that got my blood boiling.

My take on mainspring replacement

Way back in clock repair circles and I am talking 15 to 25 years ago it was a general rule to replace all “set” mainsprings and the cost was passed on to the customer. And what is the definition of “set”? A real “set” spring is a defective spring that can no longer power the clock. Few mainsprings actually fall into that category, in my view.

_{Demonstration of the cleaning of a mainspring}

But if we acknowledge that mainsprings can become set, a lot of good old original springs will be replaced and then in a few weeks the original problem resurfaces, and it was not the set mainspring after all.

_{Sessions mainsprings are cleaned and ready to be re-installed in an American mantel clock movement}

Some clock repair persons replace the mainsprings as a matter of course because the additional cost of a spring is nothing (or very little) compared to the cost to disassemble the movement and redo the installation if something goes wrong after servicing. If you are in the business of clock repair perhaps and that is your standard practice, there is nothing fundamentally wrong with that approach. It is insurance against a potential future problem.

_{A broken mainspring} _{that cannot be repaired}

Unless the mainspring is broken the mainspring is probably good if the clock runs for the period it is supposed to run when and only if the rest of the clock is in good order.

If there are fractures or cracks along the spring, yes replacement is prudent and necessary but if the fracture is very close to the outer end loop, it can sometimes be repaired.

Any cracking or serious rust pitting along the spring and I call it defective and replace it but surface rust is rarely anything to be concerned about.

Furthermore, the poor quality of some new springs makes the decision even more difficult today. But if a new spring is required I avoid anything from India or Asia.

When a clock fails to run a lot of people, especially beginners, assume that if everything else looks good to them that the mainspring must be “weak” or “set”, but unless the spring is actually broken or defective, it is probably fine. Mainsprings generally do what they are supposed to do and often take the blame for non-running clock movements

Mainspring servicing — _{Using an Olie Baker spring winder to servide a mainspring}

Many years ago manufacturers installed springs that were more powerful than they needed to be so that the movement could power through inevitable wear over time. If the main wheel teeth are burring out it is generally the result of a replacement mainspring that is too powerful. Re-using original springs if the spring is in good shape is the better course of action. New more powerful springs may make things worse.

I have been acquiring junk American movements and using them for spare parts and a supply of old loop mainsprings. Usually, the cost of old movements is lower than the cost of new mainsprings.

Final thoughts

I am a collector and repair my own clocks. I do not generally view mainspring replacement as necessary unless issues such as those I mentioned above raise their ugly head.

Many people write to me for advice on their clock issue and I am happy to provide what answers I can. They are kind-hearted folks looking for solutions to their antique or vintage clock problem but every now and again I get tested by somebody who thinks they know everything.

There will be as many opinions as there are clockmakers. However, I believe I echo the view of most clock repairers today regarding mainspring replacement, and perhaps dear letter writer, it is you that is doing clock repair a disservice.

Tag: spring winder